Chapter XII: Part 12

_August 16._ This Day I muster’d our Negroes aboard the _Duke_, being about 35 lusty Fellows; I told them, That if we met the _Spaniards_ or _French_, and they would fight, those that behav’d themselves well should be free Men; 32 of ’em immediately promis’d to stand to it, as long as the best _Englishman_, and desired they might be improv’d in the Use of Arms, which some of them already understood; and that if I would allow ’em Arms and Powder, these would teach the rest. Upon this, I made _Michael Kendall_, the _Jamaica_ free Negro, who deserted from the _Spaniards_ to us at _Gorgona_, their Leader, and charged him to be continually exercising them, because I did not know how soon we might meet an Enemy: I took down the Names of those that had any, and such as wanted I bestow’d Names on them, and to confirm our Contract made them drink a Dram all round to our good Success; at the same time I gave ’em Bays for Clothes, and told them they must now look upon themselves as _Englishmen_, and no more as Negro Slaves to the _Spaniards_, at which they express’d themselves highly pleas’d: I promise my self good Assistance from them, if need be, having this Proverb on their Side, that Those who know nothing of Danger fear none; and for our own Parts, we must not submit to be Prisoners, tho’ forced to engage at the greatest Disadvantage, but every one resolve to stand to the last, for if taken we shall be worse than Slaves.

_August 18._ At 6 this Morning we saw a Sail, which bore W. N. W. of us; we and the _Dutchess_ gave Chace, and took her in about an Hour. The _Dutchess_ had kept her Company ever since 12 at Night, and thought her to be our Bark. She was a Vessel of about 70 Tun, bound from _Panama_ to _Lima_, but was to stop at _Guiaquil_. They had very little aboard besides Passengers, for they knew of our being in these Seas: The best of her Cargo was about 24 Negroes, Men and Women. I sent our Agent aboard, to examine the Prize.

_August 19._ After Dinner aboard the _Dutchess_, we examin’d the Prisoners; they could tell us little News from _Europe_, but said there came Advices by a Packet to _Portobell_ from _Spain_, and by a _French_ Ship from _France_, not long before they came out of _Panama_; that all was kept private, only they heard in _Panama_, that his Royal Highness Prince _George_ of _Denmark_ was dead,[136] which we were not willing to believe, but drank his Health at Night, which can do him no Hurt if he is dead. We read several Letters from _Panama_, by which we understood, that when they heard of our taking _Guiaquil_, they kept their Gates shut Day and Night for above a Week, and that the Inhabitants kept Guard on their Walls, being afraid we should attack them next, and by what I can guess, we might have taken that Town as well as _Guiaquil_, had we but double our Number of Men. They had various Conjectures about us when at _Panama_, and were continually allarm’d, not knowing where to expect us.

_August 20._ At 10 in the Morning we bore down to the _Dutchess_, who had _Spanish_ Colours flying, to make a sham Fight to exercise our Men and the Negroes in the Use of our great Guns and small Arms. Here I must not forget a _Welchman_ that came to me, and told me, He took the Ship we were going to engage for the _Dutchess_, till he saw the _Spanish_ Colours, and that being over-joyed with the Hopes of a good Prize, he had loaded his Musket with Shot, and design’d to fire amongst the thickest of ’em, which he would certainly have done, had he not been forbid. By this it appears, that blundering Fools may have Courage. During this sham

[Sidenote: _In Tecames Road._]

Engagement, every one acted the same Part he ought to have done, if in earnest, firing with Ball excepted. Our Prisoners were secured in the Hold by the Surgeons, who had their Instruments in order, and to imitate Business for them, I order’d red Lead mixt with Water to be thrown upon two of our Fellows, and sent ’em down to the Surgeons, who, as well as the Prisoners in the Hold of the Ship, were very much surpriz’d, thinking they had been really wounded, and the Surgeons actually went about to dress them, but finding their Mistake, it was a very agreeable Diversion.

_August 23._ Yesterday, at one in the Afternoon, we tack’d and stood for the Shore, but at two we drew near discolour’d Water, and sounded, had but 8 Fathom, and very near an ugly Shoal, which the _Spaniards_ tell me runs off about 2 Leagues from the Shore, off a high white Cliff, 3 Leagues to the N. of _Tecames_. At 6 last Night, Cape St. _Francisco_ bore S. by W. distant about 6 Leagues. We sounded again, and had 40 Fathom Water. We stood off at Night, and at 6 in the Morning tack’d for the Shore. The Wind is here always more Southerly, as we draw near the Equinox.

_August 24._ At 10 this Morning, I went with Captain _Dover_ aboard the _Dutchess_, where we agreed to send the Bark into _Tecames_, being now under our Lee, and we to follow them. We order’d our Linguist to buy Provisions of the _Indians_ there, and put several Men well arm’d a-board, to keep the Bark till our Ship could arrive near enough to protect her, if occasion, in Case of an Attack.

_August 25._ About 2 Yesterday in the Afternoon we bore away for _Tecames_, after the Barks. I went aboard the _Dutchess_, and found our Pilot, and most of the _Spaniards_, who are generally ignorant, uncertain whether it was the Port under our Lee, tho’ I never saw more remarkable Land; this made us the more timerous, and me in particular, because Capt. _Dampier_, who was here last Voyage, and said he had pass’d near it very often, was full as dubious as our selves, that never saw it: This occasion’d me to hurry aboard our own Ship to secure her; for I doubted our being near Shoals, because the Water was very thick and white. Capt. _Courtney_ sent his Pinnace a Head sounding, and we follow’d, he having then all the Pilots aboard. We kept the Lead sounding from 40 to 13 Fathom Water, very uneven Depths, till we came within 2 Leagues of the Anchoring place. We had every Cast about 14 Fathom Water, and saw the Houses by the Water-side; then I was easy and satisfied. Before we got in, the Barks were at Anchor, and our Linguist, Mr. _White_, without Orders, ventur’d a-shore with a _Spanish_ Prisoner; we design’d that the Prisoner alone should discourse the _Indians_, and try to trade for a Refreshment: It was Night as they landed, just against the Houses where the _Indians_ lay in Ambush, with Fire-Arms, Bows, Arrows, and Lances, among the Trees, and fir’d several Times at our Boats, tho’ they told the _Indians_ in _Spanish_, that they were Friends, and call’d to them often to forbear firing. Our Men having the good Luck to escape being shot, they hid themselves all Night, whilst we feared they were either kill’d or taken; but at Day-light they call’d again to the _Indians_, and prevail’d with them to trade for what we wanted, provided their Padre would give Consent, he lived about 6 Leagues off, and they promis’d to send and ask his Leave. Our Linguist told them we had a Padre aboard, whom we esteemed, and he would absolve them, if they traded with us: Upon this, they desired we would permit him to come a-shoar, which we granted.

[Sidenote: _In Tecames Road._]

_August 26._ The Padre aboard, who was zealous to conclude this Treaty with the _Indians_ to our Content, went this Morning a-shore, and return’d a-board in the Evening; while he was a-shore, he writ a Letter to the Priest of the place in our Favour, earnestly recommending a Trade, and expressing the many Civilities we shewed to him and the other _Spanish_ Prisoners, beyond their Expectation, adding that we were sensible of the smallest Favours, and would not fail of making very grateful Returns. He convinc’d the Inhabitants ashore, and also inform’d the Padre, how easily we could land, and burn the Church and Houses, and lay waste all the adjacent Parts; but that we were full of Charity, and very kind to those in our Power. This wrought so well on the People, that they promis’d faithfully they would only wait till to morrow, and if the Padre did not consent, would notwithstanding trade with us. They brought with them a naked _Indian_, who like a Savage view’d very narrowly every Part of our Ship; he was wonderfully taken with the Great Cabbin, where he lay on his Side, scarce satisfy’d after an Hour’s gazing wildly about him, till giving him a Dram of Brandy, and a few Toys to be rid of this Visitant, I obligingly led the Gentleman out, and giving him old Bays for Clothing, our Yall carried him ashore, to influence the rest by our kind Usage of him. At the same time all the rest of our Boats full of Casks, with the Men well arm’d, went up the Creek between us and the Village, for fresh Water, where they accidentally met one of the chief _Indians_ painted, and armed with Bows and Arrows: He came friendly, and advised them to go higher up the River, otherwise the Water would be brackish: They offer’d him a Dram out of a Quart Bottle of strong Brandy; he drank the major Part of it at once, and went away extreamly pleas’d, telling them we should be supply’d with what we wanted from the Village.

_August 27._ Last Night the Boats came from the Village Laden with Water, and brought a Letter from the _Tecames_ Padre, assuring us he would not obstruct our Trade. The Inhabitants also told us, that Cattle, Hogs and Plantains would be ready for us, and desir’d we should bring ashore Bays and other Goods to pay for ’em, which we did, and this Morning our Boats return’d with Black Cattle and Hogs, leaving Capt. _Navarre_, one of our chief Prisoners, and Mr. _White_ our Linguist, to deal with the _Indians_. This Morning we began to heel and clean our Ships Bottoms, and sent several of our best Sailors, and two Carpenters, to assist the _Marquiss_. Ashore our Men keep one half at Arms, while the rest load the Boats, left the _Indians_, who are generally treacherous, should watch an Opportunity to fall on ’em. Our People that came off the Shore took particular notice, that the red Paint with which the _Indians_ were at first daub’d, was a Declaration of War, and after we had amicably treated with them, they rub’d it off, but still kept their Arms. We sent them 3 large Wooden _Spanish_ Saints, that we had out of _Morell_’s Ship, to adorn their Church, which they accounted a great Present; and I sent a feather’d Cap to the chief _Indian’s_ Wife, which was likewise very well accepted, and I had a Present of Bows and Arrows in requital.

_August 28._ Yesterday in the Afternoon we made an end of heeling and cleaning our Ship; our Boats brought from the Shore at several times Water, Plantains, and other Provisions, with Hogs, and 2 Black Cattle. Our Linguist and Prisoner manage their Business beyond Expectation, selling very ordinary Bays at 1 Piece of Eight and half _per_ Yard, and other things in proportion, so that we have Provisions very cheap.

_August 29._ Capt. _Cooke_ buried one _John Edwards_, a Youth, who died of a Complication of Scurvey and the Pox, which he got from a loathsome Negro, whom we afterwards gave to the Prisoners, that she might do no further Mischief on board.

In the Afternoon we concluded how to proceed from this Place as follows.

At a Committee held on board the _Duke_ the _29th_ of _August, 1709_. in _Tecames_ Road.

_We have consider’d our mean Stock of Provisions, and that our Time is far spent; therefore do think it for the good of the Voyage to part with several Negroes, besides those taken in the last Prize, and to make as good a Contract as we can with two or more of the substantial Prisoners, and to return their Produce to Alderman_ Batcheller _and Company, our Owners in_ Bristol, _in the best manner we can, having no other Method to make an advantage of them; we now being design’d to cruize for the_ Manila _Ship: But if any Accident parts us, then our Place of Rendevouz is in the Latitude of Cape_ Corientes _in sight of Land. It is likewise agreed to sell the Hull of the last Prize, to carry the small Bark with us, and to turn one of the_ Guiaquil _Prisoners ashore here, in order to save Provisions._

Tho. Dover, _Pres._ William Stratton,
Woodes Rogers, Tho. Glendall,
Stephen Courtney, John Connely,
William Dampier, John Bridge,
Edw. Cooke, John Ballett,
Robert Frye, Lan. Appleby.
Cha. Pope,

Then we found it necessary to agree as follows.

August 29. 1709.

_In consideration of the great Risque that Capt._ Edward Cooke _and Capt._ Robert Frye _ran in attacking the_ Marquiss, _when in the Hands of the_ Spaniards, _we do in behalf of the Owners agree to give Capt._ Cooke _the Black Boy_ Dublin, _and Capt._ Frye _the Black Boy_ Emanuel _of_ Martineco, _as a free Gift._

Tho. Dover, _Pres._ Charles Pope,
Woodes Rogers, John Connely,
Stephen Courtney, John Bridge,
William Dampier, John Ballet,
William Stratton, Lan. Appleby.

[Sidenote: In Tecames Road.]

_August 30._ Yesterday _Peter Harry_ a _Frenchman_, and _Lazarus Luke_ a _Portuguese_, both good Sailors, ran from our Yall ashore. This _Peter Harry_ was he who shot a Centinel at _Guiaquil_ as beforemention’d. We did not punish him, because he was a Foreigner, and did not well understand _English_, but suppose he was afraid of a Prosecution in _England_. Yesterday Evening at the abovemention’d Committees aboard our Ship, after a long dispute, some Measures were agreed on contrary to my Expectations. If we had not grown irresolute since we left _Gorgona_, but continued our Design to put our old Ransomer ashore at _Manta_, and part with our Clog the _Marquiss_, which I so earnestly press’d the _9th_ instant, by this time in all human probability we should have made good our Bargain to the advantage of the Voyage, besides getting Provisions and Necessaries that we shall mightily want. The Goods that we might have vended there for ready Money, I fear will rot before we get the like Opportunity, Time being now so far spent, we must proceed as we agreed for the _Gallapagos_ to get Turtle to lengthen our Provisions, and then for the Coast of _Mexico_ to look for the _Manila_ Ship bound for _Acapulca_. The 2 Negroes given to Capt. _Cooke_ and Mr. _Frye_ in the Committee yesterday, is not an equivalent Gratuity for the Risques they voluntarily ran when they attack’d the _Havre de Grace_, now call’d the _Marquiss_. Such Actions ought sometimes to be particularly rewarded among us, else we may lose great Opportunities of Advantage, for want of due Encouragement to personal Bravery, and in this Action where there was but a few concerned, ’twas a fit and cheap way of encouraging the rest, without Offence to any. We put our young Padre ashore, and gave him, as he desir’d, the prettiest young Female Negro we had in the Prize, with some Bays, Linnen, and other things, for his good Services in helping to promote our Trade for Provisions here. We sent also a _Male_ Negro and Piece of Bays to the _Tecames_ Padre, in acknowledgment of his Kindness. The young Padre parted with us extremely pleas’d, and leering under his Hood upon his black Female Angel, we doubt he will crack a Commandment with her, and wipe off the Sin with the Church’s Indulgence. The _Indians_ ashore promise to bring our Men to us, if they can find ’em, we having offer’d ’em a large Gratuity to do it.

_August 31._ Yesterday in the Afternoon we put ashore our useless Negroes, I having concluded with Sen. _Navarre_, and taken the best Methods we could to be paid at _Jamaica_ for them, he had also 4 Bales of Bays, and one Piece of Camlet, and became obliged to our Owners for 3500 Pieces of Eight, to be remitted by way of _Portobello_, with the _English_ trading Sloops to _Jamaica_; which if he do, ’tis much better than to turn the Negroes ashore as Prisoners of War, as otherwise we must have done to save Provisions. Capt. _Courtney_ took one Obligation, and I the other, he having sign’d a Duplicate to us. We had the best Opinion of this Man’s Honesty and Ability, which made us trust him solely. In the Evening we clear’d our Prisoners, and put them all aboard the Prize, which we left in the Road with only one ordinary Anchor and Hawser, and no Rigging, except what belong’d to the Fore-sail and Fore-yard, which we left them to run the Vessel at High Water into the River. We turn’d ashore here our least responsible Hostage for _Guiaquil_, resolving to keep but two, which must be carried home. According to the last Conclusion in a Committee of the _29th_ instant, we came to sail at 6 this Morning. Capt. _Cooke_ lost 2 _Spanish_ Negroes, which he supposed swam ashore from his Ship in the Night. A fresh Gale at S. S. W. At Noon Cape _St. Francisco_ bore S. by W. 1/2 W. distant about 6 Leagues.

[Sidenote: _Description of Tecames._]

The Land to the Northward, which is the Limits of the Bay of _Tecames_, is a long bluff high Point, and looks white down to the Water. The next Land to the Southward of _Tecames_ is also white Cliffs, but not so high. I saw no Land on any part of the Shore, like those white Cliffs. Between them, which is about 3 Leagues, the Land is lower, full of Wood, and trimming inward makes a small Bay, and the Village of _Tecames_ lies in the Bottom, consisting of 7 Houses and a Church, all low built of split Bamboes, cover’d with Palmetto Leaves, and standing on Posts, with Hog-sties under them. These Houses have notch’d Pieces of Timber instead of Stairs to get up to ’em. The Village lies close by the Water-side, and may be seen when the Bay is open above 4 Leagues. ’Tis suppos’d they had sent off their best Furniture on notice of our Approach, for there was nothing of Worth in their Houses nor Church. The Women had only a Piece of Bays tied about their Middle. The Men are dextrous at hunting and fishing. There is a large Village about 4 Leagues off, where the Padre resides, and several _Indians_ live between these Villages. The next River, 3 Leagues to the Northward, is very large, and call’d _Rio de las Esmeraldas_, but shoal’d; the Country about is thinly inhabited by _Indians_, Mullattoes and Samboes. By the Village of _Tecames_ there’s a River into which a Boat may enter at half Tide; it flows here above 3 Fathom Water, the Flood runs to the Northward, and the Ebb to the Southward; there is an infinite Number of Plantains for 3 Days Journey into the Country, the nearest are about a League from the Houses, and were brought to our Boats down this River in their Canoes. Here runs a great Surf on the Shore, so that were it not in these Parts of the World, it would be but an ordinary Road. Ships generally come in from the Southward, or at least directly in with the Southermost white Land, and then bear away, because (as we were inform’d) there is an ugly Shole runs off the Northernmost white Land, about 2 Leagues into the Sea, being the Place where we had but 8 Fathom Water on the _23d_ instant, as I noted before. We now came in from abreast off Cape _St. Francisco_, Lat. 1°. 00´´. N. and this lies in about E.N.E. near 6 Leagues from Cape _St. Francisco_. We came no nearer than half a League of the Shore, because there is a small Shole off of a Point about half way between _Tecames_; and the Cape, which is an indifferent high Promontory, and as we made it, falls down like Stairs to the Water. We had good clean Ground where we rode near half a League from the Shore in 7 Fathom Water, but a League into the Bottom of the Bay, where the Houses lie, there’s not above 3 Fathom a good Musket-shot from the Shore. There is another River enters in by a single House between us and _Tecames_ Village, where we fetch’d our Water about 2 Leagues up this River; and it’s very narrow, and shoal’d all from the Entrance; we went in on half Flood. Here’s Sea and Land Breezes, as well as on all this Coast near the Main Land; the Sea Breeze at W. and W.S.W. the Land Breeze at S. and S. by E. The Sea Breeze comes generally in the Afternoon, and holds till Midnight, when comes the Land Breeze, which dies away calm towards the Middle of the Day. There’s a Rock under Water at quarter Flood, and a Shoal above a Cable’s Length off Shore, from the first Point as you go in for the narrow River where we water’d. A Ship ought not to come to an Anchor near the Shore, if High Water, in less than 6 Fathom, because at certain times, and out of course, as the _Indians_ told us, the Tide ebbs exceeding low. It’s dry Weather here, tho’ showry to the Northward, being the Limits of the Rains at this time of the Year. From _June_ to _December_ ’tis always dry, and from the Beginning of _January_ to the last of _May_ there are Showers now and then.

The _Indians_ about this Place are sometimes barbarous to the _Spaniards_, as our Prisoners tell us. Our People saw here about 50 armed with Bows and Arrows, and some good Fire-Arms; they are worse to engage than double the Number of _Spaniards_, so that it would have been folly in us to land Men here, where there is so little to be got; and the _Indians_ with poison’d Arrows and Fire-Arms would line the Bushes down to the Water-side, and no doubt we should have lost many of our Men, had we landed by force; so that we are all extremely obliged to Mr. _White_ our Linguist, for negotiating a Trade in so peaceable a manner with these poor mischievous Wretches, which must in Justice be ascrib’d to his good Management, he accomplishing it voluntarily with the Danger of his Life.

’Twas off this Cape that Sir _Francis Drake_ in 1578. took the rich Plate Prize; and Sir _Richard Hawkins_ was taken by the _Spaniards_ in this Bay off of _Tecames_ in 1594. both in Queen Elizabeth’s Time.

_Sept. 1._ At 6 this Morning Cape _St. Francisco_ bore S. E. distant 10 Leagues, from whence we take our Departure. Had fair Weather, Wind at S. W. by S. We saw many Water-snakes, one of ’em crawl’d up the Side of Capt. _Cooke’s_ Ship, but was beat off by his Men. The _Spaniards_ say their Bite is incurable.

_Sept. 6._ This day I had Capt. _Courtney_, Capt. _Cooke_, and Capt. _Dampier_ aboard, who dined with us. Capt. _Cooke_ complain’d of his Ship being crank, and that we need not have tack’d so near the Shore, since we might easily fetch the _Gallapagos_ without Tacking. All agree to this except our Pilot, who is very positive of seeing other Islands about 100 or 110 Leagues from the Main under the Equinox. He tells us he was at them formerly when he was a Buccaneer, and has describ’d ’em in one of the Volumes he calls his Voyages, and says that those Islands we were at lay to the Westward of them; but he must be mistaken, or we had seen them in the last Runs to and from these Islands.

_Sept. 8._ We are run over and beyond where our Pilot affirm’d the Islands were, and no sight of them; so we all agree that the Islands he was at when a buccaneering can be no other but those we were at, and are going to now; the nearest part of them lies 165 Leagues to the Westward of the Main Land.

_Sept. 10._ The _8th_ we made one of the _Gallapagos_ Islands, and in the Morning hoisted out our Pinnace; Capt. Dover and Mr. _Glendall_ went in her for the Shore. The _Dutchess_’s Pinnace return’d very soon laden with Turtle.

[Sidenote: _Arrival among the Gallapagos Islands._]

_ Sept. 11._ Yesterday we came to an Anchor in about 30 Fathom Water, about 2 Miles off Shore, being rocky at bottom. In letting go the Anchor the Buoy Rope was immediately cut off, and our Ship drove; so that we thought our Cable was also cut, but after driving about half a Mile the Ship rode very well. In the Evening our Boats that left us after we came to an Anchor, return’d laden with excellent good Turtle: We sent our Yawl and some Men ashore to turn those Creatures in the Night, but to no purpose, because we afterwards found they only came ashore in the Day. I sent away our Pinnace, and Lieut. _Frye_ to sound out a better anchoring Place, while we hove up the Anchor, and came to sail. Our Boat return’d, and by 10 a Clock we had our Ship again to an Anchor within less than a Mile off the Shore, right against a white sandy Bay. The outermost great Rock being near the Middle of the Island, bore N. by E. distant 6 Miles; the little Rock appearing like a Sail bore W. by S. about 4 Miles. Here we rode very smooth in good sandy Ground; the Wind amongst these Islands generally blows from the S. E. to the S. by W. I went ashore in the Pinnace, and carried Men to walk round the Sandy Bay to get Turtle. The Island is high like the rest, but some low Land on this side down to the Sea; it’s very rocky, dry and barren, with out Water, like those we have already seen.

_Sept. 12._ This Morning I sent to the _Dutchess_, who was at an Anchor a good distance from us, to know how they were stock’d with Turtle. At 10 the Boat return’d with an Account they had about 150 Land and Sea Turtle, but not generally so large as ours: We had no Land Turtle as yet, but about 150 Sea Turtle; the _Marquiss_ had the worst Luck.

_Sept. 13._ The _Dutchess_’s People having inform’d us where they got their Land Turtle, I sent our Pinnace, which at Night return’d with 37, and some Salt they found in a Pond; and the Yawl brought 20 Sea Turtle, so that we are very full of them. Some of the largest of the Land Turtle are about 100 Pound Weight, and those of the Sea upwards of 400: The Land Turtle lay Eggs on our Deck; our Men brought some from the Shore about the bigness of a Goose’s Egg, white, with a large thick Shell exactly round. These Creatures are the ugliest in Nature, the Shell not unlike the Top of an old Hackney Coach, as black as Jet, and so is the outside Skin, but shrivel’d and very rough; the Legs and Neck are long, and about the bigness of a Man’s Wrist, and they have Club Feet as big as one’s Fist, shaped much like those of an Elephant, with 5 thick Nails on the Fore Feet, and but 4 behind; the Head little, and Visage small, like a Snake, and look very old and black; when at first surpriz’d, they shrink their Neck, Head and Legs under their Shell. Two of our Men, with Lieut. _Stratton_, and the Trumpeter of the _Dutchess_, affirm, they saw vast large ones of this sort about 4 Foot high; they mounted 2 Men on the Back of one of them, who with its usual slow Pace carried them, and never minded the Weight: They suppos’d this could not weigh less than 700 Pound. I don’t affect giving Relations of strange Creatures so frequently done by others already in print; but where an uncommon Creature falls in my way, I shall not omit it. The _Spaniards_ tell us they know of none elsewhere in these Seas. This Morning we began heeling our Ship, and found that abundance of Worms had entered the Sheathing; we scrub’d, clean’d, and tallow’d as low as we could.

_Sept. 14._ Yesterday Afternoon we sent a Boat ashore for Wood, they brought off the Rudder and Boltsprit of a small Bark; we fancy’d it might be Mr. _Hattley_’s that we lost amongst these Islands when here before, but on view perceiv’d it to be much older. We also found 2 Jars, and a Place where Fire had been made on the Shore, but nothing to give us farther Hopes of poor Mr. _Hattley_. Our Pinnace came aboard and brought about 18 Bushells of Salt, and 18 Land Turtle more; the Men commend them for excellent Food, especially the Land Turtle, which makes very good Broth, but the Flesh never boils tender: for my own part, I could eat neither sort yet. Having got as much Turtle on board, as we could eat while good, we agreed to make the best of our Way to the Coast of _Mexico_, and this Morning our Consort and the _Marquiss_ were under Sail by 8 a Clock, but we lying farther in were becalm’d, and could not follow them. We caught a good quantity of Fish here, which we split and salted for our future Spending. About 12 a Clock, being calm, we weighed our Anchor, and with the Help of our Boats and Ships Oars got off the Shore.

_Sept. 15._ We had a fine Breeze, came up to the rest, and agreed to lye by with our Heads to the Eastward, till Midnight, being in sight of the Island and Rock where we lost poor _Hattley_, when last here. In the Morning we stood to the Westward amongst the Islands.

[Sidenote: _Departure from the Gallapagos Islands._]

_Sept. 16._ At 4 a Clock in the Afternoon we sent our Yawl for Capt. _Cooke_ and Capt. _Courtney_, with whom we agreed to bear away, seeing so many Islands and Rocks to the Westward, we did not care to incumber our selves amongst them in the Night. By 6 we found the Remedy worse than the Disease, and at Mast head could see all low Rocks almost joining from Island to Island, that we seem’d Land-lock’d for three Parts of the Compass, and no Way open but to the S.E. from whence we came, so we resolv’d to return that Way, and made short Trips all Night, keeping continual Sounding for fear of Shoals, and had from 40 to 60 Fathom Water. In the Morning we had got far enough to Windward to return. We could have no Observation by the Sun, being in our Zenith, tho’ we find the Weather here much colder than in any Latitude within 10 Degrees of each side the Equinox.

_Sept. 17._ Yesterday Afternoon I went a-board the _Marquiss_, being brought too between the two Islands, in sight of the rendezvous Rock I have so often mention’d: Mean while the _Dutchess_ (not being so well provided with Turtle as we) sent her Boat a-shore on another Island, where they got her Lading of excellent Turtle, leaving a vast Number a-shore that they could not bring away. We have as many a-board as we have Room for, being, as we suppose, enough to last us to the _Tres Marias_, if they live. At 7 we all join’d, and agreed to lie by, till 2 in the Morning, when we again jogg’d on with an easy Sail till Day-break. We were a-breast of the Thorowfare, where we tried for Water the last time. I order’d a Gun to be fir’d at a venture, to see if it were possible Mr. _Hattley_ could be there alive, and then seeing or hearing us, might make a Smoak a-shore, as a Signal, but we had no such good Luck; so that our Hopes of him are all vanish’d, and we finally conclude, that we can do no more for him than we have done already.

The 18th and 19th we saw several more Islands, one of ’em a large one, which we suppos’d reach’d near the Equinoctial, and abundance of small Islands betwixt us; the 19th at Noon, we had an indifferent good Observation. Lat. 2°. 2´´. N.

The _Gallapagos_ Islands need no further Description than I have at several Places given of them; only that I believe, as others before have observed, that the Turtle come a-shore in the sandy Bays of these Islands, all the Year round.

We saw in all (some that we searched and others that we viewed at a Distance, at both times) no less than 50, but none that had the least Appearance of fresh Water. The _Spanish_ Reports agree that there is but one that has any; which lies about Lat. 1°. 30´´. S. Sen. _Morell_ tells me, that a _Spanish_ Man of War employed to cruize for Pyrates, was once at an Island that lies by it self in the Lat. 1°. 20 or 30´´. S. They call it _S. Maria de l’Aquada_, a pleasant Island and good Road, full of Wood, and Plenty of Water and Turtle, of both sorts, with Fish, _&c._ lying about 140 _Spanish_ Leagues West from the Island _Plata_, but I believe it’s at least 30 Leagues more, and that it’s no other but the same Island, where Capt. _Davis_ the _English_ Buccaneer recruited, and all the Light he has left to find it again is, that it lies to the Westward of those Islands he was at with the other Buccaneers, which as I have before examin’d, can be no other than these Islands we have been twice at. We had no occasion to look for this Island the second Trip, tho’ I believe it’s easy to find it without farther Directions. Here’s most sorts of Sea Birds amongst these Islands and some Land Birds, particularly Hawks of several sorts, and Turtle Doves, both so very tame that we often hit them down with Sticks. I saw no sort of Beasts; but there are Guanas in abundance, and Land Turtle almost on every Island: ’Tis strange how the latter got here, because they can’t come of themselves, and none of that sort are to be found on the Main. Seals haunt some of these Islands, but not so numerous, nor their Fur so good as at _Juan Fernando’s_. A very large one made at me 3 several times, and had I not happen’d to have a Pike-staff pointed with Iron in my Hand, I might have been kill’d by him; (one of our Men having narrowly escap’d the Day before.) I was on the level Sand when he came open-mouth’d at me out of the Water, as quick and fierce as the most angry Dog let loose. I struck the Point into his Breast, and wounded him all the three times he made at me, which forc’d him at last to retire with an ugly Noise, snarling and shewing his long Teeth at me out of the Water: This amphibious Beast was as big as a large Bear.

_Sept. 22._ The _Marquiss_ had sprung a large Leak, for want of good Caulking at first in _Gorgona_: I went aboard with our Carpenter, who assisted theirs, and with a Piece of Lead nail’d over the Leak (being in the Water’s Edge) soon stopt it, and we made Sail again in a little time. Wind at S. by E. We had a good Observation. N. Lat. 6°. 9´´. Every Day as we leave the Equinoctial more distant the Heat encreases very much.

[Sidenote: _Arrival at the Island Tres Marias._]

_October 1._ Yesterday we made the main Land of _Mexico_; it bore N. E. distant about 10 Leagues. We hoisted out our Yawl, and fetch’d aboard Capt. _Cooke_, and his Lieutenant Mr. _Pope_, Capt. _Courtney_ and Capt. _Dampier_; the latter says he knows this high Land; but the Latt. directs us all to know it. Capt. _Dampier_, near this Place, five Years past, met the _Manila_ Ship in the St. _George_, and had a Fight at a Distance, but he says for want of Men could not board her, and after a short Dispute, was forced to let her alone. We hall’d off the Shore, W. N. W. not caring to be near enough to be seen from the Land, to allarm the Coast too soon. We had often Showers of Rain, Wind at S.S.E.

_Octob. 2._ Most part of this 24 Hours we had Squalls and then little Wind at S.S.E. intermixt with sultry hot Weather. Our Men begin to be unhealthy again, two having lately dropt down on the Deck, but after bleeding came pretty well to themselves. We agreed with our Consort to lie by from 8 at Night till day break. At Noon it clear’d up, and we saw the Land, at least 8 Leagues off, tho’ we seem’d just under it, it was so very high. We made Cape _Corientes_ bearing N.E. about 8 Leagues, by which we judge according to our Observation at Noon, that it lies in Lat. 20°. 10´´. N. We know it to be Cape _Corientes_, because we could see no Land to the Northward of it, and that it was a Head-land. Capt. _Dampier_ has been here also, but it’s a long Time ago. We all agreed it was the Cape, and that we had best hall off N. W. to look for the Islands _Tres Marias_, which are not far from this Cape, but we are not certain of their Situation.

_Octob. 4._ Yesterday Afternoon, at 4, the Cape bore E. N. E. about 10 Leagues. We kept on under an easy Sail all Night. In the Morning we saw 2 Islands, being very clear Weather, at least 14 Leagues distant, one bearing N. by W. and the other N. by E. At Noon we had a good Observation. Lat. 20°. 45´´. N.

Tho’ our Men have their Fill of Land and Sea Turtle, which keeps them from the Scurvy, yet I find them weak, it being but a faintly Food, except they had sufficient Bread or Flower with it, they having but a Pound and a Quarter of Bread or Flower, for five Men a Day, to prolong our Stock of Bread against we come to live wholly on our salt Provisions, and then must be forced to allow more.

_Octob. 6._ In the Morning we sent Lieutenant _Frye_ in the Pinnace ashore on the Eastermost Island, to try whether there was any good Road or convenience for us to recruit there. At 9 they return’d, and told me the Island had foul Ground near half a Mile from the Shore; bad Anchoring, worse Landing, and no fresh Water; but Wood enough. A melancholy Story, our Water growing short. We hall’d on a Wind, for the middle Island, which Capt. _Dampier_, I do believe, can remember he was at, when he belong’d to Captain _Swann_,[137] and found Water. Being little Wind we sent our Boat towards the Island, to view it before we could get thither with the Ship.

_Octob. 7._ The _Dutchess_’s People, and our Pinnace had been ashore at several Places on the S. E. side of the Island, and found bitter Water at every Place. Our Ship got soon to an Anchor near the _Dutchess_, in 11 Fathom Water and sandy Ground, about a Mile and a half off Shore.

_Octob. 8._ Those that had been on the Island saw no Sign of Peoples being lately there, but found a human Skull above Ground, which we suppose to have been one of the two _Indians_ Capt. _Dampier_ tells us were left here by Capt. _Swann_, about 23 Years ago; for Victuals being scarce with these _Buccaneers_, they would not carry the poor _Indians_ any farther, but, after they had served their Turns, left them to make a miserable End on a desolate Island. We kept a Light out all Night, and a great Fire in the Island, that if the _Marquiss_ and Bark, who had left Company, saw it, and had a Gale, they might come into Anchor Ground. But having no sight of them at Day-break, I went on board our Consort, and propos’d my going out to look after ’em; but they made Light of it and thought it needless, believing they would be in after us, without any Assistance. The Recruit of Cattle, Hogs, and Plantains, at _Tecames_, held to the _Gallapagos_, and we have fed on the Turtle we got there ever since, excepting these two last Days. This accidental Stock of fresh Food has been some Refreshment to our Men, and prolongs our Stock of _European_ Provisions. Now Bread or Flower will be the first thing wanting. We had little Wind Northerly, and often calm.

_Octob. 9._ Yesterday I sent Lieut. _Glendall_ to view the other side of the Island, and he brought me back word it was much better than this, with sandy Bays, and signs of Turtle in the Sand, which he believed came ashore the last Night. I sent back the Boat and Men to try to get Turtle; and this Morning they came back with their Boats Load of very good ones, and left another lading behind them ready turn’d; they also had found indifferent good Water on the N. E. side of the Island, which rejoiced us to be so unexpectedly supplied; for the other Water on this side the Island,

[Sidenote: _At Anchor at St. Marias Islands._]

had purg’d those that drank it aboard the _Dutchess_ like Physick. We had no sight yet of the Bark or _Marquiss_. ’Tis very hot, with an Air of Wind Northerly, but almost calm. Our Consort has sent their Pinnace in quest of the missing Ships.

_Octob. 10._ Lieut. _Connely_ of the _Dutchess_, that went in quest of ’em return’d without any News. And we having begun trimming our Ship, and stripping the Rigging; the _Dutchess_ desired to go and look for them, mean while we were to employ our People to cut Wood and get a Stock of Turtle against their Return. We found an excellent Run of Water on the other side of the Island, and sent our Pinnace to view the Westermost Island, to see if either of the missing Ships had got into Anchor here.

Capt. _Dover_ being willing to remove aboard the _Dutchess_, I desired our Officers to make the following _Memorandum_.

Tres S. Maria Islands.

_We the under-written, appointed part of a Committee now present on board the_ Duke, _do certify, that Capt._ Dover _requested to go on board the_ Dutchess; _and desired us to take notice it was his own Choice so to do. Witness our Hands, this 10th Day of_ October, 1709.

Stephen Courtney, Robert Frye,
Woodes Rogers, Thomas Glendall,
William Dampier, Lanc. Appleby.

At the same time the following Agreement was made where to meet with the _Dutchess_, and they took a Copy with them.

_In case we aboard the_ Duke _don’t see the_ Dutchess _return in 10
Days, then to be ready to sail, and first look in the Latitude
20°._ N. _in sight of the Land: If not to be found there, to run
off the Land farther into Sea, and then in sight again, but no
nearer than within 6 Leagues of the Land, to prevent Discovery. We
are to bring all full of Water and Turtle for a second Recruit, to
keep a continual Look-out for them, and leave a Signal at the South
End of this Island._

_Octob. 11._ According to this Agreement Capt. _Dover_ went himself, and sent his Servant with his Necessaries aboard the _Dutchess_. In the Evening they came to sail, and carry’d above 100 large Turtle that we brought to them in our Boats for victualling, to save Salt Provisions. We hope the Current, that has hitherto run to Leeward, will quickly shift, and facilitate their Return, that we may not be obliged to follow them. I order’d 6 Yards of red and white Bays to be join’d together, to spread it as a Signal on the Island for directing them to a Letter from me in a Bottle by it, should we unexpectedly quit the Place in her Absence.

_Octob. 12._ Last Night our Pinnace, which had been in quest of the missing Ships, return’d from the Westermost Island, and saw no Sign of the Ships. Our People tell us, they heard aboard the _Dutchess_, that the Bark had not 2 Days Water when they left them, which made me very uneasy lest she should go to the Main after Water, which would discover us, and might prove the Occasion of losing her also.

Yesterday we put Negroes ashore to cut Wood for the absent Ships, and last Night our Boat came off, and brought but 3 out of 10, 7 having run away into the Woods: Immediately we dispatch’d several Men round the Island with Arms, to endeavour to catch ’em when they come down out of the Woods to get Food at the Sea-side. These Negroes had an Antipathy against _Michael Kendall_ the _Jamaica_ Negro, and design’d to have kill’d him, had not one of those that came aboard given him timely Notice of it. A Negro amongst the Runaways could write well, which made me get our Ransomers to write 3 _Spanish_ Papers of Encouragement to incline the Fugitives upon sight of ’em to return, promising that Negro his Freedom and every thing else he or the rest of them could reasonably desire. These Papers we nail’d up against Trees by the Brook side, where they will be sure to see them. My Reason for so doing was to prevent these Fellows from giving notice of us on the Coast, if they reach’d the Main on Bark Logs, which they could make with the Hatchets they had to cut Wood for us. If this Method fails of Success, ’tis in vain to hope for finding them by searching the Island, every part of it being full of thick Woods and Prickles, which make it unpassable. On the sandy Shore we began to imploy our Rope-makers to spin Twine for the _Dutchess_ and _Marquiss_, who complain their Stock is short. Our people found another Spring of excellent Water on the other side of the Island.

[Sidenote: _At Anchor at St. Marias Islands._]

_Octob. 13._ Yesterday Afternoon the _Dutchess_ came in sight, with the Bark in Tow, and soon after we saw the _Marquiss_. We kept a Light out, that they might the better find us. In the Morning we saw them at Anchor between the 2 Islands. I weigh’d in their sight, and put out our Ensign for ’em to follow us to the Watering Place on the other side of the Island, which they did accordingly. The Wind continues Northerly, with a Lee Current.

_Octob. 14._ Yesterday in the Afternoon we came to an Anchor in 16 Fathom Water off the N. E. Side of the Island. I went immediately in our Pinnace aboard the _Dutchess_, that was then under Sail with the Bark in Tow, 2 Leagues from us. About 4 they and the _Marquiss_ came to an Anchor; I told them of our Negroes deserting us, which had prevented our getting a good Stock of Wood in their Absence, and we agreed to keep all our Negroes on board the Ships, and narrowly watch ’em to prevent their Desertion for the future.

Mr. _Duck_, who was Master of the Bark, told me the Day they lost sight of us their Water was expended, and two of the Bark’s Crew in a very small Canoe left her almost out of sight of Land, and being smooth calm Weather, fortunately got aboard the _Marquiss_ to acquaint Capt. _Cooke_ they had no Water, upon which he bore down to them, and took her in Towe. Had he not done this, the Bark must have run for the Main Land to get Water, which might have alarm’d the Enemy, and endanger’d the Loss of the Vessel and Men. They were not above 8 Leagues off the Island, but it being hazey Weather, and having little Wind, and a Lee Current, they could not get in, or see us.

_Octob. 15._ We could not get to the Watering Place near the N. W. Corner of the Island, till 7 last Night, when we anchor’d in 7 Fathom Water, clean sandy Ground, about half a Mile from the Shore; the Westermost Point bore W. by N. about 3 Miles, and the Eastermost E. by S. 6 Miles. The Body of the Westermost Island bore N. W. distant 4 Leagues. This Morning we got our empty Casks ashore, and began filling Water. Had we not very fair Weather at this Season, and little Wind, this Place would be but an ordinary Road.

_Octob. 16._ Capt. _Courtney_ sent me word, that the _Marquiss_, who has been again missing, was well moored at the S. E. Side of the Island, and could not easily turn it hither; so we agreed she should lie there, and we would water her from hence with our Boats.

_Octob. 18._ Lieutenant _Fry_ went in the Pinnace last Night to view the Weather Island, and he returned this Morning, and told me there was a Road, but not very good and that he could find no Water.

_Octob. 19._ We hal’d the Sain [Sein], and caught some Fish. This Morning we found some Bail Goods damaged, which we believe they received before we had ’em; we unpack’d and dry’d ’em, and sold what was most damaged amongst the Ships Company, repacking and stowing away the rest. Very hot Weather, and a little Air of Wind North.

_Octob. 23._ We began this Morning to take aboard our Turtle, and the Remainder of our Wood and Water, designing in the Evening to return, and anchor on the S. E. Side of the Island, to join the _Marquiss_, and agree on a Station to cruize for the _Manila_ Ship. Our Men shot a Snake ashore, and brought it aboard dead; I saw it measured 15 Inches round, and near 10 Foot long; some of ’em are much larger; this was of a hazle colour, and spotted, called by the _Spaniards_ here a Leopard Serpent.

_Octob. 24._ All the Officers met aboard the _Dutchess_, and sign’d a Duplicate of every Conclusion in all Committees since we have been in these Seas. Many of the Resolutions wrote on board this Ship were in my Custody, and others wrote aboard the _Dutchess_ in Capt. _Courtney’s_; but it was thought advisable that each of us should have all the Copies signed alike. While we were together, we agreed on a Station to lie for the _Manila_ Ship; but I lately proposed parting, and to meet again at Cape _Corientes_, or any other appointed Station, and for us in the _Duke_ to cruize off the same Place where Capt. _Dampier_ met the _Manila_ Ship in the _St. George_, or else the _Marquiss_ and _Dutchess_ to take that Station, and I would go to Cape _St. Lucas_; since by either Method we should have 2 Chances for the Prize, and get Provisions, which we begin to want very much. This Method might prove much better than to be at one Place, where we could not be supply’d with Provisions; but the Officers of the _Dutchess_ and _Marquiss_ seeming unwilling to part Companies, and the Majority thinking Cape _St. Lucas_ the properest Place to lie for the _Manila_ Ship bound for _Acapulco_, I drew up our Resolution, which was signed by the whole Council, who on this Occasion were altogether.

At a Committee held on board the _Dutchess_ at the Islands _Tres
Marias, October 24. 1709_.

[Sidenote: _Description of Tres Marias._]

_We whose Names are hereunto subscribed, being Members of a
Committee appointed to manage the Affairs of the_ Duke, Dutchess
_and_ Marquiss, _having recruited our Ships at these Islands, and
being in a readiness to put to Sea again; We have examin’d the
Opinion of Capt._ Dampier, _appointed Pilot by the Owners of the
Ships_ Duke _and_ Dutchess _in_ Bristol, _and have been well
informed from all the Intelligences we have frequently had from
Prisoners since our being in the_ South Seas, _and do now finally
determine to cruize off Cape_ St. Lucas, _the Southermost Cape of_
California, _in such Methods, and with such Signals to each other,
as shall be agreed on in our next Committee._