Chapter L

=Label=—a badge, stamp or any distinguishing mark, affixt to articles of merchandise.

=Lace=—once used for men’s neckwear. See encyclopedia if you wish to know more.

=Lace stay=—a piece of tape or similar material placed between the thicknesses of the leather in the uppers of shoes to strengthen the uppers where the lacing eyelets or hooks are inserted.

=Lace-up boots=—Briticism for laced shoes.

=Lace work=—trade term for open work designs in hosiery.

=Lacrosse gloves=—same as Hockey g.

=Ladies-cloth=—a fine, wide flannel, slightly napt, similar to broadcloth.

=Lagniappe=—something thrown in over and above; good measure. Current in New Orleans—but fast disappearing from use. See Brotus.

=Laguna=—trade name for a variety of wood from the Philippine islands, used for walking sticks.

=Laid-on flap=—in tailoring a f. not sewed into the pocket opening but laid on above it, usually wider than the opening, as the side pockets of frock coats. See In-and-out f.

=Laid-on velvet collar=—in tailoring a c. partly of velvet and partly of the material of the garment, the former laid upon the cloth but not covering it, usually to within half an inch or so of the edge, the exposed cloth forming a sort of border or frame. Compare Inlaid c.

=Laid wool=—w. clipped from sheep that have been greased or tarred as a protection from the weather.

=L’Aiglon coat=—a sort of cutaway frock c. made familiar by Sarah Bernhardt when she appeared in Rostand’s play of that name as Duc de Reichstadt.

=Lamb’s wool=—the first clip from young sheep. Compare Wether w.

=Lamps=—spectacles or eye-glasses.

=Lance=—textil term for woven effects like minute darts, points, specks, etc.

=Lap-and-foot robe=—an adjustable rubber or cloth lap r. for automobile wear, serving as over-trousers, robe and foot-muff.

=Lap-board=—an oblong board, round at the ends, laid on the lap of the workman, upon which the seams and other parts of a garment are presst in the process of making.

=Lap front=—a straight standing shirt collar without front opening, but lapping one end over the other when buttoned.

=Lap robe=—a rug for driving or traveling.

=Lap seam=—a s. made by overlapping or laying on, instead of turning in; one edge laid or lapt over the other and sewn twice. See Double-stitcht s.

=Lap seam=—(glove term) see Pique s.

=Lapel=—(1) the length of a dress coat in front, or from the gorge seam down to the waist seam; (2) the narrow strip—square at the lower end and angular at the upper end—which is sewed to the front of double-breasted frock coats; (3) the roll or “lay-over” of the front of a sack coat or any coat; the most observable part of a coat collar.

=Lapel button=—coat jewelry, usually bearing lodge emblem.

=Lapel fob=—a watch f. or short chain of metal, leather, etc., worn attacht to the l. buttonhole, the watch being carried in the outside breast pocket of coat; also called Watch Albert.

=Lapel forepart=—the sewed-on lapel of a double-breasted frock coat. See L. seam and Frock coat.

=Lapel seam=—the s. caused by sewing the back edge of the lapel strip to the front edge of the forepart.

=Lapidary=—one who cuts, grinds, polishes and mounts precious stones and other gems.

=Lappet=—a small lap or flap.

=Lappet weaving=—a method of producing small figures or designs on cloth, having the appearance of being darned or embroidered; special warp threads being introduced and made to cross small sections of the regular warp, manipulated by a lappet or needle attachment.

=Lares and Penates=—one’s household gods; loosely one’s belongings of all sorts.

=Last=—a wooden form on which shoes are made.

=Lasting=—a strong, closely woven, double-twill, worsted fabric, mostly used for buttons and shoe tops.

=Lasting=—the process of giving shape to a shoe.

=Lasting button=—a b. made on a mold covered with lasting cloth; worn on evening dress almost exclusively.

=Latch key=—a door k. that sometimes does not fit.

=Latchet=—a shoe lace or fastener of a sandal.

=Latin cassock=—differing from the Anglican c. in that it buttons all the way down the front with the cincture knotted forward of the left hip.

=Launder=—to wash and iron, as articles of clothing.

=Laundry=—the place of destruction.

=Laundry bag=—better than a newspaper for your soiled linen.

=Laundryman=—keeper of the place of torment.

=Laundry marks=—causes of profanity.

=Lavant=—see Wig.

=Lavender=—a nice, clean scent for linen.

=Laventine=—a thin silk used for sleeve linings.

=Lawyer’s=—see Wig.

=Lay=—in garment making the disposition of the paper patterns upon the cloth prior to cutting, so arranged as to effect economy of material, achieve exact matching of patterns, etc.

=Lay down collar=—a low, folded linen shirt c.

=Lay-out=—see Lay.

=Lay-over=—see Lapel.

=Lay-up=—in shirt collar making the successiv layers of linen or cotton cloth laid out on tables and from which by means of patterns and a sharp knife a number of collars or parts are cut at one time.

=Layette=—a fussy outfit of clothes, etc., provided in anticipation of units affecting the birthrate.

=Leaf=—in tailoring, a word used to describe the folded part of a collar (exclusiv of the lapels). The ordinary coat collar consists of an outer l., or that part folded over, and an inner l., or that part on the inside of the fold, also called the “stand”. Used alone the word leaf means outer l.

=Leaf=—a division of warp threads in weaving for the insertion of the weft; a loom harness.

=Leather=—cant term for pocketbook—to “pull off leather”, is, therefore, to steal pocketbooks or purses.

=Leathers=—colloquial for coachmen’s kidskin livery breeches.

=Left dress=—the right way. See Dress.

=Left-overs=—goods carried over from one season or “sale” to another.

=Left twill=—weaving term indicating that the direction of the rib (as of serge, cheviot, etc.) leads from the bottom of the cloth (held lengthwise) upwardly to the left. See Right t.

=Leg irons=—climbing irons; also shackles.

=Leggin=—a covering for the leg like a long gaiter; a protector in cold or wet weather or outdoor sports. (=Legging.=) See Puttee.

=Leghorn=—a light-weight hat straw, usually in herringbone weave.

=Leipzig dye=—an unusually rich color (and finish) given to sealskins and other furs dyed in Leipzig, which it seems impossible to obtain elsewhere. Compare London d.

=Let out=—to make larger or longer.

=Letter-carrier’s uniform=—see Postman’s u.

=Leur=—a hatter’s brushing pad.

=Levantine=—a stout twilled silk, each side finisht equally but of different colors.

=Levelling=—a mechanical process in shoemaking, following the operation of Goodyear stitching, whereby the turn-up of the channel is prest down or leveled by means of two rolls moving automatically back and forth with a pressure of about 5000 pounds.

=Levy=—eleven pence, the value of the Spanish real, which circulated in this country some years ago. (Pronounced levvy.)

=Lid=—a hat—slang, of course.

=Lid=—a pocket flap.

=Lieutenant’s uniform=—(=navy=) see Special full dress, Full dress, Dress, Service dress, Evening dress, Mess dress, Undress; (=marine corps=) Special full dress, Full dress, Mess dress, Undress, Field dress; (=revenue cutter service=) Full dress, Dress, Service dress, Social full dress; (=army=) Full dress, Dress u., White u., Service u. See also variations.

=Lieutenant general’s uniform=—see Full dress, Dress u., White u., Service u. Also see variants.

=Life belt=—a belt of inflated rubber, or one containing cork, for use as a life preserver.

=Life preserver=—a cork-filled belt, ring or jacket worn, if obtainable, after accidents at sea.

=Lifters=—cant for crutches.

=Ligne=—a unit of measurement: ¹⁄₁₁ of an inch (ribbon measure), ¹⁄₄₀ of an inch (button measure), etc.; the rib of a braid; as 6 ribs is 6 ligne, etc.

=Lily irons=—confederate handcuffs.

=Limericks=—a name once given to gloves of such delicate thinness, that altho they would fit a large hand, they would fold up into the compass of a walnut shell. From the town of that name, once famous for its glove industry. For the nature of the leather see Morts and Slinks.

=Limestone wool=—powdered limestone mixt with chemicals, subjected to heat and strong air-blast, coming out as fluffy white wool, which is woven into a flexible fabric used for clothing.

=Liming=—a process in leather preparation following that of sweating (qv), whereby roots of hairs are loosened.

=Line=—the fine, long fiber of flax, separated from the tow by heckling.

=Line=—see Ligne.

=Lined gold=—see Rolled g.

=Linen=—general name for fabrics woven from yarns spun from the fiber of flax; nothing like reading an encyclopedic article.

=Linen mesh=—a net or cellular sort of weave, of linen, used for undergarments.

=Linen prover=—see Counting glass.

=Linen test=—see Breaking t., Burning t., Oil t., Sulfuric acid t., Thru-lighting t., Untwisting t.

=Lining=—general term for materials used for covering the inner side of a garment or anything. In men’s clothing usually silk, Italian cloth, farmer’s satin, serge, alpaca, silesia, etc.

=Links=—(1) shirt cuffs not closed or overlapping at the ends when buttoned; (2) double-headed buttons worn with link cuffs, of the dumb-bell or loose-link variety; (3) two coat buttons joined by workt strands of silk thread, worn sometimes in dress and frock coats, also in open vented sleeves.

=Linocord=—proprietary name given to a style of buttonhole for collars and cuffs having a line of heavy thread or cord (whence name) past and worked around the aperture.

=Linsey-woolsey=—a stout, medium-weight cloth made with linen warp and wool filling; a homespun and homewoven fabric of colonial days, now practically obsolete.

=Lirripipe=—a sort of tippet, tempus Richard II.

=Lisle thread=—a fine, hard twisted, compact t. of long staple cotton prepared by combing instead of by carding, employed in the manufacture of fine hosiery, underwear, gloves, etc.

=List=—the selvage of woven textil fabrics.

=List slippers=—cloth s.

=Litter=—a temporary bed upon which a wounded or sick person is carried.

=Little Lord Fauntleroy=—an impossible kid that started a clothes cult.

=Live net=—a netted-mesh bag for bringing home fish, made much like a woman’s shopping bag.

=Liver pad=—slang for chest protector (qv).

=Livery=—the dress or uniform of servants.

=Livery=—see Wool.

=Livery cloth=—see Boxcloth.

=Livery tailor=—one who makes a specialty of and whose business consists largely if not entirely of the making of dress and undress livery and uniforms.

=Livery undress=—groom’s frock or sack stable suit, made of tan, brown or black mixt whipcord. The frock coat may be worn with either trousers or breeches and leggings.

=Living-in=—term describing the manner of employment of English shop assistants who are generally boarded with or at the expense of their employers in quarters above the stores or in specially maintained dormitories or barracks; a survival of the old system of apprenticeship, but which, under pressure of public opinion and modern business ideas, is dying away to the greater independence and welfare of the clerks.

=Lizzie=—a mental dude.

=Llama=—a soft, glossy, woolen suiting woven with a fine twill; a finer and more expensiv cloth than vicuna (which it resembles), properly made from the fleece of the Llama goat, tho largely mixt with cheaper wool.

=Loaded=—dyer’s term for fabrics surcharged with gums and other dressings for extra or fraudulent weight.

=Loading=—see Weighting.

=Lock front=—trade term for shirt collars of the folded variety having one blade or end so shaped and extended as to go within the opposit fold and hold the collar firmly in position or “lock” it. See also Meeting folder and Spaced front.

=Lock-out=—the shutting up of a mill, factory or store because the owners will not agree to demands of employes or because latter would not agree to work on terms offered by the employers.

=Lock stitch=—see Chain s.

=Lockram=—a cheap, coarse linen fabric, originally made in Locrenan, Brittany.

=Locust=—familiar for policeman’s club; a night stick.

=Loden=—a waterproof cloth made by the peasants in the Tyrol from wool of mountain sheep; resembles Irish frieze, and is mostly used for knockabout shirts for mountain climbing, hunting, prospecting, etc.

=Logwood=—the blue-black dye obtained from the tree of that name.

=Loin cloth=—complete attire in hot, uncivilized countries—among the natives.

=London=—the mere name was once virtually deified and counted the arbiter elegantiarum in men’s wear.

=London dye=—trade term for the rich brown d. of sealskins, especially employed when the skins are actually dyed in London. Compare Leipzig d.

=London fashions=—a term of conjuration used by tailors and readymaders alike but having no significance apart from the casuistry of the words.

=London letter=—a fashion l. written in New York or anywhere but London.

=London shrunk=—see Cold water s.

=London toe=—in shoemaking, a medium broad t.

=Long dresses=—the clothes of early infancy.

=Long measures=—general term for those systems of tailors’ measurements characterized by the taking of as few and as comprehensiv measurements as necessary to lay out a pattern, which measurements are subdivided in drafting, as required to give other dimensions not taken on the victim on the block. Compare Short m. and Superlativ m.

=Long moire=—m. antique (qv).

=Long neckt=—see Low-n.

=Long pants=—the first important event in a boy’s life.

=Long roll=—tailor’s term for lapels or revers buttoning low and usually soft-prest.

=Long-slim=—trade term for readymade garments designed to fit tall, slender persons. Compare Slim, Long-stout and Longs.

=Long staple=—having a long fiber. See Cotton and Wool. Compare Short s.

=Long-stout=—trade term for readymade garments designed to fit corpulent persons of more than average hight.

=Long tail=—see Wig.

=Long togs=—nautical term for civilian clothes.

=Long vamp=—Synonymous with whole v., as compared with a short or cut-off v., a whole v., not having that part of the v. covering the toes, about the size of a tip on the ordinary shoe, cut off. By cutting off a little of the v. at this point a saving is made in the leather, and, therefore, in the cost of a shoe; but with some leathers, however, it makes a better shoe.

=Long wool=—fleece 4 to 10 inches long. See Wool.

=Longs=—trade term for readymade garments designed to fit tall men. Compare Slim, Long-slim and Long-stout.

=Longs=—early familiar term for pantaloons or trousers. Compare Shorts.

=Lonsdale=—a brand of shirting muslin and cambric.

=Looking glass=—a reflector of vanities. See Mirror.

=Loom=—a machine in which yarn or thread is woven into a fabric, by the crossing of threads called chain or warp, running lengthwise, with others called weft, woof or filling, running crosswise.

=Loom card=—a perforated pattern card, such as is used on the Jacquard loom.

=Loom figured=—textil term for patterns or effects produced by arrangement of warp and weft threads in contradistinction to those made by printing; “self-figured”.

=Loom harness=—that portion of a loom which so operates or acts upon the warp threads as to make the opening thru which the shuttle flies.

=Loomask=—a kind of half mask. See Loup.

=Looney=—an oblong, flattened pad, used in pressing and giving form to the collar, lapels and shoulders of a coat.

=Loop stitch=—see Chain s.

=Loopt yarn=—see Curled y.

=Looscarf=—proprietary name for a linen shirt collar, of the double or high-banded order, so made that a scarf or tie slips around in it easily, without the tension characterising the ordinary style of collar.

=Loose-fitting=—by no means tight nor close; free; boxy.

=Loose links=—linkt cuff buttons not rigidly connected, but held together by means of a fine chain, a large link, or a separable slip catch.

=Loose skins=—a sort of union outer-suit. See Jepson.

=Lord Chumley=—the cape overcoat popular in this country about 1890, from the play of that name; still popular abroad as a traveling coat.

=Loretto=—a fine silk material largely used for waistcoats about 1767.

=Lot number=—a stock n. given to goods for identification purposes.

=Louchettes=—goggles permitting vision only directly in front, used for strabismus.

=Loud=—gaily drest; flashy.

=Louisine=—a fine twilled silk fabric, similar to surah, but softer and firmer.

=Lounge jacket=—English name for our single-breasted sack coat.

=Lounge suit=—a sack s.

=Lounging robe=—a long, loose, house gown.

=Loup=—a light mask or half mask, usually of silk, worn at masquerades, etc.

=Louse-trap=—vulgar for a fine-tooth comb.

=Love knot=—see True lovers’ k.

=Love lock=—a long lock of hair curled and tied with ribbons, worn hanging in front of the shoulder: an early 17th century fashion for men. See also Ear lock.

=Lovelace=—a dandified libertine with graceful, agreeable manners.

=Low common=—wool classification term. See Wool.

=Low-cuts=—see Low quarters and Oxfords.

=Low middling=—see Cotton classification.

=Low-neckt=—a garment is said to be “low-neckt” or “long-neckt” when the gorge in front is cut low. (=L.-necked.=)

=Low quarters=—trade term for low-cut shoes, as Oxfords, pumps, etc.

=Low-shouldered=—the extreme opposit of “high-shouldered”.

=Luggage=—British for baggage (qv).

=Lumbermen’s socks=—a knitted s. of extra heavy wool, close and compact, usually knee length, for wear in boots or with arctics.

=Lunatic fringe=—see Idiot f.

=Lunch bag=—same as Ammunition b.

=Luncheon basket=—a lined, dust-proof wicker b. or hamper fitted with dishes, cooking utensils, etc., for coaching parties, etc.

=Luster=—a low grade or imitation alpaca cloth, often with wool weft in place of alpaca.

=Lustering=—a mechanical process of giving to cloth, usually by steam and pressure, a smooth and glossy surface sufficiently durable to withstand wear.

=Lustrene=—a thin, twilled cotton fabric, mercerized or finisht in imitation of silk, and employed as a lining material.

=Lustring=—a soft, plain-woven silk fabric, widely worn from late 17th to middle of 19th century. See Lutestring.

=Lustro-fiber=—same as art silk—wood pulp.

=Lutestring=—(1) the old-fashioned, glossy silk stuff our ancestors had their gay clothes made of; (2) also a narrow silk ribbon, without selvage, used for eye-glass cords by the spectacular.

=Lynx=—a feline mammal whose fur is largely used in making winter garments.