Chapter VI: Part 6

These Cantons, he says, are 26, and have but one or two Missionaries apiece, tho they contain from 3000 to 6000 People each, and sometimes more; so that they must either have too much work, or perform it very slightly, especially if they be so ignorant as our Father says, that if they be neglected one day, they scarce know how to make the Sign of the Cross the next: And besides all the Pastoral Work, the Missionaries must act the part of Clerks, and clean the Church-Ornaments and Plate; for these poor Wretches are uncapable of doing it. To be short, says he, the Missionary must be Cook, Nurse, Doctor, Architect, Gardiner, Weaver, Smith, Painter, Baker, Potter, Tile-maker, and every thing else that is necessary in a Commonwealth. This he supposes will appear incredible (and he’s certainly in the right) but he says ’tis the naked Truth; the Natives being so stupid, that unless he plainly shew his _Indian_ Cook how much Salt he must put in each Pot, he would put all into one, tho ever so much; and he must see them wash the Vessels, unless he would be poison’d: yet this Father, for all his other hard work, must look after his Garden, Orchard, and Vineyard, where he has all sorts of Flowers, Herbs, Roots and Fruits, and so many Vines as produce 500 large Casks of Wine in a Year, if not prevented by multitudes of Pismires, Wasps, Birds, or by the North Winds, which sometimes make Wine so dear, that a Cask yields 20 or 30 Crowns; and after all, ’tis not to be preserv’d from turning sour without a great mixture of Lime. The chief Distemper of the Natives is the Worms before-mention’d, the bloody Flux [dysentery] and spotted Fever, which frequently carry off great numbers. The Medicines which the Missionaries give against Worms, is a Vomit of Tabacco-Leaves; and after that, sour Lemon-Juice with those of Mint and Rue put into Milk.

[Sidenote: _Account of the River La Plata._]

These Cantons or Towns, he says, are generally upon an Ascent near the Rivers _Uruguay_ and _Paraguay_, and contain young and old from 6000 to 8000 Souls. Each Canton has a Church and a square Market-place near it, the rest being divided into Streets of Clay-Hutts cover’d with Straw, only of late they begin to use Tiles. They have no Windows, Chimneys, or different Apartments; and over the Fire-place they hang their Beds at night. Their Doors are Ox-Hides; and since all lie together in one Room, with their Dogs, Cats, _&c._ the Missionaries are entertain’d with very ungrateful Scents, besides Smoke, when they go to visit them. He says, in the main they are very patient under Distempers, and the Death of Relations; that they seek after no Riches but a present Maintenance; that their young Women are marriageable at 14, and the Men at 16, when the Missionaries take care to match them, otherwise they will pair themselves. There are no Disputes here about Dowries, Jointures, or Marriage-Settlements; the Agreement consists only in two Articles, _viz._ The Woman promises to fetch what Water the Husband wants from the River, and he engages to provide the Kitchin with Fewel. The Missionaries furnish them with Hutts, the Wedding-Clothes and Dinner. The Wedding-Suit is five yards of coarse woollen Stuff for each, the Dinner is a fat Cow, and the Bed some Ox-hides. He presents them also with a little Salt and a few Loaves, and then they treat their Parents. The Women court here, come to the Missionary, and tell him they have a mind to such a Man, if he will give his Consent; which if he do, the Match is made, and the Missionary is both Priest and Father.

How mean soever the Natives live, the Priests have enough of Splendor and Plenty. Their Churches and Steeples are lofty, have four or five Bells apiece, most of ’em a couple of Organs, Altars, and Pulpits richly gilt, Images well painted, plenty of Silver Candlesticks, Chalices, and other Church-Plate; and the Ornaments of the Priests and Altars are as rich as in _Europe_. They teach the Natives to sing and play on all Musical Instruments both for Devotion and War; so that according to the Jesuits they go now more merrily to Heaven than formerly they did to Hell, and the good Fathers divert themselves with Sets of Musicians on the Banks of the Rivers and in charming Islands. Nor can we wonder that they live so merrily, since they fare so well; for besides all sorts of delicious Fruits and Preserves, they have plenty of Fowl, Fish, and Venison of all sorts, as well as ordinary Butchers Meat; only the Tygers, which are very numerous, frequently put in for a share with them, invade their Flocks and their Followers: but if you’ll believe our Father, they never attack the Clergy, they have such a Respect for their Cloth, and are so civil to _Europeans_, that they’l charge the _Indians_ in their Company, and let them go scot-free; and the Serpents, which likewise abound here, are charm’d by _Ave Mary’s_ into the like Good-Manners. The Priests use Honey for their Sallets, for they have no Oil, so that they are very hard put to it. They had Silver in such plenty, says the Father, that old Shoes and Hats were much more valuable. And as if the Missionaries had not Work enough otherwise, Father _Sepp_ tells us, the Natives when they kill their Cows bring ’em to the good Jesuits to allow each their share; and to be sure the Hides fall to the Missionaries, for he says the three Ships which brought him and his Companions from _Spain_, carry’d back 300000 Ox-Hides, which they had for nothing, and each Hide he says would yield ’em six Crowns at home. A good Horse-shoe he says is here worth six Horses, and the Bit of a Bridle worth three. An Ell of Linen is worth four or five Crowns; for they have no Hemp or Flax, but store of Cotton: and one Sheep, Lamb or Kid, is for the sake of the Wool worth three Oxen or Cows. Tho the Natives, he says, are so dull that they can’t do the most frivolous thing without direction, yet they are so good at Imitation, that if you give them Models, they will make any thing very well. Thus he says the _Indian_ Women after ripping a piece of Bone-Lace with a Needle, will make one by the same pattern very exactly; and so the Men do Trumpets, Hautboys, Organs, or Watches; and copy Pictures, Printing and Writing to admiration.

[Sidenote: _Account of the River La Plata._]

But they are so lazy that they must be forc’d to their work by blows, at the direction of the Missionaries, who tho they convert ’em themselves, make them cudgel one another. This they take very patiently, give no ill Language, but cry _Jesu Maria!_ and thank the good Fathers into the bargain for taking such care of ’em; so that they have learnt Passive-Obedience to perfection. But to make them amends, our Author says the Missionaries teach their young ones to dance as well as to sing in the Church, when they are habited in rich Apparel: so that they are extremely taken with the Ornaments of our Religion, says he, which raises in them a high Esteem and Affection; and indeed ’twould be a wonder if it should not. The Missionaries do now take care to instruct both Sexes in all necessary Employments, Reading, Writing, _&c._ They have also taught ’em to make Images, especially of our Lady of _Ottingen_; and very good reason, for if we believe _Sepp_, she has done abundance of Miracles there. The Fathers wear Caps like a Bishop’s, and black Linen Cassocks when they go abroad; and instead of Canes use Crosses, which have a peculiar Virtue to knock Serpents o’ the head.

The Soil is so fruitful that it produces a hundred fold, tho sorrily manur’d. The Natives sow nothing but _Turky_ Wheat, and scarce enough of that, they are so lazy: and are likewise such bad Husbands, that they would eat all at once, did not the Missionary force ’em to lay it up in his Barn, where he distributes it to ’em as they want, and so he does their Flesh. They have no Mills, but pround their Wheat in a Mortar, and make it into Cakes which they bake on Coals, or boil with their Meat. The Fathers have white Bread for themselves, which the Natives value so much, that they will give two or three Horses for a Loaf; and of these the Missionaries have good store, for they have always 40 or 50 Acres sow’d with Wheat for themselves: Land, Corn, Cattel, and every thing is theirs; so that they call all the People their Sons and Daughters, and perhaps there’s just cause enough to give many of ’em that Title. These Lords Proprietors assign every Family their number of Cows and Oxen to till their Ground, and to eat; tho one would think they might have enough for the taking, without asking any body’s leave: and yet our Father says he has been forc’d to chide his Parishioners for killing and eating their Oxen, and roasting them with their wooden Plows in the very Field while they were tilling the Ground; for which they pleaded in excuse that they and their Wives were hungry and weary: and yet there was no great reason for the latter, since their Plows, says our Author, don’t enter above three inches into the Ground. They need no Hay for their Cattel, since they go up to the knees in Grass all the year. This is the way of living in those Cantons, which the Missionaries call Reductions, because, if you’ll believe ’em, they have reduc’d them to Christianity by their Preaching, tho the _Spaniards_ could never do it by their Arms.

Our Linguist told me that the Road from _Buenos-Ayres_ to _Chili_ is only passable in the Summer Months, when Commodities are purchas’d at that Town, and transported by Land to _Chili_.

On that Road about 100 Leagues N. W. from _Buenos-Ayres_ lies the City of _Cordoua_, which is the See of a Bishop, has ten Churches, and an University. ’Twas founded in 1573. says F. _Techo_, by a Native of _Cordoua_ in _Old Spain_, when there were 60000 Archers reckon’d in its Territory, about 8000 of whom continu’d in subjection, but the others revolted. ’Tis now the Metropolis of the Province, and the Jesuits have a Chappel in their College there, which for Riches and Beauty may vie with the best in _Europe_. The Natives of this Country were very barbarous, made use of Sorcery to satisfy their Revenge, and of Philtres of their own Blood to gratify their Lust. Both Sexes daub’d their Faces with strange Colours, and each Village was govern’d by a Sorcerer, who pretended to be their Physician. To shew their Courage, they would draw Arrows thro the Skins of their Bellies, and they fought Duels with sharp Stones, standing foot to foot, and holding down their Heads to receive the Blows from one another by turns. He that struck first was reckon’d the most fearful: It was accounted disgraceful to dress their Wounds, and the Conqueror was applauded by hideous Shouts from the Spectators. ’Twas a long time before the Missionaries could reform those barbarous Customs.

Another Town on this Road is _Mendosa_, where they make large quantities of Wine, Brandy, and Oil.

So much for that part of this vast Country which lies towards _Chili_ and _Brazile_: I shall next come to that part which lies towards _Peru_, and particularly the Road to _Potosi_ and the Mines.

_Santa-Fe_ is the next _Spanish_ Settlement of note to _Buenos-Ayres_, from which it lies 80 Leagues N W. at the mouth of a River which falls into _La Plata_. The Country betwixt this Town and _Buenos-Ayres_ is fruitful, well inhabited by _Spaniards_ and _Indians_, and produces Wheat from forty to an hundred fold, and abounds with Cattel. The Town is encompass’d with a River, and built of Brick. Our Prisoners and Linguist told us that there are Mines of Gold and Silver in the Neighbourhood, but the _Spaniards_ don’t care to open them, because the Conveniency of sailing up the River might encourage Enemies to invade and take them from ’em. This Town was built by the _Spaniards_ when they first settled, for the Defence of this River.

[Sidenote: _Account of the River La Plata._]

_St. Jago de l’Istero_ 200 Leagues N W. from _Santa-Fe_, is a pretty Town govern’d by a Corregidore, has three Churches, and lies on the River that runs down to _Santa-Fe_. Hither the Plate is brought from _Potosi_ on Mules, because the Roads are bad; and from hence it is carry’d to _Buenos-Ayres_ by Waggons. Next to this Town lies _St. Miquel de Toloman_ 200 Leagues N W. Then _Salta_ 150 Leagues. This Town contains six Churches. Then _Ogui_ 50 Leagues further, which has five Churches.

_Potosi_ is next, lies N. of the Tropick of _Capricorn_ about S. Lat. 21. Long. 73. Our Linguist tells us the City is large, has ten Churches govern’d by an Arch-Priest. The Town stands at the bottom of that call’d _the Silver Hill_, which is round like a Sugar-Loaf. There are 1500 or 2000 _Indians_ constantly at work in the Mines here; they have two Reals a day, and are paid every Sunday. The Mines are a hundred fathom deep, and the Silver is grown much scarcer of late. Provisions are scarce at this Town, and they have no Firing but Charcoal, which is brought from 30 to 50 Ls. distance. They have great Frosts and Snow here in _May_, _June_, and _July_. _Knivet_ in his Remarks says, in his time they were well supply’d here with all things from the _South-Sea_, and that the Natives in the adjoining Country traffick’d in Gold and precious Stones; and hundreds of ’em ply’d upon the Road to carry Passengers from Town to Town in Nets fasten’d to Canes, and supported by two or more Men; which was the easiest way of travelling, and they desir’d no other Reward but a Fish-Hook and a few Glass-Beads. They have also Sheep of an extraordinary Size, with large Tails, upon which they carry’d Jars of Oil and Wine. He says the rich Oar when taken out of these Mines looks like Black Lead, then they grind it by certain Engines, and wash it thro fine Sieves into pav’d Cisterns. They make the _Indians_ and other Slaves work quite naked in the Mines, that they mayn’t hide any thing.

The Curious who would know more of the Manners of the Natives, or the History and particular Product of this large Country, may find it in _Gemelli_,[112] Father _Sepp_, and Father _Techo_,[113] but this is enough for my purpose, to shew what a vast Field of Trade may be open’d here, and how dangerous it may prove to all _Europe_, if the House of _Bourbon_ continue possess’d of that Trade.

Some being of Opinion that our _South-Sea_ Company may possess themselves, by virtue of the late Act, of the River _de la Plata_, as far up that River and Country as they please, either in the Provinces of _Paraguay_ or _Tucuman_; I shall give a further Description of those large Provinces, after taking notice that according to several of our Draughts _Paraguay_ lies both on the E. and W. side of the River _La Plata_; according to others, entirely on the E. side, and _Tucuman_ on the W. side. The _Sansons_ make _Paraguay_ 720 miles from S. to N. and 480, where broadest, from E. to W. and place it betwixt S. Lat. 14 & 24. Long. 315 & 325. but the Breadth is not equal. Father _Techo_ says the River _Paraguay_, which gives name to the Country, is one of the greatest in _America_, receives several other large Rivers, runs 300 Leagues before it falls into the _Parana_, about 200 from the Sea is navigable, and together with the _Parana_ forms the River _La Plata_. The word _Paraguay_ in the Language of the Country signifies the Crown’d River, because the Inhabitants wear Crowns of Feathers of several beautiful Colours, which they have from the Birds that abound in that Country. I shall not insist upon the several Nations that inhabit it, among whom the _Garanians_ are the chief, and submitted first to the _Spaniards_; but growing weary of the Slavery they subjected them to, revolted, and were with much difficulty subdu’d after their Leaders were cut off, about 1539. The chief Discovery of this Country is owing to _Dominick Irala_, who in the Reign of the Emperor _Charles_ V. was sent by the Governour _Alvar Nunez Cabeca de Vaca_ with 300 chosen Men, and went 250 Leagues up this River, to endeavour a Communication with _Peru_, but was oppos’d by some of the Natives, of whom 4000 were kill’d, and 3000 taken in a Battel. The Governour went afterwards on the Discovery himself, and sailing up the River, came to a delicious Island, which his Men call’d _Paradise_, and would have settled there, but he dissuaded them, and advancing to the Borders of _Peru_, found a large Town of 8000 Houses deserted by the Inhabitants, who were affrighted with the noise of the _Spanish_ Fire-Arms. ’Tis said they found in this Town a great Market-place, with a wooden Tower in form of a Pyramid built in the middle, and a monstrous Serpent kept in it by which the Devil pronounc’d Oracles: this Serpent they kill’d with their Fire-Arms. But a Difference happening betwixt the Officers and Soldiers about dividing the Booty, they return’d to _Assumption_ without pursuing the Discovery any further.

[Sidenote: _Account of the River La Plata._]

This Province, till that of _Tucuman_ was taken from it, contain’d all the Country betwixt _Brazile_ and _Peru_. Our Author adds, that besides the Towns above-mention’d the _Spaniards_ built here _Corientes_ on the Conflux of the _Paraguay_ and _Parana_, which is but a small Town, no way suiting the Dignity of those two Rivers: That 100 Leagues up the _Parana_, in the Province of _Guirana_, the _Spaniards_ built two little Towns call’d _Villarica_ and _Guaira_; that on the upper part of the _Paraguay_ they built _Xeres_ and another _Villarica_, to join _Paraguay_ on that side to the further Provinces; and lastly, the City of _Conception_ on the Marshes of the red River which falls into _Parana_, and was of great use to curb the fierce Nations in the Neighbourhood. He adds, that all these Towns were first planted by a Race of the noblest Families in _Spain_. He mentions an extraordinary Herb here call’d _Paraguay_ by the name of the Country; it grows in marshy Grounds, and the Leaves being dry’d and powder’d, and mix’d with warm Water, the _Spaniards_ and Natives drink it several times a day, which makes them vomit, and strengthens their Appetite. They look upon it as a sort of Catholicon, use it so much that they can’t live without it; and this Custom has so much overspread the neighbouring Provinces, that the Inhabitants will sell any thing to purchase it, tho the excessive Use of it occasions the same Distempers as the immoderate Use of Wine. They did so fatigue the Natives to gather and powder this Herb, that multitudes of ’em died; and this, with other slavish Employments, did much dis-people the Country. The Natives live mostly by Fishing, Hunting, and Shooting.

[Sidenote: _Account of the River La Plata._]

_Tucuman_ is 300 Leagues long, but varies much in breadth. ’Tis inhabited by four Nations: The furthest South have no fix’d Dwellings, live by Fishing and Hunting, and carry about Mats to serve them for Tents. The North People live in Marshes, and feed most on Fish. The Southern People are the tallest, but the Northern the fiercest; and many of them live in Caves, but those nearest _Peru_ in Villages. They are all very slothful, and have store of Brass and Silver, but make little use of them. They have large Sheep which carry their Burdens, and their Wool is almost as fine as Silk. They have many Lions, not so large and fierce as those of _Africa_, but their Tygers are fiercer than those of other Countries. Their two chief Rivers are _Dulce_ and _Salado_, so call’d from the sweet and salt Taste of their Waters. They have multitudes of Springs and Lakes, some of which have a petrifying quality. The Country was formerly very populous, but their Numbers are much decreas’d since the _Spaniards_ planted among them. They easily subdu’d this Country, which was govern’d by abundance of petty Princes continually at war with one another. This Province was first discover’d in 1530. by one _Cæsar_ a Soldier belonging to _Sebastian Cabot_, and three more, at the time when _Pizarro_ took _Atabalipa_ the Great _Inga_ of _Peru_. In 1540. the Viceroy of _Peru_, _Vaca de Castro_, assign’d this Country to _John Rojas_ as a Reward for his Services. He went thither with 200 _Spaniards_, but was kill’d on the Frontiers by a poison’d Arrow, and his Men under _Francis Mendoza_ march’d thro to the River of Plate. _Mendoza_ being kill’d as going up that River by Mutineers, _John Nunez Prada_ was sent hither by the Viceroy _Peter Gasca_, subdu’d the _Indians_, built the Town of _St. Michel_ on the Banks of the River _Escava_, and settled Fryars there. This Province was afterwards subjected to _Chili_; and _Francis d’Acquire_ being sent thither with 200 _Spaniards_, destroy’d _St. Michel_, and built _St. Jago_, now the Metropolis of _Tucuman_, on the River _Dulce_, in S. Lat. 28. says _Techo_, but others place it on the River _Salado_. ’Tis the same Town I have already describ’d. In 1558. _Tarita_ being made Governour of this Province, built the City of _London_ near the Borders of _Chili_, about Lat. 29. calling it so out of compliment to Q. _Mary_ of _England_, at that time marry’d to _Philip_ II. of _Spain_. This Town serv’d to curb the Natives. _Tarita_ did likewise rebuild _St. Michel_, and reduc’d the Country so much, that 80000 _Indians_ who submitted to _Spain_ were muster’d in the Territory of _St. Jago_. The _Spaniards_, as was usual in those days, fighting with one another about the Command of the Provinces, _Tarita_ was drove out in 1561. by _Castaneda_; so that most of the Natives revolted, till 1563. that _Francis d’Acquire_ reduc’d ’em again, and built _Esteco_ above-mention’d. But the _Spaniards_ contending afterwards with one another about the Government, many of their Settlements were destroy’d; so that in _Techo’s_ time the chief Places remaining in this Country were _St. Jago_, _Cordoua_, _St. Michel_, _Salta_ or _Lerma_, _Xuxui_ or _St. Salvador_, _Rioja_, _Esteco_ or _Nuestra Señora de Talavera_, _London_, and a few other small Garisons. He says that in this Country it does not rain in Winter, but in Summer they have thick Mists and Rains enough. The Jesuits are the chief Missionaries here, and settled in the principal Towns. He adds, that near the City _Conception_, which is ninety Leagues from _St. Jago_, the Natives were call’d _Frontones_, because they made the Fore-part of their Heads bald. Their Arms were a Club at their Girdle, Bows and Arrows, and Staves set with Jawbones of Fishes. They went naked, and painted their Bodies to make them look terrible. They were continually at War among themselves about the Limits of their Land, and they fix’d the Bodies of their slain Enemies in Rows to the Trunks of Trees, that others might be afraid of invading their Borders.

He adds, that the Country about _St. Michael_ is well peopled, abounds with Woods, and all sorts of _European_ and other Fruits, so that it was call’d _The Land of Promise_; but they are much infested with Tygers, which the Natives kill with great dexterity. _Guaira_ a Province of _Paraguay_ is very hot, because for the most part under the Tropick of _Capricorn_; is very fruitful, but subject to Fevers and other Diseases: yet when the _Spaniards_ came hither in 1550, they are said to have found 300000 People in this Country, but they say there’s scarce a fifth part of that number now; and the Natives very miserable, having no Meat but the Flesh of wild Beasts nor Bread but what they make of the Root _Mandiosa_. There are Stones here which breed in an oval Stone-Case, about the bigness of a Man’s Head. Our Author says, they lie under ground, and when they come to maturity, break with a noise like Bombs, and scatter abundance of beautiful Stones of all colours; which at first the _Spaniards_ took to be of great Value, but did not find ’em so. The other remarkable Product of this Country is a Flower call’d _Granadillo_, which the Jesuit says represents the Instrument of our Saviour’s Passion, and produces a Fruit as big as a common Egg, the Inside of which is very delicious. 2. A Fruit call’d _Guembe_, which is very sweet, but has yellow Kernels, which if chew’d, occasions a sharp Pain in the Jaws. 3. Dates, of which they make Wine and Pottage. 4. Wild Swine which have their Navel on their backs, and if not cut off immediately when the Beast is kill’d, corrupts the whole Carcase. 5. Abundance of wild Bees, several sorts of which yield store of Honey and Wax. 6. Snakes which dart from the Trees, and twist themselves about Men or Beasts, and soon kill ’em if they be not immediately cut in pieces. 7. _Macaqua_ Birds, so call’d because of an Herb which they eat as an Antidote when hurt by Snakes, which lie and watch for them in the Marshes. They frequently fight those Snakes, for which Nature has provided them with sharp Beaks for a Weapon, and strong Wings to serve them as a Buckler. Our Author mentions the River _Paranapan_, which runs thro this Country, is almost as large as the _Paraguay_, and falls into the _Parana_. Its Banks on both sides are cover’d with tall Trees, especially Cedars, of so vast a Bulk that they make Canoes out of a single Trunk, which row with twenty Oars. The Jesuits built the Towns of _Loretto_ and _St Ignatius_, and two more near the Conflux of this River and the _Pyrapus_, about 1610, and eleven more have since been built in that Province, where they have brought over many of the Inhabitants to their Religion. They kill’d many of the _Spaniards_ at first, and then eat them. These Towns are plac’d by the _Sansons_ about Lat. 22. and betwixt Long. 325, and 330.

[Sidenote: _Account of the River Oronoco._]

Our Author not being distinct in describing the Provinces of _Paraguay_ and _Tucuman_, but sometimes confounding one with the other, I shall only add a few things more relating to those Countries in general. He mentions a People call’d _Guaicureans_ who live on the Banks of _Paraguay_ near the City _Assumption_, maintain themselves by Fishing and Hunting, and eat all manner of Serpents and wild Beasts without hurt. They have Tents of Mats, which they remove at pleasure. They dawb one side of their Bodies with stinking Colours, scarify their Faces to make them look terrible, suffer no Hair to grow on their Bodies; and instead of a Beard fasten a Stone of a finger’s length to their Chin, and make their Deformity the Standard of their Valour. Their chief Delight is in Drunkenness and War; and to acquire the Title and Dignity of Soldiers, they must endure to have their Legs, Thighs, Tongues, _&c._ bored with an Arrow; and if they flinch in the least, are not allow’d that Quality: and therefore they inure their Children from their Youth to all sorts of Hardship, and to run Thorns and Briars into their Flesh by way of Pastime. They honour their Commanders so much, that when they spit they receive it into their hands, stand about them when they eat, and observe all their Motions. They chose to fight by night, because they knew nothing of Order, but made their Onsets like Beasts. They either kill’d or sold their Prisoners, if at Man’s Estate, and the young ones they bred in their own way. They lurk’d in Marshes and Woods by day, keeping Spies abroad; and thus they plagu’d the _Spaniards_ for above a hundred years, till they were civiliz’d by some Missionaries. They would not allow their Women to paint with a Clay-colour till they had tasted human Flesh; and therefore when they kill’d Enemies, would divide them among the young Women, or give them the Corpse of their own Dead. They planted Trees over their Graves, adorn’d them with Ostrich Feathers, and met there at certain times, howling in a most barbarous manner, and performing many lewd and hellish Ceremonies. They worship Parrots as Gods, and have a sort of Bears call’d Ant-Bears: They have long Heads, Snouts much longer than those of Swine, and Tongues like Spears, which they thrust into the Ant-Hills, and lick up those Insects, which are as big as the top of one’s finger, and being toasted over the fire, are eat by the Natives and _Spaniards_ too as a Dainty.

Father _Techo_ mentions another People nam’d _Calchaquins_ in this Country, whom he supposes to have been of _Jewish_ Descent, because when the _Spaniards_ came first here, they found that many of them had _Jewish_ Names, and something of their Habit and Customs. Our Author draws a Parallel in several Instances; but this, as well as his Arguments to prove that St. _Thomas_ the Apostle planted Christianity in this Country, will scarce obtain Credit among the Learned. I refer the Curious who would know more of those things to our Author, who brings down what he calls the History of this Country as low as 1645. which is the latest Account we have yet printed, except Father _Sepp’s_ abovemention’d, which brings it to 1691. of which I have given the Substance already.

Before I go further, I shall give some account of the River _Aranoca_ or _Oronoco_, which is the Northern Boundary of our _South-Sea_ Company’s Limits. The Head of it, according to our Maps, is about N. Lat. 3. and in Long. 77. It runs Eastward about 840 miles, about 60 miles N. of the Equator, then runs N. about 420. and turning NE. about 120, falls into the Sea about N. Lat. 9. So that its whole Course is about 1370 miles, including Turnings and Windings; for it runs almost the whole Breadth of that part of _America_, since it rises within 160 miles of the _South-Sea_.

Mr. _Sparrey_,[114] who was left in the adjoining Country by Sir _Walter Raleigh_ in 1595. gives the following Account of this River. He says it is also call’d _Barequan_, is a great River, and others call it _Pariæ_. It falls into the Sea by sixteen Mouths; but according to _Sansons_ Map, what _Sparrey_ calls Mouths are a number of Islands which lie near the Shore at the Entrance of the River, and the chief of those Mouths nam’d _Capuri_ lies furthest South. They say it has 9 foot water at full Sea, and but 5 at Ebb: It flows but a small time, when it rises apace, and the Ebb continues 8 hours. There are several other ways of entring this River, for which I refer to _Sparrey_; as also for the other Rivers which fall into it on both sides. He attempted a Passage to _Peru_ this way, but in vain. He says that in this Search he enter’d the great River _Papemena_, which is six Leagues broad, and came to a pleasant Island call’d _Athul_, where the Climate is temperate, the Island is well water’d, and abounds with Fish, Fowls, and other Animals for Food. It has many Woods that abound with delicate Fruit all the Year. There’s store of Cotton, Balsam, _Brazile_ Wood, _Lignum Vitæ_, Cypress Trees, several Minerals and fine Stones, but for want of Skill he could not judg of the Value of ’em. This Island was not then inhabited, because of the Cannibals nam’d _Caribbes_ in the Neighbourhood. He is of opinion, that Westward from _Oronoco_ Gold might be found; but it was dangerous to go far into the Country, because the Natives were continually in Arms. He adds, that in the Country of _Curae_, part of the Province of _Guiana_, which lies on the S. and E. of _Oronoco_, there was plenty of Gold; but it was dangerous seeking for it in the Sands of the Rivers, because of Crocodiles. He talks also of Pearl or Topazes found here, but dubiously. At _Camalaha_ South of _Oronoco_, he says, there was then a Fair for Women Slaves, where he bought 8 for a coarse red-hafted Knife, the eldest of whom was not above 18 years old. The Inhabitants, he says, are generally swarthy. We have few modern Accounts of this River, because it is not much frequented for Trade; and therefore I shall say no more of it, but return to my Journal.

* * * * *

Nothing remarkable happen’d till _Decemb. 6._ when we had close cloudy Weather, with Showers; Wind at E. by N. We saw a large Bird call’d _Alcatros_, who spread their Wings from eight to ten foot wide, and are much like a Gannet.

_Dec. 7._ Rainy Weather, with Thunder and Lightning, a brisk Gale from E by N. to N E. This day I remov’d one of the Boatswain’s Mates, and put _Rob. Hollanby_ one of our best Sailors in his place.

[Sidenote: _From Grande towards Juan Fernandez._]

_Dec. 10._ Yesterday I exchang’d _Benjamin Long_, one of the Boatswain’s Mates, with _Tho. Hughes_ Boatswain’s Mate on board the _Dutchess_; he being mutinous there, they were willing to be rid of him.

_Dec. 13._ We had a strong Gale of Wind at S W. Yesterday in the Afternoon we reef’d our Main-Sail, which was the first time since we left _England_.

_Dec. 15._ The Colour of the Water being chang’d very much, we founded, but had no Ground: so that this Change is probably occasion’d by the nature of the Ground at bottom. We find it much colder in this Lat. which is 43. 30 S. than in the like degree N. tho the Sun was in its furthest Extent to the Southward: which may be ascrib’d partly to our coming newly out of warmer Climates, which made us more sensible of the Cold; or ’tis probable the Winds blow over larger Tracts of Ice than in the same Degrees of N. Latitude.

_Dec. 18._ Cold hazy rainy Weather. Yesterday in the Afternoon one of the _Dutchess_’s Men fell out of the Mizen-Top down on the Quarter-Deck, and broke his Skull: They desir’d the Advice of our Surgeon, and I went on board with our two, where they examin’d the Wound, but found the Man irrecoverable; so that he died, and was buried next day. Brisk Gales from the W N W. to the W by S.

_Dec. 19._ Cold airy Weather: We saw several Grampusses, and a great number of uncommon sort of Porpusses, black on their Back and Fins, and white underneath, with sharp white Noses; they often leap’d a good height out of the Water, turning their white Bellies uppermost: they were much of the shape and bigness of our Porpusses. We also saw many Seals.

_Dec. 20._ This day, according to what our Committee agreed at _Grande_, we exchang’d Mr. _Vanbrugh_ for Mr. _Bath_ Agent of the _Dutchess_. Easy Gales of Wind, but very veerable. This morning at four we had a very thick Fog, when we were caught in Stays,[115] and lost sight of the _Dutchess_, tho we made all the noise agreed on between us. At nine a clock it clear’d up, being very little Wind, and we were within a League of them.

_Dec. 21._ Easy Gales of Wind, but very veerable. We have seen a deal of Rock-Weed for some days past, of a great length and generally round in large Branches. Lat. 48.50. S.

_Dec. 22._ Fair Weather with Rain, Wind very veerable. The Water is generally discolour’d. We had a good Observ. Lat. 49.32. S.

_Dec. 22._ At ten this morning, we saw Land, bearing S S E. dist. 9 Ls. It appear’d first in three, afterwards in several more Islands. At twelve it bore S. 1/2 W. the West End dist. 6 Ls. a long Tract of Land. We saw most of that which appear’d at first to be Islands, join with the low Lands. The Wind being Westerly, and blowing fresh, we could not weather it; but was forc’d to bear away and run along Shore from 3 to 4 Ls. dist. It lay as near as we could guess E N E. and W S W. This is _Falkland’s_ Land, describ’d in few Draughts, and none lay it down right, tho the Latitude agrees pretty well. The middle of it lies in Latitude 51.00. S. and I make the Longitude of it to be 61. 54. West from _London_. The two Islands extend about two Degrees in Length, as near as I could judg by what I saw.

_Dec. 24._ Last night we reefed both Courses; it blowing strong, lay by from eight till three in the Morning, with our Heads to Northward, Wind at W by S. because we could not tell how far _Falkland_ Islands ran to the Eastward. Between two and three a clock yesterday in the Afternoon we ran by a high round large white remarkable Rock, which appear’d by it self near 3 Ls. without the Land; which is not unlike _Portland_, but not so high, and the Rock like that call’d the _Fastneste_ to the Westward of Cape _Clear_ in _Ireland_. At four yesterday in the Afternoon the North-East End bore S E by S. 7 Ls. the white Rock bore S. 3 Ls. At six the Eastermost Land in sight bore S.E. 7 Ls. All this Land appear’d with gentle Descents from Hill to Hill, and seem’d to be good Ground, with Woods and Harbours. At three a clock we made sail, steering S E. Lat. 52. S.

[Sidenote: _From Grande towards Juan Fernandez._]

_Dec. 25._ Yesterday Noon we saw the Land again, and find it to trim away Southerly from the white Rock. A strong Gale of Wind at S W. At six a clock in the Evening we lost sight of the Land, but could not come near enough to see if it was inhabited; and spy’d a Sail under our Lee-Bow bearing S E. from us, dist. about 4 Ls. We immediately let our Reefs out, chas’d and got ground of her apace: we kept sight till ten at night, when we lost her. We spoke with our Consort, and were both of opinion that the Chase would, as soon as she lost sight of us, if homeward bound, bear away to the Northward; so we ran North till Dawning: then we stood to the Westward till it was light, and our Consort kept on with an easy Sail. When it was full light we saw nothing, being thick hazy Weather: we bore away, and were with our Consort again by five a clock. Between six and seven it clear’d up: we saw the Chase bearing about S by E. between 3 and 4 Ls. from us. It falling calm, we both got out our Oars, row’d and tow’d, with our Boats a-head, and made pretty good way; had a small Breeze at North, so we set all the Sail we could, and by twelve a clock had gain’d very much ground of the Chase. We had an Observ. Lat. 52.40.

_Dec. 26._ We kept on rowing and towing till about six in the Evening; and perceiving we approach’d her, I went in the Boat to speak with Capt. _Courtney_, and agree how to engage her, if a great Ship, as she appear’d to be; and also adjusted Signals, if either of us should find it proper to board her in the night. I return’d aboard as soon as possible, when we had a fine Breeze: we got in our Boats and Oars, and made all possible Sail after the Chase, kept in sight of her till past ten a clock, bearing S S W. of us, when it came on thick again; we kept her open on the Larboard, and the _Dutchess_ on the Starboard-Bow, and being short Nights, we thought it impossible to lose one another. At one a clock this Morning my Officers persuaded me to shorten Sail, telling me we should lose our Consort if we kept on: I was prevail’d with to do so, and in the Morning had a very thick Fog, so that I could see neither our Consort nor Chase till an hour after ’twas full Light. When it clear’d up, we saw our Consort on our Larboard-Bow; we fir’d a Gun for her to bear down, but immediately we saw the Chase ahead of her about four miles, which gave us new Life. We forthwith hal’d up for them; but the Wind soon veering a-head, had a great disadvantage in the Chase. We ran at a great rate, being smooth Water; but it coming on to blow more and more, the Chase outbore our Consort: so she gave off, and being to Windward, came down very melancholy to us, supposing the Chase to have been a _French_ homeward-bound Ship from the _South-Seas_. Thus this Ship escap’d; which, considering that we always out-went her before, is as strange as our first seeing of her in this place, because all Ships that we have heard of bound out or home this way, kept within _Falkland’s_ Island. At twelve a clock we saw a little plain low Island, which bore W N W. dist. 4 Ls. not mark’d in any of our Charts. The Wind has been very veerable since six a clock last night, from the N N E to the S. where it now is. Lat. 53.11. S.

_Dec. 27._ Strong Gales, with Squalls from the South to the West. The _Dutchess_ put her Guns into the Hold again, that she took up in the Chase. Yesterday at two in the Afternoon we put about, and stood off to the Eastward from the little low Island: because we could but just weather it, we were not willing to come too near it. Lat. 54.15. S.

_Dec. 30._ Fresh Gales of Wind at West, hazy Weather mix’d with small Rain. We had an Observ. Lat. 58.20.

_January 1._ Fresh Gales of Wind from the W N W. to the W S W. with Fogs, but indifferent smooth Water. This being New-Year’s Day, every Officer was wish’d a merry New-Year by our Musick; and I had a large Tub of Punch hot upon the Quarter-Deck, where every Man in the Ship had above a Pint to his share, and drank our Owners and Friends Healths in _Great Britain_, to a happy new Year, a good Voyage, and a safe Return. We bore down to our Consort, and gave them three Huzza’s, wishing them the like.

_Jan. 2._ Fresh Gales from the W S W. to the N W. with Fogs. Clothes and Liquor were now an excellent Commodity amongst our Ships Company, who are but meanly stor’d: We had six Taylors at work for several weeks to make them Clothing, and pretty well supply’d their Wants by the spare Blankets and red Clothes belonging to the Owners; and what every Officer could spare, was alter’d for the Mens Use. The like was done on board the _Dutchess_.

[Sidenote: _From Grande towards Juan Fernandez._]

_Jan. 5._ Just past twelve Yesterday it came on to blow strong: We got down our Fore-Yard, and reef’d our Fore-Sail and Main-Sail; but there came on a violent Gale of Wind, and a great Sea. A little before six we saw the _Dutchess_ lowering her Main-Yard: the Tack flew up, and the Lift unreev’d, so that the Sail to Leeward was in the water and all a-back, their Ship took in a great deal of Water to Leeward; immediately they loos’d their Sprit-Sail, and wore her before the Wind: I wore after her, and came as near as I could to ’em, expecting when they had gotten their Main-Sail stow’d they would take another Reef in, and bring to again under a two-reef’d Main-Sail, and reef’d and ballanc’d Mizen, if the Ship would not keep to without it: but to my surprize they kept scudding to the Southward. I dreaded running amongst Ice, because it was excessive cold; so I fir’d a Gun as a Signal for them to bring to, and brought to our selves again under the same reef’d Main-Sail. They kept on, and our Men on the look-out told me they had an Ensign in their Maintop-Mast Shrouds as a Signal of Distress, which made me doubt they had sprung their Main-Mast; so I wore again, our Ship working exceeding well in this great Sea. Just before night I was up with them again, and set our Fore-Sail twice reef’d to keep ’em Company, which I did all night. About three this morning it grew more moderate; we soon after made a Signal to speak with them, and at five they brought to: when I came within haile, I enquir’d how they all did aboard; they answer’d, they had ship’d a great deal of Water in lying by, and were forc’d to put before the Wind, and the Sea had broke in the Cabin-Windows, and over their Stern, filling their Steerage and Waste, and had like to have spoil’d several Men; but God be thank’d all was otherwise indifferent well with ’em, only they were intolerably cold, and every thing wet. At ten we made sail, Wind at W N W. and moderate. Lat. 60,58.

_Jan. 6._ Raw cold Weather, with some Rain. A great Sea from the N W. little Wind from the N N W. to the West. I and Capt. _Dampier_ went in the Yall on board the _Dutchess_, to visit ’em after this Storm; where we found ’em in a very orderly pickle, with all their Clothes drying, the Ship and Rigging cover’d with them from the Deck to the Main-Top: They got six more Guns into the Hold, to make the Ship lively.

_Jan. 7._ Fresh Gales of Wind, with hazy Weather and some small Rain. Yesterday about three in the Afternoon _John Veale_ a Landman died, having lain ill a Fortnight, and had a Swelling in his Legs ever since he left _Grande_. At nine last night we bury’d him; this is the first that died by Sickness out of both Ships since we left _England_. Several of the _Dutchess_’s Men had contracted Illness by the Wet and Cold. Wind from the N N W. to the W N W.

_Jan. 10._ Strong Gales of Wind, with Squalls of Rain and Hail, and a great Sea from the W. We lay by with our Head to the Southward till 12 last night, then came to sail under three-reef’d Courses,[116] and sometimes the Maintop-Sail low set, Wind from the W. to the N. and thence to the N.W. We have no Night here. Lat. 61.53. Long. W. from _Lond._ 79.58 being the furthest we run this way, and for ought we know the furthest that any one has yet been to the Southward.

_Jan. 14._ Moderate Gales with cloudy Weather, Wind veerable. This day the _Dutchess_ bury’d a Man that died of the Scurvy.

_Jan. 15._ Cloudy Weather, with Squalls of Rain, fresh Gales at S W. We had an Observ. Lat. 56. S. We now account our selves in the _South-Sea_, being got round Cape _Horne_. The _French_ Ships that came first to trade in these Seas came thro the Straits of _Magellan_: but Experience has taught them since, that it is the best Passage to go round Cape _Horne_, where they have Sea-room enough; the Straits, being in many places very narrow, with strong Tides and no Anchor-ground.

Here I think it proper to give an Account of the first Discovery of the _South-Sea_, of the Passage to it by the Straits of _Magellan_, of the chief of those who have pass’d those Straits, and a short Description of the Country on both sides of ’em.

_An Account of the Discovery of the_ South-Sea, _and of the Straits
of_ Magellan, _&c. from_ Ovalle _and other Authors_.

[Sidenote: _Account of the Discovery of the South-Sea._]

The first _European_ who discover’d the _South-Sea_, was _Basco_ or _Vasco Nuñes de Balboa_ a _Spaniard_, in 1513. He was the first who landed on the Isthmus of _Darien_, and made war with their Caciques or Princes; who not being able to resist his Fire-Arms, and perceiving that the chief Design of the _Spaniards_ was to find Gold, one of the Caciques told _Vasco_, that since they were so fond of that which he and his Countrymen valu’d so little, he would conduct them over the Mountains to another Sea, upon which they might find a Country where the People had all their Utensils of Gold. This was the first notice the _Spaniards_ had of the _South-Sea_. _Vasco_ march’d on till he came near the top of the highest Mountain, where he order’d his Men to halt, because he would have the honour of first discovering that Sea himself: which having done, he fell down on his knees and thank’d God for his Success, and call’d it the _South-Sea_, in opposition to that on the other side the Continent, Having pass’d these Mountains, he march’d down till he came to the Coast, and took possession of it in the name of the King of _Spain_. When he return’d back, he found a new _Spanish_ Governour in _Darien_ call’d _Pedrarias_; who being his Enemy because he envy’d the King’s making him Governour and Admiral of the _South-Sea_, he falsly accus’d him of Treason and cut off his Head, and sent _Gaspar Morales_ and _Francis Pizarro_ to compleat the Discovery, with a good number of Men, and large Dogs that were as terrible to the _Indians_ as the _Spaniards_ Fire-Arms. Here they discover’d the Isle of Pearls, and forc’d the Natives to fish for them, and then discover’d the rest of the Coast. The first who found a Passage from the _North-Sea_ was _Ferdinand Magaillans_, who in 1519 sail’d on purpose by Commission from the Emperor _Charles_ V. to discover it. In Lat. 52. S. he found the Passage, which from him has been since call’d the Straits of _Magellan_. _Pigafetta_ an _Italian_, who made the Voyage with him, says that in S. Lat. 49-1/2. at Port _St. Julian_, they found Giants whose Waste a middle-siz’d Man could scarce reach with his Head: they were clad with the Skins of Beasts as monstrous as themselves, arm’d with huge Bows and Arrows, and of a Strength proportionable to their Bulk, yet good-natur’d: One of them seeing himself in a Looking-Glass on board the Ship, was so frighten’d that he run backward, and tumbled down several Men that stood behind him. The Crew gave Toys to some of them, at which being mightily pleas’d, they suffer’d them to put Shackles about their Arms and Legs, which they took for Ornaments; but when they found themselves fast, bellow’d like Bulls. One of them, he says, made his Escape from nine Men, after they had got him down and ty’d his hands. Other Voyagers say they have seen such Giants in those parts, particularly Mr. _Candish_, _Sebald de Wert_ in 1599. and _Spilberg_ in 1614. but the Reader may believe of this Story what he pleases. _Pigafetta_ says the Straits were 110 Ls. long, in some places very wide, and in others not above half a League over. _Magaillans_ pass’d ’em in _Novemb._ 1520. and being overjoy’d, he call’d the Cape from whence he first saw the _South-Sea_ the _Cape of Desire_. After rambling almost four months in the _South-Sea_, where he suffer’d extreme Want, and lost many of his Men, he sail’d to the _Ladrones_ Islands, and foolishly engaging 7000 Natives in _Mathan_, which is one of them, he was kill’d. One of his Ships forsook him as he pass’d the Straits, and return’d to _Spain_: of the other four, only the Ship _Victoria_ return’d to _St. Lucar_ near _Sevil_, under the Command of _John Sebastian Cabot_, who was nobly rewarded by the Emperor.

In 1539 _Alonso de Camargo_ a _Spaniard_ pass’d the same Straits, and arriv’d at the Port of _Arequipa_ in _Peru_; but much shatter’d, having lost one of his Ships, and another leaving him, return’d to _Spain_. After him several other _Spaniards_ pass’d the same way, and they planted a Colony and Garison at the North End, to block up the Passage to other Nations; but without success, the Garison being all starved or destroy’d by the _Indians_.