Chapter X: Part 10

_May 3._ Yesterday in the Afternoon Capt. _Courtney_ took Charge of the _Havre de Grace_, and I agreed to follow him in the Morning, to Point _Arena_, after I had ship’d off 7 live Black Cattel, some Sheep, Hogs and Fowls, with a good Quantity of Plantains, about 80 Jarrs and some Casks of Water, 24 Packs of Cocoa, 2 Sails, and 4 large Brass Patereroes. Two Barks sail’d about Midnight with the _Marquiss_. I began again early in the Morning, and by 9 got all aboard. We agreed to leave the Lieutenant of _Puna_ here, giving him 4 old sick Negroes, and a damag’d Bail of Goods for what we had taken from him, being a Man we had some Respect for: We also parted very friendly with several of our Prisoners we took at Sea, particularly an old Padre that I had treated civilly at my own Table, ever since we took him, for which he was extremely thankful.

About a League before the Town I saw the _Havre de Grace_ at Anchor, near the Edge of a Shoal, and the _Dutchess_’s Pinnace coming from her, with Captains _Courtney_, _Dover_, and _Dampier_, who had quitted the _Havre de Grace_, and desired to exchange with me, which I did.

_May 5._ I went aboard the _Havre de Grace_ about 2 in the Afternoon, and got her out of Danger into the Channel, but came to an Anchor again, by the Advice of Senior _Morell_ and the _Indian_ Pilot: I encourag’d ’em and the Men to assist me as much as possible to get her under Sail, because we were in hast to be gone, but there being little Wind, I could not make use of half the Ebb, before I was again in shole Water, and came to an Anchor, where for the want of Wind we lay for the rest of these 24 Hours.

_May 5._ This Morning I got the Length of our Ships again, and soon after Day went aboard the _Duke_, being quite sick by my long Fatigue. Capt. _Courtney_ came to me aboard, and we agreed to throw the Timber and great Boat between Decks in the Galeon overboard, to make room for the Flour and _Guiaquil_ Goods which were yet in the Barks. We gave the Flour Prize to the Prisoners whom we let go, to carry to the Inhabitants of _Guiaquil_, and took in as much Water as we could get. Most of it was fetch’d half Way above _Puna_, in the River towards _Guiaquil_, and tho’ but very indifferent, we had not half enough for want of Time.

_May 6._ Our Hostages are very uneasy, fearing the Mony will not come in Time to redeem them, and it’s worse than Death, they say, to be carried to _Great Britain_. We got all aboard last Night, by 7 a Clock, our People being fatigued. I was willing to rest my self and them one Night before we sailed; but Capt. _Courtney_ was in too much hast, and my Second, Capt. _Dover_, and my Pilot _Dampier_ forsook me to go along with him. They sailed at Midnight with the _Havre de Grace_, leaving me and the rest at Anchor. Mr. _Connely_, who went in the Bark for Water, did not return till the Morning, when we saw our Consort and Prize at Anchor; for the Weather falling calm, they did not get 2 Leagues from us that Ebb. At high Water, about 10 this Morning, all the rest of us came to sail. Our small Bower Cable was cut with the foul Ground, and we lost our Anchor.

I endeavour’d, but in vain, to convince the other Captains that we were not yet in any danger from the Enemy, because it was not possible that the _French_ and _Spaniards_ could have Notice of us, and arm out time enough from _Lima_ to attack us.

_May 7._ Yesterday, about 4 in the Afternoon, we came to an Anchor again, in 13 Fathom Water, about 4 Leagues below Point _Arena_. At 2 this Morning, with a very small Breeze, we came to sail: Sometime after Senior _Morell_, that went with us up to _Guiaquil_ from _Puna_, and a Gentleman of that Town related to our Prisoners, brought us about 3500 Pieces of 8, in Plate, towards the Ransom: they came as far as Point _Arena_ in a Boat, and thence follow’d in one of the 4 Barks that we left by Agreement.

_May 8._ Yesterday, in the Afternoon, we discharg’d all our Prisoners, except the _Morells_, a little _Dutchman_, and a Gentleman’s son of _Panama_, with our _Indian_ Pilots, that I took aboard to amuse the People of _Guiaquil_ that we should return thither, and 2 more that desir’d to stay with us, besides the 3 Ransomers. The Gentleman that came from _Guiaquil_ had a Gold Chain and some other Moveables, with which he purchased the _Beginning_ of us, and we gave the Captain of the _Havre de Grace_ 3 Negroe Women, and Senior _Morell_, and Senior _Ignatius_, one a piece, and to all of them good part of their waring Apparel: So that we parted very friendly. They told us, A Prisoner we put a shore at _Puna_, call’d Senior Don _Pedro Sinfuegos_, was a Man of great Credit at _Guiaquil_; that he had got a good Sum together, before they came thence in order to buy Goods of us, and that they expected him in less than 12 Hours; adding, that there were several others coming down to trade with us, but the Majority of our Officers would not believe ’em, being resolved to make the utmost Dispatch for the _Gallapagos_ Islands: They press’d to know where they might meet us to trade, but every one was against informing them of the Place where we design’d to rendezvous, lest they should discover it to the Enemies Ships of War.

[Sidenote: _Description of Guiaquil._]

At 8 last Night we came to an Anchor in 16 Fathom Water. The Island _Sancta Clara_ bore N. E. by N. 5 Leagues. At 2 this Morning we weighed with the Flood, Wind at S. W. at 6 the Island bore N. by E. 4 Leagues distance.

_A Description of the Province of_

Guiaquil.

The City or Town of _Guiaquil_ is the Metropolis of a Province of that Name in _Peru_, govern’d by a President with 5 or 6 Orderes, which makes a Royal _Audiencia_ or chief Court of Judicature, accountable only to the Viceroy in military Affairs. Every Province has a Government of the same Nature.

These Governors are commonly appointed, or, to speak more properly, purchase their Offices in Old _Spain_, for Life, or good Behaviour; and in case any die, or misbehave themselves, the Vice-roy may name another during his Time, which ought to be but 5 Years; but sometimes he gets these Officers of his own placing confirm’d by an Order from _Spain_, which is a considerable Part of the Vice-roy’s unknown Profits. The late Vice-roy continued 14 Years, several new ones having died by the Way. The King of _Spain_ himself scarce lives in more Splendor than his Vice-roy in the City of _Lima_, where the chief Courts of Judicature are kept, and Appeals are brought thither from all Courts and Provinces of this extensive Kingdom. I should not here mention the vast Wealth the late Vice-roy obtain’d during his Government; the Sum being so large that I thought it fabulous, but that I was inform’d of it by so many Hands, who told me, that about 4 Years ago he died at least worth 8000000 Pieces of 8, and left it to his Widow and Children, but the greatest Part to his eldest Son, the _Conde de la Monclo_, besides vast Sums he gave away in Charity, during his Life-time, and the many Churches, Fryaries, and Nunneries that he built.

He left a better Character behind him than any Vice-roy had done for an Age past. The Conde, his eldest Son, waits here, expecting to succeed the present Vice-roy of _Peru_ or _Mexico_, if the Government holds in Old _Spain_; but I and every _Englishman_ ought earnestly to hope, that K. _Charles_ III. will happily recover that Monarchy, and gratefully place a Vice-roy here that will shew himself as good a Friend to the _English_ Trade, as the present Vice-roy does to the _French_; for he openly espouses their Interest, and encourages them; whereas the _Spaniards_ say, he racks and heavily oppresses their own Countrymen.

The Corregidore that last died at _Guiaquil_, tho’ he had possess’d the Office but 5 Years, had rak’d together 300000 Pieces of 8, tho’ his Post was not allow’d to exceed above 2000 Pieces of 8 _per Annum_; but all the Corregidores make vast Advantages by Seizures, and trading privately themselves.

The Trade to and from _Mexico_ is forbid here, under the severest Penalty, especially transporting Quick-silver from _Peru_ thither, because Quantities are brought from Old _Spain_, which is impos’d on the Refiners at great Rates. Here are many Ships employ’d coasting in this Kingdom; but a Trade is so severely prohibited between ’em and _Mexico_, that all the Commodities with Silver and Gold in Returns, may have little other Circulation in these vast Countries, but by the Flota and Galeons to and from Old _Spain_. Yet notwithstanding the Severity us’d against private Traders, by the Vice-roys and Corregidores, there are some that use it, who have no Mercy shew’d ’em if caught, all being seiz’d in the King’s Name, tho’ his Majesty has little or no Share of it; All such Seizures (as I am told) being divided amongst these Officers, and the poor Sufferer banish’d or confin’d to a Goal.

[Sidenote: _Description of Guiaquil._]

All _English_ and _Dutch_ Goods, except what comes by the Galeons, are prohibited here, so that the private Traders, after they have by stealth purchased ’em in the _North_ Seas, must vend ’em in like manner all over _Peru_, and if the wholesale Merchants have not a good Certificate from the Commerce of _Sevilia_, that their Commodities came by the Flota or Galeons; whenever the Goods are question’d, they must disown them, for fear of a worse Punishment, unless they have a good Interest in the Vice-roy, which costs dear to purchase, and preserve; so that the Trader makes little Profit, but where the chief Officers have a feeling: yet tho’ these mercenary Vice-roys are so severe on others, they themselves employ the Corregidores to negotiate a Trade for them by a 3d Hand, which cannot be done to the Purpose, without being publickly known; so that Ships are constantly imployed on their Account, and carry Quick-silver and all manner of prohibited Goods to and from _Mexico_ out of By-ports. Thus, being their own Judges, they get vast Estates, and stop all Complaints in Old _Spain_, by Bribes. The Goods they trade for have a free Passage and Sale through the Continent, whilst others, if they do but offer at it, are punish’d as above.

Their other Ways of getting Money unjustly are too many; but in short, in my Opinion, there’s no Country naturally more rich, nor any People more terribly oppress’d.

The _Spaniards_ say, and I believe, not without Reason, That a Vice-roy, after purchasing his Place with all that he has, and quitting Old _Spain_ as poor as _Job_, comes here like a hungry Lion, to devour all that he can; and that every Officer under him in the Provinces (who are ten times more than are necessary) are his Jackals to procure Prey for him, that they may have a Share of it themselves.

To this we may add, the Burthen of a numerous and luxurious Clergy, that indulge their Pride, Sloth, Effeminacy and Bigottry, more than in the _Romish_ Countries of _Europe_: So that were this Country possess’d by an industrious and well govern’d People, we might have reason to fear, that Silver and Gold would become so plentiful, and by consequence of so little Value, that the World would be at a Loss to find a less troublesome and more acceptable Species to satisfy Avarice and Luxury.

The River of _Guiaquil_, from about 2 Leagues above _Puna_ to Point _Arena_, is so broad, that a Man can scarce see cross the Channel; the Land down to the Water-side, is low and cover’d with Mangrove Trees; the Tide flows above 3 Fathom, and an East and West Moon, as near as I could guess, makes High-water at _Puna_. The Tide has a quick Current, much stronger than in the _Thames_, and I believe the Ebb is little inferior to that at _Bristol_, and the Water as thick, and as much discolour’d. Not being able to describe the Channel plain enough to direct Strangers, I shall give a View of it from a _Spanish_ Draught; for I had not time enough to draw the Channel, or found it all along. There’s need of a good Pilot to carry a Vessel to the Town. The River is 14 Leagues navigable beyond it, and the Tide flows 20 Leagues above it, but Canoes and Bark-Logs go much higher.

The Province abounds with several sorts of good Timber, which makes it the chief Country of _Peru_ for building and repairing Ships; there’s seldom less than 6 or 7 at a time on the Stocks before the Town of _Guiaquil_. The chief Commodity this City and its Province afford is _Cocoa_, which is so plentiful, as to supply most Places on the _South Sea_; they say there’s never less exported in a Year than 30000 Cargaus, each Cargau 81 Pound Weight, and sometimes double the Quantity: It was purchas’d generally at half a Ryal _per_ Pound, but now much cheaper, so that the Cargau may be bought for 2 Pieces of Eight and a half. Their coasting Trade is for Salt and Salt Fish, from Point _Santa Helena_, and most vended at _Quito_ and other distant Places within Land. A vast quantity of Timber is laden here for _Truxillo_, _Chancay_, _Lima_, and other Sea-ports, where ’tis scarce; it pays a great Freight, and is a profitable Trade: They export also from hence Rice, Cotton, and some dry’d Jerkt Beef. There are no Mines of Silver or Gold in this Province, but Plenty of all sorts of Cattle, and very cheap, especially on the Island _Puna_, where we supply’d our selves with what we could stow conveniently. Here’s no other Corn but _Indian_, so that all their Flower is brought from _Truxillo_, _Cheripe_, and other Places in the Windward Parts, it blows here always Southerly. They are also supplied with several sorts of Woollen Cloth, and very good strong Bays made at _Quito_; their Wine, Brandy, Oil, Olives and Sugar, _&c._ come from _Piscola_, _Nasca_, and other Places to Windward. All sorts of _European_ Goods come hither from _Panama_, whither they are brought over Land from _Portobello_ out of the North Seas; so that the Number of Ships that come and go from hence, without including the Coasters, are no less than 40 Sail every Year, which shows that the Port of _Guiaquil_ is no mean Place of Trade in this Part of the World. A Market is also kept on Bark-Logs and Boats in the River every day before the Town, with all that the Country affords in great plenty.

Having thus given an account of the Wealth and Trade of the Town and Province from my own Knowledge, or good Information, I shall now proceed to give a further Account of the Strength and Government of the Province. The Corregidore is Governour in all Civil and Military Affairs of the whole; the next is his Lieutenant, call’d by the _Spaniards_ Lieutenant General, and all the chief Officers reside in or near _Guiaquil_.

[Sidenote: _Description of Guiaquil._]

Their Method of trying Civil and Criminal Causes being different from ours, I shall give as clear an Idea of it as I can. When any Court is held, or urgent Affair happens, the following Persons are summon’d to the Council in _Guiaquil_. First, the Corregidore, the Lieutenant General, 2 Alcaldes or Justices, who are generally Men vers’d in the Law, and serve in the nature of Mayors and Justices by turns every Year; the next is the Algozil Major, with 8 Regidores or Common Council-men, who supply the room of the superior Officers, in case of Absence or Death, till the Viceroys Pleasure be known, and always give their Votes in publick Affairs; in Cases of Law they are a standing Jury, and the Corregidore is Judge, but generally follows the Advice of the Alcalds. The Plaintiff or Defendant may appeal after Trial to the Supream Court of _Lima_, which is encourag’d by the Gentlemen of the Law, who improve Suits to such a Degree, that tho’ they are almost as numerous as the Clergy, yet they are a thriving Society, seldom want Imployment, and have large Fees. There are 2 Attorneys call’d Clerks of the Court, and 4 Algozils or Serjeants. All Lawyers are allow’d to practise here, and have a Sallary from the King besides their Fees, and since Money abounds here, many of ’em don’t scruple taking Fees on both Sides.

The Inquisition rages worse here than in Old _Spain_; their chief Court is at _Lima_, but 4 Officers from that Court are settl’d at _Guiaquil_, besides 24 Clergy belonging to the Town, who inform against any Person that they suspect of Opinions contrary to the _Roman_ Church, and with a violent Zeal prosecute ’em almost without any Formality. The Offenders are speedily sent to the chief Court at _Lima_, where nothing but a great deal of Money can save ’em, if found guilty in the least degree.

Their Military Men affect great Titles, and their Strength is as follows.

The Corregidore is General, _Don Hieronimo Boso_.
Master le Camp, _Don Christopher Ramadeo de Areano_.
Serjeant Major, _Don Francisco Gantes_.
Commissaria de la Cavalaria, _Don Antonio Calabria_.

They have 5 Dons all Captains of Infantry, and each of ’em a large Company: One Don is a Captain of near 200 Horsemen, and there are Lieutenants, Ensigns, Serjeants, Corporals and Drummers to each Company, as customary among the _Spaniards_. By the most reasonable Computation of their Force, they could in a few days bring together 900 armed Horse and Foot Militia; and I was inform’d by them they had not less than 500 of these in a Body before we landed, and beat ’em out of the Town, there being always that Number ready in the Towns and adjacent Parts upon an Alarm. These and many more form’d a sorry Camp within a League of us in the Woods, whilst with about 160 Men we kept the Town till they ransom’d it. An _English_-man that run over to us after the Fight, who had lived 2 Years in the Town, and saw their Force, told us there were many more than what the _Spaniards_ acknowledge by the abovemention’d Account, and that he saw at one time, a few Months before, upwards of 1100 Horse and Foot drawn up and muster’d before the Town.

Their other Towns are govern’d by Lieutenants deputed by the Corregidore; above half of ’em border on the same River and its Branches, so that they can join those of the Capital in 2 Tides, tho’ at several Leagues distance. These Towns and Lieutenancies are as follow.

_A LIST of the Lieutenancy of this Province._

_Leagues._

_Y Aquache_, govern’d by a Lieutenant, distant from }
_Guiaquil_} } 7

_Bava_ 12

_Pemocho_ has 6 Brass Guns of 16 Pound Ball,}
both govern’d by the same Lieutenant. } 14

_Puna_, } { 9 _Naranghal_, } By the same Lieutenant { 14 _Machala_, } { 14

_Daule_, a Lieutenant 7

Point _St. Hellena_,} { 30 _Colonche_, } by the same Lieut. { 20 _Chongong_, } { 7 _Chandoe_, } { 10

_Sheba_, } { 21 _Babaoya_, } by the same Lieut.{ 16 _Chilintoam_, } { 14

_Porto Vaco_, } { 34 _Charapeto_, } { 36 _Peco Assaa_, } by the same Lieut.{ 25 _Manta_, } { 40 _Hepe Hapa_, } { 30

_Porto Vaco_ was formerly the Metropolis of the Province, before the Government was removed to _Guiaquil_.

[Sidenote: _At Guiaquil._]

In the Towns and the whole Province the _Spaniards_ compute at least 10000 Inhabitants; but I believe there are many more. They are distinguish’d by themselves into 11 Classes or Sorts, which being particular, and worth remarking, I shall add a Description of them, for the Information of such as have not been in those Parts.

The first and chief is the original _Spaniards_, never yet mix’d with other People (at least as they pretend) and these are most respected.

2. The _Mustees_, begot by _Spaniards_ on _Indian_ Women.

3. _Fino Mustees_, their Children married again with the _Spaniards_.

4. _Terceroons de Indies_, their Children again mix’d with the _Spaniards_.

5. _Quarteroons de Indies_, their Posterity again mix’d with the _Spaniards_. These last are allowed to be Primitive _Spaniards_ again.

6. _Mullattoes_, begot by a _Spaniard_, or any _European_, on a Negro Woman.

7. _Quarteroon de Negroes_, again mixt with the _Spaniards_, and esteem’d no better than _Mullattoes_.

8. _Terceroon de Negroes_, a third Mixture with the _Spaniards_, still call’d _Mullattoes_, because they will not allow ’em the Privilege or Title of _Spaniard_ after once debas’d with the Negro Breed, tho’ some of ’em are as white as themselves; but they can’t get off the ugly Name of _Mullatto_, unless they hide their Descent, which is no hard Task, if they remove their Abode to another Place where they are not known, which is often practis’d and conniv’d at by the Fathers of the Church, to increase the Number of good Catholick _Spaniards_.

9. The 9th Sort is _Indians_, who are all of a dark Olive-tawny Colour; these (tho’ the true and antient Proprietors of the Country) are placed a Class below the worst of the _Spanish_ Descendants, which are generally begot without Marriage on their Servants and Slaves.

10. _Negroes._

11. All the Species and Breeds between the _Negroes_ and _Indians_ are call’d _Sambos_, tho’ by mixing their Breed as they do, they commonly differ little or nothing to the Eye from the _Spanish_ mix’d Descendants.

These 11 are the common Sorts, tho’ some of ’em seem not very regularly distinguish’d: But they have rung Changes so often in those Peals of Generation, that there is no End of their Distinctions. The _Spaniards_ are the fewest by far of all the Inhabitants; and were it not for those Mixtures, which the Fathers of the Church keep united, the _Indians_ might again take possession of their Country, for the _Spaniards_ would be too few to keep it, and much more uncapable of peopling it. Few of those Prisoners that fell into our hands were healthy and sound; near half of the _Spaniards_ discover’d publickly to our Doctors their Malady, in order to get Physick from them against the _French_ Disease, which is so common here, that they reckon it no Scandal to be deep in the Powdering Tub; and the Heat of the Country facilitating the Cure, they make very light of it. All the _Spaniards_ I discours’d allow that this rich Country is not a tenth peopled, nor are half the _Indians_ far within Land civilized, tho’ they affirm their King has in the _West Indies_ more Subjects of several Colours, than in all _Spain_, or the rest of his Dominions in _Europe_ (which may be true) and I believe they are such Subjects, as no Christian King can boast of; for the King of _Spain_ is able to match the Skins of his _Americans_ to any Colour, with more Variety and Exactness than a Draper can match his Cloth and Trimming.

The Account that the _French_ Buccaneers, _alias_ Pirates, gave of this Place, is so false, that there’s not the least Truth in it; so that by their Description it would not appear to be the same Place, had they not left infamous Marks of their being here: For when they took the Town of _Guiaquil_ about 22 Years ago, they discover’d little or no Bravery in the Attack (tho’ they lost a great many Men) and committed a great deal of Brutishness and Murther after they had the Place in their Power, which was above a Month here and at _Puna_. The Seasons here are improperly call’d Winter and Summer; the Winter is reckon’d from the Beginning of _December_ to the last of _May_, and all that Season is sultry hot, wet and unhealthy. From the latter End of _May_ to _December_ ’tis serene, dry and healthy, but not so violently hot as what they call Winter.

Their _Cocoa_ is ripe, and mostly gather’d between _June_ and _August_, and of the other Fruits natural to these Climates, some are ripe and others green all the Year. But I return to my Journal, and the Account of our Voyage to the _Gallapagoes_ Islands.

[Sidenote: _From Guiaquil towards the Gallapagos._]

_May 11._ A fresh Gale at S.S.W. We had upwards of 20 Men that fell ill within these 24 Hours, and our Consort near 50, of a malignant Fever, contracted as I suppose at _Guiaquil_, where I was informed, that about a Month or 5 Weeks before we took it, a contagious Disease which raged there swept off 10 or 12 Persons every Day for a considerable time; so that the Floors of all the Churches (which are their usual Burial Places) were fill’d so fast, that they were obliged to dig a large and deep Hole of about a Rod square, close by the great Church, where I kept Guard; and this Hole was almost fill’d with Corps half putrified. The Mortality was so very great, that many of the People had left the Town, and our lying so long in the Church surrounded with such unwholsom Scents, was enough to infect us too.

Capt. _Courtney_ was taken ill, and Capt. _Dover_ went on board the _Dutchess_ to prescribe for him.

_May 14._ This Day we saw a great many Albacores in pursuit of Flying Fish, and a very large Albacore[131] leap’d into one of our Boats. We have now about 50 Men down, and the _Dutchess_ upwards of 70; but I hope the Sea Air (which is very fresh) will make the Climate more healthy.

_May 15._ At 6 last Night Mr. _Samuel Hopkins_, Dr. _Dover’s_ Kinsman and Assistant, died; he read Prayers once a Day ever since we pass’d the Equinox in the North Sea: He was a very good temper’d sober Man, and very well beloved by the whole Ship’s Company.

_May 17._ This Morning we saw the Land bearing S. S. W. about 10 Leagues distant. It seems a large Island, and high Land: We tack’d and stood E. by S. Wind at S. by E. to turn up to Windward for the Island. Our Men in both Ships continue very ill; we have near 60 sick, and the _Dutchess_ upwards of 80. We had a good Observation, Lat. 00°. 37´´. S.

_May 18._ At 6 last Night the End of the Island bore S. by E. distant about 5 Leagues. _Edward Downe_ died at 12 at Night. When Day broke we were within 4 Leagues of 2 large Islands almost joining together, having passed the other that we saw yesterday. We sent our Boat ashore to look for Water, and agreed with our Consort where to meet in case of Separation. They turn’d towards an Island we saw to Windward, and left us to try this Island for Water: All our Prizes were to stay near us under Sail by a remarkable Rock.

_May 19._ Yesterday in the Afternoon the Boat return’d with a melancholy Account, that no Water was to be found. The Prizes we expected would have lain to Windward for us by the Rock, about 2 Leagues off Shore; but Mr. _Hatley_ in a Bark, and the _Havre de Grace_, turn’d to Windward after our Consort the _Dutchess_; so that only the Galleon and the Bark that Mr. _Selkirk_ was in staid for us. We kept plying to Windward all Night with a Light out, which they follow’d. At 5 in the Morning we sent our Boat ashore again to make a further Search in this Island for Water. About 10 in the Morning _James Daniel_ our Joiner died. We had a good Observation, Lat. 00° 32´´. S.

_May 20._ Yesterday in the Evening our Boat return’d, but found no Water, tho’ they went 3 or 4 Miles up into the Country: They tell me the Island is nothing but loose Rocks, like Cynders, very rotten and heavy, and the Earth so parch’d, that it will not bear a Man, but breaks into Holes under his Feet, which makes me suppose there has been a Vulcano here; tho’ there is much shrubby Wood, and some Greens on it, yet there’s not the least Sign of Water, nor is it possible, that any can be contain’d on such a Surface. At 12 last Night we lost sight of our Galleon; so that we have only one Bark with us now.

_May 21._ Yesterday in the Afternoon came down the _Dutchess_ and the _French_ Prize. The _Dutchess_’s Bark had caught several Turtle and Fish, and gave us a Part, which was very serviceable to the sick Men, our fresh Provisions that we got on the main Land being all spent. They were surpriz’d as much as we at the Galleon, and _Hatley_’s Bark being out of Sight, thinking before they had been with us. We kept Lights at our Top-mast’s Head, and fir’d Guns all Night, that they might either see or hear how to join us, but to no Purpose.

Capt. _Courtney_ being not yet quite recover’d, I went on board the _Dutchess_, and agreed with him and his Officers, to stay here with the _Havre de Grace_ and Bark, whilst I went in quest of the missing Prizes. At 6 in the Morning we parted, and stood on a Wind to the Eastward, judging they lost us that way. Here are very strange Currents amongst these Islands, and commonly run to the Leeward, except on the Full Moon I observed it ran very strong to Windward; I believe ’tis the same at Change.

_May 22._ Yesterday at 3 in the Afternoon we met with the Galleon under the East Island, but heard nothing of Mr. _Halley’s_ Bark. At 9 last Night _Jacob Scronder_ a _Dutch_-man, and very good Sailor, died. We kept on a Wind in the Morning to look under the Weather Island for Mr. _Hatley_, and fired a Gun for the Galleon to bear away for the Rendevouz Rock, which she did.

[Sidenote: _At the Gallapagos Islands._]

_May 23._ Yesterday at 3 in the Afternoon we saw the Weather Island near enough, and no Sail about it. We bore away in sight of the Rock, and saw none but our Galleon; we were in another Fright what became of our Consort, and the 2 Prizes we left behind; but by 5 we saw ’em come from under the Shore to the Leeward of the Rock. We spoke with ’em in the Evening; we all bewail’d Mr. _Hatley_,[132] and were afraid he was lost: We fir’d Guns all Night, and kept Lights out, in hopes he might see or hear us, and resolved to leave these unfortunate Islands, after we had view’d two or three more to Leeward. We pity’d our 5 Men in the Bark that is missing, who if in being have a melancholy Life without Water, having no more but for 2 Days, when they parted from us. Some are afraid they run on Rocks, and were lost in the Night, others that the 2 Prisoners and 3 Negroes had murder’d ’em when asleep; but if otherwise, we had no Water, and our Men being still sick, we could stay little longer for them. Last Night died _Law. Carney_ of a malignant Fever. There is hardly a Man in the Ship, who had been ashore at _Guiaquil_, but has felt something of this Distemper, whereas not one of those that were not there have been sick yet. Finding that Punch did preserve my own Health, I prescribed it freely among such of the Ships Company as were well, to preserve theirs. Our Surgeons make heavy Complaints for want of sufficient Medicines, with which till now I thought we abounded, having a regular Physician, an Apothecary, and Surgeons enough, with all sorts of Medicines on board. Our Owners believed so too, and did often at home set forth the uncommon Advantage we had in being so carefully provided for this tedious Voyage; but now we found it otherwise, and had not sufficient Medicines to administer for the Recovery of our sick Men, which so many being sick in both Ships, makes it a melancholy Time with us.

_May 21._ Yesterday at 5 in the Afternoon we ran to the Northward, and made another Island, which bore N. W. by W. distant 5 Leagues; and this Morning we sent our Boat ashore, to see for the lost Bark, Water, Fish or Turtle. This Day _Tho. Hughes_ a very good Sailor died, as did Mr. _George Underhill_, a good Proficient in most parts of the Mathematicks and other Learning, tho’ not much above 21 Years old: He was of a very courteous Temper, and brave, was in the Fight where my Brother was kill’d, and served as Lieutenant in my Company at _Guiaquil_. About the same time another young Man, call’d _John English_, died aboard the _Haver de Grace_, and we have many still sick. If we had staid in the Harbour, we should in all probability have lost near half of our Men. We had a good Observation, Lat. 00°. 14´´. N.

_May 25._ Yesterday at 6 in the Evening our Boat return’d from the Island without finding any Water, or seeing the Bark. About 4 in the Morning we stood to another Island, that bore about N. E. distant 4 Leagues, and the _Dutchess_ went to view another to the S. W. of it. Last Night _Peter Marshal_ a good Sailor died. This Morning our Boat with Mr. _Selkirk’s_ Bark went to another Island to view it. We had an Observation, Lat. 00°. 35´´. N.

_May 26._ Last Night our Boat and Bark return’d, having rounded the Island, found no Water, but Plenty of Turtle and Fish. This Morning we join’d the _Dutchess_, who had found no Water. About 12 a Clock we compar’d our Stocks of Water, found it absolutely necessary to make the best of our way to the Main for some, then to come off again; and so much the rather, because we expected that 2 _French_ Ships, one of 60, and another of 40 Guns, with some _Spanish_ Men of War, would suddenly be in quest of us.

_May 27._ At 6 last Night the Body of the Eastermost Island bore S. E. by S. distant 4 Leagues, from whence we took our Departure for the Main. Last Night died _Paunceford Wall_, a Land-man. A fresh Gale at S. E. with cloudy Weather.

[Sidenote: _From the Gallapagos Islands towards Peru._]

_May 30._ Fair Weather with moderate Gales from the S. S. E. to the S. by E. We are forced to water the Bark and Galleon every Day with our Yall: ’Tis a very great Trouble to hoist our Boat out daily; now that our Men are so very weak. Senior _Morell_, and the other Prisoners, tell us, that it frequently proves Calm between these Islands and the _Terra firma_, at this time of the Year, which if it should now happen, but for a few Days, would very much incommode us for Want of Water. Had we supplied our selves well at Point _Arena_, we should, no doubt, have had time enough to find the Island _S. Maria de l’Aquada_, reported to be one of the _Gallapagos_, where there is Plenty of good Water, Timber, Land and Sea Turtle, and a safe Road for Ships. This was the Place we intended for, and would have been very suitable to our Purpose, which was to lie some Time concealed. It’s probable there is such an Island, because one Capt. _Davis_,[133] an _Englishman_, who was a buccaneering in these Seas, above 20 Years ago, lay some Months and recruited here to Content: He says, that it had Trees fit for Masts; but these sort of Men, and others I have convers’d with, or whose Books I have read, have given very blind or false Relations of their Navigation, and Actions in these Parts, for supposing the Places too remote to have their Stories disprov’d, they imposed on the Credulous, amongst whom I was one, till now I too plainly see, that we cannot find any of their Relations to be relied on: Therefore I shall say no more of these Islands, since by what I saw of ’em, they don’t at all answer the Description that those Men have given us.

Nothing more remarkable happen’d till the 6th of _June_, but that _Thomas Morgan_, a _Welch_ Land-man, died the 31st of _May_; _George Bishop_, another Land-man, the 4th of _June_; and that we had Advice from some of our Men on board the Galeon, that the Prisoners and Blacks there had form’d a Plot to murder the _English_, and run away with the Ship in the Night. We examin’d the _Spaniards_ who positively denied it; yet some of the Blacks own’d there had been such a Discourse betwixt some Negroes and _Indians_, but they did not believe they were in earnest: So we contented our selves to disperse those Prisoners into several Ships, as the best Way to break the Cabal.

_June 6._ Yesterday at 4 a Clock in the Afternoon we spied a Sail, and at the same time saw the Land, the _Dutchess_ being a Mile a Head, gave chase first, we followed, and about 7 in the Evening the _Dutchess_ took her; we immediately sent our Boat aboard, and took out some of the Prisoners. She was a Vessel of about 90 Tun, bound from _Panama_ to _Guiaquil_, call’d the St. _Thomas de Villa nova_ and St. _Demas_, _Juan Navarro Navaret_ Commander. There were about 40 People aboard, including 11 Negro-Slaves, but little of _European_ Goods, except some Iron and Cloth. Captain _Courtney_ sent to tell me, the Prisoners he had knew nothing of our being in these Seas, and brought no News from _Europe_, but confirm’d the Story that they expected the Arrival of a Squadron from _England_, my Lord _Peterborough_, Admiral and General, by Sea and Land, which was dreaded every Day, and that they were inform’d he design’d to secure some Port in the North Sea, and send part of his Squadron to the South Sea. They had a Passenger of Note on board, call’d Don _Juan Cardoso_, he was going to be Governour of _Baldivia_, and said he had been taken not long before in the North Sea, by _Jamaica_ Cruisers. We bore away by Agreement for the Island _Gorgona_. This Morning we saw _Gallo_, near the Shore, a small Island, and the Main to the North of it, which by the Shore is low Land. Our late Prize ran aboard the _Havre de Grace_, and lost her Main Top-mast, but did little Damage to the other Ship. The _Dutchess_ took the Prize into a Tow. We had a good Observation. Lat. 2°. 00´´. N.

_June 7._ Yesterday at 2 in the Afternoon we made the Island of _Gorgona_; about 4 the Body bore E. N. E. 5 Leagues.

_June 8._ Yesterday at 4 in the Afternoon we got to an Anchor, about a good Cable’s Length from the Shore in 30 Fathom Water, on the East side of the Island; the Southermost point of it in sight bore S. E. about 3 Miles, and the Rocks off the North Point bore N. half W. a Mile and a half.

_June 8._ At 8 this Morning we spied a Sail to the Southward of the Island, between it and the Main; our Pinnace being a-shore for Water, the _Dutchess_’s Boat went first after her, ours followed on the other side of the Island, that if the Prize bore away, she might meet her on the West Side. In the mean time I took in Water from the Island.

[Sidenote: _In Gorgona Road._]

_June 9._ Yesterday in the Afternoon our Boats return’d and brought the Prize with them, being a small Bark of about 35 Tuns, call’d the _Golden Sun_; she belong’d to a Creek within this Island, on the Main, and was bound for _Guiaquil_, _Andros Enriques_ Master, with 10 _Spaniards_ and _Indians_, and some _Negroes_; no Cargo but a very little Gold Dust, and a large Gold Chain, together about 500 _l._ value, which were secur’d aboard the _Dutchess_. The Prize design’d to purchase Salt and Brandy with ’em. The Prisoners said they had no Notice of us, so that News does not spread in this Country so fast as we believ’d, especially this Way; the Land being, as I am informed, full of Woods and Rivers, and bad for Travellers or Posts. About 6 in the Evening there was a Consultation on board the _Dutchess_, with some of my Officers, Capt. _Dover_ and others; being discompos’d I was not with them, but resolved to act in consortship, according to their Agreement. After they had examin’d the Prisoners, they resolved to go to _Malaga_, an Island which had a Rode, where we design’d to leave our Ships, and with our Boats row up the River, for the rich Gold Mines of _Barbacore_, call’d also by the _Spaniards_, the Mines of St. _Juan_, from a Village about two Tides up the River of that Name; there we design’d to surprize Canoes, as fitter than our Boats to go against the Stream; for this Time of the Year being subject to great Rains, which makes a strong Fresh down the River, our Pilot, an old _Spaniard_, did not propose to get up to the Mines in less than 12 Days. I had often before suspected his Knowledge, but according to their Resolutions on board the _Dutchess_ we came to sail about 12 a Clock at Night, and steer’d N. E. for the Place. In the Morning I discours’d Captain _Morrel_, as I had done several Times before, and all the rest of the Prisoners, who agreed that this Island, call’d _Malaga_, was an unfrequented Place, and not fit for Ships, that ever they heard of. I had also 2 Prisoners aboard, that were taken in the last Prize, who had been at the said Island very lately; I examin’d ’em separately, and they agreed, that a Ship could not be safe there, and the Place being so narrow, ’twas impossible to get in, but with the Tide, which ran very strong; that the Entrance was full of Shoals, and had not Water enough, but at Spring Tides, for our Ships to get out or in; besides that if a Ship gets loose (as we must moar Head and Stern) she would turn all adrift, and very much endanger the whole; they added that the River was so narrow before we could get to the Mines, that the _Indians_ and _Spaniards_ might fell Trees a cross, and cut off our Retreat, there being thick Woods on the Banks of the River, from whence the _Indians_ would gall us with their poison’d Arrows; for those about the Mines were in Amity with the _Spaniards_, and a bold and a very numerous People. Upon this Information I was surpriz’d that the Council had not inform’d themselves better before they resolved on going to this Place, and immediately sent Mr. _White_ our Linguist with the two Prisoners, on board the _Dutchess_, to undeceive Capt. _Courtney_ and his Officers, and to desire his Company with some of the rest without Loss of Time, that we might agree how to act for our Safety and Interest, and not to proceed farther on this hazardous Enterprize.

_June 10._ Yesterday Afternoon Capt. _Courtney_ and Capt. _Cook_ came aboard us. We immediately agreed to return to _Gorgona_, to refit our Prizes, and that there we would come to a final Resolution. We saw the Island at 6 in the Evening, bearing S. W. Distance about 8 Leagues. In the Night, we had much Rain with Lightning and Squalls of Wind, by which the _Havre de Grace_ lost her main Top-mast. This Morning died _Jonathan Smyth_, a Smith by Trade, and Armourer’s Mate of our Ship. I went on board the _Havre de Grace_ and _Dutchess_, and lent them what was necessary for their Assistance. Our Men being very much fatigued, many of them sick, and several of our Good Sailors dead, we are so weak, that should we meet an Enemy in this Condition, we could make but a mean Defence. Every thing looks dull and discouraging, but it’s in vain to look back or repine in these Parts.

_June 11._ We had good Soundings, but came no nearer the Shore than 36 Fathom Water, it being uncertain Soundings, and dangerous for Ships to venture within that Depth here.

_June 12._ Had rainy Weather, with little or no Wind. At 8 this Morning saw the Island of _Gorgona_; bore S. half W. distant about 9 Leagues. We impatiently long to be there again, at an Anchor, being in an ordinary Condition to keep the Sea, tho’ when there, we are open to all Advantages against us, if the Enemy is out after us, which we expect, and that this is a Place they will search, but having no other Place so convenient, we must run the Risque of it.

_June 13._ About 4 in the Morning we came to an Anchor again at _Gorgona_, in 40 Fathom Water, and most of both Ships Officers having some Thoughts of Careening[134] here. We held the following Committee:

_GORGONA_: 13 June, 1709. At a Committee held on Board the _Duke_.

_We have agreed on Mr._ Lancelot Appleby _to succeed Mr._ Samuel
Hopkins, _and Mr._ Robert Knowlesman _to succeed Mr._ John Rogers,
_who being deceased, these we approve as the fittest Men to be
Members of a Committee in their Places; and having at the same time
consider’d the Necessity of cleaning our Ships, we do desire Capt._
Courtney _to use all manner of Dispatch to get ready for a Careen,
and that the Men and Officers assist him as much as possible, and
then he to assist the_ Duke, _as soon as his Ship is compleated,
and off the Careen, because one Ship_

[Sidenote: _At Gorgona._]

_ought to be in a Readiness to protect the other, whilst on a
Careen, in case we be attack’d by the Enemy._

Tho. Dover, _Pres._ Wm. Stratton,
Woodes Rogers, Cha. Pope,
Step. Courtney, Tho. Glendall,
Wm. Dampier, John Connely,
Edw. Cooke, John Bridge.
Rob. Frye,

While we were together, we agreed to fit out the _Havre de Grace_ with twenty Guns, and put Men out of each Ship aboard her, under Captain _Cook_’s Command, resolving to carry her home with us, and to make a third Ship to cruise in our Company, whilst in these Seas.

_June 14._ I proposed before, we should careen at Port _a Penees_, because it was an unfrequented Place, and good Harbour, where we might lie sometime undiscover’d, and from thence go to the Bay of _Panama_, when ready; but considering our present Condition, every body seem’d most inclinable to stay here, which I the more readily agreed to, because it was pleasing to the rest, and that, if any Casualty happen’d, I might not be reflected on, if I had over-perswaded them to go elsewhere. We began, according to agreement, to careen the _Dutchess_ first, and I to lye on the Guard the mean while, in case of being attack’d, which we had reason to fear, having been so long from _Guiaquil_. The _Dutchess_ began to make ready for a Careen. Captain _Courtney_ and I went a fishing together, and had pretty good Luck, Fish being plenty here.

_June 15._ We had indifferent fair Weather, but very sultry. We put all our sick Men, with our Consort’s on board the Galeon, being about 70 in Number, besides sick Officers, whom we put on board the _Havre de Grace_.

_June 16._ We built a Tent a-shore for the Armourer and Cooper; set several Men to cutting of Wood, and clearing a Place for the sick Mens Tents.

Nothing remarkable pass’d from the 16th, but that we had frequent Thunder, Lightning and Rain, which retarded our Careening the _Dutchess_, till the 21st that we finish’d her, and began upon our Ship: We were forc’d to carry most of our Stores ashore, for want of Barks, which are full of the _Dutchess_’s Provisions and Materials. We seldom miss catching good Fish daily, and keep a Boat and Men imploy’d for that purpose, there being very little Refreshment in the Island. We spent till the 25th in careening; the Sea swelling into the Road hinder’d us heaving our Keel wholly out; however we clean’d within less than 2 Streaks of the Keel; and being upright again,

_June 28._ We got our Provisions aboard, and mounted all our Guns; so that in 14 Days we had calk’d our Ships all round, careen’d, rigg’d and stow’d them again, both fit for the Sea; which was great Dispatch, considering what we had to do was in an open Place, with few Carpenters, and void of the usual Conveniencies for careening. The _Spaniards_ our Prisoners being very dilatory Sailors, were amazed at our Expedition, and told us, they usually take 6 Weeks or 2 Months to careen one of the King’s Ships at _Lima_, where they are well provided with all Necessaries, and account it good Dispatch.

_June 29._ Yesterday in the Afternoon we built a Tent ashore for the Sick, who are now much better than when we came to the Island, neither the Weather nor the Air here being half so bad as the _Spaniards_ represented, which made us think ’twould be worse than we found it. This Morning we got the sick Men into their Tents, and put the Doctors ashore with them: We unloaded the _Havre de Grace_, and chose a Place very easy to lay her ashore, to clean her Bottom. A clear Sand about a Mile and half from the Place where we rode, near the South End of the Island.

_June 30._ I went to her this Morning, and left Capts. _Courtney_ and _Cooke_, with the Carpenters, _&c._ to grave her Bottom, whilst I took the most experienced Prisoners, and walked through the Island (which is every where full of Wood) to look out Masts for her. The _Spaniards_ knew best what Wood was most fit for this Purpose here. We found one Tree proper to be a Fore-mast, having before that cut down a great Tree big enough, but a wrong sort of Wood. All the Timber here is too heavy, but we must use it, her old Masts and Yards being unserviceable, her Sails rotten, and very little of her Cordage fit to be us’d; so that it’s near equal to rigging out a-new. She is a very sharp Ship, but lies easy on soft red Sand, which is dry at little more than half Tide. The Worms had not much damag’d her Bottom, but her Rudder and Cut-water[135] were eaten to pieces. It flows 15 Foot at Spring Tides.

_July 1._ We have Men imploy’d in our Tents ashore, to prepare the Rigging as fast as possible; a Rope-maker at work to make twice-laid Cordage, and a Smith, Block-maker

_From the engraving by W. Skelton, after the painting by Hogarth._]

[Sidenote: _At Gorgona in Peru._]

and Sail-maker at the same time; so that we want no Tradesmen to fit her out. Necessity makes us of all Trades on this occasion.

The Natives of Old _Spain_ are accounted but ordinary Mariners, but here they are much worse; all the Prizes we took being rather cobled than fitted out for the Sea: So that had they such Weather as we often meet with in the _European_ Seas in Winter, they could scarce ever reach a Port again, as they are fitted, but they sail here hundreds of Leagues. The _French_ us’d her as a Victualling Ship, and sold her at _Lima_, as they have done several others, for 4 times the Money they cost in _Europe_. ’Tis certainly a good Method they took at first trading hither, to bring a Victualling Ship with no other Goods but Provisions and Stores along with ’em. Generally one of these small Ships comes out with two Traders, and since in six, nine, or 12 Months time, which they stay in these Seas, they expend their Provisions, and lessen their Men by Mortality or Desertion, they sell their Victualling Ship, and being recruited with Men and Provisions out of her, they return well victualled and mann’d to _France_. But now they put into _Chili_, where they sell the remaining Part of their Cargo, and salt up a new Stock of Provisions for their homeward bound Passage, so that they need bring no more Victuallers.