Chapter II: Part 2

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If he chooses to go to the expense of his own carriage and horses, he will certainly ensure to himself much independence; especially if he takes care to select a judicious route. For a party also, this would perhaps be as cheap a mode as can well be adopted. But if he is a single traveller, or with one companion, and not averse to pedestrianism, then he may find a general facility by taking the direct and cross coaches from station to station, hiring horses for long excursions, and walking those of a shorter range. Before leaving Dublin, Belfast, or Waterford, the three points from whence an English tourist is likely to start, let him make a fair calculation of time and distance, allow a certain sum per mile and a certain sum per day, and then supply his purse with the paper and coined currency most likely to answer in the district he intends to visit. This he will not find difficult at the places mentioned, or indeed at any of the larger towns; but let him be on his guard against bad money and forged notes; and also, if he has any Irish currency left at the end of his tour, let him change it for English when setting off to return.

It now only remains to add, that every writer, both ancient and modern, on the subject of Ireland, has been consulted; aided by the communications of friends and a general personal knowledge of the Topography of Ireland on the part of the Editor.

The tourist will observe that the distances are given in Irish miles, of which, eleven are equal to fourteen English. The distances of the county towns from the capital are taken on the authority of the latest surveys; whilst the distances in the vicinage of the several stations are from common computation or from the best maps, and may be depended on for every useful purpose to the inquisitive traveller, bearing in mind that bogs and mountains often render roads circuitous, in which cases local inquiry, and also for the best roads, will often be beneficial, and sometimes necessary. Reference to many of the authorities will be found in the work itself; but it may be added that the county surveys have been carefully examined and compared with earlier descriptions, independent of the general notices from Hoare, Hall, Plumptre, Curwen, Drummond, Weld, and all the recent topographical works, together with several recent anonymous tours, whose proved accuracy, in many points, renders them worthy of notice in all.

TOPOGRAPHICAL DIVISION OF IRELAND,

_With the Baronies, Parishes, and Contents in Irish Acres._

_Baron._ _Parish._ _Acres._
{ *Armagh contains 5 20 181,450
{ Down 8 60 348,550
ULSTER. { Antrim 8 77 387,200
_9 Counties._ { Londonderry 4 31 318,500
8298 { Donnegal 5 42 679,550
square miles. { *Tyrone 4 35 463,700
{ Fermanagh 8 18 283,450
{ *Cavan 7 30 301,000
{ *Monaghan 5 19 179,600
-- --- ----------
54 332 3,143,000
_Lough Neagh_ covers 58,200
----------
3,201,200
----------

{ Louth 4 61 110,750
{ Meath 12 147 327,900
{ Dublin 6 107 142,050
{ Wicklow 6 58 311,600
LEINSTER. { Wexford 8 142 342,900
_12 Counties._ { *Kilkenny 9 127 300,350
6936 { *Carlow 5 50 137,050
square miles. { *Kildare 10 113 236,750
{ *Queen's County 8 50 235,300
{ *King's County 11 52 282,200
{ *Westmeath 12 62 231,550
{ *Longford 6 23 134,150
-- --- ---------
97 992 2,792,550
-- --- ---------

CONNAUGHT. { Galway 16 116 989,950
_5 Counties._ { Mayo 9 68 790,600
7125 { Sligo 6 39 247,150
square miles. { Leitrim 5 17 255,950
{ *Roscommon 6 56 346,650
-- --- ---------
42 296 2,630,300
-- --- ---------

{ Cork 16 269 1,048,800
MUNSTER. { Kerry 8 83 647,650
_6 Counties._ { Clare 9 79 476,200
9000 { Limerick 9 125 386,750
square miles. { *Tipperary 10 186 554,950
{ Waterford 7 74 262,800
-- --- ---------
69 816 3,377,150
--- ----- ----------
252 2,436 12,001,200†

* The thirteen _inland_ counties are distinguished by an asterisk.

† All fractions having been excluded from this calculation, it is very
much _under_ the full number of acres in Ireland.

An Irish Acre contains 7840 square yards.
Scotch 6130 ditto.
English 4840 ditto.

From Port Patrick to Donaghadee 25 English miles.
Holyhead to Dublin 63 ditto.
Milford Haven to Waterford 85 ditto.

No part of Ireland is more than fifty miles from the sea.

ECCLESIASTICAL DIVISION OF IRELAND.

_The Province of_ ARMAGH _contains Ten Dioceses*._

663 Parishes, 446 Churches.

†16 Abpk. of Armagh 11 Bpk. of Raphoe
23 Bpk. of Dromore 9 ---- of Clogher
7 ---- of Down } 12 ---- of Kilmor
---- of Connor} _united._ 22 ---- of Ardagh‡
6 ---- of Derry 5 ---- of Meath

_The Province of_ DUBLIN _contains Five Dioceses._

658 Parishes, 217 Churches.

15 Abpk. of Dublin 3 Bpk. of Ferns }
21 Bpk. of Kildare ---- of Leighlin} _united._
20 ---- of Ossory

_The Province of_ CASHEL _contains Eleven Dioceses._

839 Parishes, 254 Churches.

17 Abpk. of Cashel} 8 Bpk. of Cloyne
Bpk. of Emly } _united._ 2 ---- of Limerick}
19 ---- of Waterford} ---- of Ardfert } _united._
---- of Lismore } _united._ and Aghadoe }
14 ---- of Cork} 4 ---- of Killaloe }
---- of Ross} _united._ ---- of Kilfenora} _united._

_The Province of_ TUAM _contains Six Dioceses._

276 Parishes, 87 Churches.

1 Abpk. of Tuam 18 Bpk. of Elphin
21 Bpk. of Clonfert } 10 ---- of Killalla
---- of Killmacduagh} _united._ ---- of Achonry.

* The dioceses are placed with respect to contiguity, not
according to rank; for the bishop of _Meath_ has precedence of all
bishops, and next to him _Kildare_; the other bishops take place
according to the date of their consecration.

† The figures indicate the order in comparative extent of
each diocese.

‡ _Ardagh_, though in this province, is at present annexed
to the archbishoprick of _Tuam_.

LEGAL DIVISION OF IRELAND.

CIRCUITS OF THE JUDGES.

_The Assize Towns are marked with an Asterisk, thus_, (*).

MUNSTER CIRCUIT.

CONNAUGHT CIRCUIT.

† At Ballinrobe generally in the Spring, and at Castlebar in the
Summer.

LEINSTER CIRCUIT.

† At Nass generally in the Spring, and at Athy in the Summer.

ULSTER, _North East_.

ULSTER, _North West_.

HOME CIRCUIT.

TO CARLOW.

From Carlow, Grangemellon, Andrie, _Athy_.

From Athy, Stradbally, _Maryborough_.

From Maryborough, Portarlington, Clonegowan, Geshil, _Philipstown_.

From Philipstown, Terrilspass, Rochfort, _Mullingar_.

From Mullingar, Killucan, Raharney, _Trim_.

COMPARATIVE HEIGHT
OF
THE CHIEF MOUNTAINS IN IRELAND,
_Above the Level of the Sea_.

_Eng. feet._

_M'Gillicuddy's Reeks_, Co. of Kerry, 3404

_Sleibh Dorm_, Co. of Londonderry, 3150

_Knockmeledown_[2], dividing Cork, Tipperary, and Waterford, 2700

_Croagh Patrick_, Co. of Mayo, 2666

_Nephin_, Ditto, 2640

_Mangerton_, above the Lake of Killarney, Co. Kerry, 2505

_Mourne Hills_, Co. of Down, 2500

_Commerach Ridge_, Co. Waterford, 2160

_Croaghan Kinshelly_, Bar. of Arklow, 1850

_Sawell_, Co. of Londonderry, 1600

_Slenish Mountain_, Co. of Antrim, 1390

_Alt-English-Hill_, Co. of Londonderry, 1300

_Benbradagh_, Co. of Londonderry, 1300

_Benyevenach_, Ditto, 1250

_Sleibh Gallan_, Ditto, 1250

_Donald's Hill_, Ditto, 1200

_Kedy_, Ditto, 1100

_Croneham_, Co. of Wicklow, 1000

_Croaghmore_, Co. of Antrim, 600

ISLE OF MAN.

_Inafel_, in centre of the Island, 1740

[2] On the top of this mountain Henry Eles by his own desire was buried; he was an ingenious man, and published several tracts on electricity.

[From Rees's _Cyclopedia_.]

LIST _of_ ROUND TOWERS; _principally extracted from_ Dr. Beaufort's
Memoir, _with an indication of those he had seen marked with an
Asterisk_.

Key:
_Ht._ = Height in Feet.
_Cf._ = Circumf.
_Th._ = Thickness of Walls.
_Dr._ = Door from ground.

In ULSTER, 9. |_Ht._|_Cf._|_Th._|_Dr._
+-----+-----+-----+-----
_Antrim_, near *Antrim, at a place called | | | |
Steeple. | | | |
at Armoy. | | | |
in *Ram Island, in Lough Neagh | | | |
_Cavan_, at Drumlane. | | | |
_Down_, at *Drumbo. | | | |
at *Maghera, half only is standing | | | |
_Fermanagh_, in *Devenish Island, in | | | |
Lough Erne | 76 | 41 | 3-6 |
_Monaghan_, at Clones. | | | |
at *Eniskeen. | | | |
| | | |
In LEINSTER, 26. | | | |
| | | |
_Dublin_, at *Clondalkin | 84 | | |
at *Lusk. | | | |
at Rathmichael. | | | |
at *Swords | 73 | 55 | 4-8 | 2
_Kildare_, at *Castledermot. | | | |
at *Killcullen | 40 | 44 | 3-6 | 7
at *Kildare | 132 | 54 | 3-6 | 13
at Oughterard | 25 | 48 | 3 | 8
at Taghadoe | 71 | 38 | 3-8 | 11-6
_Kilkenny_, at *Aghavuller, part only | | | |
remaining. | | | |
at Fertagh, alias Beggar's Inn | 112 | 48 | 3-8 | 10
at *Kilkenny, or rather in | | | |
Irishtown. | | | |
at Kilree. | | | |
at Tulloherin. | | | |
_King's County_, at *Clonmacnoise--two | | | |
_Louth_, at *Dromiskin, part of one | 130 | | |
at *Monasterboice | 110 | 51 | 3-6 | 6
_Meath_, at *Donaghmore. | | | |
at *Kells | 99 | 48 | 3 |
_Monaghan_, at Clones--one perfect, one | | | |
ruinous. | | | |
_Queen's County_, at *Dysert. | | | |
at *Timahoe | 35 | 53 | 4-4 | 14
_Wicklow_, at Glandelough--two, one of | | | |
them perfect. | | | |
| | | |
In MUNSTER, 14. | | | |
| | | |
_Clare_, at *Drumcliff. | | | |
at *Dysart. | | | |
in Iniscalthra, in Lough Deirgeart | | | |
in Scattery Isle, in the Shannon | 120 | | |
_Cork_, at *Cloyne | 92 | 50 | 3-8 | 13
at *Ballybeg, the stump of one. | | | |
at Kineth | 70 | | |
_Kerry_, at *Aghadoe. | | | |
at Rattoo. | | | |
_Limerick_, at *Dysert. | | | |
at *Kilmallock. | | | |
_Tipperary_, at *Cashel on the Rock | | 54 | 4 | 11
at *Roscrea | 80 | 45 | |
_Waterford_, at Ardmore | 100 | 45 | |
| | | |
In CONNAUGHT, 9. | | | |
| | | |
_Galway_, at Feartamore. | | | |
at *Kilmacduagh | 112 | 57 | | 24
_Mayo_, at Aghagower. | | | |
at Ballagh. | | | |
at *Killalla. | | | |
at *Melick. | | | |
at *Turlough | 70 | 45 | | 29
_Roscommon_, at Oran. | | | |
_Sligo_, at *Drumcliffe, the ruin of one. | | | |

These towers are all standing; there were five others still perfect within a few years.

1. Co. Down, at _Downpatrick_, lately taken down[3], was 66 feet high, 47 in circumference.

[3] The round tower of Downpatrick was taken down, in order to enlarge the west end of the cathedral, which is now repairing, after having lain in ruins for a great number of years. And it is very remarkable, that under the foundations of this tower, were found the vestiges of a more ancient church, which appears to have been of exceeding good masonry, and upon a larger scale than the present old fabrick; in the walls of which there are many pieces of cut stone, that have evidently been used in some former building. The same circumstance may also be observed in several of the ruined churches at Clonmacnoise.

2. Co. Dublin, in _Ship-street_, Dublin, destroyed a few years since.

3. Co. Cork, at _Cork_, pulled down about fifty years.

4. Ditto, at _Brigown_, not long down.

5. Co. Kerry, at _Ardfert_, which fell in 1770.

A very ingenious friend remarks[4], that almost all our round towers are divided into stories of different heights; the floors supported in some by projecting stones, in others, joists put in the wall at building, and in many they are placed upon rests. The last are from four to six inches, carried round and taken off the thickness of the wall in the story above; and he very probably conjectures that these rests do not diminish the thickness of the wall as they ascend, because then it would not have been sufficiently strong to bear storms or support the conical cap which was generally solid and heavily constructed. They seem therefore to be swellings in the wall which rather add to its thickness upwards, and this Mr. Cooper confirms by the round tower at _Lusk_, whose wall is three feet thick at top. _Cashel_ tower is divided into five stories, with holes for joists.

[4] From Ledwich's _Antiquities of Ireland_.

_Fertagh_ has five stories and one rest.--_Kilcullen_ has three stories and one rest.--_Kildare_ has six stories and projecting stones for each.--_Monasterboice_ has six stories and projecting stones.--_Oughterard_ has five stories and projecting stones.--_Taghadoe_ has six stories, the upper has projecting stones, the others rests.--_Timahoe_ has seven stories, the second has projecting stones, the others rests.

The door of _Cashel Tower_ faces the S.E., those of _Kildare_ and _Kilkenny_ the S., and the others vary.

Four small windows were placed at the top of _Kells Tower_ pointing to the four cardinal points.

_Kenith Tower_ stands 124 feet--_Drumbo_ 20 feet--_Downpatrick_ 48 feet--_Kildare_ 90 feet--_Kilkenny_ 8 feet--_Dromiskin_ 90 feet, from their respective Churches. _Ardmore_, _Castledermot_, _Cloyne_, and other _Towers_ were formerly and at present are used for belfries.

GLOSSARY,

_Or Explanation of some of those Irish Words which most frequently occur in composition with the names of places._

_Agh_, a Field.

_Anagh_ or _Ana_, a River.

_Ard_, a high Place, or rising Ground.

_Ath_, a Ford.

_Awin_, a River.

_Bally_ or _Ballin_, a Town, or inclosed place of habitation.

_Ban_ or _Bane_, White, or Fair.

_Beg_, Little.

_Ben_, the summit of a Mountain, generally an abrupt head.

_Bun_, a Bottom, Foundation, or Root.

_Car_ or _Cahir_, a city.

_Carrick_, _Carrig_, _Carrow_, a Rock or Stony Place.

_Cork_, _Corcagh_, a Marsh, or swampy Ground.

_Clara_, a Plain.

_Croagh_, _Croghan_, a sharp pointed Hill resembling a Rick.

_Clogh_, _Clough_, a great Stone.

_Curragh_, a marshy or fenny Plain.

_Clon_, a Glade, or a level Pasture Ground.

_Col_, _Cul_, a Corner.

_Derry_, a clear dry Spot in the midst of a woody swamp.

_Don_, a Height or Fastness, a Fortress.

_Donagh_, a Church.

_Drom_, a high narrow Ridge of Hills.

_Inch_, _Inis_, an Island.

_Ken_, a Head.

_Kill_, a Church or Cemetery.

_Knock_, a single Hill, or a Hillock.

_Lick_, a flat stone.

_Lough_, a Lake, or a Pool.

_Magh_, a Plain.

_Main_, a Collection of Hillocks.

_More_, large, great.

_Rath_, a Mount or Entrenchment, a Barrow.

_Ross_, a Point of Land projecting into Waters.

_Shan_, Old.

_Sliebh_, a range of Mountain, a Hill _covered with Heath_.

_Tach_, a House.

_Temple_, a Church.

_Tom_, _Toom_, a Bush.

_Tra_, a Strand.

_Tobar_, _Tubber_, a Well or Spring.

_Tullagh_, a gentle Hill, a Common.

_Tully_, a Place subject to Floods.

TABLE _showing the Difference in Value of_ ENGLISH _and_ IRISH CURRENCY.

English Money exchanged into ||Irish Money exchanged into
Irish, at Par: One Pound || English, at Par: 1Ɩ. 1s. 8d.
English being 1Ɩ. ls. 8d. Irish.|| Irish being 1Ɩ. English.
-----+----------+----+------------++-----+-------------+-----+--------
Eng. | Irish |Eng.| Irish ||Irish| English |Irish|English
-----+----------+----+------------++-----+-------------+-----+--------
£ | £ s. d.| s. | s. d. q. || £ | £ s. d. q.| s. |s. d. q.
900 |975 0 0 | 3 | 3 3 0 || 900 |830 15 4 2 | 4 | 3 8 1
800 |866 13 4 | 4 | 4 4 0 || 800 |738 9 2 3 | 5 | 4 7 1
700 |758 6 8 | 5 | 5 5 0 || 700 |646 3 0 3 | 6 | 5 6 1
600 |650 0 0 | 6 | 6 6 0 || 600 |553 16 11 0 | 7 | 6 5 2
500 |541 13 4 | 7 | 7 7 0 || 500 |461 10 9 0 | 8 | 7 4 2
400 |433 6 8 | 8 | 8 8 0 || 400 |369 4 7 1 | 9 | 8 3 2
300 |325 0 0 | 9 | 9 9 0 || 300 |276 18 5 2 | 10 | 9 2 3
200 |216 13 4 |10 |10 10 0 || 200 |184 12 3 2 | 11 |10 1 3
100 |108 6 8 |11 |11 11 0 || 100 | 92 6 1 3 | 12 |11 0 3
90 | 97 10 0 |12 |13 0 0 || 90 | 83 1 6 1 | 13 |12 0 0
80 | 86 13 4 |13 |14 1 0 || 80 | 73 16 11 0 | 14 |12 11 0
70 | 75 16 8 |14 |15 2 0 || 70 | 64 12 3 2 | 15 |13 10 0
60 | 65 0 0 |15 |16 3 0 || 60 | 55 7 8 1 | 16 |14 9 0
50 | 54 3 4 |16 |17 4 0 || 50 | 46 3 0 3 | 17 |15 8 1
40 | 43 6 8 |17 |18 5 0 || 40 | 36 18 5 2 | 18 |16 7 1
30 | 32 10 0 | |19 6 0 || 30 | 27 13 10 0 | 19 |17 6 1
20 | 21 13 4 | d. | || 20 | 18 9 2 3 | d. |
10 | 10 16 8 | 1 | 0 1 0 || 10 | 9 4 7 1 | 1 | 0 0 3
9 | 9 15 0 | 2 | 0 2 0 || 9 | 8 6 1 3 | 2 | 0 1 3
8 | 8 13 4 | 3 | 0 3 1 || 8 | 7 7 8 1 | 3 | 0 2 3
7 | 7 11 8 | 4 | 0 4 1 || 7 | 6 9 2 3 | 4 | 0 3 2
6 | 6 10 0 | 5 | 0 5 1 || 6 | 5 10 9 0 | 5 | 0 4 2
5 | 5 8 4 | 6 | 0 6 2 || 5 | 4 12 3 2 | 6 | 0 5 2
4 | 4 6 8 | 7 | 0 7 2 || 4 | 3 13 10 0 | 7 | 0 6 1
3 | 3 5 0 | 8 | 0 8 2 || 3 | 2 15 4 2 | 8 | 0 7 1
2 | 2 3 4 | 9 | 0 9 3 || 2 | 1 16 11 0 | 9 | 0 8 1
1 | 1 1 8 |10 | 0 10 3 || 1 | 0 18 5 2 | 10 | 0 9 0
Sh.| |11 | 0 11 3 || Sh. | | 11 | 0 10 0
19 | 1 0 7 |q. | || 1 | 0 0 11 0 | q. |
1 | 0 1 1 | 1 | 0 6 1 || 2 | 0 1 10 0 | 1 | 0 0 1
2 | 0 2 2 | 2 | 0 0 2 || 3 | 0 2 0 0 | 2 | 0 0 2
| | 3 | 0 0 3 || | | 3 | 0 0 0

Description of FRONTISPIECE and other PLATES, with Directions for
placing them.

_Frontispiece_ _Irish Antiquities_, viz.

1.--Oratory near Killaloe, supposed the oldest and most curious Monuments
in Ireland; they are also to be seen at Glendaloch, Co.
of Wicklow; St. Doulach's near Dublin; at Cashel, Co. of Tipperary;
and Portaferry, Co. of Down.
Vide _Killaloe, Co. of Clare._

2.--Round Tower, a species of building peculiar to Ireland; that at
Swords is here represented. Vide _Swords, Co. Dublin._

3.--Sculptured Cross at Monasterboice, 18 feet high, of which Character
there are several in Ireland--Vide _Drogheda, Co. of Louth._

4.--Chapel, Round Tower, and Cathedral, at Cashel--distant view.
The Chapel is considered one of the most curious in the kingdom.
The situation and antiquity of this place, as well as its picturesque
beauty, constitute it a place of much interest.
Vide _Cashel, Co. of Tipperary._

5.--Hook Tower, founded upon a rock, surrounded by precipices on
one side and shelving rocks on the other; the walls are of amazing
thickness, with stairs to the top. This is similar to Reginald's
Tower, Waterford, and other Danish Round Towers, or Forts,
dispersed over the kingdom. Vide _Fethard, Co. of Wexford._

6.--Giant's Causeway. Vide _Co. of Antrim._

7.--Mountains as they appear in the distance from Dunlow Castle,
Lake of Killarney. Vide _Killarney, Co. of Kerry._

The Vignette.

Map of Ireland _To face Antrim._

View from Warren's Point, near Narrow Water, Newry.
_To face Newry, Co. of Down._

View of Dublin from the Circular Road in the environs, with Richmond
or Sarah Bridge in the foreground
_To face the City of Dublin, on the 2d page of Co. Dublin._

Map and Plan of the Lakes of Killarney, and surrounding objects
_To face Killarney, Co. of Kerry._

View of the Lake and Mountain at Killarney from Lord Kenmare's
seat _To face 4th Page of Co. of Kerry._

View of Eagles Nest, and site of wonderful Echo--Lake of Killarney
_To face 6th Page of Co. of Kerry._

Carlingford Harbour and Castle--a brisk gale
_To face Carlingford, Co. of Louth._

Glendaloch, or Valley of Seven Churches.
_To face Glendaloch, Co. of Wicklow._

IRELAND.

_London. Published by J. Booth, Duke Street, Portland Place, 1818._]

ANTRIM.

42 m. from N. to S. 24 from E. to W. containing 430,000 Irish acres; bounded by the sea on the N. and E., by Down on the S. by Lough Neagh and Derry on the W. It contains much diversified scenery; is mountainous on the northern, and eastern coasts, but extends into fertile plains in the interior. Its great extent of sea coast affords every variety in science and the picturesque; mountains wild, covered with heath and bog, or frowning in abrupt and rugged cliffs; towards Lough Neagh all the mild beauties of cultivation: the vale of the Lagan, between Belfast and Lisburn, cannot be surpassed for beauty, cultivation, elegant villas, bleach-greens, and comfortable cottages, with all the varieties of hill, dale, wood, and water, by any tract of equal extent in the empire. Its ancient inhabitants were the _Darni_, succeeded by the _Dalriadi_, afterwards by the _Ostmen_, and finally by English and Scottish settlers. Lofty hills afford great amusement to the botanist and geologist, particularly the range near Belfast, amongst which Devis is 1400 ft. high; the Cave Hill 1140; Carmony 790; and the Knockagh 903. These and others consist principally of a compact body of limestone rock, over which, extending along the whole coast as far as the Giant's Causeway, a diffusion of vitrifiable stone has been superinduced in a state of softness, now forming a hard basalt, resting generally on a base of variegated sandstone dipping to the W.

ANTRIM, 16 m. from Belfast, 84 m. from Dublin.--On the banks of the Six-mile Water, near its confluence with Lough Neagh, see the Castle, a seat of the Massarene family. 2 m. W. ruins of Shane's Castle; near it, the field where a furious battle was fought in the late rebellion, in which Lord O'Neil fell by the hand of ingratitude; round tower. This ancient Castle has lately become a mass of ruins, in consequence of a most destructive fire; yet it is still worth visiting, being beautifully seated on the banks of Lough Neagh, facing the S.W. the waters of which formerly washed its walls, but were some years ago fenced off by an embankment, on which was erected a handsome green-house. Nothing can be more majestic than the view from the Castle of the vast expanse of water, and the neighbouring banks considerably enriched with trees and verdure, through which are many charming walks and rides. The demesne and park are of great extent, through which a fine stream runs, taking its rise from a small lake 10 m. distant. Near the small lake is an elegant cottage called Remon Lodge, originally fitted up for retirement and shooting-parties, shaded with large venerable trees, and altogether a delightful sequestered spot.

BALLINDERRY, 14 m. S.W. of Belfast.--Neat village. Good station for Lough Neagh; ruins of Portmore Castle. 3 m. N. in the Lough, Ram's Island with a round tower.

BALLYCASTLE, 47 m. N. from Belfast.--Improving sea-port town, with a Colliery. Ruins of the old Castle; Abbey; and Gobbin's Heir, 1 m. S.E. See the Coal-pits and Kelp-works: also the ancient Coal-mine or Gallery lately discovered, supposed to be Danish. Chalybeate Spa. Danish Raths. Romantic scenery round the cliffs, with Raghery Island 6 m. N. in the distant horizon, presenting to the eye of taste, in a fine evening, a singular prospect, with its chalky cliffs crowned by a venerable covering of brown rock, broken into beautiful and picturesque variety by the turbulent ocean. On the road to Portrush a singular little fishing rock, always an object of interest to tourists, called Carrick-a-Rede; connected to the main land by an extraordinary flying bridge over an abrupt and romantic chasm 60 feet in breadth. See also the White Rocks about 1 m. E. from Port Rush, well worth examining, with a beautiful calcareous façade extending about 1/2 a m., capriciously hollowed into a vast number of magnificent caves of various sizes. Also the cliffs of Craigmillar. 5 m. S. Ardmoy village, with neat Ch. and curious round tower: on the road on the right, ruins of an old Castle. See Knocklede, recently a volcano, and Kinfane Castle.

BALLYMENA, 8 m. N. of Antrim.--See Gilgorm Castle, and the Moravian settlement at Grace-hill. Slemish mountain, an interesting object. 5 m. N. is Clough, a small neat village. See the Ch., plain but handsome, with ruins of two Castles.

BALLYMONY, 23 m. N. from Antrim.--Thriving village by linen manufacture. 4 m. N. village of Dervock, with the beautiful seats of Belleisle and Cloverhill. 6 m. E. is Lough Guill. See Ch., and Lissanoure Castle on the banks of the lake, a most romantic mansion and grounds.

BELFAST, 84 m. N. from Dublin.--Flourishing commercial town at head of Carrickfergus Bay. Elegant Ch. and Chapel-of-ease. House of Industry. White and brown Linen-Halls. Academical Institution. Bridge of 21 arches over Lagan, with romantic prospect of the bay and surrounding hills. Exchange and Assembly Rooms. Various charitable Institutions. Philosophical and Musical Societies; the latter for revival of the Harp. Quays and Docks. Glass-houses and Iron-founderies. 3 m. N. the Cave-hill, with caves and romantic scenery, and a most extensive prospect from its summit. Delightful ride towards Carrickfergus, with numerous seats and villas; several Danish raths, and the ruins of White Abbey. 5 m. S.E. of Belfast, near Ballydrain, is the Giant's Ring, an extensive circular earthen mound 2256 feet in circumference, with a Druidical Cromlech in the centre. Near it Collin and Devis mountains, with ancient caves called the "Picts," and fine view of Lough Neagh: across the Lagan 3 m. is the elegant seat of Belvoir.

BENGORE HEAD,--the most northern extremity of the island, and an object in the tour to Giant's Causeway, which it much resembles.

BUSH MILLS, 8 m. N.E. from Coleraine.--The nearest accommodation for the Giant's Causeway. 3 m. N.E. Ruins of Dunluce Castle on a romantic cliff. 3-1/2 m. N.W. the seat of ancient Irish chieftains, and surrounded by the scenery of Ossian's first poem. Take a boat for view of the coast.

CARRICKFERGUS, 8 m. N.E. of Belfast, the county and assize town.--Ancient Castle built by Hugh Lacy, Earl of Ulster, in 1178. Ch. with monuments of the Donnegall family. New Court-house and Gaol. Some remains of an ancient monastery: ancient walls and pier where K. William landed. Romantic scenery towards the N.E. and Island Magee, including Castle Dobbs, and Kilroot where Thurot landed. 3 m. N.W. ruins of Abbey at Monks Town, where tradition points out the grave of King Fergus.

CUSHENDUN, 10 m. from Glenarm.--A small village in a romantic bay; grotesque caves, and a caverned rock on which Red Castle stands: it presents several specimens of whyn dykes to the geologist, containing veins of calcareous spar mixed with coarse-grained basaltes. Between it and Glenarm, about half way, rises the sharp promontory of Garron Point, exhibiting a beautifully diversified trapose outline, and projecting far into the sea, on a limestone base wrought into caverns by the restless surge. A little N. of the point is the romantic vale of Glenariff, containing red sandstone, porphyry intermixed with veins of jasper, and a curious breccia or pudding-stone; but, to the sentimental traveller it is even more interesting; for here he may conceive himself in the genuine country of Ossian, as nearly every romantic object in the vicinity bears a name connected with that hero.

DUNLUCE CASTLE, 5 m. W. of Bushmills.--The most striking ruin on the coast; on an isolated, abrupt rock, perforated by the waves which have formed under it a very spacious cavern. The approach to it is along a narrow wall; but it well repays the risk; its dark basaltic walls marked with the mellow tints of time, in some places forming a perpendicular line with the rock on which it stands, whilst its commanding situation, its numerous gables and turrets, (resembling the ruins of a village destroyed by fire,) excite a high idea of its former magnificence, and a feeling of regret for its lost splendour. It was built probably by De Courcey, afterwards enlarged by native chieftains, and finally by the Macdonnels in the time of Elizabeth. Though in total ruin, a particular chamber is said to be haunted, and to be the favourite abode of Mave Roe, a Banshee or such fictitious personage, who sweeps it every night; but, as Dr. Drummond observes, the sweeping winds that rush through that and the other desolate apartments, will sufficiently account for the cleanness of the room without the aid of supernatural agency.

FAIRHEAD or BENMORE, 4 m. N.E. of Ballycastle.--Is a most interesting object, towering magnificently with its massive columns of basaltes, forming a line of coast the most fantastically beautiful that imagination can conceive. It is strongly characterized by the savage wildness of its cliffs, at whose foot the ocean rages with uncommon fury. Scarce a single mark of vegetation has yet crept over the hard rock to diversify its colour, but one uniform grayness pervades its scenery, contrasting exquisitely with Bengore, about 9 m. distant to the W. The tourist must visit the Fhirleath or Gray Man's Path, a deep chasm dividing the solitary promontory in twain, with its solid walls of rude and threatening columns upwards of 200 feet in perpendicular abruptness.

GIANT'S CAUSEWAY, 8 m. W. from Ballycastle, and about 3 m. N. of Bushmills (the general station for tourists).--Is an object not to be described in small limits, being a most singular geological curiosity and one of Nature's most stupendous productions. Dr. Drummond briefly states it to consist of three moles, composed of basaltic columns projecting into the sea from the middle of the semicircular bay of Port Noffer; the longest of which, called the Grand Causeway, extends in a sloping direction from the base of the cliff about 300 feet, when it is lost in the ocean. The pillars of which the Causeway consists have been estimated at 30000; but that is too small a calculation. These are of different dimensions; 15 to 36 feet in height, and from 15 to 26 inches in diameter, chiefly pentagonal or hexagonal; each consists of joints or pieces concave and convex alternately at the ends. The pillars are a species of basaltes and kind of close grit, vitrifiable, of a dusky hue, contrasting finally with the surrounding verdant scenery, and continued, with interruptions, two miles along the precipitous shore. On the eastern side the Giant's Loom, a colonnade of 36 feet in height; and on the opposite cliff may be seen the Organ, so called from the resemblance to that instrument in the group of columns: also the Giant's Well, Chair, and Theatre, with the King and Parliament. Other objects of curiosity are,--the large rounded masses of irregularly prismatic basalt between the causeways, and the distinct globular concretions at Port Coon, a little to the westward: the curious whyn dyke at the head of the grand causeway: the generally romantic scenery of Port Noffer: then the cave of Port Coon, celebrated for its fine echo, continually resounding to the dash of the waves: the Cave of Dunkerry between Port Coon and the Bushfoot Strand, accessible only from the ocean, between two mural ridges of jet-black rock, with its lofty dome and sides overspread with a covering of green _confervæ_, suggesting the idea that it might have been scooped out of an emerald; a crimson zone of marine plants, five or six feet in breadth, surrounds and adorns it; and its extent has never yet been ascertained, its sides contracting into a narrow cleft where no boat can penetrate, but where the waves are heard rolling to a considerable distance.

GLENARM, 8 m. N. of Larne.--Castle of the Countess of Antrim, still venerable and magnificent, and on the site of an ancient Abbey: from the front is seen the Glen or Great Park 13 m. in circuit; extremely romantic and beautiful; consisting of wood and broken rock, with several waterfalls and salmon-leaps formed by a large serpentine river winding through the grounds, whilst its banks are adorned with various evergreens; myrtles, and the _arbutus_ or strawberry-tree almost continually in blossom. From the park are fine views of the sea; a distant prospect of the Abbey in ruins, and the scenery considerably enriched by the singular appearance of the adjacent mountains, which are cultivated in corn to their very summits. In its vicinity are many rude antiquities, supposed to be of Danish origin.

See the GLENS on the borders of Red Bay, with the ruins of Red Castle, 7 m. N. of Glenarm. The scenery around is very romantic, the village being secluded in a glen, where the limestone shores finely contrast with the azure ocean. To the northward is the site of Dunmall, a fortress where, tradition says, all the rent of Ireland was once paid; but its only memorials are a mound and fosse with the fragments of a wall. Beyond Garron Point see the curious grotesque rock called Clough-i-stookin, of chalky whiteness, bearing a striking resemblance to a female of gigantic stature: near it the ruins of a Castle on a caverned cliff, the echoes in which are curious: also Torr Point. On the beach near Glynn the _Anomia Gryphus_ and the _Vertebræ pentacrinites_ are found in abundance in a blue lime. To the N. of it stand the lofty and precipitous cliffs of Agnew's Hill, said to be the loftiest hill in the county. The vicinity of this romantic spot has been well described by Mr. Wakefield, who, on descending the hill to Cushendall, beholding on the one hand a cultivated mountain, and on the other a vale of rich land in a high state of tillage, declares that upon the whole a more extended and more delightful prospect of hill and dale intermixed in charming variety, is not often to be seen. He adds, that from Cushendall to Glenarm, passing Red Bay and coasting along the ocean, the whole way, the road exhibits the most romantic and beautiful scenery. On the one hand magnificent and widely extended views of the ocean, which on this coast rolls its swelling waves towards the shore with a peculiar and dangerous rapidity; and on the other, rocky mountains of considerable height, whose hanging cliffs, as the road extends partly up their sides, seem to threaten the traveller with destruction; and which in some places are thickly clothed with woods, through the openings between which the eye is sometimes surprised with the sight of a village as the road winds round the spacious bays and jutting promontories.

LOUGH NEAGH is the largest lake of fresh water in Europe, with the exception of Ladoga, Onega, and Geneva, being 20 m. by 12; and the country round it being level, the furthest shores cannot be distinguished from any part of its circumference; so that it resembles an ocean, particularly in stormy weather, when the waves break suddenly and are dangerous for boats. See Ram Island with its Round Tower: inquire for Gems, Crystals, and Petrifactions. The ride from Belfast, of about 16 m. is delightful; and nothing can be finer than the view bursting on the tourist from the top of Mount Devis, whether he contemplates Lough Neagh, or turns round to admire the extensive prospect over the County Down and Irish Channel, towards the Isle of Man, and even the distant mountains of Wales. Though this extensive inland sea receives no less than eight rivers, yet the only outlet to the whole collected mass of water is on the N.W. extremity, at Toom, whence passing through a small lake, Lough Beg, it forms the river Bann, which runs into the sea at Coleraine. The great disproportion between the outlet and the influx has given rise to a conjecture of subterraneous passages; but not the smallest indication of such a phenomenon has yet been discovered,--so that the great means of reduction must be by exhalation: to this it may be added, that in the dry season the efflux is so trifling as to be waded at Toom, where it is less than knee-deep; whilst on the other hand, in the wet season, most of the rivers being mountainous, the influx is so sudden and so greatly extensive, that 10,000 acres are often covered, which were dry in summer. The geologist may also notice the well-authenticated fact that, the Lough often interrupts its own course to the sea, by the quantities of sand and gravel which it deposits in the channel: all those impediments are frequently accelerated, though sometimes removed, by the casual direction and force of the winds: hence the dilatation and contraction have not been as yet reduced to any role; but the fact is certain that its strongest tendency is towards expansion, its actual encroachments being marked and known; for in one place it has encompassed one Ch., (Ballyscullen) drowned great part of the parish, and still seems gaining on the land. It must be remembered that this Lough is perhaps the shallowest piece of water in the world of such an extent, being no where deeper than 11 fathoms. The trade carried on upon the Lough has of late years received considerable additions from three navigable canals; one of which leads to Newry, where a river runs into the sea at Carlingford; the second, through Lisburn, gains the sea at Belfast; and the third takes a direction westerly, for inland purposes. In stormy weather the waves break so short and dash with such violence against the shoals at the foot of Shane's Castle, that the spray is said often to have dashed into the highest windows. In consequence of this, shipwrecks of the craft are not unfrequent.

PLEASKIN.--A Cape a little to the E. of Giant's Causeway; the most striking of all the semicircular precipices on this range of coast, in the opinion of Dr. Drummond and the ingenious but unfortunate Dr. Hamilton. In the sixteen different strata of which it is composed, beauty and sublimity are wonderfully blended and harmonised. Over a dark and rugged base fringed with incessant foam it lifts its sides adorned with various tints of green gray lichen, and vermilion rock, with a rapid declivity to about half its elevation, and thence becomes perpendicular. On a stratum of red ochre at the elevation of 200 feet, stands a magnificent gallery of basaltic columns, 44 feet in height, with others equally romantic; like a theatre of Nature harmoniously arranged, rock upon rock, gallery upon gallery, so magnificent, so solitary, and facing the wide Atlantic, as if formed for the temple of "spirits from the vasty deep!"

LARNE, 8 m. N. from Carrickfergus,--worth notice for the fine scenery round its harbour and vicinity. Redhall; Olderfleet, and various ancient Castles in ruins; several Cromlechs on the E. side of Brown's Bay, where is also the Giant's Cradle, a large stone so nicely balanced that a small force will put it in motion, though the utmost strength of many men cannot overturn it. See Ballygelly Promontory 3 m. with masses of prismatic basalt, where the pillars first commence: to the W. ruins of Cairn Castle on an insulated rock; and the Salagh Braes.

LISBURNE, 7 m. S.S.W. from Belfast.--Handsome, populous, and extensive, on the Lagan. Handsome Ch.; large Market-house; several neat Sectarian Chapels. Linen, diaper, and damask manufactories. 2 m. N.E. Lambeg with curious damask-works, and numerous bleach-greens. Near Lambeg numerous villas; Drum House and Ch.; Ballydrain, with lake and grounds; and the Giant's Ring, with round tower.

RANDALSTOWN, 88 m. from Dublin, 3 m. N.W. from Antrim.--A thriving town on the river Main. See Market-house and Assembly-rooms; also the scenery of Lough Neagh 2 m. distant. 3-1/2 m. N. is Kells, a pleasant village, with ruins of an ancient Ch.; 3 m. E. of which, the dilapidated village, once the city of Connor and still an episcopal see united to Down. See ruins of the Cathedral.

RATHLIN, or RAGHERY, a small island N. of Ballycastle.--See Doon Point; also the Tumulus on a plain in the centre, with stone coffins. The ruins of Bruce's Castle. Here also are seen optical aërial illusions, like the _fata morgana_ in the Straits of Messina.

TEMPLE PATRICK, 10 m. N.W. from Belfast.--Road to Antrim, on which route the tourist may enjoy some fine mountain scenery, including the Bay of Carrickfergus, backed by the majestic mountains of Mourne. Close to the village see Castle Upton, the castellated mansion of Lord Templetown, with handsome park and mausoleum. 4 m. S.E. is the rough fort, an ancient memorial of uncertain origin, but partly Danish, perhaps partly Druidical; with wild scenery in its vicinity; and on the road to Belfast is a complete chain of Danish raths.

MINERALS.

Basaltes:--along the coast from Belfast to Ballycastle.

Granite and porphyry:--in the glen between Devis and Collon mountains near Belfast.

Limestone:--very frequent throughout the county.

Coal:--near Ballycastle; containing pyrites.

Sandstone, and aluminous layers:--near Ballycastle; containing evident traces of zoophytes and other organic bodies.

Crystals:--very fine at Knocklaide mountain.

Calcedony variegated with marine plants:--frequent on the rocky shores.

Stalactites and tufa:--near Kinfane: also calcareous creeping stones near the Glynns.

BOTANY.

_Alopecurus pratensis_:--in the levels near Lough Neagh.

_Dactylis glomerata_, Cock'sfoot Grass:--meadows near Lisburn.

_Festuca fluitans_, Float Fescue:--bogs and wet grounds in the S. and W. parts of the county.

_Holcus lanatus_, White Grass:--springs up in turf bogs.

_Phleum pratense_, Timothy Grass:--Castle Dobbs and Island Magee.

_Plantugo_, Narrow-leaved Plantain:--to be met with in every field or meadow.

_Poa aquatica_:--in the wettest bogs, where only it will grow.

_Rhinanthus_, Yellow Rattle:--on dry soils.

ARMAGH

Is an inland county; the northern part bordering on Lough Neagh, consists of most extensive bogs of extraordinary depth and a remarkably black soil, and thereby affords no scenery worth attention. But in the immediate vicinity of the city of Armagh, the tourist is gratified by a richer prospect, where an abundant population finds employment in well inclosed and well cultivated fields. To the southward the appearance deteriorates, especially in that part called the Fews; a district of dark black mountains, where the hand of industry or the eye of taste has scarcely yet penetrated. Yet it is well worthy the notice of the picturesque tourist, from its alpine views, particularly round Slieve Gullien, which rivals the loftiest in England or Wales. In the vicinity of Armagh the soil is fertile, consisting generally of a rich brown loam with limestone and limestone gravel, and the appearance of the gently undulating grounds has been compared to eggs set in salt: bounded on the S.W. by Monaghan; W. by Tyrone; N. by Lough Neagh; E. by Down; S.E. by Louth. The two principal lakes are Carlough and Lough Clay.

ARMAGH, 62 m. from Dublin, the metropolitan see of all Ireland,--stands on the acclivity of a lofty mountain, the top occupied by the Cathedral which forms a fine object. The place is considerable; the new streets handsome. Archbishop's Palace adjoining the town, a modern edifice of unadorned simplicity: barracks large, airy, and even elegant: see the College; commodious Charter School: New Ch. of white stone with handsome spire: Public Infirmary, Public Library, and Observatory: curious market Cross. Examine improvements of the late Archbishop, aided by the judicious exertions of the present Primate. About 5 m. W. is Clonfeckle, on the borders of Tyrone, deserving the notice of the agricultural tourist as the residence and farm of Dr. Richardson, the cultivator of Fiorin grass. (_Curwen's Letters_, vol. ii. p. 319.) Also Lisnadell, 5 m. S. of Armagh: handsome Ch. and Glebe House, erected by the patriotic Archbishop Robinson. About 10 m. S. is Newton Hamilton, stated in tradition as the scene of a sanguinary battle between the great O'Neil and a chieftain of Louth, in consequence of the latter singeing the beard of his guest at a banquet, and in which O'Neil lost his life. See also near to it remains of an old Cromwellian encampment: and ruins of Black Bank Castle.

CHARLEMONT, 7 m. N. of Armagh.--A good town and military depôt. See the fort and barracks.

JONESBOROUGH, a small village, but a good station for the visitant of the wild mountain scenery in its vicinity, particularly Slieve Gullien. Rocks, caverns, glyns, from a bold ascent, are the features of the summit of this mountain, without the smallest appearance of any calcareous matter; and although there have not hitherto, says Sir C. Coote, been any minerals discovered here, yet there is a strong probability of their existence from the metallic tinge of the waters which burst from its sides, oozing in plentiful discharges even in the driest seasons. On its summit is a cairn of stones which form the roof of a cavern that at first view appears to be natural, but on minute investigation has evident testimony of being the work of art. The apartment is difficult of entrance, but is large within; and as there is a flagged way to the edge of the lake at the foot, it seems intended for other than sepulchral purposes. Sir C. Coote observes, that perhaps a bolder prospect is not presented by any mountain in Ireland than from its summit, comprising a great extent of country; the lakes and streams, the several towns and well-cultivated demesnes, together with the bay of Dundalk, where the declivity is terminated; these, with a thousand other natural beauties which are presented to view, will repay the fatigue of the ascent, and an awful and impressive pleasure is afforded in contemplating the bold promontories and rugged cliffs bared by the tempests, and arresting the floating meteors, throughout furnishing ample resources for the inquisitive philosopher.

LURGAN, about 14 m. N.E. from Armagh.--A large town, principally of one extensive and neatly kept street; surrounded by the linen manufacture, Ch. and Spire. See the house and handsome grounds of the Brownlow family, with good views of Lough Neagh. The mansion, an antique Castle.

MARKETHILL, a thriving town about 4 m. S.E. from Armagh, with good Inn.--In the Fews a wild, barren, but romantic district, the admirers of Dean Swift will be gratified in tracing many spots noticed by that eccentric character; especially Hamilton's Bawn, Gosford Castle, and Draper's Hill, about 1 m. distant. Throughout these wild and romantic mountains there is something very interesting, awful, and grateful, to the lover of nature, elevating the inquisitive mind, and inspiring a strong desire to explore their inmost recesses, and a desire to become familiar with so sublime a solitude. (_See further, Sir C. Coote's Survey of County_, p. 35.)

PORTADOWN, 3 m. S. of Lurgan,--is a neat town on the Bann, at the junction of the Newry canal with that river.

RICH HILL, about 4 m. N.E. from Armagh,--is a small village, but deserves notice for the beautiful residence of Sir Capel Molyneux at Castle Dillon, with extensive plantations, lakes, &c. and two handsome columns in honour of St. Patrick and the volunteers of Ireland. The appearance of the village itself is interesting, and considerably improved by the elegant demesne of Mr. Richardson, in full view of the street, with antique Castle. Proceed through a charmingly wooded country towards the Church of Kilmore, and thence by good roads to Loughgall village, where is Drummilly, an ancient mansion with extensive plantations.

TANDERAGEE, 10 m. E. of Armagh,--affords good specimens of the linen manufacture. Acton village, 5 m. S., the scene of many bloody contests in the feudal times, especially at Points Pass; and near to it is Scarvagh Pass on the borders of Down.

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The Scientific Tourist through IrelandChapter II: Part 2

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