Chapter X (1)

=Xylolin=—a new textil material made in Saxony, consisting of narrow strips of light paper and cotton or wool spun and woven into a cream-colored cloth fabric. So cheap that a complete plain suit of men’s clothes may be produced from it for as little as three dollars. It is claimed that this fabric can be washt repeatedly without injury to the surface.

Y

=Yacht cloth=—a light, fine twill woven woolen cloth, finisht with a roughish surface and dyed in plain colors; a sort of heavy flannel.

=Yacht hat=—see Boater.

=Yachting cap=—a style of cloth c. with a full crown and a small peak or visor.

=Yachting shoe=—commonly, a low-cut leather or canvas s. with wedge heels and rubber soles.

=Yankee cap=—a cloth c. having a flat or round crown and a closely sticht brim turned straight up behind and down in front (tho the back may be dropt for storm wear); devised for automobiling.

=Yankee notions=—small labor saving contrivances, toilet or dress adjuncts, etc.; anything you can think of; term more used in England than here.

=Yard-and-a-quarter-stick=—very useful in the clothing and tailoring trades.

=Yard stick=—if full length, 36 inches long.

=Yard-wide=—36 inches, of course.

=Yarn=—thread for knitting or weaving.

=Yarn-dyed=—see Skein dyes.

=Ylang ylang=—“flower of flowers”; a perfume derived from or in imitation of the flowers of a Malayan tree of the custard-apple family.

=Yoke=—a band or cross-piece to which other parts of a garment are attacht.

=Yoke coat=—a coat made with a yoke back or front, or both.

=Yolk=—the fatty or greasy matter contained in wool; also called suint.

Z

=Zanella=—a variety of cotton-warp worsted serge used for coat linings, umbrella coverings, etc.

=Zebra stripes=—one of 1907’s foolishnesses in men’s wear woolens—simply, any stark, staring stripe.

=Zerape=—see Serape.

=Zero collar=—proprietary name for a very deep variety of ulster c.

=Zouave cap=—a sort of fez.

=Zouave jacket=—a short j. or blouse reaching about to the waist, and cut away in front.

=Zouave trousers=—bloomers!

=Zouave uniform=—you’ve just read it!

=Zuchetta=—a small, round, clerical skull cap of silk or velvet, covering the tonsure, and of color suited to the wearer’s rank.

Addenda[1]

Footnote 1:

New definitions, afterthoughts, omissions, and the like.

=Adonisbelt=—proprietary name for a sort of suspensory bandage, so that a man, drest a la Henrydixeyadonis, may have his trousers cut “no dress”.

=Arms=—bearings or devices which a person is (or assumes to be) entitled to emblazon upon his escutcheon; something that, like forbidden fruit, is shamelessly coveted (or manufactured) in democratic America.

=Back scye=—the back part of the scye. See Scye and Front of scye.

=Bagman=—British for traveling salesman.

=Bandoline=—a gummy preparation for plastering or glossing the hair.

=Bar coat=—see Bartender’s c.

=Bartender’s coat=—a short jacket, usually of white duck and buttoned to the neck.

=Belwarp=—a name given to English worsteds of peculiar formation, having some resemblance to chain-weave worsteds.

=Blouse collar=—same as Prussian c.

=Blunt corners=—not coming to a point but given a short rounding, as lapel edges, wing (shirt) collars, etc.

=Body belt=—same as Waist b.

=Bosom shirt=—a s. with a shield or built-up bosom.

=Bottom-fulness=—tailoring term for amplitude of skirt, as in a frock coat; belled.

=Box sack=—a loose, boxy sack coat, usually double-breasted, with a long roll and wide button-spread.

=Breadth=—width; a “breadth” of goods is its square, “two breadths” twice its width (in length), and so on.

=Busby cord=—a sort of aigulet attacht to a busby cap, worn draped over the shoulder.

=Business cutaway=—same as Walking frock and English walking frock.

=Button-spread=—the distance between buttons horizontally, on a double-breasted coat.

=Buttoned oxford=—a buttoned low shoe. See Oxford tie.

=Cabbage=—tailoring slang meaning the amount of material a “jour” can save of the silk thread, tape, linings, etc., given him for the making of a garment, such savings or surpluses being, by custom, regarded as his perquisites and which he quietly “cabbages” (or keeps), whence name.

=Calves=—pre-requisite to the dignified wearing of knee breeches and the chief reason why artistic dress reform invariably fails.

=Cap cover=—a detachable c. for a cap, protectiv or otherwise.

=Captain-general’s coat=—see Knights Templar uniform.

=Cat-stitch=—a crost s. on edges to prevent raveling. See Serging.

=Chin-scale= (=s=)—a chin strap of linkt metal plates or scales, as with certain military caps.

=Cielette=—a name for one of numerous processes of waterproofing woolens, worsteds, etc.

=Clad=—drest.

=Clerical cloak=—a long cape-like overgarment with collar, but without sleeves, buttoned down the front.

=Coat of arms=—originally, a surcoat charged with heraldic devices; hence, the armorial bearings, collectivly, of any person.

=Collar stand=—see Stand.

=Congress gaiter=—same as C. shoe.

=Crest=—(1) modernly, a plume, pompon, tuft, etc., on a uniform cap or hat; (2) in heraldry, a warrior’s device, usually supported upon a wreath or coronet.

=D’Elia indicator=—see Tailoring i. (D’Elia, inventor.)

=Escutcheon=—a shield shaped surface for armorial bearings.

=Everstick=—proprietary name for a make of semi-invisible rubber overshoes so contrived as to cling closely to the edges of the sole of a shoe without covering the uppers in front, but covering the entire heel.

=Exaggerated=—in tailoring meaning made larger than is actually necessary to give a clean fit.

=Extension heel=—see E. sole.

=Extension sole=—in shoemaking, a s. that extends or projects out considerably from the uppers, giving a broad tread.

=False back skirt=—in tailoring, the s. of a frock coat made with a whole back and to which an extra piece of goods has been attacht to the right skirt beneath the opening so there will be no gaping when the skirts spread. Compare Frock b., Whole b., Step b., Stubbed b.

=Field=—the top of a uniform cap.

=First-over=—tailoring term, meaning strap measurement (qv); the first measurement over the shoulder.

=Footless stocking=—a s. made without a foot, but with a retaining strap or band reaching beneath the foot; once a favorit s. with bicyclers who usually wore a light cotton sock beneath, if the footless s. was of wool or tickly worsted. Also called strap-ends, in the trade.

=Footman’s coatee=—a frock coat shaped somewhat like an evening dress coat but of livery cloth and with shorter skirts which are prest flat and have full length side edges; the fronts meet at the end of the roll and are closed with loopt buttons.

=Frock back=—tailor’s term for the b. of a frock coat made with a center seam and open skirts. Compare Stubbed b., Whole b., Step b., False b., Skirt.

=Front of scye=—meaning obvious. Compare Back scye and Scye.

=Full box=—tailoring term for an exaggerated box coat; very full and loose in every way.

=Furnisher=—same as haberdasher.

=Gaiter=—see Congress shoe.

=Gilded youth=—the idol (and eke despair) of multitudinous equivocal ladies and ambitious shopkeepers.

=Gilt edge=—synonym for extra quality.

=Gladstone bag=—a traveling b., usually of leather or imitations thereof, flat sided, taller than its width, hinged at the bottom and opening into equal-sized sides. Also called Railroad b.

=Glottolin=—a German preparation, recently placed on the market, for soothing tender and sensitiv necks; rubbed on a rough-edged collar it will make the collar, it is said, easy and comfortable to wear.

=Gum boots=—vernacular for rubber b.

=Highwater pants=—too short.

=Jimmal ring=—see Gemel r.

=Knights Templar uniform=—the full u. for officers consists of coat and trousers of black cloth, baldric, belt, sword, shoulder straps, gauntlets and plumed chapeau; and frequently a cape or cloak of black beaver. Commanders and past commanders wear gold wherever metal appears, but other officers and Sir Knights wear white except for buttons and shoulder straps, which are of gold—the Prelate alone excepted, whose belt is of black leather, and buttons of black silk or lasting. The Commander, Past Commander, Generalissimo and Captain-General wear a double-breasted military frock coat lined with black.

=Leather goods=—trade term embracing light leather manufactures, such as luggage, pocketbooks, belts, shawl straps and the like, but not applied to shoes, harness, machinery belting and heavy manufactures.

=List=—(1) a price schedule; (2) a price from which a discount is allowed.

=Mackinette=—proprietary name for raincoats. (Not distinctiv.)

=Men’s furnisher=—same as haberdasher.

=Men’s furnishings=—shirts, collars, cuffs, underwear, hosiery, suspenders, neckwear, pyjamas, jewelry, fancy waistcoats, bathrobes, bathing suits, etc.

=Men’s wear=—(1) broadly, anything for men to wear or use as distinguisht from articles or goods for women’s wear; (2) in the woolens trade the heavy suitings, coatings, etc., as distinguisht from the lighter dress goods, cloakings, etc., for women’s wear.

=Muto coat=—proprietary name for an overcoat, recently introduced, convertible from an ordinary dressy street c. into an auto driving or storm c., the feature being a collar which may be adjusted as a stept lapel collar or as a high banded Prussian or cadet collar with coat buttoned to the neck.

=Napkin=—an article of table linen used or misused in a manner indicating one’s breeding.

=Narrow wale=—obviously, the reverse of wide w. (qv); most frequently applied to diagonal suitings of close uniform ribs, whether flat or prominent.

=Netherlings=—humorous (?) for stockings.

=Noose=—only a very small percentage of us ever have to wear one and then but once.

=Past commander’s coat=—(=Masonic=) same as Commander’s c.

=Pickets=—an old word probably meaning the same as picot (qv), of which it seems to be a misspelling.

=Pin ticket=—a device for marking merchandise, samples, etc., with price, size and other memoranda; also more or less (am)usingly left around on chairs, benches, etc.

=Pineapple cloth=—(1) a soft, filmy textil material made from the fibers of the pineapple leaf, and of but little use in men’s wear; (2) another name for a fine thread-about handkerchief linen; also known as shamrock linen.

=Prelate’s coat=—(=Masonic=) see Knights Templar uniforms.

=Raiment=—why, wearing apparel!

=Rainproof=—general term for woolen and worsted coatings, suitings, etc., rendered weatherproof or rain-repellant by any of various processes. See Cravenette.

=Robe=—broadly, a long loose flowing gown worn over other garments, as a judge’s or priest’s r., an academical gown, etc.; more broadly, any kind of a costume used to cover other clothing.

=Rockler=—an old corruption of roquelaure (qv).

=Second-over=—in tailoring, a measurement taken for obtaining the shoulder hight.

=Selling agent=—the accredited representativ (or contractual jobber or middleman) of a mill or factory.

=Sheath coat=—see next.

=Sheath trousers=—one of the idiocies of 1908, ascribable, doubtless, to the hysterical feminin revival of directoire immodesties and their pernicious effect upon some men too invertebrate to uphold the precious responsibilities of their sex.

=Shirr=—to draw into gathers; to give a puckered or drawn effect.

=Shirring string=—a stout tape or cord for drawing a part of a garment or article together in some part or place.

=Short bosom=—a dinky sort of shirt b., supposed to be more comfortable for day wear under a waistcoat, but about as edifying as a flapping dicky when one catches a glimpse of it thru an opened waistcoat.

=Skuffer=—proprietary name for a make of shoes constructed on anatomical lines, having very broad and very heavy (yet flexible) soles and broad, low heels or wedge heels, the innersides of the heels being built to conform to the shape of the human heel and the entire shoe, which is made without nails, moulded into footform.

=Spread=—see Button s.

=Stand=—the inner part of a folded collar (of a coat or shirt) or that portion on which the collar “stands”.

=Store service=—in retailing, a method (any method) of maintaining a high standard of efficiency and esprit du corps among employes, customers also being, in some instances and to a certain extent, taken into the confidence of the house. In general, an effort to prevent mistakes, waste, etc., and adjust such as may happen. A variant of Welfare work (qv).

=Straight leg=—term applied to riding boots having little or no shape to the leg and resembling, above the ankles, flattened cylinders.

=Strap ends=—see Footless stocking.

=Swab=—a wool pompon for a uniform cap, so-called thru resemblance to a gunner’s s.

=Syddo=—a soft, flexible, elastic woolen fabric recently introduced as a substitute for haircloth, claimed to possess certain working advantages for coat fronts, being neither too stiff nor too yielding.

=Tar=—an odoriferous, dark, viscid, oily liquid sometimes applied to the body, after other clothes have been removed, to which a decorativ and protectiv effect is added by means of loose feathers; thus clad one is free to seek sympathy, aid and other clothes wherever they may be had.

=Togards=—proprietary name for a sort of half-foot of stocking material intended for wear inside the stocking to prevent those of thin or sheer texture from wearing out too quickly.

=Tracing braid=—narrow soutache b., used largely for decorating military uniforms, etc.

=Unclad=—nothing on.

=Uric acid test=—a test facetiously proposed during the resist dye-guaranteed dyes agitation of 1908, when woolens and worsteds were subjected to extraordinary tests for permanency; altho a jest, a very practical suggestion.

=Visiting card=—a little bit of pasteboard that causes inconceivable agony to anyone who, having made his pile, tries to break into society.

=Waiter’s jacket=—in the better restaurants (if the dress coat is not compulsory) a sort of mess j. of black cloth or alpaca; in cheaper restaurants a j. of white duck resembling a bartender’s coat.

=Welt flaps=—in tailoring, a welt finish to a pocket, the lower portion being extended and free, like a flap.

Appendix

A BILL OF MATERIALS

To the clothing manufacturer or journeyman tailor this table of materials required for the various garments tells nothing new; but the average retailer of clothes likely knows but little of it; while to the man in the street, the consumer, it is doubtless all news and possibly full of wonderment.

So far as is known, this is the first time such a list has been compiled.

The Cloth Required

Men’s wear woolens, worsteds, etc., are commonly 54 inches wide. These yardages are figured on that basis.

A sack suit requires 3¼ to 3¾ yards. An evening dress suit requires 3¼ to 3¾ yards. A Tuxedo suit requires 3¼ to 3¾ yards. A cutaway frock suit requires 3¼ to 4 yards. A double-breasted frock suit requires 3¼ to 4 yards. A Norfolk jacket and trousers require 3¼ to 3¾ yards. A hunting coat and trousers require 3¾ yards to 4½ yards. A top coat requires 2¼ to 3¼ yards. A Chesterfield overcoat requires 2¾ to 3½ yards. A raincoat requires 3 to 4 yards. An ulster requires 3½ to 4½ yards. A skirted overcoat requires 3½ to 4 yards. Trousers require 1¼ to 1½ yards Hunting and broad fall trousers require 1½ to 2 yards. Riding breeches require 1⅜ to 1¾ yards. Waistcoats, single-breasted, no collar, require ¾ to 1¼ yards 27″ goods. Waistcoats, single-breasted, notch collar, require ⅝ to 1⅜ yards 27″ goods. Waistcoats, double-breasted, no collar, require ⅝ to 1¼ yards 27″ goods. Waistcoats, double-breasted, notch collar, require 1 to 1¾ yards 27″ goods.

Linings, Findings, Etc., Required for Coats

─────────────┬───────┬──────┬───────┬────────┬───────┬────┬──────── │EVENING│TUXEDO│CUTAWAY│ SACK │NORFOLK│TOP │RAINCOAT │ DRESS │ COAT │ OR │ COAT, │JACKET │COAT│ │ COAT │ │WALKING│ SINGLE │ │ │ │ │ │ FROCK │ OR │ │ │ │ │ │ │ DOUBLE │ │ │ │ │ │ │BREASTED│ │ │ ─────────────┼───────┼──────┼───────┼────────┼───────┼────┼──────── Serge, silk │ 2⅛ to │ 2 to │ 2¾ to │2 to 2¾ │ │3 to│3 to 5 y or satin, │ 2¾ y │ 2½ y │ 3½ y │ y │ │5 y │ (b) 30 inches. │ (a) │ (a) │ (a) │ (a) │ │(c) │ ─────────────┼───────┼──────┼───────┼────────┼───────┼────┼──────── Mohair, Serge│ │ │ 2¾ to │2¼ to 2¾│2 to 2¾│ 2¾ │2¾ to 3½ or Alpaca, │ │ │ 3½ y │ y │ y │ to │ y 32 inches. │ │ │ │ │ │3½ y│ (b) ─────────────┼───────┼──────┼───────┼────────┼───────┼────┼──────── Venetian or │ 1⅛ y │ 1 to │ 1½ to │1 to 1½ │1 to 1½│ 1¼ │1 to 1½ Italian │ │ 1½ y │ 1¾ y │ y │ y │ to │ y cloth, 54 │ │ │ │ │ │1½ y│ inches. │ │ │ │ │ │ │ ─────────────┼───────┼──────┼───────┼────────┼───────┼────┼──────── Satin, 27 │ │ │ │ │ │ 2¾ │2¾ to 3 inches. │ │ │ │ │ │ to │ y │ │ │ │ │ │3¼ y│ ─────────────┼───────┼──────┼───────┼────────┼───────┼────┼──────── Silk or satin│ ¾ y │ ¾ y │ ¾ y │ ¾ y │ ¾ y │ │ sleeve │ │ │ │ │ │ │ lining, 40 │ │ │ │ │ │ │ inches. │ │ │ │ │ │ │ ─────────────┼───────┼──────┼───────┼────────┼───────┼────┼──────── Satin sleeve │ │ │ │ │ │ 1½ │1½ to 1¾ lining, 21 │ │ │ │ │ │ to │ y inches. │ │ │ │ │ │1¾ y│ ─────────────┼───────┼──────┼───────┼────────┼───────┼────┼──────── Grosgrain │ ¾ y │⅝ to 1│ │ │ │ │ facing │ │ y │ │ │ │ │ silk. 27 │ │ │ │ │ │ │ inches. │ │ │ │ │ │ │ ─────────────┼───────┼──────┼───────┼────────┼───────┼────┼──────── Canvas. │ ⅝ y │ ⅝ y │ ⅝ y │⅝ to 1 y│ ⅝ y │1 to│1⅜ to 1¾ │ │ │ │ │ │1¼ y│ y ─────────────┼───────┼──────┼───────┼────────┼───────┼────┼──────── Haircloth. 18│ ½ y │ ½ y │ ½ y │ ½ y │ ½ y │½ y │ ½ y inches. │ │ │ │ │ │ │ ─────────────┼───────┼──────┼───────┼────────┼───────┼────┼──────── Silesia, │ ½ y │ ½ y │ ½ y │ ½ y │ ½ y │½ y │ ½ y (pocketing,│ │ │ │ │ │ │ etc.) │ │ │ │ │ │ │ ─────────────┼───────┼──────┼───────┼────────┼───────┼────┼──────── Canvas stay. │ ⅙ y │ ⅙ y │ ⅙ y │ ⅙ y │ ⅙ y │⅙ y │ ⅙ y ─────────────┼───────┼──────┼───────┼────────┼───────┼────┼──────── Pocket stay, │ 1–9 y │1–9 y │ 1–9 y │ 1–9 y │ 1–9 y │1–9 │ 1–9 y (Holland.) │ │ │ │ │ │ y │ ─────────────┼───────┼──────┼───────┼────────┼───────┼────┼──────── Sleeve wigan.│ ⅙ y │ ⅙ y │ ⅙ y │ ⅙ y │ ⅙ y │⅙ y │ ⅙ y ─────────────┼───────┼──────┼───────┼────────┼───────┼────┼──────── Felt. │ ⅙ y │ ⅙ y │ ⅙ y │ ⅙ y │ ⅙ y │⅙ y │ ⅙ y ─────────────┼───────┼──────┼───────┼────────┼───────┼────┼──────── Stay tape. │5 to 7 │ 5 y │5 to 8 │5 to 8 y│ 5 y │6 to│8 to 10 │ y │ │ y │ │ │10 y│ y ─────────────┼───────┼──────┼───────┼────────┼───────┼────┼──────── Collar │ ⅙ y │ ⅙ y │ ⅙ y │ ⅙ y │ ⅙ y │⅙ y │ ⅙ y canvas. │ │ │ │ │ │ │ ─────────────┼───────┼──────┼───────┼────────┼───────┼────┼──────── Collar │ │ │ │ │ │⅙ y │ ⅙ y velvet. │ │ │ │ │ │ │ ─────────────┼───────┼──────┼───────┼────────┼───────┼────┼──────── Pocketing │ │ │ │ │ │⅓ y │ ⅓ y velvet. │ │ │ │ │ │ │ ─────────────┼───────┼──────┼───────┼────────┼───────┼────┼──────── Buttonhole │ 6 y │ 6 y │ 6 y │ 6 y │ 6 y │6 y │ 6 p twist. │ (d) │ (d) │ (d) │ (d) │ (d) │(d) │ (d) ─────────────┼───────┼──────┼───────┼────────┼───────┼────┼──────── Button │ 2 sk │ 2 sk │ 2 sk │ 2 sk │ 2 sk │2 sk│ 2 sk thread, │ │ │ │ │ │ │ (linen.) │ │ │ │ │ │ │ ─────────────┼───────┼──────┼───────┼────────┼───────┼────┼──────── │ 8 l │ 4 s │ 8 l │2 to 6 l│4 to 6 │4 l │ 4 l Buttons. │1 link │1 link│4 to 6 │4 to 8 s│ l │4 s │ 4 s │4 to 6 │ │ s │ │4 to 8 │ │ │ s │ │ │ │ s │ │ ─────────────┼───────┼──────┼───────┼────────┼───────┼────┼──────── Wadding. │ 1 │ 1 │ 1 │ 1 │ 1 │ 1 │ 1 (sheets.) │ │ │ │ │ │ │ ─────────────┼───────┼──────┼───────┼────────┼───────┼────┼──────── Wool serge │ │ │ │ │ │ │ lining. │ │ │ │ │ │ │ ─────────────┴───────┴──────┴───────┴────────┴───────┴────┴────────

─────────────┬────────────┬──────┬────────┬───────── │CHESTERFIELD│ULSTER│ DOUBLE │ SKIRTED │ OVERCOAT │ │BREASTED│OVERCOATS │ │ │ FROCK │ │ │ │ │ │ │ │ │ │ │ │ │ ─────────────┼────────────┼──────┼────────┼───────── Serge, silk │ 5 to 7 y │6 to 8│2¾ to 3½│6 to 8 y or satin, │ (c) │ y │ y │ (c) 30 inches. │ │ (c) │ (c) │ ─────────────┼────────────┼──────┼────────┼───────── Mohair, Serge│ 3 to 5 y │4 to 6│2¾ to 3½│ or Alpaca, │ │ y │ y │ 32 inches. │ │ │ │ ─────────────┼────────────┼──────┼────────┼───────── Venetian or │ 1¼ to 2 y │1¾ to │1½ to 2 │2 to 2½ y Italian │ │ 2½ y │ y │ cloth, 54 │ │ │ │ inches. │ │ │ │ ─────────────┼────────────┼──────┼────────┼───────── Satin, 27 │ 3 to 5 y │6 to 8│ │6 to 8 y inches. │ │ y │ │ │ │ │ │ ─────────────┼────────────┼──────┼────────┼───────── Silk or satin│ │ │ ¾-y │ sleeve │ │ │ │ lining, 40 │ │ │ │ inches. │ │ │ │ ─────────────┼────────────┼──────┼────────┼───────── Satin sleeve │ 1½ to 1¾ y │1½ to │ │1½ to 1¾ lining, 21 │ │ 1¾ y │ │ y inches. │ │ │ │ ─────────────┼────────────┼──────┼────────┼───────── Grosgrain │ │ │ ¾ y │ facing │ │ │ │ silk. 27 │ │ │ │ inches. │ │ │ │ ─────────────┼────────────┴──────┼────────┼───────── Canvas. │ Length of Coats │ ⅝ y │ 1 y │ │ │ ─────────────┼────────────┬──────┼────────┼───────── Haircloth. 18│ ⅝ y │ ⅝ y │ ½ y │ ½ y inches. │ │ │ │ ─────────────┼────────────┼──────┼────────┼───────── Silesia, │ ½ y │ ½ y │ ½ y │ ½ y (pocketing,│ │ │ │ etc.) │ │ │ │ ─────────────┼────────────┼──────┼────────┼───────── Canvas stay. │ ⅙ y │ ⅙ y │ ⅙ y │ ⅙ y ─────────────┼────────────┼──────┼────────┼───────── Pocket stay, │ 1–9 y │ ¼ y │ 1–9 y │ 1–9 y (Holland.) │ │ │ │ ─────────────┼────────────┼──────┼────────┼───────── Sleeve wigan.│ ⅙ y │ ⅙ y │ ⅙ y │ ⅙ y ─────────────┼────────────┼──────┼────────┼───────── Felt. │ ⅙ y │ ⅙ y │ ⅙ y │ ⅙ y ─────────────┼────────────┼──────┼────────┼───────── Stay tape. │ 8 to 10 y │ 8 to │8 to 10 │8 to 10 y │ │ 10 y │ y │ ─────────────┼────────────┼──────┼────────┼───────── Collar │ ⅙ y │⅙ to ¼│ ⅙ y │ ⅙ y canvas. │ │ y │ │ ─────────────┼────────────┼──────┼────────┼───────── Collar │ ⅙ y │ │ │ ⅙ y velvet. │ │ │ │ ─────────────┼────────────┼──────┼────────┼───────── Pocketing │ ⅓ y │ ⅓ y │ │ ⅓ y velvet. │ │ │ │ ─────────────┼────────────┼──────┼────────┼───────── Buttonhole │ 6 y │ 12 y │ 6 y │ 12 y twist. │ (d) │ (d) │ (d) │ (d) ─────────────┼────────────┼──────┼────────┼───────── Button │ 2 sk │ 3 sk │ 2 sk │ 3 sk thread, │ │ │ │ (linen.) │ │ │ │ ─────────────┼────────────┼──────┼────────┼───────── │ 4 l │ 8 l │ 8 l │4 to 8 l Buttons. │ 4 s │ 9 s │ 6 s │ 6 s │ │ │ │ │ │ │ │ ─────────────┼────────────┼──────┼────────┼───────── Wadding. │ 1 │ 1 │ 1 │ 1 (sheets.) │ │ │ │ ─────────────┼────────────┼──────┼────────┼───────── Wool serge │ │1¾ to │ │ lining. │ │ 2½ y │ │ ─────────────┴────────────┴──────┴────────┴─────────

Abbreviations: y - yard; l - large; s - small; sk - skein;

Notes: (a) includes back for waistcoat; (b) lined to the waist; if
lined thruout add 1¾ yards extra; (c) includes sleeve lining; (d)
single thread measure.

Linings, Etc., Required for Waistcoats

Silk or satin lining for back, 30″, ⅝ yard; Venetian or Italian cloth
⅝ yard;

Mohair, serge or alpaca ⅝ yard.

Sateen, 40″, ¾ yard for inside; 1½ yard for inside and outside back.

Silesia pocketing, ¼ yard; “chamois” watch pocketing, 6 × 9 inches.

Buttons, 4 to 6 for single breast, 6 to 8 for double breast. Linen
thread for sewing buttons, 1 skein; buttonhole twist, 1 yard (6
strands).

Stay tape, 2½ yards. Wigan ⅝ yard. 1 buckle.

Linings, Etc., Required for Trousers

Sateen, 40″, ¼ yard. Broad falls, ½ yard.

Pocketing, ½ to ⅝ yard.

Linen pocket stay, 1–18 yard.

Silesia, 1–9 yard, Wigan, 1–9 yard.

Buttons, 6 large, 5 small, (6 if made without hook-clasp).

Hook-clasp, 1. Buckle, 1 large, (or 2 small at sides).

Button thread, linen, 1 skein.

Rubber tissue (good tailors seldom use it), 1–18 yard.

Knee silk (a luxury), ¼ yard.

A GENERAL DIAGRAM OF CORRECT ATTIRE

Here’s your “mentor, guide and friend”

══════════╤═════════╤═════════╤═════════╤════════════╤════════════╤═════════ │ Formal │Informal │ Formal │Informal Day│ Business │ Outing, │ Evening │ Evening │ Day │ Occasions │ Wear │Motoring, │Occasions│Occasions│Occasions│ (4) │ (5) │ Etc. │ (1) │ (2) │ (3) │ │ │ (6) ──────────┼─────────┼─────────┼─────────┼────────────┼────────────┼───────── Evening │ YES │ yes │ no │ no │ no │ no dress │ │ │ │ │ │ coat │ │ │ │ │ │ ──────────┼─────────┼─────────┼─────────┼────────────┼────────────┼───────── Tuxedo │ no │ YES │ no │ no │ no │ no coat │ │ │ │ │ │ ──────────┼─────────┼─────────┼─────────┼────────────┼────────────┼───────── Prince │ no (14) │ yes (?) │ YES │ yes │ no (?) │ no Albert │ │ (14) │ │ │ │ ──────────┼─────────┼─────────┼─────────┼────────────┼────────────┼───────── Cutaway or│ no │ no │ no (?) │ YES │ yes │ no walking │ │ │ (15) │ │ │ coat │ │ │ │ │ │ ──────────┼─────────┼─────────┼─────────┼────────────┼────────────┼───────── Sack coat │ no │ no │ no │ no │ YES │ yes (7) │ │ │ │ │ │ ──────────┼─────────┼─────────┼─────────┼────────────┼────────────┼───────── Norfolk │ no │ no │ no │ no │ no │ YES jacket │ │ │ │ │ │ ──────────┼─────────┼─────────┼─────────┼────────────┼────────────┼───────── Waistcoat │WHITE or │ black │ white, │white, fancy│ SAME or │ use (18a) │ black │ (17) │fancy or │or SAME (18)│ fancy (18) │optional (8) │ (16) │ │SAME (18)│ │ │ ──────────┼─────────┼─────────┼─────────┼────────────┼────────────┼───────── Trousers │ black │ black │ same or │ same or │ │same (18) (18a) │ │ │ fancy │ fancy (18) │ │ │ │ │ (18) │ │ │ ──────────┼─────────┼─────────┼─────────┼────────────┼────────────┼───────── Skirted │yes (19) │ yes │ YES │ yes │ yes │ seldom overcoat│ │ │ │ │ │ (20) (9) │ │ │ │ │ │ ──────────┼─────────┼─────────┼─────────┼────────────┼────────────┼───────── Sack │ yes │ yes │ yes │ YES │ YES │if needed overcoat│ │ │ │ │ │ (10) │ │ │ │ │ │ ──────────┼─────────┼─────────┼─────────┼────────────┼────────────┼───────── Top coat │ no │ no │ no │ yes │ YES │ YES ──────────┼─────────┼─────────┼─────────┼────────────┼────────────┼───────── Raincoat │yes (21) │ yes │ yes │ yes │ yes │ yes ──────────┼─────────┼─────────┼─────────┼────────────┼────────────┼───────── Ulster │ no │ no │ no (?) │ no (?) │ YES │ YES ──────────┼─────────┼─────────┼─────────┼────────────┼────────────┼───────── Shirt and │ white │ white │ white │ white │ white or │ fancy cuffs │ │ │ │ │ fancy │ (11) │ │ │ │ │ │ ──────────┼─────────┼─────────┼─────────┼────────────┼────────────┼───────── Collar │standing │ fold or │standing │standing or │ folded or │folded or │ │ wing │ or wing │ wing │ wing │ soft ──────────┼─────────┼─────────┼─────────┼────────────┼────────────┼───────── │white tie│black tie│white or │Four-in-hand│Four-in-hand│ tie or Cravat │ │ │ fancy │ or ascot │ or tie │kerchief │ │ │ ascot │ │ │ (22) ──────────┼─────────┼─────────┼─────────┼────────────┼────────────┼───────── │PEARL or │ gold │ gold │ gold │ gold │ gold Jewelry │ moon │ │ │ │ │ (12) │ stone │ │ │ │ │ │ (23) │ │ │ │ │ ──────────┼─────────┼─────────┼─────────┼────────────┼────────────┼───────── Gloves │WHITE or │ gray │ gray │gray or TAN │gray or TAN │ tan or (13) │ black │ │ │ │ │ chamois ──────────┼─────────┼─────────┼─────────┼────────────┼────────────┼───────── │ silk or │FEDORA or│silk (26)│ Silk or │ Derby or │Cap (26) Hat │ opera │ derby │ │ fedora │ fedora │ │ (24) │ (25) │ │ │ │ ──────────┼─────────┼─────────┼─────────┼────────────┼────────────┼───────── │ PATENT │ patent │ patent │ patent │black or tan│tan lace Shoes │BUTTON or│button or│ button │ button │ button or │shoes or │ pumps │ lace │ │ │ lace shoes │ oxfords │ (27) │ │ │ │ or oxfords │ ──────────┴─────────┴─────────┴─────────┴────────────┴────────────┴─────────

EXPLANATORY: (1) Evening wedding, balls, receptions, opera, dinner;
(2) club, stag, informal and home dinners; (3) day weddings,
receptions, afternoon calls, matinees; (4) church, promenade,
afternoon teas, matinees; (5) business and professional routine; (6)
golf, motoring, outing and country; (7, 8, 9) single or
double-breasted; (10) single-breasted, fly-front sack overcoat; (11)
for 1, 2, 3, 4 white dress shirt and cuffs; for 5, white or fancy,
dress or plaited bosom; for 6, neglige cotton, linen or flannel; (12)
links and studs only with 1 and 2, cravat pin and watch fob or chain
with 3, 4, 5, 6 optional; (13) glace or suede kid optional; cape or
chamois preferable with 6; (14) the double-breasted frock is the
proper dress coat for clergymen upon all occasions; (15) the flapt
walking coat of conspicuously patterned material is not good form, tho
the cutaway frock of plain fabrics and style is allowable; (16)
figured gray silk is allowable; (17) white, also figured gray silk,
allowable, but black is preferable; (18) “same” means same as coat;
(18a) if fancy waistcoat is worn trousers must match coat, if fancy
trousers are worn waistcoat must match coat; (19) business cape coat
is preferable for strictly formal dress; (20) frock coats are correct
for driving, races, hunting, etc.; (21) obviously not if of tan color
or conspicuously figured pattern; (22) or soft stock; (23) very small
gold studs are unobjectionable, diamonds and the like absolutely
impossible; (24) fedora is allowable, derby never; (25) silk is
considered bad taste, opera hat the hight of vulgarity; (26) fedora
permissible; (27) pumps preferable for dancing; (?) sometimes
allowable; small capitals indicate order of preference.

SELF MEASUREMENT

By “self measurements” no one means, literally, that a man can, unaided, take his own measurements for any sort of garment satisfactorily. It is better with help—any help. So all tailors, clothiers and outfitters use the term in the sense of “assisted” home measurements—which, if the instructions in the measurement charts usually supplied by the dealers are followed, will do nearly as well as if taken by experts in the store. The supplementary instructions and information in this chapter as to fashionable lengths, proper proportions, how to measure, etc., should be of real help in arriving at well-fitting garments.

Any one can measure or be measured by another—it’s just a matter of understanding what and how to do, and doing it _that way_.

The customer should be sure that he stands in a natural position, without inflating or contracting the chest. Any deviation from the natural form will affect the fit of the garment. Remove from pockets anything of a bulky nature before measuring.

Coat and overcoat measurements should always be taken over the vest. The length of the coat and the length of the sleeve are the first measurements to be taken. In taking sleeve measurements the arm should be held about on a level with the shoulder, the elbow crooked at right angles, which will make the hand about twelve inches from the face. Measure from center seam in back over elbow to the hand side of wrist joint. In taking the length of coat, measure from seam where collar joins the coat to proper length. The length should be regulated by your desire and hight; see also the proportionate tables.

After taking these two measurements (with the coat on) remove the coat and take the breast measure over the vest. Be sure that the tape is straight around the body over shoulder blades and close up under the arms. If the stomach is prominent, in addition to the waist measure, another measure should be taken around the larger part, a little lower down.

Vest measurements should be taken over the vest, using the vest one has on as a pattern. The tape should be drawn from seam at back of neck to top button of the vest. If a higher or lower vest than the one worn is desired, allowances should be made. For a double-breasted vest the measurement should be taken to the point of the V opening and not to the first button. The second measure should extend from seam at back of neck as before to bottom of vest. The breast measure for the vest should be the same as for the coat.

In measuring trousers one must stand erect. Place end of tape as close up in crotch, on inside of leg, as you can get it and measure from that point to where the heel joins the shoe. In measuring waist take length around the top of trousers over the waistband. Always use the trousers one has on as a guide for measurements, making the leg wider or narrower as desired. The knee measurement should usually be about two inches larger than the bottom measure. The average size for knee is 18½ inches and for bottom 16½ inches; see also proportionate tables following. That the cutter may make trousers of proper proportion at bottom, be sure and indicate the size of shoe worn and state if the instep is high or low. “Right dress” and “left dress,” indicating a certain difference in the crotch-fulness of one trouser leg, is also important.

Describe your physical peculiarities minutely—and be sure that the descriptions are accurate in every detail. These descriptions are sometimes as important to a cutter as are the measurements. In making descriptions be sure and remove the coat; coats are often padded so as to overcome natural defects. Any irregularities in the form should be clearly indicated on the order.

Be sure and state whether or not the measurements are taken over light or heavy underwear, also if garment is to be worn over light or heavy underwear. State if broad, sloping or regular shoulders; erect, stooping or extra so either way; whether short or long neck and if the neck is thick or thin—better give shirt collar size; give age, hight, weight and your business, which will obviate a minister getting clothes a racing man might wish, or vice versa. A photograph helps much.

When ordering overcoats to be worn over frock or dress coats, care should be taken to have the overcoat at least two inches longer than the under coat.

The width of legs of trousers should vary according to the size of the seat measure. The usual measurements are:

When seat measures less than 36, knee 18, bottom 16.

When seat measures from 37 to 44, knee 19, bottom 17.

When seat measures over 44, knee 20, bottom 18.

Don’t attempt to make allowance measures for peg-top or half-peg trousers unless one has an old pair to be copied exactly. Take ordinary measurements and say in the letter of instructions just how full they are to be—the cutter, if he knows his business, knows better than the customer what to do.

Use care in giving weight, hight and age; they are a great help to the cutter and almost indispensable to a successful fit.

Compare the measurements as written on the order sheet with the foregoing chart. While there may be some variation, due to physical differences, and for which scientific allowance will be made by the cutter if necessary, the lengths of coats and vests should be given on the order as in the table if one wishes garments cut in the fashion of the day—it being understood that freak garments such as undergraduates and rounders affect are not bound by these wise and sane suggestions.

Proportionate Table of Measurements

For Guidance of Customers Ordering by Mail

═══════════════════════╤═══╤═══╤═══╤═══╤═══╤═══╤═══╤═══╤═══╤═══╤═══╤═══ │ 5 │ 5 │ 5 │ 5 │ 5 │ 5 │ 5 │ 5 │ 5 │ 5 │ 6 │ 6 Hight (basis of │ft.│ft.│ft.│ft.│ft.│ft.│ft.│ft.│ft.│ft.│ft.│ft. measurements) │ 2 │ 3 │ 4 │ 5 │ 6 │ 7 │ 8 │ 9 │10 │11 │ │ 1 │in.│in.│in.│in.│in.│in.│in.│in.│in.│in.│ │in. ───────────────────────┼───┼───┼───┼───┼───┼───┼───┼───┼───┼───┼───┼─── Average weight │90 │100│110│120│130│140│150│160│170│180│190│200 ───────────────────────┼───┼───┼───┼───┼───┼───┼───┼───┼───┼───┼───┼─── Breast │31 │32 │33 │34 │35 │36 │37 │38 │39 │40 │41 │42 ───────────────────────┼───┼───┼───┼───┼───┼───┼───┼───┼───┼───┼───┼─── Waist length, frock, │17 │17¼│17½│17¾│18 │18¼│18½│18¾│19 │19¼│19½│19¾ Prince Albert and │ │ │ │ │ │ │ │ │ │ │ │ dress coat │ │ │ │ │ │ │ │ │ │ │ │ ───────────────────────┼───┼───┼───┼───┼───┼───┼───┼───┼───┼───┼───┼─── Length of cutaway or │33¼│33¾│34¼│34¾│35¼│35¾│36¼│36¾│37¼│37¾│38 │39 walking coat │ │ │ │ │ │ │ │ │ │ │ │ ───────────────────────┼───┼───┼───┼───┼───┼───┼───┼───┼───┼───┼───┼─── Length of dress or │37 │37¾│38½│39½│40½│41½│42 │42½│43 │43½│44 │44 Prince coat │ │ │ │ │ │ │ │ │ │ │ │ ───────────────────────┼───┼───┼───┼───┼───┼───┼───┼───┼───┼───┼───┼─── Length of │27 │27½│28 │28½│29 │29½│30 │30½│31 │31½│32 │33 single-breasted sack │ │ │ │ │ │ │ │ │ │ │ │ ───────────────────────┼───┼───┼───┼───┼───┼───┼───┼───┼───┼───┼───┼─── Length of │27½│28 │28½│29 │29½│30 │30½│31 │31½│32 │32 │33 double-breasted sack │ │ │ │ │ │ │ │ │ │ │ │ ───────────────────────┼───┴───┴───┴───┴───┴───┴───┴───┴───┴───┴───┴─── Length of Chesterfield │Should state if to wear over frock or sack coat sack overcoat │ or both ───────────────────────┼───┬───┬───┬───┬───┬───┬───┬───┬───┬───┬───┬─── Length of vest │23½│24 │24½│24¾│25 │25¼│25½│25¾│26¼│26¾│27 │27½ ───────────────────────┼───┼───┼───┼───┼───┼───┼───┼───┼───┼───┼───┼─── Outside seam of │39½│40 │40½│41¼│42¼│43 │43½│44¼│45 │45½│46 │46½ trousers including │ │ │ │ │ │ │ │ │ │ │ │ waistband │ │ │ │ │ │ │ │ │ │ │ │ ───────────────────────┼───┼───┼───┼───┼───┼───┼───┼───┼───┼───┼───┼─── Inseam of trousers │29 │29½│30 │30½│31 │31½│32 │32½│33 │33½│34 │34½ ───────────────────────┼───┴───┴───┴───┴───┴───┴───┴───┴───┴───┴───┴─── Sleeve │Measure sleeve of old coat from seam under arm │ to cuff, adding ½ inch ───────────────────────┼─────────────────────────────────────────────── Length of top coat │One and one-half inches longer than │ double-breasted sack ───────────────────────┼───┬───┬───┬───┬───┬───┬───┬───┬───┬───┬───┬─── Length of rain coat │46 │47 │48 │49 │50 │51 │52 │53 │54 │55 │56 │57 ───────────────────────┼───┴───┴───┴───┴───┴───┴───┴───┴───┴───┴───┴─── Length of skirted │One inch less than rain coat overcoat │ ───────────────────────┼─────────────────────────────────────────────── Length of ulster │Same as rain coat ───────────────────────┼─────────────────────────────────────────────── Length of Tuxedo coat │Same as double-breasted sack ───────────────────────┴───────────────────────────────────────────────

When the hight is shorter and the weight heavier, the breast will be larger than the proportionate table shows. When the hight is higher and the weight less, the breast will be smaller than the table shows.

When the breast is larger than the seat, take the measure again, as this is unusual. Be careful that the personal description is thoro.

PERIODS OF MOURNING

For a wife, widowers wear mourning for one year to eighteen months; second mourning, if adopted, usually being at the expiration of a year.

For a husband, widows wear mourning for two to three years, lightening at intervals of six months.

Grass widows and widowers do not wear mourning for the departed.

For parents, gentlemen wear mourning for six months to one year; women usually wear it for two years.

For a brother or sister, gentlemen wear mourning for six months to one year; women usually one year.

For a child, fathers wear mourning six months to one year; mothers usually a full year. For an infant, three months.

For grandparents, few men wear mourning; but if they do, second mourning for three to six months is considered sufficient; women wear mourning six months to one year.

For uncles, aunts or cousins, men seldom adopt mourning, unless second mourning for one to three months; women for three months.

For grandchildren, it is considered unnecessary—or perhaps too admonitory.

It will be noticed that women always grieve longer than men—at least by outward symbols.

TO MEASURE FOR A HAT

Adjust tape measure around head at a point level with the center of the forehead.

═══════════════════════════
Hat size Inches around head
───────────────────────────
5⅝ 18¾
6 19
6⅛ 19⅜
6¼ 19¾
6⅜ 20¼
6½ 20¾
6⅝ 21
6¾ 21½
6⅝ 21⅝
7 22¼
7⅛ 22½
7¼ 23
7⅜ 23⅜
7½ 23¾
7⅝ 24
7¾ 24½
7⅝ 25
8 25¼
───────────────────────────

Boys’ sizes run from 5⅝ to 7; mens’ from 6¾; the largest size commonly carried in stock is 7¾, all above that being called extra sizes.

LIVERY CHART

A table of the proper servants’ wear for city and country, arranged by vehicles.

NOTE.—In many cases trousers matching coat may be substituted for boots and breeches; circumstances, principally those concerned with formality, must govern.

═════════════════════╤════╤══════════════════════╤═════════════════════
VEHICLE │MEN │ CITY │ COUNTRY
─────────────────────┼────┼──────────────────────┼─────────────────────
Beach (or morning) │ 1│Dress; trousers │Undress; trousers
phaeton │ │ │
Booby sleigh │ 2│Dress or undress │Undress or dress
Break │ 2│Dress or undress; │Undress or dress;
│ │ trousers │ trousers
Brougham │1 or│Dress; boots and │
│ 2│ breeches │
Caleche │ 2│Dress; boots and │
│ │ breeches │
Chaise │ 1│Dress; boots and │
│ │ breeches or │
│ │ trousers; better │
│ │ form without a │
│ │ servant │
Coach │ 2│Dress; boots and │
│ │ breeches │
Cocking cart │ 1│Dress; boots and │Undress; breeches and
│ │ breeches or trousers│ leggins
Coupe │1 or│Dress; boots and │
│ 2│ breeches │
Curricle │ 1│Dress; boots and │
│ │ breeches │
Cutter │ 1│Dress or undress │Undress or dress
Dog cart │ 1│Dress; boots and │Undress; breeches and
│ │ breeches │ leggins
D’Orsay │ 2│Dress; boots and │
│ │ breeches │
Dos-a-dos │ 1│Dress; boots and │Undress; breeches and
│ │ breeches │ leggins
Extension top phaeton│ 1│Dress; trousers │Undress; trousers
Game cart │ 1│Dress; boots and │Undress; breeches and
│ │ breeches │ leggins
George IV (or lady’s │ 1│Dress; boots and │
driving phaeton) │ │ breeches │
Gig phaeton │ 1│Dress; boots and │
│ │ breeches │
Golf cart │ 1│Dress; boots and │Undress; breeches and
│ │ breeches │ leggins
Hansom │ 1│Dress or undress; may │Undress or dress; may
│ │ wear a plain black │ wear a plain black
│ │ cutaway coat, felt │ cutaway coat, felt
│ │ top hat, breeches │ top hat, breeches
│ │ and leggins, in │ and leggins, in
│ │ rainy weather a │ rainy weather a
│ │ mackintosh cape │ machintosh cape
Ladies’ driving │ │See George IV │
phaeton │ │ │
Landau │ 2│Dress; boots and │
│ │ breeches │
Landaulet │ 1│Dress; boots and │
│ │ breeches │
Mail phaeton │ 2│Dress; groom’s livery │
│ │ boots and breeches │
Morning phaeton │ │See Beach phaeton │
Omnibus │ 2│Dress; afternoon or │Undress; trousers
│ │ evening, boots and │
│ │ breeches; morning │
│ │ trousers │
Park drag │ 2│Dress; groom’s livery,│
│ │ boots and breeches │
Phaeton │ 1│Dress; trousers │Undress; trousers
Road coach │ 2│ │Dress; boots and
│ │ │ breeches, or,
│ │ │ undress; breeches
│ │ │ and leggins
Rockaway │ 1│Dress; trousers │Undress; trousers
Runabout │ 1│Dress or undress │Undress or dress
Skeleton break │ 2│ │Undress; breeches and
│ │ │ leggins
Spider phaeton │ 1│Dress; boots and │
│ │ breeches │
Stanhope │ 1│Dress; boots and │
│ │ breeches │
Station wagon │ 1│ │Undress; trousers
Surrey │ 1│Dress; trousers │Undress; trousers
T cart │ 1│Dress; boots and │
│ │ breeches │
Tandem cart │ 1│Dress; boots and │Undress; breeches and
│ │ breeches │ leggins
Tilbury │ 1│Dress; boots and │
│ │ breeches │
Top wagon │ 1│ │Undress; trousers or
│ │ │ breeches and
│ │ │ leggins
Unicorn break │ 1│Dress; boots and │Undress; breeches and
│ │ breeches │ leggins
Victoria │1 or│Dress; boots and │
│ 2│ breeches │
Vis-a-vis │ 2│Dress; boots and │
│ │ breeches │
Wagonette │ 1│Dress or undress; │Undress or dress;
│ │ trousers │ trousers
Whitechapel cart │ 1│Dress; boots and │Undress; breeches and
│ │ breeches │ leggins
│ │ │
│ │ AUTOMOBILES │
Brougham │ 2│Dress or undress; │
│ │ greatcoats │
Ladies’ runabout │ 1│Undress; trousers │Undress; trousers
Runabout │ 1│Undress; trousers │Undress; trousers
Surrey │ 1│Dress; military coat, │Undress; trousers
│ │ trousers │
Touring car │1 or│Undress; greatcoats │Undress; greatcoats
│ 2│ │
Victoria │ 2│Dress; trousers │Undress; trousers
Victoria (rear drive)│ 1│Dress; trousers │Undress; trousers
─────────────────────┴────┴──────────────────────┴─────────────────────

CLOTH MEASURE

This old system is used but little nowadays, having been superseded by long measure and the metric system.

2¼ inches make 1 nail marked na.
4 nails make 1 quarter marked qr.
4 quarters make 1 yard marked yd.
3 quarters make 1 ell Flemish marked E. Fl.
5 quarters make 1 ell English marked E. E.
5 quarters 1 9–10 ins. make 1 ell French marked E. Fr.
5 quarters 1 1–5 ins. make 1 ell Scotch marked E. S.

SHOES: THEIR NUMBERING

There are various systems of shoe sizes in use nowadays—designed, perhaps, to deceive those with vanity afflicted who will insist they can wear a smaller size than they can wear—or should wear. So if one asks for 6½A he can depart in peace and comfort wearing 40–1, or 185, or 28–1, or otherwise as the system may be.

Yet for that matter an 8½A by one maker may not be 8½A in some other maker’s shoes, although both use the old numbering system, as many still do.

The best known of the “blind numbering systems” is that known as “French Sizes” and corresponds thus:

Size 1 1½ 2 2½ 3 3½ 4 4½
Written 33 33- 34 34- 35 35- 36 36-
5 5½ 6 6½ 7 7½ 8 8½
37 37- 38 38- 39 39- 40 40-
9 9½ 10 10½ 11 11½ 12 12½
41 41- 42 42- 43 43- 44 44-
13 13½ 14 12 13½
45 45- 46 45 45-

A dash indicates half sizes.

Widths A B C D E EE
Written 0 1 2 3 4 5

In marking, the size is first written, then the width, close together; thus 37–0 means 5½A, 40–1 means 8B, etc.

Another widely used system is more obvious, in that ½ is the decimal .5 without the decimal point, thus:

Size 1 1½ 2 2½ 3 3½ 4 4½ 5
Written 1 15 2 25 3 35 4 45 5
5½ 6 6½ 7 7½ 8 8½ 9 9½
55 6 65 7 75 8 85 9 95
10 10½ 11 11½ 12 12½ 13 13½ 14
10 105 11 115 12 125 13 135 14
Widths A B C D E EE
Written 1 2 3 4 5 6

In marking, the width is written first, so that 1½A is 115, 4½C is 345, etc.

A third system has a valueless figure prefixt thus:

Size 1 1½ 2 2½ 3 3½ 4
Written 21 21- 22 22- 23 23- 24
4½ 5 5½ 6 6½ 7 7½
24- 25 25- 26 26- 27 27-
8 8½ 9 9½ 10 10½ 11
28 28- 29 29- 210 210- 211
11½ 12 12½ 13 13½
211- 212 212- 213 213-

The dash indicating the half sizes.

Widths AA A B C D E EE
Written 00 0 1 2 3 4 5
Or
1 2 3 4 5

In marking, the widths are written last, thus 22–0 means 2½A, 281 means 8B or 8A.

A system largely used in marking men’s shoes consists in letting the last figure indicate the width and dividing the first figure or figures by 2 to obtain the size, thus:

Size 1 1½ 2 2½ 3 3½ 4 4½
Written 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9
5 5½ 6 6½ 7 7½ 8 8½
10 11 12 12½ 14 15 16 17
9 9½ 10 10½ 11 11½ 12 12½
18 19 20 21 22 23 24 25
Widths A B C D E EE
Written 1 2 3 4 5 6

Thus size 7½A is written 151, size 8B is written 162, and so on.

Another system, and one that is used by the Douglas Shoe Co., has the width written first, and the size next, a third figure being used to indicate whether a whole or half size is meant, thus:

470 means width 4 or (D) size 7
345 means width 3 or (C) size 4½

This system retains the regular size numbers from 1 upward, the whole number being indicated by 0 and a half size by 5 added as the third figure. After size 9½ four figures are used, the two middle ones indicating the size. Widths are designated thus:

Width A B C D E EE W
Written 1 2 3 4 5 6 7

Doubtless, like in all things else, woman was at the bottom of the invention of these systems, which were fittingly applied first of all to woman’s shoes, but nowadays they are quite universal. Hence he is a happy man whose shoes fit and who knows it.

Shoe sizes for the various ages are usually divided thus:

Infants’, 3 to 8
Children’s, 8½ to 12
Misses’, 12½ to 2
Ladies’, 2½ to 6
Youths’, 12 to 2
Boys’, 2½ to 6
Men’s, 6 to 14

while widths are clast

A or 1 narrow
B or 2 medium narrow
C or 3 medium
D or 4 wide
E or 5 extra wide
EE or 6, widest usually made
W or 7 exceptionally wide.

RELATED HOSIERY AND SHOE SIZES

While it is scarcely advisable to order shoes (by mail, for instance) by the sizes of one’s hose, it is quite practicable, satisfactory and comfortable to order hose by the size of one’s shoes—that is to say by the relation of these sizes to each other, to wit:

Men’s hosiery—

Shoe 5½–6 6½–7 7½–8 8½–9 9½–10 10½–11
Hose 9½ 10 10½ 11 11½ 12

Average weight in cotton, 2½ ounces per pair; wool, 3½ ounces.

Children’s hosiery—

1 Infants’ shoe takes 4 -in. hose
2 and 3 Infants’ shoe takes 4½-in. hose
4 Infants’ shoe takes 5 -in. hose
5 Infants’ shoe takes 5½-in. hose
6 and 7 Children’s shoe takes 6 -in. hose
8 Children’s shoe takes 6½-in. hose
9 and 10 Children’s shoe takes 7 -in. hose
11 Boys’ shoe takes 7½-in. hose
12 Boys’ shoe takes 8 -in. hose
13, 1 and 2 Boys’ shoe takes 8–8½-in. hose

Average weight per pair, cotton, 2 to 4 ounces; per dozen, 20 to 40 ounces; wool, about 50 per cent more.

HOSIERY SIZE MARKS

The little pinhead holes near the ribbed top of a stocking indicate its size. Read them thus:

Mens’ hosiery—
Size 9 *
Size 9½ **
Size 10 ***
Size 10½ ****
Size 11 *****
Size 11½ ****** or ***
***

Infants’ hosiery—
Size 4 *
Size 4½ **
Size 5 ***
Size 5½ ****
Size 6 *****
Size 6½ ****** or ***
***

Boys’ hosiery—
Size 6 *
Size 6½ **
Size 7 ***
Size 7½ ****
Size 8 *****
Size 8½ ****** or ***
***
Size 9 ***
****
Size 9½ ****
****
Size 10 ****
*****

SLEEVE LENGTHS (SHIRTS)

As commonly made the following lengths of sleeves are provided for each neck size—a lesser range for colored shirts because of the extra hazard on “novelties” and perhaps because the wearers aren’t so particular as he who must be au fait in spick-and-span white all the time.

═══════════════════════╤═══════════════════════════════════════════════ NECK SIZE │ SLEEVE LENGTHS ───────────────────────┼───────────────────────┬─────────────────────── │ White │ Colored ───────────────────────┼───────────────────────┼─────────────────────── 13½ │ 30 to 32 │ 31 ───────────────────────┼───────────────────────┼─────────────────────── 14 │ 30 to 33 │ 31 to 33 ───────────────────────┼───────────────────────┼─────────────────────── 14½ │ 30 to 34 │ 31 to 33 ───────────────────────┼───────────────────────┼─────────────────────── 15 │ 30 to 35 │ 31 to 33 ───────────────────────┼───────────────────────┼─────────────────────── 15½ │ 30 to 35 │ 32 to 34 ───────────────────────┼───────────────────────┼─────────────────────── 16 │ 30 to 33 │ 32 to 34 ───────────────────────┼───────────────────────┼─────────────────────── 16½ │ 30 to 34 │ 32 and 33 ───────────────────────┼───────────────────────┼─────────────────────── 17 │ 30 to 34 │ 32 and 33 ───────────────────────┼───────────────────────┼─────────────────────── 17½ │ 31 to 34 │ 32 and 33 ───────────────────────┼───────────────────────┼─────────────────────── 18 │ 31 to 34 │ 32 and 33 ───────────────────────┴───────────────────────┴───────────────────────

Attacht cuffs add 2 inches.

BOYS’ AND CHILDREN’S UNION SUITS

The corresponding sizes for ages are as follows:

═══════════════════════╤═══════════════════════╤═══════════════════════ SIZE │ LENGTH │ AGES ───────────────────────┼───────────────────────┼─────────────────────── 2 │ 29 in. │ 3 to 4 ───────────────────────┼───────────────────────┼─────────────────────── 3 │ 32 in. │ 5 to 6 ───────────────────────┼───────────────────────┼─────────────────────── 4 │ 36 in. │ 7 to 8 ───────────────────────┼───────────────────────┼─────────────────────── 5 │ 40 in. │ 9 to 10 ───────────────────────┼───────────────────────┼─────────────────────── 6 │ 44 in. │ 11 to 12 ───────────────────────┼───────────────────────┼─────────────────────── 7 │ 48 in. │ 13 to 14 ───────────────────────┴───────────────────────┴───────────────────────

If large for his age, take next size larger, or the following:

───────────────────────────────────┬─────────────────────────────────── SIZES │ AGES ───────────────────────────────────┼─────────────────────────────────── 24 breast measure │ 6 years ───────────────────────────────────┼─────────────────────────────────── 28 breast measure │ 7 to 9 years ───────────────────────────────────┼─────────────────────────────────── 32 breast measure │ 10 to 12 years ───────────────────────────────────┼─────────────────────────────────── 34 breast measure │ 13 years ───────────────────────────────────┴───────────────────────────────────

CHILDREN’S UNDERWEAR SIZES

If your children are large for their age, purchase at least one size larger than the average as given in the scale of sizes.

AGE SHIRTS PANTALETS
1 year Size 16 Size 16
1 to 1½ years Size 18 Size 16
1½ to 2 years Size 20 Size 18
2 to 4 years Size 22 Size 20
4 to 6 years Size 24 Size 22
6 to 8 years Size 26 Size 24
8 to 10 years Size 28 Size 26
10 to 12 years Size 30 Size 28
12 to 13 years Size 32 Size 30
13 to 14 years Size 34 Size 32
14 to 15 years Size 34 Size 34

None of the goods under this heading are intended for large boys. Boys’ drawers and shirts come in sizes 24 to 34 only.

CHILDREN’S GLOVE SIZES (AVERAGES)

Size 00 for children of 2 to 3 years.
Size 0 for children of 3 to 5 years.
Size 1 for children of 4 to 6 years.
Size 2 for children of 5 to 8 years.
Size 3 for boys of 6 to 9 years.
Size 4 for boys of 8 to 11 years.
Size 5 for boys of 10 to 13 years.
Size 6 for boys of 11 to 14 years.

SILK RIBBON WIDTHS

In this table is given the usual width of silk ribbons according to their respectiv numbers:

═══════════════════════╤═══════════════════════╤═══════════════════════
NUMBER │ LINES │ INCHES
───────────────────────┼───────────────────────┼───────────────────────
1│ 2½ │ 3–16
1½│ 4 │ 5–16¼
2│ 5 │ 7–16
3│ 6½ │ 9–16⅝
4│ 8 │ 11–16¾
5│ 10 │ 15–16–1
7│ 13 │ 1⅛–1¼
9│ 17–18 │ 1½–1⅝
12│ 21–22 │ 1⅝–2
16│ 25 │ 2⅜
22│ 30 │ 2⅝
40│ 38 (?) │ 3½
───────────────────────┴───────────────────────┴───────────────────────

MEN’S WEAR CLOTH WEIGHTS

Cloths and all textil fabrics are standardized on the basis of the weight of a yard in ounces. The approximate weights given below are for double-width goods—54 inches; but as double-width varies from 48 to 60 inches the term itself is, once in a while, misleading. However, if the “double-width” is unusually narrow or unusually wide it is generally so stated in exact figures, both as to width and weight. The weights of cloth commonly used for men’s clothing in this country are: