Chapter V: Part 5

The _Tapoyars_, who inhabit the inland Country on the West, are the most barbarous of the Natives, taller and stronger than the rest, and indeed than most _Europeans_. They wear little Sticks thro their Cheeks and Under-Lips, are Maneaters, and use poison’d Darts and Arrows. They change their Habitations according to the Season, and live chiefly by Hunting and Fishing. Their Kings and Great Men are distinguish’d by the manner of shaving their Crowns, and their long Nails. Their Priests are Sorcerers, make them believe that the Devils appear to ’em in form of Insects, and perform their diabolical Worship in the night, when the Women make a dismal howling, which is their chief Devotion. They allow Polygamy, yet punish Adultery by Death; and when young Women are marriageable, but courted by no body, their Mothers carry ’em to their Princes, who deflower ’em; and this they reckon a great Honour. Some of these People were much civiliz’d by the _Dutch_, and very serviceable

[Sidenote: _Account of the River Amazons._]

to them, but still kept under Subjection to their own Kings. For the extraordinary Animals, Plants, _&c._ of _Brazile_, I refer to _Newhoff_; being sensible that the Descriptions of such things are not my Province, but I thought it convenient to give this Hint for the Diversion of such Readers as may relish it better than a Mariner’s bare Journal.

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The River of the _Amazons_ being the Northern Boundary of _Brazile_, I shall describe it here.

According to most Geographers it rises in the Mountains of _Peru_, and is compos’d at first of two Rivers, one of which begins about Lat. 9. S. and the other about 15. The _Sansons_ call the latter _Xauxa_ or _Maranhon_, which communicates its Name to the other. ’Twas call’d _Amazons_, not because of any Nation of Virago’s, who as some fancy are govern’d by a Queen, and have no Commerce with our Sex; but at certain times, when they make an Appointment with the Males of neighbouring Nations, and if they prove with Child, keep the Daughters and send away the Sons, as the _Greeks_ fabled of their _Amazons_. But the true Reason of the Name is, that the _Spaniards_, who first discover’d it, were told of such a terrible barbarous Nation of Women by some of the Natives, on purpose to frighten them, and that they did actually on several places of this River find their Women as fierce and warlike as the Men; it being their Custom to follow their Husbands, _&c._ to War, on purpose to animate them, and to share in their Fate, as we find was antiently practis’d by the Women of _Gaul_, _Germany_, and _Britain_.

But to return to the Course of the River. The _Sansons_[102] give us a Map of it from the Discoveries of _Texeira_, who sail’d up and down the same in 1637, 1638, and 1639. The River, he says, begins at the foot of a Chain of Mountains nam’d _Cordelera_, about 8 or 10 Ls. East of _Quito_ in _Peru_. It runs first from West to East, turns afterwards South; and then after many Windings and Turnings holds its main Course East, till it falls into the _Atlantick_ Sea. Its Fountains and Mouth are very near under the Equator, and the main of its Stream is in the 4th and 5th deg. of S. Lat. The Rivers which fall into it on the North side, rise about one or two deg. N. Lat. and those on the South side, some of them begin in 10, some in 15, and others in the 21 ft of S. Lat. Its Channel from _Junta de los Reyos_ about 60 deg. from its Head, till it is join’d by the River _Maranhon_, is from one to two Leagues in breadth. From thence, say the _Sansons_, ’tis from 3 to 4, but grows larger as it advances towards the _Atlantick_, into which it falls by a Mouth from 50 to 60 Leagues broad, betwixt Cape _Nort_ on the Coast of _Guaiana_, and Cape _Zaparara_ on the Coast of _Brazile_. Its Depth from _Junta de los Reyos_ to _Maranhon_ is from 5 to 10 fathom, from thence to _Rio Negro_ from 12 to 20, and from thence to the Sea from 30 to 50, and sometimes a great deal more. ’Tis always of a good depth near the Shore, and has no Sand-Banks till it come towards the Sea. Its running in a continu’d Descent from West to East, makes the sailing down it very easy; and the East Winds, which last most part of the day, are very commodious for those who sail up this River. From the Fountain to its Mouth ’tis 8 or 900 Leagues in a direct Line, but the Windings and Turnings make it about 1200. Some compute it at 1800, and others 1276; but then they derive its Source from the Lake _Lauricocha_ near _Guanuco_ in _Peru_ about Lat. 10. Authors differ whether this River or _La Plata_ be the greatest, which I shall not take upon me to determine. The Rivers which run into it on the right and left, have their Courses from 100 to 600 Leagues in length, and their Banks are well inhabited by multitudes of People of different Nations, not so barbarous as those of _Brazile_, nor so polite as the Natives of _Peru_. They live chiefly upon Fish, Fruit, Corn and Roots; are all Idolaters, but pay no great Respect to their Idols, nor perform any publick Worship to them, except when they go upon Expeditions.

_Texeira_[103] and his Fellow-Discoverers say, that most of those Countries enjoy a temperate Air, tho in the middle of the Torrid Zone. This is probably owing to the multitude of Rivers with which they are water’d, the East Winds which continue most of the day, the equal Length of the Days and Nights, the great numbers of Forests, and the annual Inundations of the Rivers, which fructify this Country, as that of the _Nile_ does _Egypt_. Their Trees, Fields, and Flowers are verdant all the Year, and the Goodness of the Air prevents their being infested so much with Serpents and other dangerous Insects as _Brazile_ and _Peru_. In the Forests they have Store of excellent Honey, accounted very medicinal. They have Balm good against all Wounds. Their Fruit, Corn, and Roots, are not only in greater plenty, but much

[Sidenote: _Account of the River Amazons._]

better than any where else in _America_. They have vast number of Fish of all sorts in the Rivers and Lakes; and among others, Sea-Cows, which feed on the Banks, and Tortoises of a large Size and delicate Taste. Their Woods abound with Venison, and afford Materials for building the largest Ships. They have many Trees of five or six fathom round in the Trunk, and inexhaustible Stores of Ebony and _Brazile_ Wood, Cocoa, Tobacco, Sugar-Canes, Cotton, a Scarlet Dye call’d _Rocon_, besides Gold and Silver in their Mines and the Sand of their Rivers.

The Nations who inhabit about this and the other Rivers that run into it, are reckon’d by _Sanson_ and others 150, and their Villages so thick in many places, that most of ’em are within Call of one another. Among those People, the _Homagues_ who live towards the Head of this great River, are mostly noted for their Manufactures of Cotton; the _Corosipares_ for their Earthen Ware; the _Surines_ who live betwixt Lat. 5 and 10. and Long. 314 and 316, for their Joyners Work; the _Topinambes_ who live in a great Island of this River, about Lat. 4. and Longit. 320. for their Strength. Their Arms in general are Darts and Javelins, Bows and Arrows, with Targets of Cane or Fish-Skins. They make war upon one another to purchase Slaves for their Drudgery, but otherwise they treat them kindly enough.

Among the Rivers that fall into it on the North side, the _Napo_, _Agaric_, _Putomaye_, _Jenupape_, _Coropatube_, and others, have Gold in their Sands. Below _Coropatube_ there are Mines of several sorts in the Mountains. In those of _Yagnare_ there are Mines of Gold; in _Picora_ there are Mines of Silver; on the River _Paragoche_ there are precious Stones of several sorts; and Mines of Sulphur, _&c._ near other Rivers. Those of _Putomaye_ and _Caketa_ are large Rivers: the latter is divided into two Branches; one falls into the _Amazons_ River, by the name of _Rio Negro_, which is the largest on the North side; and the other, call’d _Rio Grande_, falls into the _Oronoko_. The chief Rivers that fall into it on the South side, are _Maranhon_, _Amarumaye_, _Tapy_, _Catua_, _Cusignate_, _Madere_ or _Cayane_, and many other large ones.

The _Sansons_ add, that on this River, about 200 Leagues from the Sea, there is a Bosphorus or Strait of one mile broad; that the Tide comes up hither, so that it may serve as a Key to all the Trade of those Countries: But the _Portuguese_ being already possess’d of _Para_ on the side of _Brazile_, _Corupa_ and _Estero_ on the side of _Guaiana_, and _Cogemina_ an Island at the mouth of it; they may, by fortifying the Island of the _Sun_, or some other place in its chief Outlet, be Masters of all the Trade.

_William Davis_[104] a _Londoner_, who liv’d in this Country some time, gives us this further Account of it, and of the Inhabitants about this River. They have Store of excellent Wild-Fowl in their Woods, and among others, Parrots as many as we have Pidgeons in _England_, and as good Meat. Their Rivers and Lakes abound with Fish, but such as catch them must be upon their guard against Crocodiles, Alligators, and Water-Serpents. The Country is subject to frequent and violent Storms of Rain, Thunder, and Lightning, which commonly hold 16 or 18 hours; and the Inhabitants are terribly pester’d with Muskettoes. There are abundance of petty Kings, who live upon their particular Rivers, on which they decide their Quarrels with Canoes, and the Conqueror eats up the Conquer’d; so that one King’s Belly proves another’s Sepulcher. The Regalia by which they are distinguish’d, is a Crown of Parrots Feathers, a Chain of Lion’s Teeth or Claws about their Necks or Middles, and a Wooden Sword in their hands. Both Sexes go quite naked, and wear their Hair long; but the Men pluck theirs off on the Crown. He says ’tis a question whether the Womens Hair or Breasts be longest. The Men thrust pieces of Cane thro the Foreskin of their _Pudenda_, their Ears and Under-Lips, and hang Glass-Beads at the Gristle of their Noses, which bob to and fro when they speak. They are thievish, and such good Archers, that they kill Fish in the water with their Arrows. They eat what they catch without Bread or Salt. They know not the Use of Mony, but barter one thing for another, and will give twenty Shillings worth of Provisions, _&c._ for a Glass-Bead or a Jews-Harp.

I come next to the Discovery of this River. When _Gonsales Pizarro_, Brother to _Francis_ that conquer’d _Peru_, was Governour of the North Provinces of that Country, he came to a great River where he saw the Natives bring Gold in their Canoes to exchange with the _Spaniards_. This put him upon a compleat Discovery of that River from its Fountains to its Mouth. In order to this, he sent out Capt. _Francisco de Orellana_[105] in 1540. with a Pinnace and Men: Some say

[Sidenote: _Account of the River Amazons._]

he went also himself, and sail’d down the River _Xauxa_ or _Maranhon_ 43 days, but wanting Provisions, commanded _Orellana_ to go in quest of some down the River, and to return as soon as he could; but _Orellana_ being carry’d down 200 Leagues thro a desert Country, the Stream was so rapid, that he found it impracticable to return, and therefore sail’d on till he came to that which is properly call’d the River of the _Amazons_. He had spent all his Provisions, and eat the very Leather on board; so that seven of his Men died of Want. In _January_ that Year, after sailing 200 Leagues further, he came to a Town on the Bank of the River, where the People were afraid of him, but at last furnish’d him with Provisions; and here he built a large Brigantine. He set out again the _2d_ of _Febr._ and 30 Leagues further was almost cast away by the violent Stream of a River which run into that of the _Amazons_ on the right side. He sail’d above 200 Leagues further, and was invited ashore in the Province of _Aparia_, where he discours’d several of their Caciques, who forewarn’d him of his Danger by the _Amazons_. He staid here 35 days, built a new Brigantine, and repair’d the other. He sail’d again in _April_ thro a desert Country, where he liv’d upon Herbs and toasted _Indian_ Wheat. On the _12th_ of _May_ he arriv’d at the populous Country of _Machiparo_, where he was attack’d by many Canoes full of Natives arm’d with long Shields, Bows and Arrows; but fought his way thro them till he came to a Town where he took Provisions by Force, after two hours fight with some thousands of the Natives whom he put to flight, and had 18 of his Men wounded, but all recover’d. He put off again, and was pursu’d two days by 8000 _Indians_ in 130 Canoes, till he was past the Frontiers of that Country. Then he landed at another Town 340 Leagues from _Aparia_, which being abandon’d by the Natives, he rested there three days, and took in Provisions. Two Leagues from hence he came to the mouth of a great River with three Islands, for which he call’d it _Trinity River_. The adjacent Country seem’d very fruitful, but so many Canoes came out to attack him, that he was forc’d to keep the middle of the Stream. Next day he came to a little Town, where he took Provisions again by force, and found abundance of curious earthen Ware finely painted, and several Idols of monstrous shapes and sizes. He also saw some Gold and Silver, and was told by the Inhabitants that there was abundance of both in the Country. He sail’d on 100 Leagues further, till he came to the Land of _Pagnana_, where the People were civil, and readily furnish’d him with what he wanted.

On _Whitsunday_ he pass’d by a great Town divided into many Quarters, with a Canal from each to the River. Here he was attack’d by Canoes, but soon repuls’d them with his Fire-Arms. He afterwards landed, and took Provisions at several Towns. He met with the Mouth of a River, the Water as black as Ink, and the Stream so rapid, that for 20 Leagues it did not mix with that of the _Amazons_. He saw several small Towns in his Passage, enter’d one by force, which had a Wall of Timber, and took abundance of Fish there. He pursu’d his Voyage by many great Towns and well-inhabited Provinces, by which time the River was grown so wide, that they could not see the one side from the other. Here he took an _Indian_, by whose Information he suppos’d this to be the proper Country of the _Amazons_. He sail’d on by many other Towns, and landed at one, where he found none but Women. He took abundance of Fish there, and resolv’d to have staid for some time; but the Men coming home in the Evening, they attack’d him, so that he ship’d off, and continu’d his Voyage. He saw several great Towns with pav’d Roads between Rows of Fruit-Trees into the Country, and landed for Provisions. The Inhabitants oppos’d him; but their Leader being kill’d, they fled and left him at liberty to carry off Provisions. From hence he sail’d to an Island for Rest, and was inform’d by a Female he had taken Prisoner, that there were Men like themselves in that Country, and some white Women, whom he conceiv’d to be _Spaniards_: she told him they were entertain’d by a Cacique. After several days sail, he came to another great Town, near which the _Indian_ told him those Whites did live. He kept on his Course, and after four days came to another Town, where the Natives were civil, furnish’d him with Provisions; and here he saw abundance of Cotton Cloth, and a Place of Worship hung with Weapons and two Mitres resembling those of a Bishop. He went to a Wood on the other side in order to rest, but was soon dislodg’d by the Natives. He saw several large Towns on both sides the River, but did not touch at them. Some days after they came to a Town where he got Provisions. After doubling a Point, he saw other large Towns, where the People stood ready on the Banks to oppose him. He offer’d ’em Toys in order to please them, but in vain. He continu’d his Voyage, and on the Banks saw several Bodies of People. He stood into

_Reproduction of the frontispiece to the first edition of Woodes Rogers’s book._]

[Sidenote: _Account of the River Amazons._]

them, and landing his Men, the Natives fought with great Resolution, ten or twelve being white Women of an extraordinary Size, with long Hair and all naked but their _Pudenda_, who seem’d to be their Commanders. They were arm’d with Bows and Arrows; and seven of ’em being kill’d, the rest fled. _Orellana_ had several Men wounded; and finding that multitudes of the Natives were marching against him, he sail’d off, reckoning that he had now made 1400 Leagues during his Voyage, but still did not know how far he was from the Sea. He afterwards came to another Town, where he met with the like Opposition: several of his Men were wounded, and his Chaplain lost an Eye. Here he observ’d several Woods of Oak and Cork-Trees: He call’d this Province by the name of _St. John’s_, because he came to it on that Saint’s Day. He sail’d on till he met with some Islands, where he was attack’d by 200 Canoes with 30 or 40 Men in each, abundance of Drums, Trumpets, and Pipes, _&c._ but he kept them off with his Fire-Arms. These Islands appear’d to be high, fruitful, and pleasant, and the largest of ’em about 50 Leagues long; but he could take in no Provisions, because the Canoes continually pursu’d him.

When he came to the next Province, he perceiv’d many large Towns on the Larboard side of the River: Multitudes of Natives came in their Canoes to gaze on him, and his _Indian_ Prisoner inform’d him that these Countries abounded with Gold and Silver. _Orellana_ was here oblig’d to barricade his Boats to cover his Men, because one of ’em was kill’d by a poison’d Arrow. As he sail’d on, he came to inhabited Islands, and perfectly discern’d the Tide. Here he was attack’d by multitudes of Canoes, and lost some more Men by poison’d Arrows. There were many Towns on the Starboard side of the River, and he found other inhabited Islands, where he got Provisions, but was attack’d and beat off when he landed on the Continent, till he came near the mouth of the River, where the People readily furnish’d him. He sail’d 200 Leagues among the Islands, where he found the Tide strong, and at last in _August_ that Year found a Passage to the Sea of about 50 Ls. wide, where the Tide rises five or six fathom, and the fresh Water runs 20 Leagues into the Sea; Esquire _Harcourt_,[106] in his Voyage to _Guiana_, says 30 Ls. and that the fresh Water there is very good. He was mightily distress’d for want of Rigging and Provisions till he came to the Island of _Cubagua_, from whence he went to _Spain_ to give the King an Account of his Discovery. The Manuscripts taken by Capt. _Withrington_[107] say that _Orellana_ was about a Year and half upon this River.

When he reported his Discoveries, the King of _Spain_ sent him back with a Fleet and 600 Men to take possession of this River in 1544, some say 1549, but the Project came to nothing: for the Captain himself, after he had sail’d up 100 Ls. died with 57 of his Men by the Unhealthiness of the Air; and some of them sail’d 60 Ls. higher, where they were friendly entertain’d by the Natives, but being too few to pursue the Discovery, they return’d to the Island _Margarita_, where they found _Orellana’s_ Lady, says _Heerera_, who told them that her Husband died of Grief for the Loss of so many of his Men by Sickness and the Attacks of the _Indians_. And thus they return’d _re infecta_: so that _Orellana_ receiv’d no other Advantage for his Danger and Expence, but the Honour of the first Discovery, and having the River call’d by his name in some Authors. _Ovalle_ says that he lost half his Men at the _Canaries_ and Cape _Verd_, and his Fleet was reduc’d to two large Boats before he came back to the River; so that he was too weak to attempt a further Discovery.

The Manuscripts taken by Capt. _Withrington_ say the second Person who attempted it was _Leus de Melo_ a _Portuguese_, by order of his Sovereign King _John_ III. to whom the Country from the mouth of this River to that of _La Plata_ belong’d, according to the Partition agreed on betwixt the _Portuguese_ and the _Spaniards_. He had ten Ships and 800 Men, but lost eight of his Ships at the mouth of the River; so that he went to the Island _Margarita_, from whence his Men were dispers’d all over the _Indies_. Two or three Captains from the Kingdom of _New Granada_ attempted it afterwards by Land, but without Success.

In 1560. those of _Peru_ try’d it another way. The Viceroy sent _Pesdro de Orsua_, a Native of _Navarre_, with 700 Men to the Head of this River, where he built Pinnaces and Canoes; and having furnish’d himself with Provisions, and taken 2000 _Indians_ with many Horses on board, he imbark’d on the

[Sidenote: _Account of the River Amazons._]

River _Xauxa_ or _Maranhon_. He sail’d till he came to a plain Country, where he began to build a Town: but his Men not being us’d to such Labour, and fatigu’d by the hot and rainy Seasons, they murmur’d, tho they had Provisions enough, and a great prospect of finding Store of Gold. The Mutineers were headed by _Lopez de Agira_ a _Biscayner_, who had been an old Mutineer in _Peru_; and being join’d by _Ferdinand de Guzman_ a _Spanish_ Soldier, and one _Saldueno_ who was enamour’d on _Orsua’s_ beautiful Lady, they murder’d him when asleep, with all his Friends and chief Officers. Then they proclaim’d _Guzman_ their King, but 20 days after he was also murder’d by _Lopez_, who assum’d the Title to himself. Being a Fellow of mean Birth, he murder’d all the Gentlemen in company, lest any of them should rival him; and having form’d a Guard of Ruffians about him, he became so jealous of his new Dignity, and was so conscious of what he deserv’d, that when any of the Men talk’d together, he concluded they were plotting against him, and sent his Ruffians to murder them. Abundance of the rest and the Women falling sick, he barbarously left them to the mercy of the Natives, and sail’d to the Island _Margarita_ with 230 Men. He was “well entertain’d by the Governour, who took him to be one of the King’s Officers; but this ungrateful Villain did speedily murder him and his Friends, ravag’d the Island, forc’d some Soldiers to go along with him, and pretended to conquer the _Indies_; but was defeated, taken and hang’d by the Governour of _New Granada_. The Wretch murder’d his own Daughter that she might not be insulted by his Enemies, and then attempted to murder himself, but was prevented. Thus concluded that fatal Expedition.

The _Sansons_ say the next Attempt was by those of _Cusco_ in 1566. but it came to nothing; for their Leaders fell out and fought with one another, which made the rest a Prey to the Natives: or that only _Maldonado_ one of their Captains and two Priests escap’d to carry home the News.

Two of the Generals of _Para_ and Governours of _Maranhon_ were the next that renew’d the Attempt by the King’s Command, but met with so many cross Accidents that they could not effect it.

In 1606. two Jesuits set out from _Quito_, thinking to reduce the Country on this River by their Preaching: but one of them was kill’d by the Natives, and the other narrowly escap’d, says _Ovalle_.

The next Discovery was by Capt. _John de Palacios_. Authors differ as to the time; but most agree ’twas in 1635. He set out from _Quito_ with a few arm’d Men and _Franciscan_ Fryars, sail’d down the River till he came to _Annete_, where he was kill’d in 1636. and most of his Companions return’d, except two Monks and five or six Soldiers, who sail’d down in a little Vessel as far as _Para_ the Capital of _Brazile_; where they acquainted _Texeira_ the _Portuguese_ Governour with their Discovery: who upon their Information sent 47 Canoes with 70 _Spaniards_ and 1200 _Indians_ to sail up the River under _Texeira_ the Sailor. He set out in _October_ 1637. and met with several Difficulties, which occasion’d many of the _Indians_ to forsake him; but he went on, and sent a Captain with eight Canoes to make Discoveries before him. This Captain arriv’d _June_ 24. 1638. at a _Spanish_ Town built at the Conflux of the Rivers _Huerari_ and _Amazons_, and dispatch’d a Canoe to acquaint _Texeira_ with it. This encourag’d him to proceed till he came to the Mouth of the River _Chevelus_, where it falls into the _Amazons_, and there he left part of his Men under a Captain, and the rest at _Junta de los Rios_ under another; while himself with a few went forward to _Quito_. The other Captain arriv’d there some time before, and both were well receiv’d by the _Spaniards_, to whom they reported their Discovery in _September_ 1638. The Men he left behind were well entertain’d by the Natives at first, but quarrelling with them afterwards, suffer’d much for want of Provisions, and had little but what they took by force.

Upon the News of this Discovery, the Count _de Chinchon_ Viceroy of _Peru_ sent Orders from _Lima_ to furnish _Texeira_ with all Necessaries for his Return down the River, and appointed Father _d’Acugna_, Rector of the College of _Cuenca_, and another Jesuit, to attend him and carry the News to _Spain_. They set out in _February_ 1639. and arriv’d at _Para_ in _December_ following; from whence _d’Acugna_ went to _Spain_, and publish’d his Account of this River in 1640.

[Sidenote: _Account of the River Amazons._]

The Sum of his Discovery, besides what has been mention’d already, is as follows. There’s a Tree on the Banks of this River call’d _Andirova_, from whence they draw an Oil that is a Specifick for curing Wounds. There’s plenty of Iron-Wood, so nam’d because of its Hardness, Red-Wood, Log-Wood, _Brazile_, and Cedars so large, that _Acugna_ says he measur’d some that were 30 span round the Trunk. They have Timber enough to build Ships, make Cordage of the Barks of Trees, and Sails of Cotton, but want Iron. They make Hatchets of Tortoise-shells, or hard Stones ground to an Edg; and Chizzels, Planes, and Wimbles of the Teeth and Horns of wild Beasts. Their chief Directors are Sorcerers, who are the Managers of their hellish Worship, and teach them how to revenge themselves on their Enemies by Poison and other barbarous methods. Some of them keep the Bones of their deceas’d Relations in their Houses; and others burn them with all their Movables, and solemnize their Funerals first by mourning, and then by excessive drinking. Yet the Father says they are in general good-natur’d and courteous, and many times left their own Hutts to accommodate him and his Company. Some of these Nations, particularly the _Omaguas_, whose Country is 260 Leagues long, and the most populous on the River, are decently clad in Rayment of Cotton, and trade in it with their Neighbours. Some of the other Nations wear Plates of Gold at their Ears and Nostrils; and their Joiners are so expert, that they make Chairs and other Houshold Furniture in the shapes of several Animals with great Art.

The Jesuits of _Quito_ in _Peru_ have engrav’d a Map of this River, in which they give the following Account, _viz._ That ’tis the greatest in the known World: That tho it be call’d by the name of _Amazons_ or _Orellana_, its true name is _Maranhon_: That it rises from the Lake _Lauricocha_, as we have mention’d already, runs 1800 Leagues, and falls into the North Sea by 84 Mouths: That near the City _Borja_ it is pent up by a Strait call’d _El-Pongo_, not above 13 Fathom wide and 3 Ls. long; where the Stream is so rapid, that Boats run it in a quarter of an hour. The Truth of this must be submitted to the Judgment of the Reader, but it seems very improbable, since none of those who sail’d up and down this River describe it thus: besides, ’twere impossible to sail up against so rapid a Stream without a Tide, which the _Sansons_ say comes up to this Strait; but they make it a mile broad, and by consequence not so rapid. The Jesuits add, that both Banks from the City _Jaen_ in the Province of _Bracamoros_, where it begins to be navigable, down to the Sea, are cover’d with Woods of very tall Trees, among which there’s Timber of all colours, abundance of _Sarsaparilla_, and the Bark they call Cloves, which is us’d by Dyers and Cooks. In the neighbouring Woods there are many Tygers, wild Boars, and Buffaloes, _&c._ The Jesuits began their Mission upon this River in 1638. have their Capital at the City of _St. Francis_ of _Borja_ in the Province of _Manos_, 300 Leagues from _Quito_; and their Mission extends along three other Rivers as far as the Province of the _Omaguas_, whither they make sometimes long and dangerous Voyages in Canoes. They give an account of eight of their number that have been murder’d by the _Barbarians_, the last of them in 1707. Besides _Borja_ and its Dependencies, they have 39 Towns founded mostly by their own Labour and Charge, but we shan’t insist on their Names. Their Converts they reckon at 26000, and the Missionaries about 18. They add, that they have contracted Amity with several numerous Nations, whose Conversion they hope for.

The _Portuguese_ have some Towns at the Mouth of this River, and a Fort on _Rio Negro_; so that of late years they have traded much upon it, and, as several _Spaniards_ inform’d me, during the last Peace they extended their Commerce as far as _Quito_ and many other Places in _Peru_. I have insisted the longer on this River, because it is of so great Fame, and may be of mighty Advantage for Trade.

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The River of _La Plata_ being the South Boundary of _Brazile_, within the Limits of the _South-Sea_ Company, and lying conveniently for opening a great Trade from the North-Sea with _Peru_, _Chili_, and other vast Countries; I shall give a Description of it here, from the best Authors.

The first _European_ who discover’d it, seems to have been _Juan Dias de Solis_, who sailing from _Spain_ in 1512. some say 1515. run along the Coast of _Brazile_ till he came to this River, says _Ovalle_. With him agree the Manuscripts taken on some _Spanish_ Priests in this River by Capt. _Withrington_, publish’d in _Harris’s_ Collections[108]; where we are told, _De Solis_ obtain’d the Government of this River, but was murder’d by the Natives with most of his Men in 1515. The next who came hither was _Sebastian Cabot_ in 1526. but his Men being mutinous, he had not the desir’d Success, tho he sail’d 150, some say 200 Leagues up this River; and purchasing many Pieces of Gold and Silver Plate from the Natives, who call’d this River _Parama_, he call’d it the River of Plate, because he thought it to be the Product of the Country, which was afterwards found to be a Mistake. Yet upon his Report, in 1530. when he return’d, the Emperor _Charles_ V. sent Don _Peter Mendoza_, one of his chief Grandees, with 2200 Men besides Mariners, to plant a Colony here in

[Sidenote: _Account of the River La Plata._]

1535. and they had so great hopes of finding Mines of Gold and Silver, that above thirty Heirs of noble Families went on the Expedition; and sailing 50 Leagues up the River, where the Air was good, he founded a Town, which from thence was call’d _Buenos-Ayres_. They built a Fort, and enlarg’d the Town; but as they were carrying on their Work, the Natives attack’d them, and overpowering them with Numbers, kill’d 250, among whom were several of the chief Men. This oblig’d the _Spaniards_ to keep within their Fort, where they suffer’d much by Famine. _Mendoza_ return’d towards _Spain_, but died miserably, with many of his Companions, for want of Provisions by the way. His Deputy-Governour _Oyola_ sail’d up into _Paraguay_, in quest of a Country said to abound with Gold and Silver; but was treacherously slain by the Natives, with all his Followers.

_Irala_ who was his Deputy, and left at _Buenos-Ayres_, contracted a Friendship with some of the Natives call’d _Guaranians_. In 1538. he built _Assumption_ in their Country, which is now the Metropolis of _Paraguay_, and left _Buenos-Ayres_ for a time. _Assumption_ lies on the Banks of the River _Paraguay_, in S. Lat. 25. 240 Leagues from the Sea, and 40 from the Mouth of the River _Paraguay_, where it falls into _La Plata_, These Rivers after they join continue their natural Colour for several miles, _La Plata_ being clear, and _Paraguay_ muddy. The latter is by much the most considerable River, and the adjacent Country abounds with Mines of Gold and Silver, and is navigable above 200 Leagues. The River _Uruquay_ falls into _Paraguay_ on the right side, and runs a Course of 300 Leagues, according to _Sepp_ the Jesuit, who in his Voyage says ’tis as big as the _Danube_ at _Vienna_. In short, as to this River _La Plata_, Authors are not agreed. Some of the Jesuits who are Missionaries in those Countries think it to be the same with that call’d _Paraguay_ higher up in the Country, and that it has a Communication with the North-East Coast of _Brazile_ by the River _St. Meary_, which rises out of the same Lake, and runs N E. as _Paraguay_ or _Plata_ runs S. and afterwards to the S E. when it falls into the Sea. Be that how it will, here are many Rivers which fall into the same Channel on both sides. But that which is commonly call’d _La Plata_, begins near the Town of that Name about S. Lat. 19. and after running N. a little way, takes its Course S E. till it join the River _Paraguay_. So that I chuse rather to trust to the Account given us by Mr. _White_ our Linguist, who having dwelt long in that Country, told me this River derives its Name from the Town of _La Plata_, a sort of Metropolis to which there lies an Appeal from other Jurisdictions. He adds, that ’tis a pretty Town, has fourteen Churches with a Cathedral, and four Nunneries, and lies North-west from _Buenos-Ayres_ about 500 Leagues, which requires commonly two months and a half’s Travel.

All are agreed that _La Plata_ is very large at the Mouth, where some account it 50, and others 30 Leagues broad. The Mouth of it is dangerous because of Sands, and therefore requires Pilots. _Knivet_,[109] in his Description of the _West-Indies_, says, the best way to avoid those Sands is to keep near the North Shore till you come to a high Mountain white at top; and then to sail 4 Ls. South, to another small Hill on the North side, near which you must sail. This brings you into a fair Bay, where you must still keep along shore: and after passing the West Point of this Bay, you come to the River _Maroer_, and then there are no more Shoals between that and _Buenos-Ayres_.

_La Plata_ runs into the Sea about S. Lat. 35. and sometimes overflows the Country for several miles, when the Natives put their Goods into Canoes, and float about till the Inundation assuages, and then they return to their Habitations. _Ovalle_ gives the following Account of this River, _viz._ That it runs with such a mighty Stream into the Sea, as makes it fresh for a great way: That the Water of this River is very sweet, clears the Voice and Lungs, and is good against all Rheums and Defluxions: That the People who dwell about it have excellent Voices, and are all inclin’d to Musick: That it petrifies the Branches of Trees, and other things which fall into it; and that Vessels are naturally form’d of its Sand, which are of various Figures, look as if they were polish’d by Art, and keep Water very cool. It breeds great store of excellent Fish of divers sorts, and most beautiful Birds of all kinds are seen on its Banks. _Sepp_ informs us, that this River and _Uraguay_ abound so with Fish, that the Natives catch great numbers of them without any other Instrument than their Hands: one of the choicest, call’d the Kings-Fish, is small without Bones, and taken only in Winter. Our Author, says he never saw any _European_ Fish in this latter, except one that the _Spaniards_ call _Bocado_; and that the Fish are larger here than ours, of a dark or yellow colour, and well tasted; which he ascribes to the nature of

[Sidenote: _Account of the River La Plata._]

the Water, that tho drunk in great quantities even after raw Fruit, helps Digestion, and never does any hurt. The Plains about this River are so large and even, without any Obstruction to the Sight, that the Sun seems to rise and set in them. Their way of travelling in those Plains is by high Carts cover’d with Hoops and Cows-Hides like our Waggons, with Conveniency for Travellers to sleep in the bottom; which is so much the better, because they travel most by night to avoid the Heat. They are drawn by Oxen, which are frequently so pinch’d by Drought, that when they come towards any Water, which they smell at a great distance, they run furiously to it, and drink up the very Mud which they raise with their Feet. This obliges Travellers to furnish themselves with Water and other Provisions for their Journy; there being no Water to be had, except by Rain: so that Travellers are frequently as much distress’d for want of Water as the Oxen, and can scarce get any that’s clear at the Watering-places, tho they send before-hand, because the Oxen run with so much haste to it that they make it all in a puddle: _Ovalle_ says, that in this case Travellers are forc’d to stop their Noses and shut their Eyes when they drink it. The Journy thro these Plains is at least 14 or 20 days, without any place of shelter, or any Firing to dress their Victuals but the dry’d Dung of Cattle. Yet there are several Lakes and Ponds where Inns might be fix’d, but ’tis neglected because there’s no settled Trade that way.

It remains to give some account of the Towns upon the River _Plata_ and on the Road to _Potosi_. 1. _Buenos-Ayres_ lies upon the River 50 Leagues from the Sea, about Lat. 36. Our Linguist inform’d me that ’tis the Residence of a _Spanish_ Governour, is defended by a Stone Fort mounted with 40 Guns, and is generally garison’d by 4 or 500 Men. The Harbour is pretty good, but troublesom in a N W. and W. Wind. The River is 7 Ls. broad there, and navigable by Ships 60 Ls. above the Town, but no further, because of a great Cataract. The Town has one Cathedral, and five other Churches: The _Portuguese_ had a Settlement over against this Town, but were dislodg’d by the _Spaniards_ at the beginning of this War; since which time the _French_ drive a _Guinea_ Trade hither for Negroes, who are sent over Land to _Peru_ and _Chili_, and yield them vast Profit. The Trade from hence to _Spain_ is in Hides and Tallow, Silver from _Peru_, and Gold and Silver from _Chili_. All _European_ Goods yield a good Price here. They have plenty of Fruit-Trees about the Town of all kinds, both of the hot and cold Climates; and have store of Wheat and other _European_ Grain, besides _Indian_ Corn. Thousands of Cattel of all sorts run wild in the Neighbourhood, and they furnish _Peru_ with 50000 Mules _per ann._ In short, this place lies very convenient for Commerce in Silver and Gold, and the other Commodities of _Peru_ and _Chili_, which the _French_ have now begun to engross. They sent three Ships to those parts and the _South-Sea_, under M. _de Beauchesne Gouin_[110] of _St. Malo_ in 1698, of whose Progress I shall give a further account from a Copy of his Journal, as I go on with my Description of the Coasts. Their Winter here is in _May_, _June_, and _July_, when ’tis cold by night, but warm enough by day, the Frost never being violent, nor the Snow considerable in those parts.

Father _Sepp_,[111] who was here in 1691. tells us in his Voyage from _Spain_ to _Paraquaria_ or _Paraguay_, that _Buenos-Ayres_ has only two Streets built crosswise; that there are four Convents, one of which belongs to the Jesuits; that their Houses and Churches are built of Clay, and not above one Story high; that the Jesuits have taught them of late to burn Lime, and make Tiles and Bricks, with which they now begin to build. The Castle is likewise of Clay, encompass’d with an earthen Wall and a deep Trench, and defended by 900 _Spaniards_; tho in case of necessity above 30000 _Indian_ Horse might be arm’d out of the several Cantons, where they have been train’d by the Jesuits: But this boasting Account I can’t believe. They have in the Neighbourhood whole Woods of Peach, Almond, and Fig-Trees, which they propagate by putting the Kernels in the Ground: they grow so fast as to produce Fruit the first Year, and their Timber is us’d for Fewel. The adjacent Pastures are so fat and large, that many thousands of Beeves feed together; so that any one when he pleases goes into the Field, throws a Rope about their Horns, brings ’em home and kills ’em. They are very large, generally white, and being so numerous, are valu’d only for their Hides, Tallow, and Tongues; the rest being expos’d to the Birds and Beasts of Prey, which are very numerous, and frequently destroy the Calves. The Natives feed most on Beef half-raw without Bread or Salt, and in such quantities that they throw

[Sidenote: _Account of the River La Plata._]

themselves naked into cold Water, that they may retain the natural Heat within their Entrails to help Digestion; and sometimes they lie down with their Stomachs in hot Sand: but their Gluttony in devouring so much raw Flesh fills them so with Worms, that they seldom live till 50 Years old. There are such numbers of Partridges here, and so tame, that they knock them down with sticks as they walk in the fields. The Missionaries, who are absolute Masters of the Natives in the neighbouring Cantons of _Paraguay_, &c. suffer none of ’em to come nearer _Buenos-Ayres_ than two or three Leagues, on pretence that they would be corrupted by the ill Example of the _Spaniards_; and under that same pretence they won’t suffer the _Spaniards_ to settle in their Missions, which extend above 200 Leagues up the River; nor do they allow Merchants who trade thither to stay above a few days; the true cause of which is, they are not willing that the Laity should be privy to the Wealth they heap up there, in a Country which abounds with Gold, nor be Witnesses to their splendid, or rather luxurious way of living. Sometimes Complaints of this Procedure of the Jesuits have been made to the _Spanish_ Governours, but they find a way to bribe them to silence. This I was inform’d of by those who have been among them, and am confirm’d in it by Father _Sepp_: He does not dissemble that the Missionaries have a Despotical Power over the Natives, tho he gives it another Turn, and pretends that ’tis necessary in order to convert and force them to work. He says the Jesuits are Captains, teach them the Use of Arms, and how to draw up into Squadrons and Battallions; which he boasts they can do as well as the _Europeans_. The Jesuits obtain’d this Power, on the specious Pretence of reducing those _Indians_ to the Obedience of the _Spaniards_, which they would not submit to till within these few Years. This Management is so much the more easily carry’d on, because the Ecclesiastical Government there is lodg’d in the hands of one Bishop only and three Canons; and the Missionaries being compos’d of all Nations, few of them have any natural Affection to the _Spanish Government_. This is the more to be observ’d, because the Jesuits being an intriguing Society, and generally in the _French_ Interest, it would seem to be the Concern of the Allies to recover the Trade of those Countries from the House of _Bourbon_ with all possible speed, left by making themselves Masters of the vast Treasures of _Peru_ and _Chili_, they be enabled at last to compleat their Design of an Universal Monarchy. Father _Sepp_ says, that Silver in 1691. was cheaper here than Iron; that for a Twopenny Knife one may have a Crown, for a Hat of two Shillings 10 or 12 Crowns, and for a Gun of ten or twelve Shillings 30 Crowns; that Provisions are so plenty here, that a fat Cow may be bought for the Value of 10 _d._ or 12 _d._ a good Ox for a few Needles, a stout Horse for about 2 _s._ that he has seen two given for a Knife not worth 6 _d._ and that he and his Company had 20 Horses for a few Trifles that did not cost them a Crown; being only a few Needles, Fish-Hooks, sorry Knives, Tobacco, and a little Bread. He mentions a Cataract in the River _Uruquay_, which he says Providence has plac’d here for the advantage of the poor _Indians_ against the Avarice of the _Spaniards_; who not being able to go further with their Vessels, have been hitherto confin’d to _Buenos-Ayres_, and could not settle in those Cantons, tho very inviting, because of the vast Profit they might draw from them. This he reckons a great Happiness to the Natives, who being a simple People, would not only be soon infected with the Vices of the _Spaniards_, but enslav’d by ’em: for, says he, they make no difference betwixt Pagan and Christian Natives, but treat them promiscuously like Dogs. He adds, that this Province of _Paraquaria_ or _Paraguay_ exceeds in bigness _Germany_, _France_, _Italy_, and the _Netherlands_ put together; (wherein I doubt he exceeds:) That they have no Cities, and are govern’d by 80 Colleges of Jesuits, in which there are no more than 160 Persons; and that these Colleges are from 100 to 600 Miles distant from one another. There’s one Plain of 200 Leagues long betwixt _Buenos-Ayres_ and _Corduba_ in _Tucuman_, without so much as a Tree or Cottage, and yet it contains the best Pastures in the World, fill’d with Cattel of all sorts which have no Owners.

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He describes the Natives thus: The Men are not quite so tall as _Europeans_, but have thick Legs and large Joints. Their Faces are round, flattish, and of an Olive Colour; and their Arms are Bows and Arrows. Some of the strongest have many Scars on their Bodies, occasion’d by Wounds which they gave themselves when young, that these Scars may be remaining Proofs of their Courage. Their Hair is black, long, and as strong as that of a Horse. The Women look more like Devils than rational Creatures, with their Hair loose over their Foreheads, and the rest twisted in Locks behind, which hang as low as their Hips. Their Faces are wrinkled, their Arms, Shoulders and Breasts naked; and their Ornaments are Fish-Bones made like Scales of Mother-of-Pearl about their Necks, Arms and Hands. The Wives of their Caciques or petty Princes wear a sort of Triple Crowns of Straw. The Caciques wear Doe-Skins hanging over their shoulders; the rest only a piece of a Skin wrap’d about their middle, and hanging down before to their knees. The Boys and Girls are quite naked. They have holes in their Ears and Chins, in which they put Fish-Bones, or a colour’d Feather tied by a thred, and Feathers of several colours fasten’d to a string round their Necks. They wrap their Infants as soon as born in a Tyger’s Skin, give them the Breast for a little while, and then half-raw Meat to suck. He says, the Men at the death of their nearest Relations cut off a Finger of their own left Hand; and if it be a handsom Daughter, they make a Feast and drink out of her Skull. They live in Straw Hutts without Roofs, and their Utensils are a few Sticks for Spits, and Pumpkins hollow’d out, in which they eat their Meats. Their Beds are the Hides of Oxen or Tygers, spread on the ground; but the Caciques, and those of Note, lie in a Net fasten’d to two Poles for Hammocks, at some distance from the ground, being a Security against wild Beasts and Serpents. Our Author says that he sent well-boil’d Meat to several of them when sick, which they receiv’d thankfully; but afterwards gave it to their Dogs, because they lik’d their own Cookery better.

It is now time to see how the Missionaries live among those Flocks over whom they assume the Pastoral Care. Father _Sepp_ tells us, that he and other new Missionaries were welcom’d by some of them with 20 Musicians in a Train, abundance of Boats equip’d like Galleys lin’d with Firelocks, and having Drums, Trumpets, and Hautboys on board. The Missionaries brought ’em Sweatmeats, and all sort of Fruit; and the _Indians_ diverted them by wrestling in the Water, and Salvoes of their Fire-Arms, _&c._ They conducted them thro a green Triumphal Arch to the Church, where the Women were so earnest at their Devotion, that not one of them cast an eye upon our Father and his Companions: so that here were a Militant and a Triumphant Church both together. When the Devotion was over, the chief of the _Indians_ welcom’d the Father and the rest of the Missionaries, by a short but very pathetick Speech; and one of the _Indian_ Women did the like with wonderful Elegancy, says the Jesuit, who it seems is not against Women speaking in the Church. That and the next day they spent in Mirth and Jollity, and in the Evening were diverted by four Dances; 1. By Boys, who danc’d with Pikes and Lances. 2. By a couple of Fencing-Masters. 3. By six Seamen. 4. By six Boys on horseback, who afterwards gave them a kind of Tournament, the place being illuminated by Ox-Horns fill’d with Suet, for they have no Oil nor Wax. On _Whitsunday_, which happen’d soon after, the Missionaries went to Church, and return’d Thanks for so many Converts; as certainly they had reason, since they are such merry ones.