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Chapter VII: Part 7

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The 15_th_ of _Novemb._ 1577. the famous Sir _Francis Drake_ set out from _Plymouth_ with five Sail, and having touch’d at several places by the way, enter’d the Straits the 21_st_ of _August_ following. He found them very dangerous, because of the many Turnings, contrary Winds, and sudden Blasts from high Mountains cover’d with Snow on both sides, and their Tops reaching above the Clouds, and no anchoring but in some narrow River or Creek. The 24_th_ he came to an Island in the Straits, where there were so many Fowls call’d _Penguins_, that his Men kill’d 3000 in a day, which serv’d them for Provisions. The 6_th_ of _September_ he enter’d the _South-Sea_, where he met with dreadful Storms, and one of his Ships was drove back into the Straits, thro which she return’d to _England_; as Sir _Francis Drake_ did _July_ 24. 1580. being the first Sea-Captain that ever sail’d round the World, and brought his Ship home, which was accounted a great Honour to the _English_ Nation.

_July_ 1. 1586. Mr. _Tho. Candish_, afterwards Sir _Thomas_,[117] sail’d from _Plymouth_ with three Ships, and the 6_th_ of _January_ after enter’d the Straits, having met with a severe Storm near the mouth of ’em. He took the Remainders of a _Spanish_ Garison there, who from 400 were reduc’d to 23 by Famine; and those of King _Philip’s_ City, which had been built in the Straits, were in the same miserable Condition, so that they abandon’d the Place. They found Cannibals in some part of the Straits, who had eat many of the _Spaniards_, and design’d the like to the _English_, had they not been kept off by their Guns. Mr. _Candish_ was stop’d here a considerable while by a furious Storm and bad Weather, which reduc’d him to Want of Provisions, till the 24_th_ of _February_ that he got into the _South-Sea_, and bought Provisions of the _Indians_. Mr. _Candish_ return’d to _England_, after having sail’d round the World, the 9_th of September_ next Year. He again attempted the Passage of the same Straits in 1591, but without Success;

[Sidenote: _Account of the Straits of Magellan._]

as Mr. _Fenton_[118] did in 1582. as _Floris_ did at the same time; the Earl of _Cumberland_ in 1586. Mr. _Chidley_ in 1589. and Mr. _Wood_ in 1596. Sir _Richard Hawkins_ pass’d them in 1593. but was taken by the _Spaniards_; and Mr. _Davis_[119] the Discoverer to the N W. pass’d and repass’d those Straits, but was forc’d back by contrary Winds. So that our Countrymen, tho they did not all succeed in the Attempt, yet have been the most fortunate in passing them of any other Nation: for the _Dutch_ pass’d them in 1597. with five Ships, of which only one return’d. Five other _Dutch_ Ships pass’d them in 1614. when they lost one of them. In 1623. the _Dutch Nassaw_ Fleet, so call’d because the Prince of _Orange_ was the greatest Adventurer, attempted it with fifteen brave Ships, and 2 or 3000 Men; but were repuls’d, wherever they came to land, by the _Spaniards_, so that they could not settle there.

Other Nations attempted it likewise, and particularly Don _Garcia de Loaisa_, a Knight of _Malta_ and a _Spaniard_, with seven Ships and 450 Men; and tho he pass’d the Straits, he died himself, and all his Ships were afterwards taken by the _Portuguese_ or others. _Vargas_ Bishop of _Placentia_ sent 7 Ships to attempt it, one of which only succeeded, went to _Arequipa_ a Port on the _South-Sea_, and discover’d the Situation of the Coast of _Peru_; but went no further. _Ferdinand Cortez_, the Conqueror of _New Spain_, sent two Ships and 400 Men in 1528. to discover the way to the _Moluccas_ thro the Straits, but without success. Two _Genoese_ Ships were the first that attempted it in 1526, after _Magellan_, but could not effect it. _Sebastian Cabot_ try’d it also by Commission from Don _Emanuel_ King of _Portugal_, but could not do it. _Americus Vespusius_ was sent by the same Prince, but could neither find the Straits nor the River of _La Plata_. _Simon Alcasara_ a _Spaniard_ attempted it likewise with several Ships and 440 Men, but came back without performing it, his Men having mutiny’d. All these Attempts by the _Spaniards_, &c. happen’d before Sir _Francis Drake_ perform’d it.

In the Reports made of those Straits upon Oath to the Emperor _Charles_ V. those who attempted this Passage give the following Account, _viz._ That from the Cape of 11000 _Virgins_ at the Entrance of the North Sea, to the Cape of _Desire_ at the Entrance of the South-Sea, is 100 _Spanish_ Ls. that they found in this Strait three great Bays of about 7 Leagues wide from Land to Land, but the Entrances not above half a League, and encompass’d with such high Mountains, that the Sun never shines in them, so that they are intolerably cold, there being a continual Snow, and the Nights very long: That they found good Water with Cinamon-Trees, and several others, which tho they look green burnt in the Fire like dry Wood: That they found many good sorts of Fish, good Harbours with 15 fathom Water, and several pleasant Rivers and Streams: That the Tides of both Seas meet about the middle of the Straits with a prodigious Noise and Shock; but some of the _Portuguese_, who had pass’d the Straits, say they are only high Floods which last about a month, rise to a great height, and sometimes fall so low and ebb so fast, that they leave Ships on dry ground. The Reader may find more of this in _Herrera’s_ History: but others differ in their Accounts, and particularly _Spilberg_ a _Dutchman_, who mentions a Port here that he call’d _Famous_, by way of Eminency, the adjacent Soil producing Fruit of various Colours and excellent Taste, and affording Brooks of very good Water. He mentions 24 other Ports besides those that he did not see, and particularly the _Piemento_ or Pepper-Harbour, so call’d because of the Trees which grow there of an Aromatick Smell, whose Bark tastes like Pepper, and is more hot and quick than that of the _East-Indies_. The _Spaniards_ having brought some of it to _Seville_, it was sold there for two Crowns a pound.

The last of our Countrymen who pass’d them was Sir _John Narborough_,[120] who set out from the _Thames_, _May_ 15. 1669. with two Ships. He had K. _Charles_ II’s Commission, was furnish’d out at his Majesty’s Charge, and enter’d the Straits _October_ 22. following. He says, that from the Entrance of this Strait to the Narrow there’s good Anchorage, and not much Tide, but in the Narrow the Tide runs very strong. The Flood sets into the Straits, and the Ebb out, keeping its Course as on other Coasts. It rises and falls near 4 Fathom perpendicular, and it is high Water here on the Change of the Moon at eleven a clock. When he came to the Narrow, he found the Tide very strong, which endanger’d the running of his Ships upon the steep Rocks on the North side. From the first Narrow to the second is above 8 Ls. and the Reach betwixt them 7 Ls broad. He found a Bay on the North

[Sidenote: _Account of the Straits of Magellan._]

side at the Point of the second Narrow, where one may ride in 8 Fathom Water in clear sandy Ground half a mile from the Shore. In the Channel of the second Narrow he found 38 Fathom Water, and several Bays and Cliffs with little Islands. He exchang’d several Trifles with the Natives for Bows and Arrows, and their Skin-Coats. They were of a middle Stature, well limb’d, with round Faces, low Foreheads, little Noses, small black Eyes and Ears, black flaggy Hair of an indifferent Length, their Teeth white, their Faces of an Olive-Colour, daub’d with Spots of white Clay and Streaks of Soot, their Bodies painted with red Earth and Grease, their Clothing of the Skins of Seals, Guianacoes and Otters, wrapt about them like the _Scotch_ Highlanders Plads. They had Caps of the Skins of Fowls with the Feathers on, and pieces of Skins on their feet to keep them from the ground. They are very active and nimble, and when about Business go quite naked; only the Women have a piece of Skin before them, and differ from the Men in Habit only by want of Caps, and having Bracelets of Shells about their Necks. They seem to have no manner of Government nor Religion, live by Hunting and Fishing, and are arm’d with Bows and Arrows; the latter 18 Inches long, and headed with Flint Stones. These People Sir _John_ found in _Elizabeth-Isle_, which lies near the second Narrow. In Port _Famine_ Bay, S. Lat. 53. 35. he found good Wood and Water, and abundance of _Piemento_ Trees. Their Language is guttural and slow. Sir _John_ is of opinion, that the Mountains contain Gold or Copper. He computes the whole Length of the Straits at 116 Leagues. For the rest we refer to him.

I have insisted the longer on these Straits, partly because they are so much talk’d of, and partly to justify our going to the _South-Seas_ by the way of Cape _Horne_, which is far more safe: so that in all probability the Straits of _Magellan_ will be little frequented by _Europeans_ in time to come.

The Land on the North side of the Straits is call’d _Patagonia_, and that on the South _Terra del Fuego_, because of the numerous Fires and the great Smoke which the first Discoverers saw upon it. It extends the whole Length of the Straits, and lies from East to West about 130 Leagues, according to _Ovalle_; and before the Discovery of the Straits of _St. Vincent_, otherwise call’d _Le Maire’s_ Straits, was suppos’d to join to some part of the _Terra Australis_. _Ovalle_ says, that on the Continent of _Chili_, near the Straits of _Magellan_, there’s a People call’d _Cessares_, who are suppos’d to be descended from part of the _Spaniards_ that were forc’d ashore in the Straits, when the Bishop of _Placentia_ sent the Ships abovemention’d to discover the _Molucca_ Islands. ’Tis suppos’d they contracted Marriages with some _Indian_ Nation, where they have multiply’d, and taught them to build Cities and the Use of Bells. _Ovalle_ says, that when he wrote the History of _Chili_, he receiv’d Letters and other Informations that there is such a Nation in those parts, and that one of the Missionaries had been in the Country with Captain _Navarro_, and found the People to be of a white Complexion with red in their Cheeks; by the Shape of their Bodies they seem’d to be Men of Courage and Activity, and by the Goodness of their Complexion ’twas probable they might be mix’d with a Race of _Flemmings_, who had been ship-wreck’d in those parts. But there being no farther Account of these People since _Ovalle’s_ Account of _Chili_ in the Year 1646. we believe this Relation to be fabulous.

[Sidenote: _Account of the Straits of Magellan._]

M. _de Beauchesne Gouin_, who is the last that attempted the Passage of the Straits of _Magellan_, that we have heard of, came to an anchor at the _Virgins_ Cape in the mouth of this Strait the 24_th_ of _June_ 1699. and the Wind being contrary, he lay at anchor betwixt the Continent and _Terra del Fuego_. He weighed again, the Winds being still contrary, and on the third of _July_ anchor’d at Port _Famine_ in the Straits, where the _Spaniards_ had built a Garison, but were forc’d to quit it for want of Provisions. He observes, that from the Mouth of the Straits to this place, the Climate seem’d to be as temperate as in _France_, tho now the coldest Season of the Year in those parts. He found abundance of Wood for Firing, but the greatest Inconveniency he met with there, was from the great Storms of Snow, tho it did not lie long, being carry’d off by Rains which come from the West. He is of opinion that a Settlement might easily be made here, in a part of the Country extending above 20 Leagues; and that he was inform’d the Islands of _St. Elizabeth_ in the Straits are proper enough for Corn and Cattel, if planted with them. He sent his Sloop ashore on _Terra del Fuego_, where he saw Fires, and found the savage Natives by 50 or 60 together in Companies, and some of them came aboard his Ship that lay 5 Ls. from the shore. They were very peaceable and friendly, but more miserable than our Beggars in _Europe_, having no Clothes but a strait Coat of wild Beasts Skins, that comes no lower than their knees, and pitiful Hutts made up of Poles cover’d with Skins of Beasts; and this is all the shelter they have against the Extremity of the Weather. They came in such multitudes to beg from him, as soon made him weary of their Company; so that he weigh’d again the 16_th_ of _August_, and stopt at Port _Galand_ to leave some Letters there for those who were to follow him from _France_, as had been agreed on. And here he observes, that both the Climate and the Navigation of the Straits are very unequal; and that from this place to the Entrance of the _South-Sea_ there’s nothing but extraordinary high Mountains on each side, from whence come very impetuous and frightful Torrents, and scarce any place for Anchorage to be found, or one Day without either Rain or Snow. He adds, that he found an Island opposite to the Mouth of the Strait of _St. Jerom_, that is set down in none of our Maps. This Island, he says, has two good Harbours, which may be of great consequence to those who pass this way. He took possession of it, call’d it by the name of the Island _Louis le Grand_; the largest Harbour he nam’d Port _Dauphin_, and the lesser, which is very convenient, Port _Philippeaux_. After having given this Character of those Straits, he says one may be sure of a Passage thro them, provided it be in the proper Season, but ’tis very difficult in the Winter. He came out of those Straits into the _South-Sea_ on the 21_st_ of _January_, 1700. and went to view the Harbour of _San Domingo_, which he says is the _Spanish_ Frontier, and the only Place where a new Settlement can be made there, the rest being all possess’d already. He arriv’d there the 3_d_ of _February_, 1700. and on the 5_th_ anchor’d on the East of an Island call’d by different Names, but the latest Authors call it _St. Magdalens_ Island. He sent his first Lieutenant to view and take possession of it, who brought him word that it was a very pleasant place, and shew’d him some fine beautiful Shrubs and Pease-Blossoms that he found upon the East side of it; from whence he conjectures that it may be a proper place to inhabit, tho he owns that the Climate is very moist, and they have frequent Rains and Mists, which he ascribes to the high Mountains. He made ready to discover four other Islands, which lie in view of this Isle and the Main Land, and sounded as he went on, but durst not venture to go among ’em with so large a Ship, because there blew a strong North-West Wind, follow’d by a thick Mist, which made him lose sight of Land; so that to his great sorrow he could not compleat the Discovery of that Frontier. He adds, that ’tis full of high Mountains down to the very Sea; but was afterwards inform’d by a _Spaniard_ who winter’d in those parts, that there’s a very good Harbour for Ships to ride in, where they may be moor’d to tall Trees, and that there are very few Inhabitants on this Coast, but some wandring Savages, like those on the Straits of _Magellan_.

This and the other Journals convince me intirely that the best way to the _South-Sea_ is round Cape _Horne_, the Route we pursu’d in our Voyage.

Besides what I said from my own Observation, to prove how extensive a Trade we might have in those Seas, I shall add the following Observations from M. _de Beauchesne_; who says, that tho he was look’d upon as a Free-Booter, and that the then _Spanish_ Governours on those Coasts were forbid to trade or suffer the People to trade with any but their own Subjects in those Seas, and that at _Valdivia_ and other places they fir’d at him when he approach’d their Harbours, and deny’d so much as to sell him any Provisions, or to suffer him to wood or water; yet at _Rica_ some particular Persons traded with him to the Value of 50000 Crowns, and told him, That that place was not so proper for them to act so manifestly contrary to Law, but if he went to a place more retir’d, they would buy all he had, tho both his Ships were full of Goods. Accordingly, when he came to _Hilo_, a great number of Merchants bought all that he had of Value at good rates. He owns that the Cloth he had on board was half rotten, that the Merchants were vex’d at their Disappointment, and express’d their Resentment that he should come to those parts so ill provided: but in other places the People bought all to the very Rags he had on board, and brought him Provisions in abundance to sell, tho they were forbid doing so on pain of Death; and the Officers themselves conniv’d at it.

He return’d by the way of Cape _Horne_ in 58 deg. 15 min. _January_ 1701. and had as good a Passage and Season as could be desir’d, but saw no Land on either side till the 19_th_ of _January_ 1701. when he discover’d a small Island about 3 or 4 Ls. round, in Lat. 52. odd min. not mark’d in our Maps, with strong Currents near it; and on the 20_th_ he came to the Isle of _Sebald de Wert_, which is a marshy Land with some rocky Mountains, no Trees, but abundance of Sea-Flow.

[Sidenote: _Account of the Straits of Le Maire._]

It is proper here likewise to give an Account of the Straits of _Le Maire_, so call’d from _James Le Maire_ an _Amsterdam_ Merchant, their Discoverer in 1615. They lie in S. Lat. 55. 36. and are form’d by the _Terra del Fuego_ on the West, and an Island by the _Dutch_ call’d _Staten-landt_, or the Country of the States, on the E. The Straits are 8 Leagues wide, with good Roads on each side, and plenty of Fish and Fowl. The Land on both sides is high and mountainous. The Discoverers saw very large Fowls bigger than Sea-Mews, and their Wings when extended above a Fathom long each. They were so tame that they flew into the Ships, and suffer’d the Sailors to handle them. In Lat. 57. they saw two barren Islands, which they call’d _Barnevelt_; and the South Cape of _Terra del Fuego_, which runs out in a Point to Lat. 57. 48. they nam’d Cape _Horne_. Some compute this Strait to be only 5 Leagues in Length.

_Ovalle_[121] says, that in 1619 the King of _Spain_ being inform’d that _Le Maire_ had discover’d these Straits, he sent two Vessels to make a further Discovery of ’em. These Ships came to the East side of the Straits of _Magellan_, where the Crew found a sort of Giants higher by the Head than any _Europeans_, who gave them Gold in exchange for Scissars and other Bawbles; but this can’t be rely’d on. They went thro this Strait in less than a day’s time, it being not above 7 Leagues in length.

I return now to my Journal.

_Jan. 16._ Fresh Gales of Wind with cloudy Weather. These 24 hours we had extraordinary smooth Water, as if we were close under Land: Indifferent warm Weather. Wind from the W S W. to W by N.

_January 20._ Yesterday at three in the Afternoon we saw high Land bearing E by N. dist. about 10 Ls. being the Land about Port _St. Stephen’s_ on the Coast of _Patagonia_ in the _South-Sea_, describ’d in the Draughts. S. Lat. 47.

_Jan. 22._ Fair Weather, with fresh Gales of Wind from W by S. to the W N W. Last night _George Cross_ died; he was a Smith by Trade, and Armourer’s Mate. We and the _Dutchess_ have had a great many Men down with the Cold, and some with the Scurvey; the Distemper that this Man died of. The _Dutchess_ had always more sick Men than we, and have so now: They buried but one Man that died of Sickness, and tell us they hope the rest will recover. We have but one Man whose Life we doubt of, tho most want a Harbour. This day Capt. _Courtney_ and Capt. _Cook_ din’d with us. At two a clock we saw the Land on the Coast of _Patagonia_, being very high, distant about 14 Ls. Lat. 44. 9. S.

_Jan. 26._ Fresh Gales with Clouds and Rain. We spoke with our Consort this day, who complains their Men grow worse and worse, and want a Harbour to refresh ’em; several of ours are also very indifferent, and if we don’t get ashore, and a small Refreshment, we doubt we shall both lose several Men. We are very uncertain of the Latitude and Longitude of _Juan Fernandez_, the Books laying ’em down so differently, that not one Chart agrees with another; and being but a small Island, we are in some doubts of striking it, so design to hale in for the main Land to direct us.

_Jan. 27._ Fair Weather, smooth Water, pleasant Gales of Wind, veerable from the W. to the N W. had a good Amplitude, found the Variation to be 10 deg. Eastward. This is an excellent Climate. Lat. 36. 36. S.

_Jan. 28._ We have had moderate Weather. At six a clock we saw the Land, the Eastermost appearing like an Island, which we agree to be the Island of _St. Mary_ on the Coast of _Chili_: it bore E by N. dist. 9 or 10 Ls. Our Consort’s Men are very ill; their want of Clothes, and being often wet in the cold Weather, has been the greatest cause of their being more sick than our Ships Company.

_Jan. 31._ These 24 hours we had the Wind between the S. and S W by W. At seven this morning we made the Island of _Juan Fernandez_; it bore W S W. dist. about 7 Ls. at Noon W by S. 6 Ls. We had a good Observ. Lat. 34. 10. S.

[Sidenote: _We Make the Isle of Juan Fernandez._]

_February 1._ About two yesterday in the Afternoon we hoisted our Pinnace out; Capt _Dover_ with the Boats Crew went in her to go ashore, tho we could not be less than 4 Ls. off. As soon as the Pinnace was gone, I went on board the _Dutchess_, who admir’d our Boat attempted going ashore at that distance from Land: ’twas against my Inclination, but to oblige Capt. _Dover_ I consented to let her go. As soon as it was dark, we saw a Light ashore; our Boat was then about a League from the Island, and bore away for the Ships as soon as she saw the Lights. We put out Lights abroad for the Boat, tho some were of opinion the Lights we saw were our Boats Lights; but as Night came on, it appear’d too large for that. We fir’d one Quarter-Deck Gun and several Muskets, showing Lights in our Mizen and Fore-Shrouds, that our Boat might find us, whilst we ply’d in the Lee of the Island. About two in the Morning our Boat came on board, having been two hours on board the _Dutchess_, that took ’em up a-stern of us: we-were glad they got well off, because it begun to blow. We are all convinc’d the Light is on the shore, and design to make our Ships ready to engage, believing them to be _French_ Ships at anchor, and we must either fight ’em or want Water, _etc._

_Febr. 2._ We stood on the back side along the South end of the Island, in order to lay in with the first Southerly Wind, which Capt. _Dampier_ told us generally blows there all day long. In the Morning, being past the Island, we tack’d to lay it in close aboard the Land; and about ten a clock open’d the South End of the Island, and ran close aboard the Land that begins to make the North-East side. The Flaws[122] came heavy off shore, and we-were forc’d to reef our Top-sails when we open’d the middle Bay, where we expected to find our Enemy, but saw all clear, and no Ships in that nor the other Bay next the N W. End. These two Bays are all that Ships ride in which recruit on this Island, but the middle Bay is by much the best. We guess’d there had been Ships there, but that they were gone on sight of us. We sent our Yall ashore about Noon, with Capt. _Dover_, Mr. _Frye_, and six Men, all arm’d; mean while we and the _Dutchess_ kept turning to get in, and such heavy Flaws came off the Land, that we were forc’d to let fly our Topsail-Sheet, keeping all Hands to stand by our Sails, for fear of the Wind’s carrying ’em away: but when the Flaws were gone, we had little or no Wind. These Flaws proceeded from the Land, which is very high in the middle of the Island. Our Boat did not return, so we sent our Pinnace with the Men arm’d, to see what was the occasion of the Yall’s stay; for we were afraid that the _Spaniards_ had a Garison there, and might have seiz’d ’em. We put out a Signal for our Boat, and the _Dutchess_ show’d a _French_ Ensign. Immediately our Pinnace returned from the shore, and brought abundance of Craw-fish, with a Man cloth’d in Goat-Skins, who look’d wilder than the first Owners of them. He had been on the Island four Years and four Months, being left there by Capt. _Stradling_ in the _Cinque-Ports_; his Name was _Alexander Selkirk_ a _Scotch_ Man, who had been Master of the _Cinque-Ports_, a Ship that came here last with Capt. _Dampier_, who told me that this was the best Man in her; so I immediately agreed with him to be a Mate on board our Ship. ’Twas he that made the Fire last night when he saw our Ships, which he judg’d to be _English_. During his stay here, he saw several Ships pass by, but only two came in to anchor. As he went to view them, he found ’em to be _Spaniards_, and retir’d from ’em; upon which they shot at him. Had they been _French_, he would have submitted; but chose to risque his dying alone on the Island, rather than fall into the hands of the _Spaniards_ in these parts, because he apprehended they would murder him, or make a Slave of him in the Mines, for he fear’d they would spare no Stranger that might be capable of discovering the _South-Sea_. The _Spaniards_ had landed, before he knew what they were, and they came so near him that he had much ado to escape; for they not only shot at him but pursu’d him into the Woods, where he climb’d to the top of a Tree, at the foot of which they made water, and kill’d several Goats just by, but went off again without discovering him. He told us that he was born at _Largo_ in the County of _Fife_ in _Scotland_, and was bred a Sailor from his Youth. The reason of his being left here was a difference betwixt him and his Captain; which, together with the Ships being leaky, made him willing rather to stay here, than go along with him at first; and when he was at last willing, the Captain would not receive him. He had been in the Island before to wood and water, when two of the Ships Company were left upon it for six Months till the Ship return’d, being chas’d thence by two _French South-Sea_ Ships.

[Sidenote: _Account of Alexander Selkirk._]

He had with him his Clothes and Bedding, with a Firelock, some Powder, Bullets, and Tobacco, a Hatchet, a Knife, a Kettle, a Bible, some practical Pieces, and his Mathematical Instruments and Books. He diverted and provided for himself as well as he could; but for the first eight months had much ado to bear up against Melancholy, and the Terror of being left alone in such a desolate place. He built two Hutts with Piemento Trees, cover’d them with long Grass, and lin’d them with the Skins of Goats, which he kill’d with his Gun as he wanted, so long as his Powder lasted, which was but a pound; and that being near spent, he got fire by rubbing two sticks of Piemento Wood together upon his knee. In the lesser Hutt, at some distance from the other, he dress’d his Victuals, and in the larger he slept, and employ’d himself in reading, singing Psalms, and praying; so that he said he was a better Christian while in this Solitude than ever he was before, or than, he was afraid, he should ever be again. At first he never eat any thing till Hunger constrain’d him, partly for grief and partly for want of Bread and Salt; nor did he go to bed till he could watch no longer: the Piemento Wood, which burnt very clear, serv’d him both for Firing and Candle, and refresh’d him with its fragrant Smell.

He might have had Fish enough, but could not eat ’em for want of Salt, because they occasion’d a Looseness; except Crawfish, which are there as large as our Lobsters, and very good: These he sometimes boil’d, and at other times broil’d, as he did his Goats Flesh, of which he made very good Broth, for they are not so rank as ours: he kept an Account of 500 that he kill’d while there, and caught as many more, which he mark’d on the Ear and let go. When his Powder fail’d, he took them by speed of foot; for his way of living and continual Exercise of walking and running, clear’d him of all gross Humours, so that he ran with wonderful Swiftness thro the Woods and up the Rocks and Hills, as we perceiv’d when we employ’d him to catch Goats for us. We had a Bull-Dog, which we sent with several of our nimblest Runners, to help him in catching Goats; but he distanc’d and tir’d both the Dog and the Men, catch’d the Goats, and brought ’em to us on his back. He told us that his Agility in pursuing a Goat had once like to have cost him his Life; he pursu’d it with so much Eagerness that he catch’d hold of it on the brink of a Precipice, of which he was not aware, the Bushes having hid it from him; so that he fell with the Goat down the said Precipice a great height, and was so stun’d and bruis’d with the Fall, that he narrowly escap’d with his Life, and when he came to his Senses, found the Goat dead under him. He lay there about 24 hours, and was scarce able to crawl to his Hutt, which was about a mile distant, or to stir abroad again in ten days.

He came at last to relish his Meat well enough without Salt or Bread, and in the Season had plenty of good Turnips, which had been sow’d there by Capt. _Dampier_’s Men, and have now overspread some Acres of Ground. He had enough of good Cabbage from the Cabbage-Trees, and season’d his Meat with the Fruit of the Piemento Trees, which is the same as the _Jamaica_ Pepper, and smells deliciously. He found there also a black Pepper call’d _Malagita_, which was very good to expel Wind, and against Griping of the Guts.

He soon wore out all his Shoes and Clothes by running thro the Woods; and at last being forc’d to shift without them, his Feet became so hard, that he run every where without Annoyance: and it was some time before he could wear Shoes after we found him; for not being us’d to any so long, his Feet swell’d when he came first to wear ’em again.

After he had conquer’d his Melancholy, he diverted himself sometimes by cutting his Name on the Trees, and the Time of his being left and Continuance there. He was at first much pester’d with Cats and Rats, that had bred in great numbers from some of each Species which had got ashore from Ships that put in there to wood and water. The Rats gnaw’d his Feet and Clothes while asleep, which oblig’d him to cherish the Cats with his Goats-flesh; by which many of them became so tame, that they would lie about him in hundreds, and soon deliver’d him from the Rats. He likewise tam’d some Kids, and to divert himself would now and then sing and dance with them and his Cats: so that by the Care of Providence and Vigour of his Youth, being now but about 30 years old, he came at last to conquer all the Inconveniences of his Solitude, and to be very easy. When his Clothes wore out, he made himself a Coat and Cap of Goat-Skins, which he stitch’d together with little Thongs of the same, that he cut with his Knife. He had no other Needle but a Nail; and when his Knife was wore to the back, he made others as well as he could of some Iron Hoops that were left ashore, which he beat thin and ground upon Stones. Having some Linen Cloth by him, he sow’d himself Shirts with a Nail, and stitch’d ’em with the Worsted of his old Stockings, which he pull’d out on purpose. He had his last Shirt on when we found him in the Island.

At his first coming on board us, he had so much forgot his Language for want of Use, that we could scarce understand him, for he seem’d to speak his words by halves. We offer’d him a Dram, but he would not touch it, having drank nothing but Water since his being there, and ’twas some time before he could relish our Victuals.

He could give us an account of no other Product of the Island than what we have mention’d, except small black Plums, which are very good, but hard to come at, the Trees which bear ’em growing on high Mountains and Rocks. Piemento Trees are plenty here, and we saw some of 60 foot high, and about two yards thick; and Cotton Trees higher, and near four fathom round in the Stock.

[Sidenote: _In the Road of Juan Fernandez._]

The Climate is so good, that the Trees and Grass are verdant all the Year. The Winter lasts no longer than _June_ and _July_, and is not then severe, there being only a small Frost and a little Hail, but sometimes great Rains. The Heat of the Summer is equally moderate, and there’s not much Thunder or tempestuous Weather of any sort. He saw no venomous or savage Creature on the Island, nor any other sort of Beast but Goats, &c. as above-mention’d; the first of which had been put ashore here on purpose for a Breed by _Juan Fernando_ a _Spaniard_, who settled there with some Families for a time, till the Continent of _Chili_ began to submit to the _Spaniards_; which being more profitable, tempted them to quit this Island, which is capable of maintaining a good number of People, and of being made so strong that they could not be easily dislodg’d.

_Ringrose_[123] in his Account of Capt. _Sharp_’s Voyage and other Buccaneers, mentions one who had escap’d ashore here out of a Ship which was cast away with all the rest of the Company, and says he liv’d five years alone before he had the opportunity of another Ship to carry him off. Capt. _Dampier_ talks of a _Moskito Indian_ that belong’d to Capt. _Watlin_,[124] who being a hunting in the Woods when the Captain left the Island, liv’d here three years alone, and shifted much in the same manner as Mr. _Selkirk_ did, till Capt. _Dampier_ came hither in 1684, and carry’d him off. The first that went ashore was one of his Countrymen, and they saluted one another first by prostrating themselves by turns on the ground, and then embracing. But whatever there is in these Stories, this of Mr. _Selkirk_ I know to be true; and his Behaviour afterwards gives me reason to believe the Account he gave me how he spent his time, and bore up under such an Affliction, in which nothing but the Divine Providence could have supported any Man. By this one may see that Solitude and Retirement from the World is not such an unsufferable State of Life as most Men imagine, especially when People are fairly call’d or thrown into it unavoidably, as this Man was; who in all probability must otherwise have perish’d in the Seas, the Ship which left him being cast away not long after, and few of the Company escap’d. We may perceive by this Story the Truth of the Maxim, That Necessity is the Mother of Invention, since he found means to supply his Wants in a very natural manner, so as to maintain his Life, tho not so conveniently, yet as effectually as we are able to do with the help of all our Arts and Society. It may likewise instruct us, how much a plain and temperate way of living conduces to the Health of the Body and the Vigour of the Mind, both which we are apt to destroy by Excess and Plenty, especially of strong Liquor, and the Variety as well as the Nature of our Meat and Drink: for this Man, when he came to our ordinary Method of Diet and Life, tho he was sober enough, lost much of his Strength and Agility. But I must quit these Reflections, which are more proper for a Philosopher and Divine than a Mariner, and return to my own Subject.

We did not get to anchor till six at night, on _Febr._ 1. and then it fell calm: we row’d and tow’d into the Anchor-ground about a mile off shore, 45 fathom Water, clean Ground; the Current sets mostly along shore to the Southward. This Morning we clear’d up Ship, and bent our Sails, and got them ashore to mend, and make Tents for our sick Men. The Governour (tho we might as well have nam’d him the Absolute Monarch of the Island) for so we call’d Mr. _Selkirk_, caught us two Goats, which make excellent Broth, mix’d with Turnip-Tops and other Greens, for our sick Men, being 21 in all, but not above two that we account dangerous; the _Dutchess_ has more Men sick, and in a worse condition than ours.

[Sidenote: _In the Road of Juan Fernandez._]

_Febr. 3._ Yesterday in the Afternoon we got as many of our Men ashore as could be spar’d from clearing and fitting our Ship, to wood and water. Our Sail-makers are all mending our Sails, and I lent the _Dutchess_ one to assist them. This Morning we got our Smiths Forge put up ashore, set our Coopers to work in another place, and made a little Tent for my self to have the Benefit of the Shore. The _Dutchess_ has also a Tent for their sick Men; so that we have a little Town of our own here, and every body is employ’d. A few Men supply us all with Fish of several sorts, all very good; as Silver-fish, Rock-fish, Pollock, Cavallos, Oldwives, and Craw-fish in such abundance, that in a few hours we could take as many as would serve some hundreds of Men. There were Sea-Fowls in the Bay as large as Geese, but eat fish. The Governour never fail’d of getting us two or three Goats a day for our sick Men, by which with the help of the Greens and the Goodness of the Air they recover’d very fast of the Scurvy, which was their general Distemper. ’Twas very pleasant ashore among the green Piemento Trees, which cast a refreshing Smell. Our House was made by putting up a Sail round four of ’em, and covering it a-top with another Sail; so that Capt. _Dover_ and I both thought it a very agreeable Seat, the Weather being neither too hot nor too cold.

We spent our time till the 10_th_ in refitting our Ships, taking Wood on board, and laying up Water, that which we brought from _England_ and _St. Vincent_ being spoil’d by the badness of the Casks. We likewise boil’d up about 80 Gallons of Sea-Lions Oil, as we might have done several Tuns, had we been provided with Vessels, _&c._ We refin’d and strain’d it for the use of our Lamps and to save our Candles, tho Sailors sometimes use it to fry their Meat, when straiten’d for want of Butter, _&c._ and say ’tis agreeable enough. The Men who work’d ashore on our Rigging eat young Seals, which they prefer’d to our Ships Victuals, and said was as good as _English_ Lamb; tho for my own part I should have been glad of such an Exchange.

We made what haste we could to get all Necessaries on board, being willing to lose no time; for we were inform’d at the _Canaries_ that five stout _French_ Ships were coming together to these Seas.

_Febr. 11._ Yesterday in the Evening having little or nothing to do with the Pinnance, we sent her to the South End of the Island to get Goats. The Governour told us, that during his stay he could not get down to that end from the Mountains where he liv’d, they were so steep and rocky; but that there were abundance of Goats there, and that part of the Island was plainer. Capt. _Dampier_, Mr. _Glendal_, and the Governour, with ten Men, set out in company with the _Dutchess_’s Boat and Crew, and surrounded a great parcel of Goats, which are of a larger sort, and not so wild as those on the higher part of the Island where the Governour liv’d; but not looking well to ’em, they escap’d over the Cliff: so that instead of catching above a hundred, as they might easily have done with a little precaution, they return’d this Morning with only 16 large ones, tho they saw above a thousand. If any Ships come again to this Island, the best way is to keep some Men and Dogs at that part of the Island, and sending a Boat to them once in 24 hours they may victual a good Body of Men; and no doubt but amongst those Goats they may find some hundreds with Mr. _Selkirk_’s Ear-mark.[125]

_Febr. 12._ This Morning we bent the remaining Sails, got the last Wood and Water aboard, brought off our Men, and got every thing ready to depart. The Island of _Juan Fernandez_ is nearest of a triangular form, about 12 Leagues round; the South-west side is much the longest, and has a small Island about a mile long lying near it, with a few visible Rocks close under the shore of the great Island. On this side begins a Ridge of high Mountains that run cross from the S W to the N W of the Island; and the Land that lies out in a narrow Point to the Westward, appears to be the only level Ground here. On the N E. side ’tis very high Land, and under it are the two Bays where Ships always put in to recruit. The best Bay is next the middle on this side the Island, which is to be known at a distance by the highest Table Mountain right over this Bay. You may anchor as near as you will to the shore, and the nearer the better. The best Road is on the Larboard side of the Bay, and nearest the Eastermost Shore: provided you get well in, you cannot mistake the Road. The other Bay is plain to be seen under the North end, but not so good for Wood, Water, or Landing, nor so safe for riding. In this Bay, where we rode, there’s plenty of good Water and Wood: the best Water is in a small Cove about a good Musket-shot to the Eastward of the place I have describ’d. You may ride from a Mile to a Bow-shot off the Shore, being all deep Water and bold, without any danger round the Island, but what is visible and very near in. This Bay where we rode is open to near half the Compass; the Eastermost Land in sight bore E by S. dist. about a mile and a half, and the outermost Northwest Point of the Island lies something without our Bay, and bears N W by W. dist. a good League. We were about a mile off the Shore, and had 45 fathom Water, clean sandy Ground; we design’d to have ran farther in, and new moor’d, but Mr. _Selkirk_ inform’d us that this Month proves the fairest in the Year, and that during Winter and Summer, the

[Sidenote: _Account of Juan Fernandez._]

whole time he was here, he seldom knew the Wind to blow off from the Sea, but only in small Breezes that never brought in a Sea, nor held two hours: but he warn’d us to be on our guard against the Wind off shore, which blew very strong sometimes. The Bay is all deep Water, and you may carry in Ships close to the Rocks, if occasion require. The Wind blows always over the Land, and at worst along shore, which makes no Sea. It’s for the most part calm at night, only now and then a Flaw blows from the high Land over us. Near the Rocks there are very good Fish of several sorts, particularly large Craw-fish under the Rocks easy to be caught; also Cavallies, Gropers, and other good Fish in so great plenty any where near the Shore, that I never saw the like, but at the best fishing Season in _Newfoundland_. Piemento is the best Timber, and most plentiful on this side the Island, but very apt to split till a little dry’d: we cut the longest and cleanest to split for Fire-wood. The Cabbage-Trees abound about three miles in the Woods, and the Cabbage very good; most of ’em are on the tops of the nearest and lowest Mountains. In the first Plain we found store of Turnip-Greens, and Water-Cresses in the Brooks, which mightily refresh’d our Men, and cleans’d ’em from the Scurvey: the Turnips, Mr. _Selkirk_ told us, are good in our Summer Months, which is Winter here; but this being Autumn, they are all run to Seed, so that we can’t have the benefit of any thing but the Greens. The Soil is a loose black Earth, the Rocks very rotten, so that without great care it’s dangerous to climb the Hills for Cabbages: besides, there are abundance of Holes dug in several places by a sort of Fowls like Puffins, which fall in at once, and endanger the wrenching or breaking of a Man’s Leg. Mr. _Selkirk_ tells me, in _July_ he has seen Snow and Ice here; but the Spring, which is in _September_, _October_, and _November_, is very pleasant, when there’s abundance of good Herbs, as Parsly, Purslain, Sithes in great plenty, besides an Herb found by the water-side, which prov’d very useful to our Surgeons for Fomentations; ’tis not much unlike Feverfew, of a very grateful Smell like Balm, but of a stronger and more cordial Scent: ’tis in great plenty near the Shore. We gather’d many large Bundles of it, dry’d ’em in the shade, and sent ’em on board, besides great quantities that we carry’d in every Morning to strow the Tents, which tended much to the speedy Recovery of our sick Men, of whom none died but two belonging to the _Dutchess_, viz. _Edward Wilts_ and _Christopher Williams_.

Mr. _Selkirk_ tells me, that in _November_ the Seals come ashore to whelp and ingender, when the Shore is so full of them for a stone’s throw, that ’tis impossible to pass thro them; and they are so surly, that they’l not move out of the way, but like an angry Dog run at a Man, tho he have a good Stick to beat them: so that at this and their whelping Seasons ’tis dangerous to come near them, but at other times they’l make way for a Man; and if they did not, ’twould be impossible to get up from the Water-side: they lin’d the Shore very thick for above half a mile of ground all round the Bay. When we came in, they kept a continual noise day and night, some bleeting like Lambs, some howling like Dogs or Wolves, others making hideous noises of various sorts; so that we heard ’em aboard, tho a mile from the Shore. Their Fur is the finest that ever I saw of the kind, and exceeds that of our Otters.

[Sidenote: _In the Road of Juan Fernandez._]

Another strange Creature here is the Sea-Lion: The Governour tells me he has seen of them above 20 foot long and more in compass, which could not weigh less than two Tun weight. I saw several of these vast Creatures, but none of the above-mention’d Size; several of ’em were upward of 16 foot long, and more in bulk, so that they could not weigh less than a Tun weight. The Shape of their Body differs little from the Sea-Dogs or Seals, but have another sort of Skin, a Head much bigger in proportion, and very large Mouths, monstrous big Eyes, and a Face like that of a Lion, with very large Whiskers, the Hair of which is stiff enough to make Tooth-pickers. These Creatures come ashore to engender the latter end of _June_, and stay till the end of _September_; during all which time they lie on the Land, and are never observ’d to go to the Water, but lie in the same place above a Musket-shot from the Water-side, and have no manner of Sustenance all that time that he could observe. I took notice of some that lay a week, without once offering to move out of the place whilst I was there, till they were disturb’d by us; but we saw few in comparison of what he informs us he did, and that the Shore was all crouded full of them a Musket-shot into the Land. I admire how these Monsters come to yield such a quantity of Oil. Their Hair is short and coarse, and their Skin thicker than the thickest Ox-Hide I ever saw. We found no Land-Bird on the Island, but a sort of Black-Bird with a red Breast, not unlike our _English_ Black-Birds; and the Humming Bird of various Colours, and no bigger than a large Humble Bee. Here is a small Tide which flows uncertain, and the Spring-Tide flows about seven foot.

I shall not trouble the Reader with the Descriptions of this Island given by others, wherein there are many Falshoods; but the Truth of this I can assert from my own knowledg. Nor shall I insert the Description of the Cabbage and Piemento Trees, being so well known and so frequently done, that there’s no manner of need for it. I have insisted the longer upon this Island, because it might be at first of great use to those who would carry on any Trade to the _South-Sea._

_Febr. 13._ At a Committee held on board the _Dutchess_ the 13_th_ of _February_, 170-8/9, it was agreed as follows:

“Resolv’d to steer from _Juan Fernandez_ N E by E. for the Land; and when come within six Leagues of the Shore, to keep that distance, steering along Shore to the Northward.

“The next Place we design’d to stop at, to build our Boats and land our Men, is the Island of _Lobos de la Mar_. In case of losing Company, to wait for each other 20 Leagues to the Northward of the place where we accounted we were when we separated.

“Then to lie at six Leagues distance from the Shore the space of four days, and to proceed with an easy Sail for _Lobos_, in case of not meeting; taking special care of the Rocks call’d _Ormigos_, lying about that distance off from _Callo_, the Sea-port of the City of _Lima_.

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A Cruising Voyage Around the WorldChapter VII: Part 7

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