Chapter IX: Appendix: 301 (9)

BILBAO is the Capital of _Biscay_, and the prettiest Town that I saw in _Spain_: Its Walks especially are very beautiful: This City carries on a great Trade in Wool with _Holland_, _England_ and _France_, and there are commonly in its Harbour several Ships of these Three Nations. It was formerly a free Port, which tended very much to the flourishing of its Trade; but _Philip_ V. suppress'd that Franchise, and establish'd a Custom-house, which occasion'd a very great Disturbance. The Country-People, who were those that signaliz'd themselves most for the Preservation of their Privileges, took Arms, and engag'd several of the Citizens to join them: These Rebels committed a Thousand Outrages, kill'd several People, and set Fire to the Houses of such as they suspected had any Concern in the Establishment of the Custom-house: However, the Insurrection was quickly suppress'd, the Authors of the Tumult were seiz'd, and several of the most mutinous were hang'd, which Examples of Justice had an Effect upon the Rabble; but, however, they were dealt with very gently, for this Tumult gave the Government a fair Handle to have depriv'd them of a great many most extraordinary Privileges, and such too, as were in some respect incompatible with the Good of the Public: For Instance, A Native of _Biscay_ cannot be sentenc'd to Death for any Crime whatsoever except High-Treason and Heresy; all their other Crimes, how enormous soever, being only punishable by Imprisonment or the Galleys. _Catalonia_ formerly enjoy'd the same Privileges, till it was depriv'd of them by _Philip_ V. when he reduc'd that Province.

Near _Bilbao_ on a very high Mountain is a miraculous Chapel, which has been mightily inrich'd by the frequent Pilgrimages that have been made to it for a long time past: But of every thing that I saw in it, nothing struck me more than the High Altar: 'Tis only of Wood indeed, without Painting or Gilding, but the Workmanship of it is surprizing, and it may be look'd upon as Art's Master-piece; I have been told, that he, who made this curious Piece of Work, was accus'd of Judaism, and burnt for it, some time after he had finish'd it: But, in good Truth, the Inquisition ought to have pardon'd him, purely for his Ingenuity.

I stay'd longer at _Bilbao_ than I expected: I was every Day in Hopes of finding some Vessel that was going to _Holland_; but at last being tir'd with waiting, I went on board a Merchant-Ship of _Bilbao_ that was bound for _London_, by which means I had a Sight of _England_ sooner than I expected: We had so fair a Wind during the whole Passage, that the Sixth Day after we set Sail, I found myself actually in LONDON[29].

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All the Places we pass'd by in the Way to this famous City form a Prospect beyond any thing whatsoever: Nothing can compare with the beautiful Scene in the Channel, to see the Multitude of Ships continually going up and down on one Side or the other: The noble Shores of the _Thames_, cover'd with magnificent Houses and beautiful Gardens, give a grand Idea of the Riches of _England_: I was pleas'd to see the noble Foundery of Cannon, Bombs and Bullets, and the Dock for the King's Ships, whereof I saw several lying at Anchor, which were all stately Vessels, and worthy of so wealthy a Nation as the _English_. I was above all surpriz'd at the Bulk of one of those Men of War, which they told me was that the Admiral goes on board of when _England_ sends him out to Sea. On the left Side of the _Thames_ also, before one comes to _London_, we see a magnificent Building for the Invalid Sailors: And near this Hospital lie the King's Yatchs, which serve to carry his Majesty and his Court over to _Holland_, when he repairs to his _German_ Dominions: The King's Yatch is very large, and richly carv'd and gilt: From this Place to _London-Bridge_ is nothing to be seen but Ships and Boats continually coming and going, and both Sides of the River are lin'd with Ships at Anchor, which forms a magnificent Shew: I fancy that 'tis impossible for a Foreigner to behold the continual Motion upon this River without Amazement: I shot the famous Bridge of _London_, which, considering the Length of it, and the Tides of Flood and Ebb, to which it is expos'd, ought really to be reckon'd one of the principal Bridges of the World: The Breadth of it is by no means answerable to the Length, and what renders it still narrower is, the Houses and Shops built upon it, which are none of the best, and yield a bad Prospect.

I went ashore near _Whitehall_, which was formerly a magnificent Palace, and the Residence of the Kings of _England_, but had the Misfortune to be consum'd by Fire in the Reign of _William_ III. and _Mary_: What remains of all this Palace is only one great Pavilion of very fine Architecture, which was formerly a Banquetting-house, and is now a Chapel. 'Twas at _Whitehall_ that the unfortunate _Charles_ I. was beheaded, and in the Remains of this Palace the Window is still to be seen, thro' which that Prince pass'd to the Scaffold, that was erected over-against it.

The Palace of _Whitehall_ faces _St. James_'s Park, which is the same to _London_ as the _Thuilleries_ are to _Paris_, tho' the former is much more frequented than the latter; but that which takes off very much from the Pleasure of the Walks is, the Promiscuousness of the Company, Livery-Servants and the Mobility being suffer'd to walk here as well as Persons of Distinction: In the middle of this Park is a spacious noble Canal, which is a very great Ornament to it: The Walks are kept in good Order, and especially that call'd the _Mall_, which is the longest of all: On the Right Hand of this Walk going from _Whitehall_ stands _St. James_'s Palace, which is now the ordinary Residence of the Monarchs of _England_: 'Tis a very ancient Building, which was formerly a Convent, and has still very much the Appearance of one; so that, were it not for the Guards about it, a Stranger would hardly imagine it to be the Palace of a Sovereign Prince: There are Two Entrances to it, one on _St. James_'s Side, and the other towards _Whitehall_, and at each there attends a Company of the Foot-Guards with a Pair of Colours, and of these there are Two that always stand Centry with their Swords drawn. The King of _Great Britain_'s Guard is the sprucest that I ever saw: They are all of a proper Size, but not Soldiers for mere Shew, as they are every where else, those who are admitted being oblig'd to bring Certificates of their Service: They are distinguish'd by the Terms of Life-Guards, the Grenadier-Guards, the Halberdiers and the Foot-Guards: The Life-Guards wear scarlet Cloth lac'd with Gold at all the Seams, and fac'd with blue: They are always booted when they are upon Guard, and dare not be seen without their Boots till they are reliev'd. The Habit of the Horse-Grenadiers is like that of the Life-Guards, but they wear Caps of Sky-blue Cloth, which have the Order of the Garter embroider'd on the Front with Gold and Silver. The Habit of the Halberdiers is somewhat uncommon: They are dress'd after the antique manner in scarlet, with a Lace in the King's Livery, which is of blue Velvet with a broad Gold Lace in the middle; and they wear Caps of black Velvet, adorn'd with white Feathers: The Foot-Guards have red Cloaths with blue Facings: This, _Madame_, was what I observ'd when I made my Entrance into _London_.

I steer'd my Course to _St. Anne_'s Quarter, where I had a Direction to some honest _French_ Refugees: After I had rested a few Days, I took some Measures to make my Appearance at Court, but without Success: The King and his _German_ Court had been so prejudic'd against me by _Madamoiselle de Pollnitz_, that 'twas impossible for me to obtain an Audience of his Majesty. The Princess of _Wales_ was concern'd at my Situation, and so good as to make me a Present, but the _Germans_ who were at Court were, like their Master, shy of me, so that I was fain to content myself with keeping no Company but the _English_, of whom I met with several that I had seen in _France_, and with whom I renew'd my Acquaintance: They us'd me with all the Civility imaginable, and took Care to carry me to the several Quarters of _London_, where there was any thing worth seeing: They first shew'd me _St. Paul_'s Cathedral, which, next to _St. Peter_'s at _Rome_, is the biggest and the most magnificent Church in _Europe_: It was begun after the great Fire of _London_, in the Reign of _Charles_ II. and not finish'd till the Reign of Queen _Anne_: The Outside of the Structure is as magnificent as the Inside: The first thing that presents itself is the Statue of Queen _Anne_ on the right Side of the West-Entrance, which is the Front: She is represented standing upright, as big as the Life, dress'd in the Royal Robes, with a Sceptre in one Hand, and a Globe in the other: Both the Statue and the Pedestal on which it is plac'd are of Marble: But I did not think this Monument answerable to what might have been expected from a Nation so famous as the _English_ for their elegant Taste in the Arts and Sciences: Nor did I judge more favourably of some other Pieces of Sculpture in the Inside of _St. Paul_'s Church, which did not seem to be the Performances of Masters. I thought the Choir by much too small, considering the Bigness of the Nave: The Choir is separated from the Body of the Church by a Balustrade of Wood, resembling a Gate, over which the Organs are plac'd to a disadvantagious View, owing, as I take it, to the Chasms on the Sides: Opposite to the Entrance of the Choir is the Communion-table, fenc'd round with a Balustrade and a Form whereon the Communicants kneel: At the Right Hand of this Table is the Seat of the Archbishop of _Canterbury_, which is rais'd some Steps above the Ground; and over it is a Canopy, like to those of the Catholic Bishops: All round the Choir are little Pews or Stalls like the Boxes in a Play-house, and there the Magistrates usually sit, when they come to the Church in a Body: The Preacher's Pulpit, which is plac'd in the middle of the Choir, is a plain Piece of Work of Wallnut-Wood, and of an octogon Figure, so contriv'd, that one does not see the Stairs by which the Preacher goes up to it: On the Right Hand of the Door of the Choir is a Canopy, and a Seat like to that of the Archbishop of _Canterbury_, which is for the Bishop of _London_.

From _St. Paul_'s I went to see _Westminster_-Abbey, which being in a Part of the Town at a good Distance from _St. Paul_'s, oblig'd me to take a Hackney-Coach: These Vehicles are very common at _London_; but being made without a Spring, are intolerably uneasy: However, they are of excellent Service to rid a great deal of Ground in a little time; for the Horses, which are very good, gallop for most Part, but the Pavement they run upon being the worst in _Europe_, it gives terrible Shocks to those who make Use of this Equipage, as I experienc'd in my Jaunt to the Abbey of _Westminster_. This is the Church in which the Kings of _England_ are consecrated and interr'd: 'Tis a very ancient Pile, without any other Beauty but its Bulk: There is a good Number of Chapels within it, in which are the Tombs of several Kings, Queens, and even of private Persons; but of these there are few worthy of Remark: 'Twas in this Church I saw that call'd _St. Edward_'s Chair, which is of Wood, without any Ornament; and they say, it is the Chair which that Saint made Use of: The Kings are seated in it at the time of their Coronation: On one Side of this Chair is a Press, wherein is preserv'd in Waxwork the Effigy of General _Monk_, who, after the Death of _Cromwell_, restor'd _Charles_ II. to the Throne of his Ancestors. In a Chapel hard by I was shewn another Statue in Waxwork, which represents _Charles_ II. himself as big as the Life, dress'd in his Robes as Knight of the Garter: In the same Chapel I also saw the Waxwork Statue of the Duchess of _Richmond_, in her Habit as Duchess.

In this Church I met With an _English_ Gentleman, an old Friend of mine, who carry'd me to the Parliament-house, where the King was expected that very Day, to put an End to that Session: And really I had not been long there before I saw the King enter in his royal Robes, and the Crown upon his Head: As I was inform'd his Stay there would be short, I went out, and plac'd myself in his Passage, that I might see his Retinue: I saw him go into his Coach, drawn by Eight Horses, attended by his Horse-Guards, and preceded by another Coach, in which sate the principal Officers of the Crown: The King of _England_ never rides with this Attendance, but when he goes to meet his Parliament; for he is generally carry'd in a Sedan, with Six Footmen walking before, and Six Halberdiers, or Yeomen of the Guard, by the Sides of the Chair; while the Officers that are in Waiting commonly follow his Majesty in Coaches, drawn each by a Pair of Horses: The Prince and Princess of _Wales_ are attended, when they go out, much in the same manner: I observ'd a Custom among the Livery-Servants of the King and their Royal Highnesses, which I saw at no other Court, _viz_. That when they are in Waiting, they wear, instead of a Hat, plain Caps of black Velvet, made like the Caps of Running-Footmen.

After I had seen the King pass by, I went and din'd with my Lord ----, whose Brother I had seen in _Spain_: There I spent the Afternoon, and at Night he carry'd me to the Opera, where I was highly pleas'd, not only with the Performers, who were the best Voices in _Europe_, but with the Orchestre, which could not be finer nor better fill'd; yet, for all that, I don't think it comes up to the Opera at _Paris_; for this at _London_ is quite destitute of Dances, or at least when there are any, they are so ill executed, that they are intolerable to Persons of a nice Taste: The Stage-Dresses are indeed much richer than those of the _French_ Actors; but then they are not of that clever Fancy, which the _French_ alone may boast to be their peculiar Perfection: The _English_ Stage has another Defect, and that is, the extreme Want of Performers, for they know nothing of Chorus's, and when the Scene demands the Appearance of any Retinue, 'tis generally compos'd of People that they pick up where they can get them; for which Reason they all look very silly and confus'd: The Place where the Boxes are, is in a manner round: 'Tis small, but very lofty, and I thought the Seats very well laid out: The whole Company sits down, even those in the Pit, in which there are Benches that form an Amphitheatre, which is not very high, but almost of a circular Figure, so that every body faces the Stage: This Place is so well lighted with Wax-Candles, that it dazzles one's Eyes, which is a very great Diminution to the Lustre of the Theatre: The King, who was at the Opera when I was there, sate in a Box on the Right Side of the Stage, without any Distinction, and convers'd all the time with Three Ladies that were in his Box.

Some Days after this I went to the _English_ Comedy: I shall say nothing of the Play that was acted there, because, as I did not understand the Language, I could only judge of it from the Applause that was given to it: The Actors seem'd to be excellent, at least, if I might judge, by their Gesture and Carriage, so that it would be a difficult Matter to find any that appear to better Advantage.

The little Prospect I had of obtaining any Employment at the Court of _England_, and the visible Decay of my Finances, forc'd me to think of departing very soon: Therefore, without Loss of Time, I made my Tours about the City of _London_, in order to see what was most worthy of Remark: I found very fine Courts, and more Squares than in any other City I ever saw, which would have been more magnificent, if they had not been spoil'd by inclosing them with wooden Pales, to convert the Ground within into Gardens. The Houses are commonly very small, most of them have no Courts before them, and there are few that have Gardens: But I must except a good many Hotels or Palaces, that are very magnificent; such as the Duke of _Montague_'s House, which is built in an exquisite Taste: The Court before it is very large and beautiful; and the Garden perfectly answers the Beauty of the Building: The Stair-case is worth seeing by those of the nicest Skill: The Ceiling represents _Phaeton_ asking Leave of the Sun to drive his Chariot, and the Fall of _Phaeton_ is describ'd at the Entrance of the Saloon, just at the Top of the Stair-case: The Apartments on each Side of this Saloon are also very beautiful, and most richly furnish'd.

I went afterwards to see my Lord _Marlborough_'s House, which is very magnificent, and full of Pictures, done by the most able Hands, whereof the greatest Number was by _Vandyke_: After having in like manner taken a View of several other great Houses, of which I don't undertake to give a Description, I was shew'd a Column, which in my Opinion far surpass'd the famous Pillar of _Trajan_: 'Twas the _Monument_, erected in Memory of the terrible Fire that happen'd at _London_, soon after the Restoration of _Charles_ II. to the Throne of _England_: 'Tis pity but this Pillar had more Room to stand in, it being pent up in a pretty close Nook, which is the very Spot where the Fire first broke out: There's a _Latin_ Inscription upon it, shewing all the Circumstances of that sad Misfortune: In the Pedestal of this Monument is a Door, that opens to Stairs cut out in the Pillar, by which People ascend to the Top of it; and in all _London_ there is not a Place from whence there is a more extensive Prospect of the Country, except it be the Cupola of _St. Paul_'s.

Not far from this Monument is that Structure which is call'd the _Royal Exchange_, where the Merchants meet every Week-day from Noon till Two o'clock: 'Tis a very large quadrangular Building, and its principal Front is very magnificent: The Square, where the Merchants meet, is encompass'd with a fine Gallery, supported by great Arches of beautiful Architecture: In the middle of it is a Marble Statue of _Charles_ II. who is represented standing upright, and dress'd in his Royal Robes: In certain Niches over the Arches there are the Statues of the Kings and Queens of _England_, which are all of Stone, and so imperfectly done, that they are a Blemish, rather than an Ornament to the Exchange: Near this Building is another Statue of _Charles_ II. on Horseback, which is a Monument of white Marble, but so ill perform'd, that I believe it would have been better if it had never been put up: The Equestrian Statue of _Charles_ I. erected betwixt the _Haymarket_ and _Whitehall_, which is all of Brass, is much better executed: Good Judges particularly admire the Horse, which is one of the boldest Pieces that is to be seen, and was cast by the same Workman that cast the Horse of _Henry_ IV. at _Paris_; but the Statue of the King was done by another Hand: _Cromwell_, who had no Respect for the Blood of his Sovereign, did not care to have his Statue preserv'd, but caus'd it to be pull'd down, and set to Sale: A Founder, that was a zealous Royalist, purchas'd it, on Pretence that he would melt it down, but, as soon as he had it brought Home, he caus'd it to be bury'd under Ground, where it remain'd till _Charles_ II. was restor'd to the Throne, and then he made a Present of it to that Prince, who caus'd it to be erected on that Pedestal of white Marble which we now see.

A little Distance from the _Exchange_ is the famous Tower of _London_, which is of the same Use to this City as the _Bastille_ is to _Paris_, with this Difference however, that 'tis not so easy for a King of _England_ to store it, as it is for a King of _France_ to fill the _Bastille_: This Tower is properly speaking a Citadel, form'd of a Number of Houses, surrounded with Fortifications: Here is the Arsenal, which is the best furnish'd, and kept in the best Condition of any in _Europe_: In this Tower are also preserv'd the Ornaments and Treasury of the Crown: The principal Pieces are 1. The Crown of _Edward the Confessor_, with which the Kings of _England_ are crown'd: 'Tis of solid Gold, set with Diamonds and other precious Stones. 2. The Crown of State, which the King wears when he meets the Parliament: It has a remarkable Pearl, an Emerald, and a Ruby upon it, so large, that the Value of them is not to be estimated: After I had seen this Crown, I was shew'd that which serv'd for the Coronation of Q. _Mary_, the Daughter of _James_ II. 'Tis cover'd all over with Diamonds, admirable both for their Size and Beauty: Then I saw the Prince of _Wales_'s Crown, which is all over plain, without any Jewels; and besides these, I had the Sight of many other rich Things, of which I don't pretend to give you the Particulars: I will only add, that the Method of exposing them to View is very well contriv'd, to prevent their being stole; for they are only seen thro' a large Iron Grate, so strong, that it would be a hard Matter to force it.

After I had seen the Treasury, I was carry'd into another Room, where I saw all the Statues of the Kings of _England_, from _William the Conqueror_, Duke of _Normandy_, to _James_ II. They are represented in Armour, and on Horseback, but the whole is of Wood colour'd, which makes them frightful Objects.

As you might happen to think me tedious if I were to be more particular, I chuse to pass over many things in Silence, and shall only say a Word or two of the Character of the _English_ People: I thought _Englishmen_ were much the same in their own Country as the _French_ are out of _France_, that is to say, haughty, scornful, and such as think nothing good enough; and in like manner they are when abroad, what the _French_ are in their own Country, good-natur'd, civil and affable: Of all Nations I found the _Italians_ were most esteem'd in _England_, the _French_ and _Germans_ being in some Degree hated: But their Hatred to the _Germans_ is of no older Date than the Reign of the Elector of _Hanover_; for till then the _English_ look'd upon us as if they neither lov'd nor envy'd us, but now they have a Notion, that the Money of _England_ goes over to _Germany_; and seem to think, that we had no Coin, till they call'd the House of _Hanover_ to govern them[30]. As to their Hatred of the _French_, 'tis of a longer standing, insomuch that it would be a difficult Task to determine the Age of it; and I am apt to think, it runs in their Blood; for the Antipathy extends even to the minutest Things; for Example, in the Article of Dress; when the _French_ wear little Hats, the _English_ wear theirs with monstrous broad Brims; and when they know that great Hats are worn in _France_, they reduce the Brims of theirs till they are as much too narrow; and 'tis the very same case with regard to the rest of their Dress; so that I am persuaded, the _English_ would soon quit any Fashion, were it ever so becoming and elegant, if once the _French_ thought fit to follow it[31]. But how changeable soever they are in their Fashions, as well as the _French_, yet they have not the Fancy which the latter are remarkable for, and know not how to dress to Advantage; for, in short, there's not a People upon Earth that set themselves off so ill as the _English_ do, and really they had need to be as well-shap'd as they are for the Generality, or their Dress would be insupportable.

The _English_ Women are also perfectly well-shap'd, and are for most part pretty, and very agreeable Companions; but, like the Men, they han't the Art of Dress; and tho' they are always very neat in their Cloaths, yet they have such an odd way of putting them on, as if they endeavour'd to disfigure themselves: When they go out in a Deshabille, they commonly put on a Camblet Cloak as long as their Petticoats, which is clos'd before, and on each Side there is a Slit, thro' which they put their Arms: They have withal a Hood of the same Stuff as the Cloak, which is tied under the Chin with a colour'd Ribbon[32]. Nor is this Dress unbecoming to the Sex, for 'tis very often us'd by the Citizens Wives and Daughters, and is also much worn among the gay Ladies, when they go upon Intrigues with their Lovers; at which time they repair thus rigg'd on board certain Wherries, that carry them to Houses of Entertainment design'd for such Interviews; the very Boats too seem to be made to the Purpose, being cover'd with scarlet Cloth, or very neat Stuffs, and the Watermen being us'd to the Business, manage it as well as the Gondoliers of _Venice_.

That amiable Freedom which reigns in _England_ gives the People an Air of Gaiety that is to be met with no where else so universally: The Nobility, the Citizens, and the lower Rank of People have all their Recreations; and whereas in other Countries the Rich alone seem to have a Right to Pleasures, the _English_ Nation has Diversions for all Classes; and the Mechanic, as well as his Lordship, knows how to make himself merry, when he has done his Day's Work. The _English_ are very much for Shows; Battles especially, of what nature soever, are an agreeable Amusement to them, and of these they have all Kinds: Sometimes they engage Bulls with other Beasts, and at other times they have Cock-fighting: You have undoubtedly heard talk, how these little Animals will fight: The Cocks of _England_ are the best in the World for this Sport, that being a Species, of which there is not the like in other Countries: Their Bill is very long, and when they have once begun to fight, they battle it with such Fury, that one, if not both, is generally left dead upon the Spot. Before they are exposed in the Pit where they are to engage, little Spurs are fasten'd to their Feet, with which those Animals gall each other dextrously: The _English_, who are no indifferent Spectators of the Engagement, form themselves immediately into several Parties in Favour of the Combatants; and, according to the Custom of their Country, lay considerable Wagers; for, it must be observ'd, there is no Nation in the World so fond of laying Wagers as the _English_.

The Battles of Animals are not the only ones to be seen in _England_, there being very often Combats of Gladiators, when the Wretches for pitiful Lucre fight with one another at Swords, and very often wound each other cruelly: The _English_ delight very much in this sort of Prize-fighting: They shout loud Applauses when either of the Two wounds his Antagonist, and when the Battle is over, the Two Combatants shake Hands, and make each other a low Bow, to shew they don't bear one another any Malice: I can't conceive how they find any Fellows to take up such an Exercise; the rather, because 'tis liable to very fatal Consequences; for they say, that by their Laws, he who wounds his Adversary, shall be at the Expence of curing him, and he that kills him, is to be hang'd without Mercy.

There's another sort of Prize-fighters, who fight every Evening in the Summer in a Square near _St. James_'s, with no other Weapons but Quarter-staves, or wooden Swords, with which they break one another's Ribs, or knock one another on the Head, and the Victor is generally regal'd by some or other of the Spectators. I have also seen, as I have been going over the Square, a pack of Wrestlers, that endeavour'd to throw one another down, and when one of the Two has tripp'd up his Adversary's Heels, he politely gave him his Hand to help him up again: At all these Performances considerable Wagers are laid, as I have already had the Honour to tell you.

After having seen every thing at _London_ worth a Stranger's Curiosity, I was prevail'd on, before I left _England_, to go and take a View of the Royal Palaces in the Country: I saw _Hampton Court_ and _Windsor_, which are Two magnificent Palaces, yet Trifles in comparison with the Royal Palaces of _France_: _Kensington_ Palace pleas'd me well enough: 'Tis a House that formerly belong'd to an _English_ Nobleman, of whom King _William_ bought it, because 'twas so near _London_: They were making some Alterations at it when I was there: The King's Apartment is very spacious, but not the most magnificent, and 'tis adorn'd with some Paintings by _Vandyke_, which are of uncommon Beauty; One of these Pictures represents King _Charles_ I. on Horseback, and in another are his Queen, her Waiting-women and all her Children: I never saw any thing better done than these Two Pieces are. _Kensington_ Gardens would be very fine for a private Person, but for a King, methinks I could wish them to be somewhat more magnificent.

Having finish'd my Travels in _England_, where I stay'd near a Month, with a View of the Royal Palaces, I embark'd for _Holland_; but had not a quick Passage, by reason of a Calm, that surpriz'd us at Sea, so that we could neither go forwards nor backwards: At length, in Five Days after we had left _London_, we arriv'd in the Mouth of the _Maese_, where we bore a hard Gale of Wind, which blew all Night: Next Day we got safe into the _Maese_, and by Noon came to _Rotterdam_, from whence I set out the same Day for the HAGUE.

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As soon as I arriv'd there I thought of renewing my Wardrobe, and refitting my Equipage. Tho' all this would not come to a great deal, yet being then very short of Money, I was forc'd to go a borrowing: I therefore gave Letters of Attorny to my Creditors, to receive an Annuity which came to me from my Family, and of which I shar'd one Third with my Brother, and _Madamoiselle de Pollnitz_. As my Brother and I were Minors when my Grandmother left us that Annuity, _Madamoiselle de Pollnitz_ being the eldest of the Family, qualify'd herself to receive it: She was first paid the whole upon her own Receipts, but afterwards she gave each of us our Share, which she all along continued to do ever since I was of Age: My Creditors were glad to accept of the Powers which I delegated to them, but, for their greater Security, they desir'd me to make myself sure and certain that _Madamoiselle de Pollnitz_ would punctually pay them: I wrote immediately, and desir'd them to write to her likewise; but as my good Cousin was never a hearty Friend to me, she thought fit to thwart me in the Expedient I had contriv'd to raise Money: Instead of doing me the Honour to write me an Answer, she wrote to my Creditors, to caution them to be upon their Guard; that I only meant to cheat them, that I had no Share in any such Annuity, and that every Word I had told them about it was a Lye. My Creditors were somewhat startled at this Intelligence, and imagin'd that they had to do with a Knave, who only intended to bilk them, and that they should be left without Remedy if I once gave them the Slip: I did every thing on my Part to make them easy; I told them that _Madamoiselle de Pollnitz_ had conceal'd the Truth from them, on Purpose to involve me in Trouble; and that I would engage she should retract the Letters she had sent them: Besides this, I offer'd to pay them out of the Income of my own Estate: But all I could say to them signify'd nothing; their Jealousy had taken deep Root, and they resolv'd, in order to secure their Debts, to arrest me: And so they actually did; for one _Sunday_ Morning I was accosted by some ill-favour'd Companions, who desir'd me to remove with a good Grace to the Prisons at the _Hague_, if I did not like to be carry'd thither by Force. I was a little confounded at such a Visit, and saw that I must instantly lose my Liberty, and perhaps for a long time too, when _Madame Pyll_, a Tradeswoman at the _Hague_, to whom I was already indebted, was so kind as to advance me what was necessary to pay my Creditors; by which means I got out of the Clutches of those impertinent Fellows.

Not many Days after this happen'd, other Creditors being inform'd of it, imagin'd that the only infallible Method for their being paid was, to take the same Course with me, and they also resolv'd to arrest me: Accordingly, Notice was brought to me at 6 o'Clock in the Morning, that 'twas apprehended there was a Design form'd against me, and that some Serjeants were sauntring about to nab me: I had my Breeches on indeed, but nothing more than a Night-gown; and not caring to take the Trouble of dressing myself intirely, especially as I knew that there were not many People stirring at the _Hague_ at that time, I thought it best to steal off in my Night-gown: I made my Escape to the House of my dear _Madame Pyll_: I could have wish'd this good Woman would have once more pacify'd those ravenous Hounds, but I had not the Assurance to mention it to her; and only desir'd she would give me Shelter for a little while, which she granted with Pleasure: But I was soon under a Necessity of shifting my Quarters, for the Catch-Polls being inform'd where I was harbour'd, were actually coming to take me, when this honest Woman help'd me to slip out at the Back-door, and lent me a Cloak, in which having muffled myself up, I had nothing to think of but how to get away from the _Hague_: I put myself on board the _Delft_ Passage-Boat, and went in quest of _Texera_, a rich _Portuguese_, who had a House half a League from the _Hague_. We were such good Friends, that I was persuaded he would not abandon me in the Situation he found me in: And indeed, with all the Generosity possible, he advanc'd me what Money I wanted, and had me conducted to _Honslaerdyk_, where I stay'd Two Days in the Castle: My Keeper happen'd to be one that was Waiting-woman to my late Mother, who did me all the Services she was capable of, and went and acquainted _Pyll_ where I was; upon which she came to see me, and brought me my Cloaths: I then consider'd what I had to do next: I had a great mind to return to the _Hague_, to treat with the Creditors who prosecuted me; but considering, that perhaps as soon as I had made these easy, others would give me fresh Trouble, I resolv'd to go to _Germany_, where I should be nearer at hand to write to my Family for the settling of my Affairs; for I was still under a Prohibition to go to _Berlin_; tho' why I was thus forbid to go to my own native Place, I knew not.

I went the Road to _Aix la Chapelle_, in Hopes that I should there find the Count _de L----_, to whom I had lent 400 Ducats 7 or 8 Years ago. He was then in the Service of the Elector Palatine, and I was assur'd that he was in waiting about _Aix_. The first Day I went to _Dort_, and from thence to BOIS LE DUC.

This is a pretty considerable Place in _Dutch Brabant_: 'Tis encompass'd all round with Marshes, and may easily be laid under Water for several Leagues round, which makes it one of the strongest Places in _Europe_: 'Twas _Henry_ of _Brabant_ that gave it the Name of _Bois le Duc_, or _Bolduc_, i. e. the _Duke's Wood_, because he directed the Building of it in 1171, in the same Place where he caus'd a Wood to be cut down.

At _Bois le Duc_ I went into the _Diligence_, which is the Name of the Stage-Coach that goes to MASTRICHT: I made an Acquaintance in it with an _English_ Gentleman that was going to _Aix la Chapelle_, to make use of the Waters: He came directly from _England_, and being, as 'tis probable, over-burden'd with his Guineas, he was at every turn exclaiming against the Cheapness of every thing on this Side of the Water: But a little Adventure he was engag'd in at _Mastricht_ alter'd his Opinion: He went out all alone the very Night we came thither, with a Design, he said, to take a little Walk about the Town; and in his Ramble he met with a very amiable young Creature upon the great Square, with whom he enter'd into a Conversation: After having parley'd with her some time, he offer'd to wait upon her to her Lodgings, and she was not so unsociable, but she accepted of his Proposal: My _Englishman_ thought himself a happy Mortal, and the Damsel appear'd so amiable in his Eyes, that he begg'd her Permission when he was at her Quarters to treat her with some Refreshments: When they had empty'd some Bottles, and the _Englishman_ was ready to take his Leave, he threw down a Guinea, and thought he paid full enough, but the Damsel demanded another: The Gentleman scrupled to give it, and insisted upon it with some Warmth, that a Guinea was sufficient in all Conscience to discharge the Expence he had put her to: No doubt he should have paid more Respect to such civil Company. The offended Damsel call'd the Landlady, who fell upon the poor _Englishman_ like a mad Woman: These Two were join'd by a Third Fury, who all together pummell'd the _Englishman_ soundly, tore his Cravat, and turn'd him out of Doors without so much as giving him his Perriwig: To complete his Misfortune, it rain'd as hard as it could pour, and the Night was so dark, that he could not see which way to steer his Course: He knew not who to ask for; and besides, he had forgot both the Inn, and the Name of the Street where we lodg'd: At last, being quite weary of running up and down the Streets so long, he took it into his Head to knock at every Door, from whence he met with no Return but hard Names: While he was rapping at one Door, he was surpriz'd by the Patroll, who carry'd him to the Watch-house: It was well for him that the Officer upon Guard was not an ill-natur'd Man, for he had the Patience to hear him give a very confus'd Description of the Inn, of which he had absolutely forgot the Name; and upon his saying that there were several other Inns in the same Street where his was, they guess'd pretty near where-abouts it was: Then the Officer lent him a Cloak, and having given him a Watchman to go along with him, they thundred at the Doors of several Inns, which not being the Inn that they wanted, there would certainly have been some Uproar, if it had not been for the Watchman that the _Englishman_ had to attend him: At last, as they were still wandring about in quest of the Inn which neither of them knew any thing of, the _Englishman_'s Lacquey, who was seeking his Master, met him, and carried him to his Quarters: You must know, that this Adventure made it a very disagreeable Night to me; for being extremely tired, I went to Bed as soon as I had supp'd, and the _Englishman_ being to lie in my Chamber, his Lacquey, who staid up there for him, disturb'd me sadly; for when he saw 'twas late, and that his Master was not return'd, he came every now-and-then to my Bed-side, and wak'd me to know what he should do; so that, to get rid of him, I advis'd him at last to turn out, and look for him. As soon as they came into the Room, I was forc'd to undergo the Penance of hearing the whole Story of his Adventure: The Lacquey was in a terrible Wrath with the honest People that had insulted his Master, and he propos'd to go out that Moment, and break open the Doors, and turn the House out of the Windows; but the Master having more Wit in his Anger, thought it best to bear his Disgrace with Patience, and to rest his Bones after so much Fatigue.

* * * * *

We set out next Day for _Aix la Chapelle_; but the Count _de L----_ whom I thought to have found there, was at that time in the _Palatinate_, and therefore having nothing to do at _Aix_, I took Leave of my _Englishman_, and proceeded in my Journey towards _Cologne_: As soon as I came thither, I fell ill of a Fever, nevertheless I push'd on, and was preparing to go up the _Rhine_, but when I came to ANDERNACH, a little Town in the Dominions of _Cologne_, I found myself so ill, that I was absolutely oblig'd to stop: Mean time my Fever prov'd a continual one, and I was in a Place where I could not expect much Relief: The Mistress of the House where I was told me, that there was an able Physician some Leagues from _Andernach_, upon which I jogg'd on thither as well as I could, and in a Fortnight's time my Fever left me: Some Days after this I propos'd going towards _Mentz_, but when I came to _Coblentz_, I found myself worse than ever, and not being willing to change my Doctor, I return'd down the _Rhine_, and went to spend another Fortnight with the Man that had cur'd me before: Nevertheless, my Distemper grew worse, and even affected my Mind so much, that I imagin'd I should never be cur'd where I was: I had withal conceiv'd such a mortal Aversion to my Doctor, that I could no longer bear the Sight of him; and fancy'd that a Physician of _Cologne_, whom I knew, was the only Man that could cure me, for which Reason I was wonderfully impatient to go to _Cologne_; and notwithstanding all the Arguments of my Doctor to convince me that in the Condition which I was then in it would be Death for me to undertake a Voyage, yet I embark'd in a Vessel, and went down the _Rhine_: When I arriv'd at _Cologne_, I put myself with Confidence under the Care of the Physician of whom I had such an Opinion, and after having taken his Drugs about Two Days, whether it was owing to their Virtue, or to the Force of my Imagination, the Fever visibly diminish'd, and at last quite left me.

When I was perfectly recover'd, I went up the _Rhine_ again to _Mentz_, where I hop'd to have found my Cousins; but I was told, that they were at their Estate in _Franconia_: This unlucky Absence of theirs perplex'd me very much, and what to do now I could not tell: I chose to go to _Zell_, where my Brother liv'd, and by good Luck I met with a Coach that was going to _Hanover_: From _Hanover_ I went to _Zell_, where I heard that my Brother was at _Berlin_, and I resolv'd to advance that way; but lest I might be known, instead of going to the Neighbourhood of _Berlin_, I repair'd to _Leipsic_, from whence I wrote to my Agent to know how Things went, and if there were any Hopes of settling my Affairs: He sent me Answer, that there was no Probability of it as long as my Estate remain'd under a Sequestration; that indeed a Loan of Money would enable me to obtain a Replevy by compounding with my Creditors; but that he did not see how it was possible to borrow any Money, unless _Madamoiselle de Pollnitz_, to whom my Estate was entail'd, would consent to it: He concluded with telling me, that he knew of no other Method to get me out of this Difficulty, than to obtain an Order from the King of _Prussia_. I knew as well as he, that such an Order was the most expeditious Method to bring me out of Trouble; but how could I obtain it, when I was not permitted so much as to appear at Court? However, I thought it my Duty to leave no Stone unturn'd this Bout for obtaining such Permission, tho' I had been deny'd it several times. I resolv'd to implore the Protection of the Prince of _Anhalt-Dessau_, who had always given me Proofs of his Kindness, as had also the Princesses his Sisters.

* * * * *

I went therefore to DESSAU, which is but Six Leagues from _Leipsick_: At that time none were there but the Princesses, for the Prince had been absent several Days, and was not expected till the Night following: I wrote to _Madame_ the Duchess of _Radzivil_, the Eldest of the Princesses, to desire that she would stand my Friend with the Prince her Brother: This Princess was so good as to send me one of her Officers to assure me that she would do every thing in her Power to prevail on the Prince to protect me; and she even desir'd me to write a Letter to the Prince, which she promis'd me to deliver to him with her own Hands: I laid hold on the Princess's kind Offer, sent her the Letter she desired of me, and as soon as the Prince was return'd, she had the Goodness to deliver it to him: I hop'd to carry all my Points after such a Recommendation; yet so far was I from seeing the Effect which I expected, that the Prince desir'd his Sister to engage me to make the best of my way out of _Dessau_, because if I staid there any longer, he should be oblig'd to put me under an Arrest: The Duchess, when she sent me this Message, was so kind as to sweeten it with one of the civillest Compliments that could be, and made me an Offer of Money, imagining, to be sure, that in the Condition I was in, I might have need of it: I most humbly thank'd her for all the Marks of Kindness with which she was pleas'd to honour me, and desir'd her to be assur'd, that I would that Instant pray Obedience to the Prince's Orders: And indeed, as I knew that with this Prince Execution follow'd close at the Heels of his Menaces, I speedily made an Enquiry for a Coach to carry me to _Barbi_, which is the Residence of a Duke of _Saxony_ of the Branch of _Weissenfels_, where I hop'd to meet with a Friend of mine, who was in that Prince's Service; but 'twas impossible for me to find either Horse or Coach in all _Dessau_, for nobody would stir by reason of the Sacredness of the Day, it being the Fourth _Sunday_ in _Advent_: Mean time, as I still dreaded the Prince's Anger, I resolv'd to set out on Foot: I made a Man shoulder my Portmanteau, which was then all my Equipage, and went with him to a little Town in the Duchy of _Magdebourg_, where I took a Chaise that carry'd me to BARBI.

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I there found the Friend that I wanted, who receiv'd me as well as I could wish: This was the late Baron _de Chalisac_ whom you knew; but he did not fail to chide me a little, for letting my Affairs run into such Confusion; and advis'd me to go to my Brother, and concert proper Measures with him for the Advantage of both of us: He also lent me 40 Crowns for my Journey: I spent the _Christmas_-Holidays with him, during which he heard, that my Brother was return'd to ZELL: I was very glad of this News, and next Day after the Holidays I set out to meet him: I found him in a very good Humour with me: He convinc'd me, that I had Reason to suspect my Steward, and advis'd me at the same time to turn him off, and to take his in his Room, whom he knew to be honest: I gave him full Power to examine my Steward's Accompts, and he made it out as clear as the Sun at Noon-day, that I had been bubbled: My Brother, in order to oblige me thoroughly, help'd me to some Money, and moreover, put my Affairs in such a State, that my Creditors might not only be satisfy'd in a little time, but I had something left over-and-above to subsist me.

My Affairs being thus settled, I had nothing to think of now but which way to steer my Course, to the end it might be said at least, that I had some sort of Business or other: I could have lik'd the Service well enough, but there was no War, nor none like to be very soon: Moreover, I had paid my Court with so little Success to different Sovereigns, that indeed I was under no Temptation to enter the Lists again: I might indeed have return'd to _Spain_, where I had obtain'd an Employ, but what signify'd it, where the Salaries are not paid, and the Establishment obliges one to spend high? This Fluctuation of different Ideas puzzled me the more, because which way soever I look'd, I saw nothing but Difficulty, and not the least Glimpse of any other Condition that I could embrace: One Friend advis'd me to take Orders in the Church, which was a Proposition that I thought at first a little extraordinary; yet when I had seriously consider'd the Matter, I judg'd it would not be so wrong a Step as I imagin'd; that sooner or later I should not fail of having some Preferment: In a Word, a Number of temporal Motives gave Birth to a Project in my Mind, which ought only to have been the Effect of a Spiritual Call: I was advis'd first of all to make my Court to the Cardinal of _Saxe_, who was at _Ratisbon_: This Prince, who from a _Lutheran_ turn'd _Roman-Catholic_, was very fond of new Converts.

I went therefore to find out his Eminency at _Ratisbon_: My Brother accompany'd me as far as _Brunswick_, where we stay'd some Days, after which he took Leave of me, and return'd to _Zell_; and I for my Part went to _Barbi_, to see the Baron _de Chalisac_ to whom I gave an Account of the Settlement I had made with my Brother, and of my Resolution to think now of the main Chance: He was overjoy'd to find me in such a Disposition; and after I had spent a few Days with him, I proceeded to _Zeitz_, by the way of _Leipsick_.

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