Chapter X: Part 10

We got one of these women to prepare coffee for us, and with the remnant of our cold victuals made a very respectable breakfast. Some of the party had partaken so freely of sugar-cane, that it became a subject of discussion as to the bill for damages that might be brought against the consumers of the products of this man’s farm.

After descending two miles further, we stopped at a farm of Senor Ferreira, where there is a building for a residence, including the machinery for a rice-mill. Here we saw corn growing tolerably well, and also rice and sugar-cane of fair quality; but the cultivation of the land showed but little more care than at the other place. It is evident that this property, which he desires to sell, has induced him to confine his arrangements to an examination of the few points worthy of notice along this river. But we saw enough here to convince us that the country is not adapted to our purposes.

Mr. Jackson bought at this house two otter skins for fifty cents each, the boy declining to take the price until we got some distance from the house, when he came running after us with the skins, asking for the money.

In going down the river several shots were fired with pistols at water-birds, a ligarto, &c., but there was no execution done by any of the party.

At one point on the margin of the river we saw several parties preparing to embark in canoes, with stores of various kinds, intended to serve them in visiting the villa during the approaching festival.

Following after us were two canoes, in each of which a woman was assisting to paddle while standing up, and seemed to be accustomed to this kind of service. Already a number of people from the surrounding country have arrived with their supplies, bringing even their fuel in the canoes, and they live in freedom from all restraint, after camp style, during their sojourn at the place. These festas are religious ceremonies, without much show of solemnity, in which mass is said, and is followed by sky-rockets and fire-works of various kinds. Then comes the banquet by the festeiro, and such other festivities as the occasion may suggest, or the people desire for recreation.

After reaching the landing at Conceicão we assisted in drawing the huge canoe from the water upon rollers of wood, and thus taking it upon the beach beyond the ordinary rise of the water. Here lay quite a number of similar vessels of these people awaiting their further movements upon the water.

We brought down with us a supply of the palmetto, which is prepared by stripping off the outer layer, until the central tender and white stem alone remains. This is then chipped off from the end by a knife, and boiled or stewed with a little fresh meat, and seasoned with pepper and salt, making one of the best vegetables I have eaten in Brazil. The portion used is about a yard long, presenting a green exterior, and found at the top of the trunk of the palmetto, (a species of palm,) with the leaves spreading out at its upper extremity. There are the sweet and bitter, of which the latter is particularly good for the stomach.

THURSDAY, _December 7, 1865_.

It being understood that the cart was to be ready for us to start upon our return at six o’clock this morning, we rose and got a cup of coffee shortly after five o’clock a. m. But, on repairing to the cart, it was found that the mules were not even caught from the open common in which they had been grazing, and that it would be necessary to find them before they could be harnessed for the trip.

As Senor Ferreira did not make his appearance, we sent a messenger for him, and in the mean time, the head man of the trio who paddled the canoe up the river presented his account. He was informed that this would be settled, with any other claims which might be rendered, through Senor Urcezino Antonio Ferreira, for services received by our party during this trip.

Up to this time, we had no means of knowing our true relations to this personage, and were doubtful whether to consider ourselves the guests of a gentleman who had taken charge of us at the request of his friend the vicar at Santos, or were to regard this man as simply a business agent to procure what might be required on our account.

This question was summarily solved by the presentation of an account, by him, for all accommodations afforded us, as follows:

Carriage from Santos to São Vincente $4 00
Passage in canoes from São Vincente 2 00
Eating breakfast at São Vincente 2 00
Lunch and porterage on the way 3 00
Boating up and down river 5 00
Eating at Conceicão 5 00
Transportation on the beach 20 00
——————
$41 00[24]

In addition to this, the servants at the house were paid two dollars and fifty cents for their attention; and thus it is hoped and believed that all obligations are cancelled to this Senor Urcezino Antonio Ferreira, of Conceicão.

It is proper to remark, that the cart and mules used for our transportation on the beach were the property of this individual, and that the turn out was kept for the purpose of making money out of the passengers on this route along the beach.

Colonel Albuquerque, having arrived during the night, called to see us while awaiting the slow movements of our postilion; and I was pleased to find that he spoke some English, as did each of his three sons, who had gone a voyage on the Onward, with Captain Clark, who married their sister. The Colonel, thinking of our needs during the day, sent us a box containing a chicken, some Dutch cheese, biscuits, grapes, and a bottle of excellent port wine, which afforded a good repast on the beach. Though our acquaintance was slight, and he was merely sojourning here temporarily with his family, yet he extended that consideration to us which has characterized the bearing of all Brazilian gentlemen heretofore.

The Catholic priest had called to see us at our quarters, and gave us a passing call this morning, when proceeding on some professional duty in the vicinity of our rendezvous.

There is a large church besides the convent in this place. The buildings are chiefly in one straight row, and a few for a short distance on the opposite side, with a sorry and woe-be-gone population not exceeding twenty-five or thirty families, doing but little business.

The mules being at length in readiness we made a start with a team of four at 9 o’clock A. M., but only proceeded a short distance when the double-tree in front was broken, and it became necessary to proceed with but three mules. On reaching the beach the lead mule became unmanageable and ran into the sea, taking the others and cart so far that upon the return of the waves from the tide we were likely to go afloat, thus facilitating our transportation rather more than was desirable.

This trouble was corrected for the future by placing a man, who accompanied the driver, astride of the front mule, but the great difficulty of slow movement was not so easily overcome, though he was supplied with a pair of our spurs, and both these drivers plied the rod most vigorously upon the animals.

I counted the number of blows inflicted upon one of these beasts within five minutes at two different periods, and they averaged ten to the minute; which for five hours, the term of the trip, would make the round sum of three thousand lashes received by this mule.

Our postilions were German sailors and both spoke some English, so that we could communicate with them. After an interruption in our voyage by some derangement of the rigging, they both got into position for advancing, and Alberta Deyer, who was on the driver’s seat, called out to Lewis Thompson, who rode the front mule, “Now take your course south by half west, and make sail—vamos.” With these two high-pressure oscillating engines we made about three knots an hour; and for a time all of us were quite amused at the extraordinary proceedings of these fellows, but eventually it became a most serious matter, and nothing could urge our lazy and jaded beasts out of a walk. I remonstrated with the drivers not to inflict further punishment upon the animals, as the blood was already to be seen in various parts, not only from the spurs but from the heavy blows of the poles used by these athletic sons of the ocean.

At length we reached the point where the road turns from the beach, and it was questionable whether the mules could go any further; but it continued to rain, and it was desirable to remain under cover as long as any progress could be made in the cart.

We had gone however a very short distance when some mismanagement of our helmsman brought the wheels on one side almost into a very deep ditch, and the mule next to the ditch, with the instinct of self-preservation, which is characteristic of that animal, leaped with its fore feet over the tongue. There was imminent danger of being upset, and all hurried out, with our baggage in our hands, determined to proceed on foot. A bottle of rum had been got on the way, to counteract the soaking rain upon the drivers, and giving them another drink they were left to exercise their sailors’ ingenuity to avert shipwreck of their craft.

Walking nearly three miles we crossed the Bertioga again in a canoe, and upon reaching São Vincente[25] hired horses for one dollar and a half each, to ride eight miles, into Santos. It was very dark, and some of the road very rough, but all got through safely.

Dr. Shaw and Major Meriwether stopped at the hotel, while I assisted Mr. Jackson in taking the horses to a pasture at Mr. Wright’s; and getting supper we congratulated ourselves that the trip to Conceicão was ended.

FRIDAY, _December 8, 1865_.

Having spent the night with my friend Wright, I arose early and went to the Hotel Milan, where my comrades were quartered, finding Senor Street had returned from São Paulo. My telegram was received by him, but he stated that it would be impracticable for him to proceed through the country, and that Mr. N. Bennaton had gone to Rio de Janeiro, with the expectation of returning on the 11th inst. A letter was found here from him, proposing that we wait until he could join us, to make the tour from São Paulo through the country. But in view of all the facts we concluded to avail ourselves of the boat expected daily to proceed to Cananea; and after examining the lands adjacent to the Ribeira de Ignape, to return to this point, and go thence to São Paulo, to make the trip to the country lying between the Tieté river and the serra to the eastward.

We made a reconnoissance this morning of a lot of land in the city belonging to Commendador Ferreira, which he proposes to sell. It extends from the water at the lime-factory, in a solid oblong body, lying between two streets.

The measurement made by stepping was five hundred and fifty (550) yards in length and three hundred and fifteen (315) yards in breadth; with a portion of irregular shape not measured, extending to the water. For this it is understood that his price is ten thousand (10,000) dollars.

There is another portion of vacant land belonging to the same gentleman located between that described and the water street on the front of the city.

This measures four hundred (400) yards in length, two hundred and thirty (230) yards wide at one end, and one hundred (100) yards or thereabouts in width, at the other end. The breadth corresponds very nearly to the greater measurement through half of the lot, and then slopes to that of the smaller, making it somewhat irregular in shape. This has a water front with a street, which is bounded by a rock wall as a barrier to the tide, and here is afforded very desirable sites for building.

Should he be willing to include this with the sale of the other, it would make a very valuable property for those who may wish a city investment.

That Santos will improve greatly in a few years is confidently anticipated, and lands within the city limits, such as these, must increase in value.

Mr. Wright accompanied us in visiting the lime-factory already mentioned as located at the edge of the water at the northern portion of the city; in which the shells and deposits of a calcareous nature from the island are worked up into a beautiful white lime. There is a small steam-engine for working the ventilating apparatus, which acts upon the furnace, and the fuel being placed beneath the mass of materials a heat is generated which transforms the shell into the gray crude lime.

After this process is completed, the mass is removed to the open chamber of the building, and parcel by parcel is sprinkled with water and placed in a pile, which developes warmth so great that the hand cannot bear it, thus producing the lime in ordinary use under the name of slacked lime. It presents a fine aspect, with all the other indications of a good quality of this article. There is no limestone near this place, and hence the shell is made available for lime.

We also visited the tannery located in the suburbs of the city near the margin of the coast on the north. It is by no means so neat as the one described in Rio de Janeiro, and the want of any systematic disposition of the refuse parts of the hides leaves them to create a stench about the place which attracts a number of buzzards.

The articles used chiefly for astringents in the tanning process are the same as observed in Rio; the leaf and bark of the manque manse and the manque bravo, which grow promiscuously over the extensive tidewater lowlands near this city. There is in connection with this tannery a rude lime-factory, which produces from the burning of shell the lime required for use at this place.

In examining the specimens of sole leather that were piled up under an open shed, the process of tanning seemed to be very thorough; and though there is not that care and attention bestowed which would insure the best results, yet this business has proved profitable to the proprietor. He has a small steamboat which is used for bringing in his materials for tanning, his raw-hides from the city, and in delivering his leather for shipment, or any other service connected with his operations. This diminutive craft makes regular trips also to Cubitão, connecting with the diligence line to São Paulo; and is frequently hired for excursions, thus making a nice little income, besides serving all the purposes of transportation for the tannery.

Mr. Wright tried to procure this small steamer for our party to visit Perique to-morrow, but found that it was engaged, and that it could not take us until Sunday.

Dr. Shaw and Major Meriwether were invited by Mr. Wright to dine at his house to-day, it being the birthday of his elder son, Billy. His father-in-law, mother-in-law, and sister-in-law were also present on the occasion; and we were all favorably impressed and very much pleased with the performance on the piano by Mrs. Wright and her sister. Most of our Southern songs are played by Mrs. Wright, but really there are so few of them in keeping with the result of our struggle, that we feel but little interest in hearing them now.

In going out upon the street after dark with Mr. Wright, we observed there were some exercises at the Roman Catholic church; and upon entering, we found that a number of persons, principally females, were kneeling for mass; while vocal and instrumental music added interest to the scene. It was a day of some festival.

As we returned we met on the pavement at the entrance of a house Senor Manoel Pinto Soares; and soon afterwards his wife Donna Flora came down prepared for a walk. As they were going in the same direction with us, Mr. Wright devolved it upon me to escort the lady, and upon going forward with her, Senor Manoel suggested that she take my arm, whereupon I tendered her this assistance, which was accepted by her.

Though I could command but a meagre supply of the Portuguese language for conversation, I arranged my words so as to be understood, and her remarks were also comprehended, so that there was but little embarrassment. My observation has now satisfied me that ladies in refined society receive the same kind of attention from gentlemen as is customary with us.

SATURDAY, _December 9, 1865_.

Dr. Shaw and Major Meriwether spent the night with me at Mr. Wright’s, and a cup of coffee being served to us very early we set out before 6 o’clock to the canoe of Senor Antonio Franco in company with Senor Street, for a trip across the water.

Mr. Wright’s double-barrelled fine English gun was taken along by the Major, and he had an opportunity of shooting at an alligator, (jacaré,) but it made its escape into the water.

Upon approaching the site of Senor Bastos, the canoe entered a sort of canal leading up into the land, and we then disembarked and walked a few hundred yards over a level, low, marshy plain to the house. Rice was seen upon one side presenting a healthy aspect; while on the other was a garden-spot that has received more than the usual attention, yet the vegetables did not look flourishing.

Vegetables do not usually grow well with us in any kind of soil without some artificial stimulus; and the art of manuring is almost unknown to these people, so that it is rare to see good vegetables.

The sugar-cane was also growing at a short distance from our path, but is a small variety with short joints, having a red or purple aspect, that is cultivated only for cachaça, (rum.) I infer from the specimen seen that the land has not the requisite fertility to produce the best cane.

The house upon this place is a large one-story building, having the rice and sugar apparatus under the same roof, worked by water-power. Most of the territory is mountainous and of little fertility; but the flat lands with proper management might be rendered productive and profitable.

SUNDAY, _December 10, 1865_.

I acquiesced in the arrangement for taking a voyage in the steamer to-day, though it was the Sabbath.

We visited the extensive establishment known here as Perique, in company with the proprietor, Senor Valencia, some twenty miles distant from the city of Santos.

The houses and grounds have been recently overhauled and renovated, presenting an attractive combination of extensive buildings, with a beautiful beach and delightful sea-breeze. The dwelling has eighteen rooms, besides a large dining-saloon and ample corridors, presenting an air of comfort that is rarely met with anywhere. There are also outhouses suited for the quarters of laborers and for all other purposes required on a fazenda.

We saw a portion of the land that would be well adapted to the cultivation of any of the staples, but this was not of large extent; and a great portion of it is low and marshy, so as not to suit any thing but rice. The entire territory is represented as containing sixteen square miles, and I should not think that more than two square miles is sufficiently fertile to repay for cultivation, a part being unfitted for use by reason of the serras and a part by the marsh.

This place and its present proprietor have been rendered somewhat famous by a hostile collision on his part with the English marines under Captain Croft, in 1850; who landed here under orders to suppress the slave-trade conducted through this port of entry.

Senor Valencia collected thirty-seven negroes and thirteen whites, with guns, and after being fired upon, they poured a volley into the ranks of the marines, which caused them to return to their vessel. He states that this body of troops had previously gone to another improved place on this land and burned several houses; and that he supposed it to be their purpose to burn these large buildings on the beach. He determined to resist their further destruction of his property, and secreting this force on the route by which he supposed the marines would approach the house, an elevated position was taken by him where he could watch their movements.

It was understood by his men that, upon a signal from him with a cow-horn, they were to use their weapons against the invaders. As the marines approached their position, one of the negroes becoming curious to see what was going on, rose up to look and was immediately shot in the head by the marines; whereupon, a blast from the horn induced them to return the fire promptly and with effect. One man was known to have been killed, and the signs of blood upon the spot and along the line of retreat gave evidence of the fire of his domestic guard.

Senor Valencia was subsequently demanded by the English government, and had to leave the country to avoid capture. He has spent most of the time since in Montevideo, until his interests there being ruined by the operations of the war with Paraguay, induced him to apply to the Emperor of Brazil for permission to return. He came back in June of this year, finding every thing about this place in disorder, and has endeavored to bring it again in workings condition with a view to dispose of it. It affords fine facilities for fishing, and might be made profitable in supplying the Santos market.

MONDAY, _December 11, 1865_.

We visited the factory of brick and tile on the main land beyond the bay, two miles distant from the city. It is the most complete, in all appliances, which I have seen anywhere, having a steam-engine to work up the mortar preparatory to moulding, and having a patent compressing apparatus that gives a neat smooth surface to the brick while it imparts solidity and firmness to the entire mass. The furnaces are constructed of stone and faced with fireproof brick, having a general finish which is rarely seen in such establishments.

I was particularly impressed with the simplicity of the tile-making. The mortar was first spread upon a flat board by the hand of a stout negro fellow, and then another passed a scraper over this, to remove the superfluous layer, when a third turned it upon the convex mould which gives it the proper shape, and bears it to a shelf, upon which it remains until sufficiently dry to be put into the furnace for the action of the fire.

In addition to the above-named articles there are also manufactured here various household wares, such as water tanks, or jars of very large size for keeping in public or private houses, earthen bottles shaped like demijohns, bowls, stew-pans, and which are used in place of metal vessels very generally.

The material used is a combination of the clay taken from the hillside with the mud of the low land, and while neither separately would be well adapted to the purpose, this mixture makes an excellent mortar for moulding and burning. There is not a large quantity of brick or tile on hand, but some of all the varieties of style and size, showing the capacity of the establishment to meet any demand.

Upon inquiring the price of the brick I was told that for the smaller size, nine inches by three inches, the cost was twenty-five dollars per thousand; for the larger, twelve inches by four inches, thirty dollars per thousand; and for flooring brick ten inches square, fifty dollars per thousand. The last-named is a broad, square, thin tile brick with a figure impressed upon it, which is decorative in fitting up the basement of houses or paving fancy walks in a yard or open court. It is not very likely that the above prices will encourage the builders of houses to change from their old style of mud walls; and really if some of our people, who know how to manufacture brick upon an economical scale, would come here and enter largely into the business, it must prove very profitable to them, while it would be a great advantage to those erecting houses in Santos.

The compressing machines are of English make, under the patent of Clayton & Co., and are worked by hand. The steam-engine for working up the mortar is from the works of Maler & Co., located at Rio de Janeiro.

There is a canal connecting the factory with the bay which greatly facilitates transportation. A tank or well in the yard under shelter affords a supply of water for mixing the mortar, while there is a fountain of pure and cool water coming from the mountain side through a pipe into a large marble receiver in the open air.

Captain Buhlaw arrived in the city to-day from Cananea, and represents the lands of superior quality, while the transportation by water is available on all sides of the territory. He states that the soil is dark and the trees are large, without much undergrowth of shrubbery.

TUESDAY, _December 12, 1865_.

Upon the arrival of the Santa Maria from Rio de Janeiro I went aboard with Captain Balbi, who invited me to take a seat in his boat, and found Mr. Bennaton there with instructions from the Minister of Agriculture to accompany us on our tour from São Paulo across the country. He stated that he could go now, and might not be able to accompany us if we delayed to make the trip to Cananea by water. I asked him if he thought it would be practicable to reach the country lying upon the tributaries of the Ribeira de Ignape and belonging to Cananea by going across from São Paulo upon mules; when he gave it as his opinion that we could make the trip, and said that he would advise us to adopt that course.

As this concurred with the view I had when the telegram was sent to Senor Street at São Paulo, and the boat upon which we expected to proceed might be still further delayed, I advised Dr. Shaw and Major Meriwether that it would be better to pursue the course above indicated. It was accordingly arranged that Mr. Bennaton would go on to São Paulo to-day and that we should go to-morrow, it being understood with Senor Street that we would meet him at Xiririca, on the Ribeira de Ignape, so that he might assist us in the examination of the country. As Senor Street had already gone to the trouble to arrange for our visit by steamer, he was not satisfied that we should abandon that plan, but with the advice of Mr. Bennaton in favor of the other course, it was adopted.

Our baggage was sent by the transportation wagon of the diligence line forthwith, and we were notified that seats would be provided for us on a train of cars going out this afternoon to Moije station, where the cars stop for the night.

Mr. Henderson, the gentlemanly superintendent, gave us a pass over the road free of charge, and we were informed that the same would be extended on returning. We found a number of officials connected with the road on the train with us; also my friend, Mr. D. H. Sampson, and the Rev. A. G. Simonton, brother-in-law of Rev. A. L. Blackford.

After a ride of twelve miles we stopped at a public house kept by a German, who gave us an excellent dinner, with all the varieties of drinks usual in the city hotels.

Beds were spread upon the floor for the accommodation of our party, and we found every thing very comfortable.

We found here upon arrival Senor Martino, with a friend connected with the law school in São Paulo. They had come down with their guns and dogs, expecting to have a hunt in this vicinity; but it has been raining so constantly as to prevent the sport. Both of these gentlemen have been students of law for more than the usual term, but their fondness for the woods with their dogs and guns has taken more of their attention than their books. Senor Martino has now, however, graduated, and has consequently the title of Dom, as every one here has who is permitted to practise law. He has promised to send me a supply of indigo seed from Minas, where he resides and this plant is grown extensively.

WEDNESDAY, _December 13, 1865_.

After breakfasting some of our party repaired to the clear, cold stream, where a dam had been thrown up, and enjoyed a plunge bath, which was quite bracing and salutary.

We were conveyed from the station to the foot of the serra in a light open car, by a horse. We went in a rapid trot over the smooth parts of the road, but suddenly we were notified that the engine was meeting us, when our trella was stopped, and the horse disengaged so as to run it back and avoid a collision. The engine, however, stopped before reaching us, and we proceeded to the workshop on foot.

The entire party were next carried up the steep grade on the serra, of one foot ascent in every ten feet, for one mile and a quarter, by the action of a stationary engine of one hundred and sixty horse-power. We then walked a similar distance, a land-slide having interrupted the running of the inclined plane. Again we were drawn up the third section, and walked up the fourth, where the track was torn away by the sliding of the earth.

Much has been done here to overcome the natural difficulties presented by this serra, but much more has yet to be done before any reliance can be placed upon this line for transportation of freight, or as a highway of travel for passengers. Not only must the earth or stone upon which the track rests be secured against yielding, but the sides of the cuts in the serra must not be liable to slide, and thus endanger the passage of trains, or obstruct the road at various points.

There is a double track for one-half of the distance upon each of the four inclined planes, and a balance car runs down at one end of the huge wire cable, while the train is drawn up at the other extremity.

By sundry turns of this cable around the rims of large metal wheels connected with the stationary engines, the friction and resistance is such as to obviate slipping of the wire cable. This entire force is brought to bear upon the freighted train in its ascent, while the descending balance car keeps the cable tight, and exerts some influence upon the ascending train of cars.

At each of the four stations one of these immense engines, having five capacious and strong boilers, exerts its power in bringing up the trains. But all this seems now very much like the lever of Archimedes, with which he proposed to move the world if he could but secure a fulcrum. The basis of efficient operation for the road being the embankment upon which the track rests, it is indispensable that some plan shall be adopted to render it secure, or the tremendous power of the machinery can be of no avail.

At the close of our last walk we reached the level where the locomotive is sufficient to move the train, and after a lunch of cheese, bread and beer at a vende, (retail shop,) we took our seats in an open car and whirled along at a rapid rate over the road to São Paulo.

The use of iron stools of a concavo-convex shape as supports for the rail, instead of wooden cross-ties, is adopted here, but an accident from the breaking of one leads to the inference that they are unsafe.

There was one point upon the track at which two cars, loaded with dirt, discharged their cargo with remarkable despatch, by dropping the sides, that were attached by hinges, and then the negroes used their shovels to conclude the work.

We had on the train with us Mr. J. J. Auburtin, the general superintendent of the road; Mr. Henderson, superintendent of the working operations; Mr. Fox, president engineer; Mr. Hutchins, secretary to chief engineer; and Mr. Jesters, traffic agent. All the business offices are in the city of São Paulo, and the chief work-shops are located there also. The chief engineer of the company resides in England, and has his representative here looking after the business.

Upon reaching the Hotel da Europa, we met Mr. Bennaton, who informed us that arrangements were progressing for our trip; but it is most likely we may be detained several days, and we must practise that Brazilian virtue, patience.

Calling upon Mr. Blackford and lady during the evening, I found their house filled with ministers of the gospel, who are here with a view to organize a Presbytery, to exercise discipline among those who have become members of the Presbyterian church in this section, and to ordain a converted Catholic priest, who has been assisting in missionary work.

While the people here profess to be tolerant of other religions, some of the former enactments in regard to seats in the councils of state, and in regard to marriage, are calculated to discourage emigration, but it is expected that these things may be changed ere long.

THURSDAY, _December 14, 1865_.

The indications of delay here are evident, from all that can be learned to-day, and we feel that suspense which is natural to those earnestly desiring to accomplish an object.

I accompanied Dr. Shaw and Major Meriwether to purchase an outfit of water-proof overcoats and leggins, which cost each of them twenty-two dollars and fifty cents, but they are now well provided against the rainy season.

This period of almost constant rain is now upon us, and lasts usually two or three months in this latitude. During the other nine months of the year, rain falls but seldom in any considerable quantity, and during June, July, and August, is regarded the dry season of the year. These being the coolest months, the relations of the wet and dry season to temperature differs from what is observed in the United States. The winter with us is usually the period of most rain; but there is not so marked a difference, as is remarked in Brazil, between the rainy and dry seasons of the year. I anticipate less inconvenience in travelling from the rain than would be experienced from the continuous hot sun during the day; and learning that the mornings are for the most part free from rain, we can do most of our riding early in the day.

A most important item to the traveller is to have along with him, at all times, a change of under-clothing, and for this object, a water-proof valise or satchel is very convenient. In this, his comb, tooth-brush, and a pair of slippers can also be kept at hand, though he may be temporarily separated from his baggage.

FRIDAY, _December 15, 1865_.

Mr. Bennaton now thinks that matters will be arranged so that we can leave day after to-morrow, but while we do not wish to retard any of the preparations, it is not expected that we will leave until Monday. None of us approve of travelling on the Sabbath, when it can be avoided.

Mr. Blackford called to see us this evening, and remonstrated warmly against Sunday travelling, but more especially against setting out on a business tour upon the Sabbath, when we could so easily wait for another day. He insisted that no good would come of business done on the Sabbath, and said if we did not expect to observe the sanctity of the Sabbath in this country, we had better return at once to our families, as he felt assured they would not prosper here, without keeping the Sabbath day holy to the Lord, and observing it as a day of rest from labor.

Meeting Dom Prates upon the street this afternoon, he informed me that he has a body of land on the Ribeira de Ignape, of which every alternate lot will be given to families who will locate on them.

SATURDAY, _December 16, 1865_.

Having arranged to meet Dom Bernardo Gavião this morning, we proceeded to his office, with Mr. Bennaton as interpreter. Upon inquiring the terms upon which he would dispose of the whole, or a part of the extensive territory of Cambuy, he stated that he would take one hundred and twenty-five thousand ($125,000) dollars for the entire property. Estimating it at twelve square leagues, the cost will be something over one ($1) dollar per acre, and believing that there is not over four square leagues which is well adapted to cultivation, it puts the price over three dollars an acre for the productive land. He couples the proposition with an offer to hire two hundred and forty negroes for a series of years, at the annual rate of twelve thousand five hundred ($12,500) dollars; the first payment to be made at the end of the second year, and without interest, but subsequent payments at the close of each year. He informs us that there are one hundred and twenty men, ninety women, and thirty children. It will be noted that the proportion of men is large to that of the women, and the proportion of children very small, which is to be observed in most gangs of negroes in Brazil; the former owing to larger importations of males from Africa, and the latter from want of proper care of women and their offspring. These negroes are to be fed, clothed, and receive medical treatment, at the expense of the party employing them; while the owner loses the time of disability for labor, by running away, or, in the event of death, a pro rata reduction being made.

SUNDAY, _December 17, 1865_.

Desiring some definite information in regard to the missionary operations of the Presbyterian church in Brazil, the following was handed to me, for such use as I might think proper.

SÃO PAULO, _16 December, 1865_.

DR. GASTON:

DEAR FRIEND:—In satisfying your request for information in regard to our missionary work in Brazil, I am compelled to-day to be very brief.

In August of 1859, the Rev. A. G. Simonton arrived in Rio de Janeiro. In July of 1860, myself and wife arrived. In May, 1861, Mr. Simonton began preaching in Portuguese to three or four persons. The number of hearers slowly increased the first year to twenty-five or thirty.

In December of 1861, the Rev. F. J. C. Schneider arrived in Rio de Janeiro, destined to labor among the German colonists of this province. He resides in Rio Claro, (São João de,) and has devoted himself to this special work, amid many discouragements, and seeing but little fruit as yet of his labors.

In January of 1862, a church was organized in Rio de Janeiro, when one American and one Portuguese were received on profession, as the first fruits of our mission. Our church there now numbers forty-nine members, nearly all natives and Portuguese, and converts from Romanism. Hundreds have heard the word of God preached. The present average attendance is nearly one hundred, and would doubtless be much larger, but from the difficulty of getting a suitable hall for preaching. During most of the years of 1861, ’62, ’63 and ’64, preaching was held in English in Rio de Janeiro.

In October of 1863, I came to São Paulo, to begin a new station in this city. In March of the present year, 1865, we organized a church here, receiving as our first fruits six persons on profession, all natives, and Portuguese, and converts from Romanism. The attendance here ranges from fifteen to thirty.

In October of 1864, we received on profession to the church in Rio de Janeiro, O. Senor José Manoel de Conceicão, formerly a priest of the Roman Catholic church, and vicar of Brotas in this province. He is a man of fine talents, education, extensive information, and very eloquent. We expect (D. V.) to ordain him on to-morrow, to the full work of the gospel ministry. In his former parish of Brotas a church was organized on the 13th November of the present year, with eleven members, converts from Romanism. No missionary resides there, and the work has been done so far by visits from time to time of the persons above-named.

Since 1855, a Scotch physician has been preaching in Rio de Janeiro. The result is a church, with a membership of more than one hundred, and an attendance of from two to three hundred.

About a dozen colporteurs are at work in Rio de Janeiro, and in various parts of the empire, circulating the Bible and other books.

Some seven or eight German ministers are laboring among their countrymen in various parts.

Yours, very truly,
A. L. BLACKFORD.

I am also informed that a Presbytery was organized yesterday, by these three Presbyterian ministers, to be in communication with the Synod of Baltimore. Senor Conceicão having preached his trial sermon this morning, is to be ordained this afternoon. It was delivered at the house of Mr. Blackford, in the presence of a mixed auditory, of which Dr. Shaw, Major Meriwether and myself formed a part. As he spoke Portuguese, I could only gather a few ideas, and the others had to draw upon their imagination entirely; but, like the deaf man in regard to William C. Preston, we could say he made the motions well.

Afternoon. Since writing the above, I witnessed the ordination of Senor José Manoel de Conceicão (formerly a priest of the Roman Catholic church) as a minister of the gospel in the Presbyterian faith, of the Protestant church. He was interrogated by the Rev. A. L. Blackford, who was joined by the Rev. A. G. Simonton, and the Rev. F. J. C. Schneider, in the laying on of hands, while Senor Conceicão kneeled in their midst. Mr Simonton then delivered an address, at the close of which Senor Conceicão spoke with deep feeling and the most humble appreciation of his new relations.

This event indicates an important epoch in the progress of Protestantism in this papal land, and the character of the individual, with his influence among the people, will doubtless have considerable effect upon the public mind. He has manifested much independence in separating himself from the associations of Romanism; and his appearance bespeaks the character of a high-toned, intelligent gentleman.

MONDAY, _December 18, 1865_.

Our trunks were packed and all our baggage arranged for taking our departure early this morning; but it was found that there were still wanting two pack-mules and a pack-saddle to equip us for the tour.

Upon the proffer of Dr. Shaw to pay for the pack-saddle, one was purchased by Mr. Bennaton, at the round figure of thirty ($30.00) dollars. Our friend Mr. Sampson procured two additional mules, and the outfit was pronounced complete.

The President of the province having given Mr. Bennaton the requisite document and funds for proceeding with us, our party left the capital at half-past two o’clock P. M., after a detention of five days for preparation.

Mr. J. J. Auburtin, general superintendent of the Santos and São Paulo railway, accompanies us on the tour as far as Sorocaba, having his own servant, and also his own riding mules. But it seems that he is supplied with a pack-mule and pack-saddle by Mr. Bennaton, and hence the necessity for another to be purchased.

There are two camaradas and a servant with us, and the number of animals is fifteen, there being three pack-mules, with five loose animals, besides those under the saddle, exclusive of the two mules of Mr. Auburtin. Two or three of the animals furnished by the government are not in good condition, but those furnished by private parties are well fitted for service, and we have much reason to be thankful for the generosity of these gentlemen in supplying them for our use.

I have the good fortune to be mounted again upon Jack, the mule which was furnished by Mr. Gephardt for my former tour. He has now been purchased for the public service by Mr. Bennaton, in view of a commission which has been intrusted to him by the Minister of Agriculture, for a survey of routes from Campinas to Itu, and to Araraquara, with reference to the location of a railroad. After closing the present expedition, he expects to enter upon that service. This is a very important movement for the future prospects of any of our people who may locate near these places, but we cannot rely upon any thing definite being accomplished speedily for the improvement of transportation in that direction.

Upon leaving I called at the residence of Mr. Blackford, and got a Portuguese and English Testament for Dr. Shaw, and, on offering to pay for it, he told me that payment would be received in farina when business was commenced in this country, or, in other words, it was a present.

We halted for the night at the Ponte Cretia, where the establishment and the feminine tenant gave but little promise of comfort. Corn, however, for our animals, and supper of chicken and rice for ourselves, with tolerable beds, reconciled us to the necessity of the situation. In driving the animals to a pasture in the dark, a horse fell over a precipice and was left for the night.

TUESDAY, _December 19, 1865_.

After getting a cup of coffee and having corn given to the stock, we got off from Ponte Cretia at 7 o’clock this morning. The horse being extricated from the ravine proved to be but slightly injured, and all moved on towards Itu. A number of trains of pack-mules were passed, laden with cotton, some of the bales being marked three and a half arrobas, (one hundred and twelve pounds,) while others were marked three arrobas, (ninety-six pounds,) and larger in bulk than those observed from other parts of this province. These bales correspond very much to the bales of Osnaburg, seen in South Carolina and Georgia, being, however, a little longer and not so broad. They are enclosed in bagging, with the sipo vine used instead of ropes.

We met on the road Colonel Fortunato José de Camargo, who resides near Faxina, and is engaged largely in raising horses, mules and cattle.

Mr. Auburtin informs me that he owns eighty (80) square leagues of territory, being the largest landowner in the province.

Our weather-protectors were brought into requisition to-day to keep off the shower of rain.

We stopped early in the day at the fazenda of Senor Joaquim José de Silva, some two miles from the main road, where every thing needful was provided for us.

We saw here a patch of tea-plants which had evidently grown well, but was now neglected. The seed are round, of the size of a small acorn, and three in each pod.

Cotton which had produced a crop last year was again growing well, after being cut off near the ground.

Corn is also looking vigorous, and promises a good yield. All this land is very steep and hilly.

WEDNESDAY, _December 20, 1865_.

After our horses and mules came from the pasture this morning, it was observed that some of them had blood upon their necks, caused from the bites of the bat, known as the vampire, that not unfrequently attacks animals at night, and fixes itself upon a vein of the neck.

Being supplied with an early breakfast, we took leave of Senor Silva and his two good-looking daughters, who were seen then for the first and only time during our visit. His son went with us to the Freguezia Avasariquama, or Piedede, avoiding the steep hills by which we had approached on the day previous.

One league beyond this place we reached the margin of the Tieté, and proceeded along it by a very fair road fifteen or sixteen miles, when we turned to the left, and reached the city of Itu at 6 o’clock in the evening.

This region of country is very irregular and even mountainous, yet we found cane growing well, and also a good prospect for corn and rice. The river is not suited for navigation, and the settlements on both sides depend upon the road we travelled for sending their products to market by carts or pack-mules.

We made a halt of three and a half hours during the heat of the day at the inn of Verzinha, getting dinner and refreshing our animals.

Upon reaching the town of Itu the urgent thirst of some of the party was satisfied with beer, after which we repaired to the elegant and extensive establishment of the Baron of Perecicaba. I was sorry that his son, Antonio Paez de Barros, had left home, as my acquaintance with him would have enhanced the pleasure of the visit.

The old gentleman, however, received us with the greatest cordiality, and tendered us any thing he could do or furnish for our comfort. Leaving Mr. Auburtin to talk with the baron, the rest of us strolled out to the extensive fruitery, which is nearly a mile in length, and filled with a great variety of trees and vines.

The best quality of pine apple, called Abacashi, is growing here abundantly. Oranges, bananas, jaboticabas, pomegranates, figs, peaches and apples all grow here advantageously. There was a specimen of dwarf apple, spread over the ground like a small shrub, in the spaces between the other trees, and having a small, pleasant-tasted fruit. Upon inquiry I learned that this is a peculiar variety, and not the result of any special mode of culture.

Grapes of various kinds were growing vigorously in different parts of the grounds upon frames put up for the support of the vines. We enjoyed a delicious treat of these fine grapes.

The tea-plant was growing over a large area, and looks flourishing, affording a good article for table use. This shrub presents much the aspect of the boxwood tree, and from two to four of the tender leaves from each branch are picked off at each gathering of the crop.

Coffee likewise has a place in this collection of trees, but the soil has not that fertility which is requisite for a good yield, and manure is employed to give vigor to its growth.

The climate and soil of this region is regarded as particularly adapted to the yield of fruits.

Supper was announced at 9½ o’clock, and was of the most substantial order, with beer and wine.

Mr. Auburtin brought out his own black tea by permission.

THURSDAY, _December 21, 1865_.

After breakfast the Baron joined us in a ride to the Salto of the Rio Tieté, four miles distant.

This is an irregular water-fall, making quite a cascade at one point of perhaps twenty feet. The entire fall of water is about fifty feet, and the site is well suited for machinery of any magnitude that may be desired. A large cotton factory might be located here with a prospect of being supplied with raw material from the country below; and much of it could ascend the river in canoes or boats to the foot of this fall. There has been a small mill here upon a site that would warrant extensive works, with command of any amount of water-power, and the investment would doubtless pay handsomely.

A public highway is projected from this place to Jundiahi, the present terminus of the railway from Santos; and this distance of thirty miles with wagons and mules would not increase greatly the expenses on the products of a factory.

Upon pricing a lot of horses and mules which passed over the bridge while we were at the Salto, it was found they could be bought from twenty-five dollars a head to forty dollars a head, but none of them were above medium quality and many quite inferior.

In passing through the city of Itu we were shown an establishment in which an eighteen-saw cotton-gin was moved by a portable steam-engine; and there was in the building a thirty-saw gin idle which might have been brought into operation by the same power. There was also a small press in use, and I counted ten hands of various sizes employed around these little contrivances.

Mr. Auburtin was much interested in this cotton-cleaning and packing, as he is desirous of getting information as to the extent and nature of the attention bestowed upon the culture and treatment of the cotton in this and the neighboring sections.