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Chapter VI: Part 6

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Is an inland and not very extensive county; but is highly worth visiting: for though much of it consists of furze-clad mountains, yet these are finely contrasted by the diversified scenery on the banks of the Suir and Barrow, its eastern and western limits, and of the Nore which divides it nearly in two. In several parts of the county the mineralogist will find petrifactions or incrustations similar to those of Derbyshire; especially on the banks of a stream which flows through the glen of Ballyragget; and the Derbyshire farmers may here learn a lesson from the Irish agriculturists, who have discovered that these incrustations or depositions, which form with great rapidity, make an excellent manure. In many parts also are found calcareous petrifactions of pectunculites, echinites, cochlites, and some Cornua ammonis; and in several places, particularly in the barony of Galmoy, (as stated by Mr. Wakefield,) are tubiporites in such size and plenty as to be often seen in the fields and on dry stone walls. The antiquities are very numerous; Raths, Druidical Monuments, Castles, Abbeys, &c. are scattered in all parts, but very ruinous. The rivers are on a large scale, and the scenery pleasing. Bounded on the N.W. by Queen's County; N. by Carlow; E. by Wexford; S.W. by Tipperary.

CALLEN, 7 m. S.W. of Kilkenny, has ruins of three Castles, and old Gothic Ch., all destroyed by Cromwell. 1 m. see Eve Castle in ruins; also very large Rath, 40 feet high, 46 yards by 24.

CASTLE COMER, 8 m. N. of Kilkenny; see the celebrated Kilkenny coal-pits; beautiful mansion of Lady Ormond, the scene of several battles during the rebellion. Town partly burnt down, but since rebuilt.

CASTLE DURROW, 12 m. N.W. of Kilkenny, a town pleasantly situated on the banks of the Erkin, a small river, with a good inn. Near it the large old-fashioned mansion of Lord Ashbrooke. Roads good. Country round well cultivated, with some wood. Several vestiges of Danish Mounts. Visit Ballyspellan, 6 m. _S.W._, a celebrated Spa, chalybeate, with much to amuse the mineralogist; also Druidical remains. Fertagh has curious old Ch., and Round Tower 96 feet high. At Freshford see Irish inscription over Ch. door. Galmoy has numerous Danish Raths in its vicinity.

DUNMORE CAVE, 5 m. N.W. of Kilkenny, is one of the most remarkable in the island. Proceed to the Ch. of Mothe, a little to the southward of which, in a field on the slope of a gently rising hill, is the mouth of the cave, which opens into a large oval pit, about 40 or 50 yards wide, apparently formed by the sinking in of the surface, at the eastern end. To this there is a descent of 70 feet from the opposite quarter, over the rubbish of stone and clay; but the other sides of the pit are perpendicular. Rabbits often burrow near the entrance; and the first cavern, which is spacious, but of an irregular form, is generally a shelter for wild pigeons. To the roof of this cavern is an altitude of at least 50 feet; the floor slopes downwards, and towards the left the tourist arrives at a narrow passage which leads by a slippery ascent to the interior cavern. The difficulty of approach to this spot is amply repaid by the wonders within, where a great variety of stalagmitic concretions, added to the rugged forms of the rocks, exhibit a most singular and striking appearance. The tourist who wishes to explore all the wonders, must now proceed to the upper end, which becomes much narrower, but soon expands into a larger apartment. Beyond this there are other winding passages and other caves; but as neither Mr. Wakefield nor Mr. Walker seems to have explored them, it perhaps remains for some adventurous tourist to discover wonders equal to the caves of Trophonius or even Montesinos. Those who choose not to proceed further may consult Mr. Tighe's Survey of the County, where various other circumstances are stated. It is said that one of those passages leads to the other side of the hill, where day-light may be seen to enter through a narrow chink. In another of the inner caverns, imagination supposes the calcareous concretions to have assumed the form of an organ; in another, of a cross and altar. A stream of water passes through the cavern at a considerable distance from its entrance; and many skulls and other human bones have been found near to it, also in the more interior passages beyond it. Some of these skulls have been seen petrified, as it is called, or covered with the calcareous spar. The mineralogist may here pick up some specimens of an indurated clay, tinted by carbon, and called in the vicinity black chalk. Upon the whole, a visit to this place cannot fail to be highly gratifying to the tourist; though he will meet with some difficulties in exploring it, as the bottom is always damp and slippery, and rugged withal, from the stalactites formed by the dripping water on its very irregular flooring.

ENNISTEAGUE, or INNISTIOGUE, 12 m. S.E. of Kilkenny, has a handsome Bridge and some pleasing scenery.--See the enchanting and picturesque glen at Woodstock, near Glanmore, with ruins of Ch. and Castle, in whose winding recesses nature and art have done every thing possible to embellish the scene.

GOWRAN, 8 m. E. of Kilkenny, stands on a pleasant stream.--See Ch. in ruins, a fine specimen of the middle Gothic. In the cemetery are the bones of the officers of the Castle garrison shot by order of Cromwell for their gallant defence. See Low Grange, 1 m., modern mansion erected on ruins of ancient Castle. Visit Graignemanach lying in a sequestered vale on the romantic banks of the Barrow, which claims the tourist's notice by majestic ruins of an extensive Abbey, of which the architecture and sculpture excite our admiration even in its present dilapidated state. It is built in the form of a cross; and its outline pretty entire. The arch leading into the choir, rising to the roof with double mouldings and supported by clustered pillars, is a very fine specimen of the Gothic. It is impossible to view the two plates of it given by Grose, without wishing to explore its venerable arcades. It was a mitred Abbey, and founded in 1212; but particularly remarkable for having been the depository of a "Doomsday Book," or Survey of the Island, begun by Henry II., and finished under the orders of John.

KILKENNY, the county town, is 57 m. S.W. of Dublin.--The Castle is an interesting object to the inquisitive tourist, originally begun in the 12th century by Strongbow, and completed by William de Mareschal, Earl of Pembroke. Great part of the ancient edifice has survived the various convulsions of civil anarchy, now repaired and beautified so as to form a conspicuous ornament to the city, on a rising ground, with a rapid descent to the Nore, and on the other sides fortified by walls and towers, the Gothic grandeur of whose remains is disfigured in the eye of taste, by a lofty marble entrance gate of the Corinthian order. Much fine tapestry, in fresh and lively colours, representing the story of Decius, will interest the visitor on entering the breakfast-room. See also the alcove or presence-chamber, hung with tapestry, with a chair of state raised a step above the floor, a remnant of ancient pomp, now superseded by the simpler habits of modern nobility. The other parts of the mansion have also been well fitted up for the fashionable conviviality which has recently graced its walls. The ball-room or gallery is of great length, and contains pictures, many of which are highly interesting, being the portraits of the gay court of the 2d Charles. See also the Countess's Dressing-room in an octagon tower; the Chapel, and, if permitted, the Evidence Room, which contains an immense mass of valuable MSS., materials partially gleaned by Carte, the historian. Near the city is the Cathedral Ch. of St. Canice, of considerable antiquity, being, in its finished state, of the reign of Edward the 1st, and still in very good preservation. It stands on an eminence, with a descent on all sides; and the Ch. yard is entered, from the town, by a flight of marble steps. The cemetery being planted with trees has a romantic effect, and presents a very extensive prospect over a rich vicinage. In the interior the seats of the choir and gallery are of oak varnished, and the whole plain, but remarkably neat. The compass ceiling is adorned with fretwork, and has many modillions, and in the centre a group of foliage, festoons, and cherubim. In the nave and aisles are many beautiful sepulchral Monuments. It is the Cathedral of the see of Ossory; and close to it is a very curious Round Tower. The Dominican or Black Abbey, an extensive ruin, with the elegant ramifications of some of its Gothic windows in pretty good preservation, stands low, and is surrounded by squalid huts, which disfigure its outside and take off much of the sombre effect of its venerable walls. The windows, especially the east one, are light and elegant: the arcades are open and airy; and the towers spring up with an airy elegance that seizes at once upon the traveller's attention. The Abbey of St. Francis, with its square Tower springing from a lofty Gothic arch, is worthy the tourist's notice, though much disfigured in its interior by the squalid cabins of poverty and idleness, and by part of its precincts being turned into a horse barrack. The great altar is a marble slab of amazing size; but perhaps the most remarkable circumstance about the place is the legendary story of a sainted lady who built part of the choir, and whose extreme chastity induced her to descend a virgin into the grave at the age of 70, although she had been married young and to several husbands. The ruins of St. John's Abbey, part of which has been converted into a foot barrack, present some very fine specimens of the light Gothic in the windows and corridors. Founded in 1220. See the marble mill, about 2 m. from the city, and on the left bank of the river; a very ingenious invention, alike admirable for the simplicity of its construction, and for the power which it exerts. The saws are made of soft iron, and will last but a week; each cutting about ten or twelve inches per day, equal to the labour of two men. Not far from these mills are various marble quarries; but the most curious mineralogical specimen is called Sidero-calcite, so plentiful as to have been used for repairing the roads. Unlike the other marbles, it cannot be burnt into lime; but it contains a quantity of iron and manganese; and as it is brittle and friable, it has been proposed as an ingredient in mortar or cement used for building under water. Visit Clogmanta Hill, about 10 m. N.W., where are some extensive Druidical remains, with a magnificent prospect from the summit. Rathbeath, 5 m. N., is supposed to be the ancient Argat-Ross, where in early times a silver mine existed, whence the first Irish coinage took place.

KNOCTOPHER, 9 m. S. of Kilkenny, stands pleasantly on the banks of a rivulet which flows into the Nore. Bessborough, 8 m. S., is a handsome seat of the Earl of that name, in a park of 500 acres; the house 100 feet in length, with elegant hall, saloon and parlour containing numerous fine paintings, of the Italian and Flemish schools. See various Cromlechs and other Druidical remains at Garryduff-hill, especially Leibe ne Cuhn, or the Priest's Grave, with stone cells. Grandison or Grany Castle, though apparently not older than the reign of Henry VIII., being in the style of domestic fortification of that period, and now almost a total ruin, is yet far from being an uninteresting object, not only in picturesque effect with its numerous towers, but as affording a good idea of the insecure state of society during that unsettled period. It has three Round Towers on the Suir, and two Courts; a large square Tower, connected to a great hall, and another Round Tower form the other side; in the inside of the arch of a window in the hall is a grotesque angel holding a shield with the arms of Butler. It was built by Margaret, the great Countess of Ormonde, at a period when ladies of high birth seem to have been proud of exercising the masculine authority of the other sex. Kells, a pleasant little place, 3 m. N., has some pretty river scenery. At Kilbeacon see Earl's Rath, a very large fort, oblong, and surrounded by a deep fosse, formerly filled with water, with a bank about 20 feet high; in the area are remains of buildings. Kilmogue has a curious Cromlech, the upper stone, 45 feet in circumference, supported by several others, nine in number. The stones are of siliceous breccia, and it is still known by the name of Lachan Scahl, the Great Altar Stone. At Mullinavat, the mineralogist will find considerable amusement in his researches. At Tory-hill, to the S.E. about 7 m., and called in the Irish, Sleigh Grian, or the Hill of the Sun, see a circular space on the very summit, covered with stones, in which is one large squared stone, 5 feet long, resting on three others, with an inscription in the ancient Pelasgic characters, BELIDIVOSE, supposed to be a dedication to the Deity, under the name of Bel, Baal, or Apollo.

THOMASTOWN, 9 m. S.E. from Kilkenny, deserves the notice of the antiquary from its being one of the most ancient towns in the island, being founded by one of the chiefs of Henry II. in his first expedition. From this Thomas Fitz-Anthony it derives its nomenclature. Its principal remnant of antiquity is the Abbey, of which there are some considerable fragments; one end being fitted up as the parish Ch. There is a venerable Tower at one angle; and the Gothic arcades afford some fine specimens of the lancet arch, evidently of a date posterior to the foundation of the town itself. In the ruinous part of the edifice, the tourist will notice a large sepulchral stone, which is reported in traditionary legends to cover the body of a giant. Its trade is considerably increasing in consequence of the river navigation. The river Argula falls into the Nore, close by Ballyduff, where are ruins of an old Castle. About 2 m. above it, on the banks of the Nore, are the ruins of the Abbey of Jerpoint, a Cistertian establishment as early as 1180. Its remains, which are extensive, more resemble a fortress than an Abbey; and it has a very fine light and airy Tower with four pinnacles. The picturesque tourist when at this place must not omit a most romantic walk to a secluded dell and glen at Kilfaun, about 1-1/2 m. in length, well described by Wakefield, who notices an elegant cottage placed in a situation truly delightful; opposite to which is a waterfall, the rivulet running through the lawn and flower garden, having on both sides rocks ornamented with large evergreens, the whole scene exhibiting numerous beauties both of art and nature. Near Thomastown is Mount Juliet, the seat of the Earl of Carrick, which, though in a neglected state as described by Mr. Wakefield, is deserving of notice; the house being built in the old fashioned style of architecture, and standing immediately on the banks of the romantic and rapid Nore.

MINERALOGY.

Granite in various parts of the county; particularly on Brandon mountain near Gowran, with siliceous schistus, containing mica, crystals, and jasper. Pyrites and quartz near Inistioge. Black slate and hone-stones near Castle Durrow. Kilkenny coal near Castle Comer. Some pieces of very fine compact jasper, of various sizes, may be found on the borders of the granite district in the S. The specimens already discovered were of a deep red colour, for the most part obtusely angular, and squarer at one end than the other: they were imbedded in yellow clay, a few feet below the surface.

The mineralogist may feel gratified by the examination of a very fine granite quarry in the vicinity of Gowran. It is a beautiful stone of a light yellow cast, fine grained and compact, and may be taken up in blocks of any required size.

On the top of Drumdowny Hill, the extremity of an extensive range, there is a dry stone wall inclosing a space of about 300 acres, appropriated for quarrying a species of breccia, or pudding stone, which is cut into mill-stones.

BOTANY.

_Borago officinalis_, Burrage:--on the ruins of Grandison Castle.

_Erica cinerea_, Female Heath; with white flowers:--on moist sides of hills.

_Humulus Lupulus_, or Hops:--indigenous evidently in many parts of the county.

_Iris Pseud-acorus_, Common Flags or Saggons:--in wet grounds.

_Lichen_, Common Mosses; with all the varieties of _caninus_, _physodes_, _farinaceus_, &c.:--in many places.

_Lonicera_ var. _fol. quercinis_, Oak-leaved Honey-Suckle:--in the S.E. district, in meadows.

_Lycopodium alpinum_, Alpine Moss:--on the hills on western side of the Nore.

_Lycopodium clavatum_, Club Moss:--near Inistiogue.

_Lycopodium Selago_, Ladies' Shamrock:--in moist grounds on the banks of the Nore.

_Rumex Acetosa_, Sorrel:--in moist meadows.

_Rumex acutus_, Sharp Dock:--on clayey soils in the north.

_Verbena officinalis_, Vervain:--in pastures, and on road sides.

KING'S COUNTY.

This is one of the small Irish inland counties, long and narrow, bordering in some degree upon the Shannon, and traversed by the canal intended to unite the Irish Channel with that river.--It is flat and often boggy, especially in that district called the Bog of Allen; with the exception of the range of hills that separate it from the Queen's County, called the Sliebh-bloom mountains. Bounded N. by East and West Meath; E. by Kildare and Queen's County; S. by Tipperary; and W. by Galway and the River Shannon.

BALLYBOY, 17 m. S.W. of Philipstown, is nearly central to the county, on the Silver river, and but an inconsiderable village, with ruins of several Castles in its vicinity. See Anna lake and remains of Killinany Castle. At Ballycumber, ruins of a Castle, and a Ch. At Ferbane, beyond the Brosna, 10 m. N.W., see ruins of Cool and Killcolgan Castles; and near it are the ruins of Clonmacnoise, celebrated as the cemetery of numerous chieftains, priests, &c. These splendid remains are seated in the midst of delightful scenery, on a rising ground on the banks of the Shannon. See an ornamented Cross, fifteen feet high, standing near Teanpull Mac Diermid. It is in a rich style of sculpture, exhibiting the duties of Christianity, and some legendary stories of St. Kiaran, (A.D. 549,) the patron saint. The doors of the Ch. of Teanpull are also deserving of notice for their statues and ornamented architecture. Here are also two stone Crosses, and another nearer to Ferban, with ruins of several Castles. The episcopal palace is also in ruins, about 1/2 m. distant, besides some remains of a Nunnery. Many inscriptions in the Irish and the learned languages may be traced in the sepulchral Monuments; and the whole scene assimilates well with the wild and romantic landscape that surrounds it. Frankford is a small town, 3 m. N.W., with a Charter School, and some remains of a roofless Chapel.

BANAGHER, 30 m. S.W. of Philipstown, is seated on the E. bank of the Shannon, with pleasing river scenery and two bridges: a well built town, and good station for the tourist. Cloghan, 4 m., a village with a most comfortable inn, rendering it a convenient resting-place for the pedestrian artist wishing to examine the surrounding wild landscape. The statist may also derive considerable pleasure from investigating the progress of civilization and improvement resulting from the judicious planting and cultivation across the river Silver, by the Rev. Dr. Mullock, at Bellair, and from the erection of a village well planned, with neatness, cleanliness, and a good police as its main objects, in concert with the introduction of the Linen Manufacture.

BIRR, 28 m. S.W. of Philipstown, and seated on a river of the same name, was formerly called PARSONSTOWN, from the family to which it belongs, who have a castellated mansion in the outskirts. The town itself is new, and well built, of a good size, and the streets regularly laid out; with a square, called Duke's Square, from a statue of the Duke of Cumberland erected on a lofty stone column. The tourist will find a good inn at the King's Arms. See the fine old and venerable Castle, the mansion of the Earl of Ross, which stood a siege by General Sarsfield in the war of the Revolution. Excellent Market-house, and Infantry Barrack. Canger, to the S.E., towards the Sliebh-bloom mountains, manifests how much may be done in Ireland by the exertions of an individual. Here, by the judicious care of Mr. Atkinson, aided indeed by the neighbouring gentlemen, much has recently been accomplished; whiskey is giving place to malt liquor; the people quiet and loyal, though illiterate; and other improvements daily taking place. Excellent houses are also building for the tenants; labouring wages have been generously raised; the children constantly employed, and industry and content going hand in hand. Agricultural improvements and experiments are here practised, to the manifest instruction of the hitherto neglected farmer. At Drummoyle, 4 m., see the ancient Castle of Leap, with the incongruous addition of two modern wings to its Gothic centre. In the ancient part the walls are 14 feet thick. Dunkerron has a comfortable inn for those who wish to explore the southern angle of the county, and the Sliebh-bloom mountains. Near it see Franfort, the antique mansion of Mr. Rolleston, regularly defended with fortifications, a fosse and draw-bridge; also a modern, elegant, and spacious mansion house at Greenhills. In the Sliebh-bloom mountains, see a large pyramid of white stones, the emblem of the Sun-fire amongst the Celtic nations, from whence arose their ancient name of Bladhma, or Beal-di-mai, the necromancy of Baal's-day. They extend through a range of 15 miles, through which there is but one steep, narrow, and craggy pass, called Glandine Gap, not more than five feet wide, called by some the Irish Thermopylæ, and leading into Tipperary. At Rathmore, or the Great Rock, examine that extensive work once fortified by numerous towers, but now yielding to the hand of peaceful improvement. Shinrone has a handsome Ch., and Market-house, with a good Classical School.

EDENDERRY, 8 m. N.E. of Philipstown, a pleasant village inhabited by Quakers.--See ruins of Castle on a hill; and near it, spacious ruins of a Monastery.

PHILIPSTOWN, 39 m. S.W. from Dublin, took its name from Philip of Spain, being in a new shire incorporated by Queen Mary.--See ruins of Castle on bank of the river, with the spacious Gaol,--this, though a sorry village, being the county town. Near it see Croghan-hill, conical, and beautifully clothed with the most luxuriant verdure to its top; with ruins of Ch. at the base, and ancient cemetery at the summit.

PORTARLINGTON, 10 m. S.E., stands partly in this county, partly in Queen's, being divided by the river Barrow.

TULLAMORE, 7 m. S.W. of Philipstown, is divided in two by the river Clodagh. Here the tourist will find a good inn and accommodations at the Charleville Arms near the bridge. The town was burnt down a few years ago, but is reviving rapidly, with a busy and flourishing aspect, under the auspices of Lord Charleville; intersected by a canal leading from Dublin to the Shannon, on which a covered boat is fitted for passengers. A short distance, and on the banks of the canal, see a small square fortress in good preservation. See Charleville Castle, a magnificent mansion in all respects, erected in the Gothic style, but yet wanting the hoary hand of time to darken its castellated battlements, being built of limestone, which does not yet harmonize with the foliage of a flat park, or with the artificial piece of water formed in its front. The scenery in the demesne is very fine, with cascades, grottoes, rustic bridges, &c., &c. Clara, 10 m. W., is a neat handsome village, surrounded by the Linen Manufactory. Geashill, 3 m. S.E., has ruins of an ancient lofty Castle, the residence of the O'Molloys, which, defended by a lady, made a strong resistance against Cromwell. Near it a celebrated spring, and ruins of an Abbey.

MINERALS.

The Sliebh-bloom mountains offer a fine field of research to the mineralogical and geological tourist; being at present virgin ground. In other parts may be found, manganese, iron ore, ochres, with limestone and potter's clay.

BOTANY.

_Hypnum crispum_, Curled Hypnum:--in woods, heaths, and rocks.

_Melittis Melissophyllum_, Bastard Balm:--in woods and hedges.

_Pinus sylvestris_, Scotch Fir:--in woods in various parts.

_Pyrola rotundifolia_, Wintergreen:--in a bog near Dunkerrin.

LEITRIM

Borders on the sea at its N.W. extremity; almost entirely covered by groups of mountains, not completely barren, affording sufficient herbage for the feeding of cattle; whilst the vales between them are occupied by numerous lakes giving rise to equally numerous rivers. The picturesque tourist will here behold nature in her boldest features; and the antiquary may gratify himself with the examination of numerous ancient Castles in situations of the wildest and most savage grandeur. The lakes are numerous. Bounded on the S. by Roscommon and Sligo; W. by Bay of Donnegal; N. by Donnegal and Fermanagh; E. and S.E. by Cavan and Longford.

CARRICK-ON-SHANNON, or CARRICK DRUMRUSK, 78 m. from Dublin, is the largest and shire town of the county.--See the New Prison. Hall observes that many of the tombstones in the Ch.-yard are of a musical nature; for if struck with the knuckles, they ring like a dull metal.

FENAUGHT, 8 m. N.E. of Carrick, is a wild open district, presenting little worth notice except the venerable ruins of what was once a celebrated Divinity School of the Culdees. It is picturesquely overrun with ivy. The E. window is considered as a specimen of very curious workmanship; and the tourist must not fail to notice a line drawn across the middle of the eastern gable, with a figure on the N. side, about 12 feet from the ground, said to represent an evil spirit who was very troublesome to St. Cullin, the founder, during the period of its erection, this black gentleman acting the part of Penelope towards her suitors, and pulling down in the night what the Saint and his holy comrades had set up during the day. To check the troublesome intruder, the Saint blessed some ropes and drew them one night along the top of the building, when the Spirit, like a fly in a spider's nest, got entangled in the ropes, and being unable to extricate himself, was caught by the monks in the morning, who gave him some sound correction for his offence, but set him loose again upon the public, as is too often done by our modern police, and pretty much, perhaps, for similar purposes. 1/2 m. dist. two Druidical Altars.

JAMESTOWN, 2 m. S.E. of Carrick, a small town with ruins of a Castle.--Visit Carrigallan and Clongorrin Castles, about 12 m. E. Lough Bofin lies to the S. About 1 m. from Rusky, is a view which Mr. Hall considers one of the finest in Ireland, looking into Roscommon across Lough Bofin or Achary.

LEITRIM, 3 m. N. of Carrick, is a small town, or village, but gives name to the county.--Visit Lough Allen, encompassed by high mountains and more than 30 m. in circuit, presenting a most picturesque landscape. It is the first depository for the river Shannon, which rises a few miles distant on Quilca hill in Fermanagh, and tumbles down the mountains in tremendous cascades. On Inse Island see ruins of a Ch., a place of high religious estimation as a cemetery.

MANOR HAMILTON, 22 m. N.W. of Carrick, deserves notice from its romantic situation among mountains; a small neat village forming a good station to visit the western district. Here is a Castle built in the reign of Elizabeth. 3 m. N.W. a grotesque Castle of the O'Rourkes. Dromahaire is a small town seated on the river Boonid, worth visiting on account of its Abbey, (1508) which presents a pleasing specimen of Gothic ruins. Visit the romantic and picturesque Lough Gill; also Lough Melve, ornamented with wooded islands and venerable ruins. At Lurganbuy, the beautiful residence of Mr. Wynne.

MINERALS.

The mineralogical tourist must visit the red stone river, with its various coloured clays. The mountains present ores of lead, iron and copper, particularly near Lough Allen; also coal, and pipe clay.

BOTANY.

_Cyclamen europæum_, Sowbread:--in various places.

_T. Fielding fc._

_Eagles Nest & Echo, Lake of Killarney._]

LIMERICK

Is amongst the largest of the Irish counties, extending along the southern bank of the Shannon, and therefore, though not maritime, yet enjoying, or capable of enjoying, all the benefits of maritime intercourse. Those who are merely in search of the wild and romantic, may perhaps be disappointed by its scenery, as it cannot be esteemed mountainous, except in the W.; yet being diversified by small hills, it might soon become highly picturesque if ornamental cultivation were once to extend over its rich pasture land, having no inclosures but rude earthen banks almost entirely bare of foliage, and only diversified by the squalid cabins of wretched cotters. On the borders of Kerry there is a fine amphitheatre of low but steep hills stretching in a curve from Drumcollogher to Loghil. These hills give rise to the river Maigue, and several smaller fertilizing streams, which traverse the county and fall into the Shannon. The numerous Castles crowded together in this county strongly mark its ancient feudal state. Bounded N. by the Shannon; N.E. by Tipperary; S. by Cork; W. by Kerry.

ADARE is an ancient town, 8 m. S.W. from Limerick, on the banks of the river Maigue, over which there is a good bridge, close to the ruins of the Abbey, whose lofty tower springs from a very curious arch, constructed with four diagonal ogives meeting in the centre. The ruins are yet in pretty good preservation, with beautiful Gothic cloisters, ornamented with escutcheons of arms. The edifice, being of limestone, has a curious yet venerable appearance. See the picturesque ruins of an ancient Castle, once the residence of the potent Earls of Desmond, and often the scene of hostile conflict during the early times, being often besieged and taken by the contending parties. There are vestiges of several other religious edifices; but the town itself is little more than a cluster of cabins, through which the tourist passes in his way to Killarney. In the vicinity is the demesne of the Quin family, beautifully diversified with wood and water, whilst its lawns, sloping down to both banks of the river, offer fine views of the ivied Abbeys nodding their venerable heads over the placid stream. Here too the tourist may wander delighted in silent contemplation through the long-drawn vistas of aged trees, and through shady walks, where once trod the saints and heroes of ancient times. See Mount Shannon, seat of Lord Clare, consisting of a large pile of building ornamented with plantations, near which are seen the environs of Limerick studded with neat houses belonging to its wealthy merchants.

ASKEYTON, 16 m. W. of Limerick, pleasantly situated on the Deel at its confluence with the Shannon; once fortified, now decayed. See the Castle, or rather its ruins; for of this ancient seat of the old Earls of Desmond, little more than one side wall remains. It stood on an island formed by the Deel river. The Hall, once the seat of hospitality, stands upon arches which are still pretty entire, but is now converted into a ball alley. Cross the river, and at the distance of a few hundred yards see the ruins of the Abbey, of which the cloisters still remain almost entire. These are described by Mr. Wakefield as extremely beautiful, being built of sculptured marble; and are perfect, with the exception of two pillars carried away some years ago by some person who considered them as holy reliques. See Bally England Castle ruins; also Ballymort, the beautiful seat of Mr. Massey; Courtferry Castle in ruins; Court, seat of Sir H. Harstonge. Glynn, 8 m. W., near Tarbert in Kerry, is a pleasant little village, seated at the mouth of a small romantic bay, surrounded by hills and high cliffs; with ruins of ancient Castle of the Knights of Glynn. The village of New Bridge, near it, is interesting as a colony of Palatines from Germany settled here by Lord Southwell about a century ago. Mr. Young speaks highly of their industry and cleanliness as superior to their Irish neighbours. Near it, the seat of Mr. Bateman. Rathkeal is a poor decayed village. See ruins of ancient Priory, with curious figure of a monk in a window, painted like Tom of Coventry. Extensive Barracks. Castle in ruins. 2 m. Shanagolden village in the vicinity affords shelter and refreshment. See ruins of Loughgill Castle, on a pleasant stream.

KILMALLOCK, 15 m. S. of Limerick, has by some been styled the "Balbec of Ireland," and Sir R. C. Hoare recommends it as an object highly worthy of the attention both of the artist and antiquary; but he adds, that as the former will find more than a day's work for his pencil, he must take up his abode either at Bruff or Charleville, in Cork, as the best accommodations at Kilmallock are but indifferent. Sir R. also observes that the first view of this place is singularly striking; with the appearance of a town suddenly deserted and left in ruins. Enter by the side of a lofty turreted gateway, leading into the principal street formed by a double line of houses excellently well built of stone, with a great uniformity in their style of architecture, evidently of the time of Elizabeth; but many of these are completely gutted, with nothing but the outward walls remaining. Once there was a strong wall with five gates; but only two remain. Parish Ch. in ruins, except the Choir; of Gothic architecture. See Monuments of the Vernons. Round Tower, and ruins of Friary. Visit St. Patrick's Well in the vicinity. Bruff is little better than a most miserable street of thatched hovels, with an indifferent inn, but affording post-horses to the traveller. Near it are a ruined Castle and Ch. The country flat and uninteresting. See Galbally village, 9 m. E., where are fragments of an extensive Monastery of Grey Friars, once splendid and magnificent in religious pomp. Kilfinnan, 6 m. S.E., has a Charter School, and ruins of an old Castle near it.

LIMERICK, 94 m. S.W. of Dublin, is seated on the Shannon. The Cathedral presents no very striking features either in architectural or monumental antiquities; the only piece of good old sculpture being the fragment of a monument in the S. aisle to the memory of the Galway family. On the N. side of the altar, the monument of the Thomonds. See the fine view of the Shannon and surrounding country from the ch. tower. Of the Castle, there are considerable remains on the banks of the river; but so blended with modern houses, as to produce no good effect or subject for the pencil. Public Edifices, Assembly Rooms, and Theatre, elegant and commodious. Improvements rapidly proceeding. Some remains of a Friary in Tan-yard, and Barracks. Linen and Paper Manufactories. See Thomond's bridge; Salmon-leap, 2 m. dist.; Marble and blue limestone Quarries; Glove Manufactory; handsome Custom-house; and Nunnery. Good hotel accommodations. See in vicinity, at Buan-rath, ancient monastic ruins. Cahirconlish has several castellated ruins. Carrigogunnel, 4 m. dist., stands proudly on a steep rock: its majestic ruins manifest the dignity of the ancient Earls of Desmond. Castle Connel, 6 m. E., boasts all the delights of a fashionable watering-place, celebrated for its medicinal water, and in the summer months much frequented by people from every part of the country. Mr. Wakefield describes it as a most beautiful village, deriving its name from an ancient Castle built on a rock. Connigar, 4 m. S., a delightful residence of the Bishop. Hospital has ruins of a Castle of those Knights, and of ancient Ch. Lough Gur, near Six-Mile-Bridge, deserves a visit for its romantic scenery, and the various Druidical monuments in its vicinity. On an island, ruins of Castle; also remains of Black Castle. See Cromlech and Rath on Knockfennel, with caves, and Round Tower on the Raven's Rock. Mungret has ruins of ancient Ch. and Abbey. Monister in Nenagh has ruins of magnificent Abbey; with Little Friars-town; and Balinaguard, with monuments of the Croker family.

NEWCASTLE, 18 m. S.W. of Limerick, may serve as a station for those who wish to traverse the wild scenery of the S.W.--Market House and Assembly Rooms; elegant modern Ch. Wild, mountainous and desolate scenery leads to Abbeyfeile, a pleasant village, 9 m. W. See ruins of Port Castle.

PALLIS, a small village in the S.E., 12 m. from Limerick, has a fine Ch. See ruins of Kilduff Castle.

MINERALS.

Nothing remarkable.

BOTANY.

_Euphorbia hiberna_, Knotty-rooted Spurge:--near Anakirk.

_Helleborus fœtidus_, Great Bastard Black Hellebore, Bear's-foot or Tetter-wort:--on Slieve Baghtine and near Drumcallagher.

_Teucrium Scordium_, Water Germander:--in marshy places: on the banks of the Shannon near Limerick.

LONDONDERRY.

The mountainous scenery of this county is described by Mr. Wakefield as presenting neither roughness nor green herbage, but exhibiting something between both, which may be called uncultivated vegetation; while the lower parts are inundated with water, and in some places have been converted into bogs. The arable land is seldom divided to any extent, and the scenery is little enriched by the seats of the gentry or the elegancies of cultivation. Limestone, both white and blue, is frequent in this county; and the latter is often used in building, being not unlike marble: yet it is sometimes found in so friable a state as to be capable of being spread as manure without burning. In a limestone rock on the coast, there is a remarkable cavern, called the Robbers' Cave, which contains apartments where a large banditti some years ago concealed themselves, as a hoard for their booty, and were extremely troublesome to the vicinage. There are numerous rivers. Bounded S. by Tyrone, W. by Donnegal, E. by Lough-Neagh, and N. by the ocean.

COLERAINE, 23 m. N.E. of Derry, stands 4 m. from the sea, on the Bann; a general station for the Giants' Causeway, particularly when Bush Mills is crowded. See the Falls of the Bann, or Salmon Leap, well described in Dr. Drummond's poem on the Giants' Causeway. Near the bridge a small rath or mount like those on Salisbury Plain. Famous for fine linens. Extensive prospects from surrounding hills. Ch. pleasantly situated. Old-fashioned house and grounds of Jackson Hall; at Down Hill, seat of Sir Hervey Bruce, some good paintings; waterfall near the entrance of the grounds.

LONDONDERRY is a city 115 m. N.W. of Dublin, about 1 m. in circumference, which the tourist will visit with interest, on account of its well known siege in 1690. Walk round the walls; see the Cathedral, of some antiquity (1633), the wooden bridge, 1/3 of a m. in length over a branch of Loch-Foyle, serving also as an aqueduct. Town-hall and Market-house; the Episcopal Palace, with the gardens outside of the walls, from whence there is a fine prospect. The view of the city from the bridge, with the shipping, and backed by lofty hills, is worthy of notice. The view of this town at the distance of a mile or two is most picturesque, seeming to be built on an island of bold land rising from the river, and backed by extensive hills. The philanthropic tourist will not fail to visit the Infirmary, a handsome spacious edifice under good regulations; also the Repository for Work, and the Institution for small loans to the industrious poor. (See Curwen, vol. i. p. 232, for rules and regulations.) Good accommodations and post-horses. At 3 m. N., see Aileach Neid, an ancient rath or castle of the O'Neils, constructed like the Danish forts, and destroyed by Murtogh O'Brian in 1101. Clady is a small village pleasantly seated on the river Faughan, with ruins of O'Cane's Castle near it. Lough Foyle is a fine expanse of water, 14 m. by 8, and forms a most commodious harbour.

KILREA, 26 m. N.E. of Derry, on the borders of Antrim; stands pleasantly on the river Bann, and is a very cheerful little town, surrounded by opulence and industry from the linen manufacture.

MAGHERAFELT, 30 m. E. of Derry, is a very neat village, and forms a good station for the eastern district, and for Lough-Neagh. Maghera is a small village, in an agreeable neighbourhood. The tract of land on this side of Carntogher Mountains, called the Braeface, exhibits some delightful scenery. The cottages are built in tufts of hawthorn-trees, the humble but happy abodes of an industrious peasantry; deep glens, lined with bushes and shrubs, winding from the higher parts of the mountain, mark the progress of the winter floods, and terminate in the Moyola which runs below. The Danish forts or raths are numerous; and there is some curious antique sculpture over the church door.

NEWTON LIMAVADDY, 12 m. N.E. of Derry, is a neat town of one street, seated in a woody glen watered by a stream, and surrounded by beautiful scenery. Between it and Derry are some very fine views of the latter city; the Lough appearing to great advantage, bounded by a bold and precipitous hill towards the north; also a seat of the Beresford family, with a fine approach through a wood of stately oaks, and a rich underwood of holly. Accommodations and roads good. At Dungiven, 6 m. S.E., see the quarry of Alknever, which produces very fine sandstone of the best quality and of a tawny colour, not unlike Portland stone. Extensive mountain scenery, and pleasing landscapes on the river Roe. See the Old Castle, ancient Ch. and Monuments; numerous Raths, and curious Cave 2 m. distant. Magilligan is famous for its rabbit-warren.

MINERALS.

Iron ore:--near Castle Dawson. Small veins of lead and copper. Crystals found near Dungiven.

BOTANY.

_Agrostis stolonifera_, Fiorin-grass, called in England Joint-grass.

_Anthoxanthum odoratum_, Sweet Vernal-grass:--in woods and coarse grounds.

_Alopecurus geniculatus_, Flute Foxtail:--in wet grounds.

_Arundo arenaria_, Sea Reed:--on the shores.

_Alchemilla vulgaris_, Ladies Mantle:--a plant of great elegance in high pastures.

_Achillea Millefolium_, Yarrow:--in pastures on the banks of the Fahan.

_Angelica sylvestris_, Wild Angelica:--an aromatic plant in woods and moist hedges.

_Arenaria peploides_, Sea Sand-wort:--an elegant plant, abounding on the coast.

_Borago officinalis_, Borage:--on the banks of the Bann.

_Caltha palustris_, Marsh-Marigold:--in most parts.

_Campanula rotundifolia_, Round-leaved Bell-flower:--on the barren pastures near Downhill.

_Convolvulus Sepium_, Great Bind-weed:--among plantations near the sea.

_Digitalis purpurea_, Foxglove:--very common near ditches.

_Elymus arenarius_, Sea Lime-grass:--on sandy grounds near the sea.

_Epilobium angustifolium_, Rosebay Willow-herb:--in hedges.

_Erica cinerea_, Fine Heath:--on moors and wastes.

_Erica multiflora_, Fir-leaved Heath:--on Magilligan Mountains.

_Festuca elatior_, Tall Fescue-grass:--in the woods of Aghanloo.

_Galium palustre_, White Ladies Bed-straw:--in moist meadows, and on the banks of the Bann.

_Hypericum pulchrum_, Upright St. John's Wort:--an elegant plant in woods and glens.

_Iris Pseud-acorus_, Common Flag:--a beautiful species in boggy meadows.

_Leontodon Taraxacum_, Dandelion:--in pastures.

_Lychnis Flos Cuculi_, Meadow Pink:--in low meadows at Aghanloo.

_Melica uniflora_, Single Wood-grass:--in wet wooded grounds.

_Melampyrum sylvaticum_, Wood Cow-weed:--in oak-woods.

_Nymphæa alba_, White Water-lily:--in lakes and rivers.

_Orchis Satyrion_, Orchis:--all the varieties to be found in high grounds and wet meadows.

_Parnassia palustris_, Grass of Parnassus:--in wet grounds.

_Potentilla anserina_, Silver Weed:--in dry pastures and meadows.

_Ranunculus Flammula_, Crowfoot:--in wet meadows.

_Saponaria officinalis_, Soapwort:--in dry ditches, but rare.

_Tanacetum vulgare_, Yellow Tansey:--in the river Roe, and sandy ditches in Drumbane.

_Trifolium alpestre_, Long-leaved Trefoil:--amongst the romantic fallen rocks of Bengevenogh.

_Veronica maritima_, Sea Speedwell:--several varieties on the coast.

_Viola odorata_, Sweet Violet:--under hedges, bushes, &c.

_Zostera marina_, Grass-wrack:--on shallow beaches.

LONGFORD.

One of the smallest counties. A great proportion is a rude bog, denuded of timber, and with scarcely a seat of any consequence to attract the notice of the traveller: yet it is an object of attention to the statist, as he will here perceive the rapid effects of industry from the linen manufacture. Bounded W. by Roscommon, N. by Leitrim and Cavan, E. and S. by Westmeath.

ARDAGH, 5 m. S.E. of Longford.--See some slight remains of the Cathedral. Abbey Shrule has some ruins of a Convent of Cistertians, near which Tenelick, the handsome house and extensive demesne of the late Lord Annaly.

BALLIMAHON, 9 m. S. of Longford, is a small but neat town, standing on the river Inny, in the southern district, surrounded by some pleasing scenery.

COLEHILL, 10 m. S.E. of Longford, may be taken as the station for visiting Abbey Shrule, &c. Near it see Tashiny Church, and ruins of an old Castle.

EDGWORTHSTOWN, 6 m. S.E. of Longford, is a considerable and improving village, enlivened by the residence of the literary family from whom it takes its name. Those who have derived pleasure from the productions of Miss Edgworth, may receive much amusement from particulars respecting that family in _Hall's Tour_, vol. ii. p. 15 et seq. See handsome Ch., and spire of cast iron. In the vicinity are extensive slate quarries. See _Curwen_, ii. 212.

GRANARD, 9 m. E. of Longford, is a neat town, consisting of one handsome street about half a mile long, at the head of which stands the Castle, built on a singular hill rising to a considerable height. It is called the Moat of Granard, and by some supposed to be artificial. The prospect from the summit extends into several counties. Near it ruins of Larna Abbey, founded by St. Patrick. The country round, bleak and mountainous. Lough-Shelon, in the vicinity, is 7 miles in length, and 4 broad. The artist may here select some wild scenery. In Lough-Garon; see some remains of an Abbey on an island; and another once noble edifice in another island--the Abbey of All Saints; and in the northern vicinity are the Lakes of Dernick and Earne, highly interesting to the picturesque tourist. The surrender of the invading French army and of the misguided rebels, to Lord Cornwallis in 1798, took place at Ballynamuck, a small village not far distant from Granard.

LANESBOROUGH, 6 m. S.W. of Longford, is seated on the Shannon, where it spreads into Lough Ree or Reagh. See handsome stone Bridge, and Ch. Kenagh is a small village amidst pretty scenery on a river of that name; and near to it is Moss-Town, the splendid residence of the Newcomen family; with ruins of Ch. and Castle in the vicinity. Lough-Ree contains numerous islands and much picturesque scenery; and is well deserving an artist's attention. Rathcline, about 2 m. from the bridge, has an ancient Castle on the banks of the Shannon, at the foot of the beautiful hill of Rathcline, and one of the most ancient castles in the kingdom, but dismantled by Cromwell. From the summit of the hill the prospect is most extensive.

LONGFORD, (the shire town,) 59 m. W. of Dublin, stands in the midst of pleasing scenery on the river Camlin. See Ch.; Gaol; Court-house; Market-house; Barracks, and Charter School. At Killashee, see ruins of old Ch. and Brianstown Castle; also Tomonbarry Bridge over the Shannon. Newton Forbes is a small but pleasing village, with a good Ch.

MINERALS.

The soil generally consists of argillaceous, siliceous, and calcareous strata; with flags and slates, but there is a fine field of research for the mineralogist in the mountains.

BOTANY.

_Inula Helenium_, Elecampane:--in meadows.

_Lichen herbaceus_, Green Lichen:--on ash-trees.

_Oenanthe crocata_, Hemlock Dropwort:--in marshy grounds.

_T. Fielding fc._

_Carlingford Harbour & Castle._]

LOUTH

Is a small maritime county, undulating in general, though some well wooded hills at intervals afford variety to the picturesque eye. It contains numerous relics of antiquity, being in the heart of what was the Old English Pale. Bounded S. and S.W. by Eastmeath; W. Monaghan and Cavan; N. Armagh and Down; E. by the Irish Channel.

ATHERDEE, or ARDEE, 12 m. S.W. of Dundalk. See the Gaol, once an extensive fortress, gloomy and yet venerable. Ch., a mass of ruins except the chapel; a high wall encircles it, and its solemn appearance is much increased by the lofty trees which shade the sepulchral heaps that surround its mouldering walls. See Castle Guard, supposed by some to have been a sepulchral monument, perhaps a mote or meeting-place for the chiefs and people, 90 feet high, circumference at base 600, 140 at summit, with remains of two concentric octagonal buildings: the trench wide and deep, well planted. At Millextown, see ancient Ch. with gable end at some distance, reported to have been blown there in a gale of wind!

CARLINGFORD, 7 m. E. of Dundalk, of great antiquity, seated on a bay 3 m. in length, capable of receiving the largest vessels; but yet so full of rocks as to be extremely dangerous. But even these rocks are advantageous to the epicurist, for here he will find the finest green-finned oysters, long so celebrated among the lovers of good eating. When first founded, it consisted entirely of castles, or fortified mansions, erected for the protection of the English Pale against the incursions of the unconquered northern Septs. The principal Castle has been attributed to King John, or perhaps to De Courcy; very well situated to defend a narrow pass at the foot of the mountains close by the sea, where only a few men can march abreast, as there are most dangerous rocks washed by the sea on one side, whilst the other consists of lofty mountains almost impassable. The Castle itself is now a mere mass of ruins, triangular in its shape, and seated on a solid rock, with walls 11 feet in thickness. On the S. side enough remains to mark the ancient apartments. The view from it is extremely fine, with the ocean on one side, and on the other the lofty mountains of Mourne, which present a sublime spectacle. At the S. side of the town are the picturesque ruins of an ancient Dominican Abbey, founded by De Burgh, earl of Ulster, in the 14th century. Of this abbey little remains but the Ch., whose ivyed towers and battlemented walls present a very interesting object, much heightened by the surrounding romantic mountain scenery. See the lime-quarry, 1/4 m. distant, at the foot of a high mountain, mixed with basaltes, crystallizations of pyrites, shells, &c. From the situation of the town, the sun is lost several hours behind the hills after sunrise and before sunset.

CASTLE BELLINGHAM, 7 m. S. of Dundalk, is seated on an extensive but shallow bay; pleasant village, with good Inn. Good station for the sportsman, plenty of aquatic wild fowl. See at Greenmount, curious earth-works on summit of hill, with a tumulus: prospect extensive.

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The Scientific Tourist through IrelandChapter VI: Part 6

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