Chapter M (5)

=Sulfuric acid test=—(cotton vs. linen). After having been freed from the finishing materials the sample of cloth is treated for one or two minutes in concentrated English sulfuric-acid, then rinsed well in water, and dried between blotting-papers. Cotton is completely dissolved in this treatment; linen remains unaffected. This test is suitable for colored goods, and by weighing the samples before and after treatment the quantity of each material can be approximated.

=Sumac=—any shrub or tree of the genus rhus; the bark thereof used in tanning.

=Summer garters=—g. specially for wear with knee drawers, having no metal parts to come in corrosiv contact with moist flesh.

=Summer undress=—(=marine corps, etc.=), see Undress, White dress, Field dress, et var.

=Summer weight=—in the cloth trade suitings of 11 to 14 ounces are so known. Compare Winter w., Spring w., Fall w., Tropical w.

=Sun test=—see Exposure t.

=Sun umbrella=—an u. usually of cotton material, of tan or buff color outside and with a green or blue inside, the lining color being printed.

=Sunday-go-to-meeting-clothes=—the best one has.

=Sunshade=—a sun umbrella (qv).

=Sunshade hat=—a collapsible h. of light-weight cotton material having a very long and wide brim stretcht on wire; used by amateur fishermen.

=Super=—see Wool.

=Superfine=—the finest grade of dress broadcloths.

=Superlative measures=—a system of tailors’ measurements embracing features of both long and short measure systems, with which, for comparison, the former may be considered the allopathic, the latter homeopathic, and the superlative eclectic schools of clothes-prescribing.

=Supporter=—(1) a contrivance for holding up some portion of one’s apparel, as garters, braces, etc.; (2) a surgical or hygienic appliance for holding in place or assisting localized physical weaknesses, as a laced waistband with an underpart reaching thru the crotch from front to back to support the parts.

=Suppression=—tailoring term indicating close-shaping of the waist, as of a coat.

=Surah=—a soft, fine twilled, silk fabric, usually plain dyed.

=Surcharged=—weighted; loaded in dyeing and finishing.

=Surcoat=—(1) a long c. or cassock worn over a vest or undercoat; (2) a loose robe worn over armor, in the middle ages.

=Surgeon’s gown=—a long, plain g., completely enveloping the figure, closing at the throat, with draw strings or elastics in the cuffs, with or without hood; usually of white cotton material.

=Surgeon’s plaster=—see Sticking p.

=Surplice=—a garment of linen worn by all clerics and assistants in choir and by priests in the administration of the sacraments. Also called cotta.

=Surtout=—an overcoat made in the style of a frock coat; a Newmarket (qv).

=Surveyor’s boot=—see Prospector’s b.

=Suspender button=—one of the petty annoyances of men living in single unblessedness.

=Suspenders=—devices for keeping one’s trousers neatly and modestly in place.

=Suspensory=—an arrangement of straps and bag to sustain the scrotum.

=Swaddling clothes=—known since Moses’ time, at least.

=Swallowtail=—see Evening dress.

=Swanga-buckra=—a negro epithet for a well-drest white man.

=Swap=—when a prospectiv customer does not purchase he is said to have given the salesman a “swap”; derivation of term unknown.

=Swathling clothes=—see Swaddling c.

=Swayback=—meaning that a man’s attitude tries to imitate Hogarth’s line of beauty.

=Sweat lining=—in hats and caps usually a lining band of soft leather, occasionally patent leather, or other material.

=Sweat shop=—in garment making a shop not owned by the manufacturer but by a contractor, who pays low wages; a home shop where various members of the family are employed; popularly a shop where disease and contagion are supposed to be imminent if not actually existent, and where the operators are virtual slaves for the sake of a pittance to buy bread.

=Sweatband=—see s. lining.

=Sweater=—a tight-fitting, ribbed, knitted jacket or shirt, of various styles, as turtle neck s., coat s., V neck s., etc.

=Sweating=—a putrefactiv process in leather preparation for the purpose of loosening hairs.

=Sweating system=—see Sweat shop.

=Swedish gloves=—see Suede.

=Sweet bags=—ornamental bags or pouches of perfume or aromatic substances variously used by the beaux and belles of the romantic past.

=Swell=—a supposedly ultra-fashionable individual.

=Swelled seam=—(tailoring) the parts to be joined are basted face to face along an outlet; this is sewed with a regular or plain s. (qv) at the usual distance from the edge of the top piece, which is then turned and stitcht again at the required distance from the first s. underneath and then very lightly prest, giving the raised or swelled effect, which is helpt by absence of any stitching holding the cloth down at the turn of the s. Also called “raised s.” and “lap s.”; often mistakenly called “welt s.” (qv).

=Swimming suits=—same as bathing s.

=Switch=—a riding whip.

=Swivel weaving=—in weaving, a process of achieving embroidered-like effects on cloth, being effected by small auxiliary shuttles of colored threads.

=Swop=—an unconsummated sale (retail slang).

=Sword belt=—a leather or canvas b. worn around the waist, supporting a sword by straps.

=Sword cane=—a hollow walking stick with detachable handle, to which is affixt a s. or dagger.

=Sword knot=—(=navy=) for officers, a strip of gold lace 24 inches long, doubled, with a gold slide and surmounted at the end with a large gold bullion tassel.

=Symmetricals=—bits of padding used by stage Venuses and Adonises.

=System=—a method of tailoring instruction for cutters, or learners; a crank method for achieving misfits.

=Syndicate shop=—name given to any one of a chain of stores controlled from an executiv center.

=$=—the idol of trade.

T

=Tab=—to keep tally or count.

=Tab collar=—(1) a linen wing or piccadilly shirt c.; (2) any standing shirt c. with sewed-on tabs thru which the scarf or tie is slipt and held in place.

=Tabard=—a sleeveless or short-sleeved outergarment worn by knights over their armor, commonly embroidered with the arms of the wearer; the official costume of a herald or pursuivant.

=Table=—the upper part or flat face of a brilliant cut diamond or other precious stone.

=Table cut=—trade term for gloves cut by hand, not stampt out from a pattern or die, ensuring a better fitting glove.

=Tabs=—small flaps on shirt collars for holding scarf in place.

=Tack=—(1) the narrowest part of the back of a frock coat; (2) that part where the skirts are joined; (3) the top of a vent.

=Tack stay=—in tailoring a slip of interlining material used in pocket seams, etc., at the place where a tack (qv) is made, and for its support or strength.

=Tacking=—in shoemaking the process of placing the vamp or upper on the last and pulling it over and tacking it onto the leather innersole on the bottom of the last; also called “pulling over”.

=Taffeta=—a light-weight, thin, plain-woven, glossy silk fabric, finisht in a variety of ways: as plain dyed, changeable, warp-printed, brocaded, etc.

=Taffeta flannel=—a plain woven, light-weight wool material, with stripes, plaids and checks, effected by colored threads in warp and filling, coat fronts and said to be nearly unshrinkable; used chiefly for outing shirts, pajamas, etc.

=Taffeta weave=—see Plain w.

=Taffy=—a name once given to a watered variety of taffeta silk.

=Taffy=—blarney; soft palaver.

=Tag lock=—a tangled l., as of wool on unshorn sheep.

=Taglioni=—a style of overcoat fashionable in the 50’s.

=Tahiti pearl=—trade name for a very dark, nearly black, p. shell (and articles thereof) from Tahiti.

=Tail=—a coarser grade of wool than “breach”; also called cow-tail.

=Tail-coat=—familiar term for any skirted c., but especially for evening dress and cutaway frock coats.

=Tailor=—generally, any one in the business of making clothes; specifically, (1) a shopkeeper who makes clothes to order and to measure; (2) any workmen employed in the making of clothes, whether journeyman t., presser, operator, bushelman, etc.

=Tailor-to-the-trade=—a clothing manufacturer who makes clothes to order for agents or other tailors; largely a mail order business; often a concern doing business under two to four or more names, so that customers lost by one may be sold again (note double entendre) under another name; in such cases usually located on a corner of two streets and, if possible, in a named building, that several different real addresses may be used.

=Tailor’s block=—a sort of stool on which the customer being measured poses for the admiration of other waiting customers.

=Tailor’s braid=—any b. of silk or mohair, with a flat or corded edge, used for binding or facing garments, etc.

=Tailor’s cramp=—a cramp in the muscles of the thumb and fingers, common among tailors and other needle workers.

=Tailor’s goose=—a smoothing iron. See Goose.

=Tailor’s muscle=—the sartorius, a long, narrow muscle of the thigh, that aids in flexing the knee, the longest muscle in the body; so called from its use in crossing the legs, as with tailors.

=Tailor’s silk thread sizes=—see Appendix.

=Tailor’s spasm=—a nervous affection of the hand common to needleworkers.

=Tailor’s square=—an L shaped measuring and drafting implement, markt in inches and in fractional computations.

=Tailor’s tack=—a strong, ornamental finish at the ends of pockets, vents, etc. See Crow’s-foot and Bar tack.

=Tailor’s trimmings=—trade term for linings, buttons, braids, thread and all other “notions” required by tailors.

=Tailor’s twist=—the strong silk thread used in garment making.

=Tailorage=—the product or effect of the tailor’s art: as “a great parade of tailorage.”

=Tailoring indicator=—a machine for ascertaining with exactness all manner of measurements, proportions, disproportions, hight, weight, position, etc., of the customer.

=Tailorize=—to clothe or fit as a tailor does.

=Tailoroid=—a gummy preparation in stick form intended for use on edges that are to be felled for the purpose of preventing fraying and blistering and to ensure smoothness, firmness and flexibility of trousers and coat bottom hems, coat collars, etc. (Proprietary.)

=Taleth=—a praying shawl of white stuff, bordered with blue, worn by Jews at their devotions.

=Take-in=—to make narrower, shorter, snugger. (Tailoring, etc.)

=Talisman=—see Amulet.

=Tall hat=—slang for silk h.

=Talma=—a long cape or cloak, sometimes hooded, worn in first half of 19th century; named after Francois Joseph Talma, a French tragedian.

=Tam o’ Shanter=—a broad, flat, knit woolen cap with a tassel in the center (Scotch).

=Tampico=—Istle (qv).

=Tan=—to convert hides and skins into leather by chemical treatment.

=Tan bark=—any bark, as sumac, oak, hemlock, chestnut, etc., containing tannic acid in sufficient quantity to be useful in tanning leather.

=Tan liquor=—(1) an infusion of tan bark in water; (2) any astringent liquor used in making leather.

=Tan pickle=—same as T. liquor.

=Tan yard=—a tannery (qv).

=Tannery=—a place where hides and skins are tanned and made into leather.

=Tap sole=—a half s. shaped like a slip s., but nailed or attacht to the outside of a boot or shoe and reaching only to the arch, coming next to the ground; not a whole s. See Slip s. Also called Napoleon s.

=Tapaderos=—among Mexicans a leather covering for the protection of the feet.

=Tape line=—an inch measure. See next.

=Tape measure=—an article, usually of fabric, printed in inches and fractions thereof, commonly 60 inches long and half an inch wide, used by tailors, clothiers, et al., in taking measurements.

=Taped seam=—in tailoring a strong s. used in making garments from insubstantial or easily frayed fabrics, specifically a strip of tape laid under a s. and stitcht to same on both sides. Compare Silesia s.

=Tar=—a boy’s sailor cap.

=Tarboosh=—a red cap with tassel of dark colored silk, and sometimes forming the inner part of the turban, worn by men in Moslem countries.

=Tarlatan=—of interest to men chiefly when worn by coryphees of the ballet, or when employed to keep off mosquitoes at night.

=Tartan=—a Scotch plaid.

=Task system=—a peculiar Jewish s. of garment making. A “task” is so many garments to a day’s work for a “team” or “set”, usually 3 to 5 people. This quota must be finisht and wages are reckoned upon it. If but five tasks, for example, are finisht in six days, the team workers get but five days’ pay; per contra, if they can do seven tasks in six days, they get seven days’ pay. The task s. is really piece work and is perhaps the most ingenious and effectiv engine or over-exertion known to modern industry.

=Tattersall=—general trade name for loud or horsey patterns in heavy woolen vestings; the name from the famous London horse market.

=Tatterdemalion=—a raggedy one.

=Tattoo=—to decorate the human epidermis with designs pricked in with indelible dyes.

=Tawing=—a process in leather dressing in which the gelatin of the fibers is combined with certain mineral salts.

=Tea basket=—a sort of folding hamper with fittings for coaching party lunches, etc.

=Team process=—see T. work.

=Team work=—tailoring term, meaning practically the same as “Section w.” (qv), but given to a lesser number or smaller team of operators to make and finish and consequently costing a trifle more to execute. Employed most generally in cheap tailoring, medium grade readymade, etc.

=Tear drops=—small pear-shaped side whiskers.

=Teasel=—a machine or contrivance for dressing cloth.

=Teasel cloth=—see Flannelet.

=Teaser=—a machine having rollers of various sizes studded with pins which open the wool and intermix or blend it before carding or combing and spinning.

=Teck=—a readymade imitation of the knot tied with a four-in-hand scarf.

=Teddy bear=—another fad in children’s clothing of a par in sanity with Fauntleroy, Buster Brown, Brownie, Greenaway, and other eruptions.

=Teething ring=—a large r. of rubber, ivory, pearl, etc., worn attacht to the wrist by a blue ribbon from the age of 5 or 6 months up.

=Teetsook=—a saddle-bag made of buffalo hide, from which the hair has been removed; in use on the plains.

=Telegraph messenger’s uniform=—(=Western Union=): double-breasted blouse with one outside (breast) pocket and Prussian collar, red cord trimming, trousers to match; (=Postal=): single-breasted blouse, white cord trimming.

=Telescope=—an article of hand luggage of two parts, each shaped like boxes without covers, one sliding or telescoping into the other and held together by straps; usually canvas-covered with leather trimmings.

=Telescope hat=—a flat topt, soft felt h., not creast in the middle like a fedora h., but with a gutter all around the top of the crown.

=Tennis flannel=—see Outing cloth; also Flannel.

=Tennis hat=—a light felt h. of soft texture, usually of light colors, worn in outdoor sports.

=Tennis robe=—a sort of dressing gown for wear between dressing room and court or while resting, usually of flannel or other light material.

=Tennis shoe=—a low s. of soft leather or canvas, having rubber soles and low or no heels.

=Tennis ulster=—same as t. robe (qv) but fashioned especially like an overcoat or u. and always made of light-weight cloth or flannel.

=Tenterhook willey=—see Mixing picker.

=Tentering=—the process of stretching fabrics, during the operation of finishing, so that they may dry evenly and of a specified width.

=Territory=—wool classification term. See Wool.

=Terry=—a pile fabric in which the loops are uncut; when of cotton or linen, largely used for bath robes, bath towels, etc.

=Terry velvet=—v. with the pile uncut.

=Test=—any means or method of determining quality, strength, etc., of any fabric or textil material, dye, etc. See Cotton t., Linen t., Wool t., etc.

=Testimonials=—voluntary letters written by people who want to see their names in print; sometimes written on request.

=Tete de negre=—textil term for “niggerhead” effects.

=Teufelsdroeckh=—the Herr Professor who enunciated a great theory of clothes. Read (and enjoy) Sartor Resartus.

=Textil=—(a) of or pertaining to weaving or woven fabrics; (n) a woven fabric or material suitable for weaving. (=Textile.=)

=Textil silk=—see Artificial s.

=Textil soap=—general term for s. used for (1) scouring raw wool; (2) scouring yarns, and (3) scouring and fulling of cloth; of different composition, according to the use intended.

=Texture=—the disposition, arrangement, character or quality presented by the threads, filaments or other components of a woven fabric; as loose t., firm t., coarse t., etc.; or in other words, a trade term meaning size and number of threads per inch in a fabric.

=Thatch=—unkempt hair; unshaved face growth.

=Thermos bottle=—a device consisting of a glass bottle contained within a vacuum enclosed by another bottle encased in metal, and suitably sealed when in use, its peculiar properties being that boiling hot liquids may be kept hot in the lowest temperature from 24 to 48 hours, and ice-cold liquids kept cold in tropical weather equally long, making the device of unusual value to tourists, the sick room, etc.

=Thibet=—a soft, smooth, compact, twill woven, woolen cloth, made of wool or cotton warp with wool filling; more elastic and softer than melton, not so nappy as cheviot, often made in imitation of unfinisht worsted, and largely adulterated with shortstaple wool or shoddy; commonly dyed black or navy blue.

=Thick-set=—a sort of stout velveteen or fustian used for working clothes, etc.

=Thimble=—a metal shield worn on one finger by tailors, seamstresses and others, in sewing, for pushing needles thru fabrics.

=Thong=—a slender strip of leather for fastening.

=Thong stitcht=—sewed with rawhide; usually employed in connection with athletic gloves, etc.

=Thoraki=—a peculiar sort of sack-like bloomer trousers, usually of blue cotton, very voluminous at bottom, the legs seemingly protruding thru the corners, worn by Greek peasants.

=Thread-about=—weaving term, meaning that the warp or weft, or more properly both, may be of alternate material, as cotton and linen, silk and linen, silk and wool, cotton-and-wool, etc.

=Thread marks=—when a chopt (cut-out) garment is delivered to a journeyman tailor or operator for making up, he first proceeds to sew thru the two parts, only one of which is markt, with white (or black) thread wherever the cutter has indicated pockets, buttons, seam lines, etc., which when split apart leave both sides (which being cut in duplicate were hitherto markt [in chalk] only on one piece) equally and more permanently markt alike by bits of thread; these bastings, of course, being removed as the garment is completed.

=Threadbare=—worn down to the warp; seedy.

=Three balls=—the arms of everybody’s uncle.

=Three-cockt hat=—see below.

=Three cornered hat=—a h. with brim turned up and fastened to side of crown in three places; first worn in England during reign of William III. Also called three-cockt h. See Continental h.

=Three-eighths=—see Wool.

=Three-seamer=—term used early in last century among English tailors referring to coats made with three principal seams.

=Three-square hat=—same as three-cornered h.

=Throat point=—that part of the shoe where the vamp and the top come together in front of the instep.

=Through-and-through=—see Thru-and-thru.

=Throwing=—the processes (winding, cleaning, doubling, twisting, re-winding, reeling, etc.) of putting raw silk into the threads required for the different kinds of weaving; these threads are known as singles, tram, and organzine (qv).

=Throwster=—a worker in a silk mill.

=Thru-and-thru=—trade term for worsteds in which the pattern shows on the back as well as the face; the opposit of backt cloth; specially indicating finer quality. (=Through-and-through.=)

=Thru-lighting test=—(cotton vs. linen.) When a linen fabric is held between the light and the eyes of the observer, it appears to be striped; cotton cloth is uniform.

=Thrum=—(1) the fringe of warp threads remaining on a loom after the web has been cut off; (2) coarse or waste yarn.

=Thumb cuff=—a metallic article of apparel carried by the police of some cities, conferred upon the party honored by placing over his thumbs and locking same together, being considered neater and more effectiv than handcuffs.

=Thumb test=—a common method of testing the tensil strength of fabrics, the material being taken in both hands and stretcht over the thumbs, which are held close together, and act as a straining or breaking point.

=Tick mitten=—loose m. of stout ticking used by truck drivers, farm laborers, etc.

=Ticket pocket=—see Change p.

=Ticking=—a stout, twilled cotton or linen material, with woven or printed stripes, employed for tents, mattress covers, carpenters’ aprons, etc.

=Tidy=—neat.

=Tie=—see Wig.

=Tie clip=—see Scarf fastener.

=Tied-and-dried=—dyer’s term, indicating that the design or pattern has been achieved by tying the material (silk or cotton cloth, etc.) tightly into knots before immersion into the dye, which results in a solid ground color, having peculiar designs where the dye was unable to penetrate the t. spots.

=Tiftik=—Turkish for mohair.

=Tight roll=—trade term for umbrellas, usually with a light steel rod, and covered with light-weight silk, designed to roll very closely or tight. Also called “close r.”

=Tights=—(1) a skin-fitting garment, preferably of silk, largely worn by actors and acrobats for facilitating action and displaying the form; sometimes covering the body, but more commonly the legs; (2) a tight-fitting undergarment.

=Tights=—one of the old names for knee breeches or “shorts”.

=Tile=—a hat; particularly, a tall silk h.

=Tillet=—a thin linen fabric stiffened with glue and used in the first half of the last century as a stiffening for coat fronts, collars, etc.

=Tin=—used largely in weighting cheap silks.

=Tinsel braid=—any braid of finely spun metal threads, woven in a variety of patterns, used for livery, uniforms, etc.

=Tinsel brocade=—see Brocade.

=Tip=—a protectiv or ornamental cap over the toe of a shoe.

=Tip printer=—one who prints hat tips (qv).

=Tippet=—(1) a long, knit, woolen scarf, worn as a muffler; (2) a fur shoulder cape; (3) a shoulder scarf worn by clergymen in place of a hood (see Amice).

=Titan braid=—see Hercules b.

=Tobacco pouch=—a small bag of soft leather, rubber or other material.

=Tobago=—a palm grown in the West Indies and tropical America, the slender stems of which are used for walking sticks, etc.

=Toboggan cap=—a knitted, woolen c., usually all white or in bright parti-colors, conical in shape, of various lengths, the apex finisht with a tassel, the open-end being folded up one or more times until the effect suits the mind and the head of the wearer; sometimes worn over the ears.

=Toe plate=—(1) see shoe p.; (2) a brass or aluminum cap worn at the outer edge of the toe of a shoe (as baseball s.) for protection.

=Toff=—vernacular for a flashy dresser; a dude. (British.)

=Toga=—an elliptical mantle, about 5 × 4 yards in size, worn doubled and gathered on the left shoulder, so as to hang in broad folds—worn by the old Romans.

=Togged to the nines=—nautical slang for an officer in full dress.

=Toggery=—clothes.

=Togs=—clothes.

=Toile=—French for fabric.

=Toilet=—the process of dressing.

=Toilet paper=—soft, thin, tender, manilla tissue p., readily soluble, for use in water closets.

=Toilet soap=—s. with its constituent greases disguised by high perfumes.

=Toilet water=—a dilute perfume.

=Toilinet=—a stout, closely woven, vesting material, usually of silk or cotton warp with wool filling, plain or loom figured. (=Toilinette.=)

=Tom Astoner=—nautical slang for a gay, dashing fellow.

=Tommyhole=—the accommodation opening in front of a boy’s first pants.

=Toney=—good style; smart; good form.

=Tongs=—trousers or overalls of tow or nativ cloth, worn by farm laborers in Colonial days; nickname for first long t. of boys of Revolutionary times: similar to the pantaloons of 1820.

=Tongue=—a strip of leather, loose or partly or wholly attacht up the sides, for closing the gap of a laced shoe. See Bellows t.

=Tonsorial=—of or pertaining to a barber.

=Tonsure=—the crown of the head shaven, leaving a surrounding fringe.

=Toorie=—the tassel on a Glengarry cap.

=Toothpick=—sometimes used in place of suspender buttons.

=Toothpick collar=—in tailoring a very slender or narrow coat c.

=Toothpick toe=—a very sharp-pointed t.—a shoe fashion now thankfully out of mind.

=Top boots=—b. with high tops, straight or flaring, and frequently of different color leather, sometimes richly decorated; worn by carriage servants, jockeys, sportsmen, and formerly for ostentatious dress, as part of military uniform, etc. See also Jack b.

=Top coat=—a light overcoat.

=Top hat=—a high silk h.; a “topper”.

=Top lift=—the outer or finishing layer of leather on the heel of a shoe.

=Top piece=—the same.

=Top pocket=—a p. in trousers, the opening of which extends in a diagonal line from a point midway between the two front waistband buttons to a point on the side seam a few inches below the waistband.

=Top-shirt=—same as over-s.; a working s.

=Top side=—tailor’s term for the t. or upper part of a pattern, as the t. part of a sleeve.

=Topper=—(1) a “top” or silk hat; (2) a top coat.

=Toppiness=—wool trade term for a sort of uneven felting of fibers at the top of the fleece.

=Tops=—(1) the long, straight fibers of wool—term used during combing process; (2) bundles of 1½ pounds of combed wool ready for spinning.

=Toque=—a knitted conical cap worn in Canada for tobogganing and other winter sports.

=Torpedo beard=—a la Captain Kettle.

=Torrington=—a name given to cotton gloves of a special quality adapted to military or similar use.

=Tortoise shell=—the epidermal plates of the carapace of a testudinate reptil—or—in English—the shell or house of a sea turtle.

=Totem=—a red-skin’s “coat of arms”, the device being painted on the breast. Each tribe and family have different “bearings”, which serve as a name or designation. Generally, totems are representations of animals.

=Toupee=—a little tuft, curl or artificial lock of hair; the top of a periwig; a small wig covering a bald spot.

=Toupee paste=—a gummy substance for making toupees adhere to the scalp.

=Tourist cap=—a round crown cloth c. with a visor and a band that may be turned down, covering the back of the head.

=Tourist coat=—a double-breasted ulster, usually of rough Scotch goods with the regular notcht or peakt collar instead of the typical ulster collar (qv); worn with or without a belt.

=Tourist coating=—general term for heavy Scotch and novelty overcoatings suitable for ulsters, tourist coats, etc.

=Tourist collar bag=—a b. with flat round bottom and soft sides closed at top by draw strings, intended to keep collars clean in suit case, trunk, etc. Usually made of leather and variously trimmed.

=Tourist strap=—an adjustably buckled leather strap, having snap buckles on the two ends; used for carrying small luggage.

=Tourist suit=—a name sometimes given to a s. of tweed or similar goods having a Norfolk jacket instead of a sack coat.

=Tourniquet=—a bandage with a screw or lever attachment, which when applied to a wounded limb stops the flow of blood by external pressure.

=Tow=—inferior flax.

=Tow cloth=—old-time linen homespun.

=Towel=—(1) a cloth, usually of linen, for drying the person after washing; (2) when saturated with ice water a most effectiv headdress for the morning after.

=Town made=—trade term for fabric gloves cut and sewed much after the manner of leather gloves.

=Tracer=—see Tracing wheel.

=Tracing wheel=—a small revolving metal w. with sharp teeth and a suitable handle, used for tracing paper patterns, for making two or more sheets of pattern paper adhere while being cut simultaneously, etc.

=Trade journal=—a daily, weekly or monthly periodical that essays to represent some particular trade or industry.

=Trading stamp=—“something for nothing”, but like all such promises never yet demonstrated; also a joke vehicle for cheap vaudevillians.

=Tram=—woof silk of two or more threads of raw silk slightly twisted.

=Tramp=—a wandering journeyman tailor; a near-hobo.

=Traps=—traveling luggage; personal possessions; movable property.

=Traveling hat=—see Crusher.

=Travers=—French textil term indicating weftwise stripes or ribs.

=Treble-milled=—sheared and finisht three times.

=Trees=—wooden lasts, for shape-retaining purposes, for boots, shoes, gloves, etc.

=Trews=—the ancient Celtic form of “trousers”.

=Tricot=—a closely woven, double-twilled woolen cloth, constructed of two sets of warp threads (one of which is frequently cotton) and one of weft, the weave characterized by faint lines or ribs running either warpwise or weftwise, usually plain dyed.

=Tricot flannel=—a coarse-woven, elastic f.

=Tricot long=—t. in which the rib runs lengthwise. See T.

=Trig=—spruce; fine.

=Trigger finger=—the forefinger of the right hand.

=Trilby=—a soft felt hat with a plush-like surface resembling the old-fashioned “beaver”; in shape a sort of Alpine, but varying with different makers and with the touches given it by individual wearers. (1908.)

=Trimmers=—in clothing manufacturing, the various workpeople who match up fabrics with linings, sewing silk, buttons, etc.

=Trimming buttons=—any b. used decorativly; more specifically, small flat covered b. of from 10 to 24 lines in size, tho satin and velvet b. up to 36 lines are also so called; also round and fancy shapes are so called, tho little used in men’s wear.

=Triplicate mirror=—a m. of three sections (usually framed), connected together and adjustable so that one may see himself in several positions simultaneously.

=Trooper’s uniform=—see the various descriptions of army uniforms, under Full dress, Dress u., White u., Service u., Fatigue u., etc.

=Tropical weight=—trade term for suitings averaging 9 to 11 ounces to the yard. Compare Winter w., Spring w., Summer w., Fall w.

=Trousering=—any woolen or worsted fabric designed especially for trousers, as fancy striped worsteds.

=Trousers=—bifurcated garments for the lower limbs; called “pants” by “gents”; frequently assumed for the good of the service (?) by our better halves. See Broad falls, Narrow falls, Evening dress t., Riding t., Gaiter t., etc. Compare Breeches, Knickerbockers, Pantaloons, etc.

=Trousers=—see Dress t. (=army=); Dungaree t. (=navy=); Full dress t. (=army, navy and marine corps=); Service t. (=army=); White t. (=army=); Evening dress t. (=marine corps=); Undress t. (=marine corps=); Field t. (=marine corps=); Special full dress t. (=marine corps=).

=Trousers stretcher=—a device for keeping t. in shape and wrinkleless by means of tension—and there are many of such devices of varying shapes and utility.

=Trousers stripes=—(=army=) for enlisted men: cavalry, yellow; artillery, scarlet; infantry, white; engineers, scarlet, white piping; ordnance, black, scarlet piping; post quartermaster sergeants, buff; post commissary sergeants, cadet gray; hospital corps, maroon, white piping; signal corps, orange, white piping; West Point service, buff. All non-commissioned officers above rank of corporal wear stripes 1¼ in. wide; corporals ½ in.; musicians and trumpeters 2 stripes each ½ in. wide.

=Trowsers=—old spelling of trousers.

=Troy=—a town in New York where nearly all the collars, cuffs and shirts of commerce are made.

=True lover’s knot=—a kind of double k. with two bows and two ends, as a symbol of constancy or fidelity in love; a k. of ribbon given to be worn in token of love and fidelity.

=Trunk=—an article of traveling luggage, of various shapes, sizes and manufacture; and constituting the chief means of physical culture of baggage smashers.

=Trunk breeches=—see T. hose.

=Trunk hose=—a kind of full breeches, extending to the middle of the thighs, worn in 16th and 17th centuries; invented by James I to hide a deformity of hip disease.

=Trunk strap=—an extra large, heavy, strong leather s. used when trunks are frail or their locks unreliable.

=Trunks=—(1) an article of athletic apparel covering the loins and no more, usually made of velvet and with an elastic waistband; (2) a jersey for covering the body from the waist to the thighs, worn by swimmers, athletes, etc. See Bathing t.

=Truss=—(1) a tight-fitting, padded jacket of 16th century; (2) trousers; (3) drawers.

=Truss=—a metal or rubber spring or belt, with cushioned pad, bandages, straps, etc., worn for preventing or reducing hernias.

=Try-on=—(n) an unfinisht garment ready for the tailor to fit to the customer; (v) to shape, fit and adjust partly made garments to their ultimate wearer.

=Tub=—trade term for washable.

=Tub washt=—term applied to wool fleece broken and washt, more or less, by hand or machinery.

=Tubbing=—a salt water bath in the process of curing furs and leather.

=Tubular=—having the form of a tube, as shoelaces, braids, certain makes of belts, etc.

=Tubular braid=—formed by uniting an even number of threads, half running right to left, half left to right, crossing alternately over and under the threads of the opposing group.

=Tuck=—a flat fold in a fabric; ask your wife to show you the difference between a tuck and a plait.

=Tufftaffeta=—taffeta silk of the long ago (then much heavier than our present-day taffeta) with velvet or plush tufts of nap or raised pile, used for doublets and jerkins.

=Tump line=—the head-band of pack harness used by hunters, prospectors, et al.

=Tunic=—a blouse gathered at the waist or allowed to hang free.

=Tunic=—(1) an undress military coat; (2) the tight-fitting jacket of the British guardsmen.

=Tunic=—(1) a sort of shirt or blouse, reaching to the knees, with short sleeves, usually fastened with a girdle, worn by the ancient Romans; (2) the Greek chiton (qv).

=Tunicle=—a close-fitting vestment worn by sub-deacons, of the same material as the chasuble, reaching to the sleeves and with tight sleeves.

=Tunis hat=—a small cap once worn to distinguish a trade or profession.

=Turban=—(1) a plain cap without visor or brim; usually of velvet or cloth; (2) an oriental head covering consisting of a sash, scarf or shawl twisted about the tarboosh or cap; an innocent vanity of colonial gentlemen, worn with banyan gown when the wig was removed at home, often of velvet and other rich materials, high colored and fanciful.

=Turkish yarn=—y. made of the hair of the Angora goat; also called camlet y.

=Turks’ satin=—see S. Turk.

=Turn-down collar=—see Prussian c.

=Turn list=—a l. kept in dull seasons, by some manufacturing concerns or employers, of work to be done and of workpeople, so that the latter may, each in his turn, be given his share of what work is on hand.

=Turn-over=—the turned-in extremity of trouser legs and sleeves. Compare Turn-up.

=Turn-over collar=—same as Prussian c.

=Turn-up=—(1) the outwardly folded cuffs on the bottoms of trousers legs; (2) the ordinary turned-under hem on ditto, which if folded up is considered a sign of rain in London.

=Turncoat=—clothing terms are sometimes wofully prostituted.

=Turned sole=—a shoe without an inner s., the uppers of which are sewn to a channel cut into the s. while turned inside out. When sewn, the shoe is soaked in water until flexible and then turned right side out, hence the name.

=Turner’s pants=—athletic trousers of light-weight flannel with foot straps.

=Turniket=—see Tourniquet.

=Turnip=—slang for watch, especially the old-fashioned bulbous kind.

=Turnip pants=—trousers brought out during the late bicycle craze, convertible from ordinary business trousers to cycling knickers and vice versa. (Proprietary name.)

=Turtle neck=—term applied to knitted sweaters having an extra long collar or n. which is turned down or folded over several times. Compare V n.

=Tusseh silk=—a fine, brilliant s. fabric, very strong, woven from s. obtained from the tusseh s. worm of India, bred on the jujube tree.

=Tuxedo=—see Dinner jacket.

=Tuxedo alpine=—a soft or a. hat for semi-formal dress wear, made of or covered with silk.

=Tuxedo derby=—a d. hat for semi-formal dress wear, made of or covered with silk.

=Tuxedo hat=—same as above. Also see Dress derby.

=Tweed=—general name for twill woven all-wool fabrics of soft open texture, rather loose and coarse in appearance but of good weight, having loom-made patterns in stripes, checks and plaids. Originally made in Scotland, but now everywhere. See Waulking.

=Twentieth century cutting=—a style of diamond c. differing from brilliant c. (qv) in not having a flat table or face, but with the crown facets brought to a point for greater brilliancy.

=Twig=—a riding whip or crop.

=Twill=—any textil fabric in which the weft threads do not pass over and under the warp in alternate succession, as in plain weaving, but regularly in a varying arrangement as over one and under two, three, four, etc. Technically known as two leaf, three leaf, four leaf t., etc. See encyclopedia.

=Twilled=—woven in such manner as to produce lines or ribs diagonally or across the surface of the fabric. See above.

=Twills=—old Scotch name for tweed.

=Twist=—English (trade) term for warp (qv).

=Twist=—see Buttonhole t.

=Twist stitch=—same as Cord s.

=Twist wig=—see Wig.

=Twisted=—tailoring term indicating that a coat sleeve, a trouser leg, etc., is put in badly so as to shift sidewise out of line.

=Twisted=—same as damask or jowhir—read a technical work for description of the process.

=Twists=—trade term for woolen and worsted fabrics woven of yarns that are of two colors doubled and twisted together, giving a mottled appearance to the pattern effect, as in Bannockburns, Drummond worsteds, etc.

=Twitty=—mill term for uneven yarns.

=Two-hole=—trade term for buttons pierced with 2 holes or eyes.

=Two-piece vamp=—a v. composed of two pieces of upper leather.

=Two-year serge=—a specially good quality of serge featured by a large tailoring firm in London, England, which guarantees it to give two years’ wear, whence name.

=Tyrolean hat=—a sort of alpine or fedora h., soft felt, of a green color, having the bow of the band behind and a feather flaunting therein.

U

=Ulster=—a long, loose, heavy overcoat for rough or cold weather wear, usually double-breasted.

=Ulster collar=—a very deep c. made with an extra upward cut or notch at the apex of the notch at the step, the purpose being that the coat may be buttoned close up to the throat while the c. may be lapt over itself and stand straight upward from the throat point, which is not possible with any other style of c.

=Ultra=—extreme; verging on vulgarity; dangerously near being contemptuous.

=Umbrel=—vernacular for umbrella.

=Umbrella=—an article of luxury and convenience with a penchant for changing owners.

=Umpire’s mask=—a face guard of wire and leather, worn as a protection against thrown or batted balls and pop-bottles; usually lighter than a catcher’s m.

=Unbasted=—trade term for the process of sewing garments together without the parts being previously basted together, and for the garments so made; likewise applied to the workpeople who sew in this manner.

=Unclad=—unclothed.

=Uncle=—a custodian of overcoats and jewelry—per consideration.

=Under lining=—the inside lining inside or “back” of a vest.

=Under-part=—tailoring term for the lower or under side of a pattern, as the under part of a sleeve.

=Under weight=—not up to sample (as of woolen fabrics not as heavy as claimed); less than contract requirements.

=Underbasting=—in clothes manufacture, the operation of basting facings and linings to the foreparts of coats as received from the underpressers and straighteners.

=Underclothing=—those most intimate.

=Undercoat=—a body c.; a suit c.

=Undercollar=—tailoring term for the underside of a coat collar, usually, but not necessarily, made of a different and softer cloth (vide infra).

=Undercollar cloth=—a thin, pliable plain woven c. with little or no inclination to ravel; a variety of melton or ladies-c.; used for working the underside of coat collars.

=Undergraduate’s gown=—a long, loose g. of black stuff, ordinarily with pointed sleeves.

=Underpresser=—a workman who does underpressing (qv).

=Underpressing=—in clothing manufacture, the act of taking a partly made garment (as a coat in which the outer seams have been closed, pockets fitted, interlinings and padding put in place, etc.) and subjecting it to ironing under heavy mechanical pressure. Compare First p. and After p.

=Undershirt=—a garment worn next the hide.

=Underside=—see Under-part.

=Undertaker’s cloth=—see Casket c.

=Underwaist=—a boy’s undergarment with buttons for holding up drawers, trousers, etc.

=Undress=—in livery, whipcord service garments.

=Undress=—(=navy=) the prescribed attire for all ordinary occasions. Generally designated blue u. and white u. For chief petty officers, except bandmasters, officers’ stewards and officers’ cooks: blue flannel or serge coat, and trousers, blue cap, white shirt and collar or blue flannel shirt (blue flannel or serge waistcoat permitted; also clothing that has been long in use as dress may be worn for undress); (white u.: same as for dress). For bandsmen: blue u. coat, blue cloth trousers, blue u. cap; (white u.: white coat and trousers, cap with white cover). For all other enlisted men: blue overshirt, blue cloth or flannel trousers, blue cap, neckerchief, knife lanyard (seaman branch only); (white u.: white u. jumper, white u. trousers, white hat, neckerchief, knife lanyard (seaman branch only).

=Undress A=—(=navy=) the uniform to be worn when reporting for duty, when serving on courts or boards and upon various occasions of ceremony. Consists of—for all commissioned officers: frock coat, u. trousers (white may be prescribed), blue cap (white cap or helmet if prescribed), shoulder straps, sword and u. belt (except for chaplains), scarf, white gloves; for midshipmen, warrant officers, mates and clerks, the same, without shoulder straps.

=Undress B=—(=navy=) the same as “Undress A”, without sword or belt. To be worn when calling on foreign officers other than commanding officers; at informal day receptions; on the deck of a vessel going in or out of port. (In hot weather white service dress may be ordered.)

=Undress belt=—(=navy=) for officers, a b. of plain black grain leather, with mountings as per regulation.

=Undress breeches=—(=marine corps=) for officers, same as full dress b.

=Undress cap=—(=marine corps=) a c. similar to the full dress c., but ½ in. less in hight. For major general commandant: a 1½ in. band of blue-black velvet; vertical 9 rows of 3 lines of ⅛ in. black silk tubular braid from edge of band to top of c. in front, back and on each side with a knot of 4 double loops of same braid on top of c.; a chin-cord of gold wire attacht to marine corps buttons, the visor ornamented with oak leaves embroidered in gold bullion, ornament of corps device set in gold acorn leaves. For all other officers: the same except that the band is of lustrous black mohair braid, the ornament to be without the gold acorn leaves, and the visor unornamented. For non-commissioned officers, drummers, trumpeters and privates: of dark blue cloth, 3¼ in. high in front, 3 in. high behind, bell shaped crown, 1⅝ in. black patent leather visor dropt 60° from horizontal, enameled leather chin strap; other details per specifications. For leader of the band, same as prescribed for commissioned officers of the corps. For second leader and musicians, same as prescribed for other enlisted men, except that the c. is covered between welts with flat black mohair braid. For drum-major, same as prescribed for other non-commissioned officers. Summer u.: for leader of band, of white duck, same as prescribed for commissioned officers; for second leader, drum-major and musicians, same as prescribed for other enlisted men.

=Undress coat=—(=navy=) for bandsmen, a half-fitting single-breasted c. of dark blue flannel with 7 gilt buttons, closing to the neck, standing collar, the coat pipe-edged down the front, around the bottom, at base of collar, shoulder straps, etc., with scarlet cloth; insignia as per regulation. Same c. is worn by enlisted men in the marine corps.

=Undress coat=—(=marine corps=) for major general commandant and all officers: a sack c. of dark blue cloth, single-breasted, cut half close, the side seams vented, standing collar (of dark blue velvet for major general commandant), trimmed across breast with black mohair tubular braid, black frogs and black stuft crochet buttons; trimmings, devices, etc., as per regulations. Also a white c. of drill or duck, single-breasted sack style, cut semi-fitting, with four outside patch pockets, trimmed per regulations. For non-commissioned officers, drummers, trumpeters and privates, a single-breasted sack c. of dark blue flannel, cut half close without center seam in back, in length reaching to the crotch, fastened with 7 marine corps buttons, standing collar; the c. pipt down front, around the bottom, base of collar, shoulder and sleeve straps with scarlet flannel, with other details as prescribed. For summer u., a single-breasted sack c. of white linen of same pattern and style as prescribed for field c. (qv), with brass buttons. For leader of band, of dark blue cloth, cut and trimming the same as prescribed for first lieutenant. For second leader of band, the same as prescribed for enlisted men of the line, with exceptions in trimming, etc. For musicians, same as prescribed for enlisted men of the line. For drum-major, same as prescribed for other enlisted men. Summer undress c. for leader, same as prescribed for commissioned officers of marine corps; for second leader, drum-major and musicians, same as prescribed for other enlisted men of the corps.

=Undress jumper=—(=navy=) same as dress j. (qv) but made entirely of white, unbleacht drill, and with sleeves without fitting cuffs; worn as prescribed for dress.

=Undress sword belt=—(=marine corps=) for all officers and leader of the band “of fair leather, not stuft russet”, 1¾ inches wide, with detachable slings to match, trimmings of dull bronze metal.

=Undress trousers=—(=navy=) of dark blue cloth or serge, with plain seams.

=Undress trousers=—(=marine corps=) for major general commandant and all other officers, blue and white, as prescribed for full dress. For non-commissioned officers, drummers, trumpeters and privates, the same as prescribed for full dress. For summer u., of white linen, as furnished by Quartermaster’s department. For leader of the band, same as prescribed for full dress for officers of the line. For second leader and drum-major, same as prescribed for non-commissioned officers. For musicians, same as full dress except a single ³⁄₁₆ inch welt of scarlet cloth on outer seams. Summer u., for leader and all other members of band, white linen as furnished by Quartermaster’s department.

=Undress uniform=—(=marine corps=) by officers: to be habitually worn on duty, unless other u. is prescribed, when reporting for duty on or appearing before courts or boards, and when calling upon officials of our own or of a foreign service, or when associated with officers of the navy who are in u. A or B or service dress; by enlisted men: habitually on or off duty when other u. is not prescribed; by members of the band: likewise. Consists of, for all officers: u. coat (blue or white), blue or white u. cap (or white helmet), full dress or white trousers, sword with white slings (or of leather if worn over blue coat), and u. sword knot, white gloves, white standing collar (with blue coat), black shoes; when mounted: dark blue riding breeches, drab leather gloves, black boots with spurs; at drills and exercises, on marches and in the field, white gloves may be dispensed with by order of commanding officer and russet leather leggings or puttees may be ordered. For all enlisted men (including non-commissioned officers, drummers and trumpeters): u. coat (blue or white), blue cap or white helmet, blue or white trousers, white gloves, black leather shoes (russet with white trousers if prescribed), white cap cover over blue cap if prescribed, arms and accouterments as ordered. Bandsmen (including leader and drum-major), u. coat (blue or white), blue or white trousers, blue cap or white helmet, sword with u. belt and knot (leader only), white gloves, black leather shoes (russet with white trousers if prescribed), white cap cover over blue cap if prescribed, accouterments as ordered.

=Undress waistcoat=—(=navy=) a single-breasted, high buttoning w. of dark blue cloth or serge or of white linen duck or similar material, without collar, closing with 6 small navy buttons. For chaplains the same, but with plain black or white buttons.

=Undrest kid=—see Suede. (=Undressed.=)

=Unfinisht=—trade term for fabrics that are not sheared or milled and have a slight nap or roughness. (=Unfinished.=)

=Unfinisht serge=—s. that has not been sheared, closely resembling u. worsted.

=Unfinisht worsted=—a soft, dull finisht, twilled cloth, woven similarly to serge, sparingly sheared so as to leave a soft nap.

=Uniform=—livery distinguishing the members of military, naval or civil bodies or societies and employes of clubs, corporations, etc. Compare Livery.

=Uniform A=—(=army=) full dress; (=navy=) special full dress; (=marine corps=) special full dress; worn whenever on occasions of ceremony officers of both services are required to appear together in uniform, at the White House, etc.

=Uniform B=—(=army=) dress; (=navy=) service dress; (=marine corps=) undress; worn as stated above in Uniform A and as otherwise prescribed.

=Uniform buttons=—all metal or other b. for police, fire, military, conductors, society or other uniforms, stamped with insignia, monograms, etc.

=Uniform bag=—a b. of canvas, leather, or both, for carrying baseball or other uniforms; usually constructed on the roll-up pattern.

=Uniform C=—(=army=) full dress or evening u.; (=navy=) evening dress A; (=marine corps=) special full dress; worn as prescribed on occasions as stated above in Uniform A.

=Uniform C=—(=navy=) the same as evening dress A but with white waistcoat in place of blue; prescribed at discretion of senior officer.

=Uniform cloth=—(1) a stout, well fulled, woolen c., similar to kersey, commonly dyed in navy blue and shades of gray, etc., used for police, mail and railroad u.; (2) any c. suitable for uniforms.

=Uniform roll=—a blanket-like sort of carry-all of waterproof canvas, with pockets, straps and handle, largely used by army, marine corps, baseball players, etc.

=Uniform tailor=—one who makes a specialty and whose business consists largely if not entirely of the making of army, navy, band, police, fire and other uniforms and livery.

=Union cassimere=—a men’s wear fabric woven with a cotton warp and a woolen or shoddy weft, of a quality with satinet (qv) but with a woven instead of a printed pattern. See Cassimere.

=Union goods=—trade term for fabrics woven of different yarns. See U. cassimere, U. linen, etc.

=Union label=—neither a little thing to look for nor a great thing to find.

=Union labor=—unobjectionable if “kept in its place”, but nevertheless the only means of bringing many an arrogant, arbitrary, slave-driving employer to his senses.

=Union linen=—a fabric of cotton warp and linen weft.

=Union made=—not made by free workmen.

=Union silk=—fabrics of s.-and-linen, s.-and-lisle, s.-and-wool, used largely for umbrellas.

=Union suit=—an undergarment combining in one piece drawers and shirt.

=Union tannage=—a combination of the oak and hemlock bark processes.

=Unmerchantable=—term applied to wool partially washt on the sheep’s back but not sufficiently to be clast as “washt” (qv).

=Unpluckt=—furs with the long, stiff hairs not removed, as natural seal.

=Unpluckt seal=—wool or fur s. with the long guard hairs left in. Same term applies to other furs, as otter, etc.

=Unspottable=—trade term for broadcloths and other fabrics finisht by a waterproofing process so that rain will not leave spots or soil marks.

=Untwisting test=—(cotton vs. linen) cotton threads when untwisted disclose a number of entangled fibers, while in linen yarn treated the same way the fibers are much nearer parallel.

=Unwasht=—same as “in the grease”.

=Up-and-down stitch=—in tailoring, any s. that is pulled thru before the next one is taken. A prick s. or side s. may be an up-and-down s. and the button s. is decidedly one.

=Up-to-date=—the man who has bought this book.

=Upland=—cotton grown in the inland districts of the Southern States.

=Upper=—that part of a shoe covering the foot proper.

=Upper Benjamin=—a livery coat with a series of shoulder capes; usually of waterproof box cloth.

=Upper ten=—rather more exclusiv than “the 400”.

=Uppers= (=to walk on one’s=)—poor; shabby.

=Urinal bag=—a long, light, rubber b. with straps for attaching to leg and waist; worn by persons afflicted with bladder weakness.

=Usher=—polite name for floorwalker.

=Utica=—a popular brand of shirting muslin.