Chapter VII: Part 7

DROGHEDA, 18 m. S. of Dundalk, (partly in Louth, partly in Eastmeath, being divided by the Boyne) is also a county of itself. Here are 9 Catholic chapels, 2 Friaries, 2 Nunneries, and 1 Ch. (St. Peter's) elegantly finished, near which, in churchyard, see remains of ancient castle. The view on approaching the town is beautiful; house of the Catholic primate a striking object. Harbour good; trade extensive; supply of fish excellent. See Tholsel, a handsome edifice. St. Mary's, now a mere mass of ruins, with the exception of a roofed chapel, which is used for divine service; but it deserves notice for a lofty arch at the S. end, which marks the former splendour of the edifice. Bevrac Mount, a large artificial tumulus, stands about 600 yards distant. It appears to have been one of the large Raths raised in ancient times. The town is interesting for the part it bore in the Irish wars; and sustained a memorable siege in Cromwell's time. Near it is a thin blue stone, shaped like the bottom of a boat, on which many of the Catholics believe St. Dennis sailed over to France. Ascend the Boyne 2 m., and visit the field of battle where William conquered, and where Schomberg fell, also Walker the patriotic defender of Derry. The view of the scene from a rising ground, looking down upon it, is extremely fine. Mark the vale losing itself amidst bold acclivities; on the right the Obelisk on a rising ground, a noble pillar and judiciously placed. Let the tourist place himself at its foot, and recall the events of past times! Then proceed further 9 m. W. of Drogheda, where is a beautiful wooded glen celebrated as the route through which King William's army marched to the ford in the Boyne water on the eventful 1st of July, 1690. The scenery around is highly interesting. Collon village, 6 m. distant, must not be omitted by the statistical tourist, as an instance of what can be done in Ireland by modern improvement. The exertions of Mr. Foster, in this place, have been well appreciated by Mr. Wakefield, who describes it as delightfully situated amongst hills, whilst the extensive plantations of its benevolent founder are conspicuous in every direction for many miles. Mr. W. adds, that this domain commands a prospect of singular magnificence; the immediate foreground, looking N.E., consists of a declivity of tilled land bordered on each side by beautiful plantations; and the eye, then passing over some miles of country, catches a view of Carlingford-bay, forming a watery expanse of great extent, and of the coast stretching to a considerable distance, with the mountains surrounding the bay, and those of Mourne, still higher, and which have a blacker appearance. The blue colour of the bay, contrasted with the yellow tint of the sandy beach by which it is bordered, the Carlingford mountains in the vicinity, and the more elevated dusky ones of Mourne, stretching inland in the form of an immense amphitheatre, form, in Mr. W's opinion, a spectacle grand and magnificent. The village, when he visited it, consisted of about one hundred neat houses, all whitewashed; with a Ch. surrounded by trees, and a river running through it, over which there is a stone bridge; the whole much enlivened by a bleaching-green on its banks. All this, together with a cotton manufactory, has been the labour of 40 years. It is highly worthy of notice, and is easily accessible by the good roads in its vicinity. The botanist will receive much pleasure from the inspection of the very fine collection of indigenous and exotic shrubs which Mr. Foster has collected round his comfortable mansion. See also _Curwen's Letters_, vol. ii. p. 292. Observe the Ch. tower, of chaste Gothic architecture; the curious winter garden. In a romantic valley, 5 m. W. from Drogheda and about 1-1/2 m. from the banks of the Boyne, stand the once massy but now dilapidated ruins of Mellifont Abbey, founded for Cistertian monks, by O'Carrol prince of Uriel, in the 12th century, and a spot of great interest in the history of the English invasion of Ireland; for here died, and now lies interred, Dervorgilla, daughter of O'Malaghlin, king of Meath, a second Helen, who being married to Tigernach O'Rourke prince of Brefinny, was basely ravished by Mac Murrogh king of Leinster, who was in consequence forced to fly from his dominions, and sought that succour from Henry II. which led to the subjugation of the island. At the Dissolution it was given to Sir Edward Moore, who made it a castellated residence; but it afterwards became a ruin, and within the last fifty years has suffered extremely. The most curious part is a remnant of an octagonal baptistery. See _Hoare_, p. 242. Monasterboice, a village about 3 m. from Drogheda, has a good specimen of the ancient round towers, 110 feet in height and 51 in circumference, with walls of the thickness of 3 feet 6 inches. The door is at present only 6 feet from the ground; and it appears to have contained six stories, from the stones that project in the interior. The tower itself is built of a slaty stone, frequent in the hills in the vicinity; but the door is cased of freestone. Its summit is already in decay. Near it are the ruins of two Chapels; also two very curious crosses, the largest 18 feet in height, with a variety of sculptures. A good view is given by Grose. See _Hoare_, p. 237. Torfeckan village stands near the sea, and about 3-1/2 m. from Drogheda. It was once a place of some importance, though now a paltry village, with nothing remarkable but some towers of its ancient Castle, fast falling into decay; and connected with some ruins of an Abbey founded for nuns in the 12th century. Till within these few years the Castle had been habitable, and was a frequent residence of the Archbishops of Armagh, to which see it belongs. See ruins of Glasspistol Castle.

DUNDALK, 40 m. N. of Dublin, is one of the most ancient towns in Ireland, claiming an early foundation from its bay and harbour on the Irish Channel.--Being at the very extremity of what was called the "English Pale," it often became exposed to hostilities, and presented a mass of castles and towers, for the purposes of defence, of which some remains may still be traced. See the remains of an ancient monastery for Crouched Friars, since turned into an hospital: also some ruins of a house of Gray Friars, of which a curious square tower still remains; the prospect from its summit is rich and extensive. Notice the Market-house. Inquire for Dundalk cambrics. See handsome seat of Lord Roden, with curious antique portraits of Hen. VIII. and Anne Bulleyn; spacious gardens; extensive well wooded demesne. See Court-house, Gaol, Barracks, and Charter School. Town irregular, yet neat; many of the houses displaying considerable taste and elegance. About a mile westward, on the summit of a hill, seen for several miles along the great north road, and commanding a most extensive prospect of the Mourne and Carlingford mountains, are some remains of a fine old Danish station and rath; a little below which, the tourist will notice the ruins of an old Ch. or Chapel, enveloped in ivy, and pointing out a Catholic cemetery of great sanctity. On the side of the hill stands the Castle of Castletown, an ancient edifice with towers and battlements, but partly repaired and habitable, forming the offices to a more modern mansion close to it. This castle was taken and sacked in the 14th century by Edward Bruce; and there are some apparent vestiges of those times in earth-works on the side of the hill, towards the river. The village itself is small, and contains nothing else deserving of notice. Balrichan is a peninsula, about 2 m. from Dundalk, containing several curious antiquities; some Druidical remains; ruins of a Castle with subterraneous cave; the Giant's load, a massy stone 12 feet long, 6 feet square, resting on three uprights; Mount Albani, an earthen camp, with a tumulus: also Castle Rath, and the tower of Ballug. At Bellurgan, see the park. Piedmont, a beautiful residence of Lord Clermont; ruins of old Ch. and several Castles. Carrickasticken has several raths, or sepulchral mounts. Fanghar, 2 m. N., has curious artificial mount, composed of stones and tarras, 60 feet high. At Killincool, on the Atherdee road, a fine old Castle, with numerous vaults and secret passages. Lurgan Green, a smart agreeable village; and a few miles N., see the Jonesborough mountains, in all their native wildness. Near them is Ravensdale, romantically seated on the rise of a mountain, with fine hanging-woods on every side. On the summit of a rocky hill, 4 m. S., curious rath at Miltown; and, close to the frontier of the English Pale,--in appearance and situation very much resembling Bolsover Castle in England,--stand the majestic ruins of Roche Castle, now in a state of demolition, the victim of Cromwellian policy. It is well situated for defence; and the builder having adopted the form of the precipice on which it stands, for additional security, its form approaches near to a semicircle in the interior, though on the outside it more resembles a triangle. Its greatest length is 80 yards; its breadth at the broadest part is 40. At one corner is a lofty tower, once august but now in ruins. The view from it is not only extensive, but extremely fine.

DUNLEER, 10 m. S. of Dundalk, is a decayed village, but with good inns, being on the high north road; may be made a station for many of the objects in this vicinity.

LOUTH, 7 m. S.W. of Dundalk, is now but a decayed village, though giving name to the county; once famous for an Abbey and Priory, but all vestiges swept away.

MINERALS.

Nothing remarkable.

BOTANY.

_Artemisia maritima β_, a variety of Sea Wormwood:--on sea-shore.

_Bunias Cakile_, Sea Rocket:--on the sands near Maiden Tower near Drogheda.

_Cuscuta europæa_, Dodder:--on dry sandy banks near Maiden Tower near Drogheda.

_Lepidium ruderale_, Narrow-leaved Wild Cress, or Dittander; near the sea.

_Salicornia europæa herbacea_, Jointed Glasswort:--on the sea shore.

_Sambucus nigra_, Elder:--in hedges.

_Saponaria officinalis_, Soapwort:--in ditches.

MAYO

Forms the N.W. extremity of the island, and is one of the largest counties, with a great extent of coast. Great part of it is mountainous, boggy, and destitute of roads; but it contains much picturesque scenery highly deserving of investigation, particularly the two lofty mountains of Nephin and Croagh Patrick, the latter of which is an enormous pyramid, and may be seen 40 miles distant. This county abounds, especially in the rocky districts, with _Turlachs_, a name given to plains, some of them very extensive without any visible communication with brooks or rivers, which in the summer afford a rich and firm pasturage, but in the winter become perfect lakes; the waters rising and falling through rocky clefts in the bottoms. Bounded, S. by Galway; W. Atlantic Ocean; N. by Sligo; and E. by Roscommon.

ACHILL ISLANDS, 16 m. W. from Castlebar, lie at the mouth of Clewbay, and afford much amusement to the sportsman. The scenery wild and rude.

BALLINROBE, 11 m. S. of Castlebar, a well-built town. See Charter School and ruins of Abbey; ancient Castle, now Horse Barracks; the inn clean and comfortable. At Ballaghadireen, wild and romantic scenery; ancient Castle in ruins. Ballyhannys, 16 m. N.E. has ruins of venerable Abbey. Cong, now an inconsiderable village, was once the capital of the Kings of Connaught; and stands in a romantic situation between the Loughs Corrib and Mask. It contains some ruins of an Abbey, which, in consequence of its arches being partly semicircular and partly Gothic or pointed, is supposed to be as early as the 12th century. Long celebrated for its sanctity, it became for ages the sepulchral depôt of the powerful and the holy, the chieftain and the priest, whose dust lies mingled with its sombre yet majestic ruins. Near it a broad river rushes at once from beneath a sloping bank, and after a rapid course loses itself in the Lough. This is supposed to be the outlet of a subterraneous channel, through which the superfluous waters of Lough Mask are discharged. The scenery around is most romantic. Hollymount, 6 m. N.E., has a neat Ch.; also Newbrook House, seat of Lord Clanmorris. Lough Carra, 3 m. N., has some wild scenery, especially a tract of rocky ground, at a distance like an immense sheet of white stone, deserving mineralogical notice. Lough Mask offers some good scenery:--inquire for the gillaroo trout with gizzards like a fowl. Neal village, 3 m. S., with magnificent mansion of Lord Kilmaine. About 16 m. N.E., visit the Abbey of Urlare in a wild, romantic, secluded district. The walls are still entire, and were never very lofty; the eastern window is very fine, with the remains of an altar beneath it. It was anciently a place of great sanctity; and the sepulchral depository of the surrounding chieftains. Archdall states, from tradition, that a town once existed in its vicinity.

CASTLEBAR, 119 m. N.W. from Dublin, is the county town; of good appearance, and in a romantic situation on a river near the Lake of Raheens. See the venerable Castle of Lord Lucan; Barracks; two Bridges; and Ch. Memorable as being taken by the French in 1798. At Ball, or Ballagh, see remains of Abbey, lofty round tower, and holy well; and near to it the plains of Mayo, where once stood a city, with ruins of Cathedral and other vestiges. Belcarna, 2 m. S.E., in romantic situation on banks of a fine river; Ch., and mansion of Lord Tyrawley. Ballintubber Abbey has extensive remains, 5 m. S.W., a mass of ruins, but still offering some very fine specimens of ancient ecclesiastical architecture in its solemn Gothic arcades. Grose has given a fine view of the interior of the Abbey, which, he observes, was a noble structure, of excellent workmanship, and the whole admirably finished. The existing ruins are by no means equal to the original extent; but much gratification will be afforded by the examination of the chancel part, still in good preservation in consequence of the roof remaining, with two Chapels on each side into which the visitor is admitted through lofty Gothic arches. The roof of the chancel is curious, its groinings springing not from pillars, but from consoles in the side-walls, highly ornamented with sculpture. The great altar still remains under the east window, which consists of three arches; and the altars yet exist in the smaller chapels. See the noble arch, 45 feet in height, which once supported the now fallen tower; also the principal door, a pointed arch supported by pillars. In various parts of the thick walls are doors and passages, speaking of secrecy and seclusion, and dear to the lover of romance. Croagh Patrick mountain, 2660 feet high, presents a fine effect to the S.W. Foxford, 8 m. N.E., is in decay, but sweetly seated on the river Moy: near it are ruins of an old Castle, with lake, and ruins of Ch. At Kilkelly, 10 m. E. is a remarkable echo, repeating seven times clearly and distinctly, in a wild romantic glen, ornamented with thick foliage and a murmuring Stream. Lough Conn, 5 m. N.E., is surrounded by picturesque scenery; with ruins of Friary on Erew peninsula. Mount Nephin, a solitary mountain 2640 feet high, stands at the pass of Barnagee, with most extensive prospect, about 8 m. N. of Castlebar. At Strade, 5 m. E., are some very solemn ruins of an ancient Dominican Abbey of the 13th century, which contains some curious specimens of antique tombs of the superior order of Irish chieftains, adorned with figures in relief. See also the Gothic ornaments of the high altar. Whilst in this vicinity the antiquarian tourist will not neglect to visit the round tower of Turlogh, 70 feet in height, 9 in internal diameter, and having its entrance 29 feet from the ground. It is built close to the Ch.; or rather the Ch. has been erected so close to it as to touch it, and, though of more modern structure, is now in ruins.

KILLALA, a seaport, 15 m. N. of Castlebar, is memorable for the landing of the French in 1798. Situation pleasant. See Cathedral; episcopal palace; round tower. Ballina, 5 m. S.E., stands pleasantly on the river Moy, with a good salmon fishery; some ancient Castles in vicinity. Downpatrick, 12 m. W., has some remains of very ancient fortifications, with curious natural arch formed by the waves on the rocky shore; several other caverns and much romantic scenery in the vicinity. At Mullet in the western district is much scenery worth seeing, also a very ancient and curious monument in good preservation, called by Governor Pownall, in the 7th vol. of _Archæologia_, a ship Temple, upon the summit of a conical hill. The river Moy, which divides this county from Sligo, has on its banks three round towers, and ruins of several Abbeys. Moyne Abbey, 2 m. distant, has most venerable ruins in a romantic sequestered situation on the Moy. The ruins extensive and in good preservation; scenery most picturesque. 3 m. distant are some curious remains of an ancient Franciscan Monastery, called Rossarick. It is built of blueish stone, with arches principally Gothic. The tower remains, and has a confession-box of hewn stone with small oriels or little ears on each side, through which the penitents whispered their sorrows.

WESTPORT, 8 m. S.W. of Castlebar, is a regular built modern town, with many handsome houses and a most excellent inn, which renders it a good station for the tourist, as it lies well for the whole western district, in which there is much romantic scenery, diversified by marine views, lakes, and rivers. See Marquis of Sligo's elegant residence. Aghagower, 10 m. S.E., has ruins of fine old Abbey and round tower. Burrishoole, 5 m. N., has extensive ruins of Abbey. Carigahooly has ruins of Grana Uile's Castle. Croagh Patrick must be visited. Glanmire interests the mineralogist by its slate quarries. Morisk on the sea coast is supposed to be the place where St. Patrick drove all the venomous reptiles into the ocean. Newport Pratt has a good harbour with most romantic scenery, of mountain, rock, sea, and islands. Rockfleet is an old Castle of Grace O'Malley, or Grana Uile.

MINERALS.

Iron-ore in Clonean river.

BOTANY.

Requires a scientific explorer.

MEATH:--

_See_ EASTMEATH.

MONAGHAN

Is a hilly county, not in ridges, but scattered without any form or regularity. It is well cultivated and populous; and has several handsome seats, whose surrounding plantations give a cheerful effect to the scenery. Linen manufacture extensive. Bounded S. and W. by Cavan and Fermanagh; N. by Tyrone; E. by Armagh; S.E. by Eastmeath and Louth.

CARRICKMACROSS, 15 m. S.E. of Monaghan, is a considerable village, central to the southern district, with endowed school. Some small lakes in vicinity.

CASTLEBLANEY, 10 m. S.E. of Monaghan, is a considerable village with good Ch. Near it the Castle from whence it takes its name, the residence of Lord Blaney, a beautiful place, though on a small scale, seated on the banks of a well wooded lake, surrounded by pretty rising hills. Here are some ruins of the old Castle, but not of earlier date than the reign of James I. See neat Market-house, and examine the Improvement Farm at Blaney-lodge. Ballybay, 5 m. N.W., is a neat village, with 2 small lakes that merit notice.

CLONES, or CLOWNISH, 10 m. W. of Monaghan, is a comfortable village; station for the western district. See two Raths of Danish erection; remnants of Abbey for Augustines, also of ancient Castle. Market-cross of very antique appearance. Curious burial-places near the ruins of abbey, with ornamented tombstones. The Round Tower in the cemetery has walls four feet thick; contiguous to it a great tomb or stone coffin, with antique inscriptions. Close to it is an immense rath on summit of a hill. Numerous Danish forts all around. In Aghabeg, see numerous lakes: also the magnificent demesne of Dawsongrove, with mausoleum. Bellamont forest affords some very fine scenery. Near Clones is a well called Grana-buy-more, celebrated for curing the jaundice. Drum is a pleasant little village. Good plantations at Newbliss.

GLASSLOUGH, 5 m. N.E. of Monaghan, has a fine seat in vicinity, with a beautiful sheet of water. See Drumbanagher, to the W. a remarkable high hill, on the summit of which, remains of a fort, memorable in the rebellion of 1641. Emyvale is a pleasant little village in the vicinity; near it Eregil Ch., with numerous small lakes.

MONAGHAN, 63 m. N. of Dublin; the assize town. Town neat, but whimsically built, diverging triangularly from the centre. Handsome Market-house.

MINERALS.

Lead; antimony; manganese; ironstone; marble; coal; various ochres; fuller's-earth, and potter's clay. The principal lead ores are at Castleblaney, and contiguous to the Ch. of Clontibrett.

BOTANY.

Rich in aquatic plants generally, and in alpine plants on the Slievebaught or Slabay range of mountains, bordering on Tyrone.

QUEEN'S COUNTY

Presents an immense variety of objects to the antiquary; whilst to the statist it exhibits the effects of modern improvement, having become a fruitful and pleasant district instead of bogs and deserts. Bounded W. by King's County; N. by Kildare; E. by Carlow; S. by Kilkenny and Tipperary.

BURROS, 12 m. S.W. of Maryboro; a neat village, forming a good station for the western district, having an excellent inn. Ruins of Ballaghmore Castle, 3 m. W.; from whence may be visited Monaincha Abbey in Tipperary. Grantstown Castle near Rathdowny. On the hill of Kyle, a curious remnant of ancient judicature, the Brehon's Chair, or Fairy Chair, as called in the vicinity. It is very near the top of the hill, on its eastern side, and formed from the solid rock; was the judgement-seat and public court of the Brehon, or chief of the Fitzpatricks. See at Skirk, a very curious Pagan fane, situated on a lofty hill, from whence the eye has a most extensive range. It consists of an immense large earthen mound, the area surrounded by a deep entrenchment, and in the centre, a pyramidal stone 6 feet high, with the stumps of others which formed a temple. Towards the E. see a cromlech; and on the north side, contiguous to the Parish Ch., a high keep, or exploratory fort.

MARYBOROUGH, 40 m. S.W. of Dublin; the assize town. See ancient Castle, demolished by Cromwell. 9 m. S.W. is Abbey Leix, the seat of Lord de Vesci, a considerable domain covered with old timber, and intersected by the river Nore, which, with the woods, forms its principal charm, as the grounds are flat and unvaried. The statist will contemplate with pleasure several neat villages in its immediate vicinity, erected by the patronizing exertions of the noble landlord. Aghaboe, near Abbey Leix, has remains of ancient Abbey and Cathedral, of which little more than the chancel now exists; remnants of Gothic architecture, in the windows and various niches, canopies and concentric mouldings which yet adorn its mouldering walls; but much injured by a late rector. The Abbey of Aghamacart lies to the S. about 6 m. from Aghaboe, once very extensive, and now in ruins. At a distance nothing appears but the gloomy belfry; but the visitor soon arrives at an arch of good workmanship which opens into the body of the ruins, or rather into the remains of the chapel. There is, indeed, little to attract attention, were it not for a legendary tale, of a monk whose affection for a lovely nun was met with such reciprocity on the part of the lady, that gossip scandal would soon have spread her thousand wings. To expiate his crime and escape reproach, the monk flung himself from the battlements of a tower and perished; but the fate of the unhappy fair is wrapped up in oblivion. Aghamacart Castle, now forming a total yet picturesque ruin, is not of earlier date than the reign of Elizabeth. Ballinakill, 9 m. S., ruins of Castle, demolished by Cromwell. About 15 m. S.E., on a small point of land watered by the Barrow, stand the very picturesque ruins of Cloghgrennan Castle, deeply embosomed in foliage and entwined with ivy. About 4 m. E. is Dunamase, a hill fort, which, though almost in total ruins, affords to the antiquary and to the man of taste a very good specimen of the military manners of earlier times. Though standing on an insulated rock, its name signifies the "Fort of the Plain." This rock is inaccessible on all sides except the east, which, in its perfect state, was defended by the Barbican, of which a considerable part remains. Here began the principal defences, with ditches on each side, until stopped by rocks, where walls seem to have been erected, with two towers for the protection of the Barbican, from whence the visitor enters the Ballium or Bailey, the gate of which is 7 feet wide, with walls six feet in thickness, and the remains of a parapet crenelled and embattled. This leads to the upper Ballium, the gate of which is in a tower, from whence fragments of walls extend on both sides; here too was the keep, with a sally-port and prison. This fortress belonged to Dermod McMurrough, King of Leinster; but the present remains are rather of later date; perhaps the work of the Pembroke family in the 13th century. It is now repairing by Sir H. Parnell, with judicious attention to its gothic grandeur. Doonaun, a village about 16 m. S.E., has extensive coalpits, which claim the notice of the mineralogist by rocks of whinstone resting on a stratum or column of basaltes, 40 feet below the surface; below which are strata of slate and iron ore. Great Heath, or Rathean Common, 2 m. N. of Maryborough, is memorable for a battle in the 3d century between the people of Munster and Leinster; and the bones of the slain are often dug up at the present day. Killone Hill is conical, with curious cavern and subterranean lake, highly worth the tourist's notice. Near it a fine quarry of calcareous stone equal to Portland. The Maragah, or Margy Mountains in the S.E. present a fine field for the geologist. About 1-1/2 m. N. of Dunamase, the tourist will descry a small fortress, called Shean Castle, standing on the summit of one of the high, steep, conical hills, so frequent in this part of the county. It is still habitable, though its surrounding defences have been long in ruins, demolished in the Civil wars. Stradbally, 6 m. S.E., neat village, handsome Ch., good Market-house, and Charter School. See Brockly Park, the magnificent seat of Earl Roden; and Stradbally Hall, that of Mr. Crosbie: about 4 m. S. is Dun-cliun-poic, or Dun of Clipoke, an insulated rock with curious caves; near it is a tombstone with Druidic inscription. About 6 m. S. from Stradbally, stands the Castle of Timahoe, an edifice not older than the reign of Elizabeth, but now completely in ruins, having stood a siege in the civil wars, at which time it was dilapidated. Its area is now filled with cabins of the peasantry: there is nothing very interesting to the tourist; but close to it there is one of the ancient round towers, now fast mouldering away. The entrance is at a height of fourteen feet from the ground, and is ornamented with a chevron or zigzag moulding, a circumstance which opens a wide field of conjecture as to date and origin.

MOUNTMELLICK, 6 m. N.E. of Maryborough, is a pretty little village, perfectly in unison with its inhabitants who are Quakers. Near it see Ballyfinn, a modern house of the Rt. Hon. W. W. Pole: fine lake; noble lawns; elegant apartments; well wooded demesne; and most extensive prospects. See ruins of Cloneslee and Cuffe Castles; also freestone quarry at Rosenallis.

MOUNTRATH, 7 m. W. of Maryborough; pleasant little village on the Nore, with good river scenery. From hence the picturesque or geological tourist may visit the mountains of Slieve Boomy, or Bloom, in the N.W.

PORTARLINGTON, 9 m. N.E., stands partly in King's County, (where it has been noticed,) large, populous, and genteel. At Ballybrittas, ruins of Castle, demolished by Cromwell; with numerous country seats in vicinity; particularly Dawson's Grove, residence of Lord Portarlington. Near this town, see Lea Castle, famous in the wars of the 13th century, and standing on a rising ground. This edifice manifests the strength that was given to these dens; for its walls are 8 feet thick in some places, in others 10. It was 60 feet long, 46 feet broad; its arches all circular except one pointed one. The river Barrow secured one side, and filled the ditches of the other; so that it was only approachable by a narrow causeway 100 feet in length, a good defence before the introduction of artillery. See ruins of Morit Castle near Emo, in a wild valley, intersected by a rivulet.

MINERALS.

Coal and iron ore in Slewmargy; Chalybeate Spa, near Portarlington.

BOTANY.

Yet unexplored.

ROSCOMMON.

A small inland county, not remarkable for grandeur of scenery, consisting principally of rich, extensive pasturage, intermixed with considerable masses of bog. There are some pretty views on the banks of the Shannon, which forms its eastern boundary. For the mineralogist there is little to interest, as its basis throughout is almost one continued sheet of limestone. Bounded E. by the Shannon; S. by Galway; W. by Mayo; N. by Sligo; N.E. by Leitrim.

ABBEY BOYLE, or BOYLE, 20 m. N. of Roscommon, pleasantly seated on the river Boyle. See two stone Bridges, on one of which is a pedestrian statue of William III.; fine Ch. and barrack. In Lord Kingston's demesne the attention of the antiquary will be turned to the ruins of the ancient Abbey, which stand within it at the back of the town, presenting a most elegant specimen of the architecture of the 13th century, when it was founded for Cistertian monks in honour of the Virgin. It is now a mere picturesque mass of ruin, filled with lofty trees and much thorny underwood. The approach from the bridge is very grand; especially the effect of the tower, covered with thick foliage, and springing from great arches which were 45 feet in height before the ravages of time had spread the floor with the relics of the mouldering walls. The interior has once been very fine; solid walls fill up the spaces between the pillars, supposed to have been erected in the reign of Elizabeth, when this dissolved monastery was turned into a fortified post, for which it was certainly well fitted, and actually stood a siege from the Earl of Tyrone in 1595. The east window, when in its glory, must have been extremely beautiful. Near to the Abbey are some vestiges of one of the round towers; and every thing around it would tend to produce a most impressive scene, were it not that the cloisters have been long occupied as a barrack: yet the silence and gloom of the interior, with the solemn arcades, and the emblems of mortality that lay scattered over its surface, will not fail to gratify the contemplative visitor. Cambo Castle is about 2 m. distant. About 7 m. from Boyle, and upon the edge of a very extensive bog, are the ruins of the Abbey of Clonshanville, now almost a total ruin. Of the cloisters no remnant exists; but the tower, 60 feet high, forms a pleasing object, with the few Gothic fragments at its base. Croghan is immortalized as the residence of Cathmor, the friend of strangers: here is an ancient Rath, also a sacred Cave of the Druids, and near to it Relig-na-Riagh, or the resting-place of the Kings of Connaught, an immense cemetery in a circle 200 feet diameter. Visit French Park. See Kingston Hall, an elegant mansion of Lord Lorton. Lough Arrow, 3 m. N. of Boyle, is beautifully studded with wooded islands: also Lough Gara to the W. Lough Glinn is also in this vicinity; on its banks stands a noble mansion of Viscount Dillon, with some extensive grounds, of modern erection and improvement; and on the opposite shore the tourist may visit two ruinous towers, which are all that remain of a once very extensive antique fortress, a feudal residence of the old barons of Ophaley. One of these towers has long been used as a temporary prison.

ATHLONE, 12 m. S.E. of Roscommon, is principally in Westmeath, where it will be described.

ELPHIN, 13 m. N. of Roscommon, though an episcopal see, is only a small neat village, celebrated as the birth-place of Oliver Goldsmith. See the magnificent palace; also the Diocesan school-house. Ballintobber was the residence of O'Connor, king of Connaught, but now a dilapidated village. Here are some very extensive ruins of the ancient Castle, built round a square, flanked by four towers of different forms. The vestiges are in a most dilapidated state, but possess some further interest from an anecdote recorded by Grose of a young Irish _Gentleman_, during the civil wars, who behaved with the most devoted bravery in an action fought close to the walls. When victory declared for the Parliamentary forces, this youth, disdaining to fly with his party, placed himself at the corner of a ditch, where he defended himself with his pike against five horsemen who fired on him, when a gigantic English soldier, getting behind him, slew him. Being stripped and his cap taken off, long tresses of flaxen hair fell down, which exciting further curiosity, it was at length discovered that this unhappy youth was a female. See Lough Kee, a romantic lake, adorned with finely wooded rising grounds; on a peninsula are the very picturesque ruins of St. John's Castle. In the Lough is an island called _MacDermot's_, after a chieftain of that name, stated by tradition to have been of a very jealous disposition, and to have confined his wife in it, whenever he was engaged in any of the warlike contests of those turbulent times. If the legends, however, are to be credited, the lady certainly gave him sufficient cause for his jealousy; and all his precautions were unavailing: for it is said that her lover used to swim to his nocturnal visits as Leander did to Hero. The obstacles he had to surmount were indeed numerous; for the island is surrounded by a wall close to the water's edge, encircling a gloomy tower now overgrown with ivy. At present the interior is filled with trees, and the island presents a picturesque and singular appearance. On another island are the ruins of a religious edifice, supposed to be founded by the Culdees, and now called Ennismacreeny Abbey. The walls of the Ch. are yet standing, solemn and sombre, the windows being only long loop-holes; at some distance is a little dark Chapel, which sufficiently marks the gloomy seclusion of those superstitious times. Round Tower at Oran. Strokestown is a neat village; near it the magnificent mansion of Ross Mahon, Esq. Visit Tulsk, a mere hamlet, but worth notice for its antiquities. Here are some remains of an ancient Abbey, little known, and supposed to have belonged to the Dominican order. Nothing exists now but some bare walls, marking the site of the Ch., and part of a square tower; but it seems never to have been very lofty nor very extensive. Near it is Tormonia, the ancient residence of O'Connor, of whose Castle there are some remains.

ROSCOMMON, 70 m. W. of Dublin, is the assize town.--Ancient Castle stood several sieges in Elizabeth's reign and in the Civil wars; now an extensive mass of ruins. See the once august ruins of the ancient Abbey, founded by Cathal Crowdeargh O'Connor, king of Connaught, in the 13th century, whose tomb may be traced in its solemn aisle. Little remains except some shattered windows and ruined arcades. Near to the modern mansion of Castle Coote are some remains of the old Castle, erected by Sir Charles Coote in the reign of James the First. It stood two sieges during the Civil wars, but is at present a mere mass of ruins; forming, however, a picturesque object in the demesne. See elegant mansion at Castlereagh; and a curious battlemented house, called Donamon Castle, may be visited from Roscommon. Its appearance is extremely whimsical, being square with projecting turrets at the angles. A lofty range of stone steps leads up to a circular doorway, nearly as high as the roof; and within is a similar range leading to the upper apartments. It is in good repair and habitable. In front is the river Suck. About 7 m. N.E. of Roscommon, the tourist may visit the picturesque but not very lofty or extensive ruins of the Abbey of Clonthuskart, in such a state of dilapidation that little more can be accurately traced than the principal chapel, the eastern window of which must once have been extremely grand. Kilmaine is the demesne of the Crofton family, within whose bounds is the hill of Kilmaine, on the summit of which is a small ancient Ch., partly in ruins. The place is solemn and fitted for meditation, were not the visitor's attention completely engaged by the very extensive prospect which bursts upon him over no less than sixteen counties.

MINERALS.

Nothing remarkable yet discovered.

BOTANY.

_Aristolochia Clematitis_, Climbing Birthwort:--in the woods of Briole near Athlone.

_Cyclamen europæum_, Sowbread:--near Mount Talbot.

SLIGO.

Nearly half the outline of this county is maritime. Very mountainous, especially in the Coolavin district, where the Curlew Hills offer their virgin bosoms to the mineralogist. The ox mountain (Sliebh Dham) with a long train of desolate hills extends from the boggy maritime plains of Tyreragh; whilst the rough mountain land, from Lough Gilly, stretching eastward, is marked by the lofty eminences of Samore and Benbulb. Much lake and river scenery. Bounded S. by Mayo; W. by Atlantic Ocean; N. by Leitrim; and E. by Roscommon.

ACHONRY, 14 m. S.W. of Sligo, may be made head-quarters for the examination of the S.W. district; or the tourist may apply at Tobercorry, a few miles distant. 5 m. W. of it, on the river Moy, are the very picturesque and ivied ruins of Bennada Friary, whose lofty square tower, 70 feet high, forms a very striking object, starting from the thick foliage with which it is surrounded, on a rising bank amidst a range of meadows. Whilst in this vicinity, the tourist will be gratified by a ramble to the ruins of Court Abbey close to a small village of that name, and about 3 m. W. from Achonry. The way to it is not very agreeable, being mostly through bogs: it is, however, an object not easily missed, as it stands conspicuously in a small field, where its lofty tower, fifty-three feet high, frowns over the ruins below. The interior sombre and solemn; used as an open cemetery. Proceeding a little further, the visitor arrives, through a lofty Gothic arch, at a Chapel the windows of which were once ornamented with paintings, now obliterated. Here are also several pedestals for the statues of saints, but now untenanted; in the south wall are some slight remains of a window once rich in tracery. Passing into the western Chapel, observe a curious octagonal inverted cone, supposed to have been the receptacle for the holy water; and on the northern side of the chancel are melancholy memorials of mortality, the recesses in the walls being entirely filled with human skulls: the whole presenting a scene of desolation perfectly in unison with the wildness of the surrounding country. Not far from the village of Tubbercorry are some remains of an old Castle of the O'Hara. The country around is flat and boggy, and there is nothing to repay the labour of a visit.

BALLINAFADD, 15 m. S.E. of Sligo, is a small village, but will afford shelter to the tourist who wishes to examine its vicinity. See the ruins of ancient Castle, picturesque and pleasing, the feudal den of the clan MacDonough, with thick walls, circular tower, and most extensive prospects over the Curlew mountains, along Lough Arrow; and along a wild but romantic valley to the S. Ballymote, 5 m. N.W., has a Castle which presents a good specimen of ancient military architecture at the commencement of the 14th century, when erected by Richard de Burgo, the red Earl of Ulster, a man of high power and possessions. The ruins are still very extensive, and seem almost to bid defiance to time. Six round towers, one of which is 53 feet in height, flanked the walls that were 9 feet in thickness, with a gallery or covered way of communication all round. At the end of the town are some remains of the ancient Ch., with some finely pointed Gothic arches, and curious east window. Franciscan Friary. Somewhere in this vicinity is Corren, with curious caves called the Giant's House, with an approach cut in the rock, steep and difficult. Lough Arrow, already noticed under Roscommon, presents much romantic scenery. On its banks, in a wild open district, stood a Convent of Dominican nuns (1427) in honour of the Virgin. At present little remains except the Ch., called Ballindown Abbey, in sufficient preservation to show its ancient form, though unroofed. It consists principally of two Chapels united by a belfry, with this curious architectural whim, that the east and west windows only are Gothic, but all the others elliptical.

ENNISCROWEN, or ENISCRONE, about 28 m. W. of Sligo, may be visited by those who venture to explore the wild recesses of the barony of Tyreragh. Castle Connor, near to it, has curious caves, lined and roofed with great stones, on a hill, as yet scarcely noticed by the antiquary. Close to the sea stand the remains of the ancient Castle of Roslee, sombre and solitary. Little more now exists than one lofty tower, in the thickness of whose walls is a curious staircase leading to the gloomy apartments within. The Castle was originally of considerable extent, and near it runs a rivulet, traditionally said to have once been fitted with a weir for the purpose of catching salmon; the fish, by an ingenious contrivance, ringing a bell as soon as caught, and thereby giving notice to the cook of their capture. At Screen, 15 m. N.E., see Danish-Stone Rath on a hill.

SLIGO, 104 m. N.W. of Dublin, stands upon a river, by which the waters of Lough Gilly are discharged into a large bay, and which admits vessels of 200 tons up to its quay. See Court-House, Gaol, Barrack, Infirmary, and Charter School; Custom House and quays; much trade; good accommodations. Close to the town, and pleasantly seated on the river Gilly, near its confluence with the sea, stand the ruins of the ancient Abbey, of early foundation, but burnt down in the 15th century, and immediately afterwards rebuilt in a very superior style of sculpture and architecture. It has two large chapels divided by a square belfry, the tower of which is entire except the battlements, and resting on a lofty Gothic arch. The other arches of the Gothic colonnades are lofty, and enriched with foliage and angels. The Ch. is completely uncovered; three sides of the cloisters have an arched roof in pretty good preservation: their arches are semicircular; but a profusion of Gothic ornament exists in other parts of the edifice. The front and sides of the altar are ornamented with Gothic arches, foliage, and tracery; and there still remain pedestals for statues, whose sanctity could not work miracles against Time. The tourist must not neglect to notice the eastern window, which is very beautiful. Around the nave is a stone gallery; and at a height of several feet from the ground may still be seen the tomb of O'Connor, lord of Sligo, his figure and that of his lady kneeling on each side of an altar. Taking a ramble about 4 m. S. from the town, the tourist will see, at the foot of a small hill, the neat village and Abbey of Ballysadere, erected about the 12th century for Augustine monks. At present nothing can be traced but the arches of the belfry and a small part of the tower, built of black stone: not far distant are the picturesque remains of an ancient Chapel, with windows of cut stone, and some curious carved heads on the doorway. Visit Nymphsfield near Ballysadere, where there is a waterfall worth sketching. The Giant's Grave, or Lugne Clogh consists of several stones resembling Stonehenge. Innismurry is an island of the north coast, with curious subterraneous cells: also interesting to the sportsman. Lough Gilly abounding with romantic scenery; about 5 m. long, and 2 broad. Its greatest charm is Hazelwood, the beautiful seat of Mr. Wynn, at the end of a wooded peninsula which runs out into the water, and is seen to most advantage from the lake. On the opposite side of the lake, contrasting finely with the lawns and artificial arrangements of Hazelwood, is seen a range of rude mountains, partially planted and cultivated; beyond which is another range in fine retiring distance. In the island of Innismore are ruins of an old Ch. of the Culdees, covered with ivy, and marked by numerous superstitions. Knocknaree is a mountain of considerable altitude and extensive base, in a wide field of desolation. Malachwee hill has a curiously fantastic appearance, with extensive prospect. See Mercury, the modern castellated seat of Mr. Cooper, built of limestone.

MINERALS.

Silver, copper, lead, and iron have been found in various places; and some symptoms of coal in the mountains near Sligo.

BOTANY.

_Dryas octopetala_, Mountain Avens:--on the mountains.

_Saxifraga umbrosa_, London Pride:--in the hilly districts.

TIPPERARY

Is a very extensive inland county; but connected with the sea by means of the Shannon, which runs for a few miles along its N.W. boundary. It presents all the varieties of rude, uncultivated, mountainous districts, and of fertile plains, on a substratum of limestone, equalling any part of the island in richness and in verdure. There is also some beautiful and romantic scenery on the banks of the Suir, which becomes a magnificent river before it leaves the confines of the county. Bounded N. by King's and Queen's County; E. by Kilkenny; S. by Waterford and Cork; W. by Limerick, Clare, and Galway.

CARRICK ON SUIR, 10 m. S.E. of Clonmel, is on the verge of the county, and partly in Waterford, surrounded by magnificent mountain scenery, intermingled with elegant cultivation. See remains of ancient walls; fine old Castle of the Ormond family; Ch. monument of Earl of Tyrone: examine woollen manufactures; visit Shliebnemon, one of the highest mountains in Ireland.

CASHEL, 10 m. N.W. of Clonmel, affords much research for the antiquary, as it seems to have been dedicated, from the earliest times, both to religious and civil purposes: for here was a pagan temple, and here the monarchs of Munster were crowned, seated on a lofty stone. See modern Cathedral of handsome Grecian architecture; Episcopal Palace; Market House; Sessions House; Charter School. Examine ruins of old Cathedral seated on the rock of Cashel, particularly Cormac's Chapel, of which the inside length, says Ledwich, is 47 feet; the breadth 18; the height of the roof 54. This Chapel has a chancel and nave; and on square pillars, adorned with a lozenge net work, rest round columns as on their pedestals, from which spring the arches. These columns are short and thick, and have bases, tores, capitals, and entablatures, rudely executed: the portal is semicircular, with nail-headed and chevron mouldings; the windows are half circles also. Notice a crypt 53 feet long, and eighteen broad within divided into a nave and choir, the crypt itself being arched and supported by short and massy columns. A figure of an archer mounted on some ideal quadruped is placed over one of the doors, and the canonized bones of Cormac are supposed to lie under the altar. In the body of the cathedral, and on the S. side of the choir, is a lofty monument of the 16th century, of Milar Magrath, Archbishop of Cashel, with an epitaph written by himself. The approach to the cathedral is very fine. See lofty gate and western tower; chapel dedicated to the Apostles, and curious subterranean passage supposed to lead to Hore Abbey; steeple rising from four fine arches; ornaments round the windows. In the town, inquire for the remains of Franciscan Abbey, at the back of Friar-street; also of a Dominican Friary. Near the rock, on a flat amidst some rich scenery, are the ruins of Hore Abbey, of early erection. Its remains are still very fine; but when sketched by Grose, they were indeed noble, with a lofty tower 20 feet square, resting on two fine arches, 30 feet in height. The nave was 60 feet in length, with gothic arcades and lateral aisles; and there may still be traced a small low arched room, evidently a confessional, as it contains niches in the walls with holes for the penitents to speak through. About 3 m. from this city, see the ruins of Athassel Abbey, of the order of St. Augustine, founded by William Fitz Adhelm in 1200: one of the noblest religious structures erected by the early English invaders. These ruins are still very extensive, and present a good idea of Monkish times and manners: the choir, in particular, seems to have been of great magnitude and splendour, 44 feet by 26; and the nave nearly of the same dimensions; the whole having been 117 feet in length. See a curious small chapel in the S.W. corner; also the cloisters which were extensive; the steeple, square and lofty; and in short, the whole mass of arches, walls, windows, monuments, &c. A good engraving of it is given in Ledwich's Antiquities. Emly, about 14 m. W., on the borders of a lake, with ruins of Ch., a large stone cross, and holy well. In this district the picturesque tourist may visit the Galtees, a range of mountains with sides nearly perpendicular, and highly romantic. Golden, a small village, forms a station for several curiosities, with ruins of a Castle, on the river Suir. Sir R. C. Hoare says, "that a round tower, with the river, bridge, &c., form a good subject for the pencil." The accommodations are good, at the Castle Inn. Visit Thomastown, the demesne of Lord Landaff; an ancient mansion; also Suir Castle, residence of Lord Massy. At Shrone Hill, a large unfinished house of Lord Milton's. Tipperary contains merely one long street, but gives name to the county.