Skip to content

Chapter XVI: Part 16

Text size

_Jan. 10._ I now go on with my Journal, being on our Departure from _California_, and returning to _Great Britain_. I shall not trouble the Reader with every Day’s particular Transactions in this long and tedious Passage, but only take notice of such Occurrences as are worth remark, and to satisfy the Curious, shall subjoin a particular Table of each Day’s Run, with the Latitude, Longtitude and Variation betwixt Cape _St. Lucas_ on _California_, and _Guam_, one of the _Ladrones_ Islands. We resolved to keep an exact Account of the Distance and Variation not being certainly known to us from any former Voyagers.

_Jan. 11._ We weigh’d from Port _Segura_ last Night, but were becalm’d under the Shore till the 12_th_ in the Afternoon, when there sprung up a Breeze, which soon run us out of sight of the Land. We took our Departure from Cape _St. Lucas_, which bore N. by E. at 12 a Clock, distant about 15 Leagues. We were forc’d to go away with little or no Refreshment, having but 3 or 4 Fowls, and a very slender Stock of Liquor, which we got out of the _Batchelor_. Several of our Men were in a weak Condition, besides my self, Mr. _Vanbrugh_, and the rest that were wounded. We were forc’d to allow but 1 Pound and half of Flower, and 1 small Piece of Meat to 5 in a Mess, with 3 Pints of Water a Man for 24 Hours, for Drink and Dressing their Victuals. We struck down 10 of our Guns into the Hold, to ease the Ship; for being out of the way of Enemies, they are altogether useless betwixt this and the _East Indies_. On the 16_th_ the _Batchelor_ made a Signal to give us some Bread, they having found a good Quantity of Bread and Sweet-meats aboard her, but little of Flesh-kind: We had 1000 Weight of Bread for our Share, the _Dutchess_ as much, and the _Marquiss_ 500 Weight; in lieu of which we sent back to the Prize 2 Casks of Flower, one of _English_ Beef, and one of Pork, they having but 45 Days Provision aboard in Flesh. This Morning _Thomas Conner_, a Boy, fell overboard, but the Launch being a-stern, we cut her Moarings, and took him up just as he was tired with Swimming, and ready to sink.

On the 26_th_ in the Morning the Water was very much discolour’d, at which being surprized, we immediately sounded, but found no Ground. We spoke with the _Dutchess_, and agreed to go away W.S.W. till we got into the Lat. of 13°, because our _Spanish_ Pilot told us it was dangerous going in 14, by reason of Islands and Shoals, where a _Spanish_ Vessel was lost some time ago, ever since which the _Manila_ Ship, in her Return from _Acapulco_, runs in Lat. 13. and keeps that Parallel till they make the Island of _Guam_.

On the 28_th_ the Steward missing some Pieces of Pork, we immediately search’d, and found the Thieves, one of ’em had been guilty before, and forgiven, on promise of Amendment, but was punish’d now, lest Forbearance should encourage the rest to follow this bad Practice; Provisions being so short, and our Run so long, may prove of ill consequence. I order’d ’em to the Main Jeers, and every Man of the Watch to give ’em a Blow with a Cat of Nine-tails, and their Messmates being privy to the Theft, were put in Irons.

_Feb. 1._ We buried one _Boyce_, betwixt 40 and 50 Years of Age, whom we brought from _Guiaquil_, where and in other Parts of _New Spain_ he had been a Prisoner above 7 Years, since he was taken in the Bay of _Campeachy_.

On the 5_th_ a Negro we named _Deptford_ died, who being very much addicted to stealing of Provisions, his Room was more acceptable than his Company at this time. On the 6_th_ we spoke with the _Dutchess_; I was for augmenting the Mens Allowance in Meat, since we had such a favourable Gale, which was like to continue; but Capt. _Courtney_ objected against it, alledging that if we miss’d _Guam_, we should all be starved; so we deferr’d it a Week longer. We have had very bad luck in fishing hitherto, having took only one Albicore since we came from Cape _St. Lucas_.

[Sidenote: _Arrival at the Island of Guam._]

On the 11_th_ I agreed with Capt. _Courtney_ to continue a W. by S. Course till we get clear of the Rocks call’d the _Bartholomews_, which are laid down in 13° and a half; but the Distance of them being variously computed, makes us the more cautious, and keep a constant good Look-out. On the 13_th_ the _Spanish_ Pilot we took in the _Batchelor_ died; we kept him, thinking he might be of use to us, if he recover’d of his Wounds; but he was shot in the Throat with a Musket-ball, which lodg’d so deep, the Doctors could not come at it. On the 14_th_ we agreed with Capt. _Courtney_ to give half a Pound of Flower or Bread more to a Mess. That same Day, in Commemoration of the ancient Custom in _England_ of chusing _Valentines_, I drew up a List of the fair Ladies in _Bristol_, that were any ways related to or concern’d in the Ships, and sent for my Officers into the Cabbin, where every one drew, and drank the Lady’s Health in a Cup of Punch, and to a happy Sight of ’em all; this I did to put ’em in mind of Home. On the 17_th_ I was troubled with a swelling in my Throat, which incommoded me very much, till this Morning I got out a Piece of my Jaw Bone that lodg’d there since I was wounded. Our Ship began to make more Water, so we clapt on a new Bonnet where we took the old one off; but after many fruitless Attempts, were forc’d to keep one Pump continually going, every two Men in the Watch taking their Posts once an Hour; which Labour, with the want of sufficient Food, make our People look miserably.

On the 18_th_ we threw a Negro overboard, who died of a Consumption and Want together. Our Men began to be very much out of order, and what adds to their Weakness is our continual Pumping, nor can we pretend to make any further Addition to their Allowance.

On the 25_th_ _Tho. Williams_, a _Welch_ Taylor, died; he was shot in the Leg at engaging the 2_d_ _Manila_ Ship, and being of a weak Constitution, fell into a Dysentery, which kill’d him. On the 26_th_ we caught a Couple of fine Dolphins, which were very acceptable to us, having had but very indifferent Luck of Fish in this long Passage.

On _March_ the 3_d_ we buried a Negro call’d _Augustine_, who died of the Scurvy and Dropsy. We agree to give 6 Negroes the same Allowance as five of our own Men, which will but just keep those that are in health alive.

On the 10_th_ we made Land, being the Island _Serpana_, which bore N.W. distant about 8 Leagues. The _Dutchess_ made another Island to the Westward, which bore W. by S. distant about 10 Leagues; the latter they took to be the Island _Guam_, so we clapt upon a Wind, and stood for it.

_March 11._ This Morning we had sight of both Islands, the Northermost bearing N.N.W. distant about 7 Leagues, and the Body of the Westermost W.S.W. 5 Leagues. The _Spaniards_ say there is a great Shoal between these Islands, but nearest to _Serpana_. We ran along the Shore, being satisfied it was the Island of _Guam_, from whence there came several flying Prows to look at the Ships; they run by us very swift, but none would venture aboard. At Noon the Westermost part of the Island bore West, and at the same time we made a small low Island joining to _Guam_, with a Shoal between it and _Guam_; the Island appear’d green and very pleasant, off of it there runs a Spit of Sand to the Southward, but keeping it a good Birth from you as you near it, there’s no Danger, being gradual Soundings to the Shoal. After we were clear of it we sprung our Luff, and stood in for the Harbour, which lies mid-way betwixt this and the North part of the Island. There came heavy Flaws of Wind off Shore, sometimes for us, and at other times against us; but we got to an Anchor in the Afternoon in 12 Fathom Water, about half a Mile off Shore, where there was a little Village. The small Island to the Southward bore South of us, distant about 3 Leagues, and another small one to the Northward bore N. N. W. about 2 Leagues. The Necessity of our stopping at these Islands to get a Refreshment of Provisions, was very great, our Sea Store being almost exhausted, and what we had left was very ordinary, especially our Bread and Flower, which was not enough for 14 Days at the shortest Allowance. In order to recruit quietly, we endeavour’d to get some of the Natives aboard that were in the Prows, to keep ’em as Hostages in case of sending any of our Men to the Governour: One of ’em, as we were turning into the Harbour with _Spanish_ Colours, came under our Stern. There were 2 _Spaniards_ in the Boat, who asked what we were, and from whence we came? Being answer’d in _Spanish_, that we were Friends, and came from _New Spain_, they willingly came aboard, and ask’d if we had any Letter to the Governour? We had one ready, but before we could get it signed by all the Commanders, there came a Messenger from the Governour, who demanded the same Account of us. We immediately sent him away with 2 of our Linguists, detaining one of the _Spaniards_ till they return’d. The Letter was thus:

_S I R_,

[Sidenote: _At the Island of Guam._]

_We being Servants to Her Majesty of_ Great Britain, _and stopping
at these Islands in our Way to the_ East Indies, _will not molest
the Settlement, provided you deal friendly by us. We will pay for
whatever Provisions and Refreshments you have to spare, in such
manner as best agrees with your Conveniency, either in Money, or
any Necessaries you want. But if after this civil Request you deny
us, and do not act like a Man of Honour, you may immediately expect
such Military Treatment, as we are with ease able to give you. This
we thought fit to confirm under our Hands, recommending to you our
Friendship and kind Treatment, which we hope you’ll esteem, and
assure your self we then shall be with the strictest Honour_,

_Your Friends and humble Servants_,

To the Honourable Governour of the Island of _Guam, March 23. 1709_

W. Rogers.
S. Courtney.
E. Cooke.

_March 11._ In the Morning we and the _Dutchess_ mann’d our Pinnace, and sent her ashore with a Flag of Truce, where they were entertained curteously by the Natives, who promis’d to supply us with such Provisions as they could spare, provided the Governour would give ’em leave. About Noon our Linguist return’d, and brought with him 3 _Spanish_ Gentlemen from the Governour, who in answer to our Letter sent another, expressing all Readiness imaginable to accommodate us with what the Island afforded, and that he had sent those Gentlemen to treat with us. I immediately sent for Capt. _Dover_, _Courtney_, and _Cooke_, &c. being not able to stir out of the Ship, and desir’d they would come and consult with me how to act.

_March 13._ This Morning we had 4 Bullocks, 1 for each Ship, with some Limes, Oranges, and Cocoa Nuts. Our Misunderstandings at _California_ have been very much augmented since by our Want of Provisions, one Ship’s Company being jealous the other had most and best; but now being arriv’d at a Place of Plenty, we are all indifferently well reconciled, and an Entertainment was provided aboard the _Batchelor_ for the _Spanish_ Gentlemen, where most of our Officers appointed to meet. I being not able to move my self, was hoisted in a Chair out of the Ship, and also out of the Boat into the _Batchelor_; there we had a good Entertainment, and agreed, that on Thursday next a Representative for each Ship should wait upon the Governour, and make him a handsome Present for his Civility and Readiness to supply us.

_March 15._ This Morning we had another Entertainment aboard the _Marquiss_, where I likewise went in the same manner as before.

_March 16._ This Morning our Pinnace went with several of our Officers to accept of the Governour’s Invitation ashore, who received them with all imaginable Friendship and Respect, having near 200 Men drawn up in Arms at their Landing, and the Officers and Clergy of the Island to conduct them to the Governour’s House, which was a very handsome Seat, considering where we are: They entertain’d them with at least sixty Dishes of several sorts, the best could be got on the Island, and when they took their Leaves, each fired a Volley of Small Arms. They presented the Governour, according as we had agreed, with 2 Negro Boys dress’d in Liveries, 20 Yards of Scarlet Cloth-Serge, and 6 Pieces of Cambrick, which he seem’d wonderfully pleas’d with, and promis’d to assist us in whatever lay in his Power.

_March 17._ This Day we got our Dividend, being about 60 Hogs, 99 Fowls, 24 Baskets of _Indian_ Corn, and 14 Bags of Rice, 44 Baskets of Yams, and 800 Cocoa Nuts.

_March 18._ There was an Entertainment aboard us to day, where we had most of our Officers, and 4 _Spanish_ Gentlemen from the Governour. I made ’em as welcome as Time and Place would afford, diverting ’em with Musick, and our Sailors Dancing till Night, when we parted very friendly. We got some more Bullocks on board, being small lean Cattle, but what we gladly accepted of; each Ship had 14 in all.

_March 20._ This Morning each Ship had 2 Cows and Calves more, being the last we are like to get. We had a Meeting on board the _Marquiss_, where ’twas agreed to make a handsome Present to the Governour’s Deputy, who had the Fatigue to get our Provisions together, wherein he us’d all possible dispatch. We gave him and the rest of the Gentlemen what they esteem’d double the Value of what we received of them, which they certify’d under their Hands, and that we had been very civil to them. We also gave them the like Certificate, sign’d by all our Officers, to shew to any _English_ that might have occasion to recruit there, and parted very friendly. Having finish’d that Affair, it was agreed, that we should steer from hence a West and by South Course to go clear of some Islands that lie in our way, and then thought it proper to steer directly for the South East part of _Mindanao_, and from thence the clearest Way to _Ternate_. It was also agreed, that our Ship being very leaky, I should deliver to Capt. _Courtney_ one Chest of Plate and Money, to be put on board the _Dutchess_.

[Sidenote: _The Island of Guam Described._]

_March 21._ At Break of Day we hoisted our Colours, and fired a Gun for our Consorts to unmoar. In the meantime, with the Consent of the other Officers I put an old _Spaniard_ ashore, call’d _Ant. Gomes Figuero_, whom we took in the 1_st_ Bark in the _South Seas_, and design’d to carry him to _Great Britain_, to condemn all our Prizes took there; but he being now in all appearance not likely to live, we agreed to dismiss him, he giving us a Certificate that he saw us attack and take several Prizes, all Subjects to _Philip_ V. King of _Spain_, &c. I gave him some Clothes and other odd things to help him in his Sickness, then put him ashore to the Deputy Governour, and the rest of the _Spanish_ Officers, who gave us a Certificate, that they receiv’d such a Person.

I shall here give a Description of the Isle of _Guam_.

_The Island of_ Guam _Describ’d_

This Island is about 40 Leagues round; the Anchoring Place is on the W. Side, and about the Middle there’s a large Cove, with several Houses built after the _Spanish_ Mode, with Accommodations for the Officers and Crew of the _Acapulco_ Ship, the Settlement being made here on purpose for that Ship to recruit at, in her Way to _Manila_. There are about 300 _Spaniards_ on this and the Neighbouring Islands; most of the Natives are their Converts. They told us they have 8 Fathers, 6 of whom teach School, besides performing their Offices as Clergymen. They have also Schools taught by _Mullattoes_ and _Indians_, who have learn’d the Language, so that most of the Natives understand _Spanish_. The _Spaniards_ inform me, that there’s a Range of Islands from hence to _Japan_. Among which there are several abound with Gold, and they were now building a small Vessel to discover them, in order to get a Trade.

The Island of _Guam_ it self abounds with Oranges, Lemons, Citrons, Musk and Water Melons, which were brought hither by the _Spaniards_. The Orange Trees thrive very well here. The Island is full of Hills and Dales, and Streams of good Water. They have Plenty of Cattle, but small, poor, and generally white. The _Indico_ Plant grows wild in such Abundance, that were they industrious, and had Coppers to boil it up, they might have great Quantities of that Commodity; but being so remote and out of the Way of Trade, they make no Use of it, nor do they improve any thing but what contributes to their present Subsistance; and having that, they are easie. Money is of so little Use, and so scarce among them, that they could not raise 1000 Dollars in the whole Island to purchase Commodities from us, which they would gladly have done. Here are about 200 Soldiers, who receive their Pay from _Manila_ by a small Ship once _per Ann._ This Ship brings them Cloaths, Sugar, Rice, and Liquor, for which she carries back most of the Money again. This has made them of late sow Rice in their Valleys, and make other Improvements. They abound with Hogs, which are the best Pork in the World, because they feed altogether on Cocoa-Nutts, and Bread-Fruit, which are plentiful here; and were not the _Spaniards_ slothful, they might have most Necessaries of their own Growth for the Maintenance of Life.

Their Bread Fruit I thought the most remarkable Thing on the Island. I saw some of it which was as large as Oranges, and much resembled them. They tell me, that when ripe they are three Times as large, and grow in many other Places near the Equinox in the _East Indies_. The Leaves are almost as large as those of Figs, something like them, but of a brown Colour. The Tree is large, and they have such Plenty of this Fruit in the Season, that they fatten their Hogs with them. The Fruit has no Stone, and by the Account they gave, the Inside resembles a dry Potato or Yam, with which they likewise abound.

The Wind blows constantly a S. E. Trade here, except during the Westerly Monsoons, which last from the Middle of _June_ to the Middle of _August_.

The Governour lives on the N. side of the Island, where there’s a small Village, and a Convent, being the chief Habitation of the _Spaniards_. They marry with the Natives, and had not above four _Spanish_ Women on the Island. The _Indians_ are tall and strong, of a dark olive Colour, go all naked, except a Clout about their Posteriors, and the Women have little Petticoats. The Men are dextrous at flinging of Stones, which they make of Clay, of an oval Form, burning them, till as hard as Marble, and are so good Marks-men, that the _Spaniards_ say, they seldom miss hitting any Mark, and throw it with such a Force, as to kill a Man at a considerable Distance. I heard of no other Weapons that they used, but a Stick or Lance made of the heaviest Wood in the Island.

[Sidenote: _At the Island of Guam_.]

The Governour presented us with one of their flying Prows, which I shall describe here because of the Odness of it. The _Spaniards_ told me ’twould run 20 Leagues _per_ Hour, which I think too large; but by what I saw, I verily believe, they may run 20 Miles or more in the Time, for when they viewed our Ships, they passed by us like a Bird flying. These Prows are about 30 Foot long, not above 2 broad, and about 3 deep; they have but one Mast which stands in the Middle, with a Mat Sail, made in the Form of a Ship’s Mizen. The Yard is slung in the Middle, and a Man sits at each End with a Paddle to steer her, so that when they go about, they don’t turn the Boat as we do to bring the Wind on the other side, but only change the Sail, so that the Tack and Sheet of the Sail are used alike, and the Boat’s Head and Stern are the same, only they change them, as Occasion requires, to sail either Way; for they are so narrow that they could not bear any Sail, were it not for Booms, that run out from the Windward Side, fasten’d to a large Log shap’d like a Boat, and near half as long, which becomes contiguous to the Boat. On these Booms a Stage is made above the Water, on a Level with the Side of the Boat, upon which they carry Goods or Passengers. The greatest inconveniency in sailing these Boats is before the Wind, for by the Out-layer, which is built out on one Side, if the Wind presses any thing heavy on the contrary Side, the Boat is over-set, which often happens; having brought one of these Boats to _London_, it might be worth fitting up to put in the Canal in St. _James_’s Park for a Curiosity, since we have none like it in this Part of the World.

As soon as the Boat return’d from landing Senior _Figuro_, we put under Sail, having a fine Breeze of Wind at E.N.E. We had generally fair Weather here in the Day Time, and Showers commonly in the Night, but very sultry. The Wind always off Shoar betwixt the E. and N.E. Our Decks are filled with Cattle and Provender.

* * * * *

According to Promise, I have here inserted my Run from _California_ to _Guam_.

_A Table of each Days Run between Cape_ St. Lucas _in_ California, _and the Island of_ Guam.

[Sidenote: _A Table of Runs._]

----------+---+-------------+-------+----------+---------+-----------+----------
| | | | _Lat. by |_Long. W.|_Diff. Lon.|_Variation
1709/10 | | _Course._ |_Dist._| Reck. & | from_ | from Cape_|Easterly._
_January_ | | | |Observat._| London. | S. Lucas. |
---+---+-------------+-------+----------+---------+-----------+----------
| | | | N. | W. | W. |
12 | E | S. 22 30 W. | 45 | 22 16 | 114 09 | 00 09 | 03 00
---+---+-------------+-------+----------+---------+-----------+----------
13 | F | S. 28 00 W. | 66 | 21 18 | 114 42 | 00 42 | 02 50
---+---+-------------+-------+----------+---------+-----------+----------
14 | G | S. 33 45 W. | 54 | 20 24 | 115 15 | 01 15 | 02 50
---+---+-------------+-------+----------+---------+-----------+----------
15 | A | S. 33 45 W. | 52 | 19 25 | 115 45 | 01 45 | 02 50
---+---+-------------+-------+----------+---------+-----------+----------
16 | B | S. 33 45 W. | 68 | 18 56 | 116 24 | 02 24 | 02 45
---+---+-------------+-------+----------+---------+-----------+----------
17 | C | S. 33 45 W. | 72 | 18 00 | 117 06 | 03 06 | 02 45
---+---+-------------+-------+----------+---------+-----------+----------
18 | D | S. 35 10 W. | 41 | 17 11 | 117 30 | 03 30 | 02 15
---+---+-------------+-------+----------+---------+-----------+----------
19 | E | S. 33 45 W. | 62 | 16 32 | 118 05 | 04 05 | 02 00
---+---+-------------+-------+----------+---------+-----------+----------
20 | F | S. 43 40 W. | 68 | 15 44 | 118 54 | 04 54 | 01 50
---+---+-------------+-------+----------+---------+-----------+----------
21 | G | S. 68 00 W. | 83 | 15 00 | 120 15 | 06 15 | 01 30
---+---+-------------+-------+----------+---------+-----------+----------
22 | A | W. 06 48 S. | 94 | 14 49 | 122 05 | 08 05 | 01 10
---+---+-------------+-------+----------+---------+-----------+----------
23 | B | W. 05 20 S. | 152 | 14 36 | 124 25 | 10 25 | 00 50
---+---+-------------+-------+----------+---------+-----------+----------
24 | C | W. 04 00 S. | 142 | 14 24 | 126 45 | 12 45 | 00 40
---+---+-------------+-------+----------+---------+-----------+----------
25 | D | W. 04 10 S. | 151 | 13 14 | 129 05 | 15 05 | 00 45
---+---+-------------+-------+----------+---------+-----------+----------
26 | E | W. 05 25 S. | 147 | 13 50 | 131 23 | 17 25 | 00 50
---+---+-------------+-------+----------+---------+-----------+----------
27 | F | W. 18 50 S. | 97 | 13 29 | 132 58 | 18 58 | 01 00
---+---+-------------+-------+----------+---------+-----------+----------
28 | G | W. | 88 | 13 29 | 134 41 | 20 41 | 01 10
---+---+-------------+-------+----------+---------+-----------+----------
29 | A | W. 03 00 S. | 122 | 13 22 | 136 48 | 22 48 | 01 15
---+---+-------------+-------+----------+---------+-----------+----------
30 | B | W. 04 00 N. | 146 | 13 27 | 139 21 | 25 21 | 01 25
---+---+-------------+-------+----------+---------+-----------+----------
31 | C | W. 04 00 N. | 160 | 13 32 | 142 07 | 28 07 | 01 30
---+---+-------------+-------+----------+---------+-----------+----------
_Feb._ 1 | D | W. | 143 | 13 32 | 144 37 | 30 37 | 01 40
---+---+-------------+-------+----------+---------+-----------+----------
2 | E | W. 04 00 N. | 168 | 13 36 | 147 32 | 33 32 | 01 50
---+---+-------------+-------+----------+---------+-----------+----------
3 | F | W. 06 00 S. | 160 | 13 26 | 150 18 | 36 18 | 02 00
---+---+-------------+-------+----------+---------+-----------+----------
4 | G | W. | 156 | 13 26 | 153 02 | 39 02 | 02 10
---+---+-------------+-------+----------+---------+-----------+----------
5 | A | W. | 130 | 13 26 | 155 19 | 41 19 | 02 25
---+---+-------------+-------+----------+---------+-----------+----------
6 | B | W. | 137 | 13 26 | 157 43 | 43 43 | 02 30
---+---+-------------+-------+----------+---------+-----------+----------
7 | C | W. 02 00 S. | 161 | 13 25 | 160 31 | 46 31 | 02 50
---+---+-------------+-------+----------+---------+-----------+----------
8 | D | W. 08 00 N. | 144 | 13 41 | 163 00 | 49 00 | 03 00
---+---+-------------+-------+----------+---------+-----------+----------
9 | E | W. | 130 | 13 41 | 165 18 | 51 18 | 03 20
---+---+-------------+-------+----------+---------+-----------+----------
10 | F | W. 01 00 N. | 124 | 13 44 | 167 26 | 53 26 | 03 30
---+---+-------------+-------+----------+---------+-----------+----------
11 | G | W. 03 00 S. | 146 | 13 36 | 169 56 | 55 56 | 03 45
---+---+-------------+-------+----------+---------+-----------+----------
12 | A | W. 01 00 S. | 146 | 13 33 | 172 27 | 58 27 | 04 00
---+---+-------------+-------+----------+---------+-----------+----------
13 | B | W. 01 00 N. | 148 | 13 36 | 175 00 | 61 00 | 04 30
---+---+-------------+-------+----------+---------+-----------+----------
14 | C | W. 02 00 S. | 136 | 13 32 | 177 21 | 63 21 | 05 20
---+---+-------------+-------+----------+---------+-----------+----------
15 | D | W. 04 00 N. | 125 | 13 40 | 179 28 | 65 28 | 06 30
---+---+-------------+-------+----------+---------+-----------+----------
16 | E | W. 04 00 N. | 112 | 13 47 | 181 24 | 67 24 | 07 00
---+---+-------------+-------+----------+---------+-----------+----------
17 | F | W. 04 00 N. | 114 | 13 54 | 183 22 | 69 22 | 07 30
---+---+-------------+-------+----------+---------+-----------+----------
18 | G | W. 01 00 S. | 130 | 13 52 | 185 37 | 71 37 | 09 00
---+---+-------------+-------+----------+---------+-----------+----------
19 | A | W. 07 00 S. | 122 | 13 40 | 187 42 | 73 42 | 10 15
---+---+-------------+-------+----------+---------+-----------+----------
20 | B | W. 07 00 S. | 124 | 13 28 | 189 49 | 75 49 | 11 00
---+---+-------------+-------+----------+---------+-----------+----------
21 | C | W. 04 00 S. | 98 | 13 21 | 191 30 | 77 30 | 11 30
---+---+-------------+-------+----------+---------+-----------+----------
22 | D | W. 05 00 S. | 113 | 13 12 | 193 25 | 79 25 | 12 00
---+---+-------------+-------+----------+---------+-----------+----------
23 | E | W. 04 00 S. | 70 | 13 07 | 194 37 | 80 37 | 11 50
---+---+-------------+-------+----------+---------+-----------+----------
24 | F | W. 01 30 N. | 72 | 13 10 | 195 51 | 81 51 | 11 00
---+---+-------------+-------+----------+---------+-----------+----------
25 | G | W. 04 00 S. | 118 | 13 03 | 197 51 | 83 51 | 10 00
---+---+-------------+-------+----------+---------+-----------+----------
26 | A | W. 01 30 S. | 70 | 13 00 | 199 03 | 85 03 | 9 50
---+---+-------------+-------+----------+---------+-----------+----------
27 | B | W. 02 00 S. | 71 | 12 57 | 200 16 | 86 16 | 9 30
---+---+-------------+-------+----------+---------+-----------+----------
28 | C | W. 02 00 S. | 120 | 12 54 | 202 20 | 88 20 | 9 00
---+---+-------------+-------+----------+---------+-----------+----------
_Mar._ 1 | D | W. 02 00 N. | 108 | 12 58 | 204 12 | 90 12 | 8 40
---+---+-------------+-------+----------+---------+-----------+----------
2 | E | W. 03 00 N. | 110 | 13 04 | 206 06 | 92 06 | 8 20
---+---+-------------+-------+----------+---------+-----------+----------
3 | F | W. 01 00 N. | 84 | 13 05 | 207 33 | 93 33 | 8 00
---+---+-------------+-------+----------+---------+-----------+----------
4 | G | W. | 88 | 13 05 | 209 04 | 95 94 | 7 50
---+---+-------------+-------+----------+---------+-----------+----------
5 | A | W. 02 00 S. | 106 | 13 02 | 211 54 | 96 54 | 7 30
---+---+-------------+-------+----------+---------+-----------+----------
6 | B | W. 02 48 N. | 105 | 13 07 | 212 42 | 98 42 | 7 10
---+---+-------------+-------+----------+---------+-----------+----------
7 | C | W. | 82 | 13 07 | 214 07 | 100 07 | 7 00
---+---+-------------+-------+----------+---------+-----------+----------
8 | D | W. 03 00 S. | 78 | 13 03 | 215 28 | 101 28 | 6 50
---+---+-------------+-------+----------+---------+-----------+----------
9 | E | W. 03 00 N. | 100 | 13 08 | 217 11 | 103 11 | 6 30
---+---+-------------+-------+----------+---------+-----------+----------
10 | F | W. 06 00 N. | 74 | 13 16 | 218 27 | 104 27 | 5 40
----------+---+-------------+-------+----------+---------+-----------+----------

At 3 a Clock in the Afternoon the Island of _Guam_ bore W. by S. distant 10 Leagues.

[Sidenote: _From the Island of Guam towards Ternate._]

_1710 March 22._ At 6 last Night, the Body of the Island _Guam_ bore E. N. E. Dist. 8 Leagues, from whence we took our Departure, designing for _Ternate_, one of the _Melucca_ Islands belonging to the _Dutch_, and distant from _Guam_, about 400 Leagues. We had a fresh Gale of Wind at N. E. and N. E. by E. with fair Weather, but very sultry. Lat. 12. 45. Var. 5. 30. E.

_April 11._ Nothing remarkable has occurr’d worth noting, but that we have generally had a strong Current setting to the Northward. At Two Yesterday Afternoon we made Land, bearing S. E. distant about 5 Leagues, being a low flat Island, all green, and full of Trees. Lat. 2. 54. N. This Island is not laid down in any Sea Chart; our Ship continues very leaky.

_April 14._ Yesterday in the Afternoon we saw Land, bearing W. S. W. 12 Leagues, being very high. The Current has set to the Northward this 24 Hours very strong. Lat. 1. 54.

_April 15._ Yesterday in the Afternoon we made other Land, which bore W. N. W. distant about 10 Leagues, and suppos’d it to be the N. E. Part of _Celebes_. We saw 3 Water-Spouts; one of which had like to have broke on the _Marquiss_, but the _Dutchess_ by firing two Shot, broke it before it reach’d her. We saw a very large Tree a-float, with a Multitude of Fish about it; and 2 large Islands, the Southermost bearing S. W. distant about 8 Leagues, and the Northermost W. N. W. 7 Leagues, both being the same Land we saw Yesterday; and the latter we now suppose to be the S. E. Part of _Moratay_ [Mortai] and the other the N. Part of _Gilolo_. At Noon the Southermost Land bore S. W. by S. 10 Leagues, and the Westermost 5 Leagues. N. Lat. 02. 13.

_April 17._ We having a Westerly Gale, and the Current setting against us, we gained little Ground in turning to get about _Moratay_. We had indifferent fair Weather all Night and Morning, but standing pretty much to the Southward, lost Sight of the Land, a strong Current setting to the Northward.

_April 23._ We had very stormy Weather for most Part since the 17_th_, the _Marquiss_ and we suffer’d both in our Rigging. So that we begin to despair of getting to Windward of this Island _Moratay_, to reach _Ternate_, which is now near us; but we are obliged to keep Company with the _Marquiss_ and _Batchelor_, who sail but very indifferent upon a Wind; and it’s the hardest upon our Ship’s Company, who are wearied almost to Death with continual Pumping, the Leak having encreas’d upon us since we came out of _Guam_, so that it is as much as 4 Men are able to keep her free Half an Hour, all the Watch being oblig’d to come to it once in 4 Hours.

_April 29._ We got 292 _Lib._ Weight of Bread from the _Batchelor_ Yesterday Afternoon, in Exchange for Meat we sent ’em, which with what we had before, will last us about 20 Days, and not much longer. We begin to be very much disheartned, because Captain _Dampier_, who has been twice here, tells us, that if we can’t get _Ternate_, or find the Island _Tyla_ [Tulur], we can reach no Port or Place to recruit at, and that it will be impossible to get Provisions for us on the Coast of _New Guinea_, should we be forc’d to go thither; upon which I sent my Opinion aboard of our Consorts, and desir’d they would call a Committee, and agree how to proceed next; which they did as follows.

* * * * *

At a Committee held on Board the _Batchelor_ Frigat, _April 29,
1710_.

_It is agreed to make the best of our Way to the Island of_ Tula, _where we are in Expectation of supplying our selves with Wood, Water and Provisions, to cruize_ 10 _or_ 12 _Days for this Island, being uncertain of its Scituation; and in Case the Wind should present sooner, that we can fetch_ Ternate, _then to make the best of our Way for it; but if the Wind should not present for_ Ternate, _nor the Island_ Tula, _then, if we see Occasion, to make the best of our Way to some Port in_ Mindanao. _And for all Opportunities in going about and carrying a Light, we leave it to Captain_ Courtney _in the_ Dutchess.

_May 2._ We shaped our Course for _Ternate_ a second Time, being in all Probability to the Westward of _Gillolo_, having made by our Reckoning 3 Degrees of Longitude to the Westward of _Moratay_.

_May 3._ About 8 this Morning we made Land, which we took to be some of the Islands lying off the N. East Part of _Celebes_. It bore W. S. W. of us, distant about 15 Leagues.

_May 7._ Fair Weather till 4 this Morning, when there came up a violent Shower, with great Flashes of Lightning. At Break of Day we saw Land trending from S. E. by S. to S. S. W. which at first appear’d like 5 Islands, but after it clear’d up, we plainly perceiv’d it was one continued Land; we also saw other Lands to the Westward of that, which bore W. by S. distant about 10 Leagues, and were of Opinion, that we were got to the Eastward of _Gillolo_ a second Time. We were the more inclinable to believe this, because whenever we try’d the Current, we generally found it set to the Eastward very strong, tho’ we little thought it could have driven us so far back.

[Sidenote: _Sailing towards Gillolo, etc._]

_May 9._ Yesterday in the Afternoon all the Officers met aboard us to consult about the Land, and what Course to take; but being divided in Opinions, we defer’d coming to a Resolution, till such Time as we were better satisfy’d. We try’d the Current at 4 a Clock, when it set N. N. W. after the Rate of 20 Miles in 24 Hours. We made no other Land all Day than that we first saw, so stood on and off all Night, expecting a Gale to run in with it in the Morning, but having Calms for the most Part, and a Current setting against us, we still lost Ground, and made another round high Hummock about Noon, which bore S. E. by E. distant 8 Leagues; the Southermost Land bearing at the same Time S. by E. 7 Leagues, and the Westermost W. by S. 8 Leagues.

_May 10._ I sent the Pinnace aboard the _Marquiss_ with 12 Hogsheads and a Barrel of Water, their Stock being almost spent, and in their Way order’d ’em to speak with the _Batchelor_ and _Dutchess_, to be satisfy’d what Allowance of _Pady_ (being Rice in the Husk) their Men were at; because ours had a Notion they had more than we, I having order’d ’em but a Pound and a Quarter for 5 Men, whereas before they had two Pound. Upon Enquiry I found the Ship’s Companies far’d all alike; but to make ’em easie, agreed with Capt. _Courtney_ and the rest to make it 2 Pound again; at which Allowance we have not above 12 Days at most, being all the Bread Kind we have in the Ship.

_May 12._ We were satisfied that the many Islands and Land that we saw for these several Days was the Straights of _New Guinea_; we spoke with the _Dutchess_, who had been near that Land where we perceived the greatest Opening, and they told us the Reason of their keeping in with the Shore was with a Design to have anchored, but meeting with irregular Soundings, did not think fit to adventure it. They sent their Boat ashore to the Eastermost small Island, to see what they could meet with. We stood within a Mile and half of the Shore, when the Water began to discolour. We sounded and had 30 Fathom Water, and presently after but 6; so we went about, and stood off till the _Dutchess’s_ Boat return’d, who gave us an account that they had seen the Tracks of Turtle, and Mens Feet, with Fire-places lately made. These Islands are in the same Climate with the Spice Islands, and no doubt would produce Spice, if planted. I went on board the _Dutchess_, and agreed with Capt. _Courtney_ to send the Pinnace ashore, standing on and off with our Ships all Night. Lat. 00. 24. S. Long. 236. 25. West from _London_.

_May 13._ We kept turning to Windward this 24 Hours, betwixt the Southermost long Track of Land we made first of all, and the Islands to the Eastward of it, where we expected to find the Passage betwixt _Gillolo_ and _New Guinea_.

_May 15._ We being jealous of each other, who had the most Provisions, we this Day met aboard the _Batchelor_, and carried an Account with us of what each Ship had left, and on making a strict Rummage there, we found more Rice than we expected; so that with the shortest Allowance we may subsist at Sea above 3 Weeks longer. Each Ship’s Proportion of the Provisions we had left being weigh’d, we then return’d to our Ships in a better state than we expected.

_May 18._ We have passed several Islands, and are now in sight of what we account the Point or Cape of _New Guinea_, and the South End of _Gillolo_, which appears about 8 Leagues asunder, with some Islands near each side; we have commonly little Wind, and very verable. This being the Time that the S. East Monsoon begins, which made the Weather and Wind very uncertain. Lat. 2. S.

_May 20._ The _Dutchess_ generally kept a-head in the Night, with her Pinnace a-head of her, because the Currents are so very uncertain, and being in an unknown Track, we cannot be too careful in the Night. We are still in sight of the High Lands of _New Guinea_, and several Islands to the Northward, which we find laid down in no Draught, so we noted them as we past by. This Way into _India_ would not be half so dangerous as it is imagined, were it well known. While we had any Breeze of Wind, in the Day we towed our Prize. We made another long high Island trending from S. by E. to W.S.W. distant about 12 Leagues, and crowded along Shore to make what it was, judging it to be the Island _Ceram_. We likewise made another Island to the Northward, which bore N. by W. distant about 7 Leagues. S. Lat. 03.

_May 21._ Being close under it, I sent the Pinnace aboard the _Dutchess_ yesterday Afternoon to know what they made of the Land, and what they design’d to do; their Boat met ours, and told ’em Capt. _Dampier_ was of the same Opinion with us, that it is the Island _Ceram_.

[Sidenote: _Sailing towards the Island of Bouton._]

_May 22._ Had an ugly Gale of Wind, which drove us clear off the Island we took to be _Ceram_. Since the 18_th_ that we past the Streights of _New Guinea_, we have had a Westerly Current, but before the Current generally set to the Eastward. We have now dark gloomy Weather, with a strong Gale of Wind at S. E. and S. E. by E. runs us out of sight of all the Land. Our Ship is still very leaky, and we begin to be in the utmost want of all manner of Refreshments and Necessaries, and doubtful where to harbour or refit, the Land being unknown to us for want of good Drafts, or an experienc’d Pilot. Lat. 3. 40. S. Long. 237. 21. W. from _London_.

_May 24._ We were in expectation of making Land this Morning, being in the Latitude of the Island _Bouro_, which is about 20 Leagues to the S.W. of _Ceram_, and near the same Distance in a parallel with _Amboyna_; the latter of which we design’d to have touch’d at, had the Wind been favourable; but the S. E. Monsoon being now set in, we are almost out of hopes of fetching it, and still doubtful what Islands we pass’d by last, not agreeing whether it was _Ceram_ or _Bouro_. We found by our Observation at Noon, that we were in the Latitude of the Southermost part of _Bouro_, and the Reason of our not seeing of it we impute to the Current’s setting us to the Westward of it. S. Lat. 04. 30. Long. 237. 29. West from _Lond._

_May 25._ I spared the _Dutchess_ a But of Water, they having little or none but what they catch when it rains. We came to a Resolution to spend no more Time in search of _Bouro_, nor to wait for a Wind to carry us to _Amboyna_, but to make the best of our way for the Straights of _Bouton_, where if we arrived safe, we might get Provisions enough to carry us to _Batavia_; pursuant to which Agreement we hall’d away S.W. by S. for ’em, having a fresh Gale of Wind at East; but by 2 in the Morning we fell in with a parcel of Islands to the Eastward of _Bouton_, and had infallibly been ashore upon one of ’em, had not the Weather cleared up at once. We made a Shift, and wore the Ships, then stood off N. E. from the Land till Day-break, when we saw it trenting from S. by E. to S. W. by S. about 6 Leagues distant, which made like a fine large Bay, but as we stood in perceived an Opening, and that there were 2 Islands, with 3 lying thwart the Out-let to the Southward of both. We hoisted out our Pinnace, and sent her ashore, the _Dutchess_ did the same; from whence they brought off some Cocoa Nuts, which were very plentiful here, and told us there were _Malayan_ Inhabitants, who seem’d to be very friendly. We kept turning in with our Ships, and our Boats sounding a-head, designing to anchor, if we could find any Ground, but found none with 60 and 80 Fathom Line. We saw Land to the N.W. of us, which we took to be the Island _Bouton_, being pretty high, and distant 8 or 10 Leagues. S. Lat. 05. 00. Long. 237. 51.

_May 26._ We could get no Anchor Ground all Yesterday Afternoon, tho’ we run our Boltsprit almost ashore, and having the Current setting against us, made it a tiresome Piece of work to fetch within the reach of the Houses. At last some of the Inhabitants came off in a Canoe to our Boats, as they were sounding a-head; they brought ’em aboard, and by Signs we understood there was plenty of Provisions ashore. So I sent the Pinnace and Yawl to see what they could meet with. In the mean time came several Canoes full of _Malayans_, with Cocoa Nuts, Pumpkins, _Indian_ Corn, Fowls, _&c._ to truck with our People. Ashore they had Sheep and Black Cattle in plenty. The Officers I sent were admitted into the Presence of their King and Nobles, who were all bare-foot, and most naked, save a Clout about their Posteriors; they seem’d to be very courteous, and ready to supply us with what we wanted. We lay by and drove till Morning (having little Wind) that we might be nearer the other Ships, and resolve what to do. We found no Anchor-ground, but too near the Shore, and the Current setting strong to the S. W. and driving us out; which together with our having no Anchor-ground, if the Wind should take us out of the Sea, made us desist to attempt any farther here. We agreed to stand over for the Land to the Westward of us, the Northermost part of which bore W. N. W. distant 9 Leagues, and the Westermost W. by S. 10 Leagues. The Inhabitants call’d the Eastermost of these Islands _Vanseat_, the other next to it _Capota_, and the Westermost _Cambaver_. S. Lat. 05. 13. Long. 238. 11. W.

_May 27._ We stood from these Islands to the Westward, and ran along Shore as near as we durst, to weather the Westermost Point of Land, where we expected to find a Harbour, but as we near’d it, found a long Tract of High Land, trending to the Southward, as far as S.W. by S.

[Sidenote: _At the Island of Bouton._]

We agreed in Opinion that ’twas the Island _Bouton_, but that we had over-shot the Straights. We made Sail to see if we could discover any Land further to the Southward; but finding none, we jogg’d on, keeping the Wind as near as possible, because of the Current, which sets strong to the S.W. By 2 a Clock in the Morning we were hors’d near a small Island, that bore S. S. W. of us about 2 Leagues; but having clear Weather, we stood from it till Day-break, there being no other Land near it that we saw, except that we came from, which we had open’d 5 Points farther to the Westward. I was unwilling to act any farther without the Consent of the Committee; so the major part of us met aboard the _Dutchess_, where we agreed to stand back and make the Land plain, so as to be fully satisfied what it was, and withal to find a Recruit of Water and Wood before we proceed any farther, being in want of every thing. S. Lat. 05. 50. Long. W. from _London_, 238. 38.

_May 28._ According to Agreement we stood back, and having a fresh Breeze of Wind at East, came up with the Land, which trended from N. E. by E. to N. We stood away with the Northermost, and by 6 a Clock brought it to bear E. by N. distant about 2 Leagues, having open’d Land farther to the Northward, which made like a Bay, and trimming to the Westward as far as W. N. W. distant about 10 Leagues. We made little or no Sail all Night, because the _Batchelor_ and _Marquiss_ were a-stern, and we were not willing to run too far in with the Land in the Night. In the Morning ’twas calm, and being clear Weather, we made all the Land very plain from W. S. W. to the E. S. E. making high double Land, with Islands under it. Most of it look’d as if it was inhabited, being pretty thick of Wood, and promised fair for other Refreshments, but we could find no Anchor-ground hitherto.

_May 29._ A Breeze sprung up, and we ran farther in, keeping nearest the Southern Shore, where we open’d a sandy Spit, off which we could perceive blue Water like Shold-ground running a-cross the Bay near half a League. A little to the Westward of this we got Ground in betwixt 30 and 40 Fathom Water, with good gradual Soundings, where we let go our Anchor. The _Dutchess_ and the rest standing over to the other side of the Bay, could meet with no Ground, so they came back, and anchored by us. S. Lat. 05. 41. Long. 238. 34. W. from _London_. A little before this, our Boat we had sent returned from the Shore, having by Presents engag’d a Canoe with some _Malayans_ to come aboard with them, but for want of a _Linguist_ we were little the better. I sent to the _Batchelor_, who had one, but Capt. _Dover_ refus’d to let him come to me, altho’ he had no use for him; then I sent a second time, that I might know the best anchoring Place for our Ships, and treated the People (who were impatient to be gone) with Sweet-meats and other things they fancy’d, but could not keep ’em, or send them aboard the _Batchelor_ to secure her, seeing white Shole Water near us. But they pass’d by us in danger of running on the Sholes, not knowing the best anchoring Place, for want of the Linguist I so earnestly desir’d, to understand the _Malayans_ that had now left us. At parting they made Signs, and pointed to the Land to the Northward, which they call’d _Booloo_. Our Pilot, Capt. _Dampier_, says he has been formerly thro’ the Streights, and in his Book tells us of a Town near the South part of ’em, where the King resided, but he knew nothing of it now, except the bare Story. Upon this we agreed to send one of the Pinnaces along with him and the Linguist to find out the Town, being willing to venture him to wait on his Majesty the King of _Bouton_ to solicit for a Supply of Provisions, which we would gladly pay for; and to make the better Appearance, we sent Mr. _Vanbrugh_ and Mr. _Connely_ along with him. The Water flows here above 15 Foot; there are Places near to the Town which lie to the Northward about 6 Leagues, from whence we rode where a Ship might, on Occasion, be laid a-shoar to refit; and we should have carry’d the _Duke_ there to stop her Leak, but were not willing to loose Time, since we found it did not encrease more than one Pump could vent, which we had Men enough to keep continually going.

The King of _Bouton_ has several Galleys built after a peculiar Form, and other small Imbarkations, on which, they say, he can imbark eight Thousand Men on any Expedition; our People that were upon the Island tell me, all their Towns are built on Precipices, and hard to get at, and that the Chief City was built on the Top of a Hill, to which there was only one Passage very steep. We found a watering Place from a Spring out of the Rocks, but difficult to fill out of, because of its Ebbing and Flowing here, almost 3 Fathom, which dries the Rock near the Shoar.

[Sidenote: _At Anchor at the Island of Bouton._]

Comments

Log in to leave a comment.

A Cruising Voyage Around the WorldChapter XVI: Part 16

0%37 min left in chapter