Chapter III: Appendix: 301 (3)

As to the Entry of the Ambassador, I may venture to say, it was only magnificent on the Part of the Imperial Court, for in Truth the Mahometan's whole Train and Equipage were very inconsiderable. This Ambassador's Name was _Ibrahim Basha_; he had 600 Men in his Retinue, but they were all very shabbily rigg'd. Till the Day of his Entry he stay'd in a Camp, which he had caus'd to be form'd Two Leagues from _Vienna_; I went thither with some Friends to see him: He receiv'd us with very great Civility, and made us a Present of Coffee and Sweetmeats. During this Collation I took a minute View of the Inside of his Tent, which was really stately, and the largest that I ever saw: On the Ground there was a noble Carpet spread, and over that a Sort of Foot-cloth of Crimson Sattin, embroider'd with Gold, on which sate the Ambassador, with rich Cushions about him of the same: On this same Foot-cloth, at the Ambassador's Right Hand sate the Secretary of the Embassy: Round the Ambassador there was about a Score of Turks tolerably well dress'd, and among them Three or Four clever likely young Fellows; in particular I observ'd a Moor there, that was the handsomest Man I ever saw: His Dress was richer than the Garb of the other Turks, and, as I was told, he was the Ambassador's special Favourite. After we had talk'd awhile with him, and were taking our Leave of him, he was so civil as to offer to shew us his Camp, which we with Pleasure accepted, and set out accordingly with a Person that the Ambassador gave us for our Guide.

This Camp took up more Space of Ground than would have serv'd for 2000 Men. The Tents were a great way from one another, and plac'd without any Order. Their Horses, Oxen and Camels were all stow'd _higledy pigledy_. But the Ambassador's particular Equipage was in a Sort of Park, inclos'd by Toils like those that are us'd in Hunting: Every thing was to the last Degree slovenly, the inferior Domestics especially were the most disagreeable Gentry I ever saw; they had not Cloaths to their Backs, but what were in Rags and Tatters; and the chief Domestics were but little better rigg'd; several of them however were mighty civil to us, and desirous to regale us in their Tents.

Some Days after this our Visit, the Ambassador made his Entry with great Ceremony; the Marshal of the Court went and met him Half a League out of _Vienna_, at the Head of the Magistrates of the City, those made free by the Court, all the Trading Companies and Gentlemen, all well mounted and richly dress'd: The Ambassador was dragg'd along by a Pair of wretched Horses in one of his own Coaches, which was a little low Chariot, made almost like the cover'd Waggons of _Holland_, except that instead of Wax Cloth and Leather, it was cover'd with a red Cloth. When the Ambassador and the Marshal of the Court came near to one another, they both alighted, and after mutual Compliments mounted their Horses: There were carry'd before the Ambassador Three Horse-Tails and the Standard of _Mahomet_, which is a great Pair of Colours of green Taffeta, all sprinkled with Crescents of Gold: He who carry'd it was on Horseback, and that the End of the Colours might not trail upon the Ground, a Man that was on Foot held up the Corners of it. The Ambassador was preceded by all his Equipage, in which there was Half a Dozen of Waggons, cover'd with ragged Tilts, and drawn each by Four scrubbed Horses, that were led by Carters, whose Cloaths were in a very bad Pickle. After this Equipage came the Ambassador's Officers, and then twelve Horses, of which the Sultan made a Present to the Emperor. Behind the Ambassador there march'd a Company of _Spahis_, that carry'd Pikes, with small Standards at the End of various Colours. These were follow'd by a Company of _Janizaries_, who, tho' but meanly clad, made a very warlike Appearance, their Arms and Legs being both naked: The March was closed by a Regiment of _Hussars_.

This Train pass'd before the Palace call'd _la Favorita_, in View of the Emperor and Empress, and then went thro' the City, passing the Bridge over the _Danube_, into the Suburb of _Leopoldstat_, where a House was prepar'd for him, according to antient Custom, which is, that no _Turkish_ Ambassador must ever lodge in the City of _Vienna_.

The Ambassador seem'd to be very scrupulous in his Observation of the Ceremonial: He was loth to consent, that the _Janizaries_ should carry their Muskets on their Shoulders, when they pass'd before the Emperor at his Palace _la Favorita_; and pleaded in Excuse, that the _Janizaries_ did not march so even in Presence of the Sultan. He stood also upon his Punctilio in some other Trifles, to which however he was oblig'd to submit, or he was threaten'd that he should not make his Entry. The Ambassador on his Part to shew his Resentment, caus'd only Two Horse-Tails to be carry'd erect, and the Third downwards; but seeing that no body car'd for his being out of Humour, he soon came to himself again, and then was treated with Civility. He seem'd to be very fond of good Order, and caus'd some of his Domestics, who had committed certain Enormities, to be severely punish'd.

While the Ambassador stay'd at _Leopoldstat_, _Vienna_ swarm'd with _Turks_, most of whom having never been out of their own Country, star'd with so much Surprise at every thing they saw, that it afforded daily Diversion to the Public. One Day I observ'd a _Turk_ entring _St. Stephen_'s Church at the Time when there was no Service, nor so much as a Soul in the Church. I was so curious as to follow him at a Distance, and to observe all his Motions, which made me very merry: The Place at which he discover'd the greatest Astonishment was the Choir, the Form of the Clergy's Stalls there, the Construction of the High Altar; in a Word, every thing was to him a perfect Novelty: But the Thing which seem'd to puzzle him most of all was, a noble Lamp burning in the midst of the Choir: He turn'd round and round it again, and view'd it on every Side for a long while, but seem'd as much confounded as at first, wondring to be sure how they did to kindle it. Mean time, after a little Pause, he observ'd a String underneath it, which he took into his Head to pull, and finding that all came towards him, he brought the Lamp down to the Ground. I observ'd that he was mightily pleas'd that he had found out the Meaning of the Difficulty which had so much perplex'd him; and when the Fire was so near him, he pull'd a long Pipe out of his Pocket with so much Gravity, that I could not help smiling; and after he had lighted it at the Lamp, he hoisted it to the Place it was in before, and then went out.

Not many Days after the Entry of the _Turkish_ Ambassador was the Ceremony of the Marriage of the Archduchess _Maria-Josepha_ to the Electoral Prince of _Saxony_. The Marriage had been projected a long time, and 'tis even said, that the Emperor _Joseph_ had promis'd the King of _Poland_ in Writing to give his Eldest Daughter to the Electoral Prince, on Condition that he would turn to the Catholic Religion. Meantime, while this Match hung in Suspence, the Electoral Prince of _Bavaria_ enter'd the List, which very much embarras'd the Court of _Vienna_, who did not know for which Match to determine. The Person employ'd in this Negotiation by the _Saxon_ Court was the Count _de Wackerbarth_. Soon after him the Electoral Prince in Person came to the Court of _Vienna_, and when he was oblig'd to return, he left the Count _de Lagnasco_ there to take Care of his Interest; who at length obtain'd the Emperor's Consent, and the Count _de F----_ came with the Character of Ambassador to demand the Princess of the Emperor, which was done with very great Solemnity. As I was curious to know the Ceremonies usual upon such Occasions, I went to the Count _de F----_, on the Day that he was to go on the Emperor for his Audience. Who should I see arrive but the Count _D'Oropesa_, a Grandee of _Spain_, Knight of the Golden Fleece, and one of the Emperor's Chamberlains, in a Coach drawn by Six Horses, follow'd by a second Coach and Six, with the Emperor's Arms and Liveries: His Imperial Majesty's Footmen and the Count's Lackeys walk'd on each Side of the first Coach. The Count _de F----_ receiv'd the Count _D'Oropesa_ as he alighted out of his Coach, and conducted him into a Room, where Two Chairs of State were plac'd under a Canopy of Crimson Velvet, inrich'd with Embroidery and Gold Fringe; and over the Chairs was plac'd the Picture of the King of _Poland_. The Two Counts seated themselves in the Chairs of State, the Ambassador giving the Right Hand to the Count. They were both cover'd, talk'd for about a Quarter of an Hour, and then went out. The Ambassador stepp'd first into the Emperor's Coach, and then the Count _D'Oropesa_, the former riding forwards, and the latter backwards over-against him. Four of the principal _Saxon_ Gentlemen in the Ambassador's Retinue went into the second Coach. Then the March began, when one of the Coaches of the Court led the Way, follow'd by one of the Ambassador's Officers, at the Head of Twenty-four of his Excellency's Lackeys; the Coach wherein the Two Counts rode follow'd next; the Emperor's Footmen and the Count _D'Oropesa_'s Lackeys walking on each Side: Then came Eight of the Ambassador's Pages, Four of whom were in the _German_, and Four in the _Polish_ Dress; their Coats were of blue Velvet lac'd with Gold: Four Pages of the Back-stairs clad in blue Cloth lac'd with Gold follow'd the other Pages, and Three of the Ambassador's Coaches with Six Horses each clos'd the March: In this Order did the Train arrive at the Palace; the Ambassador's first Coach enter'd alone into the Inner Court, the Two others stay'd in the Outer Court. The Ambassador found the Emperor under a Canopy, and in the Name of the King his Master demanded the Archduchess of him in Marriage for the Electoral Prince: The Emperor made him Answer, that he was very willing, on condition that the Empress, Mother to the Archduchess, and the Archduchess herself gave their Consent. After this Audience the Ambassador was conducted to the Empress Regent, and to the Empress Mother, of whom he made the same Demand, almost in the same Terms. The Princesses answer'd, That if the Emperor was willing, and the Empress _Amelia_ and the Archduchess consented to it, they should see the Marriage concluded with Pleasure: Then the Ambassador was conducted to an Audience of the Empress _Amelia_, of whom he made the same Demand, telling her too of the Answer he had receiv'd from the Emperor and the Empresses. This Empress made Answer, That the Emperor's Will was always Her's, that the Electoral Prince was a Match that she lik'd, and that she hop'd the Archduchess her Daughter would not be against it; and that she would go that Instant, and let her know what he came about: At the same time she turn'd to the Countess of _Caraffa_, her Lady of Honour, and bad her send for the Archduchess: This Princess, being in an adjacent Room, came that Moment, dress'd most richly: And the Empress told her what the Ambassador had just declar'd to her on the Part of the King of _Poland_, relating to her Marriage with his Son the Electoral Prince: She added, that the Emperor, the Empresses and Herself had agreed to the Match; that nevertheless she was left absolutely to her own Disposal, and that the Emperor did not mean to constrain her: The Archduchess made Answer, That she had no Objection to the Marriage, and that she obey'd their Imperial Majesties Orders with Respect. After this Declaration the Ambassador advanc'd, and addressing himself to the Archduchess, presented her with the Electoral Prince's Picture adorn'd with Diamonds, which this Princess accepted, and without looking on it gave it to the Empress her Mother: The Empress, after having diligently view'd it, went to fasten it to the Body of the Archduchess's Gown, but the Ambassador desir'd her Imperial Majesty to grant him that Honour; and after this Ceremony he return'd to his Palace as he came.

The Emperor, the Empress Regent and the Empress Mother went to the Apartment of the Empress Dowager, where, after mutual Compliments of Congratulation, their Majesties din'd together. In the Evening the Emperor and the Empresses went to pay a Visit to the Archduchess, that was to be marry'd, where the whole Court was present, and there was great Play, after which their Imperial Majesties and the Archduchess went and supp'd with the Empress _Amelia_.

Some Days after this, the Ambassador of _Poland_ went again in Ceremony, but with his own Coaches, to the Palace _la Favorita_, where, in the Presence of all the Imperial Family, all the Ministers and Privy Counsellors, and the Knights of the Golden Fleece, he solemnly renounc'd the Right of Succession in the Name of the King his Master, and of the Electoral Prince of _Saxony_, in case it pleas'd God that the Emperor should dye without Male Issue. The Count _de Sinzendorf_, Chancellor of the Court, read the Act of Renunciation to all present, after which the Emperor demanded the Consent of the Archduchess, and the Princess giving her said Consent, the Emperor order'd an Oath thereupon to be administer'd to her, which she took accordingly before the Archbishop of _Valencia_. This Prelate being dress'd in his Pontificalibus before an Altar that had been erected in the Chamber, gave the Book of the Gospels to the Princess, who laying her Hands thereon, solemnly renounc'd the Rights of Succession. The Ambassador swore the same Thing in the Name of the King his Master, and the Electoral Prince of _Saxony_.

In a few Days after this was done, the Electoral Prince set out from _Dresden_, and came to a House made ready for him Two Leagues from _Vienna_. Having sent Notice of his Arrival to the Emperor, the Empresses and the Archduchess, the Emperor dispatch'd the Count _de Molard_ the chief Steward of his Kitchen to him, as the Empresses and the Archduchesses did the Gentlemen of their Housholds, to compliment him thereupon: Next Day the Prince came _incognito_ to the Convent of Nuns founded by the Empress _Amelia_, who also repair'd thither with the Two Archduchesses her Daughters. After an Interview of about Half an Hour, the Archduchess, that was to be marry'd, and the Electoral Prince of _Saxony_, went to the Church, and there confess'd; which done, the Prince return'd to his House, which, as I have had the Honour to observe to you, was Two Leagues from _Vienna_. He came again from thence next Day at Six in the Evening, and alighted at the Palace _la Favorita_, where being conducted into the great Chamberlain's Apartment, he there chang'd his Cloaths, and was then introduc'd by the great Chamberlain to the Emperor, and his Imperial Majesty led him to the Empress's Apartment, where were the Two Empress Dowagers and all the Archduchesses. The Emperor presented the Prince to them, and then they went to the Chapel in the following Order: The March was begun by all the Lords and Ladies of the Court; then came the Electoral Prince, with one of his Gentlemen, bearing a Wax Candlestick before him. The Emperor immediately follow'd the Prince, and then came the Three Empresses and the Archduchess, who was supported by the Two Empress Dowagers, the Empress Regent walking foremost, as she always did where-ever they went: The latter had on a Straw-colour'd Gown of Silver Tissue, adorn'd with Diamonds, and her Head Dress was adorn'd all over with Pearls like Pears. The Archduchess, whom I shall hereafter call the _Electoral Princess_, was also very richly dress'd; she wore a Fardingale, and her Gown was of Silver Brocade adorn'd with Diamonds: Next to the Princess the Three Archduchesses walk'd one after another, led each by their Equerries: These Princesses were follow'd by their Ladies, whose Dresses were of extraordinary Magnificence. As soon as the Electoral Prince and Princess were arriv'd in the Chapel, they received the nuptial Benediction from the Archbishop of _Vienna_. When the Ceremony was ended, the Imperial Family return'd to the Empress's Closet, where they stay'd near Two Hours, and then repair'd to the Table, in the same Order as they observ'd when they went to the Church. The Hall of the Festival was set off in an extraordinary manner; the Table was plac'd upon a Floor rais'd Three Steps, which form'd an oblong Square. The Emperor and the Three Empresses sate at one End; the Electoral Princess sate on the Right Side of the Table, and at the Right Hand of the Empress Mother; the Electoral Prince, who had the second Place on the Right Hand of the Princess, had a Chair with only a Back to it, and was serv'd by one of his own Chamberlains; whereas the Princess and the Archduchesses sate in Arm-chairs, and were attended by the Emperor's Chamberlains: Over-against the Princess, on the Left Hand of the Empress _Amelia_, sate the Archduchess her Daughter, and the Two Archduchesses the Emperor's Sisters: The Court Ladies stood all round the Table till their Imperial Majesties had each drank once, and then they went to sit down at Tables serv'd in different Rooms, but return'd to the Desart: There was such a Number of Services, that the Supper held a long time, during which it was animated by excellent Music: In the same Room a Sort of Gallery was erected for the _Turkish_ Ambassador, who saw all the Supper, and was attended by 30 of his Domestics. Care was taken to serve him with Sweetmeats and other Refreshments; and the Interpreter having ask'd him what he thought of the Magnificence of the Court of _Vienna_; he answer'd very gallantly, That noble as this Appearance was, there was nothing so grand in the whole Entertainment as the Person of the Empress.

After Supper was ended, the Empress Dowagers led the Princess into her own Apartment, and did not retire till she was in Bed: Next Day the Prince and Princess receiv'd the Compliments of the whole Court; they din'd afterwards with the Emperor and the Empresses, and at Night went and saw a new Opera, that was compos'd upon account of their Nuptials. The Emperor sate there as usual, with the Empress on his Left Hand, and the Archduchesses one after another in the same Row; the Electoral Princess preserv'd the Precedence due to her Birth; the Electoral Prince sate in the same Line as the Emperor, but after all the Archduchesses. The Opera was most magnificent, yet I thought it very tedious, for really 'twas too long; and besides, the Heat was intolerable: When the Opera was over, the Imperial Family supp'd together, as they did next Day at Dinner, which was the last Meal that the Prince and Princess made at _Vienna_; for as soon as they rose from Table, they took Leave of the Emperor and the Empresses, and set out for _Dresden_. There arose some Difficulty touching the Ceremonial that was to be observ'd as they pass'd thro' _Prague_, to avoid which the Electoral Prince went before, and pass'd round the Town; but the Princess made her Entry there.

* * * * *

As soon as the Princess was gone, I began to think what a tedious Journey I should have before I could join my Regiment, which, as I have had the Honour to tell you, was in _Sicily_. As this Journey would naturally keep me a long time out of my own Country, I was willing first of all to settle my Affairs. For this Reason I desir'd a Month's Furlough, and went to _Dresden_, from whence I sent for my Steward to come and meet me. I chose to stay at _Dresden_ rather than _Berlin_, not only on account of the Solemnity of the Princess's Entry, of which I was fond to be a Spectator, but because of the Enemies I had at the Court of _Prussia_, who would perhaps have done me some ill Office with the King. Having set out from _Vienna_ a few Days after the Electoral Princess, I arrived at _Dresden_ the same Day that her Highness made her Entry there. The Preparations made for receiving the Princess were of the utmost Magnificence, so that one could hardly imagine any thing more rich and gay. In order to give you some Idea of the _Polish_ Magnificence, I will resume my Narrative from the Time of the Princess's Departure from _Prague_.

As soon as the King had Notice that the Princess was gone from _Prague_, he sent the Count _de Wackerbarth_, Grand Master of the Artillery, at the Head of several Gentlemen, to meet her: The Count, who met the Princess on the Frontiers of _Bohemia_, complimented her in the King's Name, and presented those Officers to her which his Majesty sent to attend her; for till then she had been waited on by the Officers of the Emperor, who had all along defray'd her Expences. Her Highness proceeded in her Journey to _Pirna_, the first Town in _Saxony_, where she was receiv'd by the Electoral Prince, and saluted by the Cannon of the Castle of _Sonnenstein_. Next Day, at 7 o'Clock in the Morning, the Prince and Princess went on board the _Bucentaure_, which was a Galley finely rigg'd, and call'd by that Name, because 'twas built after the Model of the _Bucentaure_ of _Venice_: Their Galley was accompany'd by 100 Gondolas, painted and richly gilded, and by 12 Fregates, from 6 to 12 Guns each: All the Gondoliers and Sailors had Jackets of Sky-blue Sattin, and Breeches of yellow Sattin, lac'd with Silver. With this gallant Fleet, worthy to carry _Thetis_ and _Amphitrite_, the Prince and Princess arriv'd within Half a League of _Dresden_.

The King went in Cavalcade to the Place where the Princess landed, some Hours before her Arrival, and was attended by the Nobility of his Court, all richly dres'd. The King especially was attir'd most sumptuously, in shorn Velvet of a purple Colour, adorn'd with Diamonds, to the Value of Two Millions of Crowns: He caus'd his Standard to be carry'd before him by a _Polander_, arm'd _cap-a-pie_. As soon as he came to the Landing-Place, he made a Review of the Train that was to compose the Entry, and retir'd afterwards to a magnificent Tent, lin'd with yellow Velvet, adorn'd with Silver Lace, to wait the Arrival of the Princess.

As soon as the _Bucentaure_ came near enough to be seen from Land, she made a triple Discharge of all her Artillery, which were answer'd by the Cannon of Five Yatchts that were at Anchor on the _Elbe_, over-against the King's Tent, and from the Batteries on Shore.

During this the King went to the Ships, over a Bridge erected for that Purpose, and cover'd with green Tapistry, sprinkled with Flowers. The _Bucentaure_ dropping her Anchor, the Princess made ready to meet the King: When she came near him, she would fain have kiss'd his Hand, but the Monarch embrac'd her tenderly, and conducted her to his Tent, where he had some Conversation with the Prince and Princess, and then left them to return to _Dresden_.

The Prince and Princess sate down to Table, and a grand Breakfast was serv'd up; then the Boards of the Tent were struck down, that their Highnesses might see the Troops and Equipage march by that were to compose their Retinue at their Entry into _Dresden_: All this lasted about Two Hours; then came a stately Coach drawn by Eight Horses, being the Equipage that was for the Princess, who sate in it alone, while the Prince her Husband rode on Horseback, and they made their Entry with all the Pomp and Magnificence possible.

I own to you, _Madame_, that I was so charmed with the Disposition that was observ'd in this Procession, and especially with the Richness and Elegancy of the Habiliments, that I cannot resist the Temptation I feel to give you the Particulars, but must submit to it, tho' I run the Risque perhaps of being thought too tedious.

The Cavalcade was open'd by the King's Harbinger on Horseback, in the _Saxon_ Livery, which was yellow Cloth, with broad Lace of blue Velvet, mix'd with Silver Lace.

Then came 2 Post Masters.

The Baron _de Mordax_, Post Master General, preceded by his Domestics on Foot.

40 Post Masters of _Saxony_ clad in white with yellow Lace, the whole edg'd with Silver, as were also the Housings of their Horses, which were all over black.

100 Postilions dress'd in yellow with blue Lace, they had Caps like Dragoons, and the Housings of their Horses were embroider'd with the King's Arms.

120 Led Horses richly caparison'd, belonging to the chief Lords of the Court.

A Kettle-Drummer and 6 Trumpets, dress'd in the antique Garb in black Cloth and yellow, with Gold Lace.

50 Halberdiers on Horseback, dress'd also in the antique manner, in the yellow, black and gold Colours, bearing Halberds: These represented the ancient Guards of the Electors of _Saxony_.

The Nobility of _Lusatia_ dress'd in black Velvet, with Buttons and Button-holes of Gold.

24 Horses cover'd with great Housings of yellow Cloth, adorn'd with 2 Silver Lace Edgings, and the embroider'd Arms of the 24 Cities or Provinces of _Saxony_ and _Poland_.

A Kettle-Drummer and 6 Trumpets, habited like the former.

The Nobility of _Saxony_ dress'd in black Velvet Coats, with Buttons and Loops of Gold, and Waistcoats of Gold Brocade.

50 Halberdiers on Horseback, dress'd and arm'd like the former.

A Regiment of Dragoons, whose Regimental Cloaths were red, fac'd with grey, and edg'd with Silver Galoon; the Housings of the Horses were likewise red, and embroider'd with Silver; and the Dragoons were dress'd exactly like the Officers, only they had not Silver Lace.

120 Coaches and 6 Horses belonging to the Chamberlains and Ministers, each preceded by Lackeys and Running-Footmen, and surrounded by Heydukes, with 2 Pages in Front.

The King's Huntsmen, consisting of 200 Persons, dress'd in green with Silver Lace.

A Regiment of Horse-Grenadiers, cloath'd in red, turn'd up with green: The Officers had Gold Lace, and their Caps were likewise embroider'd with Gold.

An Equerry of the Princess Royal, attended by 2 Grooms in the _Saxon_ Livery on Horseback.

25 Hunting Horses, all _English_, belonging to the Electoral Prince: The Horses were cover'd with Housings of yellow Cloth, lac'd with Silver, and embroider'd with the Arms of _Poland_ and _Saxony_.

Another of the Electoral Prince's Equerries, at the Head of 36 Led Horses belonging to his Highness, which had Housings of yellow Velvet, adorn'd with Lace and Fringe of Silver; the Arms of _Poland_ and _Saxony_ being embroider'd upon each of the Saddle-cloths in 2 Escutcheons under a Royal Pavilion.

A Regiment of _Cuirassiers_, having their Cuirasses gilt, with white and straw-colour'd Plumes on their Helmets.

A Herald at Arms, wearing a Vest of yellow and blue Velvet, embroider'd with Silver, and a Cap of black Velvet, adorn'd with white and blue Plumes of Feathers.

A Kettle-Drummer and 12 Trumpeters in the Livery of _Saxony_.

3 of the King's Equerries, follow'd by 36 _English_ Horses, belonging to his Majesty, with Housings like to those of the Prince's Hunting Horses.

The Governor and Sub-Governor of the Pages, in Cloaks of black Damask, adorn'd with black and Gold Lace.

24 of the King's Pages, dress'd in the antique Mode, with Cloaks of blue and yellow Sattin, adorn'd with Lace, in the _Saxon_ Livery; and with black Velvet Caps, adorn'd with white and blue Plumes.

40 Manag'd Horses, with Housings of yellow Velvet, embroider'd with Silver, led by Grooms in the _Saxon_ Livery on Horseback.

An Equerry, follow'd by a Couple of Grooms in the _Saxon_ Livery on Horseback.

24 Coaches of the King as Elector, with Sets of Horses of several Colours.

A Kettle-Drummer and 12 Trumpeters in the _Saxon_ Livery.

A Litter of the King's, plated all over with Silver, and adorn'd with yellow Velvet, embroider'd with Silver, carry'd by a Couple of Mules, richly harness'd: Their Bells were all of Silver, and their Pannels of yellow Velvet, embroider'd with Silver; they had great Plumes on their Heads of blue and white Feathers, and the Muleteers were dress'd in the _Spanish_ Mode, but in the _Saxon_ Livery.

After this Litter there follow'd 24 Mules, cover'd with yellow Cloth Housings, lac'd with Silver, and embroider'd with the Royal Arms; they had blue and white Plumes of Feathers, and their Bells and Paniers were of solid Silver.

A Regiment of _Cuirassiers_, whose Cuirasses were wash'd with Silver, and Helmets tufted with red and white Plumes.

A Herald at Arms, with a Vest of straw-colour'd Velvet, embroider'd with Gold, with the Arms of _Poland_.

2 Equerries in the _Polish_ Habit.

A Kettle-Drummer and 12 of the King's Trumpeters in the _Polish_ Dress, in Scarlet with blue Velvet Lace, mix'd with Gold Lace.

36 _Polish_ Led Horses, having red Velvet Housings, with the King's Arms in Gold Embroidery.

A Governor of the _Polish_ Pages on Horseback, follow'd by 24 Pages in the _Polish_ Habit, of Scarlet with Vests of blue Sattin, the whole edg'd with an open Gold Lace.

3 of the King's Equerries in the _Polish_ Dress, Follow'd by 24 _Turkish_ Horses richly caparison'd _alamode de Turky_, led by Grooms in the _Polish_ Livery, but _Turkish_ Habit, walking on Foot, and bearing each on their Left Arm a Tyger's Skin, edg'd with scarlet Velvet, lac'd with Gold, and embroider'd with the King's Arms.

24 open Calashes, drawn each by 6 _Polish_ Horses, drove by Coachmen and Postilions in the _Polish_ Habit.

A Litter of red _Spanish_ Leather, lin'd with straw-colour'd Velvet, embroider'd with Gold, carry'd by 2 Mules, caparison'd after the _Turkish_ Mode, with Pannels of scarlet Velvet, embroider'd with Gold, and drove by Muleteers in the _Turkish_ Dress, but with the _Polish_ Livery.

24 Mules caparison'd after the _Turkish_ manner, with scarlet Velvet embroider'd with Gold.

A Regiment of Horse-Grenadiers dress'd in red, fac'd with blue, as were also the Officers, only with the Addition of a Silver Lace.

All the Colonels and Generals of the Troops dress'd uniform in Scarlet, with gilt Buttons.

The Veldt Marshal the Count _de Flemming_.

A Regiment of Dragoons in a red Livery fac'd with blue; only the Officers had their Facings and Vest embroider'd with Silver.

2 Harbingers of the Court.

All the Gentlemen of the Bedchamber, the Chamberlains and Ministers on Horseback, who were follow'd at some Distance by the Grand Marshal.

A Regiment of Dragoons, dress'd in red with yellow Facings, and the Coats of the Officers edg'd with a Gold Lace.

12 Running-Footmen with blue Damask Jackets lac'd with Silver, and Sashes of yellow Damask, embroider'd with Silver, and encompass'd with a Silver Fringe; these were follow'd by 24 Heydukes in the _Saxon_ Livery.

The Hundred _Swiss_ Guards, dress'd after the antique manner in the _Saxon_ Liveries, walking in Two Files, with their Officers in the _French_ Mode at their Head, in Sky-blue Coats, all of the same Pattern, with Silver Buttons and Button-holes, and Belts of Silver.

The Electoral Prince of _Saxony_ was in the midst of the Hundred _Swiss_; he had a Coat on of Cloth of Silver, embroider'd with Gold and Diamonds, and was mounted on a fine _Spanish_ Horse, the intire Equipage whereof was of Gold adorn'd with Diamonds. The Count _de Lutzelbourg_, great Steward of his Houshold, and the Baron _de Galen_, one of the Prince's Chamberlains, immediately follow'd him.

The Prince was attended by 36 Footmen in the _Saxon_ Livery, and by a Company of the King's Life-Guards.

Then came at a little Distance a Moor on Horseback, in the _Turkish_ Dress, all in Gold and Silver Brocade, bearing a Quiver of Arrows; he was follow'd by 24 Moors, dress'd also in the _Turkish_ Habit, in scarlet Cloaths edg'd with blue and Gold Lace, and long Vests of white Sattin; and upon their Turbans they wore very fine Tufts of Feathers.

Immediately after came the Princess's Coach between Two Files of the Hundred _Swiss_; 'twas adorn'd with crimson Velvet, cover'd all over with Gold Embroidery; the Roof was adorn'd with 8 great Plumes of white Feathers, and in the middle there were Tufts of Herons Feathers: This Equipage was drawn by 8 stately _Neapolitan_ Horses, which had Harnesses of Crimson Velvet embroider'd with Gold, and Plumes of white Feathers upon their Heads, with noble Housings of Crimson Velvet embroider'd with Gold, and edg'd with Gold Fringe, which hung down to the Ground: The Coachman, Postilions and 8 Grooms led the Horses by Strings and Reins of Gold, and they had Coats of crimson Velvet, with Waistcoats fac'd with blue Velvet, and adorn'd with a broad Gold Lace.

Immediately after her Highness's Coach the chief Steward of her Houshold follow'd on Horseback, attended by 24 Turks in Scarlet, with fine Tufts of Feathers on their Turbans.

A Company of the Life-Guards.

5 Coaches with the _Saxon_ Livery, in which sat the Princess's chief Lady and her Maids of Honour.

A Regiment of Horse, in a red Livery fac'd with blue, clos'd the March.

With this pompous Train the Princess arriv'd at the Palace: The Streets thro' which her Highness pass'd were lin'd with 5000 Foot in new Cloaths: The Electoral Prince handed the Princess out of her Coach, and led her into the grand Apartment, where were the King and Queen and the whole Court: From the very Entrance of the Palace to the Guard-Room the Hundred _Swiss_ were drawn up in Two Rows under Arms: The Guard-Room was lin'd with the Horse-Guards in scarlet Coats fac'd with blue, and blue Cloth Waistcoats embroider'd with Gold: The Life-Guards form'd the second Row, next to the Horse-Guards.

The King and Queen went to the third Antichamber to meet the Princess, when the King presented her to the Queen, whose Hand her Highness offer'd to kiss; but her Majesty embrac'd her, and taking her by the Hand, led her after the King into the Chamber of Audience: They stay'd there a few Moments, and then their Majesties and their Highnesses went into the Closet, from whence the Queen led her back in a little time to the Chamber of Audience, where she presented all the Ladies to her. Afterwards the Princess being fatigued retir'd to her Apartment, and the Court broke up till next Morning, when there was a _Te Deum_ sung, during which there was a triple Discharge of the Cannon from the Ramparts, and of the small Arms from all the Infantry: After this Solemnity was over, the King and Queen din'd in State, at a Table forming an oblong Square, rais'd Three Steps from the Floor, and plac'd under a magnificent Canopy: The Prince and Princess din'd with their Majesties, the Prince at one End of the Table near the King, and the Princess at the other End by the Queen: They had Arm-Chairs, but not so high as were those of their Majesties.

At the same time there were 9 Tables spread for 30 Guests apiece, for the Ladies, the Courtiers, and the Foreigners: There was a fine Concert of Music during the Dinner, and at Night an _Italian_ Opera.

The Court did not assemble next Day till the Evening, when there was a grand Ball, which the King open'd with the Queen: Their Majesties danc'd a _Polish_ Dance to the Music of Kettle-Drums and Trumpets: When the Dance was over, the King led the Queen to a Place that was rais'd Three Steps above the Floor, under a rich Canopy. He then danc'd with the Princess, who danc'd afterwards with the Queen; and then the Queen danc'd with the Prince, who danc'd afterwards with the Princess: When all these Dances were ended, they began Minuets, and the Ball lasted till 2 o'Clock in the Morning, only it was thrice interrupted by Three Collations, which were serv'd up by 24 _Polish_ Pages, as many _Saxon_ Pages, and by the same Number of Moors and Turks, who had all the same Habits as they wore upon the Day of the Entry, which was a Sight as singular as it was magnificent.

The next Day after this Ball, which was the 5th of _September_, a Comedy was perform'd by _French_ Comedians, who play'd _Ariane_, and _l'Ete des Coquettes_.

On the 6th there was a Battle of Beasts in Areas that were built for the Purpose.

On the 7th there was a grand _Italian_ Opera, intitul'd _Theophanes_, in which the famous Musicians _Senesino_ and _Bercelli_ perform'd surprisingly. The Opera being longer than ordinary, the King, who sat in the Pit, supp'd there with the Queen and their Royal Highnesses: And at the same time there were little Tables serv'd in the Boxes for the Ladies.

There were also several very splendid Feasts on the Days following: On the 10th all these Rejoicings were concluded by a Pastoral, that was play'd in the Garden of the King's Palace. There the King supp'd with the Queen and their Royal Highnesses, and 10 Tables were spread for 20 Guests at each, and serv'd all with Porcelain for the Court and Foreigners: After Supper there was a fine Firework play'd, representing the carrying off of the Golden Fleece: That was the last of the Entertainments I was present at, and I made ready to set out for _Sicily_, where my Employment required my Presence: Yet, before I leave _Dresden_, I must say a Word or two concerning the August Family, which resided there at that time.

The Royal Family consisted then of but Four Persons, the King, the Queen, the Electoral Prince and Princess.

The King is one of the best Princes that I ever knew; 'tis impossible to see him without being captivated by his graceful Mien; and his Civility wins the Hearts of all his Courtiers; he has all the Qualities fitting for a great King: His Father dying without Issue, he succeeded him in the Electorate of _Saxony_; and soon after, upon the Death of _John Sobieski_, the _Poles_ chose him for their King: When he was no more than Elector, he commanded the Emperor's Army, and gave authentic Proofs of his Wisdom and Valour.

The Queen is of the Family of _Brandenbourgh Bareith_, and was espous'd to the King, even before he was Elector: She is a Princess of a stately Port, and must have formerly been a Toast, on account of her Beauty, at the Time when she had more Colour in her Face, and less Flesh upon her Bones than she has now. She is very fond of Retirement, and bestows great Charities: She resides commonly at _Torgau_, or at _Pretsch_, and comes but very seldom to _Dresden_: She has a separate House from the King's, which is very suitable to her Dignity; she has also a separate Chapel, the King having given her the old Chapel at _Dresden_ and caus'd another to be built for Himself and the Catholics.

The Electoral Prince resembles the Queen very much: He is tall and very well set, and his Air plainly discovers him to be what he is: He delights very much in Hunting, and those Pleasures that require Exercise; which to be sure is very serviceable to him, for I thought him inclinable to grow fat: This Prince was very carefully educated by the Electoress his Grandmother, who was a Princess of _Denmark_: When he was able to support the Fatigues of Travelling the King sent him to _Italy_, and from thence to _France_, with a Retinue becoming the Son of a King; after which the Prince went to _Vienna_, and 'twas during the Stay he made at the Court that he had an Opportunity of observing the great Qualities of the Archduchess, now the Electoral Princess: You'll judge by the Account I have had the Honour to give you of this Princess, that it were almost impossible but she must be very much belov'd at the Court of _Saxony_; and she soon got the good Wishes of the whole Nation, so that the very People who conceiv'd some Umbrage at the Prince's Marriage, for Fear of their Religion, were quickly reconcil'd to it: For indeed what Violence was there room to apprehend from a Princess so highly distinguish'd for her Moderation and Good-nature?

These, _Madame_, were at the time the whole Royal Family; but now 'tis augmented by several Princes and Princesses, whom the Electoral Prince has had by the Princess his Spouse. Tho' the Royal Family was not numerous when I was there, yet the Number and Magnificence of the Princes and Courtiers, who were then at _Dresden_, made it very splendid: I had the Honour to know most of them very well, and found them all alike, behaving affable to Foreigners, and agreeable to their Birth: I don't undertake now to give you the Characters of those whom I had the Honour to be particularly acquainted with, being sensible that perhaps it would be a little too tedious: Nothing remains for me therefore but to give you some Account of the City of _Dresden_. [11] _Dresden_ is one of the finest Towns in _Germany_ for its Situation and its Structures; 'tis the Capital of _Misnia_ in _Upper Saxony_. _Charlemain_ was the first that caus'd it to be fortify'd; it has been for time out of Mind the ordinary Residence of the Dukes and Electors of _Saxony_, who have caus'd its Fortifications to be considerably augmented, and 'tis now a very strong Place: 'Tis divided by the River _Elbe_ into Two Parts, call'd _The New Town_ and _The Old Town_. In the latter stands the Prince's Palace, which was formerly a very fine Building, but only a Part of it is remaining, the rest being consum'd by Fire. That which still exists contains very fine Apartments, which the King has accommodated to the modern Taste, and they are nobly furnished; but they belong only to the King and Queen; and the Prince and Princess live in a separate Palace, which communicates therewith by Galleries: This Palace was built by the Countess of _Cosel_, who liv'd in it when she was in high Favour. The Rooms are a little of the smallest, but perfectly well dispos'd, and they are adorn'd with fine Paintings, and very richly furnish'd: Near the King's Palace there's a very fine Garden, call'd _Zuinger-Garten_, which is semi-circled in the Shape of a Horse-shoe, with magnificent Buildings that form Arches, over which there runs an open Gallery, which unites Three large Pavilions: In the middlemost there's a fine Grotto, on a Level with the Garden. The upper Story contains a very beautiful Saloon fac'd with Marble, with gilded Ornaments; the Ceiling is magnificent; the Windows instead of common Glass are embellished with very fine large Plate-Glass. The rest of the Building, which joins to this Garden, is of the same Magnificence, but yet perhaps a little too much incumber'd with carv'd Work.

Next to the Garden there is nothing finer to be seen than the King's Stables and Riding-House. Over the Stables there are very fine large Rooms, in which is kept all the Furniture for the Horses: In this Part there is also a Number of stately Buildings, which render _Old Dresden_ a very agreeable Place. The Streets are broad, most of them regular and well pav'd, and great Care is taken to keep up good Government in it.

This Quarter communicates with the new Town by a very beautiful Stone-Bridge: The first thing one meets with entring into _New Dresden_ is a House that belongs to the King, and is call'd _The Palace of_ Holland, because all the China Ware or Furniture, with which 'tis adorn'd, came from that Country: The Gardens of this House are very pleasant; and its Situation most charming by reason of the River _Elbe_, which runs just by it.

The Inhabitants of _Dresden_ are Lutherans, as well as those of the rest of _Saxony_, and the Catholics have not so much as one Church in it; for the King being not willing to infringe the Laws of the Country, is content to have one Chapel there for himself and his Family. The Elector of _Saxony_ bears the Title of _Grand Marshal of the Empire_, and is the Third in Rank among the Secular Electors.

Thus, _Madame_, have I given you what I saw most remarkable in the Electorate of _Saxony_: I own to you, I lik'd the Country very much, and the Civilities that I had the Honour to receive from the King, made me wish one while for a Place in his Service; but I made no Attempt for it, and very seriously bethought myself of my Journey to _Sicily_.

When I left _Dresden_, I took the Road to MUNICH, to which I made very great Haste, because I was so teiz'd with my old Ailment, for which _La Peronie_ had me under Cure at _Paris_, that I did not care to delay, putting myself into the Hands of a Surgeon: The Person, who undertook me, was no less a Man than the Elector's own Surgeon; who indeed gave me Ease for a few Days, but afterwards I was tormented worse than ever. However, I took the Opportunity of the easy Intervals I enjoy'd from the Surgeon's Remedies to pay my Compliments to the Princes: I accompany'd them in Hunting and other Parties of Pleasure, as if I had been in perfect Health: The Count _de Charolois_, who was still at the Court of _Bavaria_, made an Agreement with the Princes of _Bavaria_, to ride Post to _Saltzbourg_, to see an _Italian_ Opera, which the Archbishop gave there every Year to celebrate his Birth-Day: The _Bavarian_ Princes set out first, and lodged in a paltry Cabaret in the Suburbs, because they had a Mind to be _incog._ The Count _de Charolois_ set out from _Munich_ at 8 o'Clock at Night, with only one Gentleman and myself: We rode all Night, and next Day at 5 in the Evening arriv'd at SALTZBOURG: We alighted at the same Cabaret where the _Bavarian_ Princes were, and went all together to the Opera: It was begun before we came, for which I was not a little sorry, because it was a Piece that was well worth seeing from the Beginning to the End of it: I assure you, _Madame_, that I never saw any thing so extraordinary: The Theatre, the Actors, the Performance were all to the utmost Degree ridiculous! The Opera Room was so low, that the Actors almost touch'd the Ceiling with their Heads: The Singing and Dancing were something comical: What most diverted me were the Interludes, which were _executed_ by the Archbishop's Pages. They consisted of Three Entries: The first was of Shepherds, who were known by their Dress; and they had not only Crooks in their Hands, but Sheep appear'd every now-and-then upon the Scene: The second Entry was of Huntsmen, who had all Hunting Horns; and while these danc'd, some, who mov'd the Machine, made the Skins of Hares stuff'd with Straw skip up and down the Stage: The third was of Fishermen, who carry'd Lines, to which were fasten'd Trouts; others appear'd with Nets full of live Fish, which made a very odd Shew, and was certainly the only one of the Kind: I must not forget to tell you, that, during the Performance, such Complaisance was shewn to all the Spectators, that they were presented with great Silver Goblets full of Wine or Beer to refresh them: The Princes diverted themselves very much with this Piece, and 'twas a long rime before they could get the Archbishop's Opera out of their Heads: For my Part, I can scarce forbear Laughing to this Day, whenever I think on't.

Notwithstanding all that the Princes could do to be _incog._ they were known, and the Archbishop, who was inform'd of their Arrival upon the very Day, immediately sent one of his Gentlemen to invite them to Supper, desiring at the same time to be excus'd for not waiting on them in Person, which he assur'd them he should have done, if he had not been made acquainted, that they were willing to be _incog._ The _Bavarian_ Princes were ready enough to accept of the Archbishop's Supper; and for my own Part, I had so little Hopes of finding any thing that was good in that pitiful Cabaret where we were, that I should have been glad with all my Heart to have been at the Archbishop's Table. But the Count _de Charolois_ would by no means accept of the Invitation, and out of Complaisance to him, the _Bavarian_ Princes refus'd it likewise; however, they paid the Archbishop a Visit, and the Count _de Charolois_ went along with them by the Name of the Count _de Dammartin_; I had also the Honour to accompany them: The Archbishop receiv'd the Princes without any Ceremony, according to their Desire, and they stood all the time of the Visit, which was very short. The Princes return'd to the Inn, where we had a Supper, serv'd up exactly in the _Gout_ of our Opera. Mean time, we had not eaten any thing for 24 Hours; and to refresh us, the first Dish that was brought in was Lobsters and a Sallad, and the next a Leveret, which was not dress'd enough, and therefore we sent it to the Kitchen to be turn'd into a Ragou; but 'tis probable, that our Cook had not Experience enough to make Ragous; for he only put our Leveret in a large Kettle of Water, and boil'd it to a Jelly; and in this Condition it was serv'd up: This insipid Dish was follow'd by a Couple of Ducks and Four Thrushes. Notwithstanding the Scantiness of this Repast, they did not rise from Table till late at Night, and then the Princes of _Bavaria_ went to Bed, but as for the Count _de Charolois_, he would stay in the Place no longer than he had supp'd, and I had the Honour to go off with him. We return'd to _Munich_, but went by the way of _Alten-Ottingen_, in order to see the Treasure that is kept in the Vestry of the miraculous Chapel of the Virgin: This Treasure, which contain'd very fine Things, was inrich'd with Abundance of noble Presents, made by most of the Sovereigns in _Europe_. From thence we set out for _Munich_, where we arriv'd after a Ramble of Three Days and as many Nights, in which we could boast of having travell'd near 40 _German_ Leagues, to see the most scoundrel Opera that could ever be imagin'd.

The Fatigue of this Journey made my Disorder much worse: The Surgeons at _Munich_ even refus'd to take me in hand, and all my Friends advis'd me to make a Tour to _Paris_, where the most able Professors in Arts of all Sorts are more easy to be found. I was very loth to take their Advice, for 'twas high time for me to think of going to my Regiment, and I was afraid, that by a longer Delay I should suffer: At the same time I was so horribly plagued by my Distemper, that I resolv'd to go to _Paris_. But, before I set out, I wrote to the Count _de S----_, to tell him the Condition I was in, tho' I assur'd him that I would stay no longer at _Paris_ than was necessary for my Cure. Whether my Declaration was relish'd or not I can't tell; all that I know for certain is, that I receiv'd no Answer. I was sorry to leave _Munich_, and no doubt, _Madame_, you are surpriz'd to find me going for _Paris_, as it were in spite of my Will, and I assure you, that I made Reflections upon my Indifference for this City, in which I always found so many things to charm me, tho' I was fully sensible, that the Miscarriage I had in all my Undertakings was the thing that made me heartily weary of staying in it.

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