Chapter VIII: Part 8

CLONMELL, 82 m. S.W. of Dublin, is the county town, and stands pleasantly on the river Suir, with good trade and a woollen manufacture. Accommodations good. See Market-house; Court-house; gothic Ch.; modernized Barrack, and Bridge of 20 arches. Few remnants of antiquity, having suffered much from Cromwell. Memorable as the birth-place of the facetious Sterne. Examine Medicinal Well for scorbutic diseases. Ardfinnan is an ancient village 7 m. S.W. from Clonmell, existing previous to the first English invasion, and seated on the river Suir, over which there is a long bridge of 14 arches. The town itself stands low, but close to it is a high rock, bold and picturesque, overlooking the river, selected by King John as a fit situation for an extensive castle, which suffered much from the cannon of the Parliament army in the Civil Wars, yet still presents a very picturesque specimen of military antiquity. It is square, with two lofty towers overlooking the town, and a high ascent to it on all sides, and at a distance seems perfect, as the greatest part of the walls and the principal gate are yet standing; but the inside is a total ruin, no roof remaining except over one apartment. Cahir, 5 m. N.W. from Clonmell, stands upon both sides of the Suir, surrounded by the extensive domain of Lord Cahir, which Mr. Wakefield describes as bearing evident marks of the good effects that may be produced by the patriotic exertions of an ardent mind directed to laudable pursuits, and anxious for improvements, contributing particularly by extensive plantations to increase the beauty of the county, which, in this vicinity, naturally abounds with wild and romantic scenery. See the remains of the old Castle, also the ruins of a very large building at Somerstown, near to Cahir. The ride from Cahir to Clogheen is described by Mr. Wakefield as being an object of research to the inquisitive tourist. He says "that proceeding through a valley which extends from the Galtees, the traveller finds himself between that range on the N., and the Knockmeledown mountains on the S., wild also in the extreme, the whole district being divided into fields, either by grassy dykes or rough stone walls." The latter mountains are exceedingly barren. They are covered solely with heath, which in the spring season is extremely black; and as their great height, at the time when Mr. Wakefield visited this dreary vale, completely intercepted the rays of the sun which lay hid behind them, every thing assumed a dusky appearance, which threw a gloom over the whole visible face of nature. Clogheen is situated upon a stream close to the bottom of these mountains, and the road to it forms a gradual descent of nearly two miles, with a lofty black mountain in front. It is a considerable thoroughfare, and has good accommodations for the tourist either of picturesque or mineralogical research. Ascend a long and lofty mountain about 2-1/2 m. to Baylough in a hollow, with a fine echo either from a bugle-horn or even a musquet. The view towards Clonmell very beautiful. At Kilshielan, see ancient tumulus, called a Fairy hillock. Knocklofty, residence of Lord Donoughmore; good house and grounds.

FETHARD, 7 m. N.E. of Clonmell, is in a decayed state, but affords accommodation for the eastern district. See remains of ancient walls; and some ruins of monastery. At Kilcooly is a very fine Ch., in excellent preservation, once belonging to a Cistertian Abbey. It is still roofed and entire, with gothic windows of rich tracery, and a handsome square tower, whose light battlements are luxuriantly enveloped in ivy. At Killenaule, see ruins of several old Castles, in the midst of rich scenery.

NENAGH, 30 m. N.W. of Clonmell, is a good station for the northern district. The approach is thus described by Sir R. C. Hoare, who says, "that leaving Birr, he entered the county of Tipperary, passing through a village with mills, and a small Castle; another ruined fort on the left; corn lands; a Castle in ruins on the right; a line of road as straight as if it had been planned by a Roman engineer; an extensive plain, with distant hills; bog; a slight ascent; a large bog on the right; a Ch. rebuilt, with the ruins of the more ancient one annexed. Corn pastures, and bog; road rough in parts; a gentleman's seat on the right; more wood; another seat on the right; the country improves; plain, bounded by some high hills." After this _flying_ picture, the tourist may alight at the New Inn, where he will find good accommodations. The town itself is large and regularly built, with the remains of a Castle, having a circular tower of strong masonry. The antiquary may trace the ruins of an Augustine Friary. In 1370, the English forces were defeated near this town, a small party having assisted Turloch O'Brian, by Brian, nephew of Turloch, who thence assumed his surname. See ruins of Knockalton Castle, 2 m. also Lough Derg, formed by the river Shannon, with fine scenery and antiquities, further noticed in Clare and Galway. Silver mines, so called from some virgin silver having been discovered in the lead ore: see Dunalty Castle. Toomavara, a small village, has ruins of a Preceptory of Knights Templars; also Blane and Knockane Castles.

NINEMILE HOUSE, that distance N.E. of Clonmell, is merely a travelling stage, but forms a good station for much wild mountain scenery in the Sleivh na Manna range. Near it the ruins of an old Castle, with the handsome residence and well planted grounds at Kilcash.

ROSCREA, 30 m. N. of Clonmell, stands on the very verge of the county, and is a thriving and wealthy town, on the post road from Dublin to Limerick, standing in a fertile and populous district. At the entrance of the town the tourist will notice the very curious architectural decorations of the Ch., with its Saxon doors and niches, its sepulchral crosses; and lofty round tower, 80 feet in height and 15 feet in diameter, possessing also the singularity of a window with a pointed arch at the height of 30 feet from the ground. The Castle (1213) is now a barrack. Monaincha, about 3 m. from Roscrea, and about 1 m. S. from the road leading to Burros in Ossory, cannot fail to be highly interesting to the antiquary as the birth-place of the long celebrated monastic order of the Culdees, a Christian but not Roman Catholic sect, that commenced in the 6th century, according to Ledwich, in this remote corner of the world, in a little island in the midst of a bog, sometimes called Innisnabeo, or the "Island of the living." Columba was their founder, as may be seen at large in _Ledwich's Antiquities of Ireland_, p. 56; and it is a curious fact at the present moment, that so adverse were the Culdees to the tenets and practice of the Church of Rome, as to draw down the wrath of the Vatican, and the festival of St. Columba was forbidden in the other parts of Ireland. The bog in which these ruins are now to be seen was formerly a lake: for Giraldus Cambrensis describes it as such in 1185, with two islands, one containing a Ch. and the other a Chapel; a fact that must render a visit interesting to the geologist. The geologist who directs his research to the bog of Allen will naturally visit this bog of Monela, which is but a continuation of it; and here he will not fail to notice the extraordinary fact, that what was the lesser is now become the greater isle. The easternmost of the two is the largest, and contains about 2 acres; in it stands the Culdean Abbey, of which considerable vestiges still remain. The tourist will particularly observe the arch of the choir, which is semicircular or Saxon, and on which sculpture seems to have exhausted her treasures: a nebule moulding adorns the outward semicircle of the portal, a double nebule with beads the second, a chevron the third, interspersed with the triangular frette, roses and other ornaments. It is also decorated with chalices, artfully made at every section of the stone, so as to conceal the joints. Here the ruins afford some research for the mineralogist, as part of the stones used are of a whitish grit, brought from the neighbouring hills of Ballaghmore, but being porous they have suffered much from the weather; whilst the columns of the choir are of a harder texture, close-grained, reddish in colour, and once highly polished. These have evidently been quarried on the S.W. side of the bog, and are a species of schistus, splitting into laminæ of six feet long, with which most of the abbey is cased without. Notwithstanding this, some ashen keys having in past ages been dropped on the walls and insinuated into the interstices, they have now become large trees, and add much to the solemnity and singularity of the place: unfortunately, the action of the roots on the walls threatens a speedy ruin to great part of this venerable edifice.

THURLES, 18 m. N. of Clonmell, is not only a place of considerable inland trade, but has long been a favourite residence of the Catholic primates of Munster, who carefully preserve various relics of St. Cormac. Here are the ruins of an ancient Castle, built upon a very extensive plan by the first Earl of Ormond in the 14th century. It surrounds a large area, and is flanked by several towers both round and square, with a lofty semicircular gateway. Like many other castles in this part of the country, it is a monument of the ravages of the Parliamentary forces during the civil wars. See ruins of St. Mary's Ch., built in 15th century, now falling rapidly into dilapidation; neat modern Ch.; good Market-house; Barrack, formerly a mansion of the Llandaff family; tower and some portion of an ancient Ch. of a Carmelite monastery. About 2 m. S.W. on the banks of the Suir are the very extensive remains of the Cistertian Abbey of the Holy Cross, founded before the 12th century by Donogh king of Limerick, and long esteemed as a spot of the greatest sanctity; and even in latter days considered as a very fine specimen of sacerdotal architecture. The Steeple, or Square Tower, is lofty, and attracts the eye at first approach: it is supported by a lofty Gothic arch, and its workmanship is highly finished. The body of the Ch. consists of a nave and aisles, not very profuse in decoration; but the chapels have been highly ornamented. The effect on entering the nave is very impressive, being a noble expanse of 58 feet by 49, with an arcade of 4 arches on each side opening into the lateral aisles. Passing through the choir, and turning to the S., the visitor discovers two small chapels, each about 10 feet square, and between which is a double range of Gothic arches, supported by twisted pillars, a spot supposed to be so holy that the monks were always waked there previous to interment. Two other chapels are seen on the north side; and in the eastern chapel, already noticed, there is a very curious Gothic tomb, without inscription, but said by tradition to be the sepulchre of a "good woman," who brought many holy relics to the abbey. Longford Pass, a small village on the road into Kilkenny, has ruins of several old Castles in its vicinity; also Newark Park. At Temple More, a neat and well built village, see handsome Ch. and spire; elegant mansion of the Carden family, and a romantic seat and demesne belonging to the Marquis of Lansdown; with numerous vestiges of ancient Castles.

MINERALS.

Lead ore, with silver, and silver mines; also pipe-clay and fuller's-earth. Coal mines numerous.

BOTANY.

_Ammi vulgaris_, (Linn.) Bishop's Weed:--on Killough Hill, near Cashell, plentifully.

_Hypericum Androsæmum_, Tutsan, or Park-leaves:--in woods.

_Leonurus Cardiaca_, Motherwort:--in hedges and among rubbish.

_Ophioglossum vulgatum_, Adder's Tongue:--in moist meadows.

_Ophrys bifolia_, Common Twayblade:--in woods.

TYRONE

Is completely an inland county, presenting nothing very grand or majestic; but the lands being divided into small parcels, an increased population gives much cheerfulness to its general aspect. The northern part towards Strabane is mountainous, other parts are rugged and uneven, but none very high. Bounded by Derry on the N.; E. by Armagh and Lough Neagh; S. by Fermanagh and Monaghan; W. by Donnegal.

AUGHNACLOY, 20 m. S.E. of Omagh, is a neat village, on the banks of the Blackwater, where the sportsman will find good trout-fishing. Near it are the ruins of Lismore Fort. It may be made the head-quarters for visiting the S.E. district.

CLOGHER, 20 m. S.E. of Omagh, is a poor village, yet an episcopal see of very high antiquity, once Druidical. See Bishop's Palace and handsome demesne; Cathedral, a plain building serving as the parish Ch. Augher near to it is a small village, once a borough.

DUNGANNON, about 30 m. E. of Omagh, a very handsome town with a pleasing vicinity. See Ch.; also remnants of Castle and Franciscan Monastery. Farm Hill, the magnificent mansion of Lord Northland, has a fine prospect of the town, with Lough Neagh in the distance. Arboe, 7 m. N., has remains of Ch. and noble Monastery founded by St. Colman, but destroyed by fire; with a curious cross 15 feet high. Caledon, a large village 8 m. S., has several handsome residences in its vicinity. Aghinnes, a fine seat of Lord Belmore; and Caledon, a pleasing mansion of Lord Caledon. Coal Island has extensive coal mines, with indications of iron ore. Near Cookstown, see Killyman, a very pleasant mansion and demesne. Stewart's Town, 6 m. N. of Dungannon, has some agreeable scenery. See Ardcreagh Ch. on a hill 3 m. distant; also Stewart Hall, 2 m. distant, a superb edifice with extensive park and gardens, the seat of Lord Castle Stewart.

NEWTON STEWART, 10 m. N.W. of Omagh, stands amidst pleasing river scenery on the Foyle. The picturesque tourist may amuse himself with much mountain landscape in its vicinity. See ruins of ancient Castle. The Marquis of Abercorn's seat at Baron's Court is supposed to be the handsomest model of a nobleman's residence in the kingdom. See the beautiful grounds and well wooded demesne, with a fine lake, from whence the ruins of ancient Castle, and the Ch. have a pretty effect.

OMAGH, 87 m. N. of Dublin, is the shire town. See ruins of ancient Castle, and some remains of an Abbey and Franciscan friary; with ruins of a curious Ch. 4 m. dist. Hall, vol. ii. p. 118, speaks of it as a very thriving place, on account of the linen and other manufactures carried on there.

STRABANE, 20 m. N.W. of Omagh, stands very pleasantly on the river Foyle, with some very fine prospects. A thriving place; forming a good station for much of the scenery of Tyrone, Donnegal, and Derry, with good accommodations; but Hall, vol. ii. p. 120, complains much of extravagant charges. See the remains of the once elegant ruins of Corock Abbey for Franciscan friars; also the seat of Lord Montjoy.

MINERALS.

Coals only have as yet been discovered; but it is supposed that iron exists in many places, as there are numerous chalybeates.

BOTANY.

_Agrostis canina_, Brown Bent Grass:--in very wet meadows in northern parts.

_Aira cæspitosa_, Turfy Bent Grass:--in the mountainous district near Strabane.

_Astragalus glycyphyllos_, Liquorice Vetch:--in upland pastures.

_Achillea Millefolium_, Yarrow:--on river sides.

_Crepis biennis_, Rough Hawk's-beard:--in meadows.

_Erica cinerea_, Fine Heath:--on moorlands.

_Eriophoron polystachion_, Cotton Grass:--in wet meadows.

WATERFORD

Scarcely equals half the extent of some of the larger counties. It is bounded on the N. by the Suir, on the W. by the Blackwater, and on the E. and S. by the ocean. Mr. Wakefield observes, "that two such noble estuaries as the Suir and Blackwater are seldom seen, abounding with magnificent and romantic scenery, combining with lofty mountainous tracts."

DUNGARVON, 21 m. S.W. of Waterford, is one of the greatest fishing-towns in Ireland, being situated near the Nymph Bank; but Mr. Curwen complains heavily of the bad accommodations which he met with: the town small; the streets narrow: yet persons returning from the lakes will do well to take this place in their route. Crossing the Ferry at Youghall, and passing through an uncultivated tract of mountain scenery, destitute of inhabitants, but highly susceptible of improvement, the tourist approaches this town, built on the beach, and appearing, from the descent of the mountain, as if it stood in the sea. Dungarvon itself will not detain him long. See Barrack on site of an ancient Castle; also ruins of Augustine Abbey of Gothic architecture; lofty steeple springing from a curious vault; ancient monument (1400). In the summer much company will be met with as a bathing-place. If the tourist is hurried, and without time to examine the whole county, he may take an interesting ride across it towards Clonmell. Leave Dungarvon, cross a valley of excellent land about 4 m. wide; turn round a projecting chain of mountains, and then see the small village of Kilmacthomas, from which village the first few miles exhibit the same face of country, till within a short distance of the banks of the Suir, where the eye is once more gratified with the appearance of trees. On the right, for nearly the whole of the way, there are magnificent views of the ocean, but not a gentleman's seat is to be seen in the whole distance between Youghall and Lord Waterford's seat at Curraghmore. Ardmore, 8 m. S.W. of Dungarvon, stands near the sea; a poor village, once episcopal. Examine ruins of two Ch. with curious sculpture; round tower, 100 feet high, 15 in diameter; St. Declan's dormitory in cemetery; St. Declan's stone, that swam from Rome to bring home his belt and vestments: Danish Raths. Dromana, the splendid mansion and demesne of Lord Grandison Duck's-pool, 1 m., ruins of Abbey. Kilmacthomas, 9 m. N.E., pleasing village, with good river scenery and fishing, and some remains of Castle. Whitchurch, 5 m. W., has curious cave called Con-a-glour, or the Pigeon-hole, 150 feet long, with subterraneous river, fantastical crystallizations, &c., from whence (or Lismore) the tourist may visit Oonamort.

LISMORE, 30 m. from Waterford, and now a scene of desolation, formerly an university, bishop's see, and a city! Here is a handsome stone bridge of twelve arches, erected across the river by the munificence of the Devonshire family, to whom the castle and estate belong; the castle now undergoing a complete repair. On the approach towards the town of Lismore the road falls into a beautiful glen which proceeds in a winding direction; whilst the sides of the mountains by which it is formed, are clothed with a profusion of oak and ash. A stream of considerable size, which discharges itself into the Blackwater at the town, runs through the glen, and adds considerably to its beauties. This fine scenery lasts for about two miles. Near the town are the remains of the immense Castle once the residence of the brave but unfortunate Sir Walter Raleigh. It is an interesting object, and appears once to have been a place of some strength, boldly situated on the verge of a rocky hill, rising almost perpendicularly to a considerable height over the river Blackwater, upon which the principal window of the great room of the Castle looks down, and from whence, it is said, James II. started back with horror. This Castle is of very high antiquity, having been built by King John upon the ruins of the Abbey of St. Carthagh. Dr. Smith, speaking of the view from the great window of the Castle, observes, that "opposite to it there opens a wide glen wooded on both sides, and pleasantly watered by a small river which, at the distance of a mile, winds off to the west side of the great mountain of Knock-mill-down, 4 m. N. from it, and which exactly facing this window appears like a vast cone or sugar-loaf. To the west is a full prospect of the salmon-fishery, where the weirs are of a considerable length, traversing the river,--the working and the noise of the water through them (that here runs pretty rapid) forms a kind of artificial cataract, and resembles the sound of such, which, though not high, is of a considerable extent, and adds a lulling softness to the beauty of the scene. Above the weirs, the sides of the river are beautifully variegated with woods, lawns, and cornfields." See the old Cathedral fitted up as a modern Ch. See view from the noble bridge, particularly pointed out by Mr. Curwen, exhibiting the majestic rock on which the Castle stands, the valley on the S. side of the river, which, though confined, is extremely luxuriant, and the hills rising boldly on the northern bank towards Cappoquin. Sir R. C. Hoare observes, that though the scenery on the Blackwater cannot be compared with that on the Wye, the Dart, or the Tamar, in England, yet he is inclined to think it cannot, for the long continuance of 20 m., be surpassed or even rivalled by any other stream in Ireland. It affords some good subjects, he adds, for the portfolio; of which the most striking and best adapted to the pencil are those at Balinatry, Strancally, and Dromana; but all must yield to Lismore. The tourist will find a good inn and a good salmon fishery. Aglish, 4 m. S.E., is near Dromana, already noticed under Dungarvon. See ruins of ancient Castle; also ruins of venerable Abbey, 1 m. Cappoquin, 2 m. across the Blackwater, has a wooden bridge and ruins of ancient Castle, with a most enchanting and extensive prospect. Curwen describes it as a small neat town, with several handsome seats ornamented with timber and very picturesque scenery in its vicinity. Sir R. C. Hoare recommends to notice Dromana House, rising perpendicularly from a rock completely covered with trees; the character of that bend of the river being richness, with cultivated lands decked with trees, and distant mountains: also Turin, a modern house on an old Castle, seat of Mr. Kane, a finely wooded dingle in front backed with lofty mountains; ruined Ch. on the left; flat islands planted with willows; quarries of limestone, one fine mass of which bounds the river on the left. Modeligo, 7 m. E., has ancient Castles of the Magraths. Oon a mort is a small cave, similar to that of Con-a-glour. Strancally is 6 m. S. towards the mouth of the river, with ancient Castle and curious cave, respecting which there are some horrid legends: and near it the handsome seat of Headborough, with venerable ruins of Molana Abbey. Tallagh, 6 m. S.W., is a poor decayed village, with Lessfinny Castle near to it.

WATERFORD, 75 m. S. of Dublin, is episcopal and collegiate.--From Carrick-on-Suir to this place the road passes through a district which exhibits a great variety of picturesque views along the banks of that river. From the nature of the situation, the city itself is not seen until the traveller is within a short distance of it, standing apparently in the bottom of a basin, with the Suir, about a mile broad and crowded with shipping, flowing close to its side. See the noble quay, about 1 m. in length, with a wooden bridge which has a drawbridge in the centre, adding much to the beauty and convenience of the city. Elegant modern Cathedral. Handsome episcopal Palace. 3 Parish Ch. 4 Catholic Chapels. Court-House, erected on Black-friars Monastery. Tholsel. Gaol. Custom-House. Exchange. Coffee-Rooms. Assembly Rooms, and Theatre. Remains of Franciscan Friary. The earliest remnant of antiquity to be seen here, is a circular tower situated in the eastern angle of the city walls, said to be the work of a Danish chieftain in 1003, and (after him) called Reginald's Tower. The bridge is constructed of American oak. It is 832 feet long, 42 broad, has two sets of piers, each of seven pieces, besides cut-waters. The longest pile driven was 70 feet; the depth at low water is 37 feet, and the rise of the highest tides is 17 feet. Here is an existing Catholic Monastery. See the Woollen and Glass Manufactories; also Clonegan Tower, 72 feet high, erected by the late Marquis of Waterford to the memory of his son. Carrickbeg, 12 m. W., opposite to Carrick-on-Suir, has ruins of Franciscan Friary, with a leaning steeple. Whilst in this vicinity the tourist will be gratified by a ride over the large demesne of Curraghmore, which in many parts commands the most extensive prospects of the surrounding country. Mr. Wakefield notices that from the tower the eye can trace the Suir the whole way to Waterford, while the ocean, stretched out along the coast on the S., forms in the remote part of the picture a very fine object. The house is seen to most advantage in front, as it is backed by wood which exhibits very grand scenery. There are some good paintings. The demesne is stated by Mr. W. to contain 2800 acres, of which nearly one half is covered with wood. The whole of this extended property is surrounded by walls; and it excels in mountain scenery and woody wildness. Kilmanahan Castle, a mansion recently erected on the site of an ancient Castle, and preserving the old style of architecture, which gives it a very venerable appearance, rising from the summit of a rock at a bending of the Suir, which here divides the two counties. This position gives it the advantage of a very extensive prospect; and Mr. Wakefield declares that grandeur, united with elegance, renders this one of the completest residences that he had ever seen. Here too the Suir runs with great rapidity, and is seen rolling his waters beneath well wooded banks, with the Galtees mountains in the distance. Visit Kilmeaden Castle, Ch. and Spa. Passage is the place of embarkation for the Milford Haven packets, with ruins of Ch. and most extensive prospect from Faithleag-hill. Good inns. Tramore, 6 m. S., is an excellent bathing-place; delightful village, with neat Assembly Room and all the usual accommodations.

MINERALS.

Granite is the basis; and here has been found a stratum of clay equal to that of Stourbridge for glass-house pots.

BOTANY.

_Allium carinatum_, Purple-flowered Mountain Garlic:--on pasture lands.

_Althæa officinalis_, Marsh Mallow:--in the isles of Icane.

_Asplenium Adiantum nigrum_, Common Black Maiden Hair:--on mountains.

_Carex dioica_, Small Carex:--in bogs.

_Carum Carui_, Caraway:--in meadows and pastures:--near Woodhouse in the parish of Stradbally.

_Canvallaria majalis_, Lily Convally or May Lily:--in a wood near the river Collygan.

_Crithmum maritimum_, Samphire:--on sea cliffs.

_Cucubalus otites_, Spanish Catchfly:--in a grove near Lismore, near the Blackwater river.

_Daphne Laureola_, Spurge Laurel:--in a wood near Mogehy in the parish of Whitchurch.

_Drosera longifolia_, Long-leaved Sundew:--on a bog near Ballycaroge.

_Eryngium campestre_, Common Eryngo:--in the sand near Youghal harbour.

_Gladiolus communis_, (Linn.) Sword Grass or Corn Flag:--at the upper end of the Conegary, at Dungarvon.

_Imperatoria Ostruthium_, Masterwort:--on Slatwood Hill near Lismore, and Tallow.

_Menyanthes trifoliata_, Buckbean:--on bogs.

_Osmunda regalis_, Osmund Royal, or Flowering Fern:--near Ballycaroge.

_Peucedanum officinale_, Hog's Fennel, or Sea Sulphurwort:--in the barony of Gualtier.

_Polemonium cæruleum_, Greek Valerian, or Jacob's Ladder:--on a bank of the Blackwater between Cappoquin and Lismore.

_Polygonum Bistorta_, Greater Bistort or Snakeweed:--on Slatwood-hill near Lismore, and Tallow.

_Solidago Virga aurea_, A variety of common Golden Rod:--on Cushean-hill near Dungarvon.

_Spiræa filipendula_, Dropwort:--on Cumeragh mountains.

WESTMEATH

Is an inland county, not very large, but extremely rich in verdure, mostly flat, though in some places pleasingly intersected with hills, many of which are finely wooded. In short, if not so picturesque as many other districts, yet the tourist will not be in want of subjects for his portfolio, as it contains many lakes pleasingly fringed with rich plains and wooded scenery. Bounded N. by Cavan; E. by Eastmeath; S. by King's County; W. by Roscommon and the Shannon; and N.W. by Longford.

ATHLONE, 20 m. S.W. of Mullingar, stands pleasantly on the Shannon, with fine scenery, particularly in Lough Ree. Formerly rich in antiquities; but almost all destroyed by fire in the civil wars, though now a town of considerable extent, and nearly in the centre of Ireland. In the town there is a strong Castle defended by numerous guns. See the pontoon or floating bridge, consisting of between 30 and 40 boats. Examine chalybeate spa. Many beautiful prospects between this and Ballymenach. Inquire for ruins of Monastery at Drumrany, or Drumrath; also at Kilkenny West, a small village. At Maghretibot, or the Field of Theobald, see the field of battle where Sir Theobald de Verdon fell in a contest with the Irish clans. Moatagrenoge, 8 m. S.E., has an excellent inn as a station for those who wish to explore this district, where there are the ruins of numerous old Castles, a good modern Ch., a seat of Lord Sunderlin at Ballinabon, and the venerable remains of Garey Castle.

BALLYMORE, midway between Athlone and Mullingar, has several objects worth seeing. Village small. Ch. neat: ruins of Castle; also of Killinney Castle near it. Lough Scudy has on its banks the ancient Monastery of Plassey.

CASTLETOWN DELVIN, 12 m. N.E. of Mullingar, is a small village, but a good station for several objects in its district. Near it is the ancient baronial seat of the Earls of Westmeath; of which a part is standing, consisting of an oblong square, with a lofty circular tower at each corner. Near it is a large Danish rath. See, in its vicinity, Baronston, the seat of Lord Sunderlin, a magnificent mansion, including the wings, 300 feet in front, seated in the midst of a considerable park, embosomed in excellent plantations, and surrounded by a charming country, richly diversified with lakes, hills, and mountain scenery. Clonmellon has an elegant Ch., with a steeple and spire, of modern erection, but in imitation of the Gothic. See small lakes to the N.W.

FORE, 9 m. N. of Mullingar, deserves a visit on account of Lough Lane in its immediate vicinity. See the ruined Ch. of Clonarney, and that of Archerstown, near a new-built seat of Mr. Battersby; also a seat of Mr. Smith. Between Archerstown and Fore, Sir R. C. Hoare notices a tumulus which appears to be sepulchral, surrounded by a fosse, but not so exactly executed as those on Salisbury Plain. But Fore also interests by its own ruins of parish churches, walls, and gateways, with the shell of a spacious Monastery seated in the vale below, dedicated to St. Fechin, first built in 630, and re-founded in 1209. Sir R. G. Hoare states that this Monastery presents a large pile of simple and unornamented masonry; the Chapel is still in a tolerable state of preservation, and has three narrow pointed windows. Lough Lane (already mentioned) a large piece of water with three wooded islands upon it: it produces good trout and pike. The scenery is not very romantic, for the banks are flat, but well cultivated. On its N. side the waters penetrate under the rock, and reappear on the opposite side of a hill near Fore, where they turn a mill. To the S. of the lake, at a short distance, is a raised earthen work, commonly called the "Fort of Turgesius," a chieftain of great military renown with the old historians. He lived in the ninth century. If any reliance can be placed upon topographical derivations, this vicinity must once have had a very literary character; for _Foure_ signifies the _town of books_, and _Lough Lane_, the _lake of learning_! This lake gives birth to two rivulets, which discharge themselves into the sea on opposite sides of the island. There are fine rides through the well cultivated country in its vicinity, especially in the road to Rochford, commanding in succession a view of a pleasing lake, Lough Derrin; the "Crooked Wood," a hill so distinguished for its foliage, though now denuded; and the beautiful wooded hill of Knockdrin. See Castle Pollard, and Pakenham Hall; also Loughs Armagh and Drin.

KILBEGGAN, 10 m. S. of Mullingar, is a pleasant village, with good river scenery in the Brosne. Some remains of Monastery. The artist may here find amusement.

KINNEGAD, 10 m. E. of Mullingar, is a mere village, but has excellent accommodations for the wanderer. On a hill near to it see ruins of Ardmullan Castle; also Kilbride Pass, where are ruins of ancient Ch. and two Castles.

MULLINGAR, 34 m. W. of Dublin, is the shire-town, with good accommodations. Some ruins of a Dominican friary; also Baronston, the seat of Lord Sunderlin, may be visited from this place. See beautiful Ch. recently erected. The statistical tourist will do well to consult _Curwen's Letters_, vol. ii. p. 249. Inquire for Horse-leap, 6 or 8 m. S., where are some remains of a very stately Castle built by Sir Hugh de Lacy, one of the earliest English adventurers; and another 2 m. distant. To the N. inquire for the beautiful demesne and elegant mansion of the Nugents, with remains of a venerable Castle in vicinity. To see Lough Derryveragh in perfection, go to Wilson's Hospital, delightfully situated between that and Lough O'Whel, or Hoyle. From the Hospital notice charming view of Lord De Blaquiere's residence and the romantic lake scenery, with a prospect over five counties. The Hospital is supposed to be in the centre of Ireland; its revenues are large. About 2 m. from Mullingar, from an eminence, there is a most extensive prospect of Lough O'Whel and Lough Ennel, looking towards Belvidere, which has the celebrity of being one of the most enchanting spots in the island. Lough Ennel lies between Mullingar and Kilbeggan, and is pretty extensive, its eastern banks decorated by many gentlemen's seats. Near this is the late Lord Belvidere's seat, at Belvidere, perched on the crown of a beautiful little hill, half surrounded with others, variegated, and melting into one another. Lough Ennel, many miles in length and two or three broad, flows beneath the windows, spotted with islets, whilst a promontory of rock fringed with trees starts into it; the whole bounded by distant hills. "Greater and more magnificent scenes are often met with, but no where a more beautiful or a more singular one." Multifarnam possesses the magnificent ruins of an Abbey of Franciscans, highly interesting for its connection with a most important period of Irish history. When the monasteries were dissolved, this abbey was given to an alderman of Dublin, one of whose successors permitted the friars to assemble here again, with a splendour nearly equal to their former state, having their organ and choristers in the Ch., with fine apartments for themselves, barracks for soldiers, and a large establishment for the reception of those who chose here to seek for shelter; and it is asserted that within the walls of Multifarnam was first concerted that rebellion which broke out in massacre in 1641. Enough remains to gratify the lover of ancient architecture, in its pointed gables, Gothic windows, and lofty tower 60 feet in height, and in its solemn cloisters which may still be traced. New-Pass, not far distant, is a pleasant mansion with good lake scenery. See Tyril's-Pass, a neat village with ancient Castle ruins.

MINERALS.

Nothing remarkable.

BOTANY.

A virgin field; but promising great variety of aquatics.

WEXFORD

Presents many interesting considerations to the English tourist, arising from its being the first active scene of invasion by the Anglo-Norman adventurers in the reign of Henry the Second. It is, however, a district very little noticed by casual travellers, who, perhaps from its apparent deficiency in mountain scenery, rashly pass it over _en route_, reserving all their admiration and praise for the more classical beauties of Killarney. Yet Wexford well merits investigation, not only for the magnificent and romantic views at every turn of the Slaney, one of the most beautiful rivers of the island, which divides it nearly in equal parts, but also for the immense number of Gothic castellated ruins which yet adorn its green eminences, the relics of feudal barbarism and of intestine hostility. Add to this, much of it is in a high state of cultivation; especially the baronies of Bargie and Forth, which yet are completely denuded of all kinds of timber. Bounded N. by Wicklow; E. by Irish Channel; S. by Atlantic Ocean; W. by Waterford, Kilkenny, and Carlow.

BANNOW, 11 m. S.W. of Wexford, may be visited along with Feathard and Clonmines. Here Strongbow landed, temp. Hen. II. Those fond of aquatic sports may visit the Saltees.

CLONMINES, 10 m. S.W. of Wexford.--In his excursions on the banks of the romantic Barrow, the tourist will not omit to visit the ruins of the once very extensive Abbey, with its light, lofty pinnacled tower, ivied walls, and elegantly ramified western window, formed of red grit, but completely whitened by the moss which enwraps it. Some fine specimens of ornamental sculpture are to be found in the architecture of the western door and in the arches of the cloisters, also on a monument within the Ch.

CLONEGALL, 21 m. N. of Wexford, is a small village: but here the tourist may commence his examination of the river Slaney. Visit Newtonbarry, the seat of Col. Barry, deriving great animation from the picturesque effect of river scenery combined with modern improvement, and the majestic range of Mount Leinster.

ENNISCORTHY, 8 m. N.W. of Wexford, stands agreeably on the Slaney. Ancient Castle fitted up as military depôt. Handsome bridge, six arches. Close to it is Vinegar Hill! A few miles to the E. is Courtown, remarkable for its evergreens, which grow to an immense size with a marine aspect. Near this also are the pleasing seats of Kyle and Bellevue, places of extraordinary beauty, and affirmed by Mr. Wakefield to be inferior to none in the British empire, abounding in magnificent scenery, richly planted, undulating and varied in their surfaces, and animated by the Slaney flowing between them, which often assumes all the grandeur of an expansive lake.

FETHARD, 15 m. S.W. of Wexford.--Ancient Castle, once in ruins, lately altered and modernized. Principal tower is an elegant specimen of the ancient military architecture, with its crown and battlements supported by brackets or consoles, and fantastic embrasures from whence the enemy could be annoyed in the old system of defence. Visit Dunbrody Abbey, on the Barrow; ruins magnificent; fine sculpture in W. window. Several ruins of Castles and Danish raths. Duncannon Fort is a good specimen of modern fortification, though of early foundation, having been erected for the defence of the river against the threatened attacks of the Spanish Armada, in the reign of Elizabeth. It stands on the flat surface of a lofty rock which overlooks the bay forming the entrance of the river. See the Hook Tower. At a distance of about 3 m. from the fort stands one of the most noble religious ruins in the island, Tintern Abbey, in consequence of its first monks being brought from that abbey in Monmouthshire by the founder, William earl of Pembroke, whose piety was prompted to a vow during a threatened shipwreck.

FERNS, 13 m. N. of Wexford.--On an eminence in the town see the ruins of the ancient Castle, one of whose fine circular towers is almost entire, containing amongst other apartments a beautiful chapel, the groining of which springs from consoles in the wall, but the flooring is gone. Over it is an arched room with embrasures or loop-holes. See ruins of Abbey; elegant Episcopal Palace; modernized Cathedral, with ancient tomb of St. Meoloch. Camolin is the seat of Earl Mountnorris.

GOREY, 21 m. N.E. of Wexford, exhibits the effects of rebellion in the destruction of several elegant seats in its vicinity. Here were horrible scenes of massacre.

ROSS, or NEW ROSS, 15 m. W. of Wexford, stands amidst fine scenery on the Barrow, opposite to the junction of the Nore. Several ruins of religious houses, and an existing monastery. Elegant wooden bridge. Fine view from the hill. In the Ch. of St. Saviour, see a curious monument, of as early a date as the commencement of the 14th century, but falsely attributed by tradition to a lady of the name of Rose Macrae, who is called sister to Strongbow, an anachronism which confutes itself. The female figure lies on the monument, with the hair reticulated round the forehead; and on the breast is a solitaire, from which a curious ornament hangs pendant. Here was fought one of the bloodiest battles in the late rebellion. (See _Hall's Tour_, vol. i. 98, for many curious particulars.) Near it is Scullabogue, where near 200 protestants were burnt to ashes in a barn.

WEXFORD, 67 m. S. of Dublin, a very ancient town. Vestiges of walls. See elegant modern Ch.; Court-house; wooden Bridge 2100 feet long, where 97 protestants were butchered in the rebellion. Trade and manufacture considerable. Small obelisk, to the memory of Major Vallotton. See some ruins of the Ch. and Abbey of Selksar, or the Priory of St. Peter and St. Paul, supposed to have been founded by the Danes. The antiquary will not fail to visit the majestic ruins of the Ch. of St. Mary, of which Grose has given a good plate, representing it as small but of excellent workmanship; being remarkable for its elegant arches supported by round columns, the cases and capitals of which are of peculiar construction. The shafts of the pillars are of hewn stone; but the remainder of the ruin consists of plain walls and unornamented windows. Amongst the sepulchral monuments which remain, there is a tomb with some sculptures, and a female figure recumbent, but for whom it is unknown. The choir is entered by a circular arch, the others are Gothic. To enjoy a very fine prospect go to Ferry Carrick, where the stream becomes contracted between considerable rocks. Here the tourist ought to land, and ascend the rising ground on the west side of this narrow pass. An inland bay, which appears unexpectedly, and animates the scene in no common degree, then opens to the view. This noble expanse of water is bounded by steep banks, all cultivated, and in some places covered with timber. To the E. the distant mountains, which are softened into the purple of distance, add much to the effect of the surrounding scenery, which, indeed, abounds with uncommon beauties. Immediately beneath is seen a handsome wooden bridge, painted white, which makes a very pretty object in this natural picture, still further diversified by the ruins of an old Castle on an opposite rock; a situation that seems to bespeak a sense of taste, as well as a sense of danger in the steel-clad chieftain who once frowned within its sombre walls.

MINERALS.

Schistus and argillite in the western districts. Siliceous pudding-stone in several places. Granite and limestone.

BOTANY.

Yet uninvestigated.

_T. Fielding fc._
]

WICKLOW

Is one of the best known in the island for its beauties, on account of its vicinity to the capital, combining within itself all the rudeness of uncultivated nature, the romantic effect of wood and glen, the sublimity of mountain outline, and the charms of extended ocean. It must be confessed that the interior offers little beyond the variations of mountain and bog; but the sea-coast is rich in the splendour of marine villas and the busy neatness of crowded watering-places, presenting a variety of the most beautiful scenery, which would afford delightful occupation to the painter, the poet, or the tourist, fond of delineating nature as it appears, unassisted by the artificial aid of man. It is true that there are no navigable rivers, but it possesses abundance of smaller streams, which running down from the mountains with great rapidity, discharge their waters into the Irish Channel. Noblemen's and gentlemen's seats are numerous; as those fond of rural retreats are attracted hither by the vicinity of the capital, and by the romantic beauties which abound almost every where, as well as by the uncommon mildness of the climate, which is peculiarly remarkable for the luxuriance of its foliage in evergreens, myrtles, laurels, arbutuses, &c. The larch is a favourite in all modern plantations; and the oak flourishes in the rocky glens. Bounded N. by Dublin; E. by Irish Channel; S. by Wexford; W. by Carlow and Kildare.

ARKLOW, 10 m. S. of Wicklow.--See Bridge of 19 arches over the Avoca; modern Ch.; Barracks in commanding situation; ruins of Castle, an old Tower forming part of the Barracks; and general appearance of town picturesque. See the mausoleum near to it, to the memory of the Howard family, conspicuous on a lofty hill. The picturesque and poetic tourist may amuse himself with tracing the romantic scenery of the Avoca and Avonmore. See Ballyarthur, the prospect from which, as described by Mr. Wakefield, must not be omitted by the tourist. This view is best seen from the terrace, which runs along the summit of the northern bank that forms one side of the vale of Arklow. The walk is 1 m. in length, with a summer house in one part where the view is very fine, below which a slope of great extent, clothed in wood, runs down to the united streams of the Avoca and Derry, proceeding in one channel into the ocean at Arklow. This hollow or valley is much wider than to admit of being called a glen, being about 1-1/2 m. in breadth; and from hence, looking directly inland, is a fine extent of mountain scenery, the most conspicuous feature of which is the Croan mountain fronting a woody bank which forms part of the vale and extends nearly 3 m. Following Mr. Wakefield's hints, the tourist will now direct his eye down the glen, where the river is seen pursuing its winding course until it is lost in cultivated fields, bounded by rocky heights of various forms and tint. On each side is a magnificent prospect of the ocean; and more immediately to the left lies a most delightful rising bank, covered with oaks, and forming the northern side of the river. Here, says Mr. W., the lively appearance of the woods, the tints of their waving foliage, the magnificence of the mountain scenery, and the wide expanse of the ocean displaying its surface, all combine to render this one of those extraordinary scenes of nature which rivet the attention with delight. The immediate foreground has a curious effect, being formed of the tops of trees; whilst the river lies below with slips of cultivated land scattered about its banks, and encompassed by the most beautiful woody scenery. Mr. W. then directs the tourist to follow the course of the river in an opposite direction towards Rathdrum, when the extent of the woods will almost induce him to imagine himself in the midst of one of those immense forests which extend over the wildest scenes of nature. Here too a rapid river, flowing from the mountains, rolls its shallow stream with wonderful rapidity along its rough and pebbly bed; whilst the opposite side of the glen is covered with wood to the very summit, behind which are lofty mountains that seem almost to touch the skies. Cross the river, pursue the road on the opposite side, and particularly notice a beautiful view of both sides of the glen in long perspective, with the river winding in the bottom of it, and the sea terminating the prospect. Visit Ballykin, seat of the Whaleys, erected on ancient Abbey. At Ballyrane, a Danish rath in high preservation. Carnew, 12 m. S.W., is a very strong situation, and was long the head-quarters of the sept of O'Toole, who preserved their independence for several centuries. It has a lofty square Castle with towers and battlements, still in tolerable preservation as far as regards the walls, which are of a blueish stone and of very good workmanship. The turrets are supported on consoles or brackets, and the whole has a commanding appearance, but is disfigured by the wretched cabins which crowd round the base of its venerable walls. Also ruins of old Ch. From hence the tourist may visit what remains of the ancient oak forest of Shillelagh. Cronebane, 7 m. W. from Arklow, possesses a mountain stream, a modern Pactolus, which separates the counties of Wicklow and Wexford. In the bed of this river large pieces of gold have several times been found; but when a regular search was instituted, the quantity taken did not pay the contingent expenses. Some lumps were also found in the Wicklow side of the mountain; and the tourist, if he picks up no specimens, may at least pick up health and amusement in his search. The waters of this place have been supposed to transmute iron into copper; but the fact is, that they precipitate the contained copper upon iron bars immersed therein; after which the precipitate is fluxed, and yields about one half pure copper. Examine the copper ore, which is found in one spot in a large vein at the depth of 390 feet; also the mode of procuring copper from the water, by its deposition on iron bars. Cronbane-house is a mansion highly deserving of notice, for its singular situation on a piece of land elevated, as Mr. Wakefield describes it, to nearly half the height of the mountain which forms the back-ground. The view from it is very fine; for two rivers, the Avon and the Avoca, wind round it in a semicircular form, exhibiting a broken outline, which gives them a romantic appearance, and shrouding the valley of Glendalough in their bosom. The home grounds and walks also possess many beauties. Kilcarra Castle, 3 m. from the sea, is the seat of the Earl of Carysfort, lately ornamented with towers and castellated front; in a retired spot on gentle declivity, with romantic glen. The new mail-coach road leading past this district affords many views of fine scenery. Shelton is the beautifully situated mansion of the Earl of Wicklow, at the base of a range of hills luxuriantly clothed in wood. Here are some of the finest beeches and chestnuts in Ireland. House ancient but modernized.

BALTINGLASS, 17 m. W. of Wicklow, is pleasantly seated on the Slaney, with a good trade and some manufactures. The Castle is in good repair, and now forms a comfortable mansion. Near it, on the banks of the Slaney, are the remains of the Abbey, consisting of a long Chapel totally in ruins, with a belfry tower, and a lofty plain E. window. Part of it is still roofed, and fitted up for divine service. Druidical remains in the vicinity; and the name is evidently derived from the worship of Baal, or Apollo; a circumstance that renders its antiquities highly interesting. Visit from hence a very curious Rath at Donard, on a hill called Slievh Guth or Church Mountain, about 6 m. distant. Here is a holy well to which numerous pilgrims repair. Stratford in the vicinity is a town of very recent erection, judiciously planned, but not successful as it ought to be. The cotton manufacture, however, flourishes.

BLESSINGTON, 18 m. N.W. of Wicklow, stands agreeably on the Liffey, on the verge of the county, with a handsome modern Ch.; and near it the ruins of the Marquis of Downshire's noble mansion destroyed in the rebellion. Ballymore Eustace has been already described in Kildare. Poll-a-phuca may be visited from this place, with a curious ruin of a Ch., and part of a Round Tower, and stone cross near it. The cascade at this place is considered by Miss Plumptre as much finer than the one at Powerscourt. It is formed by the Liffey amongst abrupt rocky scenery, well planted with shrubs, with shady walks, and prospect seats arranged by the taste and liberality of the late Earl of Milton, whose mansion at Russborough with a centre and wings extending 700 feet, of the Corinthian and Ionic orders, with a good collection of paintings, is worthy the tourist's notice.