Chapter M (4)

=Shoulder belts=—(=army=) worn with full dress by officers of the signal corps; for chief signal officer, of red russia leather having 3 stripes of gold embroidery and field-glass case attacht; other officers, a b. corresponding to their waist b., with field-glass case attacht.

=Shoulder cape=—loosely, any short or small c., whether worn as a separate garment or attacht to an overcoat.

=Shoulder closer=—in clothing manufacture, a workman who sews up the shoulder seams of coats.

=Shoulder form=—a coat hanger or display fixture conforming to the shoulders of a coat.

=Shoulder holster=—a revolver h. with a breast and shoulder strap, worn under the coat on the left side.

=Shoulder knot=—a braided ornamental k. of gold lace worn on the shoulder in lieu of strap and epaulet, indicating rank, worn by commissioned officers only; a kind of epaulet without fringe.

=Shoulder mark=—a strip of cloth about 2¼ × 5 inches, pointed at one end, worn by officers in the navy, distinguishing their rank according to the style and manner of braid and other ornament.

=Shoulder measure method=—one of various systems of garment measurement. (Tailoring.)

=Shoulder piece=—(1) a piece over the shoulder joining the front and back of a garment; (2) a shoulder strap; (=3=) armor protecting the shoulders.

=Shoulder pitch=—see S. point.

=Shoulder point=—where the forepart and backpart (of a coat) meet and are seamed at the shoulder, particularly the crest thereof; a term in tailor’s measurements.

=Shoulder stick=—a shoemaker’s tool for “setting” the edges of soles and heels.

=Shoulder strap=—a s. of cloth edged with gold lace and bearing certain insignia, indicating rank, etc., worn by commissioned officers in the army and navy. See Regulations for specific information.

=Shoulder strap=—see Tourist s.

=Shovel hat=—a low, round-crowned, felt h. with a plain flat brim which is longer in front and behind than at the sides and droops slightly; worn by Roman and Anglican clerics, the latter much modified; the name derived from its appearance.

=Show card=—a window sign; a study in still li—es.

=Show off=—an inborn predilection for displaying new clothes, jewels, accomplishments, etc.

=Show window=—a place where goods are displayed, to be damaged by the sun, for the purpose of supplying occasions for reduced prices in “bargain sales”.

=Shower coat=—a raincoat.

=Shrink=—general term for (1) the process of reducing or contracting the length and width of fabrics by means of steam, cold water, etc., so that when fashioned into or used as part of any garment or article of apparel, there will be no further appreciable loss; also called sponging (see Sponge); (2) to lose in size in laundering or use; (3) to contract any particular spot or portion of a garment or article of apparel, for purposes of shapeliness, fit or style, by means of a hot iron and water.

=Shroud=—the last garment we wear; one that the wearer never hurries the maker to complete.

=Shushine=—proprietary name for a preparation for polishing shoes.

=Siberian dog=—the fur of a species of dog or wolf found in Siberia; resembles that of a fox in texture. Used for coats, caps, etc.

=Sicilian=—a plain-woven mohair fabric. See Mohair.

=Side-body=—tailor’s term for a part of a frock coat, stopping at arm scye and at waist, connecting forepart with backpart.

=Side-buckle trousers=—t. buckled at each side of the waist instead of behind, the straps and buckle being smaller than on back-buckled trousers.

=Side edge=—a sort of ornamental welt, placket or rever inserted into the plait seam of the (skirt-) back of skirted uniform and livery coats, variously shaped but usually contrived with 3 points, upon each of which a button is set.

=Side leather=—a shoemaking term applied to upper leathers made from cow hides which have been split down the backbone, a whole hide making two sides when so split; a term distinguishing certain class of upper l. as compared with calf l.

=Side of neck=—old name for shoulder point (qv).

=Side pocket=—the principal trousers p. with opening thru the side seam of trousers. Compare Top p.

=Side pocket=—a curious name given to a drinking saloon in an out-of-the-way place; a resort for thieves.

=Side prick stitch=—same as prick s. (qv)—so called from the way the s. is placed. See also Pricking back s.

=Side stitch=—made similarly to the prick s., the stitches, however, being laid just at the side of where the needle came thru. Employed for especial neatness and firmness.

=Side tabs=—trade term for standing shirt collars with small flaps on each side, beneath which the scarf is held and prevented from “riding”.

=Sideburns=—vernacular for short side whiskers.

=Signet ring=—see Seal r.

=Silesia=—a light, stout, closely woven, fine twilled, calendered cotton material used for linings.

=Silesia seam=—a strong s. finish employed in making garments of fabrics that are liable to slip or pull apart or that have little strength, specifically a strip of silesia laid under a seam and stitcht to same on both sides.

=Silk=—too exhaustiv for this book; you know what it is, or ought to, for it has been used since 3400 B. C. See encyclopedia for lengthy treatise.

=Silk beaver=—see Beaver.

=Silk braid=—a fine, firm tape or b. used by tailors for binding edges of garments, etc., woven fairly close but flexible, of various widths, denominated “lignes”, and also, according to purposes for which designed, known as flat b., half-and-half-b., trouser-b., etc.

=Silk braid button=—a b. made on a wooden or metal mold covered with silk braid, used on dress coats, waistcoats and overcoats.

=Silk hat=—an uncomfortable piece of aristocratic (?) headgear having the faculty of elongating the tall and stunting the short, and a style of headdress perennially threatened with retirement, but which seems to be quite as cheerfuly ineradicable as dandelions in a grass plot.

=Silk-mixt=—wool, cotton, linen, etc., intermixt with silk in the yarn.

=Silk mixtures=—trade name for worsted and woolen cloths, having decorativ threads of silk intersperst in the weaving, or woven partly of yarns in which the silk threads are twisted.

=Silk-plated=—a s. face on a cotton or wool body, as silk-p. hosiery.

=Silk stick=—a piece of wood about 2½ × 12 inches, partly covered with cloth, used by tailors for holding sewing silk in such a way that it may readily be drawn out, a needleful at a time, without snarling.

=Silk stocking=—epithet applied to aristocrats unexpectedly meddling in politics or other affairs that do not ordinarily concern them.

=Silk tests=—see Elasticity t., Flame t., Pure dye t., Weighted s. t., Cotton t., etc.

=Silker=—Briticism for silk hat.

=Silkopolis=—Paterson, N. J., where most of the domestic silk goods are manufactured.

=Silkworm=—bombyx mori, attacus ricini, attacus cynthia, telea polyphemus, et al.—all of which probably tells you little more than you know. Encyclopedias are good investments—get one.

=Silvalin=—a yarn or weaving material spun from a sort of paper obtained from wood, manufactured in Southern Germany. Probably an incorrect spelling of Xylolin (qv).

=Silver fox=—the most valuable of all fox furs. Single skins are often sold as high as $500.

=Silver gilt=—(1) gilded silver; (2) spurious gilding of s. by means of a yellow lacquer.

=Silver headed=—getting along in years.

=Silver plated=—baser metal coated or plated with s.

=Silver stick=—same as gold s.

=Silver top=—jocular for a gray haired person.

=Simitar=—see Scimitar.

=Simulated cuff=—in tailoring, a welt, plait or other imitation of a turned back c., on a coat sleeve.

=Singeing=—the process of removing nap from the surface of fabrics by means of heat or flame.

=Single-breasted=—fastened with a single row of buttons or other fastening and having but one thickness or leaf of the garment or fabric at the breast. Compare Double-breasted.

=Single-breasted cutaway=—see C. frock coat and Frock coat.

=Single-breasted frock coat=—(1) a f. c. made with full straight hanging skirts and unspliced foreparts; a “s. b. Prince Albert”; (2) a cutaway f. c. See Frock c.

=Single-breasted Prince Albert=—(a misnomer, the “Prince Albert”, so-called, being strictly a double-breasted frock); except for a single row of buttons, of the same general style as the double-breasted or P. A. frock.

=Single-breasted sack coat=—see Sack c.

=Single crepe=—a black silk c., less crinkly and softer than double c. (qv); used for light mourning. See Crepe.

=Single cuff=—(1) an imitation coat sleeve c.; (2) an unfolded shirt c. Compare Double c.

=Single soled=—having but one sole; cheap; poor.

=Single-stitcht=—tailor’s term for an edge finish obtained by stitching on machine at a stated distance from the actual edge (as “1–16 in. s. s.”) the edges having first been joined and turned.

=Single-stitcht seam=—see Cord s.

=Single warp=—a term used (1) in reference to yarns, meaning that the warp threads are single and not two or more ply; also (2) in connection with fabric construction indicating a single system of warp threads with, say, a double system of weft or filling threads.

=Singles=—reeled filaments of raw silk twisted for firmness but not doubled.

=Singlestick=—a light ash rod or stick, used as a substitute for the sword in fencing exercises.

=Singlet=—(1) an aboriginal waistcloth; (2) an undershirt; (3) an unlined waistcoat similar to a doublet.

=Sir Knight’s coat=—(=Masonic=) a single-breasted frock c. of black cloth, with standing military collar, the front closing with 11 buttons. Compare Commander’s c. and Fatigue blouse.

=Sissy=—opposit of tomboy.

=Size=—a unit of measurement.

=Size=—to size up; to form an opinion concerning a person or thing, the equivalent of to take one’s measure.

=Size stick=—a shoe dealer’s foot measure.

=Size strap=—a foot measuring tape used by shoe dealers.

=Size ticket=—a small, square paper ticket with a big size number sewed or pinned to the tail of a coat—which the customer sometimes is allowed to wear away to show that he is a readymade man.

=Sizes=—trade term for an assortment or range of sizes and shapes.

=Sizes=—in the readymade clothing trade garments are classified as regular, long, stout, slim, short-stout, corpulent, extra stout, long-stout, long-slim, etc., indicating normal proportions and variations thereof; all of which see.

=Sizing=—(1) the process of strengthening warp yarns by means of a gummy preparation to enable them to withstand the weaving process without chafing or breaking; (2) a finishing operation, similarly achieved, applied to certain grades of cotton, linen or silk fabrics for purposes of fictitious weight and appearance. See Glaze and Washable.

=Sizing=—a process in hat manufacture where the hat, still in the large cone as delivered from the forming department, is carefully shrunken by continual rolling, sqeezing, dipping in hot water, etc., until reduced or fitted to its proper size, but still retaining the cone shape.

=Sizy=—overloaded with dressing.

=Skating cap=—(1) a knitted toque; (2) a turban c. of fur or cloth.

=Skating jacket=—a short, snug-fitting coat.

=Skating shoe=—a soft, flexible s. of less than regular hight.

=Skean dhu=—a Scottish highlander’s knife, worn in the stocking when in clan costume.

=Skees=—bed slats with footholds affording first-rate amusement to those fond of pitching head-first into snow banks.

=Skein=—a certain quantity of yarn or thread, wound, doubled and knotted. Compare Hank.

=Skein dyes=—trade term for fabrics dyed in the yarn before weaving. Compare Piece d., Ingrain d., Slub d., etc.

=Skeleton=—term applied to a coat made without lining.

=Skeleton suit=—a close-fitting s. of clothes, the jacket or vest having a series of buttons at the waist to which the trousers are attacht.

=Ski=—see Skees.

=Skilts=—a kind of short trousers worn by boys and farmhands in Colonial times; they reacht to just below the knee, were very broad in the legs, but fitted snugly at the waist, needing no brace to support them.

=Skimpt=—done in a superficial or careless way. (=Skimped.=)

=Skin= (=to=)—trade term for leather with grain so tender that it peels or barks easily.

=Skin wool=—see Pulled w.

=Skinner’s=—trade diminutiv for the general line of silk goods, especially lining silks and satins, made by Wm. Skinner Mfg. Co.

=Skins=—trade term for the hides of small animals, as sheep, goat, deer, etc., and for the lighter forms of leather. Compare Hides.

=Skirt=—the lower or hanging part of a coat, shirt, etc.; a peplum.

=Skirt pocket=—any p. made in the skirts or tail-part of a coat.

=Skirt strap=—a narrow band-like piece sewn to the waist seam of an evening dress coat, extending from the skirt (of which it is usually an integral part) to the front fore-edge.

=Skirted=—a term applied to certain wool fleeces imported into the U. S. from which the head, belly and breech wool (inferior parts) have been removed, to avoid full effect of the tariff.

=Skirty=—said of a coat with very full drapery.

=Skive=—in shoemaking, the process of shaving or paring leathers for joints, etc.

=Skiver=—(1) split leather; (2) a workman who burls edges of leather; (3) a machine for cutting counters and rands.

=Skull cap=—a light c., without peak or brim; closely fitting the skull.

=Sky piece=—slang for hat.

=Slanting pocket=—a p. placed at an angle.

=Slash=—a strip of tape, lace, braid, etc., worn on a non-commissioned officer’s sleeve to distinguish him from a private.

=Slash pocket=—see Slit p.

=Slasher=—a machine for sizing and finishing warp yarn.

=Slasht=—said of a garment as a doublet, having many decorativ slits underlaid or puft with fabric of different color. =(Slashed.)=

=Slater’s=—general term for standard flannels, uniform cloths, etc., made by S. Slater & Sons, Webster, Mass.

=Sleeping bag=—a large b.-like receptacle used at night by explorers, prospectors, campers, etc., usually of sheepskin with the wool on, waterproof duck, blanketing, etc., sometimes in combination with an air mattress, the individual creeping into it for warmth.

=Sleeping stockings=—see Bed socks.

=Sleeping suit=—a loose fitting, one-piece, sleeping garment, usually of canton flannel, or flannel, so fashioned as to cover the entire body except head and hands.

=Sleeve=—that part of a coat, or shirt, or other garment, covering the arm.

=Sleeve buttons=—in coat making, usually the same size as the waistcoat b. tho fashion is fickle.

=Sleeve head=—tailor’s term for that part of a s. where a join is made with the shoulder; if slightly puft or fulled on it is called full-headed (qv).

=Sleeve head seam=—juncture of s. and body; the scye.

=Sleeve holder=—a device for holding up or shortening one’s shirt sleeves to allow of freedom for forearm and protect the s. from undue soiling or injury.

=Sleeve lining=—(1) a fine quality of silesia with a lustrous face printed in fancy patterns, or with silk stripes, or both; (2) a fine quality of cambric similarly illuminated; (3) a light, thin silk.

=Sleeve protector=—see Oversleeve.

=Sleeve ticket=—a paper or paper-faced cotton-back ticket attacht to readymade coat sleeves having lot number, size and price marks printed thereon.

=Slender=—see Slim.

=Slick up=—to get drest.

=Slicker=—a waterproof overcoat; an oilskin.

=Slide=—see String out.

=Sliders=—overalls; term obsolete.

=Sliding pads=—adjustable articles worn by base-stealers as protection when making grand stand plays.

=Slim=—clothing trade term for readymade garments designed to fit slenderly built persons with waists of less than normal measure. Compare Long-slim.

=Slimsy=—slightly made; frail in build; flimsy in texture.

=Sling=—(1) a suspensory band for supporting an injured arm or leg; (2) an elementary article of apparel among savages; (3) a strap by means of which a rifle may be slung on the shoulders.

=Sling strap=—an attachment to a sword belt to which the scabbard is attacht.

=Slinks=—in the old Irish glove trade, a name given to skins of unborn calves from parturient cows purposely slaughtered.

=Slip=—an infant’s dress.

=Slip=—see String out.

=Slip collar=—a detachable c.

=Slip-on=—(1) a loose single-breasted sack overcoat, made without side seams; usually of waterproof material; (2) a raincoat; (3) a waterproof overcoat with skirts ample enough to cover saddle and legs.

=Slip-over=—a loose overcoat. Same as Slip-on.

=Slip sole=—a thin piece of sole leather placed between the outer s. and inner s. of a shoe to make the finisht edge of the bottom thicker.

=Slip stitch=—a s. slipt over the next succeeding s. without catching or knitting. See Drop-s.

=Slipper=—a low, light shoe, for indoor wear, into which (or out of which) the foot is easily slipt, fraught with boyish reminiscences.

=Slipper=—a workman who removes the newly formed hat body from the cone. See Coning, Slipping, etc.

=Slipping=—in hat making, the act of removing the body of a hat from the cone.

=Slipshod=—down at the heel.

=Slit pocket=—any p. without welt or flap. See Welt p., Flapt p., Jetted p., Raincoat p., etc.

=Slit welt=—the felled or hemmed opening in the palm of a glove.

=Sliver=—a soft, continuous rope or strand of wool, cotton or silk fibers, as obtained in the carding and combing processes.

=Slob=—one who is untidy or slovenly in his personal appearance.

=Sloonly=—badly attired; slovenly drest.

=Slop shop=—(English) a shop where sailor’s readymade clothes, small wares, etc., are sold.

=Slope of shoulder measure=—tailor’s term for (1) the upper or strap measurement (qv) as taken by the long m. system and (2) the depth of scye m. as taken by the short m. system. See Over-shoulder m.

=Slops=—English for readymade clothing of the cheaper grades and workingmen’s jeans; up to and including the year 1903 exports of clothing from the United Kingdom were officially classified as “apparel and slops”. In 16th century, a term applied promiscuously to all garments easily adjusted and imaginably ungainly, neglige or slipshoddy. The word itself is derived from “slip”.

=Slouch hat=—any soft felt h.; especially a fedora or alpine h.

=Slub=—see Slubbing.

=Slub dyed=—trade term for woolen and worsted fabrics woven of yarns dyed while still in the slub state. See Slubbing. Compare Skein d. and Piece d.

=Slubbing=—a slightly twisted or badly twisted roll of wool; also called slub and slubber.

=Slubbing machine=—a machine for drawing out and slightly twisting carded wool; now superseded by improved devices attacht to wool-cards.

=Slug=—an iron for heating hollow hat irons.

=Slug lugger=—the youngster who carries the hot iron slug used for heating hatter’s irons.

=Slugging=—a process in shoemaking performed by a s. machine which drives in round the edges of the surface of the finisht heel rows of brass or iron nails called slugs. A wire is put thru the machine and this wire is automatically driven into the leather and cut off, having the effect of leaving in the leather brass or iron nails.

=Slumber robe=—undertaker’s euphemism for shroud.

=Small=—tailor’s term for the hollow of the back at waistline (small-of-the-back).

=Small arms=—fire arms, carried in the hand, and fired from the hand or shoulder.

=Small-falls=—see Narrow f. and Front-f.

=Smalls=—close-fitting knee breeches.

=Smart=—a dandy of 1760 or thereabout.

=Smart set=—that element of our social organization that assumes to be better drest, better mannered, better financed and better in various other ways (not including morality) than the rest of us.

=Smock=—a large apron covering the person, such as is worn by butchers.

=Smock frock=—a yoked blouse or loose shirt of coarse linen or cotton, worn by field laborers (in Europe) over other clothes.

=Smock linen=—a coarse, linen material for smocks.

=Smoke helmet=—a protectiv head covering, similar to a diver’s h., worn by firemen and supplied with air from a comprest air receiver carried on the back.

=Smoked pearl=—dark, cloudy.

=Smoked spectacles=—s. with lenses of smoked glass.

=Smoking cap=—broadly, any c. worn indoors while smoking, more specifically, a fancy velvet, silk or cloth c. similar to a fez (qv).

=Smoking jacket=—any fancy coat for house (smoking) wear.

=Smoothing iron=—see Goose.

=Smudge=—to soil.

=Smuggler=—a dealer in contraband merchandise; an evader of customs duties; a fraudulent importer.

=Smut=—a soiled or dirty condition as of soot, coal dust, ink smears, etc.

=Smutch=—see Smudge.

=Snack basket=—a lunch b.

=Snag=—a broken tooth.

=Snail back=—see Wig.

=Snail pearl=—trade name for p. buttons, etc., in color, sometimes natural, but more often dyed, and usually dark blue or red.

=Snakeskin garters=—worn in 18th century “to ward off cramps in the legs”.

=Snap brim=—a hat b., flat structurally, tighter around the outer circumference so that it may be tilted up or down in front, back or sides; name probably from a snapping sound made in effecting the desired tilt.

=Snap button=—a self-locking b. for bachelors, widowers and men with negligent wives; especially useful when suspender buttons drop off.

=Snaps=—metal ball-and-socket clasps used on plackets, flies, gloves, etc.

=Snarled=—tangled.

=Sneakers=—slang for rubber soled shoes; rubber heels; overshoes.

=Snide=—base, imitation, undesirable, fraudulent.

=Snip=—an overdrest man; a coxcomb; a finical person.

=Snipe collar=—tailor’s term for a long and slender coat c.

=Snob=—an imaginary somebody; read Thackeray for elucidativ treatis.

=Snob=—a journeyman shoemaker; an old English usage which has well-nigh disappeared in the mother country, and is not much used in America, save in some parts of Massachusetts and Pennsylvania.

=Snow=—cant term for linen.

=Snow goggles=—see below.

=Snow spectacles=—(1) of various forms; commonly a slotted wood, celluloid or metal shield, contrived to permit vision while shutting off glare; (2) more loosely, smoked glass s.

=Snow shoe=—a sort of mammoth tennis racket affording easy means of suicide.

=Snub nose=—broad and tip-tilted.

=Snuff box=—a small b., often ornamental or costly, for snuff, carried in the pocket; in very general use in the days of the dandies—when may it not be revived?

=Soap=—a detergent—used for personal cleanliness, in the laundry, in wool preparation, mechanically, medicinally, and palaverously.

=Soap box=—a small b., usually fancy, of celluloid, metal or other material, used principally by travelers for carrying their personal cakes of s.

=Soap-chalk=—tailor’s marking c., compounded of pigment and soap or wax so as to disappear under a hot iron or by agency of benzine.

=Soap shrunk=—trade term relating to a process of contracting cloths and fabrics in soap and water, by which the maximum amount of shrinkage is obtained; the best process for heavy cotton goods, as duck, canvas, etc. Compare Steam s., Cold water s., etc.

=Soap-stiff=—tailor’s term for work, as of hems on the bottoms of trousers, stiffened with soap instead of, as is common (with cheaper work) with rubber tissue.

=Soapstone=—steatite or talc-rock, used as a marking-chalk on cloth.

=Social full dress=—(=revenue cutter service=) worn by commissioned officers on occasions of strictly social nature, conforming in material, cut, etc., to the evening dress of the navy, differing principally in that the coat has 5 buttons on each breast instead of 3.

=Society=—broadly, the intercourse of people of self asserted superiority, such as the new rich.

=Society man=—useless in business; good to sell clothes to.

=Sock=—(1) a knit or woven foot covering, having a leg shorter than that of a stocking, a term much less euphonious than hose; (2) the light shoe worn by comic actors in the Greek and Roman drama; (3) a warm insole; (4) a sandal or clog formerly worn by the Recollect friars.

=Sock lining=—a piece of felt, cloth or leather, placed on the inside of a shoe at the heel; used as a finishing method for covering up the ends of nails and tacks used for attaching the heels to the sole.

=Sock stick=—in a lumber camp, a pronged s. or tree branch on which the workmen hang their clothes near the fire.

=Soft finishing=—a process in hat manufacture whereby, after blocking and drying, soft hats are adjusted on wooden blocks, pounced and finisht smooth, ironed and trimmed to exact sizes of brim.

=Soft front=—a trade term for neglige shirts, more specifically those without plaits.

=Soft prest=—but lightly gone over with the iron; not creased. (Tailoring term.) Compare Hard p. (=S. pressed.=)

=Soft roll=—tailoring term, most commonly applied to lapels and coat fronts, meaning not made or prest hard or stiff, but workt to turn or handle freely; or lightly prest for same end.

=Soie=—French for silk.

=Soie ondee=—a species of thrown silk. See Throwing.

=Soiled=—ready to be “marked down”.

=Soisette=—proprietary name for a mercerized cotton cloth used for pajamas, outing shirts, etc.

=Solar tip=—proprietary name for a make of children’s shoes having heavy sole leather protectiv t.

=Sold out=—trade term expressiv of being out of a certain line and unable to make further deliveries.

=Sold up=—trade term expressiv of being in a condition to accept no more orders for delivery or manufacture.

=Soldiers’ uniforms=—see the various descriptions of army u. under Full dress, Dress u., White u., Service u., Fatigue u., etc.

=Sole=—the bottom or walked-on part of a shoe or stocking.

=Sole scouring=—one of the final processes in modern shoemaking, whereby all roughness of a s. is scoured off by holding against a machine having rolls covered with sandpaper. See Sandpapering.

=Sole leather=—thick, heavy cowhide or other l. used for soles.

=Sole plate=—same as Heel p.

=Solid gold=—24 carats pure.

=Soliel=—textil term for a shining, lustrous, finish on silk and woolen fabrics.

=Solitaire=—a ribbon of black silk tied loosely and worn around the neck, sometimes attacht to the bag of the wig and tuckt loosely into the front of the shirt (1760 or thereabout).

=Solitaire=—a diamond ring marking a great event in a young man’s life, afterward often becoming a commonplace happening in his relations with other men’s wives.

=Sombrero=—a broad-brimmed hat, usually of felt, common in Mexico and the Southwest; often lavishly ornamented with gold lace, etc.

=Sonabitch=—a small imperial or goatee (qv).

=Sons of wax=—humorous term for shoemakers.

=Sorting=—the first process in woolen manufacture; classifying the fibers of the fleece.

=Sorting kersey=—one of the old names for kersey (qv).

=Sorts=—trade term for sizes (qv), used specially when one is buying to fill in the range.

=Sour=—a chemical step or process in cotton and linen bleaching.

=Soupled=—in silk throwing, having the external gluey covering removed by heating in an acid bath.

=Soutache braid=—a narrow, roundish braid of the herringbone variety, of silk, mohair, tinsel, etc.; used decorativly.

=South street=—a street in Philadelphia well known for its numerous small, cheap clothing shops, tho of rather better flavor than Baxter s., N. Y. (qv); local synonym for cheap clothing.

=Southern ties=—laced low shoes, slightly higher than Oxfords, similar to the Blucher model, but with the tops beginning farther back toward the sides of the foot.

=Sou’wester=—a tarpaulin hat with a broad, drooping brim, especially so behind to protect the neck.

=Sox=—vulgar for half hose (qv).

=Spaced front=—trade term for folded shirt collars more or less cut away in f., meeting or not meeting at point of fold. Compare Meeting folder. Term also applied to straight standing collars having an opening or space in f.

=Spanish cape=—a semi-military c.

=Spanish linen=—a strong, plain woven fabric of l. warp and cotton filling, 27 inches wide. Said to be fast color, non-creasable and washable without mildew; of weight suitable for office coats, shirts, pajamas, etc.; formerly made entirely by hand, but nowadays by machinery.

=Sparkler=—diamond.

=Sparrowtails=—see Swallowtail.

=Spat puttee=—a p. legging covering the instep.

=Spats=—overgaiters.

=Spatterdash=—a sort of overgaiter or legging.

=Special full dress=—(=army=) see Evening d. uniform.

=Special full dress=—(=navy=) worn on state occasions at home and abroad; when receiving the President, any foreign ruler or member of royal family; at special ceremonies or entertainments; at general muster on first Sunday of every month; receptions to ex-Presidents, to Vice President or Secretary of Navy. Consists of—for all commissioned officers, except chaplains, chief boatswains, chief gunners, chief carpenters and chief sailmakers—special f. d. coat, f. d. trousers, cockt hat; epaulets, sword and f. d. belt, white gloves, medals and badges; for the commissioned officers excepted above, and for warrant officers, mates and clerks, the same as “Undress A”; for midshipmen, the same as “full dress”; (=marine corps=) worn on the same or similar occasions. Consists of—for major general commandment: f. d. coat, special f. d. or white trousers, chapeau, f. d. cap or white helmet, sash, sword, f. d. sword, belt and knot, epaulets, white standing collar, black shoes, white gloves (or, when mounted, dark blue riding breeches, drab leather gloves, black boots with spurs); for all officers of the line: a similar uniform except that chapeau and sash belong to the higher rank, and that f. d. trousers are worn; for staff officers: a uniform similar to that of the major general commandant excepting there is no sash and that shoulder knots and aigulets are worn instead of epaulets; for leaders and all members of the band (to be worn on occasions of indoor functions at which the band has to play, or other special occasions when ordered): special f. d. coat, special f. d. trousers, special f. d. cap, sword with f. d. sword knot and belt (leader only), shoulder knots (leader only), white gloves and black leather shoes.

=Special full dress cap=—(=marine corps=) for leader of the band, of blue cloth, same pattern and style as f. d. cap of officers of the line. For second leader and musicians, of scarlet cloth, same model as f. d. cap of other enlisted men.

=Special full dress coat=—(=navy=) for officers: a full-buttoned, double-breasted c. of dark blue cloth, lined with white silk serge, waist descending to top of the hip bone, the skirts commencing at about one-fourth of the circumference from the middle of the front edge and descending four-fifths of the distance from the hip bone to the knee with two large navy buttons on the waist behind and one near the bottom of each fold or plait; two rows of large navy buttons on the breast, 9 each; standing collar with V opening; the collar and cuffs covered with gold lace, braid, bands of colored cloth, etc., as prescribed in regulations according to rank of officer, and with appropriate epaulets, etc.; (=marine corps=) for leader of the band, a sack c. of scarlet cloth made after the same pattern as prescribed for first lieutenant marine corps, except no opening for sword; the front edges, around bottom, vents and sleeves trimmed with 1¼ in. flat gold braid, backed with ⅛ in. gold tracing braid; collar similarly trimmed; gold tubular braiding across breast in the same manner as prescribed for first lieutenant, with gold crochet buttons and olives; seams between side body and backpart trimmed with 2 rows of gold tubular braid; other details as prescribed. For second leader of band, the same, except that the cuffs are trimmed with black mohair braid. For musicians of band, a fly-front sack c. of scarlet cloth, cut half close, standing collar of black broadcloth piped with white, pointed cuffs ditto, shoulder straps ditto; edges, bottom and vents trimmed with 1 in. black mohair braid backt with ⅛ in. black mohair tracing braid, side body seams trimmed with black mohair tubular braid; fronts trimmed with black mohair tubular braid, 5 across, terminating in frogs, olives, etc.; otherwise as prescribed.

=Special full dress trousers=—(=marine corps=) for major general commandant, of dark blue cloth, cut with medium spring, side pockets, outseams trimmed with 1¼ in. gold lace with a 3–16 in. scarlet silk stripe thru center; for staff officers, the same without scarlet stripe; for line officers, of sky-blue cloth, outseams trimmed with 1½ in. gold lace with edges of scarlet cloth welted ¼ in.; for leader of band, of dark blue cloth, the same as prescribed for staff officers, outseams trimmed with 1¼ in. flat gold braid. For second leader and musicians, the same except a 1 in. stripe of scarlet cloth down outer seams.

=Special patrolman’s uniform=—(New York) a double-breasted sack coat of gray cloth reaching halfway to knee, buttoning close to throat with 5 buttons, no outside pockets. Trousers to match with a red welt on outer seam. Overcoat, of same color, double-breasted sack style, reaching 3 inches below knee, closing with 6 buttons (2 rows), with rolling collar. Cap, navy pattern of same color. In summer, uniform may be of gray flannel.

=Special sale=—an advertising makeshift when goods move slowly or times are dull.

=Special uniforms=—thruout the military and naval services of the United States, whenever on occasions of ceremony officers of these services are required to appear together in uniform, as prescribed under designations Uniform A, Uniform B, and Uniform C, which see.

=Specialty mark=—(=navy=) an embroidered device forming a part of the rating badge (qv), indicating occupation of the wearer, as master at arms, boatswains mates, blacksmiths, yeomen, printers, etc.

=Specie bag=—a medium-sized strong leather hand b., carried by bank messengers.

=Spectacle case=—a c. for holding and protecting spectacles when not in use. See Eyeglass holder.

=Spectacles=—a device for aiding eyesight—a pair of lenses attacht to a metal bridge and hinged bows, the latter usually curved to hook around the ears, tho formerly made to clasp the temples; the lenses sometimes enclosed in a frame or rim.

=Spence cotton=—a variety of c. grown in India, having a strong, wiry staple of 1 to 1¼ inches in length, the “trees” producing it frequently attaining a hight of 6 to 7 feet.

=Spencer=—a short, scant, top coat not covering the undercoat, invented by Lord Spencer, about 1792, on a bet that he could set a fashion, wholly meaningless and unnecessary, that would be the vogue within six months. He then took shears and amputated the tails of the coat he was wearing and appeared in it on the street. Being a leader of fashion, the idiosyncrasy spread within a week and in a few months reached America.

=Spent tan=—roughly ground tanbark from which the tannic acid has been extracted by infusion.

=Spick-and-span=—new, fresh, clean, tidy; showing off one’s glad rags.

=Spiff=—clerk’s slang for premium or bonus.

=Spinage=—long whiskers.

=Spindle=—(1) a slender rod in a spinning wheel carrying thread which is to be twisted and wound on bobbins; (2) a rod used in hand spinning on which is wound the thread from the distaff.

=Spinning=—the process of drawing out and spinning textil fibers into thread, either by hand or machinery; a process in woolen manufacture by which the drawn fleece or yarn is twisted into yarns or threads of required thickness, technically known as “counts”, according to the fabrics for which intended. As spun, the yarn is wound onto large bobbins for warp or on to smaller spools for weft. Practically the same for other fibers. See Encyclopedia.

=Spinning jenny=—see Jenny.

=Spinning mule=—see Mule.

=Spitalfields=—a district of London, England, noted specially for its silk weaving industries; the name is also applied to silk goods therefrom, as a mark of quality.

=Spladder dashers=—one of the old forms of “spatterdash” (qv).

=Splay-footed=—toes turning outwardly.

=Spliced=—generally, a makeshift extension. See Crotch piece, Wheel piece, etc.

=Spliced heel=—trade term for hosiery with the heel made much heavier than the body of the stocking, usually spoken as s. heels-and-toes. See Double sole.

=Split falls=—same as Narrow f.

=Split foot=—trade term for stockings whereof the underfoot part is knitted separately from the upper or leg part, altho these may be seamlessly joined with practically the same motion or reciprocal interchange of loops, or otherwise. See English f.

=Split patterns= (=to=)—tailoring term for the operation of first drafting a pattern according to the subject’s actual measurements, then splitting it open from top to bottom, and inserting an allowance for a superfluous amount of goods for ease and style, a new pattern being usually drafted from the split one.

=Split straw=—(1) hat s. split into narrow strips; (2) hats of such straw (usually “yacht” shapes).

=Split tree=—a shoe t. divided longitudinally and expanding when placed in position.

=Splits=—weaving term for cloths woven with a center selvaged motion, so that when the piece is taken from the loom the wide fabric can be split into two or more practically perfect cloths; in weaving designated one s., two s., etc.

=Sponge=—general term for (1) the process of extra-shrinking fabrics preparatory to manufacturing into garments; see Shrink; (2) the act of lightly cleaning a slightly soiled garment with a damp sponge before pressing it.

=Sponge=—a fibrous and porous substance from the sea-depths, the framework of a marine animal.

=Sponge bag=—a light rubber or waterproof fabric b. for use of travelers, designed to hold bathing sponges.

=Sponge silk=—a soft, porous, knitted fabric of low grade spun silk, used for underwear, draperies, polishing cloths, etc.

=Sponging=—see Sponge.

=Spongy=—trade term for cloths, such as raincoatings, which have lost their firmness and finish and have become open, soft or porous; also applied to cloths imperfectly fulled or finisht.

=Sporran=—a leather or fur purse or pouch worn in front of the kilt by Highlanders in clan dress.

=Sporting tailor=—one who makes a specialty of, and whose business consists largely if not entirely of the making of hunting, golf, polo, motoring garments and clothes for “sporting” wear generally.

=Sportsman’s knife=—a pocket k. having numerous conveniences in the way of blades, etc., especially a k. with an extra long blade for skinning hides, etc.

=Spot delivery=—immediately.

=Spread front folder=—a folded shirt collar, the ends of which are broadly rounded or cut away.

=Spring=—a belled or flaring effect.

=Spring bottom trousers=—same as ordinary t. except that the bottoms flare out over the foot.

=Spring buckle=—a buckling device consisting of two pronged buckles connected by coiled wire springs, used on some trousers, overalls, suspenders, etc.

=Spring button=—a “snap” or “clasp” fastening.

=Spring heels=—term for shoes made without h. and worn by boys and children, the outer sole being sprung outward slightly at the heel and a small wedge of leather inserted between the outer sole and the innersole at the heel of the shoe before it is finally attacht by nailing.

=Spring mink=—m. caught in the spring, when the fur begins to change—naturally of quality inferior to winter-caught m.

=Spring needle=—term given to underwear knitted on round frames by means of a peculiar kind of n. so that the fabric is particularly elastic or springy.

=Spring tree=—see Extension t.

=Spring weight=—in the cloth trade suitings of 11 to 15 ounces and overcoatings of 16 to 22 ounces are so called. Compare Winter w., Summer w., Fall w., Tropical w.

=Sprinting pants=—see Athletic p.

=Sprinting shoes=—see Running s.

=Spruce=—kind o’ nice; dapper.

=Spun silk=—trade term for (1) floss, damaged cocoons, husks, waste, etc.; (2) s. yarns, fabrics, etc., from waste s. and damaged cocoons.

=Spun silver=—s. thread for weaving, especially a fiber thread covered with a s. filament.

=Spunk seed=—see Wig.

=Spur=—a heel-thing worn by men-brutes to jab into horses.

=Spy glass=—a small telescope for ship or field use.

=Squam hat=—a round h. of oiled waterproof material, made with a stiff crown and stiff rim, with ear tabs buttoning under the chin, worn by fishermen, seamen, etc. Compare Cape Ann h.

=Square=—see Tailor’s s.

=Square shouldered=—shoulders high and set well back.

=Square-toe=—a shoe made somewhat square at the t. as compared with a round or oval shape.

=Square-toes=—an old-fashioned, punctilious person.

=Squaring=—in hat making, the act of coating or saturating the inside of the crown with a solution of shellac for the purpose of hardening.

=Squash hat=—a low crowned soft felt h.

=Squirrel=—a small tree-living animal, the fur of which is highly prized for winter garments.

=Squirt=—dude.

=Stable cap=—a round c. with a visor, usually of material to match the groom’s suit, as whipcord, corduroy.

=Stable suit=—groom’s sack s. of whipcord. See Livery undress.

=Stall=—see Finger cot.

=Stamin=—a variety of linsey woolsey (obsolete).

=Stampt gloves=—die cut. Compare Table cut. (=Stamped-g.=)

=Stand-and-fall collar=—same as standing Prussian c.

=Stand-up=—same thing.

=Stander=—colloquial for a standing (shirt) collar.

=Standing band=—a sort of linen collar or neckdressing; obsolete. See Falling b.

=Standing Prussian collar=—a P. c. made on a high band and turned over; also called Russian c.

=Stanley helmet=—a light h. of pith, covered with pongee silk, having a sweat band set out from the body of the hat by rigid arms, thus allowing a circulation of air.

=Staple=—the fiber of any material, as long or shortstaple wool, cotton, etc.

=Staples=—merchandise that is always salable, thruout the year, not materially affected by vagaries of fashion, as plain black and blue cloths and garments thereof, handkerchiefs, white dress shirts, black hosiery, etc. Staples are seldom reduced or included in special sales. Compare Fancies and Novelties.

=Start-up=—a coarse, heavy sort of buskin, worn up to almost 1800.

=Station coat=—a slip-on overcoat for riding, driving or motor wear, made single-breasted, buttoning close to the neck, with a sort of Prussian collar, lined thruout as usual except the skirt, which is unlined.

=Stay tape=—narrow, white linen or cotton t. used by tailors for reinforcing edges, seams, etc.

=Stays=—straps attacht to the bottoms of pantaloons, passing under the foot.

=Stays=—corsets.

=Steam=—to sponge or shrink (qv); to remove bloom or gloss.

=Steam shrunk=—sponged or shrunk by being past thru perforated steam cylinders; the opposit of cold water or London s. (qv).

=Steamer rug=—see Rug.

=Steamer trunk=—a low, flat t. that can be slipt under a stateroom berth.

=Steinkirk=—a cravat (1674–1742) loosely folded, tied or twisted, with ends caught in a buttonhole of the coat.

=Stem-winder=—a keyless watch.

=Step=—tailor’s term for the lower edge of the notch in lapel of coat or waistcoat collar.

=Step-back=—tailoring term for frock coats made without plaits in the back skirts, the back parts of the coats being continuous as usual, but that on the left side being extended or stept-out 1½ to 2 inches at the waist line (showing an L angle), and lapt over the other skirt, both sides of the skirts being creast as usual down from where the sidebody is joined to the back part. In some overcoats the step is often 3 inches or more wide.

=Stephanotis=—a perfume derived from or imitating the odor of a plant of the jasmin family.

=Sterling=—trade designation of silver of 925–1000 fineness.

=Sticharion=—a vestment worn by sub-deacons in the Greek and Russian churches; a sort of dalmatic (qv) but narrower and shorter than the similar garment worn by deacons.

=Stick-pin=—same as Scarf p.

=Stick-up collar=—British for a standing shirt c.

=Stick-up-turned down=—British for the highband, folded or double shirt collar.

=Sticking plaster=—a surgical adhesiv p. composed of resin and litharge in the proportion of 1 to 5, coated on cotton; familiar to foot-ballists and other sports.

=Stiff front=—trade term for coats made with considerable heavy haircloth workt stiffly into the front parts.

=Stiffening=—a process in hat manufacture whereby the cones after sizing are given a firmness by means of a solution of shellac in alcohol.

=Stiletto beard=—a long, sharp imperial (qv).

=Stint rule=—see Task system.

=Stirrup hose=—woolen or cloth over-hose for riding wear (17th and 18th centuries) made as much as two yards wide at the top and edged with eyelet holes by means of which they were fastened to the breeches or girdle.

=Stitches=—as used in garment making, may be classified as back s., back-and-fore s., bar-tack s., basting s., button s., buttonhole s., chain s., cross s., crow’s-foot s., drawing s., felling s., fine drawing s., French felling s., padding s., prick s., private s., rentering s., running s., serging s., side s., stoating s., etc., which see.

=Stoat=—see Stoating.

=Stoating=—in tailoring the process of joining two pieces of material together either at a point where a seam is not desired, or instead of a seam, where thinness is the object. The material is placed edge to edge and the stitch nearly penetrates thru to the underside, the needle entering one piece and leaving the other at equal distances from the join, say ¹⁄₁₆ of an inch on either side and about the same distance apart, the thread being stretcht taut. When carefully done the join is barely visible.

=Stock=—originally a made-up, stiffly folded cravat of linen or silk, wrapt twice around the neck, the neck part usually with a metal spring attacht to keep it in place when worn.

=Stock=—the merchandise in store for sale.

=Stock boy=—in wholesale houses a young devil who bothers the traveling salesmen to take him “on the road” as assistant, and sometimes becomes a traveler and is particularly bedeviled in turn; or, in retail and other houses one with similar duties and proclivities.

=Stock covers=—lengths of hickory shirting or other stuff that ought to be thrown over the stock at night.

=Stock number=—see Lot n.

=Stock-room=—a loft where reserve stocks of merchandise are housed.

=Stock whip=—a herder’s whip having a short handle with a very long lash with snapper.

=Stockinet=—(1) an elastic textil made on a knitting frame, usually cotton, and having a fleeced back which may be of wool, used for undergarments, etc.; (2) a heavy elastic, close-woven material, usually white, from which livery breeches are made.

=Stocking=—a covering for the foot and lower part of the leg, close-fitting, elastic and usually knitted of wool, cotton or silk, especially such as reach to the knee in contradistinction to sock or half hose.

=Stocking frame=—(1) a machine for knitting stockings; (2) any knitting machine.

=Stocking saver=—a soft leather heel cover with instep strap, for wear inside of shoes.

=Stocking yarn=—loosely spun, coarse, woolen y. for heavy socks, hoods, mittens, etc., designed for hand knitting.

=Stockinger=—a knitter or weaver of stockings; a hosier (obsolete.)

=Stockingless=—having or wearing no stockings. You’ve heard of Hon. “Sockless” Jerry Simpson?

=Stogy=—(n) a coarse, stout boot or shoe. (Colloquial.)

=Stogy=—(adj) heavy; coarse; clumsy.

=Stole=—an ecclesiastical vestment; a long, narrow strip of the same material as the chasuble, with one to three crosses embroidered upon it with other elaborate decoration; worn as a symbol of priestly jurisdiction, in the administration of all the sacraments, at mass, etc. At mass the priest wears it crost over his left breast, the deacon over his left shoulder; at other times hanging straight down.

=Stone marten=—the beach m.; fur largely used for winter garments.

=Stonine=—a white, marble-like composition used for shirt studs, cuff buttons, etc., for evening dress wear.

=Stoop shouldered=—having roundish shoulders with a forward inclination.

=Store=—a place where you buy things.

=Store clothes=—readymade; not homemade.

=Storm boot=—an extra high-cut lace shoe, usually blucher model, and of stout leather, commonly waterprooft.

=Storm coat=—a rainproof c.; a mackintosh; an ulster.

=Storm collar=—in tailoring (1) a separate, large, standing c. or muffler, usually of fur, for rough outdoor wear, used over overcoats; (2) a deep ulster c.

=Storm hat=—a sou’wester.

=Storm hood=—a sort of sou’wester with a cape all around.

=Storm-proof=—said of viscolized or oil-drest tramping boots or shoes; of rainproof overcoatings, etc.

=Storm serge=—differing from other serges chiefly in being heavier and in having the bloom or high finish removed by steaming.

=Storm tabs=—straps or short belts attacht to overcoat or ulster sleeves at the wrist for purpose of closing the opening against the weather.

=Stormer=—an ulster (qv).

=Stote=—see Stoat.

=Stouts=—clothing trade term for readymade garments designed to fit corpulent persons or those with waist more than normal or the same as the breast measure. Compare Short s., Long s. and Extra s.

=Stove-pipe=—a silk hat.

=Straight=—one of the old names for kersey (qv).

=Straight box=—trade term for coats cut with straight side seams and full backs without center seams.

=Straight collar=—trade term for coat collars made with a straight under-line and without excessive paring of the neck of the garment as in the case of horseshoe c. (qv). This style c. is best made by hand and is a characteristic of fine tailoring, distinguisht for fitting the neck closely and neatly.

=Straight front sack=—a s. coat not rounded or cut away at the bottom corners, but hanging straight down.

=Straight front single-breasted frock=—same as s. b. frock, and s. b. “Prince Albert.”

=Straight jacket=—a garment unfortunately little used outside of insane asylums.

=Straight lace=—trade term for regular style laced shoes or Balmorals, distinguishing them from the flapt or Blucher style laced shoe.

=Straight stander=—a plain, standing shirt collar.

=Straightening=—in clothes manufacture the operation of trimming the edges of coats after being underprest.

=Strand=—a fiber, warp or weft yarn, string, etc.

=Strap=—tailoring term for (1) that part of a coat embraced in strap measurement (qv); (2) in an evening dress coat an L shaped extension of the skirt to the point of the front of forepart, forming a waistline seam therewith.

=Strap ends=—that part where boot (or shoe) straps are sewed into the boot (or shoe).

=Strap measure=—tailors’ term for the measurement taken from bottom of arm scye, over the front of shoulder, to seam on top where the back part is joined.

=Strap seam=—in tailoring the two parts are first joined by a plain or regular s. and prest open as usual, after which a strip of material is basted over the face of the s. and then stitcht.

=Strapt trousers=—having straps and buckles affixt to bottoms, passing beneath arch of shoe. (=Strapped.=)

=Straw=—cattle feed used in making summer hats.

=Straw cotton=—c. thread especially prepared for sewing straw, as in hat making.

=Straw hat=—worn only from June 1st to September 1st. Specially designated as alpine, boater, mackinaw, milan, panama, sennit, yacht, etc., which see.

=Straw needle=—a long, slender n. used in straw hat making.

=Strawberry blonde=—red haired.

=Street covert=—a top coat.

=Street gloves=—g. of heavy leather. Compare Dress g.

=Street railway conductor’s uniform=—varies with different roads and in different cities; most commonly a sack suit of dark blue cloth, the coat double-breasted in winter and single-breasted in summer, with an extra number of pockets very strongly made and re-enforced with cloth around the openings, which are slasht or without flaps, brass buttons; blue cloth cap with numbered badge.

=Strength test=—(silk thread) pure dye silk thread running 800 hundred yards to the ounce should be about 8 pounds strength; 1000 yards to ounce breaking at 6 to 6½ pounds, etc.

=Strength tester=—any machine or device for testing the strength of fibers, yarns, fabrics, etc.

=Stretch=—tailoring term signifying joining a smaller to a larger part; stretching an edge to more than its cut dimension, etc., for purposes of shapeliness, style, etc. Compare Hold in.

=Stretch block=—a wooden or metal device, a sort of last operated by a screw, used by hatters to stretch hats to larger sizes.

=Stretcher=—same as Litter (qv).

=Stretching=—a process in hat manufacture, following stiffening (qv) and preceding blocking (qv).

=Stride=—the fork or crotch seam of trousers.

=Striking bag=—same as punching b.

=Striking bag gloves=—see Punching b. g.

=String out=—said of silk fabrics the warp and weft of which, in wear, slip or slide aside or pull, leaving unsightly spots.

=Stripes=—see Trousers s.

=Stripes=—cant for prison clothes (qv).

=Stripy=—trade term for harsh, inelastic, non-curly wool fleece, used only for inferior goods.

=Stroke coat=—same as golf coat, tho a more appropriate name.

=Strop=—see Razor s.

=Stubbed=—shortened, abbreviated. (Tailoring.)

=Stubbed back=—tailoring term for a frock coat having a back which is cut across at the waist line and having the plaited part of the skirt (which may be closed or open-lapt) sewed thereto. Compare Frock b., Whole b., Step b., False b., Skirt, etc.

=Stubble=—sign that a shave is needed.

=Stud holes=—small round eyelets workt into a shirt bosom.

=Student cap=—same as mortarboard or Oxford c. (qv).

=Studs=—shirt bosom jewelry.

=Stuft leather=—leather filled with oil or other greasy liquid for a specific purpose, as waterproofing.

=Stump=—a pointed roll of paper, felt or chamois used by artists in blending drawings and by actors in blending the grease paints used in making up.

=Stumpt=—said of frock coat back parts that are not continuous but are cut across at the waist line and then continued therefrom in the skirts. (=Stumped.=)

=Style=—a will o’ the wisp that men chase quite as assiduously as women; the touch of la mode that wanes ere it is recognized; a something as insubstantial as the favor of rulers, as light as the air, as protean as a hurricane, and fickle as a woman who knows her beauty and how to use it; a leading pursuit of the frivolous and wealthy and a Godsend to merchants and manufacturers.

=Style-book=—a pictorial eulogy of the sartorial abilities of the publishers, which, if deficient, can be glost over by a clever writer and a cleverer artist.

=Styler=—one who designs or advises as to styles, patterns, etc., for manufacturers of articles of apparel.

=Stylish=—in the current mode; not last season’s; popular; a common adjectiv in Grand street.

=Stylist=—see Styler.

=Styptic pencil=—an antiseptic healer of cuts, popular with self-shavers. Also called S. stick.

=Sub=—affectionate for substitute, an extra or temporary clerk.

=Subbing=—helping out or taking another clerk’s place temporarily; doing other than one’s regular work.

=Subfusk=—dusky or dull of hue; of a dark but indefinable color.

=Substitute=—see Sub.

=Substitute=—something otherwise than as ordered.

=Substitution=—an ineradicable evil.

=Suede=—glove leather from which the face cuticle has been removed by shaving and pumicing, the flesh or inner side of the skin forming the outside of a glove and having a soft, velvety or ooze finish; “undrest kid”.

=Sugar loaf=—a high, silk hat, narrowing toward the top.

=Suint=—see Yolk.

=Suit=—(1) coat, waistcoat and trousers; (2) undershirt and drawers; (3) pajama blouse and trousers; (4) bathing trunks and shirt, etc.

=Suit bag=—a style of hand luggage of great capacity, shaped somewhat like a s. case, but opening from a common center-hinge into two equal parts.

=Suit case=—a long, flat, rectangular traveling bag or portmanteau, usually of leather, of such size that coats, trousers, etc., may be carried therein with the least amount of folding.

=Suit case umbrella=—an u. with a folding rod or a detachable handle, effecting a reduction in length, enabling the u. to be carried inside the case.

=Suit club=—an association of deluded persons who agree to pay into a common fund (usually held by the organizer of the club, who conducts all its affairs, more or less to his own or only benefit), a fixt sum per week. A drawing by lot determins who shall get his suit that week, after which, ordinarily, he pays no further dues; and so on until the last man gets his suit, of course by paying more than anyone else, altho he may believe that he is paying no more than the clothes are worth, by reason of specious arguments about quantity-buying advanced by the plausible organizer of the club, the inducement to all the members being the element of chance, or rather prospect of being among the earliest and least taxt buyers. Of course, there are occasionally formed clubs where all members pay the same amount from first to last, there being no pecuniary inducement beyond the easy payment plan and the possibility of being an early winner. The first form of s. c. has repeatedly been declared illegal by the courts but is hard to suppress, despite the exemplary punishment meted out to the offenders.

=Suit-coat=—tailor’s term for distinguishing a garment so markt as part of a suit order, and not a complete order in itself.

=Suit of hair=—a head of hair. (Southern colloquialism.)

=Suit-pants=—see S.-coat.

=Suit-vest=—see S.-coat.