Chapter III: Part 3

TYNAN, about 6 m. S.W. of Armagh,--stands pleasantly on an eminence near a river of the same name. See excellent Ch. and lofty steeple: also in the Church-yard an oblong stone of about 18 inches square and 4 feet long, set upon a large block stone, and capped with another, divided into square compartments, and having vestiges of sculpture. 1 m. ruins of ancient Castle. About 6 m. S. Keady, a small village on the river Callen, crowded with mills and bleach-greens. See the handsome Ch., also the rich lead-mines.

MINERALS.

Lead:--in the vicinity of Tynan; rich ore.

Iron exists, at least in small quantities, as evinced by the chalybeate springs in the mountainous districts.

Fossils are stated, in the _County Survey_, to be in great variety, as yet little known, but affording ample investigation to the geologist.

BOTANY.

_Colchicum autumnale_, Meadow Saffron:--on the borders of the Blackwater and Callen rivers.

_Euphrasia_, Eyebright:--in low grounds near the Lough.

_Hippuris_, Marestail:--at the mouth of the Bann.

_Iris_, or Flag:--on the banks of the river Callen.

_Lobelia Dortmanna_, Water Gladiole:--in Lough Neagh.

_Mentha aquatica_, Water Mint:--common in low grounds.

_Menyanthes_, Purple Buckbean:--beautiful specimens in various places.

_Nymphæa_, Water Lily (White and Yellow):--on the borders of Lough Neagh, and in muddy ditches.

_Parnassia_, Grass of Parnassus:--on Tynan river.

_Phellandrium aquaticum_:--on the banks of Cushier and Blackwater rivers.

_Potamogeton natans_, Pondweed:--in stagnant waters near Lough Neagh.

_Ranunculus_, Crowfoot:--in the marshy grounds.

_Scrophularia aquatica_, Water Figwort:--on the banks of Newry Water.

_Senecio paludosus_, Bird's Tongue:--in low marshes.

_Subularia aquatica_, Awlwort:--under the water in Lough Neagh.

_Thalictrum flavum_, Meadow Rue:--on the lake side near summit of Slieve Gullien.

_Typha angustifolia_, Narrow-leaved Catstail:--very common.

CARLOW

Is a small county; interesting to the picturesque tourist from the variety, if not from the sublimity of its scenery; but even in that he may be gratified whilst rambling amidst the mountainous chain from Mount Leinster to Blackstairs on the S., a district awfully grand and majestic, and the range impassable except at Scullogh Gap, resembling the Ghauts or passes in the mountains of India. In the western part of the county also, on the banks of the Barrow, the rugged mountainous range is beautifully fringed with timber, even to the summits of some of its loftiest hills, agreeably chequered by cultivation, and studded with the mansions of opulence, whose snow-white chimneys peeping through the foliage give earnest of the national hospitality that reigns amongst them. Indeed all writers agree, that some of the most beautiful and picturesque scenery in Ireland is to be met with in this division of the county and around the town of Carlow. It is a curious remark of Mr. Wakefield respecting this county, that it has neither a temporal nor spiritual peer resident within it; and yet, though destitute of manufactures, it is tenanted by more wealthy people than almost any other county in the island. It is worthy of remark also, that the fee has been transferred more here than in any other part of the country, and that a great part of it belonged formerly to Quakers. Bounded on the N. by Kildare, E. by Wicklow and Wexford, S. by Kilkenny, W. by Queen's County.

CARLOW, 39 m. from Dublin,--is a neat and flourishing town, well situated for inland commerce on the river Barrow. Wakefield describes it as abounding with "houses of entertainment, for almost every shop has attached to it a house which is used as an inn." Examine its Woollen manufactures: some slight remains of its ancient Castle, which recently fell, a mere heap of ruins: the venerable old Ch., from the vicinity of which is a very extensive view, commanding a fertile and well wooded country enlivened by the majestic windings of the river Barrow: ruins of the very fine Abbey founded before the English conquest: the Roman Catholic College, an extensive building, with good gardens and a park for the students' recreation, with the Gaol, Barracks, &c. Miss Plumptre says, that "Carlow is superior to most towns in the kingdom in the neatness of its appearance:" and Hall says that "the ground about it is better improved than in many parts of England." The town and immediate vicinity present some historical recollections; and though the English tourist may not be much interested in the disputes of the Earls of Kildare and Thomond, and the predatory exploits of O'More; yet events of a later date, connected with its siege by Ireton in the civil wars, may lead to inquiry and investigation. It was also the scene of a sanguinary battle, though on a small scale, in the year 1798, being assaulted by the rebels before day-break, and successfully defended by a small party of military and the loyal yeomanry. The visitor will not omit the pleasing domain of Mr. Cavanagh, in the immediate vicinity, from whence the Blackstairs mountains form a striking object; though not lofty, yet bold, bleak, and rugged. Mr. Curwen speaks highly of the scenery in the vale between Carlow and Leighlin Bridge, with enchanting and extensive prospects over a rich country of the most sublime and picturesque features. This valley is about six miles in breadth, bounded on each side by a chain of mountains finely wooded, well inclosed, and cultivated to their summits. Villages and gentlemen's seats to be seen on all sides, with whitewashed cottages well sheltered by trees, and presenting a pleasing air of rural comfort and industry. See Ardglass, 4 m. N., a high green hill, from whence there is a most enchanting prospect of the county, and also Kildare. On its summit is an ancient Catholic Chapel, built in form of a cross, but much resembling a dilapidated barn: read some justly-flattering epitaphs to the Grace family, not badly written. At Kellystown, on the east bank of the Barrow, extensive ruins of a Ch. said to have been first erected by St. Patrick. At Staplestown 2 m. S.E. a pleasing mansion of Mr. Bagnall, once intended to rival Versailles, the grounds owing much both to nature and art, and watered by the romantic little river Burrin.

LEIGHLIN BRIDGE,--is a small village about 8 m. S. of Carlow, with remains of an ancient Castle and some monastic ruins, which have also been castellated. The view from the bridge with the Black Castle at one end is very fine, though the bridge itself is more venerable than picturesque; built in 1320, by a liberal canon of Kildare. The course of the river Barrow presents views of great fertility and beauty, though certainly not so romantic as many smaller streams. See Bally Ellen Castle in ruins about 8 m. S.; also Ballylaghan Castle, which presents a gateway between two lofty circular towers, in the style of Tunbridge Castle. Though the castle stands low, yet the view to the westward is very fine; and, as its walls are in pretty good preservation, it affords an amusing object of research to the antiquary, who may ascend some ruinous staircases into several of the apartments, and gratify his fancy by the recollection of past times. Ballymorn Castle, 5 m. distant, is an extensive ruin standing in a deep vale surrounded by lofty mountains. It is of the middle ages, but has Gothic windows in the interior, and has the peculiarity of its outer walls being perforated by a gallery from whence the garrison could discharge their missiles through numerous loop-holes. Only one large tower remains. Clonmore is an extensive and pleasing ruin, presenting a good idea of the arrangements, half military half domestic, of the earlier times, though unroofed and much dilapidated, but rendered venerable by the covering of thick ivy that mantles its walls, affording shelter to the birds of night. Fenough, 9 m. S.E., has an old Castle near the church, once a residence of the kings of Leinster. Garryhaddon, 2 m. N.E., a deserted mansion of the Ormond family, has an appearance of ancient magnificence, with an extensive park and gardens. Whilst the picturesque tourist is rambling through the Carlow mountains, he will not omit visiting a deep recess in the Slieumargah, where stand the remains of the Abbey of Old Leighlin, recorded in the earliest monastic legends, but now exhibiting no remnants of architecture anterior to the 12th century, when it was re-edified, after destruction by fire about the time of the Norman conquest. Here was once a celebrated episcopal city; but the ruins of the Abbey, of which the cathedral is still kept in decent repair as a parish Ch., alone remain. The Abbey, though not very extensive, is deserving of notice on account of its pinnacled spire and the rich tracery of its Gothic windows, being about the time of Hen. II. or at least re-edified after a destructive fire; but suffered to sink into ruin since the union of the Sees of Leighlin and Ferns. On the west side of the Ch. under some trees, see the once celebrated well of St. Laferian, now nearly filled up, and near it a rude stone cross. The antiquary will also find subjects of research in some old termini or stones of memorial erected by Bishop Harlewin about 1216, as boundaries of the liberties of the ancient city; one of these is close by Leighlin Bridge, another near Wells, and a third on the mountains. Ledwich gives a good engraving in his _Antiquities_. The antiquary will derive some pleasure from a visit to a small village, St. Mullins, about 15 m. S.E. from Leighlin Bridge and agreeably seated on the Barrow. This place, particularly its extensive burial-ground, possesses much sanctity in the opinions of the lower Irish, from its antiquity, having been founded as early as the 7th century by a saint of the name, who built the church here and was bishop of Ferns. This episcopal eremite long inhabited the gloomy vale of Glendaloch, was a great patriot, causing the remission of a tax of oxen, and a great prophet also. The ruins, though not very extensive, are picturesque, and the whole scene one of solemn meditation, backed by the lofty mountains of Blackstairs.

TULLOW, 10 m. E. of Carlow.--A pleasant town on the Slaney. Bridge of six arches: close to it ruins of an Abbey: Castle converted into barracks: neat Ch. and Market-house:--taken by Cromwell after a sanguinary siege. Hackets Town, about 7 m. N.E., a small neat village, the scene of two violent assaults by the rebels in 1798. Mount Leinster, about 8 m. S., deserves the sportsman's notice, for its hares, foxes, and grouse; also a well said to be unfathomable, and much resorted to for medicinal purposes.

MINERALS.

Limestone in great abundance.

BOTANY.

Hitherto uninvestigated.

CAVAN.

CAVAN, though an inland district, possesses more water scenery and more diversified than any other in the island, with the exception of Kerry; for here the tourist meets with many beautiful and picturesque landscapes enlivened by small lakes, in some places spreading into expanse, in others assuming the form of rivers, proceeding from the lakes of Westmeath in their course to Lough Erne. The general face of the county consists of eminences, which, though not very lofty, yet rugged and uneven, afford a great variety of prospect, and swell into mountains on the borders of Fermanagh and Leitrim. This county came very late into civilization or even cultivation, being one of the most celebrated in the ancient feuds and wars for its fastnesses, woods, bogs, and all the natural impediments so formidable in warfare. It is exactly midway between the Atlantic Ocean and St. George's Channel; but its extremes are not more than 14 m. distant from the sea:--the tourist will find the roads rather indifferent. Bounded on the N. by Fermanagh and Monaghan, E. by Westmeath, S. by Longford, W. by Leitrim.

BELTURBET, about 8 m. N.W. of Cavan; built upon an eminence above the river Erne, on which there is much romantic scenery.--See the Tower and Market-house, and some vestiges of an ancient fortification beyond the church. Ballyconnel, 5 m. W., is a good station for head-quarters in viewing this end of Lough Erne. Examine Ortnacullagh mountain for minerals and spars. Ballyhayes, though only a common village, possesses some antique and fantastical buildings that show it to have once been a place of considerable note. The Mansion-house is a curious specimen of Irish feudal splendour. Near it the poor but enchantingly situated village of Butler's Bridge. Drumlane Priory, 3 m. from Belturbet, is now little more than a large barn used as a church, but of considerable antiquity, being founded as early as the 6th century; though it is probable that the oldest part now remaining is the round tower which stands close to one corner of the sacred edifice. It was dedicated to the Virgin Mary, and long of great sanctity as a place of sepulture; but perhaps more remarkable in its being the birth-place of St. Maidoc, a celebrated legendary personage, respecting whose parents these holy legends are wisely silent.

CAVAN, 54 m. N.W. from Dublin.--Sir Rich. C. Hoare describes it as situated in a vale near a small river, and making but a poor appearance as a county town. See the Court-house and Barracks. Ballyhedy Bridge, about 3 m. distant, crosses the Erne, in a pleasing country surrounded by beautiful mansions and highly improved demesnes. Near it see Farnham, the mansion of Earl Farnham, which Wakefield considers as one of the finest and best kept demesnes in the island. It affords abundance of views intermixed with some lake scenery; and the cottage at Killishandra not far distant, together with one called Lady Farnham's, an elegant retreat on the border of a small lake, are well worth seeing. At the latter in particular, the scenery is exceedingly romantic, the sides of the hills being covered with waving trees approaching close to the level of the water. Notice the pleasing views on the river Croghan; also the neat Ch. with the ruins of an old Castle on the western bank: also the richly wooded demesne of Castle Sanderson, with the spacious lake and grounds of Cloverhill, and the new mansion of Castle Hamilton. Visit the mountain of Bruce Hill. Kilmore, 2 m. S.W., is remarkable for the smallest Cathedral in the empire, being nothing but the parish church: near it is Lough Outer, where stand the ruins of an ancient Castle on a small island, remarkable as the prison of the good Bishop Bedell, during the rebellion of 1641. Sir C. Coote observes (in his Survey of the County), that the many beautiful islands encircled by this charming lake are crowned with the finest timber, which their undulating surface presents to view in a variety of shades; and their deep recesses and romantic scenery strongly picture to the mind the aptitude of these sequestered islands for the superstitious rites which formerly were celebrated there.

COOTEHILL, about 9 m. N.E. of Cavan,--is a smart well-built town, and shows the advantages resulting from the introduction of the linen manufacture. It contains nothing very remarkable; but is a good station for several objects in its vicinity. Baillieborough is 9 m. S.E., close to which is a pleasant lough; also a chalybeate spring. The view from the Ch. is good; and on the summit of a hill, between it and King's Court, is a pool long celebrated for its antiscorbutic qualities, the patients bathing in it and rubbing their bodies with the mud. It well deserves the notice of the geologist and the medical tourist. Bellamont Forest, the family seat of the Bellamonts, uniting with Dawson's Grove, forms a tract of romantic scenery that must not be neglected by the picturesque traveller. The views from it are very fine; and Bruce Hill is a most striking feature in the scenery. King's Court is a modern creation, rising fast into a thriving town, clearly exemplifying what may be done by a patriotic landlord. In its vicinity are several deep glens and valleys, within which flow rapid streams affording many romantic and interesting scenes. See ruins of Castle at Muff. Shircock, about 7 m. E., has some lakes in its neighbourhood. About 2 m. S. visit a narrow glen, in which the mineralogist will find much amusement. Specimens of coal and other fossils.

DALYS BRIDGE, about 12 m. S.E. from Cavan,--is a neat village, with several pleasing objects in its vicinity. Shaalan Lake, or Lough Shecklin, deserves a visit, being 7 m. long and 4 broad in some places; studded on the north side with gentlemen's cottages used as sporting-boxes, and extremely well planted: whilst on its southern verge, amidst lofty hills and fertile cornfields, may be seen the ruins of the ancient Castle of Ross, with the high hill or Ben of Fore. On an island are the ruins of an Abbey.

SWADLINBAR, a neat village about 18 m. N.W. from Cavan,--has long been celebrated for its Spa, containing sulphur, earth, sea salt, and fossil alkali, being alterative and diaphoretic. Near it are the ruins of a Ch.; and a little further, but in Fermanagh, is the splendid mansion of Florence Court, a seat of the E. of Enniskillin. See and examine Quilca mountain, with its iron mines, and a spring of good water on its summit: its general appearance is very grand, overhanging the valley in towering magnificence. The tourist will here be amused with many legendary tales of feudal times, of sprites and faëry. Its summit was the ancient place of investiture for the MacGwyres, once the petty kings of this district.

VIRGINIA, 12 m. S.E. of Cavan,--is a small village, and in the immediate vicinity of Lough Ramor, of great extent, studded with islands once clothed with foliage but now denuded, yet still possessing the ruins of several old Castles.

MINERALS.

Lead and copper mines in the town land of Mayo: also coal, various ochres, manganese, spar, a species of jasper, iron, and some limestone. In Quilca mountain is a very rich iron mine; and in Ortnacullagh mountain, near Ballyconnel, lead and silver ores, pure sulphur, fullers' earth, white and red transparent spars, and slate quarries, with some indications of coal. There are mineral waters also at Derrylester; sulphureous at Derrindaff; alkaline at Owen Bruin; and also at Carrickmore. At Cootehill are rich veins of copper ore and pyrites.

BOTANY.

_Cicuta virosa_, Long-leaved Water Hemlock:--in watery places.

_Myrica Gale_, Gale, Sweet Willow, or Dutch Myrtle:--near rivers.

_Spergula arvensis_, Small Spurrey:--in sandy places.

CLARE.

This county lies N. of the Shannon, containing also another river, the Fergus, and possessing great capabilities from its maritime situation. Its bays and harbours are numerous; but its coast is dangerous, consisting principally of basaltic cliffs, which frown destruction on the unhappy mariner who may be caught upon its lee shore. It is in most parts mountainous, yet deficient in woody landscape; but the barony of Burrin N. of Kilfernora is replete with rude magnificence; whilst the lake and river scenery offers many beauties to the painter: bounded on the S.E. by Limerick, W. by the Atlantic, N. by Galway Bay, E. by Galway and Tipperary, and is nearly insulated by the Shannon and the Ocean.

CLARE is a small town 4 m. from Ennis.--See the Abbey, extensive in its ground plan and still venerable in decay, particularly a square lofty tower lately in good preservation: it is of high antiquity, having been founded as early as the 12th century by O'Brien, King of North Munster, but was taken from St. Peter and St. Paul by Henry VIII. and given to an ancestor of the Thomond family. The scene of many sanguinary feudal battles in the 13th century. Ruins of an old Castle 1 m. distant.

ENNIS is the shiretown, and 112 m. W. from Dublin.--Curwen observes, that the approach to the town is delightful, on account of the apparent comfort of the lower classes; the town itself neat and thriving. See the neat modern Ch. surmounted by the ruins of the venerable Abbey, one of the finest in Ireland, whose long narrow windows, divided by stone railing, with the remnants of some delicate carving and other architectural ornaments, are considered by Grose as speaking its era, and the expense bestowed upon it in the 13th century. See also the handsome Charity School. About 8 m. W. is Callan mountain, where the antiquary may examine the tombstone, with the Ogham inscription on Conan the Swift-footed, whose death and burial-place are recorded in an historical tale supposed to have been written by Ossian in the year 296. See also the Druidical altar on the S. side of the mountain. Between Ennis and Lough Derg is Dromoland, the venerable and antique mansion of the O'Briens, baronets. Crusheen, 5 m. N.E., has the ruins of an ancient Castle nearly surrounded by a lake. Quin Abbey is 5 m. E., romantic and presenting a good portrait of monastic times, with sombre cloisters, private passages, ruined chapels, ancient monuments, and sainted statues. Near it is Spancel Hill; Castle in ruins; 5 m. from which see Tulla Castle.

KILFENORA, 12 m. N.W. of Ennis, is on the borders of the romantic district of Burrin. See the ancient Cathedral, with its numerous sanctified and heraldic ornaments: statue of St. Fechnan the founder, in the choir; seven crosses of a single stone each, with antique sculpture. Corcomroe Abbey, a few miles to the S.W., was the scene of many feudal battles between the O'Connors and O'Briens, of which there are some monuments. Near it is Ennistymond, a pleasant village, several Castles in ruins, particularly Inchiquin and Moyvore. The tourist must not omit the extensive and astonishing prospect from Hagshead, 1300 feet above the level of the ocean, exhibiting some of the grandest scenes of nature: near it were wrecked part of the Spanish Armada.

KILLALOE, 20 m. E. of Ennis,--stands in a hilly country on the Shannon, which rolls rapidly over an irregular bed of rock. A bridge of 18 arches leads to the town, after which the ascent is steep; but the Cathedral stands at the bottom close to the river, and lately fitted up in a modern style. The southern portal, North Chapel, is a most curious and well sculptured specimen of rich Gothic architecture, of a grotesque and irregular design, and, though evidently a doorway, has been considered by some persons as a monument. The font has some curious arabesque ornaments. See the Oratory, a curious specimen of the religious architecture of the Ostmen in the 9th century, and one of the oldest structures of wood and stone in the island. Its rude walls are not very high, but the gables are pyramidal and lofty; and a small room is still pretty entire, where devotees have long resorted to offer prayers and religious bribes to the patron saint, St. Molva. See the Salmon Fishery and Eel Weir. Whilst in this vicinity, visit Lough Derg, and notice the bay of Skariff with a wooded peninsula, and island of 20 acres called Holy Island, on which are a round tower 70 feet high, and the ruins of seven churches. See also the demesne of Mr. Parker at Castle Lough, which affords to the artist a series of extensive and charming views. Some caverns of limestone rock at Mitchel's Town. At Cancora see the earth-works of the ancient palace of the kings of Thomond, first erected by the famous Brian Boroimhe. O'Brien's Bridge, a village on the banks of the Shannon, with a bridge of 14 arches; sometimes called Montpellier, on account of its medicinal springs of a sulphureous nature, much frequented by company in the season. The country round not very picturesque, but improving in cultivation, with many genteel residences: yet if the traveller in his route from Killaloe to Limerick takes the road by Castle Connel, which however is rather a detour, he will be amply gratified by the interesting scenery. In the vale 2-1/2 m. from the springs, is Coolastigue Castle in ruins; a little further Rhin Row Castle; and beyond that Castle Troy, all emblems of the devastations of war and time. Nearer to Limerick stands Mount Shannon, the seat of Lord Clare.

KILRUSH, about 22 m. W. of Ennis, and towards the mouth of the Shannon,--has nothing remarkable, but forms a station for many surrounding objects of curiosity. Towards Buncragy is a magnificent prospect from the summit of a hill, called Paradise, looking up as high as Limerick. Near it is the picturesque island of Canna with ruins of an Abbey. Carrigaholt, about 15 m. W., has some remains of an old Castle, of which many legendary tales are in existence. Iniscattery Island, towards the mouth of the Shannon, contains the ruins of 7 churches out of 11 erected by St. Senanus, a disciple of St. Patrick; also a round tower 120 feet high. In monastic times the fair sex were excluded from this island: near it is Miltown Malbay, a watering place coming into fashion; its vicinity most interesting to the geologist: where see the Puffing Hole, a curious cavern pervious to the ocean, which exhibits various extraordinary phænomena.

SIXMILE BRIDGE, 15 m. E. of Ennis,--has nothing curious in itself; but see the seat of Mount Jevers, and 2 m. distant the ruins of the once famous Castle of Bunratty.

MINERALS.

Iron evidently exists in many parts of the county; as there are many chalybeate springs, particularly Ballykett, Fierd, and Monmore, in the western district: also manganese; some indications of coal; black limestone near the mouth of the Shannon; and the earths would doubtless repay the investigation of the mineralogist.

BOTANY.

_Adiantum Capillus Veneris_, True Maiden Hair:--on the rocky mountains of Burrin.

_Arundo arenaria_, Sea Matweed:--on the sandy beaches.

_Asclepias Vincetoxicum_, (Lin.) Swallow Wort:--on the rocky mountains of Burrin.

_Butomus umbellatus_, Flowering Rush:--in the vicinity of Clare and Correfin.

_Crithmum maritimum_, Samphire:--on sea cliffs.

_Dryas octopetala_, Mountain Avens:--found in Burrin on the limestone mountains in abundance, where scarce any other vegetable will exist.

_Gentiana verna_, Spring Gentian:--on limestone gravelly soils near Galway Bay.

_Juniperus communis_, Juniper:--in mountainous districts.

_Ricinus communis_, (Lin.) _Palma Christi_, or Greater Spurge:--in Burrin.

_Rubus saxatilis_, Stone Bramble:--in the woods of Cratulagh.

_Satureja montana_, (Lin.) Winter Savory:--on the mountains of Burrin.

_Saxifraga granulata_, White Sengreen or Saxifrage:--in dry meadows and pastures in Burrin.

_Senecio saracenicus_, Broad-leaved Ragwort:--near Corfin.

_Spiræa Filipendula_, Dropwort:--in Burrin barony.

_Teucrium Chamæpitys_, Ground Pine:--in the rocky mountains of Burrin.

CORK

Is the largest county in the kingdom, and is said to possess more good and more bad land than any other. The vales fertile; well watered with numerous rivulets: maritime also, and having a great extent of sea-coast broken into numerous excellent harbours. Its scenery affords great variety to the tourist, especially in the S.W. district, where a range of lofty mountains extend to the ocean on the borders of Dunmanus Bay. The general surface is indeed rugged and broken, but not so as to impede agricultural labour, except in some districts, and even there they extend cultivation by burning turf fires on the rocks, after which they pour cold water on them and split them readily--a fact which seems to throw some light upon Hannibal's passage of the Alps. Some of the bogs in winter are impassable, especially on the N.W.; yet even these are grazed in summer by immense herds of cattle. Miss Plumptre states that a number of new roads are now making in all parts of the county, which will much accommodate the tourist. It is bounded on the N.E. by Waterford, N. by Tipperary and Limerick, N.W. by Kerry, the remainder by the ocean.

BALTIMORE, 43 m. from Cork, has a good harbour; but having been plundered and burnt by the Algerines in 1631, is become a mean village. The country round it is rude and romantic, and there are many ancient Castles in decay. The tourist may from hence visit Cape Clear, the southernmost point of Ireland, on an island, where see ruins of Dunanore Castle, with the Cave and ruined Ch. of St. Kieran. Skibbereen, 5 m. from Baltimore, is described by Miss Plumptre as improving in its appearance. See Market-house and Ch.; also the ruins of Abbey Showery with ancient tombs.

BANDON, 12 m. S.W. of Cork,--is in a district not very interesting; it is extensive but ill built. See Castle Bernard, 1 m. W., also Dundanere Castle, and the chalybeate spring. Inishonan, a village, with a linen manufactory and bleach-greens. Miss Plumptre praises the scenery in the dell in which it stands, with good bridge, wooded slopes backed by the Ch., and venerable ruin of an ancient Castle.

BANTRY, about 35 m. W. of Cork,--is situated on one of the finest bays in the world, and was noted by the defeat of the French squadron in 1796. The scenery amidst the mountains in which this town is embosomed, Mr. Wakefield thinks scarcely, if at all, exceeded by any other in the island, with the exception of Killarney. The views in all directions are bold, wild, and romantic; especially towards the head of the bay, which is mountainous, and abounding with scenes as rude and wild as imagination can paint or fancy anticipate. Miss Plumptre also describes it as highly worthy the notice of the picturesque tourist; and Mr. Wakefield observes, that the ride to Coolranny Bridge he thinks one of the most delightful that can be conceived. The ascent from that place to the Gowl mountains is very fine, from the gap of which the whole bay appears in its full extent, with lofty mountains on the opposite shore, and Cape Clear in the distant prospect rising above them all. Near this is Hungray Hill, 700 yards above the bay, being 20 miles from Bantry, but amply repaying by the most extensive prospect from its summit, whilst the falls of water down its sides in the winter season are extremely grand. But the greatest charm in the vicinity of Bantry is Glengariff, the road to which runs through some fine mountain scenery, and near it is the modern mansion of Mr. White, surrounded by extensive woods and standing on the edge of one of the finest indentations of the bay, perfect in its form and embosomed at the foot of lofty mountains: much of the surrounding beauty arises from the luxuriant foliage of arbutus, holly, and birch; whilst every turn opens a new glen, everywhere presenting varied and enchanting scenery, beautifully contrasted by the wildness of the opposite mountains. It is not a trifling addition to the amenity of this spot, that the mildness of the winter only strips the deciduous trees of their leaves for a very short time, whilst geraniums and myrtles, and many of the tenderest plants actually remain unsheltered during the whole year. Dursey Island in the bay has the ruins of a Castle. The Priest's Leap is a mountainous pass leading over Mangerton towards Killarney.

CASTLE LYONS, 15 m. N.E. of Cork.--A well built town in an agreeable vale on the banks of the Bride river. See Lord Barrymore's mansion erected on the ruins of O'Lehan's Castle; also ruins of a Franciscan Abbey, 1307. Near it Kilrea Castle in ruins, to the E. of which the venerable remains of an Abbey dedicated to St. Bridgid, about 1450, with ancient tombs and numerous awful indications of mortality.

CASTLEMARTYR, 16 m. from Cork, a large manufacturing town.--See the ruins of the ancient Castle, and the seat and grounds of the Boyle family: the house itself is worth seeing, being antique and assimilating well with the richly clad wild remains of an ancient castle, whose venerable turrets in majestic ruin peep forth from the thick foliage at a short distance; add to this an extensive sheet of water, which gives life to the surrounding scenery. Let the botanical tourist pay particular attention to the flower-garden and green-houses, elegantly arranged under the taste and genius of the Countess of Shannon. Visit Ballycotton Bay, with extensive strand, good wild fowl shooting and excellent flat- and shell-fish. See there the Ch. and Castle of Ballycrenane. About 1 m. S.E. is the river Dour, which breaks out from a limestone rock, after a subterraneous course of near half a mile, and forms a small lake, where the Halcyon or Kingsfisher is found in great numbers: Charleville, 14 m. N. of Cork, on the borders of Limerick; see Charter School, Ch. and Barracks. The magnificent seat of the Earls of Orrery was burnt down in the wars of the Revolution by the Duke of Berwick after dinner, like the ancient Persepolis.

CLOGHNAKILTY, 22 m. S.W. of Cork,--is seated on a shoal and dangerous bay. See the plain neat Ch. pleasingly situated, but the town is described by Miss Plumptre as poor and dirty. Dundedy or Galway Head has some curious caves worn out by the sea, also ruins of an old Castle. Iniskean, about 8 m. N., has close to it the ruins of Kinigh Ch. with remarkable round tower, a hexagon at the bottom and the upper part round, 70 feet high and 124 feet from the Ch. At Temple Bryan, 1 m. distant, are some remains of an ancient Temple; near the Ch. a stone circle with central pyramidal pillar, and two other pyramids in the immediate vicinity. At Timoleague, about 5 m. E., see ruins of O'Shaughnessy's Castle, and the extensive remains of a venerable Franciscan Abbey, 1350, with numerous tombs of Irish chieftains, Gothic cloisters, and romantic ruins of the ancient monastic apartments: see also the Holy Well.

CLOYNE, about 16 m. from Cork.--See the Cathedral; the Bishop's Palace; a small Castle of the Fitzgeralds; a round tower near the Ch.; a Danish rath, and a deep extensive cave in a park near the town. 1 m. W. at Castle Mary, the seat of Lord Longueville, see the Druids' altar, a large stone 15 feet in length, 8 in breadth, and 9 feet from the ground. In the vicinity the mineralogist will find a white substance tinged with yellow ochre, which does not effervesce with acids, but forms a good white paint if mixed with linseed oil. Here also are quarries of fine gray marble. 2 m. W. is Rostellan, the seat of the Marquis of Thomond, with a fine view of Cork harbour, and built on the ruins of an ancient Castle. To the S.W. see Corkbeg, a modern seat with some ecclesiastical ruins near it. The tourist may also proceed to the strand of Ballycroneen to visit an ancient pillar on a hill; also Lascally, a strong moted Danish encampment; Bally Kendrick Castle, &c.

CORK, the second city of Ireland, is 124 m. S.W. of Dublin.--Sir Rich. C. Hoare describes it as affording more interest to the commercial than the antiquarian tourist; and Miss Plumptre observes that it is upon the whole recommendable to the eye only as having a general appearance of comfort and prosperity, not as offering any particular subjects to dwell upon. Mr. Curwen indeed views it with a more favourable notice, and finds many things to approve. Seated on the river Lea, the old town rising on a hill forms an amphitheatre; in the new town some of the streets are spacious, well-built, and handsome. See the Cathedral partly modernized; the Parade, a spacious street with equestrian statue of Geo. II.; the Exchange; Custom House; Botanic Garden belonging to the Literary Institution; Barracks; extensive Porter Brewery; manufactories of Paper, Glass, and Cloth; Market House, &c. The environs are thickly studded with mercantile villas, and present views of happy amelioration. See at Ballyvacadane, 4 m. from Cork, a ruined Abbey; and Ballincolly Castle built upon a rock. Barrymore Island in the bay deserves the notice of the geologist from the circumstance of having a stratum of limestone running through it, although nothing but a red gritty stone exists upon the main land in its vicinity. Blarney Castle, 3 m. distant, must not be forgotten by the tourist. It stands on a bold romantic rock, its walls 18 feet thick, and bore a long siege at the Revolution, but was taken by King William's troops. Part only of the ancient Castle remains, but with modern additions. Those who please may kiss the well-known stone on the summit of the tower, and acquire a perpetual license for flattery and fiction. Carigrohan Castle to the W. has still some remains on a high precipice over the river. The tourist may visit Cove, and the Giant's Stairs, a curious natural production. The marine views in an aquatic excursion to Cork Harbour are very fine; the whole of it is indeed surrounded by stations which command the most beautiful and diversified prospects. If approaching it direct from the sea, the grand panorama which opens to the view in sailing up the narrow entrance, has a most striking effect: on the right Cork Beg, a seat of the Fitzgeralds, with some Abbey ruins; beyond it the woods of Rostellan, the seat of the Marquis of Thomond; then Haulbowling Island, and the lofty hills to the left, forming altogether a grand and impressive scene. Glanmire, 5 m. distant, is a beautiful glen on a narrow arm of the sea, with neat village and Ch. and good view of the harbour. At Monkstown see the fine old Castle on a wooded eminence.

DONERAILE, about 16 m. N. of Cork,--has a neat Ch. with lofty spire; see the Barracks on ruins of the old Castle; also some quarries of variegated marble near to it. See ruins of Castletown Roche, gallantly defended by Lady Roche against Cromwell's forces; also Carrigrocunny Castle and romantic ruins of an ancient Abbey at Bridgetown. Castle Saffron, 1 m. E., has several agreeable cascades on the river. Kilcoleman Castle in ruins, 2 m. N.W., will always be interesting to the lover of ancient British poetry, as the spot where Spenser wrote his Faëry Queen. The scenery is magnificent, and the prospect extensive. Monanimy, about 7 m. S., has the ruins of an old Castle and Abbey.

FERMOY, a newly built elegant town of four streets crossing each other at right angles, the work of a Scotch gentleman, Mr. Anderson, is about 15 m. N.E. of Cork; with a bridge of 13 arches mantled with ivy. See the extensive barracks; modern Ch.; ruins of ancient Castles in its vicinity. See Ballyhooly, a picturesque village; also Castle Hyde, a seat well wooded; and ruins of Creg Castle. Miss Plumptre and Mr. Curwen speak highly of the patriotic improvements in this town and vicinity.

KINSALE, 12 m. S. of Cork,--has a spacious harbour, and has been noted from the earliest times in Irish history. It was taken by the Spaniards in 1600, and stood a siege by the Duke of Marlborough in James's wars. See some remains of ruined Abbeys in the town: visit also Charles Fort, 1 m. E. in 1670. The picturesque tourist may visit the Old Head, 4 m. S., with Light-house, and ruins of Duncearma Castle, the old seat of Irish kings.

KILWORTH, a thriving town about 20 m. N.E. of Cork,--has some good mountain scenery in its vicinity. Near it is Moorfield, the superb residence of Lord Mount Cashel, also ruins of Cloughleagh Castle.

MACROOM, about 16 m. W. of Cork.--See ancient Castle built by King John, still inhabited; also the handsome Ch. In the river Sillane the sportsman will find good trout-fishing. At Agh-a-bollogue, see old Ch. and Holy Well, with the stone called St. Olan's Cap, about which are many superstitious and legendary tales. At Ballyvourney, 6 m. W., see ruins of Ch. with stone Cross and Holy Well. At Carig-a-drohid, 3 m. E., ruins of Castle on steep romantic rocks; and at Carrigafouky, 2 m. W., ancient ruins of MacCarty's Castle on a wild craggy precipice, with remains of a Druidical altar. Dunda Rock, 6 m. S., has a lofty Castle commanding a most extensive prospect. Glyncaum, or the crooked Glyn, is a deep hollow way between steep craggy rocky walls covered with forest trees and shrubby foliage, to the S. of which see ruins of Magshanagloss Castle. Gougenabera, 5 m. N., on the road from Cork to Killarney, presents most romantic scenery round the wild solitude of its secluded lake. Near it is Inchigeela, which offers considerable amusement to the mineralogist. At Lesecresig, on the summit of a hill 2 m. from Macroom, see an ancient cairn with Druidical altar.

MALLOW, 12 m. N. of Cork, has long been celebrated as a watering-place. See ruins of an old Castle, Ch., and Barracks; also bridge over the Blackwater, and ruins of an ancient Castle in the well wooded Jephson demesne. Sir R. C. Hoare details some curious traditions respecting it. Also Ballyellis, handsome seat of the Hare family. At Ballynamona, 3 m. S. (so famed in Irish melodies), are ruins of Mourne Abbey. Buttevant, a few miles distant, will amply repay the antiquary for a visit, by the remains of its venerable Abbey; ruins of ancient towers and other picturesque scenery: near to it see Ballybeg, where are ruins of an ancient monastery of Augustines. Dromagh, about 10 m. N.W., has an old Castle of the O'Keefes, with ruins of a Nunnery: and at Kanturk, 3 m. distant, are several remnants of castellated antiquity. Liscarrol, about 5 m. W. of Buttevant, has an ancient Castle in ruins, and was the scene of sanguinary battles in the civil wars. See deep hole, supposed to be fathomless, called Kateshole. Lohort Castle is an old Elizabethan mansion of Lord Arden, fortified in the ancient style with a moat, having a fine terrace on its roof and surrounded with pleasing plantations. Newmarket in the vicinity has some good mountain scenery; and the tourist may visit Woodfort, a handsome seat, with a turret on a hill, from whence a most enchanting prospect.

MITCHELSTOWN, a neat little town, 21 m. N.E. of Cork.--See the magnificent seat of Lord Kingston, and the College, a liberal charity. See in the vicinity, at Brigowne, 1 m., ruins of Ch. and round tower: 1-1/2 m., ruins of Caherdriny Castle; 2 m., ruins of Carriganoura Castle. Castle Hyde near to Mitchelstown deserves a visit. The grounds are extensive, and the house is curiously seated at the base of a lofty rock. The park contains much diversified scenery, and is traversed by the romantic Blackwater. See the marble quarries, esteemed as handsome as any in Ireland; of a dark gray colour with various shades, and a rich display of shells. At Skehewrinky, see the cave in a limestone hill of dangerous descent, but beautifully encrusted with spar and resembling a vaulted cathedral.

MIDDLETON, half way between Cork and Youghall, at the N.E. corner of Cork harbour. See some ancient ruins of a Castle and Abbey; the Market-house; public Freeschool, an elegant building; some remains of Danish works and a large rath at Ballinachora. Several of the curiosities are noticed under CLOYNE.

MILL STREET, 20 m. N.W. is a small village, with some appearance of the linen manufacture. The roads are bad; but it has near it a continued range of mountains that deserve investigation, particularly two amongst them called the Papps, from their singular resemblance to the human breast, and having two little protuberances on the very summit of each, which enforce the resemblance more strongly: these Sir R. C. Hoare suspects to be carnedds or Tumuli. Near it see ruins of Clodagh Castle, feudal seat of the Mac Swinneys, once distinguished for its hospitality by an inscription inviting all strangers to enter; at Clondrohid, ancient Ch. and Danish encampments; and 1 m. W., on Lessecresighill, vestiges of a Druidical altar. At Kilnamartery, curious white rocks, at a distance resembling the ruins of a magnificent city.

RATHCORMUCK, 12 m. N.E. of Cork, a decent town, with Ch. and neat Market-house. See to the N. Cairn Tierna, a range of mountains with an ancient cairn, forming a conspicuous object. Glanmire is described by Miss Plumptre as a village in a beautiful and romantic situation:--trace the rivulet through the deep and picturesque glen. Glanworth has spacious ruins of an ancient Castle, and some remains of a Dominican Abbey, with good river scenery. 1 m. distant is a most curious sepulchral monument called Labacally or the Hag's Bed, said by tradition to have belonged to a giantess of whom many ridiculous fables are related. Its real history and antiquity are unknown: it consists of several broad flag-stones supported by others, and most of them of an enormous size, one no less than 17 feet long and 9 broad. The whole length of this vast tomb, which is hollow underneath, is 40 feet; in breadth 14; and the whole seems to have been inclosed in a circle of flag-stones about 14 feet from the outside.

ROSS, about 24 m. S.W. of Cork, may be visited from Clonakilty.--See a small Gothic Cathedral; ruins of Abbey, Barracks, and neat Market-house. Miss Plumptre describes the surrounding scenery as extremely pretty. See curious caves in the rocks by sea side. At Castlefreke good marine scenery. Castlehaven has ruins of several Castles, and remains of Spanish entrenchments in Elizabeth's time. At Dunmanway see some romantic scenery, with a curious natural wall of rocks. Glandore Bay is a most picturesque scene resembling an inland lake. At Kilmacabra see Lough Drine with Danish entrenchment on hill to the E. The lough is supposed by the peasantry to have the miraculous property of shifting all its islands on some holy day every year. At Miros are some curious rocks and caverns; see also Mount Gabriel with most extensive prospect, with a deep lough on its summit.

YOUGHALL, about 24 m. E. of Cork,--is noticeable as the spot where the first potatoe was planted in Ireland. Some good scenery around it; and cheerful in the summer as a watering place. See the Ch. a large Gothic structure with six Gothic arches on each side of the nave; partly suffered to decay, particularly the chancel, where there is a very fine east window of the purest Gothic. Here are several ancient monuments. The mineralogist will be gratified by visiting Clay Castle, about 1 m. S.W. from the town; a bold hill, on the strata of loose sandy clay, pieces of which falling upon the beach become a hard firm grit like freestone.

MINERALS.

Coal is to be met with in the barony of Duhallow; in the N.W. also iron. In Muskerry in the W. are curious red and white slaty pebbles, and in other parts are limestone and loam with symptoms of copper. But on the whole this district, though interesting to the geologist, is very deficient in mineralogy.

BOTANY.

_Althæa officinalis_, Marshmallow:--at Cable Island.

_Aquilegia vulgaris_, Columbine:--plains near Kilbullane.

_Arbutus Teredo_, Strawberry Tree:--on the mountains.

_Asplenium Adianthum nigrum_, Common Black Maiden-hair:--on the mountains.

_Asplenium Trichomanes_, English Black Maiden-hair:--on rocky soils.

_Cardamine bellidifolia_, Daisy-leaved Ladies'-smock:--on old walls near Cork.

_Cistus Helianthemum_, Dwarf Cistus or Little Sun-flower:--on on limestone hills near Castlemore, and in the barony of Muskerry.

_Cochlearia danica_, Danish Scurvy-grass:--on Cape Clear and elsewhere.

_Cochlearia officinalis_, Common or Garden Scurvy-grass:--on rocks near the sea.

_Convallaria majalis_, May Sally:--on the river Bandon.

_Dianthus Caryophyllus β_, Common Pink:--on the walls of an old castle in the market-place at Kinsale.

_Euphorbia hyberna_, Knotty-rooted Spurge:--in the mountains.

_Helleborus viridis_, Wild Black Hellebore:--in a meadow near Doneraile.

_Hypericum Ascyron_ (Lin.), Bruges-rose:--near Ballymaloe in the barony of Imokilly.

_Lavatera arborea_, Sea Tree Mallow:--on Cable Island near Youghall harbour in Cork.

_Lepidium latifolium_, Dittander or Pepperwort:--near Corkbeg.

_Mentha rubra_, Red Mint:--near the head of the river Lee near Lough Alloa.

_Nymphæa alba_, White Water-lily:--on the rivers Lee and Blackwater.

_Pimpinella major_, Great Burnet Saxifrage:--in woods and hedges on a chalky soil about Cork plentifully.

_Pinus Abies_, Common Fir:--in the mountains.

_Sambucus Ebulus_, Dwarf Elder or Danewort:--on the lands of Rathpecan near Cork.

_Saxifraga umbrosa_, London Pride, or None-so-pretty:--on all the rocks in the western districts.

_Sedum dasyphyllum_, Round-leaved Stonecrop:--on an old wall near Blarney Castle.

_Sedum Telephium_, Orpine or Live-long:--on walls and in pastures and hedges near Mallow and Doneraile.

_Taxus baccata_, the Yew-tree:--in several parts of Carbery.

_Vaccinium Oxycoccus_, Cran-berries, Moss-berries, or Moor-berries:--in moorish boggy grounds.

DONNEGAL.

The N.W. extremity of Ireland, anciently inhabited by the _Rhobogdii_ and _Venicni_; but in more modern history known as Tyrconnel. The whole of the western coast consists of a range of mountainous rocks, which in some places throw out branches that extend to the sea, or run between borders of sand. Between the mountains in the interior of the county there are extensive tracts of bog, in which are the remains of immense forests buried deep in the bosom of the vale, though at present the tourist travels for miles without a single tree to solace his eye. One part of the county, in the vicinity of Leichbeg and Glentes, presents a view of most singular appearance, consisting of an almost uninhabited waste of heath, with masses of granite protruding from the sides of the mountains; whilst here and there, wherever a little soil can be found, are small patches of cultivated land, with small cabins formed of dry stone, cement being unthought of. It is bounded by the Atlantic on the N. and W., by Tyrone and Londonderry on the E. and by Fermanagh and Leitrim on the S.

BALLYSHANNON, about 10 m. W. of Donnegal,--presents some pleasing scenery of beautiful landscapes, swelling hills cultivated, and with the bay flowing up between them. These hills are extremely picturesque, rising into various outlines, and dying away insensibly into one another. See Bridge of 14 arches; also the Salmon-leap, surrounded by most romantic scenery; a fine fall of water; perpendicular rocks forming the banks of the river, with bold views of the sea. Here also are some ruins of the once famous Castle of the O'Donnels, the turbulent feudal chieftains of Tyrconnel; and 1/2 m. distant, in a secluded but finely picturesque situation, the ruins of Asheroe Abbey. In the vicinity several Danish Raths. Belleek is a pretty village, 8 m. E. of Ballyshannon, and at the end of Lough Erne, whose waters here form two fine cataracts under perpendicular and well wooded rocks. Several handsome seats, particularly Castle Caldwell on the Lough, with ruins of several ancient Castles; but in Fermanagh.

DONNEGAL, the county town, is a decayed town 111 m. N.W. from Dublin.--It contains little worth notice, except an ancient castellated mansion of the Earls of Arran, which with the river and bridge is considered by Sir R. C. Hoare as forming a good subject for the pencil. Near it are the remains of a Franciscan Abbey (1505) in a most picturesque situation. See spacious market-place; mill-stone quarries in vicinity. The finest view of the Bay is from the bridge of Imber, whence towards the right is seen a lofty but distant mountain, with cultivated fields in the foreground: at the foot of another mountain a gentleman's seat with well grown plantations strikes the eye; and to the left the scene is diversified by a sand bank thrown up by the sea, and a high ridge of plantation on the western side of the river, with the bay appearing beyond it or seen through its waving interstices. Barnmoor pass is highly awful and grand, leading towards Lough Esk, about a quarter of a mile wide and 3 m. long, formed by mountains rising high on each side of a deep glen covered with heath, and frowning in deathlike silence. Lough Derg, 6 m. E. is remarkable for its Purgatory; founded as reported by St. Patrick, in a small island about 130 yards long and 50 broad. The Purgatory itself consists of a cave 16-1/2 feet long by 2 wide, so very low that a tall man cannot stand erect in it. Around it are the remains of several Chapels and holy circles dedicated to various saints of both sexes. Lough Esk lies at the head of the valley which communicates with Donnegal, and at the foot of the magnificent Ross Mountains; round it the scenery is sometimes awfully sublime, and sometimes rich and cheerful. The sportsman will find red deer on the hills, and char in the lake.

INISHOWEN BARONY.--Even in Ireland, it is considered wild, savage, and impassable, from want of good roads. But Mr. Wakefield represents it in a very different light, and worthy the notice of the tourist. The roads, he says, are very good; the land better cultivated than any other part of the county; whilst the views of Lough Swilly from it are exceedingly grand. See the agreeably situated house of the Bishop of Derry at Faun. Let the mineralogist visit the Arigal, on the eastern bound of the county, said to be the highest hill in the province; it is shaped like a sugar-loaf, and contains a quantity of mountain spar, with lead-mines in its vicinity. In this district is the parish of Cloncha, where are some remains of a large stone Cross sculptured with rude representations of various animals; also part of a Druidical circle of 12 stones, 6 feet high, forming a segment of a circle 60 feet in diameter. In the same parish see the great peninsular rock of Dunmore. In this parish are still preserved some traditionary fragments of Ossian. In Clonmany parish see the picturesque scenery round the Ch.; also a round tower forming part of the ruins of an ancient Castle; near it a castle on a pyramidal rock, not far from which is Mamore Gap, presenting the most sublime scenery of mountains, rocks, and ocean,--a district consecrated to the memory of Cuchullin and the heroes of other times: a Druidical altar here, is called Cuchullin's (or Fion Mac Cuil's) stone. Near Cromla, in this vicinity, is the site of the ancient Tura, so famed in those scattered traditionary fragments that form the basis of Mac Pherson's modern Fingal.

KILLYBEGS, about 12 m. W. of Donnegal, offers some fine marine and mountain scenery. See ruins of Abbey.