Chapter V

=V=—in tailoring, etc., a triangular dart cut into some part of a garment, as at the waist, for the purpose of giving shape.

=V neck=—term applied to sweaters having no collar or n., but instead a slit or V-shape opening in front. Compare Turtle n.

=Vaccination shield=—a metal or papier mache s. attacht by straps, worn over the point of v. and beneath the underclothing; a device intended to prevent the wasteful and expletiv saying of “ouch”!

=Valencia=—a stout, striped or figured vesting material, of silk or cotton warp with worsted weft, chiefly used for livery waistcoats.

=Valentian=—see Valencia.

=Valet=—the gentleman who reads master’s letters, wears his clothes and at times helps him dress.

=Valet’s brush=—a long, narrow, straightback b. with graduated bristles.

=Valet’s livery=—none at all; the valet dresses quietly like most people.

=Valeting companies=—institutions that “take care” of your wardrobe for a monthly consideration.

=Vamp=—the forepart of shoe-uppers. See Quarters.

=Vampay=—a short woolen hose or stocking reaching only to the ankles, probably the forerunner of our modern footless bicycle stocking.

=Vamping=—the process of stitching a vamp or upper to a top.

=Vandyke=—a short, close-trimmed, sharp-pointed beard.

=Vandyke flap=—in tailoring a doubly roached f.; having an edge of two concave curves, joined, resulting in points at the ends and in the center.

=Vanity=—pride: shallow, conceited and obtrusiv.

=Varnish=—shoe polish.

=’Varsity=—general term for clothes made with some eccentricity favored by college boys.

=Veal calf=—a variety of shoe leather: a skin coming from a large-sized or partly grown calf, or from a younger animal than a skin called Runner (qv).

=Vegetable flannel=—a coarse, heavy fabric woven of the “wool” obtained from pine needles. See Pine wool.

=Vegetable haircloth=—see Imitation h.

=Vegetable ivory=—the fruit or nuts of a tropical palm (phytelephas macrocarpa) found principally upon the banks of the Esmeralda river in South America. While growing the nuts are soft and creamy but soon harden, acquiring a texture not unlike animal ivory and are used, almost entirely, for making buttons. See I. nut.

=Vegetable wool=—a peculiar variety of cotton grown in Peru, rough, crinkly, strong and closely resembling animal w.

=Veldt coat=—similar to the Norfolk or shooting jacket; made very easy in fit, permitting exceptional liberty of action in hunting, golf, etc., usually worn without waistcoat.

=Vellum=—in military parlance a v. is a measurement of width of gold braid.

=Velour=—(1) a soft napt, close-bodied woolen cloth for men’s wear; (2) any fabric of or resembling velvet.

=Velour=—a velvet or silk pad for smoothing a silk hat. See Leur.

=Velour=—a coined or trade name used to designate a peculiar high glaze or finish given to certain kinds of upper leathers.

=Velutine=—a kind of corded merino.

=Velvet=—a silk fabric with a closely woven back and on the face side a thick, short, smooth nap or cut pile; usually woven double and split apart by knives; made with both silk and cotton backs and so denominated. In its various forms and qualities used for coat collars, waistcoats, livery, smoking jackets, etc.

=Velvet collar=—a c. made of v. instead of same goods as body of garment; practically confined to overcoats. See also Inlaid c. and Laid-on c.

=Velvet finish=—a form of f. given to overcoatings and similar cloths having a heavy nap—in some of which it is left curly, while on others it is left standing out. Compare Bareface f., Scotch f., Dress faced.

=Velveteen=—a silk and cotton or all-cotton velvet.

=Venetian=—a stout, closely woven, fine worsted cloth having a roundish, upright twill, commonly dyed in plain colors, moderately fulled, milled and cropt bare in finishing and given a high luster.

=Venetian=—a twilled lining material of cotton warp and worsted weft, also known as Italian cloth. Compare Farmer’s satin.

=Venetians=—a sort of knee breeches, reaching to just below the knee, said to have originated in Venice; same as galligaskins.

=Vent=—in tailoring (1) an opening; usually the lower parts of seams, for varying distances, according to style or taste, not closed but left open and lapt over or finisht to meet; (2) an outlet (qv).

=Ventilated shoe=—a s. having a more or less ornamental series of perforations or cut-out designs in the uppers, in appearance resembling a compromise between shoe and sandal.

=Verger’s gown=—a plain g. of black stuff, with velvet collar, and with short, open-slasht sleeves.

=Vertical pocket=—a slasht or welted perpendicular p., opening thru the lining or not. See Raincoat p.

=Vest=—see Waistcoat.

=Vest corner stiffener=—a device made of flexible copper wire, designed to be inserted between the material at the cutaway or lower corners of a waistcoat, with the intention of keeping the same from curling up. Not needed with a well-made waistcoat—and perhaps not likely to spoil a cheap one.

=Vest maker=—a journeyman tailor who makes waistcoats his specialty.

=Vest sweater=—a sleeveless, collarless s., open in front and closed with buttons.

=Vestee=—see Vestlet.

=Vestlet=—a shaped strip of white linen or other material pinned or otherwise fastened around the neck of a waistcoat, inside, so that a mere edging of white will show.

=Vestment=—loosely, any ecclesiastical garment.

=Vestwo=—proprietary name for a reversible vest or waistcoat made not with an inner lining, as is usual, but of two different fabrics, so that either side may be worn outward.

=Vici kid=—a trade mark name used to designate a particular method of tanning or finishing goat skins; also the shoe leather as produced.

=Vicuna=—(1) the wool of a South American animal of the camel tribe, distinguisht for exceeding softness and lightness—but because of its scarcity fine merino wool is largely substituted and so called; (2) heavily napt suiting and overcoating cloths of fine, soft, silky texture, usually twill woven, and plain dyed or in Oxford mixtures.

=Viscolized=—a coined trade mark word used to designate a particular oily waterproofing process used for finishing or preserving both sole and upper leathers, used for hunting, fishing and tramping boots. See Stuft leather.

=Viscolized calf=—see foregoing.

=Visor=—see Vizor.

=Viyella=—proprietary name for a sort of fine flannel.

=Visiting case=—(1) a variety of suit c.; (2) one of many names for suit cases.

=Vizor=—(1) a projecting piece on a cap, forming a shield for the eyes; (2) the frontpiece of a helmet with openings for seeing and breathing; (3) a mask.

=Vladimir=—a velour-finisht cassimere, made of fine Australian wool, giving a peculiar soft “handle”.

=Vulgar=—not in good taste, as loud colors, readymade scarves, collar springs, dissonant shoe laces, redundant jewelry, inappropriate articles of attire at dress functions.

=Vulgarian=—sartorially, a horrible example, and the chief patron of the cheap tailor and flash readymader; if of the new rich, a shining mark for the gaudy “swell” haberdasher and conscienceless tailor.

W

=Wadding=—the tailor’s expedient for making a lanky, gawky customer look well in the eyes of his best girl and fellow creatures; specifically thin sheets or layers of carded cotton or batting, usually of a dull slate color, the outsides of which are glazed for strength (such as it is). Compare Padding.

=Waders=—rubber hunting boots reaching to the thighs or waist.

=Wading boots=—see Waders.

=Wading pants=—rubber coverings for the legs and lower part of the body, made with rubber stocking feet or with boot soles.

=Wading shoe=—a leather or leather-and-canvas laced s., opening down to the toe, with a sewed on sole studded with hobnails.

=Wading stocking=—long hose of rubber, with soft rubber feet, attacht by a strap to the waist belt.

=Wadmoll=—a very coarse, felted woolen stuff (obsolete).

=Waist=—that part of the body between the chest and the hips lying beneath the ribs or thorax and above the haunchbones; the narrow part of the trunk. The “fashionable waist” of tailors is sometimes above and sometimes below the natural w.

=Waist=—see Shirt-w.; also Under-w.

=Waist-band=—(1) the upper part of trousers and drawers; (2) a sash.

=Waistcloth=—a strip of cotton or linen c. worn around the waist and hanging below it or passed between the thighs, worn by the unregenerate heathen.

=Waistcoat=—a short, sleeveless body garment worn between the coat and the shirt, the foreparts of which are made of cloth to match the suit or of fancy material, the backs being of a silk or mohair or cotton lining material on the outside, with a thinner fancy or plain silk or cotton lining on the inside; usually 4 welted pockets outside and one in the inside lining; vulgarly a “vest”.

=Waistcoating=—the proper name, but see Vesting.

=Waisted=—shaped with or having a waist.

=Waiter’s jacket=—a sort of tuxedo coat, cut off short at the waist, similar to a military mess j.

=Waiter’s livery=—same as Footman’s dress l.

=Waiter’s shoes=—easy s. of soft leather, with light turned soles and low heels.

=Wald wolle=—forest wool (qv).

=Wale=—a ridge, rib or flattish streak appearing above the groundwork of a woven fabric, usually a result of twilling.

=Walking coat=—resembling a cutaway frock c., but a trifle shorter and usually with pocket flaps on hips, and more frequently made of fancy suitings. Also called English walking c. and morning frock.

=Walking frock=—same.

=Walking gloves=—g. of heavy leather. Compare Dress g.

=Walking stick=—a cane—supposed to complete a man’s street equipment.

=Wall trunk=—a t. so hinged that the top and back form a straight, vertical line when opened and permit setting close to wall.

=Wallaby=—a sort of small kangaroo; hide used in fancy “leather goods”.

=Wallet=—a leather pocketbook for carrying bank notes lengthwise, also other incunabulae such as bills, billet-deux, billets d’amour, etc.

=Wambais=—a name once given to some sort of garment quilted with wool flax or tow.

=Wammus=—a sort of heavy, loose knitted, cardigan jacket, usually belted; a mosey; also spelt wamus and warmus.

=Wampen system=—an “anthropometrical system” which, like all other tailoring systems, is of alleged perfection; invented by a German scientist of that name.

=Wampum=—Indian bead work used variously for necklaces, bracelets, belts, etc., and among the early colonists as money.

=Wamsutta=—a brand of heavy muslin extensivly used for shirts.

=Wangan=—hunters’ term for clothing, cooking utensils, articles of personal comfort and other incommodia taken on a camping-out hunting trip.

=Wangan bag=—a waterproof canvas b., about the size of a meal b., for transporting hunters’ suplies (see Wangan) from camp to camp.

=War paint=—(1) an Indian’s gala decoration; (2) cant for one’s best clothes when donned for purposes of conquest.

=Wardrobe=—(1) one’s collection of garments; (2) a clothes-closet.

=Wardrobe trunk=—a t., variously constructed, but usually intended to stand apparently on end, opening up so that garments are properly held on hangers and kept in place with straps to prevent bunching; also often with a series of drawers or partitions for smaller articles of apparel.

=Warmus=—see Wammus.

=Warp=—the threads which are extended lengthwise in the loom and crossed by the filling or weft; sometimes called chain or end.

=Warp=—in mill parlance “a warp” is the quantity of chain required to fully equip a loom, about 400 yards or enough for eight 50-yard pieces of a pattern, which is the least a mill usually will start to weave, altho occasionally “half a w.” will be put on. Hence, if a buyer order one piece of a certain pattern and no one else should order of that particular style, the solitary buyer would not be likely to get his goods, the alleged reason usually being that of delay.

=Warp beam=—the roller or b. in a loom on which the w. is wound.

=Warp dresser=—a machine for sizing yarns before placing them in the loom.

=Warp mill=—a machine for arranging the threads for laying the w. in a loom.

=Warp-printed=—trade term for fabrics (usually silks) wherein the pattern or design is p. on the warp threads before weaving, the filling being of plain color or neutral shades.

=Warp wing=—a proprietary term distinguishing a certain make of shirt collars, the wings or points of which are inserted the way of the w., it being claimed that w. threads are stronger than weft threads, and hence such collars are more likely to stand the wear and tear of laundering longer than collars made in the usual way.

=Warping=—the process of making warp.

=Wash cloth=—a small, square of terry or other material, for toilet purposes.

=Wash clothes=—(nautical) garments that have been washt and hung on the line to dry.

=Wash goods=—trade term for fabrics, manufactured articles of apparel, etc., designed to be washt or laundered.

=Wash suit=—trade term for garments made of washable materials, particularly for boys and children’s wear.

=Washable=—(1) that may be washt or laundered without injury to color, texture or finish; (2) goods without special Glaze or Finish.

=Washed=—see Washt.

=Washer=—one of the old names for kersey.

=Washerlady=—a person who helps others keep up a good appearance, sometimes at her own expense; as bad a bill-collector as the tailor, and an individual who knows more secrets than she gets paid for keeping.

=Washerwoman=—many prefer the title “washerlady” (qv).

=Washing=—see Scouring.

=Washing mitten=—see Bath m.

=Washington navy serge=—a fine grade, wool-dyed worsted s. of exceptional tensil strength and wearing qualities, of a permanent rich indigo color, adopted by the U. S. Government as the standard for naval officer’s uniforms. Made by the Washington mills, one of the largest plants in America, if not in the world.

=Washt=—jewelry trade term for very cheap jewelry of base metal with a light electroplating of gold. (=Washed.=)

=Washt=—term for fleece washt on the sheep before clipping by means of cold water. Compare Scoured, Tub washt and Unmerchantable. (=Washed.=)

=Watch=—(1) a pocket timepiece; (2) a means of occasional emergent restoration of finances.

=Watch Albert=—a guard, usually of leather and metal, worn attacht to the lapel buttonhole, the w. being carried in the outside breast pocket of coat.

=Watch cap=—a knitted c. of navy-blue worsted, conical in shape, worn by enlisted men in the navy on working duty.

=Watch coat=—general name for overcoats worn by sailors on w. in cold weather, at night, etc.

=Watch-guard=—a chain, cord or ribbon attacht to a w. at one end and to the person at the other.

=Watch pocket=—(1) a small p. inserted in the waistband of trousers; also called fob p.; (2) the lower left-hand p. of a waistcoat.

=Watch wristlet=—a leather w. with a small watch embedded therein, worn by chappies at pretty outdoor games and by some motormen on street cars.

=Water bag=—a b. made of linen duck for carrying drinking water while hunting, exudation and evaporation cooling the contents.

=Water stiff=—trade term for felt hats of the cheaper grades, stiffened by a w. process. See Wine s.

=Watered=—see Moire.

=Waterfall=—a sort of puff scarf, not crost in front; a once-over.

=Watermarks=—spots or discolorations on goods (as woolen cloths, etc.), happening during process of sponging.

=Waterproof=—general name for any textil fabric so treated, by rubber or chemicals or otherwise, that it repels instead of absorbing water. See Cravenette.

=Waterproofing=—the method or process of rendering fabrics impervious to water, for which there are many formulae, each “the best”. See an encyclopedia.

=Water wings=—pneumatic aids for swimming learners.

=Wattle weave=—a style of straw hat not easy to describe unless you know what wattle is.

=Waukenphast=—a sort of orthopedic shoe.

=Waulking=—a finishing process in the manufacture of Harris tweeds and other homespun woolens of British crofting localities: the cloth after weaving being laid out on long tables or boards, soap and water liberally poured on and the cloth vigorously pommeled by hand until sufficiently fulled or thickened, after which it is washt in clear, cold, running water, and is then ready for the market.

=Wax=—general term for various waxes used in the trades, as beesw., shoemaker’s w., etc.

=Wax calf=—calfskin tanned and finisht for upper leather, on the flesh side.

=Wax cloth=—trade term for waterproof fabrics treated by a paraffin process.

=Wax-end=—in shoemaking, a stout thread or its end, made stiff and pointed with wax or waxed and twisted with a bristle.

=Wearables=—clothes; wearing apparel.

=Weather test=—see Exposure t.

=Weatherproof=—rainproof.

=Weaving=—the mechanical process of manufacturing textil fabrics from yarns or threads. Very interesting and important but too complicated for the limited scope of this concise book—consult some good encyclopedia or work on textil processes and then get permission to go thru a mill.

=Web thumb=—trade term for a flexible connecting piece between t. and forefinger of baseball gloves. See Fielder’s glove.

=Wedding outfit=—a collection of sartorial elegance that one expends much pains to acquire and later wonders why he did it.

=Wedding ring=—equivalent to the “sold” tickets placed on furniture in the shops; custom permits men to wear them as well as women—but few are brave enough.

=Wedge heels=—see Spring h.

=Weeds=—mourning.

=Weft=—the woof or filling of a fabric; the threads that cross the warp from selvage to selvage.

=Weichsel=—aromatic cherry wood, used for canes, umbrella handles, cigar holders, etc.

=Weight=—in piece goods the number of ounces a yard of material weighs. See Winter w., Spring w., Summer w., Tropical w., Fall w.

=Weighted silk=—s. that in dyeing has been so weighted or loaded with superfluous heavy chemicals, gums, etc., as to weigh considerably more than before dyeing. Compare Pure dye. See Weighting.

=Weighted silk test=—apply lighted match and if flame continues a few seconds after removal of match, silk is w.

=Weighting=—in silk dyeing the process of surcharging the yarn or fabric with gums, mineral matter, etc., for the purpose of making the goods seem stout and heavy; also called loading.

=Welfare work=—name felicitously applied to polite intermeddling in employes’ affairs by large corporations; a sort of paternalism that stimulates an artificial interest in the business and a covert study of how to break the golden rule; a variant of the living-in system of English shop assistants; also a variant of our modern slum settlement work.

=Well-brusht=—clean, neat, presentable. (=W.-brushed.=)

=Wellington boot=—a tight-fitting b. of fine leather, the tops usually of morocco, hugging the calf closely and coming to a point in front and there finisht with a small colored silk tassel; a style of the early part of the last century.

=Wellington cloak=—a military style of cape, such as is latterly worn by mounted policemen.

=Wellington frock=—the single-breasted f. coat of 1818; perhaps the first of modern coats cut with a waist seam.

=Wellington hat=—a U. S. military h. of early in the 19th century, long, narrow, high, with a small tassel or roset on the two extreme points of the turned-up brim.

=Wellington trousers=—see Pantaloon t.

=Wellingtons=—see above.

=Welt=—in tailoring (1) a strip of material seamed to a pocket opening as a finishing as well as strengthening device; (2) a raised or swelled lap seam; (3) a covered cord or ornamental strip sewed on a border or along a seam. In knitting (1) a flap knitted separately and then joined to the main fabric by looping or hand knitting, as the heel piece of a stocking; (2) a ribbed piece forming the finishing end, as of a sleeve or sock, to prevent rolling. In glove making (1) a piece fastened on the edge of a seam; (2) a sewed on hem-finish at the wrist of a glove. In shoemaking a strip of leather set into the seam between the edges of the upper and outer sole, thru which they are sewed together. See Goodyear w., McKay sewed, W. sole, etc.

=Welt cutter=—a machine for notching welts for boots and shoes to make them lie smoothly in position.

=Welt leather=—any l. fit for making shoe welts; usually the shoulder ends of hides.

=Welt machine=—a m. for cutting leather into strips to be used as shoe welts.

=Welt seam=—in tailoring a lapt s. with the top edge turned under thus raising or swelling it; a raised or swelled s.

=Welt seam=—(glove term) an inseam (qv) with a strip of leather between the join acting as a protector to the stitches, used only on working gloves of very stout leathers.

=Welt sole=—(1) a name used for designating a particular method of attaching the outer s. to a shoe; that is, the s. is stitcht to a w. and the w. to the inner sole and upper; (2) a shoe made by the w. process. There are various methods of using a w.; Goodyear w. being the best known; Mock w. being an imitation of the Goodyear process; McKay w. being a process where the McKay method of attaching the outer s. is used in connection with a w. in imitation of the Goodyear process.

=Welted pocket=—a p. without a covering flap finisht with a sewed-on strip or welt and stitcht to match the edges and seams.

=Welting=—the process in modern shoe making following that of lasting—the surplus leather being trimmed off, the shank tackt in place, the bottom filled with cork (if at all) and the sole put on. See Welt sole.

=West-of-England=—trade term for extra fine dress worsteds, broadcloths, etc.; properly from woolen manufacturing towns in the west of England. (Bradford, Huddersfield, Leeds, etc.)

=West Point overcoat=—one of the many names applied to an ulster-like coat brought out during the winter of 1907–08—both single and double-breasted, buttoning to the throat, with a high Prussian collar.

=West Point uniform=—see Cadet u.

=Western Union messenger’s uniform=—see Telegraph m. u.

=Wether wool=—all clippings subsequent to the first clip from the young sheep. See Lamb’s w.

=Weybosset=—one of the oldest American woolen mills, at one time famous for its original patterns in cloths, which were in great demand and widely copied.

=Whale fin=—one of the trade names for whalebone.

=Whalebone=—a horny substance from the throat of the whale, used as stiffening in corsets, etc.

=Whangee=—any of several varieties of bamboo (Chinese and Japanese) used for walking sticks.

=What-d’ye-call-’ems=—colloquial for drawers, breeches, and the like.

=Wheel piece=—an extra p. patcht on to the plait-side of the skirt of a frock coat, necessitated by inability to cut the pattern whole from narrow width goods, the seam being concealed in the folds or plaits; once a common expedient, but now with double-width goods seldom, if ever, necessary.

=Wheeling=—a process for indenting a fancy figuring or line around the heel of a shoe or for indenting a conventional figure or line on the bottom of a shoe as one of the finishing processes. See Heel seat w.

=Wherewithal=—vernacular for the means of purchasing, etc.; money.

=Whipcord=—a worsted fabric with rounded cords or ribs extending diagonally across the surface; usually dyed in plain colors or woven in mixtures of oxford, tan with white, etc.

=Whipping the cat=—up to about 50 years ago or thereabout it was the practise of country tailors to go about from house to house and from town to town and cut and make on the premises such clothing as the household needed, usually from the homespun cloth made by the housewives. This was called “whipping the cat”.

=Whipstitch=—to sew the edge of a fabric or a seam with long, wrapping stitches; to overcast.

=Whisk=—small, short-handled clothes-broom.

=White cap=—(=army=) for officers, of white linen or white duck, conforming to the pattern of the service c., with a band of white braid, and with visor, strap, buttons as prescribed for dress c.; no badge; for enlisted men, same as for officers, omitting the white braid; (=marine corps=) for all officers, of white duck, of same pattern as undress c., trimmed with white braid, the base of the c. to a depth of one-quarter inch all around to be of dark blue cloth.

=White coat=—(=army=) for all officers, a c. of white linen duck or other material, cut and made after the same (general) pattern as the (blue) dress c. (qv), the braid trimming being also white; for enlisted men, a single-breasted sack c. of bleacht cotton duck, of regulation pattern, with collar ornaments as for dress c.

=White dress coat=—(=navy=) for chief petty officers, except bandmaster, and for officer’s stewards and officer’s cooks: of bleacht cotton drill of pattern prescribed for blue coats of the several ratings, unlined, with patch pockets without flaps; for bandsmen, the same as for enlisted men of the marine corps.

=White evening dress coat=—(=navy=) see Evening d. c.

=White gold=—an alloy of 5 parts of silver to one of gold.

=White goods=—general trade term embracing all white cotton and linen fabrics; also staple articles of apparel in white.

=White helmet=—(=marine corps=)—for all officers, non-commissioned officers, drummers, trumpeters and privates, same as standard sample in quartermaster’s office; with special full dress and full dress, the spike and spike base will be worn; with undress or field uniforms the ventilator top only. No corps device.

=White lapel=—nickname for a lieutenant in the English navy, alluding to the w. lapels formerly worn on the coat.

=White rose=—a perfume sufficiently explained by its name.

=White service coat=—(=navy=) for officers, similar in cut and fit to the blue s. c., of white linen duck, bleacht cotton twill, or other suitable material, without braid trimming, and buttoning thru with 5 large, gilt navy buttons (except for chaplains, which are white), and having on each breast a buttoned patch pocket; appropriate shoulder marks per rank.

=White service dress=—(=navy=) a uniform to be worn at all times not otherwise provided for, and instead of other uniform in hot weather, on occasions of ceremony, when offense would not thereby be given, if prescribed by the senior officer present. Consists of, for all commissioned officers and midshipmen, w. s. coat, w. trousers, w. cap (or helmet), shoulder marks; for warrant officers, mates and clerks, the same without shoulder marks.

=White trousers=—(=army=) for officers, of same material as coat, without stripe, welt or cord; for enlisted men: of bleacht cotton duck without stripes.

=White undress coat=—(=marine corps=) see Undress c.

=White uniform=—(=army=) worn by all officers, dismounted, when authorized by the commanding officer, but not on occasions of duty with troops; consists of w. coat, w. trousers, w. cap, w. canvas or black leather shoes; for enlisted men, dismounted, worn when prescribed by commanding officer for off-duty wear, but not on dress occasions: w. coat, w. trousers, w. cap, w. canvas or black leather shoes.

=White wax=—bleacht beeswax.

=White working dress=—(=navy=) see Working d.

=Whitecaps=—a sort of vigilance committee, robed in white with white caps on their nocturnal morality raids.

=Whitewings=—a piccadilly shirt collar. See Wing collar.

=Whitewings=—a name given to the white uniformed street cleaners organized in New York by Col. Waring and now copied by many large cities.

=Whiting=—British for bleaching.

=Whitney=—(1) a heavy, coarse, sturdy woolen stuff of 18th century, used for coats, breeches, etc.; (2) a soft bodied overcoat cloth, resembling chinchilla but with the face tufted in transverse ridges.

=Whitney long=—same as Whitney (2) but with the face tufting running longitudinally instead of transversely.

=Whole back=—tailoring term indicating (1) a coat made with a b. in one piece, without seams, (2) the backpart of a frock coat cut in one piece (without a center seam and not stubbed or cut across), the skirts of which may be open or closed. Compare Frock b., Stubbed b., Step b., False b. Skirt.

=Whole falls=—see Broad f.

=Whole-sole=—to put entire new (lower) soles to a worn shoe, boot, etc.

=Whole vamp=—see Long v.

=Wholesale=—selling in quantity, to retailers; jobbing.

=Whytlaw=—general trade term for fine shirting ginghams, madrasses, etc., manufactured by R. A. Whytlaw, Son & Co., Glasgow, Scotland.

=Wide-awake=—a soft, broad-brimmed, felt hat.

=Wide wale=—general name for flat-twilled close finisht worsted suitings with warpwise or diagonal wales or flat ribs, often quite wide. Compare Narrow w.

=Widower’s weeds=—equivocal manifestations of uxorial grief.

=Wig=—an arrangement of false hair for concealing baldness or for the supposed adornment of the head; origin lost in antiquity. From the time of Louis XIII until nearly the close of the 18th century gentlemen could not or would not appear without one. In those days wigs were of innumerable sizes and shapes and bore descriptiv names, those of England and colonial America being often whimsical and, to us now, grotesque, as: Adonis, allonge, beau peruke, bob, brigadier, campaign, club, cut-w., corded wolf’s paw, Count Saxe’s mode, giddy feathertop, Gregorian, grave full-bottom, Grecian fly, Jansenist, lavant, lawyer’s long tail, fox-tail, full-bottom, feathertop, macaroni toupee, major, minor, neck lock, scratch, spinach seed, she-dragon, snail back, Ramillies, tie, twist, royal bird, tuck, wild boar’s back, vallancy, dalmahoy, rhinoceros, Tyburn, cauliflower, curley roys, minister’s bob, airy levants, etc. Wigs are still worn on the English bench and by the speaker of the House of Commons.

=Wigan=—a very stiff, open, canvas interlining material used by tailors for stiffening and giving shape to flies, cuffs, vest-fronts, collars, etc. Also spelt wiggin, wigging, etc.

=Willeying=—a mechanical process for untangling and cleaning wool fleece. (Fr. name of the inventor.)

=Willie=—too good to live.

=Willow pattern=—an effect in straw hat braids, so woven as to resemble a willow basket in texture, tho much finer, of course.

=Willowing=—see Willeying.

=Willowing machine=—a machine for cleaning and opening textil fibers and wools preparatory to the spinning processes. Also called opening m. and devil.

=Wilsonia magnetic hat=—a h. that had a tremendous vogue during the third quarter (?) of the last century because supposed to be infallible as a cure for headache, neuralgia, etc., owing to small strips of magnetised steel sewed to a cloth band which was attacht to the h. inside the leather sweat-lining. (Name from that of the manufacturer?)

=Wincey=—a cloth, plain or twilled, usually with a cotton warp and wool filling.

=Wind muff=—see W. shield.

=Wind shield=—a silk or light rubber part sewed to the lining of a coat sleeve near the cuff, with an elastic or drawing cord to make it fit snugly to the wrist for the purpose of excluding wind while automobiling, etc.

=Window garments=—generally speaking, g. that are much better than the g. actually delivered to the customer; a favorit device of the “cheap tailor” for attracting trade, being made almost invariably by highly paid journeymen tailors, and representing in the case of coats a cost from $8 to $15 for making alone, against say $2.50 to $5 that it would cost the tailor himself to produce in his own shops; naturally such coats are not for sale, except at the end of the season, and then for as much as they will bring; the readymade clothier also occasionally indulges in this practice—the really fashionable tailor almost never, as he seldom has show windows and as seldom advertises; besides his everyday g. are as good in workmanship and usually superior in style.

=Window of the sole=—proprietary term for a paper label attacht by its edges to the center of a shoe s., on the outside, the space beneath not being stained, while the rest of the s. is both stained and polisht; removal of the “window” covering exposing and attesting the quality of the leather; a trade mark of the Regal Shoe Co.

=Window trimmer=—a man who generally understands the psychology of attracting attention.

=Windsor cap=—a fur c. with a high, full, round crown and a wide, rolling band, high at rear and sloping to a short, rolled peak in front.

=Windsor leather=—a straight-grained, stampt l. used for hand luggage.

=Windsor tie=—affected by would-be bohemians and forced upon helpless children such as would-be little Lords Fauntleroy.

=Wine stiff=—trade term for felt hats stiffened by a preparation of alcohol. See Water s.

=Wing collar=—a standing shirt c. with triangular, turned back points or wings; also known as Piccadilly and “white wings”.

=Wing tip=—an ornamental tip on a shoe, which instead of being cut off at right angles or in a straight line as ordinary tips, is carried back along the sides.

=Wining=—in hat making the act or process of putting a solution of shellac upon the edge of a brim to re-enforce or harden same.

=Winter mink=—m. caught in the cold winter months; the finest quality. Compare Spring m.

=Winter tan=—any extra stout t. leather used for heavy footwear, particularly storm boots.

=Winter weight=—in the woolens trades suitings of 16 to 20 ounces and overcoatings of 24 to 30 ounces to the yard are so known. Compare Spring w., Fall w., Summer w., Tropical w.

=Wipe=—a handkerchief.

=Wiping in=—the process of shaping the toe or other parts of a shoe by means of iron wipers or grippers.

=Witch=—the shed motion of a loom. See Dobbie.

=Witney=—a heavy cloth. See Whitney.

=Woad=—(1) an herb of the mustard family (esatis tinctoria), used by the ancient Britons for staining their bodies and later by dyers as a dye and as a ferment; (2) the blue dye obtained from the leaves of the plant but now almost entirely superseded by indigo, with which, however, it is occasionally mixt to promote fermentation.

=Woaded=—dyed or tattooed with woad.

=Wombat=—an Australian animal, somewhat like a small bear.

=Wood silk=—a textil fiber produced by chemical treatment of wood pulp, making yarns of good strength and great brilliancy and softness, permanent except against the action of water. See Artificial s.

=Wood yarn=—cellulose fiber converted into flat strips of requisit thickness and width and then spun into textil y., sometimes alone and sometimes, for greater strength, around a minute cotton thread, forming the material known as Xylolin (qv). This y. can be woven into almost any fabric or form, such as dress and clothing fabrics, bathing suits, underwear, imitation Panama hats, carpets, bagging, draperies, etc. It is washable and cleanable, and is not especially combustible.

=Woof=—(1) the threads that cross the warp in weaving; the weft or filling; (2) a term sometimes used to indicate finisht cloth or textures.

=Wool=—the fleece of sheep; used for textil and similar purposes. In grading the shorn staple the most common practise is to classify it into three grand divisions, to wit: (1) carding or clothing w. (also called “short staple” [2 to 4 inches long]), such as merino, having special felting properties; (2) combing w. (also called “long staple” [4 to 10 inches long]), in which length of staple is first consideration and felting properties are not desired, being appropriate for hardspun worsted yarns; (3) miscellaneous, a grouping of long, strong, coarse w. suitable for blankets, carpets (sometimes known by these and other names), coarse clothing, etc. These, again, are subdivided into the following grades:

XX Combing, or the very finest, 6 inches and above in length.
No. 1 Combing, or 2d. finest, 6 inches and above in length.
No. 2 Combing, or 3d. finest, 6 inches and above in length.
Braid Combing, or coarse hair, 6 inches and above in length.
Fine No. 1, medium stapled, 5 to 6 inches in length.
Medium or No. 2, 5 to 6 inches in length.
Carding No. 1 and Kid, less than 5 inches in length.

Short staple wools are also known as picklock (finest), prime, choice, super, head, seconds, abb and breech or livery; long staple or worsted wools are also classed as fine, blue, neat, brown, breach, downright, seconds, abb. Wools are further graded according to the parts of the body from which sheared, the physical condition of the fleece (as common hair, dead, kemp, crossbreed, ½ blood, ¼ blood, etc.), the country where produced (as Australian, territory, Oregon, Ohio), etc. The manufacturer in turn makes from fifteen to twenty or more sorts, according to the kind of yarn and goods he produces, and each mill has its own standard and nomenclature. Short staple wools are the finest and long staple the coarsest. The value of combing hair increases with every inch of length, other conditions being equal. The scope of this work does not permit an extended treatis (which the subject merits)—so you had better consult some authoritativ book on wools and weaving, or some good encyclopedia.

=Wool backt=—a worsted fabric, of typical worsted face, but with a backing of w., the pattern not going thru; plated. See Thru-and-thru. (=W. backed.=)

=Wool clip=—one season’s c. or shearing of w.

=Wool dyed=—d. in the w. before making into cloth. Compare Ingrain dye.

=Wool extract=—see Extract w.

=Wool felt=—hatter’s term for felts (and hats thereof) made from sheep’s w. The process said to have been discovered by St. Clement, who, while on a pilgrimage, pluckt a handful of w. from a sheep by the wayside and placed it in his sandals; the action of walking and heat from his feet formed the w. into a compact mass.

=Wool-in-the-grease=—(1) uncleaned w.; (2) a clip.

=Wool seal=—a heavier and more hairy pelt than the fur s., used for less expensiv garments. Also the hide of this species of seal furnishes the leather and fur pocketbooks, belts, bags, etc. Compare Fur s.

=Wool shears=—a tool very much like lawn (grass) shears.

=Wool sorter’s disease=—a kind of blood poisoning from infected w., probably anthrax.

=Woolenet=—a light-weight woolen fabric.

=Woolens=—general name for cloths made of carded wool in contradistinction to worsteds (of combed w.); usually soft woven.

=Work-in=—see Hold in.

=Working coat=—(1) a weatherproof sack c., either single or double-breasted, worn in place of both suit-coat and overcoat; usually of leather, canvas, corduroy, etc., (2) a jumper.

=Working dress=—(=navy=) attire prescribed to be worn by details of men or others engaged in work for which it may be necessary. For all but ordinary enlisted men, both blue and white w. d. is the same as blue and white undress, but the w. d. prescribed for “all other enlisted men” may be drawn and worn during work such as requires it; for all other enlisted men: blue w. d., blue w. jumper, blue cloth or flannel trousers, blue cap, no neckerchief nor knife lanyard. White w. d.: same as white undress, but old clothes may be worn.

=Working jumper=—(=navy=) same as undress j. (qv), but made of dark blue flannel.

=Working shoe=—any stout s. of coarse leather, usually on the brogan order.

=World-beater=—term of real or assumed enthusiasm employed by some salespeople, advertisement writers, et al., in commendation of really or fictionally exceptional values or merchandising “events”.

=Worumbo=—general term for men’s wear fabrics, especially chinchilla overcoatings, made by the Worumbo Mfg. Co., Lisbon Falls, Me.

=Worsteds=—general name for fabrics constructed of combed wool; usually hard woven and variously finisht.

=Wrap=—a sort of hold-all in which various kinds of luggage may be packt or wrapt.

=Wrap-rascal=—a close-buttoned jocky coat with large metal buttons. See also Joseph.

=Wrapper=—(1) any loose flowing outer garment, as a dressing gown (term now almost entirely confined to women’s wear); (2) an infant’s undershirt of the button-down-the-front variety.

=Wrappers=—leggings.

=Wrapping stitch=—a loose s. binding edges and seams; an overcast s.; a whip s.

=Wrinkle=—a pucker or crease; sign of bad tailoring or careless wear.

=Wrist support=—a leather band with strap to prevent spraining the w., worn by baseball players, draymen, etc.

=Wristband=—(1) specifically, the narrow band that terminates a shirt sleeve; (2) a short or narrow cuff.

=Wristfall=—a falling band or ruff once worn about the wrist.

=Wristler=—a knitted band worn on the wrist for warmth.

=Wristlet=—same as Wristler.