Chapter VI: Appendix: 301 (6)

[21]BOLOGNA is an Archbishoprick, and the second in the Ecclesiastical State: 'Tis commonly call'd _Bologna the Fat_, because of its fruitful Soil. 'Twas heretofore independent of the Holy See, and had very advantagious Terms for submitting to it. It has a Right, among Others, of having always at _Rome_ an Auditor pf the _Rota_, and an Ambassador; which is punctually observ'd: And the Pope, on his Part, has a Legate here, who is always a Cardinal, and lodges in the Palace, which indeed is ancient, but very spacious, and the Apartments are conveniently distributed. Over the Portico of this Palace is a Statue of Brass erected to the Honour of _Gregory_ XIII. which is look'd upon as a Master-piece of Art, and weighs, as they say, 11,000 Pound; and on one Side of it is another of _Boniface_ VIII. which is not a bad one.

As to the Manners of the Inhabitants of _Bologna_, I cannot but speak in Praise of them: They have all the Civility and Regard to Foreigners that one can wish for. There is Abundance of Gentry here, who live with more Grandeur and Freedom than in any other Part of _Italy_; and, to say all that I think of this City in one Word, if I were to settle in _Italy_, 'tis the only Town I would chuse to live in.

After some Stay here, I set out for _Venice_, in a Boat call'd _The Messenger_, which goes off from _Bologna_ every Morning, or at least several times in a Week: 'Tis the most detestable Vessel that a Gentleman can be stow'd in; but you must go with that or none. We had not gone far, but, when we were still some Miles from _Ferrara_, we found the Water was too shallow, so that every Soul in the Boat was forc'd to go ashore, where we put our Baggage into Waggons, and our Persons into a sort of Coach, almost like the Stage-Coaches of _France_. The Outside of this Vehicle was so unpromising, that I profess I was very loth to get within it; besides, the Coachman seem'd to be fuddled, and his Horses being very sprightly, requir'd the Driver to be in his sober Senses. Nevertheless, having at that Time no other Way to proceed but to trust myself in that Carriage, or to foot it all the rest of the Journey, I did as others did, and we all ventur'd boldly into the Coach. We set out with such a Pace as made me terribly uneasy all the Way; yet our Coachman drove cleverly thro' the most difficult Places, and carry'd us safe to _Ferrara_: But we had scarce enter'd that City, when our Charioteer, 'tis like to shew his Skill, made his Horses double their Pace just as we were to turn into a Street; whereupon they ran with such Fury, that, turning a little too short, one of the Wheels behind passing over a high Bank, our Coach overturn'd so suddenly, that the two Persons who sat next the Door were kill'd on the Spot, and the others dangerously wounded. For my own Part, I came off with a Blow on my Head, which made me have a swell'd Face for Seven or Eight Days. My _Valet de Chambre_, who sat over-against me, had his Wrist put out of Joint: And, in short, out of Eight of us that were in Company, there was not one but had some Harm. What surpriz'd me more than any thing was, that I had the least, which, perhaps, is the first time that I ever met with a Companion that came off worse than myself. I could have wish'd to have walk'd about _Ferrara_[22], but my swell'd Face hinder'd me; and therefore, without Loss of Time, I put my Baggage on board a Vessel which carry'd me to VENICE[23], where I arriv'd at Midnight.

I kept my Chamber for some Days, till I was recovered of my Fall, and then took a Tour about the several Parts of the City, sometimes in the Gondola, and at other times on Foot. The former Method of Travelling, tho' very pleasant, is apt to frighten such as are not us'd to it, who often think themselves in danger of drowning, especially at the Turnings out of one Street into another; for then one would think the Boat was ready to be swallow'd up in the Canal; which indeed might very well be the Case with Boatmen of less Understanding than the Gondoliers of _Venice_; but these are so dexterous that one never hears of any Misfortune.

The first Thing I went to see was the famous Church dedicated to _St. Mark_, the Protector of the Republic. The Front is adorn'd with Five Portico's, of which the middle one is bigger and more spacious than the others. On the Top of it there are Four Horses of Brass, said to have formerly belong'd to a Chariot of the Sun, that serv'd for an Ornament to the Triumphal Arch which the Senate of _Rome_ caus'd to be erected for the Emperor _Nero_, after the Victory he gain'd over the _Parthians_. The Emperor _Constantine_ caus'd them to be remov'd afterwards to _Constantinople_, but the _Venetians_ brought them back again, after they had made themselves Masters of that City. Besides these Four Horses, the Front of the Church is adorn'd with other Statues. The Roof consists of several Domes, over which there are very fine Crosses. The Inside of the Church is truly magnificent: The Walls are lin'd throughout with Marble; the Pavement is also of Marble of perfect _Mosaic_ Workmanship; and the Roof is lin'd in the same manner.

From thence I went to the Palace of the Doge, the Architecture of which I took to be very irregular. The Hall where the Nobles meet, is a prodigious large Room: The Doge's Throne, which is plac'd at one End of it, is higher than the rest by some Steps: There the Nobles sit upon Benches fronting the Throne, which form Eleven Rows, or Walks, wide enough for a Person to pass easily between them: The Throne and the Seats of the Nobles are very plain: The Beauty of this Room consists intirely in Pictures that are worth seeing: There is one that represents the Taking of _Constantinople_ by the _Venetians_; and on the other Side is the History of Pope _Alexander_ III. and of the Emperor _Frederic Barbarossa_, with the Pictures of the several Doges.

There is a large Square call'd _The Broglio_, before the Doge's Palace, where the Nobles commonly take the Air; and tho' there be no Covering to it, nor any Verdure, yet 'tis very pleasant because of the Neighbourhood of the Sea, the Prospect of which is boundless and most delightful. The Resort of Ships, Galleys, and Gondolas, continually coming in and out here, affords another Scene, which is the more amusing because of its Variety. Besides this, one has the Pleasure too of discovering several little Islands that are said to be inhabited by none but Fryars, who have magnificent Churches and Convents there. At that End of this Square, next to the great Canal, there are Two fine Pillars of Marble; on one of which are the Arms of the Republic, _viz._ a Winged Lyon; and on the second is the Statue of _St. Theodore_, the ancient Patron of the Republic.

I had not the Honour of seeing the Doge, and therefore shall say nothing of him, only that he seems to me but an imaginary Prince, and in Effect no more than the First Slave of the Republic. All the Lustre he has, is to be at the Head of the Senate and the Nobles in all the Assemblies and Ceremonies; for the rest, his Credit, if he may be said to have any, is extremely bounded. The Ceremony in which he appears with all his Splendor, is that which is perform'd every Year at _Venice_, upon Ascention-Day: Then the Doge, at the Head of the Senate and all the Nobility, goes on board a stately Vessel call'd the _Bucentaure_; and when he is advanc'd a little way into the Gulph, he throws a Gold Ring into the Sea, and says, _We marry thee, O Sea, in Token of that True and Perpetual Dominion which the Republic has over Thee_. And indeed, the _Venetians_ look upon the _Adriatic Sea_ as their peculiar Property.

The _Venetian_ Nobles are as scrupulous in Matters of State, as the modern _Romans_ are in those of Ceremony; insomuch that they break off all Correspondence with any Man that keeps Company with an Ambassador; of which I myself had Experience. As I had known _M. de Q----_ at the King of _England_'s Court at _Hanover_, and _M. G----_ at the Court of _Vienna_, I thought that when I saw them return'd to _Venice_, I could not do better than to pay them a Visit, in order to be introduc'd into good Families. I went to them accordingly, and was receiv'd with all possible Civility by those Gentlemen, who next Day return'd my Visit, when I observ'd in the Course of the Conversation, which was not very long, that Notice had been taken of my being so often at the House of the Imperial Ambassador; and I, for my own Part, gave them to understand, that I was not dispos'd to make a Sacrifice of the Ambassador's Family in Compliment to them. The Person who then resided there with that Character was the Count _de Colloredo_, at whose House there was an Assembly every Night of all the Foreigners of most Distinction at _Venice_. He had with him the Countess of _Colloredo_, whom, no doubt, you have seen at the House of her Brother _M. de Blaspiel_, when she was the Widow of the Count _de Collonitz_. The Ambassador and his Lady were perfectly complaisant to all Persons that came to their House, and there was every Day very good Company. I made an Aquaintance there with the Marchioness _de R----_, Daughter of the celebrated _Madame de M----_. This Lady had left the Court of _France_ and her Family, and, after having travell'd thro' several Countries, came and settled at _Venice_. I confess I was heartily concern'd to see a Lady, who must have been very amiable in her Time, reduc'd, by a natural Uneasiness of her Temper, which perhaps too was Hereditary, to lead so strolling a Life.

While I stay'd at _Venice_, the Hereditary Prince of _Modena_ came and spent a few Days there. The _Venetians_ made several Entertainments for him, which gave me the Pleasure of seeing the _Venetian_ Ladies in all their Dresses, or else I should have gone away without seeing one of them; for the Jealousy of their Husbands confines them almost always within Doors, so that 'tis impossible to see them, but in the Time of the Carnival, or on some Days of Festival. While the Prince of _Modena_ stay'd at _Venice_, there was a sort of Carnival, which gave the Town an Air of Gaiety that is not common to it. I was surpriz'd at the magnificent Dresses of the Ladies, especially at the Number of their Jewels; for as to the rest of their Habit, there was something odd in it, as there is always in the Dress of the _Italians_. They were very constant at the Balls which were made for that Prince, who could not fail of being pleas'd to see how fond the Republic was to caress him. They also entertain'd him with a Diversion call'd the _Regatte_, which is a Contention of small Vessels to out-sail one another, and makes a very pleasant Shew. They are divided into Four little Squadrons, which are distinguish'd from one another by little Flags or Streamers of several Colours, and every Squadron is conducted by a great Bark richly gilded and adorn'd with very fine Paintings. The Seamen who are on board these Vessels, are always dress'd after a very gallant Manner: These Squadrons strive which shall gain the Prize appointed for that which arrives first at the Mark. The Prince of _Modena_ seem'd to be mightily delighted with the Entertainment. In a few Days after it, he set out from _Venice_. I thought also of proceeding in my Travels thro' _Italy_, and went to _Padua_ with the same Gondoliers that had serv'd me while I stay'd at _Venice_.

* * * * *

[24]PADUA is an Episcopal City, famous for its University; and more ancient, they say, than _Rome_ and _Venice_. 'Tis thought to have been founded by _Antenor_ the _Trojan_ Prince, whose Tomb is still to be seen there. Its Soil is extremely fertile, and from thence came the Proverb, _Bologne la Grasse, mais Padoue la passe_, i. e. _Bologne_ the _Fat_, but _Padua_ the _Fatter_. As to the outside Appearance of the Town, I took such a cursory View of it indeed, that what I saw of it gave me no great Idea of it; for where-ever I came, every thing had a very dirty Hue: The Pavement was much out of Order, and the Houses of a despicable Taste; but I thought the Churches of _St. Anthony_ and _St. Justina_ really magnificent.

The first, where lies the Body of _St. Anthony_, is fac'd with _Basso-Relievo's_ of white Marble, representing the principal Miracles wrought by that Saint. The Altar is richly adorn'd, and illuminated with Thirty-nine great Silver Lamps that burn Night and Day.

_St. Justina_'s Church, tho' far inferior to _St. Anthony_'s in point of Magnificence, is one of the finest in all _Italy_. The High Altar is, in all respects, a finish'd Piece of Work, and is intirely of Marble; as are also Twenty-four other Altars in the same Church, every one of which is of a particular Architecture. Round the Choir are Pews adorn'd with _Basso-Relievo's_, representing the Prophecies contain'd in the Old Testament relating to _Jesus Christ_; and the fulfilling of them in the New. On one Side of this Church is a huge Monastery, which has Six Cloysters, several Courts, and a Number of very magnificent Gardens. I went afterwards to see the Hall of the Town-house, which is one of the largest in _Europe_, being 256 Feet in Length, and 86 in Breadth: The Roof is very fine, and the Workmanship thereof bold, having no Pillar to support it; but the Fault of it is 'tis pretty dark, though I know not what should hinder its having more Light, the Situation of it being such that it might be procur'd for a very small Charge.

From _Padua_ I went to _Modena_, by the Way of _Ferrara_ and _Bologna_. The Soil of _Padua_ being very marshy, the Roads are terrible, and I had as much to do as ever I had in my Life to reach to _Ferrara_, where I took Water, for fear that I had the same bad Way to get to _Bologna_. The very Day that I arriv'd at the latter, I set out for _Modena_, to which is a very plain Road thro' a most agreeable Country, where the Eye is feasted at every Turn with a pleasing Variety.

* * * * *

MODENA is the Capital of a Duchy of the same Name. This was the City in which _Mark Anthony_ besieg'd _Brutus_, after the Murder of _Cæsar_. The Dukes of _Modena_ are of the Family of _Est_, and depend on the Empire. I had the Honour of making my Compliments to the Duke Regent, who receiv'd me in the most obliging Manner that could be. He was still in Mourning for the Empress _Leonora_, Mother to the Emperor. He receiv'd me standing: As soon as ever I had made my Obeisance he put on his Hat, forc'd me to put on mine, talk'd kindly to me for a good while, and I went away very well satisfy'd with my Audience.

As I had no Design to stay long at _Modena_, I did but glance over the several Quarters of this City, in which I found no Structure, either sacred or prophane, that deserves a Traveller's Regard. The Streets of _Modena_ are narrow, nasty, and ill-pav'd, the Street of the _Course_ being the only one that is tolerable. The Duke's Palace will be grand and magnificent when finish'd; as much as I saw of it carry'd up, being sufficient to form a great Idea of what the rest will be. The Duke's Apartments are spacious and richly furnish'd: There was one of them fitting up for _Madamoiselle de Valois_, the Daughter of the Duke of _Orleans_ the Regent, now the Princess of _Modena_, who they expected would soon be their Sovereign; and all Hands were at work to give her a Reception worthy of what she was already, and of what she was like to be. This Princess had need be Mistress of her Temper to bear the kind of Life they live at the Court of _Modena_, to which none can compare for Tranquillity; insomuch that it may be said, the very Gloominess of it is enough to incline a Person to Melancholy, especially one that comes to it from so gay a Court as that of _France_. In short, the Life of the Court of _Modena_ is the Life of a Convent: When they rise, they go to Mass, and dine betimes; after Dinner they take a Turn out for the Air; in the Evening they play for some Time, sup at Eight a Clock, and by Ten they are in Bed. This, _Madame_, is the common Custom at the Court of _Modena_; at least they liv'd thus when I was there: but the Arrival of the Princess perhaps might make some Alteration in that irksome Repetition of the same thing over again in Life, which is by no means suitable to a Sovereign Court.

* * * * *

From _Modena_ I went to REGGIO, a City and Bishoprick between _Parma_ and _Modena_. This Town is noted for its Fairs, which are said to have some Resemblance with ours at _Francfort_ and _Leipsic_. I have been told, that during these Fairs there's always a noble Opera perform'd in this Town.

* * * * *

From _Reggio_ I struck into the Road to PARMA, an Episcopal City, and Capital of a Duchy of the same Name. The Cathedral is a magnificent Pile, and the Dome is adorn'd with Paintings, which are much admir'd by the best Judges. As to the rest of the City, it appear'd to me to be large and very well built. Its Inhabitants are polite, generous and ingenious, and there's a good Number of Nobility here, but they live so much after the _Italian_ manner, that 'tis not an easy Matter to get acquainted with them.

The Court of _Parma_ is but little, if any thing, gayer than that of _Modena_: I was perfectly well receiv'd by the then Duke, _viz._ _Francis Farnese_, who, by a Dispensation, of which there are few Examples in the Catholic Church, had marry'd his Brother's Widow. This Princess is call'd _Dorothy_ of _Neubourg_: She is Sister of the Elector Palatine, and had by her first Husband _Elizabeth Farnese_, the present Queen of _Spain_: She having no Issue by her second, the Duchy of _Parma_, by the Death of Duke _Francis_ _Feb. 22, 1727_, devolv'd to his Brother _Anthony Farnese_, who marry'd _Henrietta_ Princess of _Modena_. As there is Reason to believe that this Marriage too will prove sterile, the famous _Farnese_ Family, which owes its Advancement to _Paul_ III. will be extinct in this _Anthony_. The said Pope, a little after his Exaltation to the Pontificate, gave the Investiture of the Dominions of _Parma_ and _Placentia_ to _Lewis Farnese_ his Bastard, who marry'd a Bastard Daughter of the Emperor _Charles_ V. yet this double Bastardy has not been a Bar to the matching of this with the chief Families in _Europe_.

* * * * *

I stay'd Three Days at _Parma_, and then proceeded on my Journey; I pass'd thro' PIACENZA or PLACENTIA, so call'd from its pleasant Situation; Nature having not form'd a finer Country any where than that betwixt this City and _Parma_: Here is a very fine Castle, and a noble Square, in which is the Court of Justice. The Houses are very well built, but not lofty, tho' indeed it would not signify any thing if they were higher, it being so thinly inhabited, that it looks like a Desert; for sometimes one shall walk a long while in this City, and not meet a Soul.

I stay'd but a Day at _Piacensa_, and went directly to MILAN, the capital City of one of the finest Duchies in the World: 'Tis one of the most beautiful Cities in all _Italy_, and the most magnificent in Buildings, both sacred and profane. The Metropolitan Church is, next to _St. Peter_'s at _Rome_, one of the finest Pieces of Work that can be imagin'd: 'Tis all white Marble within and without, and there's a great Number of Statues of the same. The Roof is supported by 160 Columns of white Marble, which are each valued at 10,000 Crowns. The Tower at the Top of it is also worth visiting, its Situation being so advantagious, that one sees several Cities from it, and a good Part of _Lombardy_.

There are several other noble Churches, of which I don't propose to give you a Description, nor of many other elegant Structures, that are likewise richly furnish'd; for the _Milanese_ Gentry love Magnificence: Their Apartments have a certain grand and noble Air, which the _Italians_ for most part rarely affect. The People of Quality here are very sociable: There's an Assembly every Night at one House or other by Turns, and in all Places there's great Freedom. Every one has his favourite Amusement; some chat, others play. They commonly sup together, after the Gaming is over, and sometimes they have a sort of Ball. You perceive, _Madame_, by what I have already said of _Milan_, that 'tis a very agreeable Place to live in: I forgot to mention one distinguishing Quality of the _Milanese_, which is, that they are not at all jealous, a Fault that seems so predominant in the Temper of the _Italians_, that I cannot imagine how they escape it.

You must know, that never was City subject to more Revolutions than _Milan_: It has been besieg'd 40 times, and 22 times taken, but was never worse treated than it was by the Emperor _Frederic_ I. surnam'd _Barbarossa_. This Prince, after he had taken it, caus'd it to be demolish'd, and sow'd it with Salt; only a few Churches were spar'd. The Duchy of _Milan_, which, by its Situation, lies convenient for many Sovereigns, has always prov'd a Source of Wars for _Italy_: You have read no doubt in several Histories, what Misfortunes this Duchy has entail'd upon the neighbouring Provinces, especially during the Reigns of _Charles_ V. and _Francis_ I. King of _France_. The latter having demanded the _Milanese_ for his second Son the Duke of _Orleans_, the Emperor promis'd to give him the Investiture of it, but he was so little a Slave to his Word, that he gave himself no Trouble to discharge his Promise, which bred an implacable Hatred between those Two Monarchs: It was indeed suspended more than once, but 'twas always to gain a Breathing-time, for they hated each other as long as they liv'd.

* * * * *

After I had stay'd awhile at _Milan_, I set out for the Court of _Savoy_. The first City I stopped at was CASAL, formerly one of the strongest and most important Fortresses in _Italy_: The Citadel especially was by all good Judges look'd upon as one of the Wonders of the World. _Lewis_ XIV. who had Possession of it for a long time, caus'd such fortifications to be made there, as are hardly to be match'd. That Monarch observing the Bigness of the Buildings, caus'd an Intrenchment and a second Rampart to be made, which form'd a new Bastion in the Centre of the first; but now there remain only some Vestigies of those fine Works; the Fortifications both of the City and Citadel having been demolish'd in 1695, according to a Capitulation made between the _Germans_ and the _French_, when the former made themselves Masters of the Place.

_Casal_ belong'd heretofore to the Dukes of _Mantua_, but now, by the Emperor's Grant thereof, it belongs to the King of _Sardinia_.

* * * * *

I went in one Day from _Casal_ to[25]TURIN, the capital City of _Piedmont_, the See of an Archbishop, and the chief Seat of the Duke of _Savoy_. 'Tis not very large, but is in the main a very pretty Town, the Streets being broad and strait, the Houses generally uniform, and intermingled with noble Edifices: Here is also a Citadel, one of the strongest that can be imagin'd, every Part of it being countermin'd. There is a Well of a very singular Construction, which, tho' very deep, is so contrived, that several Horses may go down and up again, without meeting one another: This is perform'd by means of a double Stair-case without Steps, which winds so many times, that it makes the Descent easy.

The Entrance into _Turin_ thro' the new Gate gives one a grand Idea of the City: We come first into a great and very long Street, the Houses of which are all of the same Architecture: About the middle of it is the Square of _St. Charles_, which is encompass'd with Houses perfectly uniform, which would make a much more grand Appearance, if the Piazza's, that run round it, were but higher. After one has pass'd the Square of _St. Charles_, the same new Street brings us to a second Square, that fronts the King's Palace, on the Right Hand of which stands the Palace where liv'd _Madame Royale_, the King's Mother: These Two Palaces have a Communication with each other by a Gallery.

There is nothing magnificent in the Outside of the King's Palace, but then the Apartments are of an elegant Taste, and richly furnish'd, and here's a great Number of Paintings, which good Judges reckon excellent Pieces. The Apartment of the King and Queen takes up the first Story, and forms a double Apartment, with a Guard-Room before it. The finest Part of the Palace is the famous Chapel of the Holy Handkerchief; tho' this Chapel be a Part of the Cathedral, I make no Scruple to call it the Chapel of the Palace, because the King always hears Mass there. I thought it a very gloomy Place, undoubtedly because 'tis lin'd with black Marble of a greenish Cast; and besides, there was no Brass nor Gilding to enliven all this Black. I ask'd, what could be the Reason, why they chose black Marble preferably to any other; and was told, that 'twas in Remembrance of the Death of our Saviour Jesus Christ, whose Holy Handkerchief is preserv'd over the Altar: This Altar is so made, that Two Priests may say Mass at it together, without seeing or interrupting one another.

On one Side of the King's Palace stands, as I had the Honour to tell you, the Palace of _Madame Royale_ the King's Mother. This Building was very inconsiderable heretofore, the Apartments being very plain, and the only Stair-case leading to it extremely incommodious: But _Madame Royale_, who did not value Money, caus'd great Alterations to be made in it: Among other Embellishments she built one intire Front, for the Sake of having one of the finest Stair-cases to it in the World; for which Reason they say now, _That here's a Stair-case without a Palace_, as they said before, _That 'twas a Palace without a Stair-case_. Indeed the rest of the Building is by no means answerable to the Magnificence of the Front and the Stair-case; yet, as mean an Appearance as it makes without, the Apartments within are magnificent; for look which way soever, one sees nothing but Marble, noble Gilding, Paintings by the greatest Masters, Pier-Glasses of a wonderful Size and Beauty, and other very rich Furniture. This Palace had only one Garden to it, which was encompass'd on the Three Sides by Streets and very fine Squares: The Back-Part look'd towards that call'd the Street of the _Po_, which is one of the finest in _Turin_.

The Royal Family consisted first and foremost of King _Victor Amadeus_, who marry'd a Granddaughter of _France_, nam'd _Anna-Maria_ of _Orleans_, Daughter of _Philip_ Duke of _Orleans_, Brother to _Lewis_ XIV. and to _Henrietta_ of _England_, by whom he has had Two Princes and Two Princesses: The first of the Princes was _Philip-Joseph_, who dy'd the 22d of _March_, 1715, at 15 Years of Age: The second, who is the present King by the Resignation of the King his Father, is _Charles-Emanuel_, who marry'd first _Anne-Christina_ of _Sultzbach_, and his second Wife was _Polyxena_ of _Hesse Rhinfels_.

The Two Princesses were _Mary-Adelaide_ of _Savoy_, (marry'd to the Duke of _Burgundy_, Dauphin of _France_, Father of _Lewis_ XV.) who dy'd the 12th of _February_, 1712: And _Mary-Louisa_ of _Savoy_, (the first Wife of _Philip_ V. the present King of _Spain_) who dy'd the 14th of _February_, 1714.

The Queen was still living while I was at _Turin_: She was one of the most courteous Princesses in the World, lov'd dearly to converse with her Courtiers, and was perfectly civil to Foreigners that had the Honour to be introduc'd to her: She dy'd the 26th of _August_, 1728.

_Madame Royale_ the King's Mother was very ancient; yet 'twas easy to discover, that she had once her Share of Beauty, and she had still a fine Shape and a majestic Air, in Spite of her great Age.

The first Prince of the Blood of the _Savoy_ Family is _Victor Amedeus_, the Prince of _Carignan_: This Prince happen'd not to be at _Turin_ when I was there, his Affairs having requir'd his Presence for some time in _France_: I had the Honour of paying my Compliments to the Princess his Consort, who, you know, is the King's Daughter, by the Countess of _Verrue_. Before her Marriage she went by the Title of _Madamoseille de Suza_: This Princess is indeed not very tall, but she is a perfect Beauty, the Features of her Face, which are regular, being improv'd moreover by a fair clear Complexion. All these external Perfections are supported likewise by the best Sense and a generous Soul: She is so good-natur'd, so civil, and has such a happy manner of expressing herself, as wins the Hearts at the same time as it procures the Respect of those that hear her: She has a Vivacity of Temper, which charms, and a Generosity, which is not confin'd to Words only; and she is never better pleas'd, than when she has an Opportunity of doing Service: This, _Madame_, is not a feign'd Character, for I say no more than what I was Eye-Witness of myself, and what the whole City of _Turin_ said of this Princess: And I saw with what Regret they parted with her, when she set out to see her Husband at _Paris_, which she did while I was at _Turin_.

I was a constant Attendant at Court to pay my Duty to the King and all the Royal Family: The Time that one had the Honour of speaking to his Majesty was commonly when he went from Mass, for it was very rare to see him the rest of the Day. After this the Company us'd to go to the Prince of _Piedmont_'s Apartment, which was over the King's; but one had not the Pleasure of waiting on that Prince so often or so long as it were to be wish'd, because he was then very much taken up with his Studies: The best time to see him was in the Evening, when he came to the Queen's Drawing-Room, which was open'd about 6 or 7 o'Clock: Then the Ladies came in their Court Dress, and were admitted into the Queen's Chamber, where a Chair of State was plac'd between Two Rows of Stools: The Queen came out of her Closet with the Princesses, and as soon as she was in Reach of her Chair, she made a Curtesy to the Right and Left, and then sate down: The Princesses also seated themselves in Folding Chairs; but the Ladies stood behind the Princesses, and the Gentlemen behind the Ladies: The Queen, after a Conversation with the Princesses and the Ladies, arose, paid her Compliments again to the Right and Left, and then retir'd; tho' sometimes she stopp'd in the same Chamber, to talk to such Ladies or Gentlemen as she had a Mind to distinguish.

From the Queen's Drawing-Room the Company went to the Apartment of _Madame Royale_. This Princess had a Drawing-Room in the same manner as the Queen, only with this Difference, that the Prince of _Piedmont_ was not there, and that after it was over, her Royal Highness permitted those Persons that she had a Mind to honour, to follow her into her Bedchamber, where she talk'd a long time with them, being supported all the while by one of her Equerries.

After her Drawing-Room was over, there was no other Person of the Royal Family to be seen more for that Night, and then the Nobility us'd to repair to the Princess of _Villa-Franca_'s Assembly, where there was Variety of Gaming: There were always several Tables for Ombre, Pharo, Lansquenet, _&c._ and I play'd there with Fortune very much on my Side, as I had done ever since I had been in _Italy_, where Gaming, in short, had defray'd all my Expences; insomuch that when I got to the other Side of the Mountains, I found that I was still a Gainer by about 200 Pistoles.

I found a great many Foreigners in the Service of the King of _Sardinia_: The Commander of his Forces was _M. de Rhebinder_, a _Swede_, who gave Foreigners a complete Reception, and his House was one of the best in _Turin_. _M. de Schulembourg_, whose Family you know perfectly well, was a Lieutenant-General: This Nobleman being a _Lutheran_, had obtain'd Leave to have a Chaplain of his own Religion. I shall not mention the other foreign Officers to you, because I had no particular Acquaintance with them.

Before I leave _Turin_, I fancy you will not be displeas'd with some Account of the King's Houshold, which tho' not numerous, is very magnificent. His Majesty has Three Companies of Life-Guards, which are distinguish'd by the Names of _Sardinia_, _Savoy_, and _Piedmont_, and are very well cloath'd. The King has a considerable Number of Pages, who are brought up much more carefully than at our _German_ Courts, where one very often forgets that the Pages are Gentlemen. Their Livery is Scarlet, with a blue and white Velvet Lace.

The Prince of _Piedmont_ was serv'd by the King's Officers.

The Queen had her separate Houshold. She had a Lady of Honour, a Tire-Woman, and Six Maids of Honour, who were to be cashier'd, and they talk'd of appointing Six Ladies of the Bedchamber, that were marry'd, to attend the Queen's Person in their room.

_Madame Royale_ had also her Houshold and her Guards. As she was naturally fond of Splendor, all her Court made a very gay Appearance. She had likewise in her Service the same Number of Ladies and Maids of Honour as the Queen had.

There happen'd an Adventure at the Court of her Royal Highness which made a very great Noise. Among this Princess's Maids of Honour, who were all very amiable, there was one that so far excell'd the rest, that her Beauty engag'd her a great many Admirers from all Parts. Among others that enter'd the Lists, was a young _Piedmontese_, whom I knew full well. He was a very handsome lively Man, but a mere Rattle; so that after having set all Engines at work to carry his Point, and sigh'd a long time, he found himself just as far advanc'd as the first Day that he began. However, this young Lover was not dishearten'd, but continu'd his Addresses with a Constancy which really deserv'd some Regard; but whether 'twas owing to Virtue, or perhaps to the Fear of disgusting some favourite Lover, the Damsel remain'd inflexible. The _Piedmontese_ being thus rebuff'd, thought he was bound in Honour not to survive such Treatment; but in so critical an Affair he resolv'd to do nothing rashly. He believ'd that when the cruel Fair One saw the Despair into which she had cast him, and the dreadful Extreme to which he was reduc'd, it might engage her to treat him with less Severity; but it happen'd quite otherwise, insomuch that the silly young Fellow having declar'd in plain Terms that he would kill himself if he was to suffer Martyrdom any longer, the Damsel answer'd him very indifferently, _Kill yourself if you will_, _what's that to me?_ This Expression, indeed, made the young _Piedmontese_ not so desirous to be his own Executioner as he pretended; but nevertheless he was resolv'd to frighten his Mistress, and leaving her very abruptly, he went and fill'd a Bladder with Blood, and putting it very artfully under his Shirt, he return'd to the Damsel, and threaten'd even to destroy himself in her Presence, if she persisted in her Refusal of his Addresses. The Answer he received being much of the same kind with the former, he cry'd out in a Passion, _What, will you have my Life, Mademoiselle? Well then, so be it_: At the same Instant he drew his Sword, and having prick'd the Bladder, he fell down as if he was a dead Man; Upon this the Damsel gave a dreadful Shriek, and Help came immediately. The great Effusion of Blood was terrifying at the first Sight; but when the young Spark was set upon his Legs, 'twas quickly perceiv'd by his Countenance, that the Sacrifice he had made did not cost him very dear. The worse Luck for him, it happen'd that _Madame Royale_ was inform'd of it that very Instant; for the Tragi-Comedy being presently divulg'd in her Antichamber, that Princess, in order to teach the Puppy not to fail hereafter in the Respect due to Princes, caus'd him to be committed to a Castle not far from _Turin_, where he was for about Two Years a Prisoner.

* * * * *

From _Turin_ I went the same Day to the Foot of Mount _Cenis_. I saw nothing remarkable all the Way, except the Town of SUSA, in which were formerly kept the Titles and Charters of the House of _Savoy_; but the Emperor _Frederic_ I. set Fire to it, and burnt them all.

At a little Distance from _Susa_ is a Fortress call'd LA BRUNETTE, which is worth the Traveller's Notice: It commands the Passage of the _Alps_, which hereafter will for that reason be more difficult for the _French_ to pass than formerly. Next Day after my Arrival at the Foot of Mount _Cenis_, I prepared to pass that terrible Mountain: For this Purpose I dismounted my Chaise, and put it with my Trunks upon the Backs of Mules; after which I plac'd myself in a sort of Arm-Chair; and Two Men, who were reliev'd every now-and-then by Two others, carry'd me over it in Five Hours time. When I was on the Top of it I stopp'd, in hopes of discovering a great Tract of Country; but saw nothing, except a great Lake, and fine rich Meadows. On the Top of this Mountain there was a House of Entertainment, where the Mule-Drivers and Chair-Men always refresh themselves. This surely is the dismalest Place in the World, it being situate in the middle of a frightful Desert, which is always, or at least Nine Months in the Year, cover'd with Snow. One thing remarkable is, that no Robbery is committed in this wild Place, tho' the People upon the Skirts of it are not to be trusted.

* * * * *

After I had been over Mount _Cenis_, I went to _Lanebourg_, the first Village in _Savoy_, where Travellers get again into their Chaises. As soon as my Equipage was remounted, I traveled to[26] CHAMBERY, the Capital of _Savoy_. This is a City situate between Two Mountains, upon the Rivers _Laise_ and _Albans_. 'Tis the Residence of a Parliament, consisting of Fifteen Senators and Four Presidents, which is oblig'd for its Institution to _Amedeus_ VIII. Duke of _Savoy_.

* * * * *

From _Chambery_ I went to GENEVA, a little Republic, which is an Ally of the _Swiss_ Cantons. The City stands upon a Lake, of which it claims the Sovereignty, as the Republic of _Venice_ does that of the _Adriatic_ Sea. This Lake contributes very much to the Embellishment of _Geneva_, which is built upon a Hill, in Form of an Amphitheatre; so that on one Side it looks over the Lake, on the Banks of which are Vineyards and very pretty Country-Houses; and on the other Side is a Prospect of a noble Plain, Gardens, very fine Pastures, and a curious Walk form'd by a very long Mall: On each Side are the Mountains of _Savoy_, the Tops of which being cover'd with Snow, form a very agreeable View.

'Tis true, that as to the _Genevese_, the Situation of their City would be much more advantageous, if their Prospect was not so confin'd; or, at least, if they had nothing to fear from that which forms so charming a Point of View: For which way soever these Republicans turn their Eyes, they easily see the Limits of their Dominions; and this little Republic only subsists by the Jealousy of the Sovereigns their Neighbours, who will not suffer any one of themselves to make a Conquest of it. Mean time these People make a Parade of their Forces, and have been at considerable Expence in fortifying the Place, tho' for what Reason I cannot imagine; since if any one of the neighbouring Powers came to attack _Geneva_, and the City was not supported by the others, it would be oblig'd to surrender, whether fortify'd or not. I should have thought it better to have employ'd the Money expended on their new Fortifications, in embellishing their City, and to have contented themselves with the old Fortifications, which were more than sufficient to have given them Time for receiving Succours in case of an Attack.

I went to see the Arsenal, which appear'd to me to be well furnish'd, and they have always a considerable Garison, the Soldiers of which must be all Voluntiers; and if they once take a Dislike to the Service, they may demand their Dismission, and their Officer cannot refuse it: Yet notwithstanding this Liberty, the Garison is not always completer than it should be.

The _Genevese_ have the Reputation of being rich, and not without Foundation; for they drive a considerable Trade, and every body there is either a Merchant or a Manufacturer. Yet they affect a great deal of Plainness, both in their Buildings and their Furniture. Their Houses are not lofty, nor the Apartments very large; and both their Houshold-stuff and Cloaths are very modest; there being a Decree of the Senate, which forbids them to make use of Gilding in their Furniture or Apparel, for fear, 'tis like, that Luxury, which formerly prov'd the Ruin of the _Roman_ Republic, should be equally destructive to their petty State.

The Senate of _Geneva_ commonly assembles in their Town-House, opposite to which is a Guard-Room, where the Soldiers present their Arms, as the Senators go in or out of the Assembly, or when they walk in Ceremony: Upon these Occasions the Senate and the Ministers form Two Rows, the former on the Right Hand, and the latter on the Left.

The Town-House has nothing very remarkable, every thing being very plain. In the great Hall I observ'd the Figures of Queen _Anne_ of _England_, _Frederic_ I. King of _Prussia_, _Frederic William_ the Great Elector of _Brandenbourg_, and the Landgrave of _Hesse-Cassel_; which are all so many Proofs of those Princes Communion with the _Genevese_. You know that they are all of the _Calvinist_ Religion, and very careful not to suffer any other Sect to herd with them. The _Lutherans_ have a little Chamber there, which serves for their Church, they being expresly forbid to build one. As for the _Roman Catholics_, they are look'd upon at _Geneva_ to be all Idolaters; insomuch that the late King of _France_ had much ado to get Leave for Mass to be said at his Resident's House: The _Genevese_ Ministers at the Time that _Lewis_ XIV. caus'd this Demand to be made of the Republic, employ'd all their Engines to hinder its being granted; but all their Measures were in vain: and they were given to understand, that it would be imprudent to disoblige so great a Prince.

The Reverend Gentlemen their Ministers make so considerable a Figure in the State, that I must just mention them. They are reverenc'd as so many Bishops; every one of them in his respective Pulpit issues his Mandate, and decides Matters of Faith in the Dernier Resort: But tho' they are all of the same Religion, they are some times very different from one another in Opinion. Nevertheless, be they ever so divided one among another, they join hand in hand when they have a Mind to inveigh against the Pope, the Court of _Rome_, the Bishops, and especially the Jesuits; for they can't endure the latter: And 'tis rare for a Minister to be so much Master of his Temper, as to keep strictly to his Text, without rambling from it to lash those Fryars.

As to the Gentlemen of the Government, it must be confess'd they are very charitable. They have caus'd a magnificent Hospital to be built, on which they have settled great Revenues, and where the Poor are very well maintain'd. Here poor Passengers are admitted for one Day, and, after having been entertain'd with Lodging and Food, are dismiss'd the next Day, with some Money in their Pockets to proceed in their journey. This same Hospital serves also for a House of Correction for loose young Fellows and Women, over whom the Police at _Geneva_ carries a very strict Hand. I wish I could say as much of the Trading Part of this City, who it may be are very civil People; but the Dispute I had with one of the most eminent of them, makes me very much suspect their Honesty; and this was what gave me an Opportunity to know a little of the Character of the Tradesmen of _Geneva_. 'Tis true, that I had nothing to do but with one of them; but as I was recommended to him alone, as a Man of the greatest Integrity in _Geneva_, I think I do not judge rashly of all the rest, by laying no more Dishonesty to their Charge than what I met with in this so much applauded Banker.

When I was preparing to quit _Geneva_, I had about the Value of 400 Pistoles, Part old Species and Part _Spanish_ Pistoles; but I heard at the same time, that such Pieces were prohibited to pass in _France_, and therefore I was advis'd to get rid of them, and to take Bills of Exchange for them upon _Lyons_. I made no Hesitation to comply with this Advice, and went to find out the Man that was recommended to me for the honestest Banker in all _Geneva_. As Bills began at that time to sink very much in Credit, I bargain'd with him, that I should not be put off at _Lyons_, upon any Pretence whatever, with any thing less than ready Money. As all this was only verbal, the Banker made me the most solemn Promise, and back'd it with an Oath, that it should be as I would have it. Relying on Promises, which were in Appearance so authentic, I told down my Money, and when he took it, he added, That if the Banker at _Lyons_ should happen to refuse me Specie, I need only send him back his Bill of Exchange, and I might depend on being paid in ready Money. Not doubting of this honest Man's Sincerity, I set out from _Geneva_ with his Bill of Exchange, and a small matter of Money that I had reserv'd, just to bear my Expences on the Road. As soon as I came to _Lyons_, I went to the Banker to whom the _Genevese_ directed me, and presented my Bill of Exchange, for which I saw he was going to give me Paper; but I immediately refus'd to be paid in that sort of Coin, and told him the Agreement I had made at _Geneva_. He said to me, that he was not oblig'd to stand to an Agreement which he was no ways privy to, and advis'd me to send back my Bill to _Geneva_. I took his Advice, and wrote to my Banker, that what we had agreed upon would not be comply'd with; but he was so tedious in returning me an Answer, that I thought once I should have had neither Money nor Bills, and that by consequence my Case would have been very melancholy, the little Sum I had reserv'd for my Journey to _Lyons_ being soon spent. However, at Three Weeks End the _Genevese_ Banker sent back my Bill of Exchange, and stiffly deny'd that he had made any other Bargain with me, than that I should be paid in the Current Money, which was Bills. I plainly perceiv'd that there was no Remedy but Submission, therefore I took the Bills and set out Post from _Lyons_ for _Paris_.

I found great Alterations in this City since I was here last. The Peace with _Spain_ was establish'd: Most of the Prisoners that had been concern'd in the Prince of _Cellamare_'s Affair, were then at Liberty: Some, indeed, that were the most guilty, or the most useless to the State, had been banish'd the Kingdom; and the greatest Part were retir'd to _Spain_, where I saw some of them in such a poor Plight, that they wish'd themselves again in the _Bastille_, where they were at least well fed.