Chapter D (2)

=Field stock=—same as stock or neck s.

=Field trousers=—(=marine corps=)for major general commandant and all other officers, of same material as f. coat, without stripe, welt or cord; may be worn without leggings in camp or garrison; for non-commissioned officers, drummers, trumpeters and privates of same material as coat and same pattern as white linen undress t.

=Field uniform=—see F. dress.

=Fielder’s glove=—a heavily padded, stout leather g., with a web (connected) thumb, worn by baseball players.

=Fielder’s mitt=—about same as basemen’s m. (qv).

=Fifth avenue=—a street in New York city supposed to house the elite and elect of tailordom in America; also specially mentioned for its Sunday dress parades of the “smart set”, and particularly that of Easterday. A name also prominently figuring on the window price tickets of misfit shops.

=Fig leaf=—a primitiv and scanty form of makeshift garment invented by Adam and Eve, the first garment makers of history, sufficiently described by its name; now obsolete to the relief of the W. C. T. U., Y. M. C. A., et al.

=Fighting gloves=—see Boxing g.

=Fil au Chinois=—name given to a well-known ball linen thread made in France, waxt ready for use and of extra strength, for tailors, shoemakers, dressmakers, leather-workers, etc.

=Fil au Tonkinois=—a stout sewing thread similar to fil au Chinois.

=Fil guipe=—a rolled or covered thread or cord of silk and tinsel, usually with cotton center, used in manufacture of trimming laces, etc.

=Filature=—the delicate untwisted silk threads as reeled from the cocoons, also called raw silk.

=File silk=—a fonetic corruption. See Faille Francaise.

=Filibeg=—the Highland kilt.

=Filled cloth=—general term for any woolen cloth that has been felted or loaded with flocks (qv) for weight, body or strength—or cheapness.

=Filler cork=—ground c. mixt with rubber cement or some sticky substance and used for filling in the hollow in the bottom of a shoe before the outer sole is placed on or attacht to a shoe.

=Filler felt=—a piece of f. used instead of cork filler, for the same purpose and in the same way.

=Filling=—the woof or weft threads of a woven fabric.

=Financial circles=—slang for dollars.

=Findings=—the required amounts of canvas, wigan, holland, tape, lining, felt, haircloth, buttons, etc., necessary to a garment.

=Fine=—see Wool.

=Fine=—term used in connection with gold or bullion trimming braids, indicating highest quality (in the sense, perhaps, that f. gold means pure). An inferior quality is known as mi-fine.

=Fine as silk=—a simile of comparison, implying excellence.

=Fine cut=—a delectable preparation of nicotiana tabacum.

=Fine delaine=—wool classification term. See Wool.

=Fine-draw=—to sew and close up a rent, seam, etc., with fine thread and delicate workmanship so that the joint is scarcely perceptible. See next.

=Fine-drawing stitch=—a practically invisible s. employed when the material is too thin or too ravelly for stoating or rentering, and for mending tears. The edges are placed together, as in stoating, except that they are not trimmed, the fray helping to cover the join. A fine needle and fine silk must be used. The needle passes in and out, catching the material lightly and without coming to the surface on the right side, making very short stitches and purposely coming uneven distances on either side of the join, distributing the strain, which would be plainly visible were the distances even.

=Fine-tooth comb=—a search warrant. (Definition vulgar.)

=Finery=—gay apparel; gewgaws; good things to avoid.

=Finger cot=—a covering of leather, rubber, etc., for protection to injured fingers.

=Finger guard=—(1) a protectiv shield of leather, rubber, etc., worn by marksmen, sailmakers, corn huskers, etc.; (2) a f. cot or stall, or protectiv covering, worn in case of accidents, by workers in chemicals, etc.

=Finger ring=—something affording a fine chance for the display of one’s bad taste; nowadays just a gaud; formerly of much significance.

=Finishers=—in clothing manufacture, expert needleworkers who fell-on or “finish” the basted-on collars, sleeves, linings, etc.

=Finishing=—general term for any and all the processes of preparing fabrics for market, as fulling, steaming, shearing, singeing, calendering, glazing, inspecting, etc.

=Finishing=—a process in hat manufacture where, after blocking and subsequent hydraulic pressure, stiff hats are placed upon wooden blocks and by manipulation with pouncing paper, etc., are smoothed and polished, and the brims trimmed to model dimensions.

=Fir wool=—see Pine w.

=Fire=—the interposition of Providence to (some) shopkeepers.

=Fire Department uniforms=—(=Chicago=) =Dress coat=: a double-breasted close-fitting sack c. of dark blue cloth, made to button close to the neck with combination lapel-rolling collar; of a length reaching to the tips of the fingers, with 2 inside breast pockets, no outside pockets but with a double-scalloped flap, as for a pocket, on each breast outside; 2 buttons on each sleeve and with buttons on breast as follows: marshal, 9 each breast, grouped in 3’s; assistant marshal and chiefs of battalion, 8 each breast, in pairs; company officers, 4 each breast, equidistant; firemen, same as for company officers, but no sleeve buttons. =Fatigue coat=: a single-breasted square cut sack c. of dark blue flannel, of same general specifications; vest and trousers to match. =Overcoat=: a double-breasted frock coat of dark blue cloth, with combination lapel-rolling collar, buttoning close to the neck, with same number and arrangement of buttons as described under Dress c. except that there are 5 on each breast, equidistant, for company officers and men; the coat in length 2 inches below knee; all seams lapt, raw; the skirt to be cut on the fold of the goods without opening, with 2 buttons at waist seam and 2 on each side of skirt plaits; 1 outside breast and 2 outside skirt pockets with scallopt flaps; 1 inside breast pocket. Insignia per regulations.

=Fire department uniforms=—(=New York=) =Dress coat=: a double-breasted close-fitting sack c. of dark blue cloth, cut to button to the neck, with rolling collar, and to reach midway between hip and knee, without outside pockets but with 2 inside breast pockets, lining of red cloth or flannel, 3 buttons on each sleeve and on the breast as follows: for chief of department, 2 rows of 8, grouped in pairs; for deputy chief of department and chiefs of battalion, same except spaced equidistant; for company officers, 2 rows of 7, equidistant; for engineers of steamers and men, a single-breasted squarecut c. with 6 buttons; in summer an unlined c. of dark blue flannel; vest and trousers to match. =Overcoat=: a double-breasted frock coat of dark blue cloth, reaching to the knee, made to button close to the neck, with 2 rows of 8 buttons grouped in pairs for chief of department and for all other officers and members 2 rows of 5 equidistant; the body and skirt to be lined with red cloth or flannel; the skirt, which is open behind, trimmed with 2 rows of 3 buttons; 3 buttons on each sleeve; no outside pockets, but 1 inside breast pocket. For officers attacht to fireboats, a double-breasted sack overcoat, buttoning to neck with 5 buttons on each breast, spaced equally; ulster collar; 2 circular outside breast pockets; length ⅔ of knee; lined with red cloth. Insignia on coats as per regulation.

=Fire marshal’s dress coat=—see Fire department uniforms.

=Fire sale=—faky.

=Fire test=—see Flame t.

=Firemen’s cap=—(=New York=) a dark blue cloth cap of navy pattern, with visor of black patent leather, with insignia of rank as prescribed by regulations.

=Firemen’s dress coat=—see Fire department uniforms.

=Firemen’s fatigue coat=—see Fire department uniforms.

=Firemen’s hats=—(=New York=) for summer wear, a hat of Mackinaw straw, white for all officers (except those attacht to fireboats), and brown for all other members; sides 3¾ inches high, slightly tapering to crown; black silk band.

=Firemen’s helmets=—(=New York=) for chief of department, deputy chiefs and chiefs of battalion, a white helmet with 8 cones having a gilt front depending from a gilt eaglehead and attacht thereto in front with insignia of rank painted thereon in black and red, with title in black letters on scroll of gold; for officers of engine and hook and ladder companies, same, but of black with a white front, with insignia variously differentiated; for engineers of steamers, an all-black helmet with title and number black on white; for firemen of hook and ladder companies, black with red front, with number, etc., in white.

=Firemen’s overcoat=—see Fire department uniforms.

=First pressing=—in clothing manufacture the operation of pressing-off a garment, as a coat, preparatory to marking and sewing on buttons. Compare Underpressing and After p.

=Fish=—a dart or V. See Dart.

=Fish bag=—see Live net.

=Fish-eye face=—trade name for pearl and other buttons having a slightly rounded f. across which an oval slit is cut holding two holes to sew thru.

=Fishing boot=—same as hunting b. (qv) without the hobnails.

=Fishing cape=—a plain c. of any waterproof material, worn as a protection against rain.

=Fishing glove=—a g. of soft leather, loose fitting, with fingers cut half length.

=Fishing hat=—almost any old thing with a wide brim; name sometimes applied to a light muslin, wide brimmed h. on a wire frame.

=Fishing helmet=—a sort of storm hat.

=Fitters=—in clothing manufacture the workmen who inspect and assemble the parts of garments as received from the cutting department.

=Fittings=—tailoring term for the necessary pieces of cloth for facings, pocket welts, etc. Compare Findings.

=Flambustious=—showy; gaudy; or good; as “we will have a flambustious time”. If this word is derived from “flam”, a lie or cheat, a certain transition of meaning has occurred.

=Flame tests=—pure dye silk will shrivel up immediately where flame is applied, leaving a dull leaden color without fire; weighted silk retains flame after match is removed and may either shrivel or burn up; cotton or other substitute or adulterant, except wool, will burn until consumed; wool chars much like silk.

=Flanging=—a process in hat manufacture subsequent to curling, binding and trimming, whereby further and final shape is given to the brims.

=Flannel=—(1) general name for a large variety of soft finisht all-wool fabrics, usually loosely woven of coarse lightly twisted yarns and but very slightly fulled, tho commonly well teasled. For men’s wear generally a very superior grade, of twill weave, fulled to a degree resembling cheviot. See also Mackinaw f., Navy twills, Shirting f., Shaker f., Baby f., etc.; (2) weaving term for undyed cloths and suiting fabrics as they come from the loom and before they reach the dye vat.

=Flannelette=—a stout half-cotton or all-cotton flannel-like fabric, loom figured and close napt. See Outing cloth.

=Flannels=—colloquial for (1) summer outing suits (usually coat and trousers) of flannel, properly in white or light colorings; and (2) for winter woolen undergarments.

=Flap=—a limber hanging part; a covering for pockets in garments.

=Flap=—the shield or falling front part of front fall trousers.

=Flap-pad=—see Pad and Looney.

=Flapped pocket=—a p. with a flap over its opening. Compare Welted p.

=Flare=—an outward spreading or widening, as of the skirts of a coat.

=Flashy=—showy, meretricious.

=Flask funnel=—a device to assist you in not wasting it.

=Flat back=—tailor’s term for a man over-erect with a narrow back and full chest.

=Flat bound=—in tailoring an edge finish obtained by the use of a wide silk or other braid laid widely on the face or outer surface and but narrowly underneath and over the edge, then stitcht onto the two surface edges and prest, obtaining a flattened effect.

=Flat braid=—formed by a number of threads laid zigzag and crossing each other alternately over and under. See Silk b.

=Flat button=—not hollowed, or rounded, or shaped in any way—a general term.

=Flat buttonhole=—see Satin b.

=Flat foot=—needing an arch support (qv).

=Flat goods=—trade term for hosiery, underwear, etc., not soft ribbed or fashioned.

=Flat iron=—trade term for a style in shoes popular several years ago, quite pointed at the toe but widening sharply to the ball of the foot, resembling a flat iron in shape, hence name.

=Flat last=—trade term for shoes with the soles resting flat on the ground. Compare Rocking l.

=Flat seam=—see Pique s.

=Flat set=—hatter’s term for very flat hat brims.

=Flax comb=—a hatchel.

=Fleece=—see Wool.

=Flesher=—one who fleshes hides.

=Fleshers=—trade name for split glove skins as received from abroad.

=Fleshing=—a process in the curing and dressing of furs and leather: removing the flesh and fat from the skin.

=Fleshings=—properly, flesh-colored tights; loosely, tights in general, particularly if liberally exhibiting the anatomy.

=Fleuret silk=—same as Spun s.

=Float=—in weaving, the passage of a filling thread under or over several warp threads without being engaged by them.

=Flock=—short refuse or finely powdered wool waste or dust used in finishing cheap woolens. (Flocks.) See Extract wool.

=Floorwalker=—a smooth gentleman, hired to add dignity to a store, who directs you to some place you did not ask for.

=Florentine=—(1) a heavy silk fabric, woven figured or plain twilled, chiefly used for waistcoats; (2) a worsted waistcoating material; (3) a twilled cotton fabric for summer trousers.

=Floret=—trade term for the longest and finest fibers of spun silk (qv) after carding. (=Fleuret.=)

=Florist=—a shopkeeper with whom young dandies become intimate before marriage and forget afterward.

=Flossy=—giddy, foppish, fussy, affected (perhaps both in brain and apparel).

=Flower buttonhole=—see Lapel b.

=Flunky=—(1) liveried man-servant; (2) a toady.

=Flush=—to float or pass weft threads over several warp threads, as in twill and satin weaving.

=Flushing coat=—something worn about 1825, but not identified.

=Fly=—a placket for closing or fastening together sides or parts of a garment, as of an overcoat or trousers, so as to conceal the buttons or other means of fastening. Specially designated as blind f., box f., French f., open f. (qv).

=Fly coat=—a long jacket reaching about half way to the knees, worn previous to the Revolution.

=Fly front=—tailoring term for coats made with an arrangement for concealing the buttons or other fastenings; a sort of placket of which the underpart engages the buttons, hooks, etc. Trousers also are f.-f. (except front falls).

=Fob=—(1) a pendant attachment to a watch, usually of silk, with gold buckle, slide, ring, seal or other ornament; an article of jewelry most variously made; (2) a watch pocket in a trousers waistband.

=Fob pocket=—see Watch p.

=Fob ribbon=—heavy, close-woven, plain edged gros-grain or fine ribbed faille silk r. made especially for watch fobs.

=Fold-back cuffs=—shirt c., usually attacht to the garment, made double or folded backward. Also called French c.

=Folded collar=—a double or folded-over shirt c., usually high banded.

=Folded cuffs=—see Fold-back c.

=Folding cane=—a walking stick with a concealed joint at about half its length, to enable it to fold and be carried in a suit case or grip.

=Fool’s cap=—a conical paper c. worn penitentially by the school cut-up.

=Foot bath=—a vessel for bathing the feet.

=Foot boy=—a boy in livery; a page.

=Foot cloth=—(1) a cloth or carpet to walk upon on occasions of ceremony; (2) a deep housing or state caparison for a horse; a sumptor c.

=Footease=—proprietary name for a powder to “shake into your shoes” as a fetich against walking aches.

=Foot-form=—shoes constructed on anatomical or foot-fitting lasts; orthopedic; waukenphast (qv).

=Foot glove=—a heavy, coarse woolen or felt oversock, worn over shoes while driving, etc., for warmth.

=Foot hawker=—a peripatetic peddler; a tray or pushcart merchant.

=Foot-mantle=—see Safeguard.

=Foot muff=—a muffler; a fur bag for the feet.

=Foot powder=—a chemical preparation shaken into the shoes for relieving perspiration, aches, odors, etc.

=Foot scraper=—see Shoe s.

=Foot-sheet=—a square or oblong cloth laid upon floor or chairs for invalids to sit upon during toilet, changing of bedding, etc.

=Foot-stone=—a small memorial tablet at the foot of a grave.

=Foot-straps=—the buckled straps used to hold down the pantaloons and trousers of the early part of the last century.

=Foot-warmer=—any contrivance for warming the feet in carriages, in bed, etc., as (1) a muff, (2) a metal container having slow-burning cartridges of carbon; (3) a hot brick; (4) a hot-water bottle; (5) an electric warming pad; (6) a night policeman’s club.

=Football jacket=—a sort of stout canvas cuirass, armless, laced up the front.

=Football leg guards=—see Shin g.

=Football mouthpiece=—protective chewing gum for scrimmages.

=Football pads=—quilted leather p. for elbows and shoulders, worn inside the jersey or sweater.

=Football pants=—knickerbockers of canvas, khaki, etc., padded, quilted, and sometimes with reed guards sewed into the upper leg.

=Football shoe=—a s. laced well down towards toes with ankle-padding, and spikes or cleats on soles.

=Footgear=—shoes and so forth.

=Foothold=—a light skeleton overshoe of rubber protecting the fore-sole, but without heel, kept on by a heel strap.

=Footman’s livery=—house dress: footman’s coat, valencia or plush waistcoat, trousers, shoes, white tie; or court l. (qv); on the carriage, he should wear the second man’s l.

=Fop=—cross between dandy and dude.

=Forage cap=—a small, low cloth c. with a peak, once worn by officers and men (U. S. A.) when not in dress uniform.

=Forchet=—old spelling of fourchette (qv).

=Forelock=—a lock of hair growing over the forehead.

=Forepart=—that part of a coat or vest covering the chest.

=Forest wool=—a textil fiber made from pine needles treated with a soda solution, and otherwise manipulated, spun and woven into a resemblance of coarse wool, and manufactured on a considerable scale into blankets and clothing of the cheaper grades, said to be warm and durable; called wald wolle in Germany, where best known. Compare Xylolin.

=Forester’s uniform=—(=Forestry service=) material a brownish green woolen or cotton khaki as adopted by the army; coat a combination of the army officer’s coat and a business sack coat, fitting snugly about chest but rather loosely about hips and waist, with blouse (Prussian) collar, 2 outside buttoned bellowsed pockets and bronze buttons of the service; vest optional (?); trousers either ordinary or cavalry style riding breeches; shirt of gray flannel with 2 buttoned breast pockets; hat of light-colored felt, similar to army service hat; riding boots or leggings should be worn with riding breeches and high-topt, heavy shoes, preferably of surveyor’s or hunting pattern, with trousers; gloves of buckskin, short or army gauntlet pattern; overcoat same as uniform material but heavier, double-breasted, ankle length, with deep riding vent, 2 inside and 2 outside vertical pockets, broad collar.

=Forestry cloth=—a twill woven, clear-finisht worsted fabric of standard olive-drab color, made in several weights for suitings, coatings, shirtings, etc. Adopted by the government for the forestry service.

=Fork=—the os coccygis; the crotch.

=Form=—tone, smartness, propriety, stylishness, carriage, appearance, demeanor.

=Form=—a model or dummy for trying on or displaying any article of apparel or other merchandise.

=Form fitting=—following the lines of the body closely.

=Forming=—a process in hat manufacture wherein the fur is attracted to a perforated fan by air-suction, then covered with cloths and dipped in warm water and afterward “hardened” by careful manipulation and rolling to make the fibers knit together.

=Forward stock=—the merchandise actually before the customer. Compare Reserve s.

=Foulard=—properly a light-weight silk fabric, woven plain or twilled, printed with an all-over pattern, the designs of which are white or color of the fabric, the background solid color.

=Fountain pen=—doubtless invented to spoil waistcoats.

=Four-cornered cap=—see Mortarboard.

=Four hole=—trade term for buttons pierced with 4 holes or eyes.

=Four hundred=—McAllisterian thaumaturgy.

=Fourchette=—the inner sides of glove fingers. If you will examine a glove it will be seen that it is cut all of one piece with the exception of the thumb and the fourchettes, for which the remaining fragments of the skin are used.

=Four-in-hand=—a long necktie narrow where it goes around the collar but with widened ends, tied in a sailor knot.

=Fownes=—trade diminutive for the general line of gloves made by Fownes Bros. & Co., London.

=Fox=—a piece of leather applied over the upper leather of a shoe, next to the sole, either for ornament or repair. See Foxed.

=Fox=—a canine mammal whose pelt is highly esteemed for winter garments.

=Fox tail=—see Wig.

=Foxt=—a word usually used as f. quarter, f. top or upper. Foxt designates a peculiar pattern or style for the upper of a shoe.

(=Foxed.=) See Fox.

=Frame=—the metal ribs of an umbrella.

=Frame made=—trade term for fabric gloves knitted without seams.

=Frameless spectacles=—s. (qv) without frame or rim around the lenses.

=Frangipanni=—a perfume derived from or imitating the odor of the (West Indian) red jasmin.

=Franklin avenue=—a street in St. Louis having a number of small cheap clothing shops (compare South street and Halstead street); a local synonym for cheap clothing.

=Fray=—to ravel, to loosen; employed in describing cloth too soft or too loosely woven to hold stitches in a raw edge or seam.

=Freak=—anything monstrous, extreme in style, vulgarly ostentatious; a senseless innovation; outre.

=French back=—trade term for a soft-twilled woolen backing of different weave from the face, formed on the underside of clear-finisht worsteds, as trouserings, and other fabrics, with the object of increasing weight or stability without adding appreciably to the cost, or as a means of reducing cost.

=French back=—an overcoat (a modification of a Chesterfield) with a graceful shapely back and a long center vent usually reaching to the waist line, the side seams to the waist line being commonly French prest inverted plaits; made to button in front with a fly or to button thru as in a body coat.

=French calf=—indicating calfskin shoe leather produced by (1) a particular and standard method of tanning or finishing; (2) a c. skin tanned and finished in France.

=French cambric=—a very fine quality of cambric used for handkerchiefs, etc.

=French coney=—imitation sealskin.

=French cuffs=—see Fold-back c.

=French edge=—in leather goods manufacture, as luggage, an edge seamed outwardly, sewn thru and thru; “cobbler sewed”.

=French facing=—the inside cloth facing of a coat, so cut as to extend around the armholes.

=French fall=—see Falling band.

=French falls=—the top boots of the XVI. century, having wide, flaring tops that were turned down and then turned up again; also known as bucket tops.

=French felling=—in tailoring a method of holding two pieces of material together, as the forepart and the facing of an edge. The parts to be joined are laid flat, edges even, right sides within. The needle is past straight thru, at right angles with the edge and close to it from underneath, upwards. The goods are then turned right side out and the edge finisht with stitching as desired, the felling being intended to hold the edge and prevent raveling.

=French fly=—see Blind f.

=French foot=—trade term for hosiery made with a single seam in the center of the sole. See English f.

=French neck=—(1) in tailoring, meaning a finish given to the back of the neck of a waistcoat by means of a double strip of lining material instead of the cloth from which the garment is made, for purposes of thinness, permitting the coat collar to set closer to the shirt c.; (2) in underwear, a crocheted instead of a welted or seamed n.

=French percale=—see Percale.

=French prest=—tailoring term applied usually to seams that are sharply prest; as, the skirts of dress and frock coats; inverted plaits in sack and overcoats. (F. pressed.)

=French seal=—“electric” seal; imitation.

=French seams=—first sewed outside out, then turned in and sewed again, so that the edges of the seam are concealed.

=French serge=—a fine twilled, closely woven s.

=French sizes=—name given to various peculiar methods of designating the sizes of shoes by stamping numerals or letters on the inside lining of the shoe. See Appendix.

=French system=—weaving term for worsted yarns spun on mules, usually from shorter staple than required for the Bradford s. (qv), well adapted for soft-faced goods and velour finishes.

=French toe=—in shoemaking, a wide, plain t. without cap.

=French waist=—trade term for trousers made without a sewed-on waistband.

=French yarns=—worsted y. combed dry, without oil, resulting in a fairly fuzzy or wooly strand, but which, however, is less liable to shrink than y. spun by the English system. Compare English y.

=Fribble=—a trifling or frivolous affectation or fad.

=Fried egg=—a low flat hat.

=Friend=—a borrower.

=Frieze=—a thick, stout, double-woven, napt woolen overcoating, woven of long fleece doubled after spinning, thoroly fulled after weaving and slightly felted until waterproof and windproof, and finisht with a long, unsheared shaggy nap. Said to have originated in Friesland, whence name, but better known thru the Irish or near-Irish varieties.

=Fright wig=—general term for any monstrosity in the (theatrical) wig line.

=Frill=—an ornamental strip of material gathered at the attacht edge, the other edge being free; a flounce; a ruffle.

=Frills=—affected airs or manners in dress or ornament; fopperies.

=Frippery=—tawdry finery.

=Frize holland=—a superior grade of fine bleacht Holland linen, once used largely for shirts, etc.

=Frock-Chesterfield=—a single-breasted, fly-front overcoat, with a waist seam, a three-seam back as in a frock coat, and with skirts without plaits (1907).

=Frock coat=—properly a c. either single or double-breasted, constructed of parts known as forepart (which in double-breasted coats is divided at the front line of the chest), sidebody, divided backpart and skirt, of each 2, the backparts continuing down to the bottom, joining with the skirt parts and forming the plaits behind, in which pockets are sometimes placed; when the skirts in front are cutaway from a point near the waistline the word cutaway is prefixt to distinguish from the more formal garment, “Prince Albert”, as the double-breasted f. is commonly known; the “cutaway frock” (of which the [English] walking c. is a variation) is almost invariably single-breasted and consequently not made with divided foreparts.

=Frock coat=—(=navy=) for all officers, a c. similar in cut to a civilian’s f. c., but of dark blue cloth, double-breasted, with 2 rows of large navy buttons, 9 each, buttoning on the six lower buttons; the sleeves, collar and shoulders bearing the insignia prescribed for the rank of the wearer.

=Frocking=—coarse cotton jean; drilling; dungaree; fustian.

=Frog=—an ornamental cloak or coat button or fastening of silk or wool crocheted or braided in various fancy forms.

=Frog=—(1) an old term for a seaman’s coat or frock; (2) a leather pocket or case for a pistol, bayonet or cutlass.

=Front=—a one-word epigram for appearance—clothes, manners, etc.

=Front facing=—in coat and vest making the strip of goods forming the inside forepart or edge of the garment.

=Front-falls=—trousers not made with a single fly-opening, but with a wide front flap, buttoning on both sides.

=Frosts=—spiked soles for walking on ice (early 18th century).

=Fudge wheeling=—an ornamental process in the finishing of the edges of shoe soles.

=Full-baste=—tailoring term for a coat or other garment ready for try-on with every seam basted, instead of some of the seams being sewed up.

=Full bellows tongue=—a tongue in a laced shoe, attacht to both sides of the tops of the shoe at the opening and filling completely this opening.

=Full bottom=—see Wig.

=Full box=—lingo for a very loose effect in overcoats.

=Full chested=—bulgy.

=Full dress=—see Evening d.

=Full dress=—(=army=) the prescribed uniform worn on state occasions at home and abroad; when receiving or calling upon the President or upon the ruler or member of royal family of other countries; and at ceremonies and entertainments when it is desirable to do special honor to the occasion, or when f. d. is prescribed for enlisted men. For general officers, dismounted; f. d. coat and trousers, chapeau, epaulets, sash, white gloves, f. d. belt, saber, black shoes; same, mounted: f. d. coat, dress breeches, f. d. cap, shoulder knots, sash, drab leather gloves, f. d. belt, saber, black boots, spurs; officers of staff corps and departments: officers of cavalry, artillery, infantry and engineers, dismounted: f. d. coat and trousers, f. d. cap, white gloves, f. d. belt, saber, black shoes, and aigulets and shoulder belts for those authorized to wear them; same, mounted: f. d. coat, dress breeches, f. d. cap, drab leather gloves, f. d. belt, black boots, spurs; aigulets and shoulder belts as authorized; chaplains, dismounted: f. d. coat and trousers, chaplain’s hat, white gloves, black shoes; same, mounted: f. d. coat, dress breeches, drab leather gloves, black boots, spurs, chaplain’s hat; for enlisted men, worn at reviews, parades, and other ceremonies under arms, unless otherwise prescribed; dismounted: dress coat, with breast cord, dress trousers, dress cap, black shoes, white gloves, russet leather belt and cartridge box; mounted: dress coat with breast cord, dress breeches, dress cap, leggings, russet leather shoes, drab leather gloves, spurs, saber belt, and cartridge box (when prescribed).

=Full dress=—(=navy=) worn on ceremonial occasions such as making or exchanging visits with officers of flag rank, foreign officials, etc., and on ceremonies and entertainments where “dress” is not sufficient. Consists of—for all commissioned officers, except chaplains, chief boatswains, chief gunners, chief carpenters and chief sailmakers: f. d. trousers, cockt hat, epaulets, sword and f. d. belt, scarf, white gloves, medals and badges; for the officers excepted above and for warrant officers, mates and clerks, the same as “Undress A”, and for midshipmen, the same as prescribed for commissioned officers, substituting the blue cap for the cockt hat and shoulder knots for epaulets.

=Full dress=—(=marine corps=) to be worn by officers on occasions of ordinary ceremony, such as usual reviews, inspections, street parades, etc.; by enlisted men on occasions of ceremony when officers appear in special f. d. or f. d. uniform, and when ordered by commanding officer; and by members of the band on occasions of parades or reviews when officers appear in special f. d. or f. d. uniform and when ordered by commanding officer. Consists of—for major general commanding: f. d. coat, f. d. or white trousers, chapeau, f. d. cap or white helmet, sash, sword with f. d. belt and knot, shoulder knots, white gloves, black shoes, white standing collar (or, when mounted, dark blue riding breeches, drab leather gloves, black boots with spurs); for officers of the line: a similar uniform except no chapeau or sash; for officers of staff: a similar uniform except aigulets instead of shoulder knots, no chapeau or sash; for enlisted men (including non-commissioned officers, drummers and trumpeters): f. d. coat, blue or white trousers, f. d. cap or white helmet, white gloves, black leather shoes, arms and accouterments as ordered; for leader, drum-major and all members of band: f. d. coat, blue or white trousers, special f. d. cap or white helmet (shako for drum-major only), epaulets (leader only), shoulder knots, aigulets (except for drum-major) sword with f. d. knot and belt, (leader only) white gloves, black leather shoes, accouterments as ordered.

=Full dress=—(=revenue cutter service=) worn by officers on occasions of special ceremony and quarterly muster on board vessels of first and second rate; first visits to commanders of war vessels and military posts, parades of ceremony, etc.; consists of frock coat, plain dark blue trousers, epaulets, chapeau, sword, f. d. belt and sword knot.

=Full dress belt=—for naval officers of the rank of rear admiral and higher, of dark blue cloth with gold stripes of prescribed widths and with blue cloth sling straps likewise decorated; for commissioned officers, with certain exceptions, of dark blue silk webbing, with woven gold stripes.

=Full dress breeches=—(=marine corps=) for all mounted officers, of same material, and with same stripes, as f. d. trousers cut as prescribed for field b.; worn with black boots and spurs.

=Full dress cap=—(=army=) for all officers, a c. of dark blue cloth, with drooping visor of black patent leather and a flat gold cap-strap, with bands of gold lace and velvet and insignia according to rank.

=Full dress cap=—(=marine corps=) of fine dull finisht dark blue cloth, the sides 3¾ in. deep in front and 3½ in. in back, the top flat and slightly oval and flaring out slightly, the visor dropt at an angle of about 60° from the horizontal. For major general commandant, having a band of dark blue velvet 1¾ in. wide, embroidered all around with gold oak leaves, the visor covered with dark blue cloth, the top trimmed with loops of narrow gold soutache braid, and otherwise finisht and decorated as prescribed. For all other officers, the same, except the band is of gold lace; the visor for officers of line and staff to be ornamented with gold thread, and for company officers and captains in the staff of plain black patent leather; for non-commissioned officers, drummers, trumpeters and privates, a similar c., but with a band of scarlet cloth lapseamed to blue sides, red worsted soutache ornament on top of c.; other details per specifications; for leader of the band, second leader and musicians, same as prescribed for special full dress. For drum-major, a shako of black lambskin, 8½ in. high in front, 10 in. high in back, plain red cloth top and red cloth bag trimmed with gold soutache braid, gilt chin strap form under chin, and 12 in. red, white and blue vulture feather plume on right side.

=Full dress coat=—(=army=) a double-breasted frock c. of dark blue cloth with a standing collar, 2 gilt buttons at back of waist and 1 near the end of each plait behind; the skirt to extend from one-half to three-quarters of the distance from hip to knee. For general officers: collar and cuffs of blue-black velvet; for other officers, collar of same material as c., no cuffs. Buttons in front: for general, 2 rows of 12, placed by 4’s; lieutenant general, 2 rows of 10, placed 3 upper and lower, 4 in middle; major general, 2 rows of 9, placed by 3’s; colonel, lieutenant colonel and major, 2 rows of 9, spaced equally; captain, first and second lieutenants, 2 rows of 7 equally spaced. For chief of engineers, same as for general officers, except that a piping of scarlet velvet appears on upper and outer edges of lapels, continuing down the edges of the coat to bottom of skirt and from top of back flaps to bottom of skirt, with a skirt facing of scarlet velvet; for other officers of engineer corps, similar piping and facing, but of scarlet cloth. For all officers, sleeve, collar and shoulder ornaments as prescribed by regulation.

=Full dress coat=—(=marine corps=) for major general commandant and all line officers, a double-breasted frock c. of dark blue cloth, in length 1 in. below crotch, with standing collar, 2 rows of large marine corps buttons wider apart at top than at bottom (9 placed in 3’s for major general commandant, 8 equidistant for other officers), 2 pockets in skirt folds, collars and cuffs with trimmings prescribed for rank of wearer. For officers of staff, a single-breasted tunic of dark blue cloth, in length 1 in. below crotch, with closed skirt behind, trimmed as for line officers, but without pockets, standing collar, and with trimmings as prescribed; aigulets and shoulder knots with f. d. and special f. d. For non-commissioned officers and privates, a single-breasted tunic of dark blue cloth, reaching 1 in. below crotch, 8 large marine corps buttons in front and 2 in back at end of waist seam, standing collar, the coat piped down front, around the bottom and up the plaits of the skirt to waist seam with ⅛ in. scarlet cloth; scarlet shoulder straps and sleeve bands and other details as prescribed. For drummers and trumpeters, a c. of the same style, except that it is of scarlet cloth with white piping, black collar, black shoulder straps and black sleeve bands, these straps piped with white; for leader of the band, a tunic of dark blue cloth, same patterns as prescribed for staff officers, except: the breast trimmed across with ⅛ in. gold tubular braid and 3 rows of marine corps buttons, 7 each row; cuffs trimmed as prescribed for first lieutenant without the scarlet backing. For second leader of band, a f. d. c. of scarlet cloth, made as prescribed for enlisted men of the line, except: the collar of black broadcloth piped with white; front and bottom edges and back of skirt plaits to waist piped with white; front trimmed across with black mohair braid (in the same manner as undress c. of officers) and with 3 rows of marine corps buttons, 7 each. For musicians of band, same as for second leader, except: with pointed cuffs of black broadcloth. For drum-major, same as prescribed, for second leader, except: collar of scarlet cloth trimmed with gold lace and piped with white cloth, breast trimmed with ½ in. gold tubular braid, pointed cuffs, outlined with ½ in. gold tubular braid. Other details per regulations.

=Full dress coat=—(=navy=) for bandsmen a single-breasted tunic of scarlet cloth, buttoned to the neck with 8 gilt buttons, standing collar, the front edges, bottom and skirt plaits (to waist seam) piped with white cloth, no outside pockets, shoulder decorations as prescribed.

=Full dress frock coat=—(=revenue cutter service=) for all commissioned officers: of dark navy-blue cloth, double-breasted, buttoning to the neck, rolling collar, 2 rows of service buttons on breast, 9 each side, spaced equidistant, full skirts extending nearly to the knee, trimmings, attachments, etc., as prescribed.

=Full dress saber belt=—see Saber b.

=Full dress shirt=—see Evening d. s.

=Full dress sword belt=—(=marine corps=) for all officers and leader of the band, of 1½ in. marine corps gold lace with a ³⁄₁₆ in. stripe of scarlet silk thru the center, white leather lining, showing edges, ⅛ in. Slings of same material and design.

=Full dress trousers=—see Evening d. t.

=Full dress trousers=—(=army=) for general officers, of dark blue cloth with 2 stripes of gold wire lace mounted on velvet, of the color of coat collar, along outer seams; for chief of engineers, the interval between the stripes of scarlet velvet; for officers of staff corps and departments (except engineers) 1 stripe of gold lace; for officers of engineer corps, stripes of scarlet cloth with white piping; for officers of cavalry, artillery and infantry, of sky-blue cloth with 1½ in. stripes, welted at the edges, of the colors of the facings of their respective corps or arms, except that for infantry the stripes are white; for chaplains, of plain black or dark blue cloth, without stripe, welt or cord.

=Full dress trousers=—(=navy=) of dark blue cloth with a stripe of gold lace covering the outseam of each leg.

=Full dress trousers=—(=marine corps=) for major general commandant and all staff officers, of dark blue cloth, cut with medium spring, side pockets, outseams trimmed with 1¼ in. black mohair braid. For line officers, same as Special f. d. For non-commissioned officers, of sky-blue kersey, outseams finisht with 1 in. stripe of welted edge scarlet cloth. For privates, the same without the scarlet stripes. For drummers and trumpeters, the same except that the outseams have a ³⁄₁₆ in. scarlet welt; for leader of the band, same as prescribed for line officer’s special f. d. For second leader and musicians, same as prescribed for privates, except: with 2½ in. stripes of scarlet cloth down outer seams, stitcht on the outer edges, showing ¼ in. of light blue between. For drum-major, same as prescribed for other non-commissioned officers.

=Full dress uniforms=—(=army, navy, marine corps, etc.=) see Full d., et var.

=Full dress waistcoat=—see Evening d. w.

=Full fashioned=—general term for hosiery, etc., produced on automatic knitting machines, made in flat strips or patterns and then joined, either by machine or by hand. See F. regular.

=Full feather=—in full dress; attired in one’s best clothes.

=Full fig=—(nautical) full dress.

=Full frock=—the double-breasted frock coat, or “Prince Albert”.

=Full-headed=—tailoring term, meaning having fine plaits or puckers of material in the upper part, as a sleeve; not skimpt; more liberal than usual; specially, a joining of sleeve and shoulder so that top of sleeve head shows up full. See Sleeve head.

=Full peg=—tailoring term for extra baggy trousers, commonly predicativ of college fledglings. See P. top and Half p.

=Full regular=—trade term for hosiery and underwear in which the seams are made by hand knitting instead of by machine; the most expensiv grade.

=Full Scotch=—see Scotch edge.

=Full skeleton=—tailoring term for coats made without lining. Compare Half s.

=Full uniform=—the complement of costume, ornaments, arms, etc., prescribed for officers and men in the military and naval service on inspection, parade and ceremonial occasions. See Full dress, Special full dress, etc.

=Full vamp=—shoemaking term for vamps where the toes are not cut away under the tips. See Whole v., et var.

=Fulled=—made thicker and more compact by shrinking.

=Fuller’s earth=—a species of non-plastic clay used as an absorbent of grease and oil and as a cleansing agent; also used in fulling cloth.

=Fulling=—the process of cleansing and condensing (or shrinking) woolen and worsted goods to render them stronger and firmer. See encyclopedia.

=Fulling gum=—a substance used for preparing warps for weaving.

=Fur beaver=—a long-napt cloth imitating fur.

=Fur felt=—hatter’s term for f. (and hats thereof) made from the fur of nutria, beaver, coney or other fur-bearing animals.

=Fur seal=—the “sealskin de luxe”, being of much finer texture than wool s. and correspondingly more valuable. Found in Alaska, Shetland Islands, Lobos Island, etc., the former being of the most uniform excellence. The hide of this variety is seldom, if ever, used for leather.

=Furbelow=—(1) a plaited or puckered flounce; (2) broadly, redundant or superfluos finery or ornament.

=Furrier=—(1) a dealer in or maker of fur goods and garments; (2) a fur dresser.

=Furrier’s knife=—a flat piece of steel, having the general outlines of a rhomb, one edge of which is sharpened, the opposite edge or top being concaved to form a handle.

=Furs=—familiar term for fur outergarments.

=Fuscous=—dusky; grayish brown, tawny.

=Fussy=—fancy, effeminate, meretricious.

=Fustian=—(1) formerly a kind of stout cloth made of cotton and flax; (2) now a coarse twilled linen or cotton fabric; (3) corduroy and similar fabrics are also so-called.

G

=G-string=—an aboriginal modesty-bit.

=Gabardine=—a cloak-like garment worn by Russian Jews; usually made of black cloth, silk or moire; it is buttoned down front to waist, whence it hangs to the ankles.

=Gabardine=—a close-woven, fine twilled waterproof cotton cloth for sporting and motor wear. Probably a blind name.

=Gag=—investiture for the mouth, of any sufficient model, style, or material, worn at discretion when the alternativ might be hurtful, usually applied by burglars who object to raucous cacophony.

=Gaiter=—(1) a cloth or leather covering for the leg or ankle; a spatterdash or overgaiter; (2) a shoe without opening, but elastic gores at the sides. See Congress g.

=Gaiter bottoms=—tailoring term for trousers cut snug at the ankle and extending out covering the instep with strap fastening beneath the foot.

=Gaiter trousers=—just described (vs).

=Galashiels=—a town in Scotland famous for its tweeds known by that name.

=Galatea=—(1) a striped worsted suiting faintly suggestiv of Bedford cord; (2) a stout striped cotton fabric, used for shirts, pinafores, etc.

=Gallant=—(1) a (good or bad) man who pays court or markt attention to women; (2) a beau; (3) a man of showy or ostentatious attire.

=Galligaskins=—(1) wide hose or trousers formerly worn by seamen; (2) leather leggings. See Venetians.

=Galloon=—general term for various kinds of worsted, silk or tinsel lace or decorativ braid used on uniforms, etc.

=Galloon-gallant=—contemptuous for an over-decorated fop.

=Galloway=—a breed of cattle raised in Scotland, noted for the softness and excellence of their glossy black hair; the skins are used for fur coats, lap robes, etc.

=Gallows=—an early name for what we now call suspenders, modernly corrupted to “galluses”.

=Galluses=—suspenders. See Gallows.

=Gambados=—boot-like leathers, resembling leggings or spatterdashes, attacht to a saddle, protecting the feet and serving as stirrups.

=Gambeson=—an old-time (’way back) coat of leather or cloth, stuft and quilted, worn defensivly.

=Gambroon=—a twilled cloth of worsted-and-cotton or linen-and-cotton, used for summer trousers; also a twilled linen lining material.

=Game bag=—similar to an ammunition b., but with ventilating holes.

=Gams=—slang for legs, and by extension, trousers.

=Gants=—French for gloves.

=Gape=—a yawning or divergence, as of coat tails spreading apart, or of coat collar standing out and away from the neck.

=Garb=—one’s dress in its entirety; costume; style or peculiarity of apparel, as clerical g.

=G. A. R. uniform=—a plain blue sack suit, the coat either single or double-breasted, with brass buttons, and commonly a black slouch hat, with cord and tassels and gilt badge.

=Garibaldi=—a loose blouse waist resembling those worn by the soldiers of Garibaldi, the Italian patriot.

=Garmenture=—a generic name for dress.

=Garner’s=—trade diminutiv for the fine shirting percales manufactured by Garner & Co., Reading, Pa., and Pleasant Valley, N.Y.

=Garnetted=—trade term for fabrics containing garnetted or made over carded yarns. Garnetted worsteds, for illustration, are not entitled to the designation “pure worsted”. See Garnetting.

=Garnetting=—the process of separating clippings, waste, etc., into new spinning fibers, resulting in carded yarns, usually mixt with good fibers, as garnetted worsted with wool, etc.

=Garrison pocket=—the right hip p.

=Garrison shoes=—(=army=) for enlisted men: of russet calf, Blucher style.

=Garter ring=—a gold finger r. made in imitation of a strap buckled in a circle.

=Garter webbing=—a narrow, elastic textil band or ribbon, having strips of India rubber as part of its warp; elastic w. (qv).

=Garters=—commonly, elastic bands capable of being elongated and adjusted ad libitum, worn around the lower extremities of one’s locomotiv members for maintaining the proper position and required altitude for the habiliments of the tibia.

=Garters=—nautical slang for leg irons.

=Gas iron=—a tailor’s smoothing or pressing i., heated by internal gas jets.

=Gasoline iron=—a tailor’s i. heated within by means of a gasoline flame, the fluid being contained in a tank affixt to the outside.

=Gassing=—a finishing process in cotton cloth manufacturing; removing the fuzz by singeing.

=Gauche=—in ill taste, awkward.

=Gauntlet=—a glove with wide cuffs attacht, usually stiff, covering the coat sleeves, to protect from dust and wind in driving; originally a mailed covering for the hand and wrist, often with offensiv armor.

=Gauze=—any light open-woven cotton, silk or wool material.

=Gauze weaving=—a method in which the warp threads are more or less intertwined among themselves, achieving light, open texturs and many fanciful or lacy combinations; if plain it is usually called leno.

=Gem=—any precious stone, particularly when cut and set ready for wearing.

=Gem peg=—a rest for the g. stick (qv) in g. cutting.

=Gem stick=—a rod, on the end of which a g. is cemented whilst being cut.

=Gem stone=—general term given to minerals suitable for cutting, as a g.

=Gemel ring=—a r. formed of 2 or more rings; a puzzle r.

=Genapping=—a process in woolen manufacture by which the free fuzz or loose fiber known as “nap” is removed from woolen yarn by singeing to make it suitable for certain kinds of cloth.

=General’s uniform=—see Full dress, Dress u., White u., Service u. Also see variants.

=Geneva gown=—a clergyman’s full g. of black silk or wool stuff, made with an inner cassock-front, meeting in a sort of military collar, with white banks at the neck, and buttoning all the way down the front.

=Genoese velvet=—a rich patterned silk v., sometimes interwoven with gold thread.

=Gent=—not a gentleman.

=Gent’s furnisher=—the vulgar general title of a very respectable business.

=Genteel=—les bourgeois gentilhommes.

=German sock=—a knitted s. of extra heavy wool, with buckled tops or with canvas legging tops reaching to the knee, for wear with arctics or heavy shoes.

=Get up=—a scheme of costume; the way you are drest.

=Gew-gaw=—any flashy, useless ornament.

=Ghaba=—a long, loose flowing coatlike garment worn by the merchant class in Persia; is double-breasted, lapping over and fastening with 2 buttons, while, about the waist, a shawl is wound several times, knotted and the ends tuckt out of sight.

=Gift-of-gab=—an eccentricity of salesmen.

=Gig=—a machine for raising a nap on cloth by passing it over rotating cylinders armed with teasels. Compare Slubbing machine.

=Gigging=—giving a nap to woolen cloths, such as broadcloths, beaver, chinchilla, melton, etc.

=Giller=—a horsehair fishing line.

=Gilling=—a step in the process of combing worsted yarns; bringing the fibers level and parallel into a uniform strand.

=Gilt button=—brass.

=Gimmal ring=—see Gemel r.

=Gimp buttonhole=—made as described under b. making, but employing very coarse silk twist, and taking long, regular stitches over a heavy cord. Contrast Satin b. h.

=Gingerbread=—over-fancy, glaring, loud, fussy, insubstantial.

=Gingham=—a plain-woven reversible cotton fabric, loom-patterned in simple checks, stripes and plaids.

=Gingham=—vernacular for a large family umbrella.

=Ginning=—a step in the process of preparing cotton for weaving; separating, mechanically, the seeds from the fiber.

=Girdle=—the circumferential rim of a diamond or other precious stone; the line of juncture of the upper and lower pyramids. See Brilliant cutting.

=Glace=—glove trade term, meaning polisht or drest kid (or other) leather.

=Glad rags=—evening dress clothes; frock coats; new or good clothes, generally.

=Glasses=—generality for eye g. or spectacles.

=Glaze=—a sizing or high finish applied to certain fabrics, as sleeve linings, hat trimmings, cheap underwear trimmings, etc. See Glazing, Sizing and Washable.

=Glazed kid=—trade term for kid leather finisht with a high polish, in contradistinction to dull k., which has a flat or dull appearance. See Chrome k.

=Glazing=—a glossing or calendering process effected by steam-heated steel rollers.

=Glengarry=—a cape overcoat; now known as Inverness (qv).

=Glengarry=—a Scotch cap.

=Glims=—cant for spectacles. (British).

=Gloria=—a twill woven silk and wool fabric, used largely for umbrellas.

=Gloss finish=—see High polish.

=Glove=—a leather or textil covering for the hands, having separate stalls for each finger. Anciently gloves possest considerable significance as pledges of troth and confidence, gages of battle, emblems of office, etc.—which is interesting to the searcher for curiosa, but too lengthy for this short-order book.

=Glove=—a wooden scraper, fastened to the workman’s hands, used in felting hats.

=Glove box=—a container for gloves.

=Glove kid=—a term used mostly by shoemakers to designate a fine, soft leather employed for the tops of fine shoes.

=Glove of mail=—a mailed gauntlet.

=Glove stretcher=—a device for stretching or “easing” gloves.

=Glove tree=—a wooden form in the shape of a hand for keeping gloves in condition.

=Gloversville=—a town in New York where nearly all the gloves made in this country are produced.

=Goat=—an omnivorous animal, once characteristic of Harlem and the Bronx, whose hide furnishes shoe leather and glove skins and whose pelt is made up into wild animal fur robes, etc.

=Goatee=—a beard or tuft, so trimmed that it falls from the chin like the beard of a goat; a fashion once very common, but now rare.

=Goater=—a thief’s term for dress.

=Goggle-cap=—a chauffeur’s c. having a front band in which goggles are affixt.

=Goggles=—a covering for the eyes, or also for part of the face, with glasses or lenses secured in silk gauze, leather, metal or rubber, fastened around the head with straps or wire frames and worn to exclude dust when automobiling, mining, etc.

=Gold=—a precious metal, bowed down to, in the representativ abstract, by all the tribes of Israel and by the also-ran; in commerce and industry made into jewelry for one’s wives and near-wives; in medicin as an alleged constituent of a celebrated cure for good fellows.

=Gold filled=—trade term for a compound plate of 2 sheets of g. having a sheet of baser metal between them; by extension applied to cheap jewelry made thereof.

=Gold lace=—l. wrought with g. or gilt thread; an ornamental or decorativ trimming fabric formed by weaving silken threads wound round with g. filaments; most used for military, naval and similar uniforms.

=Gold stick=—an official of the royal household of Great Britain, a colonel of the Life Guards or a captain of the gentlemen-at-arms, who bears a gilt rod on state occasions; also loosely applied to other state attendants.

=Goldsmiths’ company=—one of the ancient London guilds, having certain hereditary privileges, among them that of stamping or certifying all gold and silver.

=Golf bag=—a long, open-end b. of canvas, leather or plaid, or combinations thereof, with a sling strap, and usually with an outside pocket for balls.

=Golf cap=—general name for cloth caps made with a visor or peak, but without a band.

=Golf cloth=—see Albert c.

=Golf coat=—generally, a single-breasted sack c. or Norfolk jacket with a plaited fullness under the arms to allow freedom of stroke (whence name of Stroke c. sometimes given) with a belted back; more loosely, any old c. one is not afraid of soiling; once upon a recent time a gaudy thing of green or red, or with green or red trimmings.

=Golf discs=—small rubber knobs affixt to heels and soles of shoes for surety of footing.

=Golf glove=—a g. of soft leather, usually chamois, commonly made with open (hole) knuckles and to button on the top or outside of wrist; altho there are many other models.

=Golf hose=—heavy woolen or worsted stockings, in Scotch patterns, quite “swell” when they were costly.

=Golf shoes=—s. made for the use of golfers, with protruding nails or buttons on soles to prevent slipping.

=Golf sleeves=—trade term for neglige shirts with s. made in 2 pieces, separated and buttoning at about the hight of the elbow, the forepart being removed for freedom and comfort.

=Golf stocks=—any neck stock.

=Golf studs=—see Boot s. and G. discs.

=Golf waistcoat=—same as Coat sweater.

=Golosh=—an overshoe; formerly of wood; but modernly of rubber.

=Good form=—see Form.

=Good middling=—see Cotton classification.

=Good ordinary=—see Cotton classification.

=Goodwood=—perhaps the most fashionable race-meet in England, vieing with Ascot, but unlike the latter, being a private park, owned by the Duke of Richmond.

=Goodyear stitching=—a modern mechanical process of sewing together the sole and vamp of a shoe, the process commencing and concluding at the breast or back of heel. See below.

=Goodyear welt=—in shoemaking, meaning that the uppers and soles are secured by means of a welt sewed on the Goodyear machine, an improvement on the McKay machine. See above.

=Goose=—a tailor’s heaving smoothing iron, originally the kind heated on a stove or flame; so called from its handle, which somewhat resembles the neck of a goose.

=Gore=—a triangular piece of cloth let into a garment to widen it or eke out narrow goods; a gusset.

=Gore=—see Elastic g.

=Gorge=—that part of a coat or vest encircling the neck; where the collar, if any, is joined. Compare Opening.

=Gorget=—(1) an ornamental neckband, very full and broad in front, worn a century or two ago when men knew how to dress; (2) a steel throat armor.

=Goring=—see Elastic gore.

=Gown=—(1) a sack overcoat; a Chesterfield; a raincoat; (2) a clergyman’s robe; (3) a bachelor’s, doctor’s or other academic g.; (4) a night robe; (5) the slip or covering thrown over you whilst in the barber’s chair.

=Gownsman=—a collegian.