Chapter V: Part 5

LISNARICK, about 10 m. N.W. of Enniskillen, is a small hamlet, but may suffice as a station for the northern bank of the lower lake. Close to it is Castle Archdall, a magnificent mansion; and 2-1/2 m. further, see Cash, an inconsiderable village, but amidst fine scenery, with ruins of a Castle.

LISNESKEA, 12 m. E. of Enniskillen, is a decayed village, but may serve as a temporary station for the Upper Lake; and as there are many genteel residences in its immediate vicinity, the tourist, if so inclined, may trust to Irish hospitality. See ruins of old Castle at Calla Hill, across the lake; ruins of an old Ch. at Donough, 2 m. S.E.; Gola, 5 m. W., with some remains of a Dominican monastery; Newton Butler with a handsome Ch.; and Wattle Bridge, where are some fragments of a Druidical temple on the banks of the river; also St. Mary's Ch., and two small lakes.

LOUGH ERNE is 20 m. in length, and covers nearly 48,000 acres. It has been little noticed by tourists; yet its beauties deserve some leading directions. Those who have time to spare, or the artist who wishes to devote his time to study, may employ a few days very agreeably in perambulating its limits, so as to catch each point of view under the various effects of morning and evening tint, or even noon-tide radiance; but where a day only can be allowed for seeing it, that day will be most profitably spent on the island of Bellisle, where the Earl of Ross has a most delightful residence. Here we may introduce an observation, regard to which will often be highly useful to the picturesque tourist.--It is, that the same view presents a very different appearance when seen at the commencement and at the close of day. In no part of the world is this, perhaps, more noticeable, than in Ireland, owing to its moisture, raised into vapour by a meridian sun, condensed by cold winds rushing in through extended valleys, through the day, settling in the dells or fringeing the mountain tops in the still repose of evening, or rising like a curtain at the influence of the morning beam. In pursuance then of this hint, the hurried tourist, especially if pedestrian, should proceed to Bellisle at the earliest dawn, and he will find himself sufficiently occupied until the nightfall in traversing its limits round an extent of 200 acres consisting of all the variety of hill and dale, with partial sprinklings of lawn, interspersed with ancient woods of considerable extent, in some spots exhibiting all the deep majesty of shade, in others opening into more cheerful clumps, or scattered breaks of foliage. The varied surface exhibits the whole contents of this woody scenery to great advantage, presenting, even in what may be called the home views, sufficient amusement for a day; but much increased by its junction with the surrounding scenery at every break in the hills, and at every verdant point jutting into the lake, particularly so in front of the mansion, where a reach of it passes under the eye of the spectator, reflecting the fine woods and rising banks that give beauty to the scene and shelter to the house itself. This part of the lake, being 3 m. in length, possesses all the charms of distance, and has in front another island clothed thick with wood encircling a bold eminence, appropriated to the purposes of a deer park, in the rear of which a lofty mountain gives almost a magic relief to the whole. This is finely contrasted, on a short turn to the right, by some clumps of rich foliage, and by several pretty islands starting boldly from the surface, broken into a thousand picturesque forms by the windings of the lake, and the whole body of water is lost in a narrow defile where hill on hill closes the view. Here too is every facility for viewing the lake in a double route; as the walks most commodiously surround the island at its outermost limits, besides leading to the best points of view in the interior; and indeed it will be proper not to omit the prospect from a handsome temple which commands the whole of this enchanting scenery. The grotto ought also to be visited, and attention paid to the effect on coming out of it, when the contrast presents a beautiful effect, in two of these islands appearing to join, the streight between them having the semblance of a deep bay, whose extremity is lost amidst the sombre foliage in the back-ground. Behind these is the hill of the deer park, the lofty mountains behind which for a moment draw attention from the nearer beauties; but these latter must not be neglected, as their examination in all the neatness of artificial culture contrasts finely with the bleak and wild surrounding imagery of nature. The widest part of the loch is in the vicinity of Castle Archdall, where it resembles the sea, and presents a charming panoramic prospect if viewed from the little island of Ennismachcent, no less than 27 isles and islets surrounding the spectator. The prospect to the N. is the finest, when Castle Archdall is seen in all its glory of wood and water reaching on the left to a noble bay of considerable extent, bounded by lofty mountains softening into distance, and shrouding in their bosom a much venerated Roman Catholic cemetery, with a large stone cross standing on a pedestal at its entrance.

In Lough Erne, the most celebrated island for holy purposes is _Devenish_, in which there are a round tower and considerable ecclesiastical ruins, some as early as the 12th century. These buildings are of the Augustinian order of monks; and the most ancient part is called St. Molaise's House, a vaulted building of hewn stone; coeval with which, in Mr. Ledwich's opinion, is the round tower; and both, as he supposes, of Danish origin.

MINERALS.

The mineralogist will find little here to interest him; but the geologist may discover much food for research; especially in the bogs that lie N. of Enniskillen, where sea shells are often found mixed in strata of white clay, 15 feet below the surface. This clay is calcareous; and the whole, in process of time, may become a bed of marble.

BOTANY.

_Bryum flexuosum_, Soft Bryum:--on rocks.

_Cicuta virosa_, Long-leaved Water Hemlock:--in watery places and rivers, in Fermanagh.

_Serapias latifolia_:--a variety of broad-leaved Bastard Hellebore; in woods and hedges.

_Vaccinium Myrtillus_, Black Whorts, Whortle-berries, or Bilberries:--on heaths and in woods.

GALWAY.

This county is maritime, and of great extent, being the second in the island. It contains several lakes; but as the scenery round these is not very romantic, they are but little known to the tourist; and the aspect is not improved by the dry stone walls or hedges; except in the western district, where the beautiful shores of Lough Corrib will repay the trouble of a visit, through an extensive tract of irreclaimable bog and mountain. On the sea coast it is picturesquely broken by numerous arms of the sea; and its rivers deserve the notice of the inquisitive tourist. Dr. Beaufort observes, that several of these rivers are subterraneous in part of their course: near the village of Shrull, on the borders of Mayo, the Black river runs under ground for about 3 miles; but the most remarkable fact is that of the Moyne and the Clare, which unite their streams under ground, alternately appearing and retiring from view at the Turlachmore, which in winter forms a lake and in summer a beautiful and sound sheepwalk, upwards of 6 m. in length and 2 in breadth. Bounded W. by the Atlantic; N. by Mayo; N.E. by Roscommon; E. by King's County, Tipperary, and the Shannon; S. by Clare, and Galway bay.

AGHRIM, 24 m. E. of Galway, is a small village; but noticeable as the scene of battle between Ginkle and St. Ruth in the war of the Revolution, 12th July, 1691, when the latter, with his French and Irish army, was completely defeated. The scene of action was on Kilcomodon Hill. See the beautiful demesne of Ballydonnellan, also Ballydugan; ruins of old Castles; and the magnificent demesne of Wood Lawn. But this place and its surrounding scenery may be visited from Loughrea.

ATHENRY, 10 m. N.E. of Galway, now in decay; once a strong English fortification; its walls built in 1211. See Dominican monastery, noble even in its ruins. The tower and several of the gable windows are very fine; but its appearance is much altered by a part having been fitted up for the reception of the garrison, the cloisters forming the modern barrack-yard. Ancient Castle of the Lords Birmingham, in ruins; with lofty tower and ivy-mantled walls, affording a good idea of the feudal manners on the borders of the Pale. At Knockmoy, 7 m. N., see ruins of a monastery, with an ancient tomb of the O'Connors adorned with sepulchral mementos in fresco painting.

BALLINASLOE, 30 m. E. of Galway, is on the very verge of the county, and interesting to the statistical tourist from its autumnal fair for cattle, under the immediate patronage of the Farming Society. (_See further Mr. Curwen's Letters_, vol. ii. p. 229.)

CLONFERT, 30 m. E. of Galway, is an ancient bishopric.--Visit the beautiful ruins of the Cathedral, especially the W. front (1270). This was the scene of frequent battles during the irruptions of the Danes. Hall speaks highly of this place; observing, that the planting and improvement about the Bishop's Palace render Clonfert a little paradise. Visit Shannon Bridge and the round tower, at a place called the Seven Churches.

GALWAY, the county town, is 102 m. W. of Dublin, formerly fortified and celebrated in the wars of the Revolution; but now dismantled, and every trace disappearing. The architecture of the old town gloomy and massive; of the suburbs, elegant and airy. See 3 Nunneries, 3 Friaries, and 3 Barracks; Court-houses; Infirmary; magnificent Gothic Ch.; massy Gaol; and coarse woollen manufacture. The bay is very fine, sheltered at its entrance by the isles of Arran; but the country around is described by Mr. Curwen as having the most singular appearance he ever beheld, resembling the seat of a volcanic eruption from the immense blocks of limestone scattered over a space of great extent, with scarce a symptom of vegetation. See ruined tower of Ballensnave Castle; Caher Morres, a small hamlet, 11 m. N., but with good inn, as a station for the northern shores of Lough Corrib; Clare Galway, ancient Abbey, with lofty tower and fine Gothic east window; also splendid ruins of a strongly built castle; Dun Aengus in the greater isle of Arran, is a circle of large stones on a lofty cliff, a remnant of ancient fortification: Rosserally has extensive ruins of a monastery (1498). Turlaghmore, already alluded to, may from hence be visited.

LOUGH CORRIB possesses some romantic scenery; and is about 20 m. long, and at the broadest part 11; being contracted in the middle so as to appear like two lakes. The collector may here pick up some very good specimens of pearls from a muscle peculiar to the lake. The scenery on its western shores is a chain of wild and stupendous mountains, with some few fertile valleys. It contains many pretty islands; and here is caught the gillaroo trout, with a gizzard like a fowl, esteemed a great delicacy. Headfort, on its northern shore, is a well-built village, with venerable Ch. and barrack; near it an ancient mansion of the St. George family.

LOUGH DERG is a wide reach of the Shannon, which may be visited from Portumna. In it is a beautiful island, on which is a round tower 70 feet high, and the remains of 7 Churches.

LOUGH REA, 16 m. E. of Galway, is a well built village, and will receive the tourist in exploring the eastern district as a central station. See the fine lake; pleasing prospects; ruins of the old Castle of the De Burghs; various castle ruins in the vicinity. Dalystown, the handsome mansion and demesne of the Daly family. Gort, 10 m. S.W., is a neat though small village, 2 m. from which ruins of Cathedral at Kilmacduagh, and round tower 112 feet high, inclining 17-1/2 feet from the perpendicular, being 4 more than the tower of Pisa. Here are places called the Swallows, into which several streams are engulfed, and rise afterwards into day. Kilconnel Abbey, in ruins, has a lofty tower and some fine arcades.

OUCHTERARD, 20 m. N.W. from Galway, is a small village, but forms a good station for the tourist who will persevere in examining the western district of the county. Here is a chalybeate, and its situation is considered peculiarly salubrious. If the tourist chooses, he may penetrate to Ballynahinch, a small village, but worthy a visit, being situated in that district called Connemara; mountainous, and intersected by numerous bays affording great diversity of scenery. It stands at the foot of the vast ridge of Beannabeola, or the Twelve Pins, consisting principally of perpendicular rocks, with a charming lake extending for several miles in its immediate vicinity; round which the hills are watered by rivers and small lakes, and sheltered by the venerable remains of ancient woods, among which are to be found a simple rude people, inhabiting what is generally called "Joyce's Country," forming a distinct class in manners and in appearance. The western shores of Lough Corrib may be visited from Ouchterard; also Lough Mask. See also the small district of Ross, N. of it, a sequestered spot, whose solitary wilds have scarcely yet been trod by civilized man.

PORTUMNA, 30 m. S.E. of Galway, and on the banks of Lough Derg, forms a good station for that district.--A neat village with wooden bridge across the Shannon. See the Castle, a venerable mansion of the Clanricards: ruins of an Abbey, walls nearly entire, the choir of parish Ch. Eyre Court, 2 m., a straggling village. See the venerable Castle. Numerous ruins of Castles in the vicinity. At Tynagh see ruins of Palace Castle in the midst of a grove; also the Ch. Near it Flowerhill, a delightful residence of Lord Riverston. Spring Garden, and other good seats of the gentry.

TUAM, 16 m. N.E. of Galway; large and populous.--See Cathedral; venerable Palace; elegant Mall. See Claddagh Castle in a wild and sombre district; Dunmore, with ruins of an Abbey; Newton Butler and Castle Bellaw, a fine seat, with ruins of a Castle.

BOTANY.

_Aquilegia vulgaris_, Columbine:--in woods near Clunetuescart.

_Crithmum maritimum_, Samphire:--in the Isles of Arran.

_Cyclamen europæum_, Sowbread:--at Milleek.

_Erica Daboicia_, Irish Heath:--on the mountains.

_Gentiana campestris_, Vernal Dwarf Gentian:--on the mountains between Gort and Galway.

_Juniperus communis_, Juniper:--on mountains.

_Lycopodium Selago_, Upright Fir-moss:--on the mountains near Galway.

_Senecio saracenicus_, Broad-leaved Ragwort:--in meadows and pastures and under hedges in Pallace near Tynagh.

THE LAKES OF KILLARNEY.

_Published by J. Booth, Duke Street, Portland Place, 1818._]

KERRY.

Famous in Ireland as the landing-place of the Milesians. This county was long impassable for tourists; but much has been done by the resident gentlemen, who have shortened many of the old roads, carrying them in straight lines over rocks and morasses, deep glens and rugged mountains; so that not only the approach to the Lakes of Killarney, but also to many other interesting tracts, is much facilitated. It is a maritime district, indented with numerous bays and harbours; rugged and mountainous, but justly celebrated for its lake and mountain scenery. It has been observed indeed by Mr. Wakefield, that in this county the attention of the tourist is so much occupied with Killarney, that the romantic scenery in other parts is either overlooked or forgotten;--yet it ought not to be consigned to neglect, as there is a great deal of it (though inferior to that of Killarney) which is still worthy of being noticed. Bounded on the N. by the Shannon; on the S. and W. by the Atlantic Ocean; and on the E. by Cork and Limerick counties.

ARDFERT, 4 m. N.W. of Tralee, is now a decayed village, though an episcopal see in early times. It has the ruins of a splendid Cathedral, with curious monuments and gravestones, and a sculptured figure of St. Brandon. Ruins of round tower. To the E., ruins of Franciscan Friary, a venerable structure, from whence follow road leading to the sea and mansion of the Crosbie family. Visit Ballyheigh bay with fine strand; ancient Castle of Ballykeal; Castle on Ferrit Island; Kerryhead surrounded by picturesque and savage wildness; Kilcroghan, where is a curious hermitage cut in the rock, also a Danish fortification; Lixnaw the ancient seat of the Earls of Kerry; Odorney Abbey in ruins; remains of Rahanane Castle, once an episcopal residence; and lofty round tower at Rattoo. The tourist must employ a guide in surveying this district.

CASTLE ISLAND, 9 m. E. of Tralee, a decayed village on the route to Killarney, though anciently the shire town. See parish Ch.; roofless town house, barracks, &c.--As there are some decent inns, the tourist may from hence visit some of the scenery to the E. of Killarney.

DINGLE, 16 m. W. of Tralee, forms a station for the wild western district.--See Gaol built on vaults of Old Castle. Notice the various houses built in Spanish fashion, with stone balconies. See the mansion of the Knight of Kerry; the ruins of an ancient Monastery; also of part of the old parish Ch. and monuments of the Fitzgerald family. 1 m. N.E. see the vitriolic spa of Ballybeg; also Burnham, or Ballingolin Castle. Whilst exploring the wild beauty of this vicinity, the tourist will be amply repaid for his labour, by a journey across the Brandon mountains towards Tralee Bay. The views which they afford are highly picturesque, and the prospects from almost every eminence are very extensive. Ventry Bay merits investigation; on the western point, Caher Trant, are remains of a Danish entrenchment, and another at Rathanane, near a ruined Castle of the Fitzgeralds; also a stone Cell near it. Some historical interest is given to this isthmus, by a tradition that it was the last ground in Ireland possessed by the Danes; and there is a curious story about it in Hanmer's Chronicle, illustrative of the manners of those early times. A little further west is what is esteemed the _furthest_ extremity of the island, to which, like Johnny Groat's house in Caithness, is given "a local habitation and a name," its appellation being "Tyvorney Geerane," or _Molly Geerane's house_. From hence the tourist may visit Blasket Islands, remarkable for the simplicity of the inhabitants, for ancient religious ruins, and for a great variety of aquatic fowls, some rivalling the ortolan.

IVERAGH BARONY forms the S.W. extremity of Ireland, and will afford great delight to a tourist who fears not fatigue and privations. Visit the romantic Lake of Currane, of an oval form, 3 m. in length, surrounded by lofty mountains. In it are three small islands; on one of which, ruins of a Ch. and Cell, with marks of foundations under water. See the river Inny, with ruins of Ch. and Bridge. Dowles Head is near Valentine Island: here are several large Caves, one of which has an entrance so low as scarcely to admit a boat with a man standing up, but within it is as high as a Gothic cathedral. There is a most curious echo; and when a person speaks, his voice is so reverberated from side to side as to seem louder than a speaking-trumpet. Glanbehy parish, the easternmost of the barony of Iveragh, has a most romantic but dangerous road, resembling that of Penmonmawr in Wales; and over which indeed, according to the traditions of the country, none but poets should attempt to pass; since in the opinion of its neighbours it is necessary to make some verses to its honour, otherwise, as they affirm, the traveller will meet with some mischance. Perhaps it was some similar superstition that gave rise to the custom of the _album_ in the monasteries situated in the mountainous passes of Switzerland and Italy. The Hags-tooth mountain is of great height, with many romantic lakes. Visit the Skelig Islands, containing several ecclesiastical ruins, and the scene of modern pilgrimages. They offer much amusement to the geologist. Valentia, in this district, affords slight accommodation.

KENMARE is a small neat town, within the compass of the Killarney tour, and a good station for much romantic scenery.--The approach to this town, even before it is seen, is very romantic; along a road winding up to the summit of a mountain, between which and another of tremendous altitude, is a deep glen, where the scenery is much improved by the contrast of the superincumbent rugged barrenness. "Here," says Mr. Wakefield, "the eye is sometimes attracted by a solitary herd of goats browsing among the heath below; while cultivation, gradually extending up the sides of the hills, forms a pleasing contrast with the desert and more prominent features of the prospect." In the vicinity are several small islands in Kenmare river, consisting of beautiful specimens of variegated marble. These islands are also interesting to the botanical tourist, from the varieties of Arbutus and Juniper, with the immense number of marine and aquatic plants which fringe their romantic sides. See the Fairy rock, and Glanerought vale.

KILLARNEY, 12 m. S.W. of Tralee, and 144 from Dublin, is the general station for viewing the Lakes, which take from it their usual appellation; but properly Lough Lane. It is a pleasant little town, and affords every comfort required by the traveller; but its great charm is in the Lakes, about 1 m. distant. A minute description of this beautiful scene is beyond our limits: we shall therefore briefly record the objects that deserve examination--but, for the convenience of the solitary tourist, to whom the expense of the usual exploratory routine would be enormous, shall first point out a route that will amply gratify the finest taste and the most insatiable curiosity. After visiting Mucruss Abbey, take a guide at the foot of Turk's mountain, and by a circuitous path climb its almost precipitous sides covered with wood, pursuing the course of a little stream that dashes from rock to rock concealed amongst shrubs and trackless underwood, through which brush your way with some little exertion until you arrive at an eminence opposite Eagle-crag, from whence at one _coup d'œil_ you take in the three lakes with their adjacent scenery. Here you view the lower lake like a circular bason, bounded on one side by romantic mountains, and having the rest of its banks finely studded with the town of Killarney, the seat of Lord Kenmare, Ross Castle stretching into the Lake, Mucruss Abbey, and villa, together with its numerous archipelago of islands, richly fringed with the arbutus tree. The lake is then seen contracting into a narrow passage with a small bridge, thence to Mucruss Lake at your feet, of an oval form, and perpetually wearing a gloomy and solemn appearance from the dark, sullen shadow of Turk's Mountain that frowns upon it, covered half way up with sombre firs. Beyond this is Mangerton, the highest mountain in Ireland, at whose foot a serpentine stream unites the upper lake with the others, traversing a valley or dell between Turk's Mountain and the Eagle's Nest; behind the latter of which, the seat of the celebrated echo, you will see the sublime chain of mountains called M'Gillicuddy's Reeks. If your good fortune shall place you in this situation whilst visiting parties are traversing the lakes with their et-cetera of horns and swivels, then the effect is most sublime, infinitely more so than can be felt by the tourists on the bosom of the lake. Return by the Flesk bridge, and conclude the tour by a visit to Aghadoe, Ross Castle, and any other objects that may be pointed out by the numerous guides who frequent this interesting spot. To facilitate general investigation, we shall now sketch the routes, and record a few observations of the most recent tourists. The lakes are three in number: the largest, or Lower Lake, contains 3000 acres; Mucruss Lake, to the south, covers 640 acres; and the Upper Lake has 720. Mr. Wakefield observes that since Mr. Young's visit to Killarney, the timber which clothed the mountain Glenaa has been cut down, and the stumps are now copsed; but the young trees had not yet (1812) attained to a great size, being only twenty feet in height. At that period, however, they were sufficient to cover the mountain with foliage, which, waving before the breeze, gave it a much more lively and agreeable appearance. The trees also on the islands near the town have fallen under the destructive axe,--a loss much to be regretted by the lovers of sylvan beauty, as it cannot be repaired until after a lapse of many years. Mr. Wakefield adds, however, for the satisfaction of the picturesque tourist, that although it is a general complaint that the views of Killarney have been destroyed by those sweeping falls of timber, yet he only acknowledges them to be "injured, no doubt, in some small degree; but the views here are still almost unrivalled, particularly in regard to that species of beauty which arises from mountain scenery of the most magnificent kind, and which the hand of man has not the power to alter. It will therefore remain to delight every traveller who has the pleasure of seeing it, unless the face of the country should be changed by some grand convulsion of nature." As a further guide to the tourist it may be mentioned here that Mr. Wakefield recommends the bridge which joins the peninsula to Breechan Island, as a fine station for a view. The peninsula itself he considers as very fine: to the S., see Mangerton and Turk mountains in all their glory, sinking down to the rugged point at the Eagle's Nest, where there is a view of Glenaa, the immediate foreground being filled up with Breechan and Dyne's Islands, beyond which is seen the Lower Lake, with Ross Castle, whilst the distance is completed by the town of Killarney, and the island of Innisfallen. The Upper Lake he describes as an immense reservoir, in a hollow between stupendous mountains, the rugged, rocky, and almost perpendicular sides of which may be said to overhang the water, whilst the whole scenery is of the most awful and extraordinary kind, such as very seldom occurs, and on a scale of magnificence hardly to be equalled any where else, except in the wildest districts of Switzerland. Sir R. C. Hoare observes, that the collected beauties of this favoured spot are so great, so varied, and so superior to any thing that he had ever seen in Italy, Switzerland, or England, that to delineate or describe them he felt impossible. His route was to embark at Ross Castle, then stretch across to Innisfallen and see ruins of Abbey thickly embosomed in wood; thence in a westerly direction to O'Sullivan's Cascade, finely disposed in a thick forest, whence he coasted under Tomies mountain, where the view opens magnificently at Glenaa Point, where see the cottage. From thence to Turk's Lake under Brickeen bridge. See Turk's Mountain, majestic and perpendicular. Back to Glenaa Cottage to dine, and return to Killarney. On the following day proceed to Mucruss; ruins of Abbey: eminence in park, with bewitching view of Mucruss, Lower Lake, and distant mountains, a most exquisite panorama. The Upper Lake occupied a third day. Embark at Ross Island. Stretch across to Glenaa, where tourists must land whilst the boat is tracked or pushed up a shallow stream. Examine the arbutus. The boat is again tracked at the old weir bridge, where view the Eagle's Nest, and fire a swivel for the echo, or sound the bugle-horn. Enter the Upper Lake; view the Sugar-loaf, the reeks, and Purple mountain. Accommodation at cottage on Ronan's Island; but the tourist must carry his own provender. See long-extended range of rock and wood at Cromiglaun; descend the lake, and notice the numerous grotesque insulated rocks and romantic bays. A fourth day spent in visiting the N.E. shores of the lake by land, leads to the gap of Dunlo, scenery truly alpine, and highly deserving the artist's attention. Mr. Weld's routes can only be followed by a resident tourist; but we must record his recommendation to view the lakes by moonlight. Miss Plumptre first ascended Mangerton, and praises the effect of a bugle-horn at the Devil's Punch-bowl. On a second day she visited the Upper Lake; then the Lower; and on a third day, the Gap of Dunlo, Dunlo Castle; finishing on the fourth, by visiting Mucruss, the scenery in its vicinity, and Turk's Lake. Mr. Curwen embarked at Ross Island, visited the rock called O'Donoghue's prison, Cherry Island, Glenaa, the first day. The second day was spent on the Lower Lake; thence to Turk's Lake, Upper Lake, Eagle's Nest, Ronan's Island; alpine scenery of M'Gillicuddy's reeks, 3695 feet, and superior in effect of sublimity to Mont Blanc. Return by Turk's Lake and through the islands to Ross. Having recommended the ascent of Mangerton to the tourist, it may be proper to point out the objects which will then gain his attention; and, on this route, following Mr. Wakefield, it may be observed that on attaining a certain height, the Lower Lake, then the only one visible, has the appearance of an inundated marsh; but, ascending still further, the channel to the Upper Lake and a fine expanse of mountain scenery burst suddenly upon the view, as if by some magic charm; the whole forming a most extensive landscape, enriched by the variety of tints arising from the aërial perspective fading into the remotest distance. Near the summit is the crater of an extinguished volcano, now called the Devil's Punch-bowl, but little more than a large hole filled with water; proceeding a little beyond this, a new prospect opens with grand effect upon the eye, showing the Iveragh mountains like an ocean of wild confusion, with that large arm of the sea, called Kenmare river, stretching a great way inland, and beyond all, the wide expanse of the mighty Atlantic, seeming in the distant horizon to unite its azure surface with the fainter coloured sky: to the S. is seen Cape Clear; to the N. are the blue Dingle mountains, M'Gillicuddy's reeks immediately towering above the spectator, whilst the eye, glancing towards the interior of the island, catches a partial view of the far distant Galtee mountains of Tipperary. Grand as this panorama must be, the guides will hold out a strong temptation to the adventurous tourist to attempt the enjoyment of one still finer by the ascent of M'Gillicuddy's reeks, from whence the harbour of Cork appears like a map extended at the spectator's feet, whilst to the S.W. may be seen many of those huge headlands which form so conspicuous a feature in that part of the Irish coast. Here too the Dingle mountains dwindle into mere hills, and Brandon hill, which, when near it, seems so tremendous, now appears little more than a hillock; whilst the eye passes over Tralee bay as a small indentation of the sea, hardly worth while to notice, and lost in the extent of the bay of Galway and the mountains which surmount it. In short, says Mr. Wakefield--an observation highly deserving the tourist's attention--those who go to Killarney without ascending _one_ of those commanding heights, though they may come away delighted with the high gratification derived from the rich scenery of Mucruss, the beautiful appearance of the islands emerging from the crystal flood, and astonished by the singularly wild and rugged views which the Upper Lake affords; yet will they know nothing of those grand, awful, and sublime scenes exhibited by nature, where objects of the most terrific kind are united in the wildest and most fantastical manner, exciting sensations not easily described in the mind of the admiring spectator. Nor will the ascent of Mangerton be found a difficult task even to the most timid: for various gulleys, hollowed out by the winter torrents, afford a road so easy, that the greatest part of the ascent may be accomplished on horseback. The tourist must expect to find his expenses considerable: he must carry his own provisions; and is expected to find provisions for his guides, or pay 2s. each per day extra. These guides will also force themselves upon him to a much greater extent than is necessary. The rates of the boats are regulated by Lord Kenmare's order; but the boatmen always expect more. The most remarkable objects in the vicinity are Aghadoe, 2 m. from Killarney, with fine view of the lake, with ruins of Ch.; at Ardtully, a geological curiosity of two rocks, one limestone upon a gritty soil, the other grit upon a limestone basis; Blackstones, a small village in the mountains amidst romantic scenery; Dunkerran Castle, of high antiquity; Dunlo, already mentioned: Glanfesk valley beyond the Upper Lake; Glanerought vale towards Kenmare bay, highly picturesque and romantic: at Kilgarvan, near it, the Fairy rock, amidst the mountains, with impressions of human feet; Killagh Abbey, a few miles E., in good preservation, a ruin with noble Gothic window; and ruins of Kilcolman Ch.

_T. Fielding fc._

_Lake & Mountains at Killarney_]

TARBERT, 20 m. N.E. of Tralee, is a thriving village, and contains a Sessions House, and a good inn with convenient accommodation. Upon a gentle eminence in the outskirts, stands the Ch. with a handsome steeple. Near to it is the Public School. To the left of it is Tarbert House, the seat of Sir Edward Leslie, in a situation which bears a striking resemblance to Mount Edgcumbe. Tarbert is a good station for those who wish to examine the romantic scenery at the entrance of the river Shannon; especially as extending westward towards the ocean. A ride along that coast first presents Rusheen, a pleasing seat and plantations, and Lislaghtin Abbey, with a good view of Scattery Island; then the island and Castle of Carrigfoile, anciently a fortified mansion of the O'Connors, almost impregnable in situation. Beyond this see the ruins of Beal Castle, the seat of a horrid murder detailed in the _Pacata Hibernia_. Its vicinity is romantic, commanding fine prospects, and abounding in game. To the west of it is a high cliff, called the Devil's Castle, inaccessible to all but the winged creation, whilst the shore at its base presents a great variety of romantic caverns formed by the dashing of the waves of a turbulent ocean, overshadowed by cliffs of most impressive grandeur.

LISTOWELL, between Tarbert and Tralee, is a neat little town on the banks of the Feal, with a decent inn. See the remains of an old Castle with a very high circular headed arch. On the banks of the river, see Woodford, with some remains of an ancient Castle, the seat of the Knight of Kerry.

TRALEE, 144 m. S.W. of Dublin, is a corporate and assize town, with a neat square in the centre surrounded by the Court-house and Gaol.--See the old Castle of the Desmonds, the Parish Ch., and some remains of an ancient Dominican Convent. The town is finely situated at the bottom of an extensive bay, surrounded by lofty mountains. Near it is a chalybeate spring. 2-1/2 m. see Ballybegan, with ruins of ancient Castle, and some curious caves, with a subterranean river, and various specimens of stalactite; also a quarry of dark grey marble interspersed with spar. Mineralogists may trace a vein of potter's lead ore running amongst the limestone rocks. Castlemain, about 4 m. S., is an inconsiderable place, but presents some pretty scenery on the river Mang which falls into the bay. Between Tralee Bay and Castlemain, are the lofty mountains of Sliebhmish. On the top of Cahir Conregh is a circle of massy stones, by some supposed Druidical, by others Danish.

MINERALS.

Mangerton mountain abounds in variety of minerals; whetstones; argillaceous iron ore; red and brown iron stones; spicular iron ore, adhering to quartz; and numerous siliceous stones, but no calcareous specimens.

Transparent crystals, generally known under the name of Kerry stones, are found in various parts. Many of these resemble the diamond in its property of cutting glass, but soon lose their hardness. The mineralogist must principally direct his search for them amongst the rocks and cliffs on the sea coast. Coloured crystals are found in the vicinity of the lakes: these often resemble emeralds, topazes, and sapphires. Some real amethysts have also been discovered.

Near Castle Island is found the once famous _Lapis hibernicus_, or Irish slate, formerly of some officinal reputation, abounding in common green copperas, or martial vitriol; also at Tralee.

At Dune, near Tralee, are pyrites, with sulphur, and iron ore.

Extensive iron works formerly existed at Glencarne, especially near Blackstairs.

A salino-nitrous spring at Magherybeg rises out of the sand; antiscorbutic.

BOTANY.

_Andromeda polifolia_, Marsh Cistus or Wild Rosemary: in bogs in Iveragh and Dunkerron baronies, and near Isaac-town.

_Arbutus Unedo_, Strawberry-tree:--on rocks and mountains about Lough Lane.

_Artemisia campestris_, Field Southern-wood:--in a field near Castle Island.

_Asplenium Adiantum nigrum_, Common Black Maiden-hair:--on the mountains.

_Asplenium Ceterach_, Spleenwort or Milkwort:--on rocks.

_Asplenium Ruta muraria_, White Maiden-hair, Wall Rue or Tentwort:--in a rocky cavern near Blackstones.

_Asplenium Trichomanes_, English Black Maiden-hair:--on the rocks in various parts.

_Astragalus arenarius_, Purple Mountain Milkwort; on the mountains about the Lake of Killarney.

_Atriplex portulacoides_, Sea Purslane:--near the river Mang near Callinafersy.

_Atriplex serrata_, Indented Sea Orache:--on the banks of the river Galey, plentifully.

_Cardamine bellidifolia_, Daisy-leaved Ladies' Smock:--in the islands of Lough Lane.

_Cheiranthus sinuatus_, Sea Stock:--near Beal Castle towards the Shannon mouth.

_Chenopodium maritimum_, Sea Blite or White Glasswort:--on the shore near Callinafersy, the bottom of Castlemain harbour.

_Cineraria alpina_, Mountain Ragwort:--on the side of Knockanore mountain, near Fell's Spa, in the barony of Iragticonnor.

_Cineraria palustris_, Marsh Flea-bane:--in ditches in the barony of Clanmaurice.

_Convallaria majalis_, Lily Convally, or May Lily:--in the island of Innisfallen.

_Cratægus Aria_, White Beam Tree:--in woods and hedges in a mountainous or chalky soil, plentifully.

_Cucubalus acaulis_, Moss Campion:--on the rocky mountains in Dukerron near Blackstones.

_Draba muralis_, Speedwell-leaved Whitlow Grass:--on mountains near the southern part of Lough Lane.

_Drosera rotundifolia_, Round-leaved Sundew:--in moist grounds near Lixnaw.

_Dryas octopetala_, Mountain Elder:--on hills near passage into the upper lake at Killarney.

_Echium italicum_, Wall Viper's Bugloss:--in sandy ground in Ballyheigh Bay near Ferrit.

_Equisetum hyemale_, Rough Horsetail or Shave-grass:--in a bog through which the river Buck runs near Lixnaw.

_Eryngium maritimum_, Sea Holly or Eryngo:--on sandy shores.

_Euphorbia hiberna_, Knotty-rooted Spurge:--on the mountains.

_Galeopsis villosa_, Hairy Dead Nettle:--in fields near Castle Island.

_Geranium maritimum_, Sea Crane's-bill:--on the strand of Tralee.

_Geranium moschatum_, Musk Crane's-bill or Muscovy:--on the abbey walls of Lislactin.

_Geum rivale_, Water Avens:--on the hills near the passage into the upper lake of Killarney.

_Herniaria glabra_, Smooth Rupture-wort:--on Lamb-head near the mouth of the river Kenmare.

_Hieracium paludosum_, Succory-leaved Hawkweed:--in Ballybog.

_Ilex Aquifolium (baccis luteis)_, Yellow-berried Holly:--on mountains near Lough Lane.

_Inula crithmoides_, Golden Samphire:--on rocks near Bolus-head in Iveragh, and elsewhere.

_Jungermannia epiphylla_, Broad-leaved Jungermannia:--in a wood near Beal Castle.

_Juniperus communis_, Juniper:--on the mountains.

_Juniperus Sabina_, Savine:--in islands at Killarney.

_Lepidium latifolium_, Dittander or Pepperwort:--near the head of Kenmare river.

_Lichen islandicus_, Eryngo-leaved Liverwort:--on the mountains of Iveragh near Blackstones.

_Lichen tartareus_, Welch Liverwort, Cork or Archill:--on rocks on the sea coast.

_Lycopodium alpinum_, Mountain Club Moss:--on the mountains of Toomesh and others near the Lake of Killarney.

_Lycopodium clavatum_, Common Club Moss:--on the southern districts on the mountains.

_Lycopodium Selago_, Upright Fir Moss:--on Mangerton and most other mountains near the Lake of Killarney.

_Ophioglossum vulgatum_, Adder's Tongue:--in moist meadows.

_Osmunda crispa_, Stone Fern:--on rocks among mountains in the southern baronies.

_Osmunda regalis_, Osmund royal or Flowering Fern:--in bogs of Irachticonnor; in a wood near Lixnaw and elsewhere.

_Paris quadrifolia_, Herb Paris, True-love, or One-berry:--in the wood near Ross Castle; near the Lake.

_Peucedanum officinale_, Hog's Fennel, Sulphurwort:--on the shores of Ballyheigh bay.

_Pinus Abies_, Common Fir or Pitch Tree:--in the mountains.

_Pinus picea_, Yew-leaved Fir:--in the mountains.

_Pisum maritimum_, Sea Pease:--on Inch Island in Castlemain bay.

_Polemonium cæruleum_, Greek Valerian, or Jacob's Ladder:--near Castle Island, in meadows.

_Polygonum Bistorta_, Greater Bistort or Snakeweed:--in a park near Tralee.

_Polypodium fragile_, Brittle Polypody:--on Mangerton mountains.

_Polypodium fragile γ_, a variety of the last; on the south side of the rocks called the Reeks.

_Polypodium rhœticum_, Stone Polypody:--on several mountains round the Lake of Killarney, near the new road to Glanerough.

_Pulmonaria maritima_, Sea Bugloss:--on the beach near Beal Castle.

_Rubia peregrina_, Wild Madder:--in the Island of Innisfallen.

_Rubus idæus_, Raspberry Bush or Framboise:--near Lough Lane, plentifully.

_Salsola Kali_, Prickly Glasswort:--on the sea shore at the bottom of Ballyheigh Bay.

_Santolina maritima_, Sea Cudweed:--on the shores of Ballyheigh strand.

_Saxifraga oppositifolia_, Mountain Heath-like Sengreen; among the rocks near Blackstones.

_Saxifraga umbrosa_, London Pride, or None-so-pretty:--on Mangerton mountain.

_Scrophularia Scorodonia_, Balm-leaved Figwort:--on the sea coast near the Magherie Islands in Tralee bay.

_Smyrnium Olusatrum_, Alexanders:--on a small bushy hillock near Crumlin Ch., about the shore near Dunkerton, the head of the river Kenmare, and elsewhere.

_Sorbus domestica_, True Service or Sorb; on several rocks about Killarney Lake.

_Solidago cambrica_, Welch Golden Rod:--near the Devil's Punch-bowl, on the west side of Mangerton mountain.

_Tragopogon porrifolius_, Purple Goat's-beard:--on the banks of the river Brick near Lixnaw.

KILDARE

Is an inland and small-sized county, soon traversed, and, with the exception of numerous Danish mounts, containing very little to interest the general tourist. It is, in short, little more than an extent of bog; and the famous Curragh of Kildare, so celebrated in the annals of sporting, is literally nothing more than a boggy down of about 3000 acres. Mr. Wakefield observes that the habitations of the poor are so extremely wretched that they add the appearance of misery and desolation to the general dulness exhibited by the face of the country. Unfortunately there is scarcely any thing to contrast with this; for the seats of the gentry, though much admired, are far from being numerous. Bounded by Meath on the N.; Dublin and Wicklow, E., Carlow S.; and W. by King's and Queen's Counties.

ATHY, 10 m. S.W. of Kildare, celebrated as the scene of battles in early history.--See ruins of two Monasteries. At Ardee, 1 m., Danish Rath. At Carmen, 5 m. E., Rath on conical hill, with extensive prospect. See Kilberry Abbey, and Kildangon Castle, in ruins. At Maistean, field of battle where bones are still dug up, of great antiquity. Rheban, 2 m. N., has a quadrangular entrenchment, the remains of an ancient city.

BALLITORE, a beautiful village, 12 m. S.E. of Kildare, situated in a valley on a winding stream. It is a colony of Quakers, with houses remarkable for neatness, cleanliness, and elegant simplicity, with highly cultivated gardens. See Belan House, the seat of the Earl of Aldborough, erected on, or near to the ruins of an old Castle which was demolished by Cromwell; after which another mansion was raised, since pulled down and rebuilt. It stands low, near the junction of two streams, which at the distance of 4 m. fall into the Barrow. Plainness and convenience seem to have been attended to on its erection, more than elegance, though handsome and substantial; the front and rear composed with breaks and ornamented with corner stone work; and the whole forming a good object at the end of a magnificent avenue. The visitor will be shown a bed which stood in the old mansion, in which it is said, by tradition, that both King William and King James slept in the course of the year 1690. The demesne is very extensive, and has the singularity of being in five counties, Kildare, Wicklow, Carlow, Queen's, and Dublin; and seven others may be seen from an eminence in the grounds, King's, Meath, Westmeath, Kilkenny, Wexford, Waterford, and Tipperary. Timolin, 3 m. S., see ruins of Castle, and Moone Abbey.

CASTLE CARBERRY, 12 m. N. of Kildare, is a station for the N.W. part of the county. See ruins of ancient Castle, (1180) with extensive prospect; also Newberry, a handsome seat of Lord Harberton.

CASTLE DERMOT, 18 m. S.E. of Kildare.--See ruins of Franciscan Friary, and Ch., close to which a round tower in good preservation, and beautifully enveloped in ivy; also remains of Castle, two stone Crosses, and three Pillars of great antiquity. A place of early celebrity, but now in decay. Kilkea Castle, 5 m. N.W., the property of the Duke of Leinster, presents the tourist with the agreeable picture of an ancient Castle fitted up for modern residence. Grose gives a very interesting engraving of it; and he describes it as situated on a rising ground and commanding an extensive prospect: near it is a Ch., and the river Grisso runs at a small distance. Having been partly rebuilt in the 15th century, it has a bawn or inclosure entered by an arched gateway, defended by a round tower which projects from the castle itself. In the front of the castle is the principal entrance, with an outer staircase. The whole forms a very interesting object.

CLAIN, 10 m. N.E. of Kildare, stands pleasantly on the Liffey; Ch. with lofty steeple; ruins of Abbey; ancient Castle, and extensive Rath; Aqueduct Bridge near it.

KILCOCK, 18 m. N.E. of Kildare, and on the verge of the county, is a populous but straggling village. Suffered dreadfully from the rebels in 1798. See Cloncurry, 4 m., with ruins of ancient Ch.; also Donadea Castle.

KILCULLEN, OLD and NEW, 7 m. S.E. of Kildare, with round tower, and remains of monastic buildings; bridge over the Liffey. At Castle Martin, curious Chapel and Mausoleum. Kilgowan, near it, has an ancient stone pillar on a hill. At New Abbey, see the ruins and monuments of the Eustace family. At Old Kilcullen examine the shaft of an antique Cross covered with rude sculptures, of which a good plate is given in Ledwich's Antiquities. The style is grotesque, and evidently Danish. Some of the figures are intended to represent priests engaged in religious offices; but the others are mere caricatures.

KILDARE is the county town, about 28 m. from the metropolis.--The Abbey is a very fine ruin, consisting of part of the tower and a considerable portion of the walls, containing six Gothic arches and as many buttresses, but entirely modernized. It is said that the ruinous state of the steeple is in consequence of the siege during the civil war, when its north side was knocked down by a Cromwellian battery. The south wing is a mass of ruins, but the antiquary may still notice two statues in alto relievo; one of which is the representation clad in armour of an ancient knight of the Fitzgerald family, surrounded by heraldic escutcheons; the other a bishop with his pastoral staff, and his mitre supported by monkeys. Close to the ruins is a Round Tower 132 feet in height, with a light battlement in pretty good preservation, being one of the best specimens in the island. The monastic annals of this town present the extraordinary instance of a _Sacred Fire_ having been preserved from the time of the Druids by Christian nuns of St. Bridget; a lady much celebrated for her virtues and her miracles. The place where this relic of heathen superstition was preserved, is still in existence, and now called the Fire-house. Of this fire many wonderful tales are related, especially that although it consumed great quantities of fuel, yet the ashes never increased. It was considered impious to blow the fire with the human breath, but only by a pair of bellows; yet people of plain sense might suppose that a holy miraculous flame would never require human assistance in any shape. It appears indeed that in the 13th century the Archbishop of Dublin performed a miracle in putting out this fire; but it was rekindled and continued in good preservation until the dissolution of the religious houses. The town stands pleasantly on the side of a hill; and the ancient Castle is partly habitable. The Curragh is a fine unequal down of short pasture, famous for its races; and contains 3000 acres; with remains of ancient Barrows or small Raths, which Sir R. C. Hoare supposes to be Druidical. The hill of Allen gives name to an extensive bog, and is celebrated for its cave where repose the remains of Oscar and other Ossianic chiefs, this being the hill of Temora in ancient times. Dunmurry presents great variety to the mineralogist. Kilmaoge has an ancient Ch. At Lackagh, 3 m. W., ancient cemetery with ruins of Ch. and Castle. Monasterevan, 5 m. S.W., has a modern built Ch. and Nursery for the Leinster Charter Schools: near it the venerable but beautifully repaired mansion of Moore Abbey, seat of the Marquis of Drogheda. At New Bridge, ruins of magnificent Abbey of Great Connell. Rathangan, on the banks of the canal, suffered greatly in the rebellion.

LEIXLIP, 8 m. from Dublin, near Lucan, a romantic scene of wood, rocks, and water.--Near it, at Castletown, is the finest house in Ireland, built by the late Mr. Conolly: a large handsome edifice situated on an extensive lawn surrounded by fine plantations, uniting with sombre woods and artificial scenery. From hence visit also Cartown, the picturesque seat of the Duke of Leinster; Summerhill; Dangan, &c. &c. See also the Salmon leap, with magnificent old Castle delightfully seated on a rising ground overhanging the Liffey, near which is the celebrated Aqueduct of the royal canal, being 85 feet above the river, equal to the famous Roman work at Pont de Gard in France. The village is picturesquely situated on the edge of the river, near a charming wild romantic dell, where high slopes covered with wood rise on each side above the water, having paths that lead to the Cascade. See at St. Woolstan's, 2 m. S.W., ruinous towers and gateways of ancient Priory (1208).

MAYNOOTH, 11 m. from Dublin, has lately become famous for its Roman Catholic College, formed to receive a great number of students. It has a large Inn and fine Market-house; also a Protestant Charter School, and near it are the ruins of an ancient Castle. Bishop's Court may be visited along with the beauties of Leixlip: it is a magnificent mansion and highly cultivated demesne of Lord Ponsonby. Celbridge, a modern built village, is highly worth notice, with fine stone bridge over the Liffey, and at the lower extremity an elegant Ch. lately erected. See extensive woollen manufactory; also at the S. end of the village, remains of a magnificent Abbey, now repaired, and converted into a habitation presenting all the external appearance of its former character, in all the gloomy grandeur of Gothic architecture. Castle Browne, not far distant, has recently been purchased for a society of Jesuits. Furnace is a beautiful seat, lately much improved, with ruins of ancient chapel in the lawn, in which is a window of painted glass of high antiquity and extreme beauty. At Oughterard, see ancient Ch. and Round Tower on summit of a hill. Prosperous is another modern creation, being founded by Colonel Brook in 1780, for a Cotton Manufactory: 1/2 m. distant from which, at a place called the Cott, is a strong sulphureous spa, richly impregnated also as a chalybeate, useful in scrophulous and cutaneous diseases.

NAAS, 10 m. N.E. of Kildare, was in ancient times the residence of the Kings of Leinster, of which it still retains evident marks in the existence of Moats or Raths of considerable elevation at its N. and S. extremities. See Court House; Parsonage House, built upon the site of an ancient Castle; and extensive Barracks. No remains of its original fortifications now exist; but the tourist will find a good inn, with a supply of post horses. Jigginstown, 1/2 m. distant, has been repeatedly noticed for the ruins of an elegant mansion begun by Lord Strafford in the unhappy reign of Charles I. It stands close to the road, and is vaulted underneath. At Johnstown is the ancient mansion and extensive demesne of Lord Mayo.

MINERALS.

In the Red Hills on the southern limits of the bog of Allen, the mineralogical tourist may derive great satisfaction from an examination of the copper mines which were opened there about 30 years ago. Dunmurry forms a kind of headland to the north of the chain of hills, and the loose stones on its surface frequently appear as if calcined in the fire, of a red purple colour, and sometimes tinctured with sulphur, generally considered as certain indications of the existence of copper. Here shafts have been sunk to the depth of 15 fathom in the solid rock, which is calcareous in many places; and here is also found a white argillaceous alkaline earth; together with calcareous spar, and a fossil said to be a poor silver ore. On the conical hill of Allen, about a mile distant, the vestiges of partial vitrification are even more apparent, and many of the specimens are richly impregnated with blue and green vitriol. Near Williamstown the mineralogist may visit the deserted works of a silver mine, and amuse himself with scientific research.

BOTANY.

_Narthecium ossifragum_, Lancashire or Bastard Asphodel:--in turfy bogs.

_Pinguicula vulgaris_, Butterwort, or Yorkshire Sanicle:--in pastures near Barberstown.

_Samolus Valerandi_, Round-leaved Water Pimpernel:--in marshes and moist meadows, at Monasterevan.

KILKENNY