Chapter D (1)

=Dalmatic=—a wide sleeved tunic reaching to the knees, worn over the alb or cassock at mass and communion by deacons; also a medieval state or coronation robe. As an ecclesiastical vestment it was originally white with wide perpendicular stripes of purple; as now worn it follows the color of the day with stripes of embroidery.

=Damascened=—see Damascus blade and Jowhir.

=Damascus blade=—general term for swords famed for the quality and temper of the metal as well as the beauty of the jowhir or watering of the blades.

=Damask=—a twill woven fabric of linen, cotton, silk, etc., with loom-figured all-over patterns.

=Damask=—steel workt in the Damascus style, showing the wavy lines of the different metals; also called watered and twisted.

=Dame fashion=—a fetich.

=Damier=—large square checks.

=Dancing clog=—a laced leather low shoe with wooden sole (very noisy).

=Dancing pump=—a low-heeled, low shoe with short vamps, with or without ornamental bow at instep.

=Dandified=—dandyish; foppish.

=Dandy=—a beau; not quite a dude.

=Dandy=—something out of the common; first-class.

=Dandy trap=—a loose stone, which slips when trodden on, and, in wet weather, throws up the mud under it, to the great detriment of the clothes of the victim.

=Darbies=—cant for irons or handcuffs.

=Darning stitch=—a s. peculiar to darning or embroidery.

=Dart=—a place in a garment from which a tapering piece or V has been cut to make it fit the figure, as at the waist. Same as fish.

=Dauber=—a small brush or other arrangement for applying blacking or polish to shoes, incidentally soiling the hands.

=Day dress=—generally, single and double-breasted frock coats, as contrasted with swallowtails and Tuxedos for evening dress and sack coats for day business and lounge wear.

=De Joinville=—a neck dressing, a plain, flat strip of satin or silk which must be folded before it is put on, and is passed thru a flat (gold) clasp or “scarf ring”, having a hinge at one side and a spike or projection on the inner side of the rear part for engaging and keeping in place the adjusted tie; sometimes this clasp is made with a hinged pin; also the scarf is frequently tied as an ascot, puff, once-over, waterfall, etc.

=Dead gold=—unburnisht.

=Dead hairs=—see Kemp.

=Dead horse=—(nautical commerce) wages paid before they are earned.

=Dead wool=—fleece taken from pelts of sheep that have died. Same as Kemp.

=Debeige=—see Beige.

=Decoration=—trade term for the white or bright-colored threads used to lighten up worsted and other otherwise plainish fabrics; usually employed when the “decoration” is of silk or mercerized threads.

=De soy=—see Sergedusoy.

=Deep mourning=—lusterless black outer garments with crepe and no social intercourse or amusements.

=Deep scye=—a variety of armhole not fitting up close under the arm, as is usual, but where the front and back parts of the coat are cut away in a descending curve to a point a little above the waist, affecting, of course, the style of sleeve also.

=Degage=—easy; unconventional; neglige.

=Delaine=—a name given to combing wools. See Wool.

=Delivery=—getting goods to the purchaser; usually behind promised time.

=Delivery boy=—a pert young imp, hired, in the opinion of customers, to talk back to them.

=Deltoid muscle=—the pons asinorum of tailoring.

=Demi-toilette=—day dress.

=Demi-vest=—see Vest-front.

=Denim=—a heavy, twilled cotton fabric, usually woven with plain colored warp threads, as blue, gray, brown, etc., with white weft; used for overalls, jumpers, etc. Dungaree.

=Denmark satin=—a coarse, worsted fabric, woven with smooth, satin twilled surface; a variety of lasting cloth.

=Dent’s=—trade diminutiv for the general line of gloves made by Dent, Allcroft & Co., London.

=Dental floss=—a lightly twisted antiseptic heavy silk yarn used for cleansing between the teeth.

=Dental powder=—“tooth powder”. See Dentifrice.

=Dentifrice=—any substance or preparation used in cleansing the teeth.

=Dentist’s coat=—a short working jacket of heavy drill or duck, not unlike barber’s c., barkeeper’s c., waiter’s c., etc.

=Department store=—the apotheosis of the junk shop.

=Depilatory=—a chemical preparation for removing hair from face or other parts of the body.

=Deposit=—a tailor’s insurance against loss if you fail to call for your suit.

=Derby jacket=—same as D. sack.

=Derby sack=—a single-breasted s. coat with the regular front, with a short underarm cut terminating in a waistline extending back to the side seam, meeting a body-shaped back part which has a center vent reaching to the made waistline, and finisht with inverted (side) plaits also reaching to the waistline.

=Deshabille=—undress.

=Designer=—one who originates and plans styles for manufacturing; in wholesale clothing manufacturing one who also cuts the (first) paper patterns, which are afterward turned over to an assistant to grade into sizes.

=Detroit cap=—a c., usually of fur, having a round crown, a rolling band highest at the back and sloping to the front, meeting a visor that may be rolled up or down.

=Devil=—a machine employed in hat manufacturing for thoroly mixing furs after carroting.

=Devil=—(woolen manufacture) see Willowing machine.

=Devil’s receptacles=—a nickname given to the wide, long, trailing, slasht sleeves worn by the gay bucks of the 14th century.

=Devon=—a heavy, close-milled overcoat cloth, in character between melton and kersey; one of the old names for a variety of kersey.

=Dew retting=—the decomposition of flax by dew. See Retting.

=Dhotee=—an East Indian concession to modesty. See Waistcloth.

=Diagonal=—general term for worsted fabrics having a diagonal twill produced by raising the warp threads progressivly, from left to right, or right to left, usually at an angle of 45°, in groups of 2, 3, 4, etc., and filling in the weft threads to make them stand out in ridges.

=Diapers=—our first garments.

=Dice=—a square, woven pattern.

=Dicer=—a silk hat.

=Dicky=—originally (about 1809) a stiff, standing collar; latterly a separate shirt bosom, with collar band, worn in place of shirt by the impecunious. (Also Dickey).

=Didies=—see Diapers.

=Digitalia=—the fingered glove of the ancient Romans. See Chirothecae.

=Dimity=—a fine cotton fabric having a stripe or figure raised on the face and deprest on the back.

=Dining jacket=—see Dinner coat.

=Dink=—to dress or bedeck. (Scotch).

=Dinky=—absurdly small, skimpy or insufficient.

=Dinner jacket=—an informal dress coat without tails, somewhat like a sack coat, for dinner wear, men’s evening parties, but not where ladies are present, as at balls, operas, etc. Also called Cowes coat and Tuxedo coat.

=Dip=—in tailoring, a downward inclination of the waist line of a frock coat or the bottom line of a sack coat.

=Dip-front=—see Dip.

=Diplomatic uniform=—the court dress of American ministers abroad, while officially “the ordinary dress of an American citizen” is, by official approval, a plain dress coat and waistcoat, knee breeches, black silk stockings and low shoes. This simplicity of attire, contrasted with oriental sumptuousness and European splendor makes our ambassadors and ministers peculiarly conspicuous.

=Dirk=—(1) a Scotch dagger generally without chape or guard; (2) a midshipman’s side arm, either straight or curved. (British navy.)

=Dirk knife=—a clasp k. with a large dirk shaped blade.

=Discharge printing=—a method of producing patterns in textil fabrics by dyeing in the piece of a solid color and printing the designs with a bleaching agent. Compare Batik, Extracted, Resist dyeing, Tied-and-dried, etc.

=Discount=—a rebate for prompt pay, or for imperfections, or out of courtesy (as to clergymen), or delusivly as in most advertisements.

=Display=—(1) merchandise appropriately arranged for public view; (2) personal ostentation.

=Distaff=—a rod or staff for holding a quantity of wool or flax in hand spinning; usually held under the left arm.

=Distingue=—very smart; elegant.

=Dittis=—a fabric formerly made in Manchester, used for (and whence the name of) Ditty bags (qv).

=Ditty bag=—(nautical) a small bag to hold sewing gear, shaving tackle, etc.; a sailor’s “housewife”.

=Ditty box=—a small box for holding a sailor’s thread, needles, brushes, combs, etc.

=Diver’s helmet=—see Diving dress.

=Diving dress=—a waterproof, air-tight garment, like a combined blouse and trousers, with helmet, the whole hermetically sealed, heavily weighted, and supplied thru pipes with air for the wearer to breathe.

=Diving suit=—see D. dress.

=Division list=—a proportionate scale of selling prices, used in the clothing trade, showing the relativ prices of suits, coats, trousers, vests and combinations thereof.

=Division square=—a tailor’s s. marked with the various fractional computations commonly required in sub-dividing the taken measures when drafting.

=Dobbie=—that part of a loom that raises and lowers the harness frames. Also called Witch. (=Dobby=).

=Doctor’s cap=—(scholastic) usually of black velvet, with gold tassel. See Mortarboard c.

=Doctor’s gown=—(scholastic) a loose flowing g., usually of silk, with round, open sleeves barred with black velvet and faced down front with same; or the velvet may correspond in color with the binding or edging of hood.

=Doctored=—(1) manipulated; (2) adulterated.

=Doeskin=—a high grade woolen suiting, and trousering material, close woven, fine twilled, fulled to a very considerable degree and finisht as required, usually (1) dry, (2) doeskin, (3) melton or (4) worsted, being respectivly (1) sheared of all nap, baring the weave, (2) smooth nap, weave nearly concealed, (3) a close standing nap, (4) smooth, hard and glossy; there are also other finishes.

=Doeskin=—a fine quality of jean (qv) closely twilled and with a wool filling.

=Doeskin finish=—see Doeskin and Dress faced.

=Dog=—vernacular for affected or redundant finery or style; to put on airs; vulgar ostentation.

=Dog-rabbitting=—see Piecing-out.

=Dogskin=—a stout, dry, inelastic glove leather made from kyudles or sheep in imitation of it.

=Dolman=—a sort of cape or cloak with wide open sleeves; also the uniform jacket of a hussar, worn like a cape, with the sleeves hanging loose.

=Dom Pedro=—a heavy leather brogan.

=Domestic=—made here; not imported—for which thanks often should be given.

=Domestic finish=—laundry term for linen finisht without gloss and with but little bluing.

=Domestics=—cotton goods of American manufacture as distinguisht from imported goods. Always used in the plural.

=Domet=—a loosely woven, napt, all-cotton, flannel, originally woven with a woolen weft; largely used for neglige shirts, night robes, children’s wear, etc. See Outing cloth.

=Domino=—(1) a mask or half mask worn at masquerades; (2) an adjustable robe or hood worn at masquerades; (3) a loose flowing hooded garment of ecclesiastical wear.

=Donegal tweed=—strictly that hand-scoured, homespun tweed made wholly in the county of Donegal, Ireland, on the hand looms of the peasantry; more loosely tweeds made of Yorkshire yarns woven, dyed and finisht in Donegal; falsely, any fabric in imitation thereof.

=Doorman’s livery=—same as Footman’s dress 1.

=Dornex=—a heavy 17th century coarse linen, used for servants’ clothing.

=D’Orsay=—trade term for a certain well-rounded effect in the curl of a hat brim. Compare Pencil curl and Anglesea.

=Double-and-twist=—(1) trade term for weaving yarns doubled and twisted in combinations of two or more colors; (2) fabrics woven from such yarns—Bannockburns and Drummond worsteds, being examples.

=Double-breasted=—loosely, any coat, waistcoat, undershirt or other garment having a double thickness in the front with a double row of buttons and buttonholes or other means of fastening.

=Double-breasted cutaway=—a variation of the single-breasted frock, known about 1840, and but infrequently seen since, despite attempts to revive it. See Cutaway frock coat.

=Double-breasted reefer=—same as D.-b. sack coat.

=Double-breasted sack coat=—see Sack c.

=Double cloth=—general term for any fabric composed of two single textures woven and joined at one operation, the conjunction being effected by interlacing part of the warp threads of one texture with those of the opposit texture, as (1) a fabric with two warp surfaces and one of weft in the center; (2) a fabric with two weft surfaces and one of warp in the center; (3) a fabric with two distinct series of warps and wefts, each woven separately, but united at regular intervals to each other during the course of weaving. Unless the object is to produce effects not possible with single cloths the doubling is usually for the purpose of giving weight and body without the expense of weaving the face pattern thru and thru. Also called Backt-c., Frenchback, etc.

=Double collar=—a folded c. (qv).

=Double corkscrew=—see Chain-weave serge.

=Double crepe=—a very crisp, crinkly black silk c. (qv) used for deep mournings. Compare Single c.

=Double cuff=—a c. that is folded and turned back on itself or onto the sleeve. Compare Single c., Fold-back c.

=Double dyed=—dyed twice over; thoroly impregnated; said also of mixt goods dyed once in a cotton dye and once in a wool dye, or otherwise, as the case may be.

=Double faced=—fabrics having a pattern on each side.

=Double knit=—knitted with a double stitch, giving a double thickness to the fabric.

=Double milled=—sheared twice.

=Double pick=—two filling threads run together into the same shed of the warp.

=Double pile=—any fabric with pile or heavy nap on two sides, as double plush, double-faced canton flannel, etc.

=Double satin de Lyon=—a s. having both surfaces glossy.

=Double sole=—trade term for hosiery made with a s. much heavier than the body of the stocking. See Spliced heel.

=Double soled=—term for shoes made with extra thick soles.

=Double-stitcht=—an edge or seam finish obtained by stitching twice in parallel rows of stated width, as “¼ in. d. s.”. See “Single s.”.

=Double-stitcht seam=—same as cord s. (qv) but stitcht twice and with a larger underlay or outlet for the second row of stitching. Also called Lap s.

=Double-width=—generally, all fabrics ranging from 48 to 60 in. wide and folded lengthwise before being rolled into bolts; originally goods were “single width” (27 to 36 in.) and many are still so woven, fine trousering and shirtings particularly; strictly, the proper term is “quarter”, as four-quarter (⁴⁄₄) for 36 in.; six-quarter (⁶⁄₄) for 54 in., etc.

=Double work=—knitting term for the use of two threads together instead of one, and for the fancy effects so produced.

=Doublet=—a close-fitting outer body garment with sleeves and sometimes with short skirts and belted at the waist, worn from 15th to 17th centuries, usually with hose.

=Doupe=—gauze weaving.

=Dowdy=—see Slob.

=Dowlas=—originally, a strong, plain woven linen fabric used for working blouses, etc.; latterly, a sort of stout calico.

=Down at the heels=—poverty; destitution; general seediness; needing clothes.

=Downright=—see Wool.

=Drafting cape=—see Measuring c. and Beatty c.

=Drap=—French word for cloth; seldom applied to cotton fabrics.

=Drap d’alma=—a fine, close, flat ribbed twilled fabric of wool or silk and wool, finisht on but one side.

=Drap d’ete=—a fine double warp worsted fabric with fine lengthwise cords or ridges on the face, and a smooth back, used for dress and clerical wear, summer coats, etc.

=Drape=—loosely, any smooth-faced fine cloth for dress wear; crepe (qv).

=Draper=—a dealer in cloths; also a clothier, haberdasher or dry goods merchant.

=Draw string=—a tightening tape or s. working thru a gathered hem, or eyelets.

=Drawer supports=—any device attacht to trousers (or to suspenders) for the purpose of holding up the nether undergarments.

=Drawers=—nether undergarments.

=Drawing=—a process of woolen manufacture by which the combed fleece assumes a yarn or thread-like appearance; roving.

=Drawing stitch=—a method of making an edge-to-edge join or a seam without a lap, a s. being taken up thru one side, then drawn over and down under and up thru the other side, and so on; usually employed joining collars to coats.

=Drawn in=—see Hold in.

=Dreadnought=—see Fearnought.

=Drech=—trash; trashy. (German.)

=Dress=—general term for garments and articles of apparel and the science and manner of wearing them; more particularly one’s outer attire.

=Dress=—tailor’s term, indicating the manner in which a man disposes himself in his trousers, necessitating a certain difference in the crotch-fulness of one trousers leg, as “right d.” or “left d.”

=Dress=—(=navy=) the uniform to be worn upon the reception of various prescribed officers of the government, governors of states and territories, American ambassadors, ministers, etc.; on visits in part to commanding officers; on Sunday morning inspections. Consists of—for all commissioned officers, except chaplains, chief boatswains, chief gunners, chief carpenters and chief sailmakers—frock coat, undress trousers, (white may be prescribed) cockt hat, epaulets, sword and undress belt, scarf, white gloves, medals and badges; for officers excepted above and for warrant officers, mates and clerks, the same as “undress A”; for midshipmen, the same as prescribed for commissioned officers, substituting blue cap for cockt hat and shoulder knots for epaulets; for chief petty officers, except bandmasters, and for stewards and officers’ cooks; blue dress: blue cloth coat and blue cloth trousers, blue cap, white shirt, white collar and cuffs, black cravat; white dress: white coat, white trousers, white cap, white shirt, white collar, black cravat. For bandsmen; blue dress: full dress coat, blue trousers, helmet, white standing collar, belt, gloves (and for bandmaster, a sword); white dress: same as blue dress but with white trousers. For all other enlisted men; blue dress: blue overshirt, blue cloth trousers, blue cap, neckerchief, knife lanyard (seaman branch only); white dress: dress jumper, white dress trousers, white hat, neckerchief, knife lanyard (seaman branch only); (=Revenue cutter service=) worn by officers performing any special duty with enlisted men under arms away from the vessel, and when calling officially upon officers other than commanders of vessels of war or military posts; consists of frock coat, white or blue trousers, cap, shoulder straps, sword and black leather belt over the coat which is worn buttoned.

=Dress belt=—(=army=) see Army b.

=Dress board=—(=navy=) a bulletin b. on which the prescribed dress or uniform of the day to be worn by the crew is described by executiv officer’s orders.

=Dress breeches=—(=army=) for all officers, of same material and with same stripes as d. trousers, cut in the prescribed pattern and fastened from the knee down with dark bone buttons or with lacings. See also Service b.

=Dress cap=—(=army=) for all officers, same as Full dress c. (qv) except with certain differences of trimming and insignia. For enlisted men: of dark blue cloth of same style as prescribed for officers, bearing a stripe of cloth of the color of the corps, department or arm of service, with appropriate rating insignia.

=Dress coat=—see Evening dress.

=Dress coat=—(=army=) a sack c. of dark blue cloth or serge. For general officers: double-breasted with high rolling collar and 2 rows of gilt buttons groupt according to rank, 3 buttons on cuff; skirt to extend one-third of distance to knee, with 4 inch slit at hip for saber; all pockets inside. For all other officers: single-breasted with standing collar, c. closing with flap containing concealed fastenings, c. cut form fitting with saber slit and side vents and trimmed around bottom, front edges, collar and vents with 1¼ in. flat black mohair braid; shoulder and collar ornaments per regulations. For enlisted men: a single-breasted sack c. of dark blue cloth, cut with a straight front, fastened with 6 buttons down the front; standing collar; shoulder loops of same goods let in at shoulder seam and fastened to collar with small button; 3 buttons on cuffs; collar, shoulder loops and cuffs piped with cord-edge braid of the color of corps, department or arm of service.

=Dress derby=—a d.-shaped hat, covered with gros-grain or other plain silk; for wear with dinner jacket. Also called Tuxedo hat.

=Dress faced=—a term sometimes given to woolen cloths, such as doeskin, broadcloth, beaver, etc., having a slight nap. Compare Bareface finish, Scotch finish, Velvet finish.

=Dress frock coat=—(=Revenue cutter service=) same as Full dress f. c., but worn without epaulets.

=Dress gloves=—(1) generally, g. of fine kid; (2) specifically, g. of white kid or fabric for evening dress.

=Dress jumper—(navy)= worn by all enlisted men, except chief petty officers, officers’ stewards, officers’ cooks and bandsmen; made of bleacht cotton drill, of pattern similar to the blue overshirt (see naval overshirt) except that the body hangs straight and loose to 2 to 3 inches below the hips; trimmings same as for blue overshirt (but all of white), the collar and cuffs being of dark blue flannel.

=Dress refines=—see Refine cloth.

=Dress reform=—an ever-recurring evanescent dream.

=Dress reformer=—a human by-product of civilization subject to cerebral coruscations, occasionally menacing to the peace of his fellow men.

=Dress shield=—a light rubber or other perspiration-proof device sometimes used in the armholes of coats.

=Dress shirt=—a (loose) trade term for a white or colored s. with a full set-in stiff bosom. Compare Evening d. s.

=Dress shirt protector=—see Shirt p.

=Dress suit=—see Evening dress.

=Dress suit case=—see Suit c.

=Dress tie=—a folded strip of white linen, lawn or dimity to be tied in a bow, worn only with full evening dress.

=Dress trousers=—see Evening dress.

=Dress trousers—(army)= for all general officers, including staff corps and departments but not engineers—of dark blue cloth without stripe, welt or cord; for chief of artillery, of light blue cloth with 1½ in. stripe of scarlet cloth; for all other officers, the same as for full dress. For enlisted men: of sky-blue kersey, of regulation cut.

=Dress uniform—(army)= the prescribed u. worn by officers at reviews, inspections, parades and other ceremonies when the troops are in d. u.; at such other duties under arms as may be prescribed; on courtsmartial, courts of inquiry, and boards of officers when prescribed; also authorized as a mess dress, and for social occasions when full dress is not worn. For all officers, dismounted: dress coat and trousers, dress cap, black shoes; under arms add dress belt (worn under coat) saber and white gloves; same, mounted: dress coat, dress breeches, dress cap, drab leather gloves, black boots, spurs; under arms, add dress belt (under the coat) and saber; for chaplains, dismounted: dress coat and trousers, chaplain’s hat, black shoes, white gloves (when occasions require gloves); same, mounted: dress coat and breeches, chaplain’s hat, black boots, spurs; for enlisted men: worn when prescribed by commanding officer; dismounted: dress coat and trousers, dress cap, black shoes and, when under arms, white gloves, russet leather belt, and cartridge box; mounted: dress coat, service breeches, dress cap, russet leather shoes, leggings, spurs, drab leather gloves and, if under arms, saber belt and cartridge box.

=Dress waistcoat=—see Evening d. w.

=Dress worsted=—general term for fine grades of unfinisht and face-finisht worsteds, used for dress wear. See Unfinisht worsted. Whipcord, etc.

=Dressed leather=—any l. that has been curried or stuft with oils to increase its flexibility, its resistance to water, etc.

=Dressing=—(1) a process in weaving by which every thread of the warp is uniformly set in its proper position in the loom; (2) last process in shoemaking consisting of final applications of dressing or polish, the treatment of dull or bright spots, stains, etc.

=Dressing bag=—a fashion-writer’s affectation. See Suit case, Kit b., Traveling b., etc.

=Dressing gown=—a loose g. or robe worn while dressing or in undress.

=Dressy=—fond of dress; supposedly elegant or stylish.

=Drill=—trade abbreviation for drilling (qv).

=Drilling=—general term for stout twilled cotton and linen fabrics used for pockets, interlinings, summer trousers, etc.

=Driving coat=—(1) a c. designed for protection or style when driving; (2) a duster (qv).

=Driving gloves=—g. with re-enforced palms and under-fingers, often with gauntlet tops.

=Driving hood=—a knitted covering for the head that may be worn variously, as a h. over a cap or without a cap, or as a throat muffler, etc., according to adjustment.

=Driving rug=—a carriage robe.

=Drop stitch=—knitting term for a skipt or slipt s., done to effect a lacy or other pattern.

=Drum-major’s shako—(marine corps)= see Full dress cap.

=Drummer=—usually the whole band, judging by his noise.

=Drummond worsted=—in general, any plain Oxford w., twill woven, one warp of black and one of one or two shades of gray (or white), both twisted, and then alternated, the filling yarn being of the same colorings and arrangement. Strictly the term belongs to worsteds manufactured by a firm of English weavers of that name and with whom this peculiar plainish effect seems to have originated.

=Dry cleaning=—a naptha or other chemical process; meaning not washed in water.

=Dry finish=—trade term for woolen fabrics (as doeskins) sheared of all nap, baring the weave.

=Drying frame=—any contrivance for drying underwear, hosiery, etc., in shape and without loss of size, the garment being pulled over same and adjusted; some of these frames are made of wood, others of spring wire, etc.

=Dubbing=—a preparation for softening and waterproofing leather.

=Dub=—(1) in weaving, to dress with teazels for raising a nap (see Teazeling); (2) in leather making, the act or process of rubbing in a softening or waterproof mixture or dressing.

=Duck=—a heavy, strong, plain woven linen or cotton fabric similar to, but of lighter weight than, canvas, used for summer clothing, hospital, army and navy uniforms, and as vestings, etc. In weaving, two threads of warp are laid side by side and treated as one.

=Dude=—not worth description.

=Duds=—clothes.

=Duffels=—an old-time heavy woolen cloaking with a thick tufted or knotted nap, originally made in Duffel, Flanders; match cloth.

=Duffle bag=—about the same as Wangan b (qv).

=Dull=—in the shoe trade, a general term indicating a distinction between bright or patent (or enamel leathers) and calf, kid and other mat or dull finisht leathers.

=Dumbbells=—link cuff buttons with rigid bars; name from having originally been made with plain balls at either end, resembling dumbbells.

=Dummy=—a figure on which clothes are displayed; a “form” (qv).

=Dummy box coat=—not a real c.; an unusable c., carried by coachmen for show; an illustration of the economics of snobbery.

=Dummy buttonhole=—not cut thru but stitcht on the surface only, for purposes of ornament.

=Dummy try-on=—a basted-together fictitious “try-on” of linings and interlinings “fitted” to the customer while the actual coat is being made up without t.-o. or fitting; a device of “cheap tailors” to save the expense of try-ons. Compare Bluff try-on.

=Dumps=—skates. See “High dutchers”.

=Dun=—a result of not paying your bills.

=Dunce cap=—a tall, conical paper c. awarded to some luckless scholar in the old days for lack of brilliancy and worn, for the weal of the class, in some prominent corner of the room, or on a seat by the teacher. “Those were happy days”. Also called Fool’s c.

=Dundee=—a twill-finisht thibet, made to imitate unfinisht worsted.

=Dundrearys=—long, flowing side whiskers.

=Dungaree=—in the British navy a fine quality of blue jeans used for sailors’ shirt collars, watch-marks on sleeves, etc.; also in a coarse grade for working clothes; in the American navy a coarse cotton stuff similar to denim; a term commonly used in reference to navy working clothes.

=Dungaree junipers=—(=navy=) a blouse of blue denim, single-breasted sack pattern, buttoned to the neck and loosely fitting; worn by enlisted men on working duty.

=Dungaree trousers=—(=navy=) working t. of blue denim, made with a fly instead of with front falls, worn by enlisted men.

=Dunnage bag=—a large, long b., commonly of canvas, for laundry, etc.

=Dunrobin=—a fine Scotch plaid.

=Durance=—lasting (qv). (Same as below?)

=Durant=—a strong, close-grained woolen stuff of Revolutionary times.

=Dust=—an article kept in stock in large quantities in all mercantil establishments and usually hard to move save by continued exertion.

=Dust coat=—same as Duster.

=Dust shield=—see Wind s.

=Duster=—a light overcoat of linen, mohair or other thin fabric, once extensivly used for traveling or driving.

=Dutch metal=—an alloy from which much of the “gold” lace of commerce is manufactured.

=Duttees=—the coarse brown calicoes of India.

=Duxbak=—proprietary name for a semi-waterproof canvas used for sporting and rough weather clothing.

=Dye bath=—a solution of coloring matter for dyeing purposes.

=Dyebeck=—same as Dye bath.

=Dyeing=—the art and operation of coloring textil fabrics by immersion in a properly prepared bath; dyes are chiefly vegetable or anilin, and a source of anguish if they fade unduly. See an encyclopedia.

=Dyer=—one who dyes fabrics.

=Dyer’s weed=—see Woad.

=Dye-stuff=—any material used for dyeing.

E

=Ear caps=—see E. muffs.

=Ear flaps=—those parts of a cap that may be turned down to cover and protect the ears from cold.

=Ear guards=—padded leather protectors worn by footballers.

=Ear lock=—the lock of hair curling over or near the ear; any lock of hair on the side of the head; a love lock.

=Ear muffs=—pads or m. for wear over the ears in cold weather, usually of velvet, held in place by an elastic cord or metal spring. Popular in St. Louis with the first touch of frost.

=Ear rings=—jewelry worn in the ears, the lobs of which are pierced for the purpose; once upon a time gentlemen wore them; nowadays noticed mostly on foreign laborers.

=Ear tabs=—see E. flaps and E. muffs.

=Ear whiskers=—short tufts of scrub reaching to the depth of the ears.

=Easter=—tailor’s harvest time.

=Eating apron=—a garment for young children, having a bib and sleeves made of one piece; also an a. without sleeves.

=Eau de Cologne=—a strongly perfumed toilet water; properly, that for which the city of Cologne is celebrated. In this city the industry was establisht in the beginning of the 17th century by Paul Feminis and Maria Clementine, a nun, jointly possessing the secret and conducting the business; at his death Feminis bequeathed the formula to the Farina family, while the nun left it to Peter Schaeben; both families still carry on the business and are the leading manufacturers.

=Ecru=—raw color, as of silk, linen, etc.; unbleacht.

=Edge baster=—in ready-to-wear clothing manufacture, a workman who finishes the work begun by the straighteners, underbasters and edge operators, by turning in the outer part and facing (of a coat) and basting the edges preparatory to final felling and stitching.

=Edge operator=—in ready-to-wear clothing manufacture, a workman who does only the first seaming of coat edges.

=Edge setting=—the process of burnishing the edges of shoe soles on a lathe-like machine called an e. setter.

=Edge trimming=—see foregoing.

=Edges=—the e. of coats, waistcoats, etc., are variously denominated, according to manner of making and finish, blind e., bluff e., braided e., bound e., corded e., double-stitcht e., felled e., piped e., plain e., prickt e., raw e., single-stitcht e., etc., which see.

=Effect threads=—weaving term for decorativ threads of different colors added to worsted and woolen fabrics, usually of mercerized cotton or silk, or resist-dyed wool or worsted.

=Effigeen=—an old-time lining fabric.

=Egyptian=—trade term for cotton grown in the Nile districts of Africa; very silky, smooth and strong; more commonly known as Maco.

=Eiderdown=—a thick woolen-pile fabric, woven on a cotton stockinet body.

=Elastic canvas=—a plain-woven fabric of linen or cotton, unbleacht or bleacht, of various weights, used for stiffening garments.

=Elastic gore=—a woven tape-like fabric, made in such a manner with rubber threads that it forms an elastic tape or goring which is inserted in the sides of a shoe immediately over the ankles, made so that the shoe may be stretcht and drawn on and held on the foot by this elastic goring, no lacing being used in this style of shoe which is commonly known as Congress shoe or gaiter.

=Elastic seam=—proprietary term for a make of undergarments of jeans, nainsook, etc., having strips of elastic knitted material let in between seams, or in places of strain, etc.

=Elastic stocking=—a s. of silk and rubber threads for reducing swelling, aiding the muscles, etc.

=Elastic twill=—a fine flexible cloth used for dress wear.

=Elastic webbing=—any garter or suspender w. of silk, cotton or other material having interwoven threads of pure rubber.

=Elasticity test=—to determin the quality and e. of silk thread, take a yard of thread and hold it firmly in each hand on some set table or object, and keeping one hand stationary, start to stretch it. If it breaks off short there is either cotton or other adulterant.

=Elbow sleeves=—term for undershirts with sleeves reaching to the elbows.

=Electric seal=—imitation sealskin, usually muskrat or cat.

=Electric tanning=—treatment by electric current in connection with the astringent liquor, to hasten conversion into leather.

=Elegant=—a French dude.

=Elevator-boy’s suit=—same as Hall-boy’s s.

=Elk skin=—a soft, pliable, oilless leather, usually made of calf s. and tanned by a chemical process; used chiefly for athletic and sporting shoes.

=Ell=—a measure of length as for cloth, having different values in different places, and now rarely used; in England an ell is 45 inches, in Scotland 37 inches.

=Elysian=—a fine grade of overcoating cloth, having the nap laid in diagonal lines or ripples, something like, but rougher than Chinchilla, and with straighter hair.

=Embroidered=—ornamented with fancifully workt designs in stitches.

=Emerald=—a green precious stone anciently considered an enemy of impurity and that would break if it but toucht the skin of an adulterer.

=En regle=—in high ceremonious attire.

=Enameled collar=—a shirt c. made of a material composed of two sheets of white paper between which was a connecting layer of thin muslin showing thru the paper sides, after pressure, with a cloth-like effect; invented in 1857. Since made entirely of paper, the surfaces stampt to imitate cloth.

=Enameled leather=—a heavy kind of upper leather finisht with a shiny surface like patent leather, but in which a figure or pebble has been workt into the surface of the enamel.

=End=—technical term for a thread of warp or weft.

=Ends=—remnants.

=Engagement ring=—something you work hard to save up for so she can “show off” among her friends until she finds someone else to buy her a more gorgeous one, when you may, if lucky, get it back.

=Engineer’s cap=—a flat crowned, nearly straight c., made on a band, with a large visor.

=Engineer’s uniform=—(=army=) see Full dress, Dress u., White u., Service u., Fatigue u., et var.

=English foot=—trade term for hosiery made with a seam at either side of the sole. See French f.

=English mourning crepe=—see Crepe.

=English square=—imposing name for a readymade scarf with flaring ends (about 1900).

=English waist=—trade term for trousers made very high in the back.

=English walking coat=—a single-breasted cutaway frock c. with hip pockets, usually made of fabrics less sedate than the formal black goods used for the cutaway frock or morning c. (qv).

=English yarns=—worsted y. that have been well oiled before combing, resulting in a smooth level yarn in which the fibers lie nearly parallel to each other. Compare French y.

=Enlisted men’s uniform=—(=navy=) see Dress, Undress, Working dress; (=army=) Full dress, Dress u., White u., Service u., Fatigue u.; (=marine corps=) Full dress, Undress, Field u.; (=revenue cutter service=) Full dress, Service dress. See also variations.

=Ensanguined undergarment=—a variant of “bloody shirt”.

=Ensign’s uniform=—see Special full dress, Full dress, Dress, Service dress, Evening dress, Mess dress, Undress. Also variations.

=Enweave=—to intertwine or intermix by weaving; another form of inweave.

=Epaulet=—an ornamental badge of rank worn by certain officers of army, navy, etc., on the shoulders of the coat, usually a sort of plastron of gold bullion with gold fringe, and bearing insignia of rank. Now largely supplanted by shoulder knots, shoulder straps, etc. (=Epaulette.=)

=Epauls Americaines=—French poking fun (?) at our wadded shoulders. See American shoulders.

=Epigonation=—a lozenge-shaped ornament of stiffened silk bearing a cross or picture, worn hanging from the girdle by the Greek and Russian ministry.

=Epiminikia=—bands resembling the Latin maniple (qv) worn by bishops, priests and deacons in the Greek and Russian churches, those for bishops being richly ornamented.

=Episcopal ring=—a gold r., usually set with a large amethyst, symbolizing that the wearer (a bishop) is wedded to his diocese.

=Epitrachelion=—a long, narrow stole worn by priests of the Greek and Russian churches, resembling the Latin pallium (qv).

=Equi-pede=—a horseman’s coat, ample skirted and long enough to cover the mounted rider (saddle and all) from neck to boots, a coat and apron in one, quickly and easily contracted to the size of a sack covert coat for walking and dismounted work generally.

=Erect=—not stooping.

=Erkens’ worsted=—a fine, close twilled worsted dress or coating cloth resembling Venetian, the twills apparently crossing each other. (From name of German manufacturer.)

=Espardènas=—see Alpargatas.

=Estamene=—similar to serge, but having a rough, nappy face resembling cheviot.

=Etamine=—a light woolen cloth similar to batiste and nun’s cloth.

=Etiquette=—the formalities or usages of social or professional intercourse.

=Etoffe=—French for cloth.

=Eton collar=—a folded shirt c., usually of white linen of medium hight stand, but with a broad turnover of nearly uniform width all around, folded at an angle; worn by boys.

=Eton jacket=—a short j. without collar or lapels, reaching only to the waist line, first worn by the boys of Eton College.

=Etruscan gold=—luster removed by acid, leaving it satiny yellow.

=Eugenie’s wigs=—knitted montero caps (qv) presented by Empress Eugenie to the Arctic exploration of 1875, and so dubbed by the jackies.

=Even exchange=—retail trade term, meaning the exchange of purchases for something else without there being any difference in price.

=Evening dress=—the swallowtail and Tuxedo as opposed to frock coats for day dress and sack coats for business and lounge wear; vulgarly “full dress”.

=Evening dress A=—(=navy=) a uniform to be worn on occasions of ceremony in the evening, to which officers are invited in their official capacity, such as public balls, dinners and evening receptions. Consists of—for all commissioned officers except chaplains, chief boatswains, chief gunners, chief carpenters and chief sailmakers—evening dress coat, evening dress waistcoat (blue), full dress trousers, cockt hat, epaulets, sword and full dress belt, black tie, white gloves; for chaplains the same as “Evening Dress B”; for midshipmen, the same as prescribed for commissioned officers, substituting the blue cap for the cockt hat and shoulder knots for epaulets. On occasions where the full uniform would not be appropriate “Evening dress A” may be prescribed without swords and belts and with blue caps instead of cockt hats; or in hot weather, or in appropriate circumstances, mess dress with full dress trousers may be ordered.

=Evening dress B=—(=navy=) a uniform to be worn at social evening occasions where officers are invited in their official capacity, and at dinner on board vessels other than those of the fourth rate by officers for whom the evening dress coat has been prescribed (except when the uniform of the day has been white). Consists of—for all commissioned officers (except chief boatswains, chief gunners, chief carpenters and chief sailmakers) and for midshipmen: evening dress coat, evening dress waistcoat, blue (unless white is ordered), undress trousers (unless full dress trousers are ordered), blue cap, black tie. In hot weather or under other appropriate circumstances mess dress may be substituted.

=Evening dress coat=—a skirted c. with the foreparts cut off at the waistline, the skirts commencing at the hips and gradually narrowing downward, the front made with long-roll lapels, not to button, tho furnished with buttons and buttonholes on each side, the lapels usually faced with silk; invariably made of fine black cloth and properly lined with black silk.

=Evening dress coat=—(=navy=) a uniform c. similar to a civilian’s e. d. c., of dark blue cloth with 3 large navy buttons on each breast, well spaced, two at the waist behind and one at the bottom of each fold, with sleeve marks and epaulets as prescribed for frock c.; always worn open. For chaplains the same with black silk buttons.

=Evening dress shield=—see Shirt protector.

=Evening dress shirt=—trade term for fine quality white d. s. with extra large bosoms.

=Evening dress trousers=—plain t. of same goods as the coat, but slightly shaped, and sometimes with a stripe of fancy braid down the outside seams; in trousers for wear with the dinner jacket (Tuxedo) the braid is omitted.

=Evening dress trousers=—(=marine corps=) for major general commandant and all other officers, of dark blue cloth, cut after the prevailing style of civilian’s evening dress, but with long snug fitting waist, without pockets or buckle straps, suspender buttons inside the band, outseams trimmed with 1¼ inch stripe of gold lace. Also white t. for wear with white mess jacket, of same cut but without stripe on outseams.

=Evening dress uniform=—(=army=) a special full d. u. authorized for wear on occasions of ceremony to which officers are invited in their official capacity, such as balls, official dinners and receptions, etc.: an evening dress coat of dark blue cloth cut on the lines of the civilian dress coat, with regulation gilt buttons, of same number and placed as prescribed, the sleeves ornamented in same manner as full dress uniform coats; an evening waistcoat of dark blue or white with three small regulation buttons; also full dress trousers for all officers except those of engineers, cavalry, artillery and infantry, who wear dark blue trousers without stripes; patent leather shoes and full dress cap; shoulder ornaments, etc., per regulations. For occasions of special formality the u. for evening functions is the same as full dress dismounted u.; and this may be worn at above described occasions at discretion. On proper occasions, which are not official in character, officers are permitted to wear civilian evening dress.

=Evening dress waistcoat=—a w. cut low to expose the shirt bosom, the garment being most properly single-breasted, 3 or 4 buttons and 2 pockets, and the opening either V or U shape, with a shawl collar, which is sometimes trimmed with a row of fancy braid. May be of black cloth to match coat and trousers or of white wash fabrics or silk, which latter may be plain or have a small figured pattern.

=Evening dress waistcoat=—(=navy=) similar to a civilian’s e. d. w., of dark blue cloth with four small gilt navy buttons (or black silk buttons for chaplains). The “white evening dress” w. to be of same style but of duck or similar material (if for chaplains with white buttons). (=Marine corps=) for all officers; of same material as corresponding mess jacket, single-breasted with four small marine corps buttons, rolling collar.

=Evening jacket=—see Dinner j.

=Everlasting=—a cloth used for breeches during the latter part of the 18th century, mostly for servants’ wear.

=Examiner=—in the apparel trades one who closely scrutinizes finisht garments for detection and correction of errors, flaws, etc. His criticism, which is final, sometimes results in further changes.

=Exchange=—to receive back goods bought and give the purchaser something else in the place thereof.

=Expenses=—the one thing that makes the boss sit up nights.

=Exposure test=—generally, exposing a piece of cloth or other material, article or substance, to the weather, continuously for a number of days (usually on a roof or in some place where it is not likely to be meddled with) for determination of color, quality, etc.

=Express paid=—sent, not (?) at the receiver’s expense.

=Exquisite=—an ineffable clothes-wearing nuisance.

=Extension shoulders=—deceptivly broad.

=Extension tree=—a shoe t. having a spring, ratchet or other device for stretching the shoe longitudinally.

=Extra=—a substitute or temporary clerk.

=Extra stout=—trade term for readymade garments designed to fit extra corpulent or very fat persons.

=Extras=—anything or lots of things not contemplated in the price; the “nigger-in-the-woodpile” reason for many low prices.

=Extract wool=—wool produced from waste or clips which are of mixt wool-and-cotton, the wool being extracted by a process of carbonization.

=Extracted=—dyeing term indicating that patterns or designs in colors differing from the general ground color, or in white, have been achieved by (1) acid treatment, (2) bleaching, (3) tying and dyeing, (4) mordanting, etc. See Batik, Bandanna, etc.

=Eye shield=—a silk or papier mache s. worn to protect weak eyes against light; also to hide the effects of “somebody bumping into it the night before.”

=Eyeglasses=—lenses suitably mounted for attachment to the bridge of the nose, differing from spectacles in needing no bows across the temples or behind the ears; pince nez.

=Eyeglass chain=—a safety device of gold or other metal.

=Eyeglass cord=—a light silk c. for attaching eye-glasses to the clothes or person to prevent loss.

=Eyeglass holder=—a case for holding eye-glasses when not in use; of various styles, as hinged, open-end, etc., usually of leather or leather-covered metal.

=Eyelet=—a small hole, workt around with buttonhole stitching.

=Eyeshade=—a sort of visor for protecting the eyes from the glare of strong light.

F

=Face=—the right side or outer surface of a fabric or material.

=Face=—the table or (exposed) upper part of a brilliant cut diamond or other precious stone.

=Face cloth=—a c. laid on the face of a dead person.

=Face cloth=—a wash c.

=Face finish=—meaning, in the textil trades, the manner in which the face or outerside of a fabric is finisht; as clear f., doeskin f., unfinisht, etc., which see.

=Face guard=—a mask or covering worn by workers in chemical laboratories; or by fencers, or baseball players, etc.

=Faced=—having an over or underlying strip of same or different material for purposes of appearance or re-enforcement. See Facing.

=Faced cloth=—fabrics having a finisht face, as worsteds, in opposition to fabrics such as tweeds, cheviots, etc.

=Facet=—one of the small triangular plane surfaces of a diamond or other gem.

=Facing=—tailoring term for an underlying or overlying strip or re-enforcement of material, the same as or different from that of the garment, as (1) the strip along the inside of coat openings which also form the face of the lapels or revers; (2) the strips of goods inside the openings of pockets so that the eyes shall not be offended with lining showing thru; (3) the covering of silk laid on lapels or revers, to the edge or to the buttonholes; (4) the contra-colored cloth, showing on the turned back skirts or revers of old-time military coats; (5) the strip of cloth extending all around the inside edges of a waistcoat from neck to bottom side seam, which is sometimes of undercollar cloth for the sake of a thinner edge; and so forth.

=Faconne=—figured; usually employed in connection with fancy silks.

=Factory cotton=—unbleacht domestic cotton goods in contrast to those which are imported.

=Factory yarn=—coarse, unscoured woolen y., used for knitting hose, mittens, etc.

=Fad=—the current vogue; transient popularity.

=Fad=—a hobby.

=Faga=—a narrow strip or sash of silk wound several times around the waist. (Spain).

=Faille Francaise=—a soft, lustrous silk fabric of wider cord than gros-grain, but narrower than ottoman.

=Fair=—see Cotton classification.

=Fair shake=—a fair bargain.

=Fal lal=—any gaudy or trifling ornament or trinket; foppish frippery.

=Falding=—a kind of frieze, mentioned by Chaucer, approximating the coarse red woolen stuff still worn by Irish peasant women for petticoats and jackets.

=Fall bearer=—that part of broadfall trousers forming the front waist band, and to which the fall or flap is buttoned; the b. also contains the pockets. See Broadfalls. Compare Narrow falls.

=Fall down=—one of the old names for broadfalls (qv).

=Fall weight=—in the cloth trade suitings of 12 to 16 ounces and overcoatings of 16 to 24 ounces are so known. Compare Winter w., Spring w., Summer w., Tropical w.

=Falling band=—(1) a sort of wide turned down collar, usually of linen, plain or ornamented, sometimes with floating ends or tabs; worn over the neck of the doublet or jerkin of old days; (2) an ecclesiastical neckdressing.

=Falling collar=—see Prussian c.

=False face=—what we begged pennies for when young.

=False hair=—someone else’s tho it covers your own bald spots.

=False teeth=—of great utilitarian value but, alack! also signs of immoderate vanity.

=Family umbrella=—facetious term for old-fashioned extra large u.

=Fan=—once fops carried them; nowadays women.

=Fan=—the side of a cockt hat.

=Fancies=—any merchandise not classed as staples or regulars; novelties.

=Fancy back=—general term for fabrics having a pattern on the back or underside differing from that on the face, as certain fancy overcoatings, raincoatings, etc.

=Fancy dress ball=—an occasion where one can spend a good deal of money on a costume that may never be worn again—unless he rents some trumpery from a costumer, which nice folk are squeamish about doing.

=Fang=—a broken or protuberant tooth.

=Farmer’s satin=—properly a satin wove fabric having a cotton warp and worsted filling, finisht with a high luster, used for coat linings, etc.; also called Italian cloth.

=Fashion=—the prevailing mode.

=Fashion artist=—a perverse individual who has trances twice a year or oftener for the benefit of clothing manufacturers and fashion journals.

=Fashion doll=—a device once extensivly used to display fashions in miniature.

=Fashion monger=—one who affects scrupulous attention to fashion; a dandy.

=Fashion-plate=—an engraving or other pictorial representation of the prevailing fashions of any period.

=Fashion writer=—a has-been or going-to-be literary hack who need never be taken seriously.

=Fashionable=—conforming to the prevailing mode; approved.

=Fashionable back width=—tailoring term indicating a change in measurement of the back to correspond fashionably with width of shoulder.

=Fashionable tailor=—one who gets the highest prices and who consequently caters only to the wealthy classes; one to whom every manufacturer of readymade clothing goes for his own clothes and for ideas for his business.

=Fashionable waist=—tailoring term. See Waist.

=Fast color=—applied to colors supposed not to fade in washing or thru exposure.

=Fast dye=—fast color; unfading.

=Fat man’s frock=—a cutaway frock coat, only the top button of which is intended for use; also called “one button cutaway”.

=Fat man’s sack=—a sack coat made to be buttoned only at the top button, and cut away slightly from that point downward.

=Fatigue blouse=—(=masonic=) a 5 button, single-breasted, straight front sack coat, without pockets and with Prussian collar. Compare Commander’s coat and Sir Knight’s coat.

=Fatigue coat=—(=army=) for enlisted men: a single-breasted sack c. of brown cotton duck, of prescribed pattern.

=Fatigue trousers=—(=army=) for enlisted men: of brown cotton duck, without stripes.

=Fatigue uniform=—(=army=) for enlisted men dismounted: worn on fatigue or stable duty: f. coat, and trousers, service hat, russet leather shoes.

=Favors=—more or less costly trivialities distributed at cotillons.

=Fay, to=—to fit. “Your coat fays well”. This obsolete form, a curtailment of “fadge”, and in use during the Augustan age of English literature, is occasionally encountered in New England.

=F. B. Q.=—proprietary name for a well-known make of ready-to-wear clothing, meaning “finest beyond question”.

=Fearnought=—a heavy fulled woolen fabric used for sailors’ overcoats and clothing; sometimes called Dreadnought.

Fearnought—(weaving term). See Mixing picker.

=Feather=—a channel about ⅛ inch deep, extending around the edges of a shoe sole, along and into which holes for the stitches are pierced obliquely.

=Feather top=—see Wig.

=Feathers=—when commingled with tar a punitiv form of clothing worn next the body; occasionally met with in communities of zealously guarded morality.

=Featherweight=—very light or summery.

=Fedora=—a soft felt hat, the crown having a crease in the center from front to back. See Hombourg, Alpine, Tyrolean, etc.

=Feel=—see Handle.

=Fell=—felling is the act of sewing one piece of material onto another; to turn in a seam.

=Fell=—archaic for hides or pelts; also used in the sense of hairy.

=Felled edge=—a variety of plain or blind e. (qv), hand-finisht, with a felling stitch (qv), obtaining a perfectly plain surface.

=Felled pocket=—a jetted p.

=Fellers=—see Finishers.

=Felling, French=—see French f.

=Felling silk=—see Sewing s.

=Felling stitch=—an over-and-over continuous s. used to fasten linings onto the outer body, to hold bindings to the edge, join under-collars to body, etc., the closeness of the stitches being regulated according to the purpose for which they are used.

=Fellmonger=—a trader in skins, furs, etc.

=Fellware=—skins, furs, etc.

=Felt=—properly a fabric made by interlocking or compacting wool, fur or hair, or a mixture thereof, by rolling or pressure, without weaving, often with the aid of glue and heat; used extensivly in garment trimming, etc; also a woven fabric whose fibers are matted by shrinking or otherwise.

=Felt shoes=—s. made out of felt, wholly or in part.

=Fencing glove=—a padded g., with a deep cuff or gauntlet.

=Fencing mask=—a wire m. for the face, so constructed as to be quickly removable.

=Fencing plastron=—a padded and quilted leather or canvas chest and side protector with a heart sewed on to jab at.

=Ferrandine=—an old-time cloth, similar to poplin, of silk or silk and wool or silk and mohair, once used for waistcoats.

=Ferrule=—the metal end-tip of an umbrella rod or cane.

=Fez=—a brimless felt cap in the shape of a truncated cone, usually red with a black tassel, worn especially by Turks and Shriners.

=Fibrilia=—a textil material made from the fibers of flax, jute, china grass, hemp, etc., and used as a substitute for more valuable fibers; used to a limited extent in the manufacture of hosiery, blankets, etc., in the proportion of 1 part to 3 of wool, cotton, etc.

=Fiddle=—tailoring term for supererogatory attentions toward a customer.

=Fiddleback=—irreverent name for the modern chasuble.

=Field belt=—(=army=) a b. of russet leather worn by enlisted men.

=Field breeches=—(=marine corps=) of khaki serge or drill, to match f. coat, without stripe, welt or cord, loose above knees and about seat, fitting closely below knees and extending to tops of shoes, fastening with buttons and lacing or all lacing; seat re-enforced, suspender buttons inside of band, 4 belt loops. For major general command and all officers. White b. of same style may be worn by mounted officers in the tropics when not on duty.

=Field coat=—(=marine corps=) for major general commandant and all other officers, of khaki serge or drill, of the same design as the white undress c. (qv) except without vent for sword, and with bronze buttons; rank devices as for white c.; for non-commissioned officers, drummers, trumpeters and privates, a single-breasted c. of 8 oz. khaki-colored cotton material, cut half close, with standing collar, in length reaching to the crotch and closed with 5 marine corps buttons, one outside bellows-plait patch pocket, with flap in each breast, other trimmings, details, etc., as prescribed.

=Field dress=—(=marine corps=) worn by all officers and men (1) in garrison when prescribed by the commanding officer, or in the tropics; (2) for duty under arms in garrison under foregoing conditions; (3) at drills, target practice, maneuvers, and on marches when prescribed; (4) in the field when prescribed; (5) when serving with marine battalions afloat in the warm season or in the tropics, when prescribed. Consists of, for all officers: f. coat, f. trousers or breeches, russet leather puttees or leggings, f. hat and cord or white helmet, sword with undress belt (leather slings) and knot, russet shoes; if mounted, spurs and drab leather gloves; in the field, the flannel shirt prescribed for enlisted men may be worn, in place of the f. coat, with rank devices on the collar and with khaki scarf. For enlisted men: (in this case called f. uniform): f. coat, f. trousers, leggings, f. hat, russet shoes, arms and accouterments as ordered; in the field, the khaki shirt may be worn, in place of the khaki coat, with a web belt.

=Field hat=—(=marine corps=)for non-commissioned officers, drummers, trumpeters and privates, of felt, as sample in Quartermaster’s office; worn creased from front to rear; ornaments, etc., of bronze, in front; for all officers, of felt, the same as for enlisted men, creased from front to rear, with a double cord of scarlet-and-gold with acorns at ends; bronze corps device in front.