Chapter II: Appendix: 301 (2)

Going out of the great Hall, we pass thro' a very spacious Antichamber into the Hall of Audience, which is very much ornamented, as is all the rest. 'Tis there that the Electors give Audience to the foreign Ministers, and there are Eight great Compartments, shewing the different manners after which the foreign Princes give Audience to Ambassadors. There are other Pictures representing the Histories of several Judgments pass'd by Sovereigns, that have administer'd Justice in Person; and these Pictures are accompany'd with Hieroglyphics, Emblems and Devices suitable to the Subject.

The long Gallery is very magnificent, both for its Extent and for the Pieces it contains. 'Tis adorn'd with _Basso Relievo's_ of a noble Design, and with costly Pictures, among which are the Effigies and Names of 36 Princes, the Predecessors of the present Elector. There are also very fine Maps of the several Provinces, Cities and Appendages of his Electoral Highness's Dominions. There's another Gallery not quite so big indeed, but as finely adorn'd, and especially with very large Pictures, which represent the Histories of the Princes and Princesses of the Family of _Bavaria_. The Stair-case which leads to the grand Apartment I just now mention'd, is answerable to all the rest in Magnificence, there being nothing to be seen all about it but marble and Gold.

The Apartment which the Elector commonly resides in is very spacious, but irregular. I thought the Chambers and Closets a little too dark. The whole is adorn'd with rich Ceilings and magnificent Tapestries. The Electoress's Apartment communicates with the Elector's by a private Gallery. All the Princes and Princesses are equally well lodg'd, tho' the Chambers of the Apartments are a little too small.

The great Chapel is very fine, and would be much more so, if it was more lightsome. The Electoress has one, which joins to her Apartment, but is not near so large as the former, and has the same Fault; tho' otherwise 'tis a notable Piece of Building, and contains extraordinary Wealth.

The Garden of the Electoral Palace is not of the modern Taste. Round the one half of it there's a grand Piazza, adorn'd with Pictures, representing the several Histories of the Princes of the _Bavarian_ Family, which Pictures, I am told, were the Model for the Hangings in the Elector's Wardrobe. At the End of this Piazza there's a very fine House, the lower Parts of which serve as a Greenhouse for the Orange Trees. In the upper Part there are very commodious Apartments; where, in the Summertime, the Elector has a Drawing-Room. Near this Orangery there's a Sort of Menagery, in which are kept Lyons and other wild Beasts.

The same Piazza leads also to the Riding-House, which is one of the finest I ever saw. 'Tis 366 Feet in Length, and 76 in Breadth. It has 80 great Windows, and all round within there runs a fine Corridor or Gallery to hold the Spectators, when there are any Carrousels or Tournaments. This Corridor is parted by the Elector's Box, which is big enough to contain all the Electoral Family, and adorn'd with very rich Sculptures. The Gallery of the Palace, which reaches to the grand Piazza of the Garden, leads also to the Opera Room, which is very large, and very high. The Stage is answerable to the Grandeur and Magnificence of the Room, and the Decorations are superb, and very numerous. As the Electoral Prince is very fond of Music, he prefers the Opera to any other Performance, and gives Orders himself for what may serve to render it most splendid. You will judge that no Cost is spar'd, the Decorations, Machines, Habits and every Thing being equally noble, and well contriv'd.

Upon the Days that any Feast is celebrated at Court, as Birth-days and the like, when there's an Opera, at the Overture there descends from the Top of the Stage a Lustre of extraordinary Grandeur and Structure, which rises up again immediately after the first Act; a Custom, for which I never could yet hear of any good Reason. This Lustre surprizes the more, because it comes unexpected. The Ceiling opens to let it down, as well as to take it up again.

'Tis said, that when the Great _Gustavus Adolphus_, King of _Sweden_, made his victorious Entry at _Munich_, one of that great Monarch's Generals advis'd him to burn the Palace of the Electors, but he refus'd to do it, in which he was Greater than the Great _Alexander_, who reduc'd the superb Palace of _Darius_ to a Heap of Ashes. The only Thing that made the _Swedish_ Monarch uneasy was, that he could not carry to _Sweden_ the fine Chimney-piece in the great Hall, that I mention'd to you.

I will next treat of the Princes that compose the August Family of _Bavaria_, which is one of the most Illustrious in _Europe_. The Elector's Name was _Maximilian Emanuel Mary_: No Man could have a grander Air, or a better Shape than this Prince had; and with those external Qualities, he had others, without which the former are of little or no Value. He was generous, affable, compassionate, and in Consequence ador'd by his Subjects: He knew how to support his Dignity with Grandeur: His Expence was great, but well-judg'd: He marry'd to his first Wife the Archduchess, Daughter of the Emperor _Leopold_, by whom he had a Son, who was snatch'd from him by Death, when the young Prince was become Heir to one of the chief Crowns in the World, after the Death of _Charles_ II. King of _Spain_, by Right of Succession from his Grandmother, who was the Daughter of _Philip_ IV.

After the Death of the Electoress, the Elector marry'd a Princess of _Poland_, _viz. Theresa Cunegonda Sobieski_, Daughter to King _John Sobieski_. This Princess lives so retir'd, that, excepting her own Family, she sees no body but Two or Three Ladies and her Confessor. She resides most commonly at _Taco_, a Seat given her by the Elector. When the Princess is at _Munich_, she employs herself in Works of Charity, one while visiting sick Women, at other Times the several Convents; and in these Visits she never fails to leave Marks of her Bounty.

The Elector has had several Children by her: The First is the Electoral Prince, whose Name is _Albert Cajetan_: This Prince gave Proof in the War in _Hungary_, and at the Siege of _Belgrade_, that he would be the Heir of the great Qualities of the Elector his Father, as well as of his Dominions: He acquir'd a high Reputation at _Vienna_, and every body was charm'd with the grand Presence and Talents of this Prince, whose Deportment to all that came to him could not be exceeded for Civility. He talk'd _Latin_, _French_ and _Italian_ with as much Ease as his native Language.

The Duke _Ferdinand_ is the Elector's Second Son, tho' he was first marry'd to a Princess of _Neubourg_, a Niece of the Elector Palatine. This Duke is the handsomest of the Elector's Sons; he is perfectly well-shap'd, and has the finest Head of Hair that can be seen; in short, he is a very amiable Prince: He loves Pleasure, but is not a Slave to it; his favourite Sport is Hunting, which he follows commonly with the Princes his Brothers.

Duke _Clement_ is the Elector's Third Son, and he who has hitherto been Fortune's greatest Favourite. When I went to _Munich_, this Prince had been newly elected Bishop of _Munster_ and _Paderborn_, in the Room of the Duke his Brother, who dy'd at _Rome_ a little after his Election to the Bishoprick. Duke _Clement_ was already Bishop of _Ratisbon_, when he was chose Bishop of _Munster_ and _Paderborn_; but he resign'd _Ratisbon_ to Duke _Theodore_, the last of the _Bavarian_ Princes. These Four Princes, and a Princess, who turn'd Nun at the Time that I was at _Munich_, are the Elector's whole Family, and the only Princes of the House of _Bavaria_.

You know, _Madame_, that the Electoral Dignity pass'd to this Family after the Disgrace of _Frederic_ Elector Palatine, King of _Bohemia_, who having been put under the Ban of the Empire, was turn'd out of the _Upper Palatinate_, which was given to the _Bavarian_ Family, as a Reward for the Attachment they had shewn to the House of _Austria_, and for the Expences they were at in the War. At the Treaty of _Westphalia_ this Grant was confirm'd to the _Bavarian_ Family, and the Son of the unfortunate _Frederic_ recover'd his Dignity of Elector, with this Difference, that whereas before he was the first Elector, he was now become the last. The Dukes of _Bavaria_ remain'd in Possession of the _Upper Palatinate_, and of the Dignity of first Elector. There's none of 'em all that came up to the Elector _Maximilian Emanuel_, and never was the Court of _Munich_ so splendid and numerous, as in his Time: The Ceremonial observ'd there is very much the same with that of the Imperial Court.

As to the Amusements of the Court of _Bavaria_, they pass'd their Time much after this manner: The Elector, who was an early Riser, went to Mass about 10 o'Clock, and afterwards held a Council, if it happen'd to be Council-Day, or otherwise his Electoral Highness play'd at Passage till Dinner-time. Then he return'd to his own Apartment, where he din'd privately, and during that Time, no body was admitted, except the Princes, the Officers in Waiting, and the Chamberlains. The Princes also din'd by themselves, tho' they often admitted Gentlemen to eat with them. The Electoress, the Princess and the Duchess had also their separate Tables serv'd by the Elector's Officers, which occasion'd an amazing Expence, as did also the Hunting Equipages; for the Elector went one Way, the Electoral Prince another, and Duke _Ferdinand_ another, so that there were near 400 Horses running here and there every Day. When they return'd from the Chace, the Princes went and pass'd the Evening with the Duchess, where they found a great Assembly of Ladies; the Elector also went thither sometimes, and play'd at Pharao, or some other Game. Towards Supper-time he retired to his Apartment, where he supp'd with the Ladies. The Princes went and supp'd with the Electoral Prince, and the Duchess supp'd at her own House with the Gentlemen and Ladies.

On the Drawing-Room Days (which were Three Times a Week) Things were order'd otherwise. The Ladies went to the Electoress's Apartment, or to the Orangery, according to the Place where the Drawing-Room was appointed. When it was kept at the Electoress's Apartment, the Ladies went thither in the Court Dress, whereas at the Orangery they might appear in a Mantua. The Elector and the Princes were also there: His Electoral Highness convers'd awhile with the Ladies; after which they sat down to Play, and every one chose what Game or Partner they lik'd best. When the Play was over, the Company went into another Room, where there was a great Table well serv'd, at which, after the Elector, the Princes and the Ladies had taken their Places, if there was Room, they admitted Gentlemen to sit down with them, either Foreigners, or even such as were in the Elector's Service. At this Table no Rank was observ'd, and the very Princes sat down where they could get Places.

When the Court was at _Nymphenbourg_, the Elector's Pleasure-house, the Diversions were much the same as at the Orangery, except that they took the Air more; and that the Ladies might enjoy this Pleasure to greater Perfection, there was always a Number of Calashes, each drawn by a Pair of Horses, which carry'd Two Ladies, and was drove by some Gentleman, while One or Two others stood behind them. Those who prefer'd taking the Air by Water, might easily be accommodated, there being for that Purpose upon the Canal Gondolas and Gondoliers after the _Venetian_ manner, which were always ready for Hire.

On _Sundays_, Holidays and Days of Rejoicing, the Elector din'd in public, with the Princes and Princesses of his Family, during which the Chamberlains waited, and at Night there was a Concert. The Ladies in their Court Dress met in the Apartment of the Electoress or the Duchess, and accompany'd those Princesses to the Opera, after which they return'd to the same Apartment; where, till Supper-time, they play'd; upon those Days the Ladies din'd with the Elector: Sometimes too, they carry'd Services for Three or Four Persons, and laid them upon the Gaming Tables, which was very convenient for those who were not willing to separate Company: After Supper there was commonly a Ball.

During the Summer, the Elector never fail'd to repair every _Thursday_ Evening to the Orangery, to hold a Drawing-Room, after which he went and lay at _Nymphenbourg_, from whence he return'd upon _Saturdays_, to hold Councils on _Sundays_ in the Morning; and in the Afternoon he went to some Pleasure-house.

This, which was the common Life at Court, was very often diversify'd, by Parties for Hunting, Fishing, or other Pleasures. The Elector himself gave Direction for all the Feasts he made, and I believe it would have been difficult to have found any body that understood the Matter so well; every Thing being conducted with such charming Delicacy and Regularity, that I own to you, _Madame_, I thought myself in some enchanted Island. What contributed to render the Court of _Munich_ yet more splendid, was, the Presence of the Count _de Charolois_, a Prince of the Blood of _France_, who made some Stay here at his Return from the War in _Hungary_[6]. That young Prince being spurr'd on by Glory, thought he could not better signalize his Valour, than by bearing Arms against the Infidels, with whom the Emperor had just declared War; but as he plainly foresaw, it would be difficult for him to obtain Leave from his Mother and the Regent to go out of the Kingdom, he resolv'd to get away without speaking a Word of it to any body but Two Persons that he carry'd along with him. The Day that he put this Project in Execution, he set out early in the Morning, on Pretence of going a Hunting. He travell'd Seven Post Stages without Baiting, with the Horses of the Duke his Brother, and he was got as far as the _Austrian Netherlands_, when they thought at _Chantilly_ he was but in the Forest. He went to _Liege_, and from thence to _Bon_, but always with an Equipage that did not denote his Quality. From _Bon_ he proceeded thro' _Munich_ to _Vienna_; from whence without visiting either the Emperor or Empress he repair'd to _Belgrade_, which was then besieg'd by Prince _Eugene_ of _Savoy_. He distinguish'd himself greatly in this Campaign, and gave Demonstration that he was worthy of his Illustrious Blood. After the Reduction of _Belgrade_, he went to _Vienna_, where he stay'd some time, and then travell'd to _Italy_, from whence he return'd to _Munich_. The Elector, who had been perfectly well receiv'd by the Duchess, who was the young Count's Mother, took a Pleasure to shew his Gratitude to the Prince her Son. He therefore lodg'd him at the Castle, and defray'd his and his Attendants Charges all the Time that he stay'd at _Munich_; he provided a Table for him in his Apartment for Twelve People; and when he din'd with the Elector, which he never did but with Ladies in Company; and when they were to go out a Hunting, his Gentlemen had a Table allow'd them, which was spread for Eight; but some Difficulties in the Point of Rank prevented the Count from dining in public with the Elector and the Princes. His Electoral Highness gave him a certain Number of Officers, Pages and Footmen to wait on him, and Care was taken to chuse such only to attend him as talk'd _French_; but he soon acquainted himself with the _German_ Language to such a Degree, that the Country-People understood him better than they did me. Of this I had Experience one Day as I went a Hunting with him, when he bad me ask something of a Peasant, who I saw by his Looks did not know what I meant; but the Count accosted him with the same Demand, and the Peasant understood him immediately, by reason of the _Bavarian_ Accent, in which that Prince express'd himself happily: He return'd to _Chantilly_ the 1st of _May_ 1720.

Three Quarters of a League from _Munich_ is the stately Palace of NYMPHENBOURG[7], to which I have had the Honour to acquaint you the Court repaired very often. 'Tis impossible for a Place to be more charming; the Gardens especially are very beautiful: A grand Avenue leads to _Nymphenbourg_, which runs from _Munich_ to the Iron Gates of the Palace. In the Front of this Palace, next to the Court, there are Three Pavilions, which are connected by Two Apartments for Lodgings. The middlemost Pavilion, which is larger than the other Two, is square, and contains a great Hall, finely adorn'd with Architecture, and an Apartment on each Side. The Two Side Pavilions are terminated by Two large Pavilions, that run further out, and form Two Wings. On the Side next to the Court there are Steps, by which there is an Ascent up to the Hall; and on the opposite Side there are others, which lead down to the Garden. From the Steps on the Court-side is a Prospect of a large Canal, lin'd on each Side with a Row of Elms, which is separated from the Court by a Grate.

As to the Apartments, they are all of the utmost Magnificence, but the only one that I shall speak of now is the Elector's. The first Room at the Entrance is very fine, considering its Extent, but not much adorn'd, being altogether bare white Walls, so that only the Ceiling is painted. As one turns to the Right, we enter an Antichamber, which is a Thorowfare both to the Elector's Apartment, and to another on the Left Hand, then occupied by the Count _de Charolois_. This Antichamber is wainscotted throughout, and leads to a Gallery, which is also completely wainscotted, the Pannels being painted white with gilt Fillets. There we saw in Compartments very fine Pictures, which represent either Hunting, or the Prospects of the Elector's several Houses. From this Gallery is an Entrance into a large Antichamber, all over wainscotted, and adorn'd with Chimney and Pier-Glasses and magnificent Pictures. From thence, turning to the Left, we enter into a large Closet, the Furniture of which is a fine Sky-blue Damask, lac'd with Gold. The Ceilings, Doors and Window-Shutters are painted white, with gilt _Basso Relievo's_. In this Closet as well as in the Chamber next to it, are a great many very fine Pier-Glasses and Marble Tables: The latter is the Bedchamber; the Furniture and Bed are of blue Damask, as is also the Closet: Out of this Chamber there's a Passage to a second Closet, furnish'd in the same Taste. These Three Pieces follow one another, and look into the Garden: The last mention'd Closet terminates the Elector's Apartment, which communicates by little Offices and a Stair-case to a small Apartment which his Electoral Highness lives in, the great Apartment being only for keeping his Court. On the other Side of the Palace are the Apartments of the Electoress and the Princes, who are all lodg'd there very commodiously.

The Gardens of this Palace are very well laid out: As one enters them by the Steps from the Castle, the first Thing one sees is a very fine _Parterre_, which reaches to a Wood, that is cut into Three great Walks, in Form of a Goose-Foot; in the midst whereof are Three Canals of Spring Water, the middlemost of which runs out of Sight, and has its Issue by Three Waterfalls, in Form of a Cascade. The Wood consists of Groves, adorn'd with Bowers, and noble Water-Works. On the Right Hand of the Garden is a Grove, which contains a Mall; and a little further is a very great Mall, in Form of a Horse-shoe. The Two Ends run to the grand Walk, and contain between them a Pavilion, built in Form of a Cross arch'd, consisting of Two Stories, and forming an Octogon Saloon in the middle with Four Windows, between which are Four Summer Houses, one of which is an Antichamber, the second a Bedchamber, the third a Closet, and the fourth a Stair-case. This House is built in the Form of a Pagod's Temple, and all the Furniture is _Indian_, which is the Reason that 'tis call'd _Pagodenbourg_. Over-against this pretty House, on the Left of the great Canal, are Bagnio's. Nothing in the World can be better contriv'd, and more charming: All the Ceilings, the _Basso Relievo's_ and other Ornaments have some Relation or other to the Use for which this House is appropriated. The Baths are of Marble, adorn'd with Statues and Vessels of very great Price.

Tho' the Elector seem'd to be mightily delighted with _Nymphenbourg_, yet he was about building another Palace, which was to be call'd _Schleisheim_: According to the Designs that I saw of it, this Palace must be much larger and more noble than _Nymphenbourg_, so that they said, that _Schleisheim_ would be the _Versailles_ of _Bavaria_, and _Nymphenbourg_ the _Marly_.

I spent my Time so agreeably while I stay'd at _Munich_, that indeed I was very loth to quit a Place so charming: Nevertheless, I set out with a Heart full of Gratitude for all the Favours I had receiv'd from the Elector, and the Princes his Children.

* * * * *

I lay the first Night at _Wasserbourg_[8], and from thence went to PASSAU, which makes a Part of _Lower Bavaria_, and is a Bishoprick Suffragan of _Saltzbourg_.[9]_Passau_ is famous for the Treaty which was concluded there between the Emperor _Charles_ and _Mauric_ Elector of _Saxony_, whereby the Protestant Religion was establish'd and secur'd in _Germany_, where before it was only tolerated. This is a very pretty City, has fine Houses, and several Churches. The Cathedral, which is a quite new Structure, is very large, and in the Inside very magnificent, being adorn'd all over with Pilasters, and other Embellishments of Architecture, and the Roof painted in _Fresco_. I was at Divine Service there on _Whitsunday_, and as every body then made the best Appearance they could, I observ'd the meanest Women of the Town were dress'd in Gowns of black Velvet, and scarlet Petticoats with Gold Lace, and that some of 'em had Pearl Necklaces of Five or Six Rows; and others Gold Chains with Rings, and Ear Pendants of Diamonds.

* * * * *

From _Passau_ I went down the _Danube_ to _Lintz_, the Capital of _Upper Austria_; and from thence to VIENNA[10], the Capital of _Austria_, and the ordinary Residence of the Emperors, ever since _Maximilian_. This City, which was heretofore but a Bishoprick, was lately erected into an Archbishoprick, and the Archbishop takes the Title of Prince. The Cathedral Church, which is dedicated to St. _Stephen_, is an old Building, very magnificent, but dark: The City stands upon the _Danube_, an Arm of which separates it from the Suburb, which is call'd _Leopoldstat_: The _Turks_ have made more than one vain Attempt to be Masters of _Vienna_. _Soliman_ II. besieg'd it _Sept._ 25, 1529, but on the 14th of _October_ following _Charles_ V. oblig'd him to raise the Siege. In 1693 the _Turks_ made another Attempt, and besieg'd it with an Army of above 200,000 Men, when the Emperor _Leopold_ retir'd with all his Family to the Castle of _Lintz_, and left the Command of the City to the Count _de Staremberg_: The Count was forc'd to sustain terrible Attacks from the _Turks_, who push'd on their Works with Vigor, and the Place could hold out no longer, when _John Sobieski_ King of _Poland_ advanced to relieve it, at the Head of an Army of _Poles_. He came in Sight of the Enemy on the 11th of _September_, and next Day gave them Battle, and obtain'd a complete Victory; for the _Turks_ abandon'd both their Camp and their Artillery, and the Conquerors took a prodigious Booty, particularly such a vast Number of black Cattle, that 'tis said they were sold for Five or Six Florins apiece. The Emperor no sooner receiv'd the Tidings that the Siege was rais'd, but he set out from _Lintz_ for _Vienna_, where he visited the King of _Poland_ in the open Field, and made his grateful Acknowledgments to him for the signal Service he had then done him.

_Vienna_ receiv'd a great deal of Damage at this Siege; Part of the Imperial Palace being reduc'd to Ashes, as well as several other grand Structures. The Emperor immediately set about repairing those Losses, and the Palace was rebuilt as it was before; and several of the Nobility also caus'd such magnificent Palaces to be erected, that in a short time the Town recover'd its former Splendor.

The Imperial Palace is large, but has nothing else scarce to boast of, for the Apartments are low, dark, and without Ornaments, and the Furniture is very ancient, tho' scarce any Princes have a finer Treasure in Tapistry; and why 'tis not us'd, I can't imagine: The Apartments of the Empress Dowager were the only ones fit to lodge in; for that Princess took Care to have them not only rais'd higher, but inlaid and wainscotted, which has given them a certain Air of Majesty they had not before. This Princess's Apartment is hung with black Velvet, it being the Custom of the Imperial Court, for the Empress Dowagers never to quit their Mourning. The Bedchamber and the Closet call'd _la Retirade_ or the Withdrawing-Room, are the only Two Pieces that are not hung with black, the whole Furniture thereof being grey. For the rest, were a Stranger to see the Palace of _Vienna_, and to have no Notion of what it is before-hand, he would scarce imagine it to be the Residence of the first Prince of _Europe_.

The Palace of _la Favorita_ in the Suburb of _Vienna_, where the Emperor spends the Summer, is even inferior to that in the City. 'Tis a very large House, built upon the Highway, without any Court before it, without Symmetry or Architecture, and which, as to the Outside, looks more like a Convent, than a Royal Palace. The Inside perfectly answers the Outside. There's an Ascent to the Apartments by a great Stair-case, all of Timber, that leads to a Guard Chamber, which is a Room of no great Extent, and without any manner of Ornament; and from thence there's an Entrance into other Apartments but half furnish'd, and very low, which in short is the Fault of all the Apartments. The Gardens of the Palace are as inconsiderable as the Building; they being full of large Fruit-trees, but in very bad Order, and I saw nothing there that can be call'd a fine Prospect.

Mean time the Court Nobility are far from being so ill lodg'd as the Emperor, for they have all stately Houses, both in the City and Suburbs. Prince _Eugene_ of _Savoy_'s Palace is the most magnificent Building that one shall see; for whether you examine the Outside or the Inside of it, the whole is of the best Contrivance, and the utmost Magnificence. The first Hall, which forms the first Piece of the grand Apartment, is all wainscotted, and adorn'd with large Pictures, representing the chief Battles won by Prince _Eugene_. From this Hall we enter into a large Antichamber, where we see a Suit of Tapistry Hangings, made by the famous _Devos_ of _Brussels_, where that skilful Artist has represented the principal Transactions of the War to as great Perfection as possible: Out of this Antichamber we go into the Bedchamber; I never saw any thing so rich as the Furniture is there; the Tapistry is roll'd up in Pilasters of green Velvet, embroider'd with Gold, with Figures in Needle Work so finely drawn, that they seem to be Miniatures. This Piece is intirely furnish'd in all that Taste: The Closet next to the Bedchamber is all over gilt; and every thing in general in this Apartment is superb; the Paintings, Looking-Glasses, Marble Tables, the very Arms and Andirons being of most curious Workmanship: I ought not to omit the many fine Lustres, of which that in the Bedchamber is the most magnificent; and I have been told, that it cost 40,000 Florins: As to the Ceiling and other Pieces of Masonry, they are indeed very fine, but not so elegant as noble.

After having taken a full View of the Prince's Apartments, I was shew'd the Library, which is in as good a Condition as any in _Europe_. The Books are rang'd in delightful Order, and the pompous Bindings form the finest Scene that can be. Hither the Prince comes every now-and-then to unbend himself from the Fatigues of his great Employments.

The Prince has a magnificent Garden in the Suburb of _Vienna_, which has a Court before it, that is separated from the Street by an Iron Grate of very curious Workmanship. In this Court is a very large Piece of Water, with a Row of Chestnut-Trees on each Side, that leads to the House, or rather the Castle, for 'tis a great and stately Building: They were still at Work upon it when I saw it. This House fronts the Garden, and takes up almost the whole Breadth of it. The Garden is shelving, for which Reason it was thought proper to place a very fine Cascade in the middle of it. There's a very neat Structure at the End of it, which, like the House, takes in the whole Breadth of it. Below Stairs is a great Saloon, all lin'd with Marble of several Colours, and a Ceiling adorn'd with fine Paintings: From this Saloon there's a Passage to a Room on the Left, the Ceiling and Wainscot of which are very fine; and then we enter into a large Closet, and next to that is a Bedchamber, with a Gallery and another large Closet at the End of that; so much for what is on the Left of the Saloon. On the Right Hand is another large Apartment, and the Chapel. The Backside of the Building looks into a great Court, where are the Stables and Coach-houses: 'Tis pity that this Prince, after he had been at so much Expence in this Building, did not buy the Ground where the Empress has since built a Convent. The Prince was advis'd to it at that very Time, but he refus'd, and said, he would not purchase the whole Suburb; to be sure he repents it by this time; for the Convent, which the Empress has caus'd to be erected there, is a great Inconvenience to that Prince, who cannot stir one Step at Home, without being overlook'd by the Nuns.

On the other Side of the City is another Suburb, which is very considerable, and the Walks there are very fine. The _Prat_, for Instance, is a Place mightily frequented; 'tis a Wood in an Island, form'd by the _Danube_, where there is such a surprizing Concourse of People in fine Weather, that it may well enough be call'd, _The_ Boulogne _Grove of_ Vienna. As one returns out of this Walk we come to another, call'd _The Emperor's Garden_: Here was formerly a beautiful Palace, but the _Turks_ having burnt it the last time they besieg'd _Vienna_, there is nothing of it to be seen now but the Ruins: The Garden is a large Spot of Ground, and, with a little Expence, might be made very fine, but no body seems to think about it, which I have been told is owing to the surprizing Swarms of Insects the _Danube_ brings hither at certain Times of the Year, so that People who come hither to walk, are forc'd to desert it: When they can come without this Annoyance, the Gentry usually repair hither in the Evening; adjoining to this Garden is a very fine Wood, in which are cut out noble Walks: This, _Madame_, is all that is most remarkable in _Vienna_ and its Suburbs, as to the Buildings; I will next endeavour to give you an Idea of this Court.

The Court of _Vienna_ is, in my Opinion, the plainest, and at the same time the most magnificent in _Europe_: To explain this seeming Paradox, I must acquaint you, that, as to the external Appearance of the Emperor's Houshold, nothing is so plain, nor indeed so dismal: His Liveries are of black Cloth, with a Lace of yellow and white Silk: The Cloathing of his Guards is much the same; and besides, they are not many in Number. The Palace, as I have had the Honour to tell you, is very inconsiderable; yet taking the Court all together, and considering the Number of Great and Petty Officers, the many rich Noblemen that spend high, and the several Princes that are in the Service of his Imperial Majesty, it must be confess'd, that there is not a Court in _Europe_ so splendid as that of _Vienna_. At the Time that I was there, the Emperor had in his Service Two Brothers of a King, Two Princes of Royal Blood, and a great Number of Princes of Sovereign or other Honourable Families: Nor is there a Court where there is a more sudden Transition from the meanest to the most stately external Appearance, and this they commonly run to such an Extreme, that they absolutely renounce Elegancy, to incumber themselves with Magnificence: For on solemn Days, as those of Births, Marriages, _&c._ one sees nothing but Gold, Lace and Diamonds without Number: And as soon as these Holidays, which are call'd _Gala_, are expir'd, they all resume their former Plainness.

After having given you this general Idea of the Court of _Vienna_, I will acquaint you how they commonly spend their Time: First of all, as soon as the Emperor is risen, he is dress'd; then he reads some Dispatches, and sometimes gives Audience to some Minister, or assists in Council. He afterwards goes to Mass, either at his own Chapel, or to some Church, according to the Festival. On the Days of Ceremony or Festival he is accompany'd by the Nuncio and the Ambassadors, upon which Occasion the Emperor rides thither with very great Pomp. The Grooms of the Imperial Stables on Horseback begin the Cavalcade, then comes an Equerry, and a Coach drawn by Six Horses, in which sits the Master of the Horse: He is follow'd by the Chamberlains, the Knights of the Golden Fleece, and the Ministers, all on Horseback, in black Cloaths, and Cloaks trimm'd with Lace. After these come the Footmen and Heydukes, in an antic Dress, and bare-headed. Their Imperial Majesties Coach comes next, between Two Files of the Hundred _Swiss_: The Emperor rides always with his Face to the Horses, and the Empress over-against him, unless the Emperor goes into the Country, and then the Empress sits by his Side. The Pages and some of the inferior Officers of the Chamber follow on Horseback, and then Three or Four Coaches, with Six Horses, in which are the Empress's Ladies: The Cavalcade is clos'd by a Company of the Garison at _Vienna_, which is maintain'd at the Charge of the City, and mounts Guard at the Emperor's Palace, his Imperial Majesty having no other Foot Guards.

After Mass is ended, the Emperor returns to his Apartment, preceded by all his Court, as when he came. The Nuncio and the Ambassadors are covered, as is also the Emperor; then come the Empress and the Archduchesses, each led by the Steward of their Houshold.

When the Emperor is return'd to his Apartment, he retires to a Chamber call'd _la Retirade_, or the Withdrawing-Room, where he stays till Dinner-time, which, when 'tis serv'd up, the great Chamberlain goes and acquaints the Emperor, who comes and sits down at Table with the Empress, attended by all the Ladies. A Chamberlain or Treasurer of the Chambers presents the Bason for their Majesties to wash in, who afterwards seat themselves in Two-arm Chairs: The Table did not appear to me to be serv'd with very great Delicacy. The Plate is old-fashion'd, and all the Dishes were set without any Regularity. Their Imperial Majesties have particular Plates to themselves, for which Reason small Plates are commonly made use of; and I have seen no less than Five or Six Spoons upon the Table at a Time: The Emperor covers himself as soon as he is seated; then the Nuncio and Ambassadors likewise cover themselves, and keep their Standing round the Table, till their Majesties have drank; their Liquor is presented to them by a Chamberlain; after their Majesties have drank to one another's Healths, the Steward, the great Chamberlain, the Master of the Horse and the Captain of the Guards step forward to receive the Emperor's Orders, and to know how his Majesty will dispose of himself in the Afternoon. The Ladies of Honour and the Officers belonging to the Empress advance to that Princess in like manner, to know her Pleasure, and then every body retires, unless there is Music, which happens very often: The Dinner does not last much above an Hour: Their Majesties stay at Table till every thing is taken away, even so much as the Cloth, but then a fresh one is laid on, upon which the Treasurer places a Bason and an Ewer of Silver gilt, and presents them to their Majesties to wash. The great Chamberlain presents the Napkin to the Emperor, as the Lady of Honour does to the Empress: This done, their Majesties retire to their Withdrawing-Rooms, tho' they often go out a Hunting, or to shoot at a Mark.

When the Emperor shoots at a Mark, several Persons are enter'd down in a List to shoot with him, and there are Prizes distributed by those who are of the Society of Shooters, of whom the Emperor gives the first Prize, the Empress the second, and then all the rest, according to the Seniority of their Admission into the Society. At their Return from this Diversion, the Emperor grants Audience to those that send to desire it by the great Chamberlain, who takes Care to let them know the Time when his Majesty is to be spoke with. These Audiences are given without Ceremony, and they that receive them are introduc'd by the Chamberlain in waiting. The Emperor stands up and is cover'd, leaning with his Back against a Table, with a Canopy over him, and an Arm-Chair by his Side: The Person that approaches for Audience bends the Knee Three times, first as he comes in, next when he is in the middle of the Room, and the third time when he begins to speak. The Emperor hearkens with Attention, gives a gracious Answer, and if there be any thing obscure in what is deliver'd to him, he desires an Explanation. When the Person has made an End of speaking, he bends one Knee to the Ground, and stretches forth his Hand, as a Signal that he desires to kiss that of the Emperor, which his Majesty never refuses. Then the Person retires, going backwards, and making the Three Obeisances that he made at Entrance. The same Ceremonies are observ'd in the Audiences of the Empresses; in order to obtain one from the Empress Regent, Application is made to the great Steward of her Household, who desires it, and then notifies what Hour will be most convenient for the Empress to grant it. At these Audiences there attends but one Lady of Honour, who keeps her proper Distance far enough to be out of the Hearing of what is said, while her Majesty's great Steward stays at the Door in the Antichamber.

A shocking Abuse is crept into the Court of _Vienna_, in the Article of Audiences: The next Day after they have been had, the Domestics of the great Chamberlain and the great Steward come to demand a Fee for the Service done by their Masters in giving the Notice to their Majesties; and I have known some so impertinent, as to fix the Sum they claim'd a Right to. The Hundred _Swiss_ and the very Ushers come likewise to wish happy Success to the Audience that has been obtain'd, merely for what they can get.

As soon as the Audiences are over, the Empress goes into a Room call'd, _The Looking-Glass Room_, because 'tis the only one in her Apartment where there are such Glasses: There her Majesty finds the Ladies, who kiss her Hand one after the Other, after which the Empress sits down to Play; none but the Ladies have the Honour to play with her, or have Permission to enter into that Room, excepting indeed the Emperor, the great Chamberlain, the great Steward, and the Princes who are related to the Empress. While they are at Play, the Ladies are seated round the Table, without observing any Precedence; nor is it even as 'tis in _France_, where the Honour of the Tabouret or Stool to sit on is paid only to the Duchesses; for at _Vienna_ those who are call'd Duchesses by way of Railery, are treated as if they were such in Reality.

There's another Custom at _Vienna_, very different from the Practice at other Courts of _Europe_: Here are no Days fix'd for Drawing-Rooms or Circles, so that the Ladies, when they think proper, send to the Lady of Honour in waiting, to know of her at what time they may pay their Court to the Empress; and then they repair to the Palace at the Time appointed.

Towards Supper-time the Emperor goes to see the Empress; when the Company gives over Play, and the Empress rises, and admits those Ladies that are not to stay at Supper to kiss her Hand; after which their Majesties seat themselves at Table, which is serv'd much after the same manner as at Dinner: Their Majesties always sup in the Empress's Apartment, where Two Wax Candles are plac'd upon the Table, which are chang'd Three or Four Times by one of the Maids of Honour: When she takes off a Candle, to give it to the Treasurer to snuff it, she makes a profound Curt'sy, and makes another when she replaces it on the Table. On the _Gala_ or Festival Days, there is Music during the Repast. After the Bason has been presented to their Majesties to wash their Hands in, the Governess or Mother of the Maids presents the Napkin to the Emperor; and a Maid of Honour, who is at the same time Lady of the Golden Key, presents it to the Empress. When the Archduchesses sup with their Majesties, the same Bason is presented to them that the Emperor has wash'd in, and a Maid of Honour presents them with the Napkin; and when the Emperor is risen from the Table, the Two first Archduchesses give the Emperor his Hat, and the Empress her Fan and Gloves; but, in the Absence of the Archduchesses, this is done by a Lady of Honour and a Maid of Honour, who must also be a Lady of the Golden Key: After this, the Ladies who waited at Supper kiss the Empress's Hand, as her Majesty goes out of the Room, into the Chamber of Looking-Glasses. As soon as their Majesties are in this Chamber every body retires, to go to the Assembly, which, when I was at _Vienna_, was held at the House of _Madame de Rabutin_, whither came all the _Beau Monde_. Prince _Eugene_ of _Savoy_ was there too every Night, where he play'd constantly at Picquet with the Countess _de Badiani_ and some other Ladies. About 11 o'Clock the Company retir'd to the Places where they had appointed to sup, tho' Supper is a Meal they seldom indulge themselves with, all the grand Entertainments being made at Dinners, and those extremely late.

The Empresses Dowagers are serv'd at Table with the same Ceremonies as the Empress Regent, and they commonly eat alone, with only the Archduchesses their Daughters. The Empress Mother always ate in private, but on _Sundays_ and Days of Festival or _Gala_, the Empress Dowager din'd in public.

I had the Honour to acquaint you before, when I was mentioning the Empresses Dowagers, that they never quit their Mourning; but this must be only understood of their Persons, for their Officers and other Domestics are clad in Colours: Yet, as to their Maids of Honour, let the Day of _Gala_ be never so grand, the Bodies of their Gowns must be a black Ground, embroider'd with Gold and Silver, but their Petticoats may be of what Colour they please. Those Princesses are never at any Play or Ball: As for the Archduchesses, it being the Custom at _Vienna_ for Sisters to dress alike, they must be dress'd all in their Hair upon the Days of Ceremony and _Gala_, as well as their Maids of Honour: They generally wear the Court Dresses; but on the Days of grand Ceremony they wear Robes, much like Children's Vests, and very wide Petticoats with great Trains.

Upon the Days of _Gala_ there are commonly Operas and Comedies: Their Imperial Majesties sit in the Pit, the Emperor in the chief Place, and the Empress on his Left, and the Archduchesses are in the same Row. All those of the Imperial Family have Arm-Chairs of the same Size and Height, with a Stand behind, upon which is a Wax Candle. Their Operas are magnificent, as to the Decorations and Habits, and good Judges have assur'd me, that their Music is excellent; but for my own Part I think them as sad as most of the _Italian_ Operas, because neither of 'em are accompany'd with Dances, or any agreeable Entertainment.

I think, _Madame_, that I have related within a Trifle every Thing that is remarkable at _Vienna_, whether at Court or in the City: I shall now give you a short Account of the Persons who compos'd that august Court at the Time that I stay'd there.

_Charles_ VI. was then upon the Imperial Throne, who is the second Son of the Emperor _Leopold_: After the Death of _Charles_ II. King of _Spain_, he was own'd King of that Monarchy by all the Princes of the Grand Alliance, and he then took the Name of _Charles_ III. He went to his Kingdom, and shew'd the _Spanish_ Nation, that he was worthy of being their Sovereign. The Death of the Emperor _Joseph_, his Eldest Brother, oblig'd him to return to _Germany_, and when he was at _Genoa_ he heard, that he was chose Emperor. I have already had the Honour to give you an Account of his Coronation. The Reign of this Monarch has been signaliz'd by happy Events; the famous Peace concluded with _France_, restor'd that Tranquillity to the Empire which it had been for a long time depriv'd of, and that which was concluded some Years after with the _Turks_, secur'd the Happiness of _Hungary_, and all the hereditary Dominions.

The Name of the Empress is _Elizabeth Christina_ of _Wolfembuttle Blanckenberg_: She is a Princess, who, besides all the Qualities of the Mind, has the most advantagious Aspect: She is the finest Personage at her Court, and 'tis easy to see by her majestic Carriage, that she was form'd by Nature to wear one of the chief Crowns in the World: She is very magnificent in her Apparel, and especially in Diamonds, of which she has to the Value of several Millions, and the Number is daily increasing by considerable Presents she receives from the Emperor. This Prince does Justice to the Merit of his august Spouse, who on her Part makes it her whole Care to give him Proofs of her Affection; 'tis impossible to find a more perfect Unity than that which is between their Imperial Majesties: There are Three Princesses by this Marriage; I had the Honour to see only the Two Eldest, for the Third was born some Years after my Journey to _Vienna_.

She that is first in Rank, next to the Empress and the Archduchesses her Daughters, was the Empress, Dowager of the Emperor _Leopold_, _Eleonora Magdalena Theresa_ of _Newbourg_: She was the Mirrour of the whole Court for Piety; for she spent most of her Time in Prayers at the Altars, or else in bestowing Charities, which were always very great. The Greatness of her Birth seem'd to make her uneasy, and she was vex'd to see the Honours which her Rank and Merit had entail'd upon her; she dy'd in a very advanc'd Age: She had several Princes and Princesses by the Emperor _Leopold_, as 1. _Joseph-Jacob_, who dy'd Emperor at _Vienna_, the 17th of _April_ 1711. 2. _Charles_, the present Emperor, and Three Archduchesses; the one marry'd to the King of _Portugal_; another, Governess of the _Netherlands_; and the Third, who resides at the Court of _Vienna_.

The Empress Dowager of the Emperor _Joseph_ resides also at the Court of _Vienna_, and her Name is _Wilhelmina-Amelia_: She is the Daughter of the late Duke of _Hanover_, Uncle to the King of _England_. After the Death of her Father, who left no Male Issue, this Princess went and stay'd some time in _France_, and her Sister having marry'd the Prince of _Modena_, she accompany'd her into that Country, where she stay'd till her Marriage, which was concluded at _Modena_ with the Emperor _Joseph_, then King of the _Romans_; for whom the Duke her Brother-in-Law marry'd her as Proxy: She went afterwards to _Vienna_, where she was the Admiration of the whole Court, not only for the Lustre of her Person, but for the other Qualities with which Nature has endow'd her: She took Care to cultivate her Mind with much Reading, and especially by the Study of the Languages, to which she gave great Application with Success, and she understands _French_ and _Italian_ as well as her native Language. This Princess had several Children by the Emperor her Husband, of whom there are but Two Princesses living; the one call'd _Maria-Josepha_, marry'd to the Electoral Prince of _Saxony_, now King of _Poland_; and the other call'd _Maria-Amelia_, marry'd to the Electoral Prince, now the Elector, of _Bavaria_.

These, _Madame_, were the Persons of whom the Imperial Family then consisted: I had the Honour in a few Days after my Arrival to kiss the Hands of all this august Family, and was afterwards introduc'd to the Ministers; so that in a very little time I was known by the whole Court, and was so happy, as to acquire some Friends of Distinction, who gave me Marks of their good Will, without putting me to the Trouble of dancing Attendance, and desir'd Prince _Eugene_ to give me an Employment: I had the Honour to wait on that Prince with particular Letters of Recommendation, that I brought from the Elector Palatine. The Prince, who receiv'd me very kindly, told me, that he could not insure me a Place, because the Colonels dispos'd of all the Employments in their Regiments; but that he would oblige me to the utmost of his Power; and indeed some time after, he was so good as to speak for me to the Count _Max----_ of _S----_, who gave me a Company in his Regiment, which was then in _Sicily_. I was mightily charm'd with this Present, and imagin'd that Fortune was at length weary of having so long thwarted me: Yet when I began to think coolly of the Matter, I had some Reflections which made me relapse into my former Melancholy: I was not in Cash, and I saw that I could not avoid being at a considerable Expence. Besides, I had contracted some dribbling Debts, which I wanted to clear before I left _Vienna_: My Equipage was so much out of Repair, that it would cost some Money to remount it; and finally, there was a Necessity for my going to _Sicily_; all which Things were not to be done with a trifling Expence: Upon this Occasion I receiv'd fresh Proofs of the Affection of my Friends, who all interested themselves for me effectually: _Madamoseille de K----_, Maid of Honour to the Empress Dowager, procur'd me a Gratuity from her Imperial Majesty; and the Countess of _W----_, at whose House I was every Day, advanc'd me a Thousand Ducats, saying, That I should pay her when I was able, or rather, when I was preferr'd to be a Lieutenant-General. She accompany'd her Generosity too with some Advice, that was truly wise and christian, and seem'd to come rather from the Lips of a Mother than a Friend. This Lady was heartily glad that I had chang'd my Religion, and was the more willing to assist me in making an End of my Affairs, for Fear that I should be overcome by the Temptation of turning Protestant again, for the Sake of getting Employment in my own Country.

You see, _Madame_, by what I have just had the Honour to mention to you, that I was now in a Condition to quit _Vienna_ with Credit, and indeed my Stay there was no longer than to be a Spectator of Two great Solemnities, of which I am next to give you a Description: The first was the Entry of a _Turkish_ Ambassador, and the second the Marriage of the Archduchess _Maria-Josepha_ with the Electoral Prince of _Saxony_; upon both which Occasions the Imperial Court made the fullest Display of its Magnificence.