Chapter VIII: Appendix: 301 (8)

'Twas in a private Audience that I had the Honour of waiting on his Majesty: This is different from a public Audience, in that the latter, which is generally for common People, is granted with the Doors open, and in Presence of the Grandees, who are standing on both Sides of the Hall, and cover'd: The King is then seated in a Chair of State, plac'd under a Canopy: From the Entrance of the Audience Room to the King's Chair Three Genuflections are made; and when the Persons, who are honour'd with the Audience, are advanc'd near his Majesty's Person, they deliver what they have to say upon their Knees: _Philip_ V. never makes any other Answer, than _I will see, I will consider it_. After such Audience is ended, the Person who officiates as Master of the Ceremonies gives Notice with an audible Voice, when there is to be a private Audience. The Grandees then retire, and the Doors are shut, and I had my Audience in the manner following: I found the King alone in his Chamber, made my Three Obeisances to him, and when I came near to him fell on my Knees: I then said to him, that having heard his Majesty's Piety and his Zeal for the Catholic Religion highly extoll'd in all Places where-ever I had been; I thought I could not do better than to come and prostrate myself at his Feet, and to offer him my most humble Service; that I had incurr'd the Displeasure of my Sovereign, and lost all Expectation of ever being able to serve with Satisfaction in my own Country, because I had embrac'd the _Romish_ Religion, whereof I shew'd his Majesty a Testimonial, sign'd by the Cardinal _de Noailles_: I also shew'd him a Letter from the King of _Prussia_, with the Grant of the first Pension annex'd to the Office of Gentleman of the Bedchamber, which I had still no doubt enjoy'd, had I not alter'd my Religion: The King took the King of _Prussia_'s Letter, and the Testimonial of the Cardinal _de Noailles_, look'd upon both of them, and return'd them to me, saying, _I will consider your Request, and will soon dispatch you_: I then presented a Memorial to him, which he put in his Pocket, after which I arose, and went backwards out of the Chamber, repeating my Three Obeisances.

From the King's Audience I went to that of the Queen, to which I was introduc'd by her chief _Major-Domo_: This Princess was dress'd in the _Amazons_ Habit, because she was going a Hunting with the King; her first Lady of Honour and some of the Ladies of the Bedchamber were present: I also saw in the Door-way between the Chamber of Audience and the Queen's own Chamber the Prince of _Asturias_, who dy'd King of _Spain_ in 1724, the _Infantes_ his Brothers, and the _Infanta Maria-Anna Victoria_. I deliver'd myself to the Queen in very near the same Words as I had just before to the King, and she return'd me a gracious Answer, that _She should be always glad to serve me as far as lay in her Power_: I withdrew, hugely delighted with so obliging an Answer.

This, _Madame_, was my first setting out at the Court of _Spain_: It was natural, in the first Place, to look after the Main-Chance; for, as I have had the Honour to acquaint you, I had but little Cash; and what was worse Luck than all, no Effects, from which I could hope to raise any, so that if I had thrown myself ever so little into Company, I should have run the Risque of being soon a Beggar: The obliging manner in which the King and Queen had been pleas'd to receive me, was a reviving Cordial to my drooping Spirits: I began to entertain fresh Hopes, and thinking myself already in some Share of Favour, I went abroad among my Acquaintance, I found old Friends, and made new ones, and I had good Success at Play, which I thought a happy Omen, and enabled me to frequent the Court with that Ease and Freedom, which Persons seldom discover whose Finances are out of Order.

I am now to give you a short Account of the Court, and of those who made the greatest Figure at it; I need not treat of the King, all Mankind knows, and the late Wars sufficiently prov'd, that _Lewis_, Dauphin of _France_, Son to _Lewis_ XIV. was his Father: He marry'd to his first Wife _Maria-Louisa Galeriela_ of _Savoy_, who dy'd at _Madrid_ the 14th of _February_, 1714, and whose Memory is still dear to the _Spaniards_; they greatly miss the _Savoyard_, as they call this Princess; The King of _Spain_ had several Children by her; the Eldest was _Don Lewis_, Prince of _Asturias_, afterwards King of _Spain_, by the Resignation of the King his Father in 1724, but this young Prince dy'd the same Year: The Name of the second was _Don Philip_, who was born at _Madrid_ in 1712, and dy'd in 1721; and the third _Don Ferdinand_, now Prince of _Asturias_.

After the Death of that Princess the King marry'd _Elizabeth Farnese_, Niece and Daughter-in-Law to the Duke of _Parma_: By this Princess the King has also had several Princes and Princesses: The Eldest Prince is _Don Carlos_, and was destin'd by the Quadruple Alliance to the Succession of _Tuscany_ and the Duchies of _Parma_ and _Placentia_: The second is _Don Philip_, who was born the 15th of _March_, 1720.

The Queen is tall and handsome, well-shap'd, but slender, and much pitted with the Small-Pox. She has a vast and enterprizing Genius, which no Difficulties can terrify. She made it very plain as soon as she set her Foot on _Spanish_ Ground, that she would not suffer herself to be led by the Nose: For before she had even seen the Face of the King, she banish'd the Princess of _Ursins_, both from the Court and Kingdom, because of the Ascendant she knew that Princess had over the King. She thought also of removing the _French_ from about him, and endeavour'd to put his Majesty out of Conceit with his own Countrymen. The _Spaniards_ were at first well enough pleas'd with all these Alterations, and hop'd that at length one of their own Nation would be singled out for Prime Minister; but they had the Mortification to see themselves govern'd by a Foreigner. The Abbot (afterwards Cardinal) _Alberoni_, by Birth a _Parmesan_, was advanc'd to the chief Dignities both in Church and State, and govern'd _Spain_ with such seeming Success, as made the Subjects entertain great Hopes of him. He gave the Queen a Glimpse of mighty Fortune that was to befal her Son: But a more refin'd Set of Politics knock'd all those vain Projects on the Head; and the Queen was so prejudic'd against him, that she was the first who persuaded the King to remove the Cardinal; which happen'd in the Manner that I have already had the Honour to acquaint you. The Credit of the Queen herself, however, suffer'd some Shock by this Alteration; for the King was for a while undetermin'd what Measures to take, but at length he replac'd all his Confidence in the Queen, and 'tis she that still governs, tho', indeed, she is supported by Ministers who have great Talents for Government.

The Person who had the Charge of Foreign Affairs when I arriv'd at _Madrid_, was the Marquis _Grimaldo_, who had the Reputation of a Man of the strictest Honour and Probity. I had the Favour to see him more than once, and he always receiv'd me with very great Civility. I have been told, that he thorowly knows the King's good Pleasure with regard to such private Men as make their Court to him; and that when he tells a Person the King has a Respect for him, he need not despair of carrying any Point. Nevertheless, I question whether such a Compliment could be safely depended on; for, I observ'd, he paid it to a great many People: And, as for my own Part, _M. Grimaldo_ said to me, that the King was so gracious as to esteem me, before I had even the Honour of paying my Duty to his Majesty.

_M. de Campo Florido_ had the Management of the Finances. He was a very polite disinterested Minister; and 'tis certain that he made none of those Purchases which are always the Consequence of a splendid Fortune. But notwithstanding his being so disinterested, this Minister had the same Fate as all that have the Management of the Finances, not to be belov'd: And tho' when he first came to the Direction of the Finances, he found them in a very bad State, no Allowance was made him upon that Score, but an Account was demanded from him of the Wealth which others had squander'd.

_M. de Castelar_ was Secretary at War, and had been just preferr'd to that Employment as I arriv'd at _Madrid_. He is the civillest Minister I ever knew: And tho' he had such a Weight of Affairs upon him, he had an easy Air, which was a Pleasure to all that had any Business with him. He had another Quality, not very common to Gentlemen in the Ministry, which was to keep no body in Suspence; for People very soon knew what they had to trust to: And whether 'twas a Grant or a Refusal, they were equally satisfy'd with the Minister, who gave with Pleasure, and never refus'd a Request but when 'twas not in his Power to grant it.

These, _Madame_, were the Ministers then employ'd in the several Offices. At that time there was no Prime Minister in _Spain_; for, after Cardinal _Alberoni_'s Disgrace, the King manag'd Affairs himself, or rather the Queen govern'd as the real Sovereign. But as great as her Sway was, she had much ado to get the better of the King's Confessor, who had a great Share in all Affairs. This was the famous Father _Daubanton_, a Jesuit, who had an Ascendant over the King to such a Degree, that nothing of Moment was transacted without his Opinion. He was therefore, in Reality, the Prime Minister of _Spain_; at least he only wanted the Title, for he perform'd the Functions of such a one, but without the Wit, the Finesse, and the Policy of the disgrac'd Minister; for he was severe, merciless, and so hard-hearted, that when he saw Officers reduc'd to the last Extremity for want of their Pay, it gave him no Disturbance. To him I apply'd, as every body else did, to beg the Honour of his Protection; and when I came near him, I found him a haughty proud Man, and one that was extremely rigid. 'Tis true, that when he had to do with Persons from whom he expected any Services, all this Stateliness was laid aside; he was then quite another Man: And was so perfect a Matter of the Art of dissembling, that Civility, Good-nature, and Humility seem'd painted so strongly in his Features, as would induce one to think nothing could be more sincere, and that this external Appearance was the pure Expression of his secret Thoughts. The _Roman_ Purple was, they say, the Centre of all his Views; and, being wholly ambitious of this Dignity, he thought every Measure equally right that had a Tendency to a red Hat. Cardinal _Alberoni_ wheedled him with the Hopes of it one while, just to get some Services of him that he then stood in need of. The Regent of _France_ also gave him a Prospect of it, as a Reward that he might infallibly depend on, if he could prevail on his Catholic Majesty to sign the Treaty of the Quadruple Alliance. This Jesuit set heartily about it, and succeeded; but the Hat, so much aspir'd after, was given to another; and all the Thanks that the Reverend Father had for his Pains, was an Abbey for one pf his Nephews. Something offer'd before I left _Spain_, which will give me occasion to speak to you of this Cardinal again.

Cardinal _Borgia_ was also in very high Favour, but a wrong Person to apply to for Services; which indeed was owing to his Indolence more than any other Reason; for, as to a friendly Temper, I do not think there ever was a Man who possess'd that Virtue in a more eminent Degree. He was withal very devout, but was reckon'd so unlearned, that I have been assur'd he did not know a word of _Latin_; and upon this Head I heard the following Story, which I do not retail to you for Gospel. I was told, that when the Duke of _St. Aignan_, the Ambassador of _France_, was preparing to make this Cardinal a Visit, he was appris'd that his Eminency did not understand _French_. The Ambassador thought it would do every whit as well if he convers'd with him in _Latin_, and therefore he greeted him in that Language; but he found, to his great Surprize, that the Prelate made Answer to him in _Spanish_, that he did not understand the _French_ Tongue; and somebody, who was present at the Audience, telling the Cardinal, that the Ambassador spoke to him not in _French_ but in _Latin_, the Cardinal said, _Aye, but I do not understand Latin-French_: So that there was a Necessity of carrying on the Conversation by an Interpreter.

Tho' the Characters of the Ministers and Favourites were so different, there was a Necessity of my conforming to them all, in Hopes that the Steps I had taken would not be in vain. I took great Care therefore to see them all, to desire them to speak in my Favour. Whether they did so, I know not; nor whether the little Ray of Fortune which began to shine upon me, but soon vanish'd, was the Effect of their Recommendations, or to an Impression I had made upon the King's Heart, by the Narrative I had given him of the State of my Affairs, the Disorder of which had been owing in the first Place to my changing my Religion, which had forc'd me to quit the Service of my Sovereign. Be this as it will, I received a very favourable Answer to the Memorial which I had the Honour of presenting to the King: He granted me a Lieutenant-Colonel's Commission in the future Regiment of _Sicily_, together with the _Soldo vivo_, which amounted to about Sixteen Pistoles a Month. What they call the _Soldo vivo_ in _Spain_ is, when the same Pay is advanc'd as if the Corps was actually on an Establishment or Footing. I thought this very handsome Pay, and that my Affairs were already in a promising way. I found that with such a Sum an Officer might maintain himself very well in his Quarters. I actually form'd Schemes for a Settlement; and, having paid dear for my Folly, I began to talk of House-keeping. I computed, that with what would now be my Income from _Spain_, and what was to revert to me from my own Family, I should be able to repair my tatter'd Equipage, and to appear in a decent Manner, till such time as Fortune, which now began to be something kinder than usual, had put me in a Condition to make the Figure I aspir'd to.

As soon as the King had admitted me into his Service, I did not fail to wait on him with my most humble Acknowledgments: I had also the Honour of thanking the Queen, to whom I made my Compliment in _High-Dutch_, and that Princess return'd me her Answer in the same Language. Soon after this I set out for _Arragon_, where the Regiment in which I was to serve was then in Quarters. But as I came into _Spain_ with very little Money, I was soon oblig'd to return to _Madrid_, to desire some small Gratuity, till I receiv'd my Pay. Some of my Friends advis'd me to ask boldly for a handsome round Sum, or for a Pension upon Benefices; because if I depended on my Pay for Subsistance, I should be very much out in my Reckoning; that in _Spain_, more than elsewhere, they were backward in their Pay, and always one Year in Arrear, and sometimes two or three, according as they dun the Minister, or dawb the Treasurer's Fist. This News put me a little out of Temper, and from that time I began to perceive that Fortune would jilt me as much in _Spain_ as she had done elsewhere: Nevertheless, my Courage did not quite fail me, I apply'd to the Secretary at War, who referred me to Father _Daubanton_, and the latter told me, with all the Solemnity that could be, that 'twas none of his Business. You see, _Madame_, that this was a fine Setting out: However, I was not dishearten'd: And being so much us'd as I was to Rebuffs, I had as lieve be deny'd twice as once. I rapp'd at various Doors, but they were all either shut against me, or, if open'd, 'twas to no Purpose. I resolv'd to address myself immediately to the King, and had the Honour of presenting a Petition to him, in which I gave him an Account of my present Situation: 1st, By the Disaster of the Bank Bills; and, 2dly, by the strange Procedure of the King's Lieutenant at _Bayonne_. The King, when he took my Petition, answer'd, _I will consider it._ It must be observ'd, that the King was then at _Aranjuez_, for which Reason there was no Minister with him but _M. de Grimaldo_. This was the Minister to whom the other Secretaries of War and the Finances, and the President of the Council of _Castile_, were oblig'd to address their Dispatches, which was some Hindrance to Business; but, in short, such is the Practice of the _Spanish_ Court. For the Councils only attend the King at _Buen Retiro_, and this because 'tis in _Madrid_ itself; for as soon as the King goes from his Capital City, all Affairs pass thro' the Hands of a single Minister.

I waited therefore upon _M. de Grimaldo_, to know the Result of my Petition. This Minister, according to his laudable Custom, told me, that the King had a very great Esteem for me: This thread-bare Answer was very little Comfort to me; and even tho' it were true that his Majesty honour'd me with his Esteem, I saw plainly that mine was a Situation in which the Esteem of Princes is mere Whip-Cream, if it be not accompany'd with something solid. I earnestly press'd _M. de Grimaldo_ that he would be so kind as to procure me something else besides Esteem. At last, after several Goings backward and forward, the Minister said to me one Day, with a Smile, that my Affairs went on swimmingly: I immediately thought my Business done, and wanted nothing but to know the Value of the Gratuity or Pension that was granted to me: But there was nothing in it; the good Turn that my Affairs had taken, was only to be referr'd back again to Father _Daubanton_. I waited, therefore, on the Reverend Father, and, with all possible Respect, ask'd him, what was the Effect of a Petition that had been referr'd to him? And to this humble Request I added another, still more humble, which was to obtain the Honour of his Protection: But my Compliment and my Respects were not very welcome, and he answer'd me, very short: _Do you imagine, Sir, that I have nothing else to do, but to think of your Petition: I have not yet seen it, Sir, nor do I know whether it has ever been sent to me._ I reply'd, but still with the profoundest Respect, that _M. de Grimaldo_ had told me that----_Alas!_ said he, interrupting me, _M. de Grimaldo! M. de Grimaldo!_ And the Words were no sooner out of his Mouth, but he whipp'd into his Closet, and slapp'd the Door in my Face. I saw plainly that the Wind did not sit right for his Reverence, and therefore lay by till next Day: Then I made up to him again much about the Time that I knew he us'd to go to the King, and planted myself in a Nook of his Entry, in the humble Posture of a Supplicant: The Jesuit, his Companion, seeing me there, desir'd me to walk into the Antichamber; but I could not be prevail'd on to accept of an Honour which I said did not belong to me; tho' the Truth was, that I chose to stay in the Entry, as the surest Place of speaking with the Confessor; for I had observ'd, that the Reverend Father often put the Bite upon People that waited for him in the Antichamber, by stealing out at a private Door that open'd into the Entry where I then was. I stay'd there a full Hour, when, as I had before imagin'd, I saw my Gentleman slipping out at the private Door: I accosted him in the Passage, and humbly put him in Mind, that I had the Honour of speaking to him the Day before: I found him in a little better Humour than he was then, for he promis'd me that he would speak to the King, and bid me attend him for the Answer next Day. You will imagine that I did not fail to be there: He told me then, that he had not an Opportunity as yet of speaking to the King about my Affair, but that he would infallibly mention it to him in a few Days: Mean time these Days amounted insensibly to Weeks, and the Weeks to Months, which had like to have put me out of all manner of Patience. I could not be reproach'd with Want of Solicitation, for certainly there was not a Morning but I took my Walk in the Confessor's Antichamber, where he saw me sure enough, and would sometimes honour me with a Nod, and at other times with a Frown: And, in fine, after having so often danc'd Attendance, all I could obtain was a formal Denial.

I own to you, _Madame_, I was a little stunn'd by this Shock: For I had neither Money nor Credit, and knew not who I could ask to lend me a Sum, till I receiv'd a Quarter's Wages: Besides, how could I depend upon such Pay as was put off from one Year to another? In this sad Situation I was so fortunate as to make an Acquaintance with Mr. _Stanhope_, by the means of one _Holtzendorff_, that Minister's Secretary, who was a Native of _Berlin_, and has a Brother a _Valet de Chambre_ to the King of _Prussia_. He was glad to shew me his Acknowledgment of some Services my Relations had done him, by bringing me acquainted with his Master. Mr. _Stanhope_ was wonderfully kind to me, and even interceded in my Favour with the Confessor, and with _M. Scotti_, the Minister of _Parma_, who could do any thing with the Queen; but Mr. _Stanhope_ had no better Success than I had: However, he did me all the Services in his Power, press'd me to accept of his Table, offer'd me also his Equipage, and advanc'd me some Money: In a Word, he treated me as the best Friend I had could have done; and I may say, that I have substantial Obligations to that Gentleman, because, if it had not been for him, _all my Days_ in Spain _would have been Sorrows, and my Travel Grief_[28].

While I lost so much Time in solliciting Father _Daubanton_, I did not omit to take Notice of what was remarkable, not only at _Madrid_ but the Royal Palaces, to which the Court remov'd from time to time. _Madrid_ is, properly speaking, the Capital City of all _Spain_, and the common Residence of its Kings, who have a large Palace there, the chief Front of which was built by the Emperor _Charles_ V. The Inside has been alter'd for the better, and much embellish'd by _Philip_ V. The Castle is at the End of a large Court which forms a long Square: The Two Sides of this Court are lin'd with low Buildings, Part whereof serves as a Guard-house for the _Spanish_ and _Walloon_ Guards, who range themselves in Two Rows in this Court, when the King or any of the Royal Family passes thro' it. At the Entrance of this Court there are Three grand Portico's. The Front of the Palace on the Court-side consists of a main Pile of Building, in the Centre between Two very narrow Pavilions; and at the Entrance of each is a great Gate: The middlemost, which is the principal, is very darksome, and leads into a very spacious Area, arch'd over, where several Coaches may turn at one and the same time: This separates Two Square Courts of the same Size and Structure, encompass'd with a Range of Free-Stone Pillars, that form a Piazza which runs all round it. In the Court, which is on the Right Hand, is the Stair-Case, which leads up to the Apartments of the King and Queen; and in the other are the Offices of the Ministers.

The King's Apartment consists in the first Place of a Guard-Room, which is neither spacious nor lightsome: On the Left Side of this Room is a very long Row of Chambers, very narrow and low, without a Ceiling, or any other Ornaments, but very rich Tapistry: At the End of this Row there are Three Apartments, built by Order of the Princess of _Ursins_: The first of these is a large Saloon, very high and well proportion'd, inlaid and wainscotted, and in the Compartments are to be seen the Pictures of several Kings, Queens and Princes of _Spain_, painted by the ablest Masters: The second Piece is an Octogon, contriv'd in that Form for the Sake of Four little Offices in the Angles of the Square: From this Apartment is a Passage to the King's Chamber, which is very large, and intirely furnish'd with crimson Damask, adorn'd with Gold Lace and Fringe, tho' the Tapistry can scarce be seen, 'tis so much hid by excellent Pictures and noble Pier-Glasses.

The Queen's Apartment is not so large, nor near so fine as the King's: Her Majesty has a Guard-Room separate from the King's: Their Majesties may walk on the same Floor to the Chapel, which is not very large, but richly adorn'd: The Gallery is no higher than the Pavement of the Chapel, which is of very fine Marble: The Windows of the Chapel are all of Glass: None but the _Infantes_ fit in the Gallery, and the Grandees of _Spain_ are seated upon Forms, that are plac'd on each Side from the Gallery to the Altar: I am apt to think, that the Cardinals are allow'd a Great Chair and a Reading Desk in the Chapel, even tho' his Majesty be present: At least, I saw, that the Cardinal _Borgia_ had that Privilege.

In this Palace the King us'd to pass the Winter till Mid-Lent, and then his Majesty went to the Palace of _Retiro_, which stands near the Gate of _Alcala_: 'Tis a vast large Building, but without Ornament or Architecture, and looks more like a Convent than a Royal House: The Inside too is perfectly answerable to the Outside: The Rooms are very small, the Tapistries and Paintings very rich, but the _Spaniards_ are so negligent, that they suffer the Rats to gnaw the fine Hangings, and take no Care to repair them: There are noble Pictures also in another Room of this same Palace, which represent the principal Actions of the Duke of _Feria_, several of which Pictures, more is the Pity, have been cut into Quarters to enlarge the Entry of the Room.

The Gardens of this Palace are inconsiderable. _Philip_ V. it seems intended once to have embellish'd them, and had actually caus'd the Works for it to be begun, but the same have since been discontinued: There's nothing in them remarkable besides a Statue of Brass, which is plac'd in the middle of a little Flower-Garden wall'd in: 'Tis a Statue of _Philip_ II. on Horseback, and one of the boldest Pieces of Sculpture in _Europe_: The Horse is represented curvetting with his whole Body, resting upon only one of his Haunches: The rest of the Gardens is nothing but a great Inclosure with irregular Walks: I saw a very fine Piece of Water there: The King's Mall is worth seeing, as is also the Menagery, which is full of very uncommon Animals.

The King and the Queen, whether they are at _Madrid_ or at _Retiro_, always live in the same manner: They were not the most early Risers, and when the Levee was notify'd, their Majesties did not rise for all that immediately; but the King first had a Couple of new-laid Eggs, and then some Chocolate for his Breakfast: The Queen only drank some Chocolate: After this their Majesties sent for the Marquis _de Grimaldo_, with whom they talk'd about Business, after which they arose: Then Father _Daubanton_ came in, and stay'd with the King a full Hour: His Majesty went afterwards to Mass, and when Chapel was over, the King gave Audience to his Subjects, or else went to the Council of _Castile_: Sometimes he employ'd himself in his Closet till Dinner, when he sat down quite in private, with none but the Queen: After Dinner their Majesties went out together a Hunting, and return'd somewhat late: As soon as they were come back, they were serv'd with a Collation, which consisted of cold Partridge, of the like to which Collations _M. de Grimaldo_ was admitted: When these were ended, the King gave Audience in his Closet to the Foreign Ministers, or other Persons of Distinction: During these Audiences the King was commonly standing and bare-headed, and the Queen was all the while behind a Screen, near enough for her to hear every Word that was said: After these Audiences, when the King had a Mind to do Business, he sent for the Marquis _de Castelar_ or _Campoflorido_, who stay'd but Half an Hour with him at most. Then his Majesty spent the rest of the Evening with the Infants, the Ladies of the Bedchamber and their Associates; and sometimes there was Play till Supper was ready, at which _M. de Scotti_, the Minister of _Parma_, and a very great Favourite, was generally present, to converse with their Majesties: As soon as they arose from Table they went to Bed.

The Pleasures of the Court when in the Country, were little, if any thing, more gay than those at _Madrid_: I saw the Court more than once at _Aranjuez_, where I took Notice, that they spent their Afternoons either in Hunting or taking the Air in the Gardens of the Palace: In these Airings their Majesties shot Crows with small Hand-Guns, which would kill at a good Distance: The Queen generally hit her Mark better than the King. While their Majesties hunted on one Side of the Castle, the Prince of _Asturias_, accompany'd by the _Infante_ his Brother and his Governors, hunted on the other Side, and did not return till Night.

The King spent the _Easter_-Holidays while I was here at the Palace of _Retiro_: This gave me an Opportunity of seeing the Processions of the Holy Week, which were made upon every _Good-Friday_, to the Palace of _Retiro_, where the King and the Queen, the Prince of _Asturias_ and the Infants saw them pass: I will frankly confess to you, that I never saw any thing so pitiful, not to say scandalous, as this sort of Processions: It seem'd as if they had been resolv'd to turn the most sacred thing in the World into Ridicule: The Subject of the Procession was no less than the Sufferings and Death of our Saviour; but the whole was represented in so burlesque a manner, that really I am surpriz'd, why a Court of Inquisition, which very often sentences People to be burnt for imaginary Crimes, does not severely punish those that are Partakers at such Festivals: In the Procession which I saw, our Saviour was represented as big as the Life in various Attitudes: In one Part of it he was exhibited on Mount _Calvary_, clad in a Night-Gown of purple Taffeta, praying to his Father to remove the Cup from him, which was reach'd forth to him by a little Angel, that was fasten'd only by a Wire, that it might look as if it hover'd in the Air: Afterwards other Persons came with the Image of our Saviour bound to a Cross, and as big as the Life, having on his Head not a Crown of Thorns, but a long natural Perriwig well powder'd, and adorn'd with a Knot of colour'd Ribbons: In short, every Circumstance of the Suffering and Death of Jesus Christ was represented to the Life, and in such Postures as were more comical some than others: Every Image was guarded by 4, 6, or 8 Men, arm'd _cap-a-pie_, and bearing Halberds in their Hands: Between every Image march'd the Clergy, and the several Orders of Friars: At the Head of the Procession there walk'd Men who were cover'd all over with black Cloth, so that 'twas not possible to see so much as their Faces, there being only a little Hole made in the Garment for them to see and breathe thro', tho' they also made Use of it to blow a sort of Horns, very much like those of Sow-Gelders. They had Hats upon their Heads, with high Crowns like Sugar-Loaves: This sable Company was follow'd by other Men, and by little Boys, stark naked from the Head to the Waist, whose Bodies were twin'd about with Straw-Bands, and their Arms tied to a Piece of Wood, which oblig'd them to hold them extended, as if they had been fasten'd to a Cross: There was also a Company of Flagellant Friars, but they did not presume to come in Sight of the King, and therefore they stay'd and join'd in the Procession, as it came back from _Buen Retiro_.

There were Processions also in the same Taste during the _Easter_ Week, when the Holy Sacrament was carry'd to the Sick: The Streets and Balconies were on this Occasion hung with Tapistry: The Sacrament, which was carry'd under a Canopy, was preceded by a great Number of Priests and Friars, who had all Wax-Tapers in their Hands: There was also a numerous Symphony, and a great many Dancers, in Masks of several Sorts, leaping and playing Gambols with Castanets snapping in their Hands: And in this manner they danc'd before the Holy Sacrament, and continued it even in the Church, till such time as the Benediction was pronounc'd.

I speak to you of these Ceremonies, _Madame_, as one that saw them with my own Eyes: I had a Description given to me of them before, which was pretty much like it, but I took all that had been told me as pure Calumny, invented to run down the Worship which the Church of _Rome_ pays to the greatest of our Mysteries; the rather, because they, that had given me the Account of it, were _Calvinists_: I was willing to be an Eye-Witness myself of every thing which I had been assur'd was observ'd in the Ceremonial of the _Spanish_ Church: For this Reason I attended all these Processions with the greatest Eagerness that could be, and was really scandaliz'd to see that verify'd which I had only imagin'd to be the Inventions of the Enemies of the Church of _Rome_.

'Tis such unpleasant Walking in the Streets of _Madrid_, that I question whether that might not make me the more out of Temper with those Superstitions: For this, tho' a very fine City, and adorn'd with Squares, in which there are noble Fountains, and tho' it has Streets moreover which are very spacious, strait and lightsome, 'tis nevertheless so very nasty, that there are few Towns like it, which are ever so little govern'd: From all the Houses they throw out a great deal of Ordure, which, they pretend, wastes away in one Night's Time, the Air of _Madrid_ is so corrosive: Yet I experienc'd the contrary, and was terribly annoy'd with the Stench of it: But for all this, the daily Nuisance of the Streets of _Madrid_ is nothing in comparison of what one is forc'd to suffer upon the Days of Solemnity; for on such Days the Streets are generally clean'd, and then all the Soil being put in Motion, 'tis hardly possible to bear it, especially in a dry Season, when the whole being reduc'd into fine Dust, the very Air we breathe is tainted with it, and it penetrates every thing that one eats: I heard an _Italian_ Physician say, he was sure that 'twas scarce possible for a Foreigner, be he ever so circumspect and retir'd, to spend Three or Four Years at _Madrid_ without being attack'd with a Distemper which we look upon with Horror; but the _Spaniards_ are not at all frighten'd at it, for they say, that in many Families 'tis hereditary. The Doctor said, that every thing they breath'd, eat or drank, was poison'd by the Nastiness of _Madrid_.

What can be the Reason why the People are so very slovenly I can't imagine, for there are considerable Sums distributed every Year to keep the Streets clean: Perhaps it may be only owing to the Sloth of the _Spaniards_, for I don't know a Nation upon Earth that is so much in Love with Idleness; and I am certain, that if they inhabited a Soil not so fruitful as their's is, they would soon die with Hunger: In the Winter they delight to spend their Time in basking in the Sun: In the Summer they sleep all Day long, or else drink Ice-Waters, and they reserve their Walks for the Night: The Country-People, who in all other Parts are so inur'd to Labour, are as idle in _Spain_ as the Town's-People: They can hardly be said to till the Ground, for they only scrape away the Surface of it, and then scatter their Seed: Yet 'tis surprizing, that every thing comes up here as well as in a Country that is better cultivated.

The _Spaniards_ being too indolent for Exercises that require any Labour, delight most of all in Walking, and in frequenting the Play-house, where they are sure of meeting with what is most diverting at _Madrid_: Yet I can assure you, there is nothing so lamentable as the _Spanish_ Representations, and the Place where they are exhibited is horrible: 'Tis very dark, and over the Benches which are plac'd in Form of an Amphitheatre, are the Boxes for the Ladies, who look thro' Grates. The Theatre is made after the manner of _Rome_, being a Row of Portico's, that are screen'd by Curtains, thro' which the Comedians enter upon the Stage: The whole is very indifferently lighted; but that which disgusted me more than any thing, was a Common-Sewer, of which I was sensible as soon as I enter'd the House, but could not presently discover where it was for Want of Light: It runs precisely under the middle of the Pit, and the Stench of it is intolerable. The Actors are very ill dress'd, and for the Generality very ill favour'd, or ill shap'd: The Actresses are more tolerable, but not much: The Plays are hardly better than those who perform them; yet the _Spaniards_ say, they are excellent Pieces. What most of all diverted me was their Dances between the Acts, than which it would be difficult to meet with any thing more ridiculous: Most of their Theatrical Performances are sacred Pieces, in which even the Mysteries of our Religion bear a Part: A Friend of mine actually assured me, that he saw the Holy Sacrament administer'd at it to a pretended sick Person, which, if true, I can't imagine how the Inquisition, that is so severe in other respects, can tolerate such Abuses.

Now I am speaking of the Inquisition, I was an Eye-Witness of the Severity of this Tribunal while I was in _Spain_: For not many Days after my Arrival at _Madrid_, I saw several Persons burnt who were convicted of Judaism: Among those poor unhappy Sufferers was a young Woman of about 18 or 20 Years of Age, the beautifullest that I saw in _Spain_: She went to her Execution with Joy imprinted on her Countenance, and dy'd with the Courage for which our Martyrs are so celebrated: Some time after this Execution the Inquisition made a great Search all over _Spain_: Above 40 Persons were taken up in one Night at _Madrid_, and among the rest one _Peralte_, a famous Physician, who seem'd to have been fated by his Star to die by the Inquisition: His Mother, who was their Prisoner when she was deliver'd of him, was burnt soon after her Lying-in: Young _Peralte_ was brought up in the Catholic Religion, but at 30 Years of Age he was accus'd, and convicted of Judaism: His Punishment for this time was only Three Years Imprisonment, but at length he was apprehended a second time, and after I left _Madrid_, I heard the poor Wretch was burnt there; in which the Prayers of his Mother were answer'd, for I was assur'd, that when this Woman mounted her Funeral Pile, she pray'd that her Son might one Day or other die the same Death: I was very glad that I was not at _Madrid_ at the time of this _Peralte_'s Execution, for I had some Knowledge of him, and tho' he was really a Bigot to Judaism, I thought him one of the civillest Men in the World.

I did not set out from _Madrid_ to join my Regiment, but went a quite different Way, in order to touch some Money which I did not know how to come at in _Spain_: And that I did not, was surely no Fault of mine, for I don't believe that ever any Courtier haunted Levees with so much Assiduity as I did, not only those of the King and Queen, but even the Father Confessor's Levee, whose Protection alone would have done my Business, if he would but have honour'd me with it: I was therefore every Day either in the King's Antichamber, or in the Reverend Father's, if not in both; and I follow'd the Court to all the Pleasure-houses about _Madrid_: I saw the Escurial, a stately Building, which _Philip_ II. caus'd to be erected in Memory of the Victory he gain'd over the _French_ near _St. Quentin_: 'Tis impossible to see a finer Structure than this is. _Philip_ II. intended at first to build only a Church and a Convent here, but afterwards he thought of having a Mansion here for himself, which is a perfect one of the kind: The Escurial is the Place where the Kings of _Spain_ are bury'd: The Vault in which their Bodies are deposited is a Master-piece of Architecture; every Place here shines with Gold and precious Stones.

_Philip_ V. was at this time building a Palace, now call'd _St. Ildephonso_, the Plan of which I thought was magnificent: The Situation of it was very advantageous, and it was to be furnish'd with noble Gardens.

The Pleasure-house which I most frequented while I was in _Spain_ is _Aranjuez_, situate Seven Leagues from _Madrid_, on the Banks of the _Tagus_, which runs round all its Gardens: The Neighbourhood of it is very magnificent: _Charles_ V. caus'd Avenues to be made to it, which are now in their full Beauty: 'Twas at _Aranjuez_ that I determin'd at last to take my Leave of his Majesty; for seeing there was no Possibility of getting any thing, I resolv'd to go to _Holland_, and from thence to _Germany_, in order to settle some Family Affairs: I thought once too I should not have had Leave to be gone, for the King did not seem inclinable to grant it: He was somewhat scrupulous upon this head, for fear I should change my Religion, till Father _Daubanton_, who was not so delicate in things of this Nature, said two Words to his Majesty, and then he consented to let me go: This was the only Obligation I ever receiv'd from that Reverend Father: When I took my Leave of the King, he order'd me to return as soon as possible, which I promis'd, and really design'd; but Fortune, which always thwarted my Undertakings, made me steer a quite contrary Course. Mr. _Stanhope_, who was always as generous to me as possible, was also very serviceable to me at my Departure, for he lent me 40 Pistoles for my Journey.

I set out from _Madrid_ in Company with a Nephew of _M. de Seissan_, who was going to see his Uncle at _Bilbao_: The Name of this young Gentleman was the Baron _D'V----_: It was not long before I had cause to repent of having taken such a Companion with me; for he was one of those young Officers who are always ready to clap their Hands on their Swords for the least thing in the World: He was moreover so hasty, or rather so stupid, that he never took time to hear what was said to him, for which Reason he very often imagin'd, that he was insulted when People had been at the Expence of paying him a Compliment: This, _Madame_, is a Part of the Character of the Spark with whom it was my Destiny to travel: He was so apt to enter into Conversation with every body he met upon the Road, that it had like to have cost us dear on the first Day of our setting out; for as we were travelling in the midst of a pretty thick sort of a Forest, I perceiv'd at a Distance Four Men well arm'd, advancing towards us in the main Road. As we could not avoid passing between them, I advis'd my Companion to be ready with his Pistols: Those Gentlemen seeing us well prepar'd, let us pass, but as we both took them for _Frenchmen_, the Baron _D'V----_ would needs stop our Chaise to enter into Discourse with them, and asked them who they were: They made Answer that they were _French_ Officers, who had fled their Country for an Affair of Honour: They asked in their Turn what News from _Madrid_; during which I observ'd that they were coming a little too near our Chaise, whereupon I broke off the Discourse, by ordering the Postilion to proceed with all the Haste possible, because we had Business: At the same time the pretended Officers doubled their Pace in order to keep up with us; but by good Luck for us we discovered from a little Eminence a Convoy of about 40 Mules, and several Persons on Horseback that were coming our Way: Our Pursuers no sooner perceiv'd them, but they turn'd about their Horses, and rode off with such Speed, as confirm'd me in my private Suspicion, that we had been talking with Highwaymen; which soon after appear'd to be past all Doubt by our meeting with several Alguasils or Messengers that were scouring the Country in quest of Four Men, who we could easily guess by the Description they gave of them must be the same that we had like to have been embroil'd with.

Upon the second Day's Journey my Companion and I had some Words together about paying our Quota's: As I was the Caterer, and in all my Life-time never car'd to pinch my Belly, the Baron thought that I was not frugal enough, and refus'd at first to pay his Shot. However, he comply'd at last, but, as the Expence always run in his Head, he never gave me one kind Look all the Way, and even affected not to speak to me: For my own Part, when I saw him in such a moody Disposition, I chose to be as silent as he, and since I could do nothing better, I fell quietly asleep, and ere I awak'd we had gone a good way: My Fellow-Traveller never open'd his Lips till we came to _Burgos_.

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BURGOS is the Capital of _Old Castile_, and was formerly the Seat of the Kings of _Spain_: It has nothing remarkable but a very great Square, surrounded with Houses of an exact Uniformity, supported by Pillars, which form a Gallery round the Square. The Cathedral Church is a magnificent Structure, but intirely in the _Gothic_ Taste.

Near _Burgos_ is a very numerous Abby of Nuns of Quality, who as well as all the Convents of _Spain_ have considerable Revenues: The Country from _Burgos_ to _Vittoria_ is finer and better cultivated than in _New Castile_, and the Villages seem more populous: I saw Peasants there so active to what the _Spaniards_ generally are, that I thought myself in another World.

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VITTORIA is a trading Town, situate in a fertile Plain, full of Villages: The Streets are very narrow, and the Houses, which are all of Timber, project in such a manner over the Streets, that opposite Neighbours may almost shake Hands from one Side of the Way to the other, which makes the Streets very darksome. This was the City, to which the Queen _Mary-Louisa_ of _Savoy_ retir'd with her Children and the Treasures of the Crown, when the Archduke _Charles_ the present Emperor, after the Battle of _Saragossa_ advanc'd towards _Madrid_, and thereby oblig'd King _Philip_ to quit _Spain_.

We lodg'd at the Post-house, where we found much better Accommodation than we had yet met with any where in _Spain_: But when we came to pay, behold another new Scene! for my Part, I pay'd my Share without grumbling, because I always observ'd, that make never so many Words it must come to that at last: Therefore, after having given what they told me was my Part of the Reckoning, I stay'd but a little while in my Chamber, to see if I had left nothing behind me, when all on a sudden I heard a great Noise in the Yard, upon which putting my Head out of the Window, I was very much astonish'd to see my Baron pulling the Coifs of the Landlady and Three or Four Maid-Servants, who were pommelling him to some Tune. I ran down Stairs ready to break my Neck, in order to rescue him out of the Clutches of those Termagants, and 'twas well I did, for the Landlady had snatch'd up a great Kitchen-Knife, with which she was going to run at him when I parted them, and with some Money the Landlady was pacify'd: What gave Occasion to the Quarrel was the Baron's Refusal to pay what was demanded of him, and his pretending to go away without leaving any Money: The Landlady, who was not to be jested with, had seiz'd him by the Collar, and he, in order to get rid of her, gave her a Slap in the Face; and the Landlady insisted absolutely upon Satisfaction for the Affront she had receiv'd; but at last, after a great deal of Clamour, they let us go.

At _Vittoria_ we quitted our Chaise and took Horses, because of the bad Roads we were to go thro' to _Bilbao_, in a Country abounding with Hills and Woods, which are the Shelter of Robbers: We alighted at a Cabaret, which was a lonely House in the midst of a Wood, and were quickly surrounded by 7 or 8 arm'd Men, who really had the Appearance of Ruffians: They ask'd us if we were Officers, and if we had no others in our Company: I had Presence of Mind enough to tell them, that we had left a Company of Horsemen just behind, whom we expected every Minute at that same Cabaret, and accordingly I order'd the proper Quantity of Hay to be got ready for the Horses: I know not whether this News frighten'd them; however, they soon left us, and rode farther into the Wood: We presently remounted our Horses, and proceeded on our Journey: About a League from the Cabaret we came to one of the highest Mountains that I had ever seen in my Life: As it was very steep, winding Roads were cut out to ascend it, wide enough for Two laden Mules to go abreast. At the Foot of this Hill was a charming Valley, which, after having travell'd Three or Four Leagues in it, carry'd us to _Bilbao_: This Valley is water'd by a River, the Banks of which are lin'd with Vines and several other Sorts of Trees: All this Country is extremely populous, so that one can't go 200 Paces without coming to a House: Here is also a prodigious Number of Forges, and they cry up their Iron for the best in all _Spain_.

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