Chapter XIV: The Maya Tribes (2)

In still another temple, situated but a short distance from the
others, was discovered a third tablet, which is shown in the cut
opposite. We give all the tablet, showing the hieroglyphics as
well. We must compare this with the first tablet given. The
priests are, evidently, the same—but, notice, they stand on
different sides of the cross. The same priest is making the
offering as in the first, and the same bird is seen on the top of
the cross. The priests stand on flowered ornaments. The support
of the cross resembles the same thing as in the first but whether
it is a human skull, or a serpent, is hard to tell. The cross
itself is not as well outlined. The two arms are floral
ornaments. We must also notice the two faces seen on the upright
part.22

Maler’s Cross.

These tablets are all of great interest. That of the cross, the
first one given, has attracted more attention than almost any
other in the field of American antiquities. This is largely owing
to the cross. As far as the sacred emblem itself is concerned, we
do not think this tablet of more significance than that of the
sun. It is well known that the cross, as a sacred emblem, had
peculiar significance in the ancient religions of the world. Its
use as such has come down to us from time immemorial. On the
first expedition of the Spaniards, in 1518, to the coast and
islands of Yucatan, they discovered that the cross was of some
significance to the natives. In the island of Cozumel they found
a large cross, to which the natives prayed for rain.23

Mr. Brinton thinks that the source of this veneration of the
cross, like the the sacredness of the number four, of which he
gives numerous illustrations, is the four cardinal points.24 From
these points blow the four winds which bring the fertilizing
rains, and thus render the earth fruitful; and hence the cross,
in so many and widely separated portions of the earth, is used as
the symbol of the life-giving, creative, and fertilizing
principle in nature.25 He thinks this is, perhaps, the
significance of these Palenque crosses. It is true we have
different forms of the cross; but in ancient sculpture they seem
to have been of equal importance.26

The results of these inquiries into the hidden meaning of these
tablets are not devoid of interest; but, thus far, but few
conclusions of value have been obtained. They have been made to
do service in support of some far-fetched theories. The early
Spanish writers on these subjects concluded that the crosses
found in Central America were positive proof that St. Thomas had
traveled through the country preaching the doctrines of
Christianity. The padres, who came to visit Mr. Stephens at the
ruins, “at the sight of it, immediately decided that the old
inhabitants of Palenque were Christians, and fixed the age of the
buildings in the third century.”

Wilson finds in the tablets of the cross a strong argument for
the existence of a great Phœnician empire in Central America.
This tablet represents, he thinks, the sacrifice of a child to
Astarte,27 also called Ashtoreth, the great female deity of the
ancient Semitic nations on both sides of the Euphrates, but
chiefly of Phœnicia. The original meaning of this word was “Queen
of Heaven.” Modern scholars do not think these early speculations
of the slightest worth. Dr. Charles Rau28 concludes that as
reasonable a conjecture as any is the supposition that it
represents a sacrifice to the god of rain, made, perhaps, at a
time of drought, apparently influenced to that conclusion by the
fact that the natives of Cozumel regarded a cross in such a
light,29 and further that a cross represents the moisture-bearing
winds.

E. S. Holden30 has made a critical study of the hieroglyphics of
Copan and Palenque. Though far from complete, most interesting
results have been obtained. We can not do more than set forth the
results of his investigations.31 He concludes, from a careful
study of the tablets of the cross and of the sun, that in both
the left-hand priests are representatives of the god of war,32
the right-hand priests being in both representatives of the god
of rain and water.33 In Mexico these deities frequently occupied
the same temple.34 He does not state his conclusions in regard to
the central figures in the tablets. Mr. Brinton thinks the
central figure in the tablet of the cross is a rebus for the
nature god Quetzalcohuatl. The cross was one of the symbols of
Quetzalcohuatl, as such signifying the four winds of which he was
lord. Another of his symbols was a bird. We notice the two
symbols present in the tablet. Mr. Holden also finds that the
glyph standing for this god occurs several times in the tables of
hieroglyphics belonging to this figure.

According to these last views, then, the old Palenquians seem to
have been a very religious people, and Quetzalcohuatl, the god of
peace, seems to have been their principal deity, differing in
this regard from Mexico, where all honor was paid to the god of
war. We are not given any explanation of the Temple of the Three
Tablets, but the other temples have to do with the worship of
this benign deity. The beautiful stucco-work in the Temple of the
Beau-relief, Mr. Holden thinks, also represents him. At the
Temples of the Cross, if we be right as to the meaning of the
central figure, the priests of the god of war and the god of rain
do honor to him.35

Mr. Bandelier makes a statement in regard to the cross which, if
it be accepted, clears away a number of theories. He remarks:
“The cross, though frequently used previously to the conquest by
the Aborigines of Mexico and Central America as an ornament, was
not at all an object of worship among them. Besides, there is a
vast difference between the cross and the crucifix. What has been
taken for the latter on sculptures, like the ‘Palenque tablet,’
is merely the symbol of the ‘Newfire,’ or close of a period of
fifty-two years. It is the fire drill more or less ornamented.”
According to this view, these interesting tablets have reference
to the ceremonies observed by the Mayas at the expiration of a
cycle.36

It now only remains to describe some miscellaneous relics
obtained from Palenque. But few specimens of pottery have been
found. One of the early explorers speaks of finding an earthen
vessel about a foot in diameter. Waldeck made an exploration in a
portion of the palace area, and found a gallery containing hewn
blocks of stone and earthen cups and vases, with many little
earthen balls of different colors. He also speaks of a fine
specimen of terra-cotta.37

The only statues known were found near the Temple of the Cross.
There were two of them, and they supported a platform before the
central doorway. One was broken to pieces; the other is here
represented. Many writers point out resemblances between this
figure and some Egyptian statues.

Statue Palenque. (Smith. Inst.)

In the village of Palenque, built in the wall of a church,38 are
two stone tablets which once stood on each side of the doorway of
the altar containing the tablet of the cross.39 Mr. Stephens was
under the impression that they were originally placed on the
altar of the tablet of the sun, and they are so represented in
the cut (Altar in the Temple of the Sun.) earlier. This plate
represents the left-hand figure. The only explanation which we
have met is contained in that oft-quoted article by Mr. Holden.
He regards it as the representation of the Maya god of war. We
are warned that the weak part of Mr. Holden’s method is his
assumption that the mythology of the Mayas was the same as that
of the Aztecs, when the evidence is not strong enough to assert
such a fact.40

We feel that we have been somewhat lengthy in describing the
ruins of Palenque. But it is one of the most important groups of
ruins that this continent possesses. The most faithful work on
the part of the scholars of all lands has not as yet succeeded in
clearing up the mystery connected with it. We can tread the
courts of their ancient citadel, clamber up to the ruined temples
and altars, and gaze on the unread hieroglyphics, but, with all
our efforts, we know but little of its history. There was a time
when the forest did not entwine these ruins. Once unknown priests
ministered at these altars. But cacique, or king, and priest have
alike passed away. The nation, if such it was, has vanished, and
their descendants are probably to be found in the savage tribes
of Yucatan to-day. “In the romance of the world’s history,” says
Mr. Stephens, “nothing ever impressed me more forcibly than the
spectacle of this once great and lovely city, overturned,
desolate, and lost, discovered by accident, overgrown with trees
for miles around, without even a name to distinguish it. Apart
from every thing else, it was a mournful witness to the world’s
mutation.

“‘Nations melt From power’s high
pinnacle, when they have felt The
sunshine for awhile, and downward go.’”

The ruins at Palenque have been so well known, that but little
attention has been given to other ruins in the States of Tobasco
and Chiapas; and yet, according to M. Charney, imposing ruins of
great extent exist in the western part of Tobasco. At a place
about thirty-five miles from San Juan, in a north-westerly
direction, he found veritable mountains of ruins “overgrown with
a luxuriant vegetation.”41 In the absence of cuts, we can not do
more than give a general idea of these ruins.

Bas-relief on the left-hand of the Altar of the Corss. (Bureau of Ethnology.)

He asserts that the whole State of Tobasco, and part of Chiapas,
is covered with ruins. One landed proprietor informed him that,
on his estate, he had counted over three hundred pyramids, all of
them covered with ruins. In this connection he refers to the
assertions of some of the early Spanish voyagers, that, when
skirting the shores of Tobasco, they “saw on the shore, and far
in the interior, a multitude of structures, whose white and
polished walls glittered in the sun.” On one large pyramid, one
hundred and fifteen feet high, he found the remains of a building
two hundred and thirty-five feet long.

This building is named the palace. In this building we met with
the type that we have learned is the prevailing one further
south—that is, three parallel walls, forming two rows of rooms.
In general, the rooms are not well arranged for comfort,
according to our opinion; but they were, doubtless, well adapted
to the communal mode of life prevalent among the Indians. M.
Charney seems to have been strongly impressed with the number and
importance of the ruins in this State; but, strangely enough,
others have not mentioned them.42 He says: “I am daily receiving
information about the ruins scattered all over the State of
Tobasco, hidden in the forests. . . . The imagination fails to
realize the vast amount of labor it would involve to explore even
a tithe of these ancient sites. These mountains of ruins extend
over twelve miles. We still see the hollows in the ground whence
the soil was taken for the construction of these pyramids. But
they did not consist merely of clay; bricks, too, entered into
their construction, and there were strengthening walls to make
them firmer. These structures are more wonderful than the
pyramids and the other works at Teotihuacan, and they far surpass
the pyramids of Egypt.”

In the neighboring State of Chiapas, we find the location of
several groups of ruins. At Ocosingo, we have the evident traces
of a large settlement. Mr. Stephens mentions four or five
pyramids crowned with buildings. Immediately beyond these
pyramids he came upon an open plateau, which he considered to
have been the site of the city proper. It was protected on all
sides by the same high terraces, overlooking for a great distance
the whole country around, and rendering it impossible for an
enemy to approach from any quarter without being discovered.
“Across this table was a high and narrow causeway, which seemed
partly natural and partly artificial, and at some distance on
which was a mound, with the foundation of a building that had
probably been a tower. Beyond this the causeway extended till it
joined a range of mountains. . . . There was no place we had seen
which gave us such an idea of the vastness of the works erected
by the aboriginal inhabitants.”43

The ruins at Palenque are considered by some to belong to the
ancient period of Maya architecture; those we are now to examine
are regarded as of more modern date. This is at least true with
respect to the time of their abandonment. Though the efforts of
explorers in Yucatan have been attended with rich results, still
few places have been fully described. The country is fairly
dotted with sites of aboriginal settlements. In all probability
there are many that are yet unknown. Hidden in tropical jungles,
they are fast falling into meaningless mounds of _débris._ The
early Spanish explorers, skirting the coasts of Yucatan, gazed in
astonishment at the views they occasionally obtained of pyramids
crowned with temples and imposing buildings. But this gleam of
historic light was but momentary in duration. It served but to
throw a sunset glow over the doomed tribes and civilization of
the Mayas. By the aid of that dim, uncertain light, we are asked
to recognize a form of government and society which, under the
clearer light of modern researches is seen to bear an equally
strong resemblance to institutions more in keeping with the
genius of the New World.

The few travelers who visit the country are generally content to
revisit and describe places already known. This is not strange,
considering the difficulties that have to be overcome. The
country swarms with savage Indians, who are jealous of the
intrusions of strangers. We have, however, this consolation:
those ruins already brought to light show such a uniformity of
detail, that it is not probable that any new developments are to
be expected. The ruins that are already known are sufficient to
illustrate all the points of their architecture; and we can draw
from them, doubtless, all that can be drawn from ruins, throwing
light on the civil organization of the Mayas of Yucatan.

Plan of Uxmal.

We can not do better than to describe some of the more important
ruins, and then notice wherein others differ. Examining the map,
we see that Uxmal44 is one of the first ruins that would meet us
on arriving, in the country. It is more fully described than any
other, though perhaps not of greater importance than those of
some other localities. As at Palenqué, while the principal ruins
are said to be situated in a small area, the whole section
abounds in mounds and heaps of _débris,_ and it may well be said
that buildings as imposing as those already described are
concealed in the forest not far removed from the present ruins. A
plat of ground seventeen hundred feet long by twelve hundred feet
wide would include the principal structures now known.

The most imposing single edifice here is that called the
Governor’s House. The only reason for giving it this name is its
size. Being of large size, and located on a terraced pyramid, it
has received a name which may be very inappropriate. We will
first notice the pyramid on which the building stands. At
Palenque the pyramid rises regularly from the ground. Here the
pyramid is terraced. In order to understand clearly the
arrangement of these various terraces, we introduce this drawing.
The base is a somewhat irregular figure, though nearly a square.
Another pyramid cuts into one corner of the terrace. The first
terrace is about three feet high, fifteen feet broad, and five
hundred and seventy-five feet long. The second terrace is twenty
feet high, two hundred and fifty feet wide, and five hundred and
forty-five feet in length. The third terrace, on which the
building stands, is nineteen feet high, and its summit platform
is one hundred by three hundred and sixty feet. The height of
this platform above the general surface is a little over forty
feet.45

Pyramid at Palenque.

The material of which the pyramid is composed, is rough fragments
of limestone, thrown together without order; but the terraces
were all faced with substantial stone work. At the time of Mr.
Stephens’s visit the facing of the second terrace was still in a
good state of preservation. Charney believes the platform was
paved with square blocks. This pyramid was not entirely
artificial—they took advantage of a natural hill, as far as it
went. No stairway or other means of ascent to the first terrace
is mentioned. From its low height, probably none was needed. The
second terrace being twenty feet high, some means of ascent was
required. This was afforded, as seen in the drawing, by an
inclined plane, at the south side one hundred feet broad. From
the second terrace a grand staircase, one hundred and thirty feet
wide, containing thirty-five steps, led up to the summit of the
third terrace.

No buildings or other ornaments are mentioned as having been
found on the lower terrace. The wide promenade of the second one
supported some structures of its own, but they were in too
dilapidated a condition to furnish a clear idea of their original
nature, except in one instance—that is of the building at A of
the drawing. This building was ninety-four feet long, thirty-four
feet wide, and about twenty feet high.

The roof had fallen in, so that we do not know the arrangement of
the rooms in the interior. The simplicity of ornaments on the
outer wall is commented on. Instead of the complicated ornaments,
so apparent on the buildings of Yucatan, the only ornament in
this case was a simple and elegant line of round columns,
standing close together, and encircling the whole edifice. At
regular intervals on the upper cornice appeared a sculptured
turtle. From this circumstance, the building was named “The House
of Turtles.” No steps lead to the terrace below or to the one
above. “It stands isolated and alone, seeming to mourn over its
own desolate and ruinous condition.”

At B, along the south end of the terrace, there was a long, low
mound of ruins, and arranged along its base was a row of broken
columns about five feet high and nearly five feet in
circumference. Some have supposed, from this, that columns
extended along the entire promenade of the second terrace. This
would indeed give it a very grand appearance; but there is no
foundation for such a view. East of the central stairway at C,
was a low, square inclosure. This contained a standing pillar,
now in a slanting position, as if an effort had been made to
throw it over. It was about eight feet above the surface of the
ground and five below. The Indians called it a whipping-post. Mr.
Stephens thinks it was connected with the ceremonial rites of an
ancient worship. He found a similarly shaped stone in connection
with other buildings at Uxmal, and at other places in Yucatan.

Two-headed Monument, Uxmal.

Still further east, at D, he found a rude, circular mound of
rough stones. On excavating this, he was rewarded by the
discovery of a double-headed monument. It was carved out of a
single block of stone. The probabilities are that it was
purposely buried when the natives abandoned Uxmal, to prevent the
Spaniards from destroying it. Scattered about over this platform
were found excavations much like well-made cisterns in shape. As
it is something of a mystery where the inhabitants obtained
water, it is a reasonable supposition that these were really
cisterns. Similar excavations were discovered all over the area
of the ruins.

Leaving the second terrace, and passing up the ruined stairway,
we find ourselves on the summit platform of the third terrace,
and see before us one of the long, low, richly ornamented
buildings of Yucatan. This cut presents us an end view, but gives
us a good idea of the building as a whole. It does not occupy the
entire summit; there is a wide promenade all around it. Its
length is three hundred and twenty-two feet; its width,
thirty-nine feet, and its height twenty-six feet.

End View.

In order to understand clearly the arrangement of the rooms, we
will here give the ground-plan. The two end portions may have
been additions to the original structure. There are, at any rate,
reasons for supposing the small rooms in the two recesses of
later construction. We must notice that we have here the usual
three parallel walls and two rows of rooms. All the walls are
massive, the rear wall especially so. It is nine feet thick
throughout, and so are the transverse walls of the two recesses.
Supposing the rear wall might contain rooms, Mr. Stephens made an
opening through it. He found it to be solid.

Ground Plan.

The stones facing the walls and rooms are smooth and square, and
the mass of the masonry consists of rough, irregular fragments of
stone and mortar. This cross-section makes this meaning plain. We
can but notice what an immense amount of useless labor was
bestowed on the walls and ceilings of this building. We gather
more the idea of galleries excavated in a rocky mass, than of
rooms inclosed by walls. The rooms are very plain; no attempt at
decoration was observed. In one or two instances the remains of a
fine coat of plastering was noticed. “The floors were of cement,
in some places hard, but by long exposure broken, and now
crumbling under foot.” The arches supporting the roof are of the
same style as those at Palenque—that is, triangular,—though, in
this case, the ends of the projecting stones were beveled off so
as to form a smooth surface. At Palenque, we remember, the
inequalities were filled with cement. Across the arches were
still to be observed beams of wood, the ends buried in the wall
at both sides. The supposition is that they served to support the
arches while building, and afterwards for the suspension of
hammocks.46

Cross-section of Uxmal.

There are no openings for light and ventilation, consequently
some of the rear rooms are both damp and dark. The lintels over
each doorway were of wood. This was the common and ordinary
material employed for lintels in Yucatan, though in one or two
instances stone was used. They used for this purpose beams of
zapote, a wood noted for its strength and durability. Some inner
lintels still remain in place. The one over the central doorway
of the outer wall was elaborately carved, the others were plain.

The outside of the building is also of interest to us. By a
careful examination, we notice a cornice just above the doorway.
The wall below the cornice presents a smooth surface of
limestone, no traces of plaster or paint appearing; above the
cornice the façade is one solid mass of rich, complicated, and
elaborately sculptured ornaments. This is not stucco work, as at
Palenque, but the ornaments are carved on stone. Mr Stephens
tells us, “Every ornament or combination is made up of separate
stones, each of which had carved on it part of the subject, and
was then set in its place in the wall. Each stone, by itself, is
an unmeaning fractional portion, but placed by the side of
others, makes, part of a whole which, without it, would be
incomplete.”

It is not possible to give a verbal description of all of the
ornaments; we can notice but few. Over each doorway was
represented a person apparently seated on a sort of throne,
having a lofty head-dress, with enormous plumes of feathers
falling symmetrically on each side. Though the figures varied in
each case, in general characteristics they were the same as the
one here represented, which was the figure over the central
doorway of the building.

Figure over the Doorway. Ornament over the Doorway.

Among the most commonly reappearing ornaments at Uxmal, and at
other places, is one that has received the name of the
“Elephant’s Trunk,” and has given rise to no little discussion.
One occurs immediately above the figure. Part of this ornament is
represented in this plate. The central part of this figure, which
appears as a plain band, is in reality a curved projecting stone,
which, when looked at sideways, has the appearance given in this
cut. Though requiring a little imagination, the majority of
travelers see in this some monster’s face. The eyes and teeth are
seen in the first engraving. This projecting stone is the nose.

Elephant’s Trunk.

We stand in amazement before this sculptured façade. We must
reflect that its builders were not possessed of metallic tools.
It extends entirely around the building, though the end and rear
walls are not as elaborately decorated as the front. A little
calculation shows that it contains over ten thousand square feet
of carved stone. The roof of the building was flat. It had been
covered with cement. But vegetation had somehow acquired a
foothold, and the whole is now overgrown with grass and bushes.
Such is a brief description of this “casa.” Hastening to ruins,
it appeals powerfully to the imagination. It is a memorial of
vanished times. We wonder what of the strange people that pressed
up these stairs and entered these rooms? For many years it has
been abandoned to the elements. Year by year portions of the
ornamented façade fall. Though the walls are massive and the roof
is strong, it is but a question of time when a low mound of ruins
will alone mark its site.

Like the palace at Palenque, this structure has given rise to
conflicting theories as to its use. While many of the writers on
this subject claim that it was the residence of royalty, there
are, on the other hand, those who think it is simply a communal
house of village Indians, or the official house of the tribe. In
whatever light we shall ultimately view it, it is surely an
interesting monument of native American culture. The labor
necessary to rear the terraced pyramid, even though advantage was
taken of a natural eminence, must have been great. The building
itself, though not of great dimensions, except in length, must
have required the labor of a large number of Indians for a long
time. For purposes of defense, the location, from an Indian point
of view, was an excellent one, since with them elevation
constitutes the principal means of defense. The terraces could be
easily ascended from but one point, where an enemy could be
easily resisted. In a general way, it may be regarded as a
representative of Yucatan buildings, and so we will be able to
more rapidly describe the remaining structures.

Plan of Nunnery.

On the general plan we see, to the north of the structure we have
just described, a group of ruins marked “C.” This is regarded as
the most wonderful collection of edifices in Yucatan, and as
exhibiting the highest state of ancient architecture and
sculpture in North America. They are known as the “Nunnery,”
which we think is a very absurd name. The pyramid on which they
stood is also terraced, though on one side only. We give a
drawing showing the position on the summit platform of the four
buildings forming this group. Since we have so many ruined
structures to describe, we must avoid such details as will prove
tiresome. We will give in a note the dimensions of these
buildings, and of the pyramid, and pass at once to some points of
special interest.47

Traces of stairways are mentioned as leading up to the terrace,
but none of the steps remained in place. The southern building is
seen to have doors in both the court and terrace walls, but in
this case the middle wall is unbroken. All the rooms of this
building are single. In the plan it appears divided into two
buildings; the opening is, however, but a triangular arched
doorway, through which access was had to the court.

There is no one to dispute our right of way, and so, climbing up
the ruined stairs, and passing through the deserted gateway, we
emerge into a courtyard, now silent and deserted and overgrown
with bushes and grass. It was once paved and covered with cement,
and in the center are the remains of a stone pillar, similar to
that in front of the governor’s house. When the houses were all
occupied this court must have presented an animated scene. But,
now that the buildings are tenantless and going to ruin, it must
impress all beholders with a sense of the changes wrought by
time.

Room in Nunnery.

It will be noticed that the northern building does not stand in
quite the same direction as the southern one, which detracts from
the symmetry of the whole. It stands on a fourth terrace, twenty
feet higher than the others. A grand, but ruined, staircase leads
up the center of the terrace. At each end of this staircase built
against the terrace, could be distinguished the ruins of a small
building. There is one unusual feature about the ruins in the
eastern building. In general, only two rooms open into each
other. In this building, however, six rooms form one suite, and,
furthermore, all the doorways of this suite are decorated with
sculpture. As this suite of rooms was evidently a place of
interest, we will introduce this illustration, which gives us a
good idea of the appearance of the rooms on the inside. We would
do well to compare this cut with that of the room in Pueblo
Bonito. The arched roof is not a true arch but simply the
triangular arch we have already spoken of.

Façade, Southern Building.

The principal attraction about these buildings is the beautiful
façades which overlook the court-yard. They are pronounced by all
to be the finest examples of native American art. With one
exception, they are neither complicated nor grotesque, but chaste
and artistic. As in the Governor’s House, the part below the
cornice is plain, but the remaining part, both front and rear, is
covered with sculpture. On entering the court-yard from the
arched gateway of the southern building, we notice that its
façade is composed of diamond lattice-work and vertical columns,
while over each doorway is something that resembles a house, with
a human figure seated in a doorway. This cut represents but a
small portion of this façade, but it gives us an idea of the
whole.

Façade, Eastern Building.

The façade of the eastern building was in the best state of
preservation of any. We give a section of this also. The
ornaments over the doorway, shown in the cut, consist of three of
those mysterious masks, with the projecting curved stone, already
described. “The ornaments over the other doorways are less
striking, more simple, and more pleasing. In all of them there
is, in the center, a masked face, with the tongue hanging out,
surmounted by an elaborate head-dress. Between the horizontal
bars is a range of diamond-shaped ornaments, in which the remains
of red paint are still distinctly visible, and at each end of
these bars is a serpent’s head, with the mouth wide open.” It is
necessary to examine the drawing attentively, to distinguish
these features. Some think the masked face represents the sun.

Serpent Façade, Western Building.

The western façade is known as the Serpent Façade. It was very
much in ruins at the time of Mr. Stephens’s visit. When entire,
it must have been of great beauty. Two serpents are trailed along
the whole front, and by the interlacing of their bodies divide
the surface into square panels. In the open mouth of these
serpents is sculptured a human head. The panels are filled with
ornaments similar in design to those of the “Governor’s House,”
and among the ornaments of each panel are found one or more human
faces, while full-sized figures are not entirely absent. This cut
represents but a small portion of the façade. It gives us,
however, an idea of the whole. We notice, over the doorway again,
the elephant’s trunk ornament.

The northern building, standing high above the rest, on its own
terrace, was doubtless intended to have the grandest front of
all. It was, however, in such a ruined state, and the few
remaining fragments so complicated, that no drawings have been
given us. Human figures are represented in several places; two
are apparently playing on musical instruments. We recall that at
Palenque, the roof of some of the temples bears a curious
two-storied work, erected apparently for ornamental purposes. The
same instinct reappears in this building. At regular intervals
along the front they carried the wall above the cornice, forming
thirteen turret-like elevations ten feet wide, and seventeen feet
high. These turrets were also loaded with ornaments. Another
curious feature about this building is, that it was erected over,
and completely inclosed, a smaller building of an older date.
Wherever the outer walls have fallen, the ornamented cornice of
the inner building is visible.

When we reflect on the patient labor that must have been expended
on this pyramid and these buildings, we are filled with
admiration for their perseverance and ingenuity. They had neither
domestic animals or metallic tools. The buildings were massively
built and richly ornamented. The sculptured portion covers over
twenty-four thousand square feet.48 The terraced mound supporting
the house contained over sixty thousand cubic yards of materials,
though this may not be wholly artificial. To our eyes, as these
rooms had neither windows nor fire-places, they are not very
desirable. But we may be sure that the builders considered them
as models of their kind.

Leaving this interesting ruin, we will now visit one of the
temples. This is east of the Nunnery, and is marked “D” on the
plan. The mound on which this building stands is high enough to
overlook the entire field of ruins. This cut represents the
eastern side of the mound, up which a flight of stone steps lead
to the building on the summit. There are some grounds for
supposing a grander staircase, supported on triangular arches,
led up the western side.

Temple, Uxmal.

The building on the top is not large—only seventy-two feet long,
and twelve feet wide—and consists of but three rooms, none
opening into each other. The front of the building, though much
ruined, presented an elegant and tasteful appearance. There seems
to be no doubt that this temple was the scene of idolatrous
worship; perhaps of human sacrifices. In a legal paper which Mr.
Stephens saw at Meridia, containing a grant of the lands on which
these ruins stand, bearing date 1673, it is expressly stated that
the Indians at that time had idols in these ancient buildings, to
which, every day, openly and publicly, they burned copal. Nor is
there any doubt that this was the continuation of an old custom.
In the end room of this temple are engraved two circular figures
which, by some, are considered as proofs of the presence of
Phallic worship.49

The buildings we have described will give us a very good idea of
the structures of this ancient city. We have described but a few
of them, but we have now only space to make some general
observations. We wish to point out some resemblances to the ruins
at Palenque. In both, buildings that served as temples were not
large, but of small dimensions, and contained but few rooms. They
occupy the summits of high pyramids. Such was probably the
building on the summit of the pyramid at “F” (see plan). The
buildings on the top of this pyramid, like that just described,
had but three rooms. A very large pyramid is seen at “E.” Our
information in regard to it is very meager. A square platform was
found on the summit. It is not unreasonable to suppose that this
platform was intended to support a temple. But, before it was
erected, the presence of the Spaniards put an end to all native
building. There are, however, no proofs to be advanced in support
of this statement; it is a mere suggestion.

We think the House of the Nuns illustrates the general plan of
building employed at both places. That is as follows: They first
erected a rectangular pyramid or mounds often terraced. Buildings
were then put up parallel to the four sides, thus inclosing a
court. At Palenque this court, as we have seen, was built over.
Besides the House of Nuns, there are several other instances at
Uxmal of courts with buildings on their sides. Looking at the
plan, we see one at “G,” and a still more ruined one between that
and “F.” Such a court, with traces of ruined buildings, also
exists between the nunnery and the temple, at “D.” It is not
improbable that groups of low ruins existing to the westward of
the structures described would be found, on examination, to
reveal the same arrangements.

As for the grand terraced pyramid supporting the Governor’s
House, it may well be that other buildings would have been added
in process of time, as population increased. It is not necessary
to suppose they erected all the buildings around a court at once.
It seems very reasonable to suppose the northern building of the
House of Nuns the oldest. The direction is not quite the same as
the others; it stands on a higher terrace; and, furthermore, the
present exterior walls are simply built around the older
building. It may be, however, that the great terraced mound of
the Governor’s House was intended to support but one building. As
there is the best of reason for supposing that Uxmal was
inhabited at the time of the conquest, there is nothing to forbid
the conclusion that the erection of pyramids, temples, and
buildings was still going on.

Hieroglyphics, which formed such an interesting feature at
Palenque, are here almost entirely wanting. A few rows occur
around the head of the figure over the principal doorway of the
Governor’s House. They are of the same general character as those
already described, but are “more rich, elaborate, and
complicated.” As to the probable antiquity of these ruins, we
must defer consideration until we become more acquainted with the
ruins of Yucatan.

The places we have now described will make us acquainted with the
general character of the ruins scattered all over Yucatan. We do
not feel as if we would be justified in dwelling at any great
length over the remainder, though one or two important places
must be mentioned. A word as to the frequency with which the
ruins occur. We want to repeat that Yucatan, even to this day, is
far from being thoroughly explored. Almost our only source of
information is the writings of Mr. Stephens. But he only
described a few places. In a trip of thirty-nine miles he took in
a westerly direction from Uxmal he saw no less than seven
different groups of ruins. Some of these, though in a very
dilapidated state, presented points of great interest. When he
started he knew of but few of those ruins. Some he heard of quite
by accident while on his way, and some he first saw as he
journeyed along the road. We must suppose the whole country
equally well supplied.

After he had left Uxmal for good, at the village of Nochahab (see
map), a little inquiry brought him information of so many ruins
that he did not have time to visit them all. As to the question
of use to which these buildings were applied, we must either
suppose they had an immense number of temples and palaces—one or
the other every few miles—or else they were the residences of the
people themselves. And, though it may seem very strange that an
imperfectly developed people should ornament so profusely and
delicately their ordinary places of abode,50 yet it is difficult
to understand why they should rear such an abundance of temples
and palaces.

At Kabah (see map) Mr. Stephens found a most interesting field of
ruins, rivaling Uxmal in extent, if not surpassing it. One group
of buildings, arranged much like the House of Nuns, has some
interesting features about it. The highest terrace in this case
is nearly square, and the building on its summit is nearly the
same shape. We have here two rows of double rooms, separated by a
middle wall, very massive, as if two of the typical Maya
buildings had been placed back to back. The front of this
building was elaborately ornamented. In all the buildings at
Uxmal the part above the cornice only was ornamented. Here the
entire front was covered with carved stone. To make room for
further ornaments the roof bore an additional appendage, like the
second story of the Palenque temples. This building must have
presented a wonderful appearance when entire.

Another feature at this place has reference to the pyramid. We
are familiar with the idea of a terraced mound supporting
buildings. In one of these Kabah structures the buildings are
arranged in a different and suggestive way. That is, the pyramid
was terraced off. There were three ranges of buildings, the roof
of one range forming a promenade in front of the other. In
another of the Kabah structures was found a wooden lintel,
elegantly carved. Mr. Stephens tells us the lines were clear and
distinct, and the cutting, under any test, and without any
reference to the people by whom it was executed, would be
considered as indicating great skill and proficiency in the art
of carving on wood. At the expense of a great deal of hard work,
he succeeded in getting this lintel out and removed to New York,
where it was unfortunately destroyed by fire.

They worked stone to better advantage at Kabah than at Uxmal. For
the first time we meet with lintels of stone and a doorway with
carved jambs. The lintels were supported in the center by a
pillar. The pillars were rude and unpolished, but they were not
out of proportion, and, in fact, were adapted to the lowness of
the building. We will only mention one more structure. This is a
lonely arch, of the same form as all the rest, having a span of
fourteen feet. It stands on a ruined mound, disconnected from
every other structure, in solitary grandeur. “Darkness rests upon
its history, but in that desolation and solitude, among the ruins
around, it stood like the proud memorial of a Roman triumph.”
There was the usual pyramid with a temple. In a plan given of the
field of ruins seventeen groups are seen, and, without a doubt,
many more exist in the immediate forest.

Arch, Kabah.

M. Charney has of late years made a discovery which conclusively
shows that this was an inhabited place at the time of the
conquest. In a room as ruined as the rest he discovered the
stucco-figure of a horse and its rider. They are formed after the
Indian manner by an inexperienced hand guided by an over-excited
imagination. Both figures are easily recognized. The horse has on
its trappings. We can see the stirrups. The man wears his
cuirass. We all know what astonishment the appearance of men on
horseback produced among the Indians, and so we are not at a loss
to divine the cause which led to the construction of this figure.
We must remember Mr. Stephens was hurried for time. Portions of
this figure were mutilated, and other portions had been covered
over by a layer of stucco, which Charney had to remove before the
figure could be distinctly made out.51

Zayi.

Within a radius of ten miles from Kabah are located no less than
six so-called cities. The general appearance of all is the
same—low ranges of buildings on terraced mounds, and ornamented
façades. One of these places, by the name of Zayi, is of interest
to us, because it gives us a hint as to how these people
constructed their buildings. Amongst other buildings they found
one large terraced mound, with buildings arranged on it in a very
significant manner. There were three ranges of buildings, one
over the other—the roof of one range on a level with the
foundation of the range above. A grand stair-way led up the
mound. This feature is illustrated in the plate above. We can
imagine what a grand appearance must have been presented by this
great terraced mound, when its buildings were all perfect.

Plan of Zayi. (Bureau of Ethnology.)

The plan of this mound and buildings is shown in the last cut.
Ten rooms on the north side of the second range presented a
curious feature. They were all filled up with a solid mass of
stone and mortar, and this filling up must have gone on as fast
as the walls rose, and the arched ceiling must have closed over a
solid mass. A very reasonable explanation is given of this state
of things by Mr. Morgan.52 He considers that such was the
rudeness of mechanical knowledge among these people that the only
way they could construct their peculiar arched roof was to build
it over an internal core of masonry. Once put together over such
a core, and carried up several feet, the down weight of the arch
would articulate and hold the mass together. Then the core of
masonry would be cleaned out, and the room was ready for use. If
this be true, it follows that these rooms were the last erected.
They were not yet cleared out when the operations of the
Spaniards put an end to all native building. We must notice the
structures at Zayi are in as ruined a condition as the
others—thus strengthening the conviction that their abandonment
was at about the time of the conquest of the peninsula.

We have not space to follow Mr. Stephens in all his journey.
Every few miles he came across one of these peculiar structures.
A common design is apparent in all; but all are alike enveloped
in mystery. At Labna he found an extensive field of ruins, equal
in importance to any in Yucatan. The next illustration represents
an arched gateway, which reminds us of that in the “House of
Nuns.” Passing through this he found himself in a ruined
court-yard, fronting which were the remains of buildings; but
this was only one of many groups of ruins, and Labna was but one
of many places visited. At Labphak Mr. Stephens found “the
tottering remains of the grandest structure that now rears its
ruined head in the forests of Yucatan.” This was a terraced
mound, faced by buildings on three sides, leaving an immense
stair-way occupying the fourth side.

Gateway at Labna.

Small interior stair-ways are mentioned in this building, but no
particular description is given of them. At two places sculptured
tablets were found. These tablets are worthy of notice. They were
the only ones Mr. Stephens found, except at Palenque. It will be
seen, on the map, that this ruin is nearer Palenque than any of
the places in Yucatan yet described. Stucco ornaments, so
apparent at the latter place, were now becoming numerous again.
At Uxmal stone for building could be had in the greatest
abundance—it was not as plenty here. The builders, apparently,
adapted their ornamentation to the material at hand; and, while
at Palenque they employed stucco in ornament, at Uxmal they
carved stone.53

We must now leave this interesting section of Yucatan, though
only a few places have been mentioned. The reader is well aware
of the difference of opinion with which these ruins are viewed.
Some of them are unquestionably temples. If we regard the others
as palaces and the public buildings of great cities, we are at
once puzzled to account for their great numbers. If we look on
the majority of them as communal residences of the inhabitants,
we are amazed at the mass of decorations with which they are
adorned. But our admiration stops there—we are accustomed to
speak of them as stately edifices. This is owing to their
exterior ornaments, and their position on terraced mounds. The
houses are often of great length, but not striking in other
regards. The rooms, in the majority of cases, are small, low,
dark, and ill ventilated. A great amount of useless labor was
bestowed upon the walls, which were unnecessarily massive.

Near the center of the northern part of the peninsula is seen a
place marked Chichen, to which is generally added the word Itza,
making the entire name of the place Chichen-Itza. In this case
the ancient Maya name has come down to us with the ruins—Chichen
meaning the “mouth of wells,” having reference to two springs
which supplied the place with water. Itza is the name of a branch
of the Maya people. This place is of interest to us in several
ways. It was, unquestionably, a renowned city in aboriginal
times. Here the Spaniards met with a very severe repulse. As a
ruin it attracted the attention of early writers, and it has been
the subject of antiquarian research in recent times. The
description of the buildings will not detain us long. They are,
evidently, the work of the same people as those whose structures
we have already described.

One of the most important buildings is known as the Nunnery,
reminding us at once of the collection of buildings of that name
at Uxmal. In this case, however, the pyramid is represented by a
solid mass of masonry one hundred and twelve by one hundred and
sixty feet, rising with perpendicular sides to the height of
thirty-two feet. This is seen to be a departure from the method
of constructing pyramids hitherto described. The proprietor of
the estate on whose grounds these ruins are located used this
mound as a stone-quarry. An excavation of thirty feet revealed no
secret chambers.

The probabilities are that it is solid throughout. A grand
staircase, fifty-six feet wide, leads up to the top of this
mound. Mr. Stephens tells us that three ranges of buildings
occupied the summit, and his drawings represent the same. The
roof of the one forms a promenade in front of the one above. So
each range of buildings rests on a foundation solid from the
ground. Mr. Bancroft describes this mound as having but two
ranges of buildings on the summit. Of these buildings the second
range was, seemingly, the most important. Several of its rooms
contained niches in the back wall, extending from floor to
ceiling. From traces still visible, they were once covered with
painted ornaments. One of the rooms was fifty-seven feet long and
nine wide.

In the rear wall of this room were nine of these niches. “All of
the walls of this room, from the floor to the peak of the arch,
had been covered with painted designs, now wantonly defaced, but
the remains of which present colors, in some places, still bright
and vivid; and among these remains detached portions of human
figures continually reappear, well drawn, the heads adorned with
plumes of feathers and the hands bearing shields and spears.” To
this pile of masonry, at one end, a wing had been attached. This
building was similar in design to other buildings in Yucatan.
Theoretically we would expect this wing to be much later in time
than the buildings on the mound. That it is so, is proven by the
fact that in two rooms the internal core of masonry, as described
at Zayi, had not been wholly removed.

We have noticed in all these structures, the builders first threw
up a mound or pyramid to support the building. In one of the
Chichen edifices the earth had been excavated from all around it,
so as to still present the appearance of a mound. Perhaps the
most prominent object at this place is a stately pyramid, with an
imposing building, represented in the plate below. The mound
itself is nearly two hundred feet square, and rises to the height
of seventy-five feet. On the west and north sides are ruined
staircases.

Castillo, Chichen-Itza.

On the ground, at the foot of the stairway on the north side,
“forming a bold, striking, and well conceive commencement to this
lofty range, are two colossal serpents’ heads, ten feet in
length, with mouths wide open, and tongues protruding. No doubt
they were emblematic of some religious belief, and, in the mind
of an imaginative people passing between them, to ascend the
steps, must have excited feelings of solemn awe.” The temple on
the summit of this pyramid has some peculiar features about it.
It is nearly square—forty-three by forty-nine feet—only one door
in each side. In the room within, instead of partition walls
supporting arches, were two immense beams, resting on square
pillars, and supporting two arches—the only instance in the ruins
of Yucatan of such use of beams.

Gymnasium at Chichen-Itza.