Chapter XI: Part 11

It is important for the railroad interest that cotton shall be successfully cultivated in this region of country; and this gentleman, with others connected with the company, have done much in placing seed in the hands of planters and in encouraging the growth of this staple. His visit now, so far as I learn, has for its object the ascertaining of the wants of the planters with a view to facilitating their growth of cotton; and, as Major Meriwether has given him the benefit of his large experience in growing this staple in the Southern States, he may be able to enlighten the people of Brazil somewhat in his next article.

A number of gentlemen, among whom were two brothers of the Minister of Agriculture, accompanied our party this afternoon to the quarry (lapidarea) of flagstone within a mile of the city. There is an inexhaustible bed of crude slate, of which the pavements of Itu present fine specimens; and it is so firm that horses pass along the side-walks without damage. The slabs in the quarry may be made of any proportions desired, from the tile of a house-top to massive steps and columns. It is so smooth and regular as to require no polishing. While at the quarry we saw a huge block raised from the mass beneath by simply inserting crow-bars between the adjacent lamina of the stone. Different strata present different thicknesses of these lamina, suited to different objects.

The city of Itu is made up to a large extent by the residence of parties who own planting interests in the country around, and many of them owning houses here spend most of their time upon their fazendas, so that the population is not usually proportionate to the number of the houses. The buildings upon the main plaza have a fine appearance, with iron railings in many instances to the second-story balconies, which are ornamented with tasteful figures, gilding, &c. I am informed that a good dwelling may be rented here, with garden, fruit trees, &c., for less than a hundred dollars a year; and the health of the location has a widespread reputation. The people seen about this place have a genteel look, and are generally neatly dressed, which bespeaks a favorable feature of the society and the character of the inhabitants.

Our old friend the Baron presented each of our party with ear-picks and tooth-picks made by himself from the native wood of the country, and showed us a very old plain knife which was the only instrument used in making them. This may be considered the baron’s amusement, and by giving them to his friends he establishes a very close link of association, as these two articles are more directly personal than almost any thing else we use.

By the way, the habit of placing tooth-picks upon the table to be used after eating is a common usage of the best people throughout all this country; and the fancy stands for holding the wooden tooth-picks are generally of china, but very frequently of silver, and representing a peacock or other fowl.

FRIDAY, _December 22, 1865_.

Our energetic old friend, the Baron, being apprised of our wish to make an early move, gave us breakfast at 6 o’clock. For this we should doubtless feel under special obligations to his two daughters, who are inmates of the house at present. One is the wife of Senor Barros, at São Paulo, from whom I brought a letter to the Baron, and with whom I had travelled in the diligence in my first trip from Santos. The other daughter is a widow whose husband died a few years since.

These ladies present an intelligent expression, and not only graced the table with their presence on previous occasions, but even at this extra early hour.

Taking our leave of this pleasant family we set out for Porto Feliz, sixteen miles distant.

The lands on this route are quite thin, but the cotton is found to give a fair yield; and many farmers, who could barely support their families formerly, have, by the cultivation of cotton, realized a good return. Our friend Mr. Auburtin has the credit of saving them from starvation by introducing the cotton seed into the country; and, as an old minister of the gospel told an abolitionist in by-gone years, that the negroes of the South were fed on cotton seed, so I tell him it is with these people. The amount and quality of the grass in this region does not warrant grazing farms, and yet the cattle seen on the roadside were generally in good order.

We reached the town of Porto Feliz at 11 o’clock A. M., and were hospitably received by Senor Angilo Custodo de Morais, who is a substantial and plain gentleman of much kindness of heart.

The houses here are extended upon one street for half a mile, and mostly one-story buildings, without much taste in their structure. The church is a large building of less antiquated style than most of those seen elsewhere, and, with a spacious open plaza in front of it, presents the most comely feature of the place.

We were informed that the best and most commodious houses in the town could be rented for three dollars or four dollars per month, and living in other respects is doubtless equally cheap. I observed in one store a very full assortment of all the variety of goods and utensils that are ordinarily found in one of our promiscuous country-stores, and on pricing various articles concluded that every thing was quite as cheap as in the United States.

Having need for some medicine to give Mr. Bennaton, I went to a druggist’s shop and was surprised to see the variety and cheapness of the various standard articles of the materia medica that are in common use.

The population is about fifteen hundred, and the health is said to be very good.

The town is located immediately upon the Rio Tieté, being, however, on an elevated bluff far above the level of the water. We visited the old port, which formerly was the point of embarkation for many persons descending the river, and the river is passable for large canoes from this point up to the Salto of Itu. Dr. Shaw and myself concluded to take a bath, and upon swimming across the stream it was found very swift and I was very much exhausted. As the Doctor did not undertake to cross, I called to him to meet me on my return, and, being a tall man, he waded into the stream as far as he could stand. The effort in swimming back had so completely exhausted me that he had to assist me in getting ashore. My muscles became cramped, and the current being very swift I could not resist it even when on my feet.

We observed here, what is very common at all the water-courses near the towns, a number of negro women in various stages of nudity, washing clothes. They don’t use tubs, nor do they often use pots to boil clothes; but, going into the stream with the articles, they are lashed into the water and scrubbed until they become clean. There is usually a preliminary soaking of twenty-four hours. Soap is used sparingly, and I have seen in many places the leaves of a bush used, which forms a lather, and serves the purpose of soap very, satisfactorily. A process of bleaching by exposure to the dew and sun alternately, for several days, is resorted to for the nicer linen garments, which gives them a very pretty, clear, white appearance; but the delay frequently proves a great annoyance to those who are needing their clothes.

The dorado is a fine, large fish, that is said to be abundant in this river, but we failed to have any opportunity of testing its qualities, nor did we see any other fish at this place.

We were called on by the Catholic priest, the vicar of this municipality, who is a mulatto of more than ordinary intelligence; but my prejudice to being associated with those having the negro blood could not be so entirely put aside as to make me feel at ease with this colored gentleman. His bearing was dignified and courteous, while he professes to be much pleased at the prospect of having our people to come into this province with their industrial arts. He is a native of Bahia, and I learn that there are many people in that section having a large admixture of the African blood.

The prevalent idea that the dark complexion of many of the people in this warm latitude is attributable to climate only needs observation to illustrate that the presence of negro blood is the source of the dark hue in most instances.

Natives of the country are seen whose skin is fair and white as elsewhere; and, though it is evident that the Portuguese race is not clear-skinned like the German, yet the absence of blue eyes, light hair and florid complexion is a very different thing from the tawny skin and curly hair so frequently observed here. Any unusual darkness of hue results from mixture of negro or Indian blood, rather than from the hot sun or the tropical climate.

In the case of the Spanish race, it is known that the pure Castilian is fair-skinned, with even a blond complexion, while the ordinary dark hue of the Spaniard is attributable to the mixture of Indian blood generally, and in some instances to the amalgamation with the negro element.

Mr. Auburtin told our host that we did not wish to wait for breakfast, but that a cup of coffee, with some bread and butter, and a few fresh eggs, would be acceptable.

SATURDAY, _December 23, 1865_.

Having disposed of the fresh eggs, &c., we set out for Epanema, and had considerable difficulty in ferreting out the paths in the absence of a guide who had engaged to conduct us to this place.

Some of the lands on this route of twenty miles were very good and yet were not under cultivation; while more inferior lands were planted in corn and cotton, with moderately good results.

In one instance, where the more fertile soil had been cleared and planted, the weeds and bushes had outgrown the corn, so as to lead to the abandonment of the crop; and it really looks as if the richness of the soil, which gives trouble to keep the land clear, becomes a reason for not cultivating it. There is a strange want of energy among the common people of this country; and whatever requires much labor, even to attain the best results, does not suit their habits.

In all this region, where coffee cannot be grown successfully, the planters are engaging in the culture of cotton, and with some there is quite a mania on the subject, so that breadstuffs are likely to be neglected as formerly with us.

We reached the iron-works at Epanema about 11 o’clock A. M., and the present superintendent, Senor Dom Joaquim de Sonsa Mursa, extended a cordial welcome to our party. His wife is a German lady, of fine appearance and much intelligence, who speaks English; and by her kind attention to our comfort made us feel quite at home. The large house was clean and neat in all its parts, and her table was very creditable to her skill as a housekeeper.

In looking around the old structures of this vast establishment for working iron, it is a matter of surprise that all should have been suffered to go to wreck. The gentleman who has now undertaken the restoration of the iron-works has a task imposed upon him which requires an energy and tact independent of scientific attainments; and there are practical difficulties which are not likely to be overcome while the place continues under the auspices of the Brazilian government.

There is a mountain of iron ore of superior quality which must furnish material to any desired extent for all future time. An inexhaustible supply of limestone is likewise near at hand to furnish the requisite flux, besides affording lime of an excellent quality. Sandstone is likewise found in abundance near the works, and is now being used to face the furnaces that are being refitted. In addition to these articles a quarry of slate or flagstone is located in close proximity.

There is also a large amount of good timber growing upon the mountain-slopes belonging to this property, which may be used for making charcoal to be employed in the furnaces.

The lands are of prime quality, being the best description of terra rocha upon the slopes adjacent to the vast reservoir of iron ore.

Under proper cultivation the soil here is suited to produce every thing to the best advantage; and would yield all the provisions that could be required by any number of operatives that would be necessary for the successful working of the place.

A number of negroes, most of whom are now very old, some cattle, and horses, and mules, belonging to the government, are here under the charge of Major Dias Albuquerque, who resides at the works, and has been the agent of the government for several years, simply keeping the property together without accomplishing any thing towards arresting the decay of buildings and machinery.

It is a magnificent ruin; and one feels like he had been transplanted to some vast relic of the ancients, to witness such immense resources lying in a state of entire disorder and neglect.

This place was put in operation more than fifty years ago, and at one time did a large business; but was subsequently discontinued, and some of the machinery was removed to be sent to another iron mine in the province of Matto-Grosso. This never reached its destination, and lies useless at some, point from which it is now impracticable to have it returned.

The site labors under a great difficulty in its isolated position and want of transportation. But the resources for producing the iron rail for a road would warrant the erection of a rolling-mill, to prepare the means of building a line of communication to some eligible point, and it would be well for some enterprising capitalists to seriously examine the advantages of a contract for these works, with a view to a permanent occupation.

In visiting the various points we were supplied with riding animals; and Mr. Bennaton will be furnished here with two mules of the government to expedite our farther exploration of the country.

SUNDAY, _December 24, 1865_.

All of us had comfortable quarters for the night, and Dr. Shaw and Major Meriwether slept in a large bed, over which a crown was suspended, in which the Emperor slept upon the occasion of his visit to this establishment some years ago.

Being supplied with breakfast, consisting in part of fresh milk and butter of superior make, our party left Epanema at 7 o’clock this morning and rode twelve miles to Sorocaba.

The greater part of the route lies through campo lands of the dark red order, having a hard and dry-looking grass that is not eaten much by stock, and here and there a few clumps of trees known as camponia, such as are left in a rocky place of a field.

Upon reaching the town we were received at the house of Senor Coronel Manoel Lopez Oliveiro, to whom Mr. Auburtin had a letter from the President of the province. He was so much occupied with his cordial reception that he did not introduce the rest of us until requested to do so by Mr. Bennaton. So goes the world!

Mr. Auburtin being the honored guest, was assigned a suite of rooms alone; and the other four of us were quartered together in an apartment of the same size, but all were very comfortably provided for in every respect.

This gentleman is a man of large means, and has two cotton-gins with steam-power in the city, where he prepares for the market not only the yield of his own fazenda but a large amount purchased in the seed. He seems under some special obligation to Mr. Auburtin for introducing his cotton to favorable notice in England.

MONDAY, _December 25, 1865_.

The explosion of a few rockets, and the ringing of the church bells at midnight, in commemoration of the birth of our Saviour, is the only indication we have had here of Christmas. The only thing to attract attention is the suspension of the ordinary avocation of life, and every one seems to wear rather a serious aspect, than to indulge in any hilarity or festivities on the occasion.

We walked out before breakfast to deliver some letters of introduction to parties in the town, but none of them were found, excepting Dom Oliveiro, who treated us very courteously, and tendered us any assistance in his power. We called also upon Senor Carlos Tolemei, who manifested great readiness to aid us, inviting all to his house to-night. Coffee had been served before going out, and we did not get breakfast until ten o’clock, which was accompanied by tea and cakes, as has been done at some other places, instead of coffee and milk.

We all rode out with Colonel Lopez to-day, to visit his plantation, and found cotton, corn and beans, all growing together upon the same ground. There is no regard for rows in planting any of these articles, and the stand of cotton is in some parts a little deficient, but in the main average; the growth is good, and the number of bolls upon the advanced portion is large. Some of the cotton has been planted this season, but another portion has been cut off from the growth of last season, and is springing up again very luxuriantly. The crop gives evidence of good culture with the hoe, and is quite free from grass or weeds, but the cotton must suffer by mixture with corn and beans. The soil, is dark and loose, with an admixture of large gravel, making it very liable to wash, and hence the absence of the plough in its culture is rather advantageous than otherwise, and more especially as there are many steep hills under cultivation. This land corresponds more to some of the cotton lands of the up-country in Georgia than any territory I have seen in Brazil.

Senor Carlos rode out with us, and invited the party to visit his cotton-gin, moved by water-power, a few miles from town, but time did not permit. Besides these, there is also a cotton-gin in the town moved by steam, which is owned by Senor Machado.

We were visited this afternoon by Dom Oliveiro, Dom Americo, Delegado of Police, and Municipal Judge, and Senor José Leite Pintead, who proposed that we should remain for an entertainment by the citizens, but our motto being “duty before pleasure,” it could not be accepted.

Dr. Vas, of Campinas, called also to see us, being here on a trip of recreation. He informs me that Settequéda has gone to Jahu, to purchase a fazenda in that section, which is the first point of our exploration of those lands.

The visit to the house of Senor Carlos was enjoyed by all very much. His wife performs skilfully on the piano, and he sings admirably well. Beer and champagne were served with other refreshments.

Sorocaba contains about five thousand inhabitants, and was formerly a great mart for mules, there being eighty thousand sold here in a single season. It is very healthy, and there is but one physician in the entire district to meet all the needs of the people.

The city is located upon the Rio Sorocaba, from which it doubtless derives its name.

There is a factory here of fancy whips, that is somewhat famous throughout the province, and many of the ladies receive presents of Sorocaba riding-whips from those who wish to pay them a compliment. The structure of the whip is most elaborate, being plated with material of different colors, and a part of the larger end interwoven with fine pieces of the quills of the porcupine. The butt of the whip is covered with silver, and has a silver chain with some ornament attached to it, while there are two or three bands of silver on the stock.

At the same place will be found also fancy bridles, trimmed with silver; belts of most fantastic style; girth of rare patterns; cruppers of every variety, and saddle cloths, which are intended to be very ornamental on the animal.

To appreciate the importance of this class of articles, it is requisite to understand that many people here lay great stress upon their outfit for riding, and the style differs materially from that which we have been accustomed to see. The bridles are made in this establishment by platting a number of thongs of raw-hide into a flat or round form, which constitute the headstall and reins of the bridle, with sundry silver rings at different points of each.

Where the reins unite at the hand there are two rings, secured together by a small strap, and from each of these extends loose ends of some two feet in length, which may be used for whipping or for securing the animal. Martingales are very seldom used in this country.

TUESDAY, _December 26, 1865_.

Having exhausted the resources of the place by our observations, we left Sorocaba at eight o’clock this morning, after being supplied with a cup of coffee and some biscuits by our host.

Our passage through dreary campo lands for three leagues (twelve miles) brought us to Campo Largo, which is a very comely little village of the mud-built type. Proceeding from this some miles, we began to observe the slopes on our right under cultivation, with a number of neat settlements along the lower part of the hills, which continued for a considerable distance on our course.

The rain fell heavily at one time, but we had the good fortune to have a house for protection, having stopped to examine some mules.

We stopped for the night at Capello de Alto, and soon found that a pile of pea vines had to be our bed, while there were no knives and forks to eat with. A can of my tomatoes assisted in making out the grub, and with collards, beans, farina and stewed chicken, we made a very substantial repast, this being the only meal of the day.

My blanket and pillow, which had been of little use heretofore, came now into requisition, and the others used their overcoats for bedding.

The proprietor of this establishment was evidently well satisfied with the outfit of his house, and we all thought him the most independent-looking personage we had met. He was attired in white cotton pants or drawers, with a short shirt of the same material outside. Having a large goatee, and long, uncombed hair, he cut a figure.

WEDNESDAY, _December 27, 1865_.

With the conviction that we could not fare worse elsewhere, we made an early move from Capella de Alto, hoping to find a place for breakfast within ten or twelve miles. But there was no suitable place to stop until we reached Lamberi, sixteen miles distant, and having rode very slowly, we got nothing to eat until two o’clock P. M.

Our road to-day lay through a hilly country, and though the soil was for the most part thin, there was some very fair farming land. In several places there were campos of waste land, growing only a rough grass and the scrubby palm.

Quite a number of the native men of the country were seen about the ranchos on the roadside, and the recruiting officers might find a good harvest in this region. Many of the older men, and most of the women, were affected with the goitre, that swelling of the glands of the neck which is prevalent in the proximity of most of the serras. We observed also, as we approached this place, quite a number of persons laboring under the leprosy (Morfea) posted on the roadside, to ask alms of those passing.

This miserable condition is a disease of the skin and other tissues, which is supposed to result from the climate in connection with improper diet; and is complicated in some instances with syphilis, or other degenerated states of the system. The treatment of it has not heretofore been attended with satisfactory results, but I learn that a vine has been discovered which cures this terrible malady, and the efficacy of this treatment will ere long be fully tested.

The subjects of this disorder are excluded from all association with other persons, and are often found in tents or rude huts, in some isolated spot, near the thoroughfares, so that they may gather a small pittance from travellers, to purchase the means of subsistence. They seem very grateful for even the smallest amount that may be given, and we have usually thrown them a few dumps, but there was none in hand to-day.

This being my forty-first birthday, I find myself at the middle period of life with a crisis in my affairs which must influence the future of myself and family very materially. To commence the world as it were anew with six young children involves great responsibility to my wife and myself; but I trust that all may be accomplished for our mutual welfare and comfort, by the issue of my present investigations in this county.

The past is to be separated from the future with more distinctness than any other periods of my existence have been, not only by the change of events but by the alterations of our social relations; and the rending of old ties and establishing of new associations makes the prospective change of location a very serious consideration.

The circumstances in which we will be placed may not admit of those advantages in rearing and educating our children which they would have enjoyed under a different order of things; and I realize that many duties as a man and parent devolve upon me now that differ much from those of former years.

But being imbued with a deep-rooted sentiment of self-reliance, it is still my privilege to exercise those energies of body and those faculties of mind which God has given me, for promoting the welfare of those dependent upon me.

THURSDAY, _December 28, 1865_.

Having taken a cup of coffee at the inn of mine host, Captain Marianno, we set out at 5 o’clock this morning, and after a ride of twelve miles over hills and plains, we reached the town of Itapetininga.[26] The first four miles lay through an irregular matto, with numerous very steep hills; but the remaining eight miles were through campos of gently undulating lands. Upon these there were several groups of horses and a few herds of cattle, but neither presented an appearance that would recommend this region for stock-raising.

We stopped with Senor Lenente Coronel Manoel Affonso Pereira Chaves, and though plain in his garb and manner, we were made to realize that we were heartily welcomed, while he exhibited an intelligence and general acquaintance with this region which promises to be very useful to us.

Upon conferring with a French engineer named Prudent, who has been employed by the government in constructing a road from this place to Sette Barros, on the Ribeira de Ignape, Mr. Bennaton concluded this route would be impracticable, and determined to proceed to Paranapanema. All the roads across the serra leading to the river are said to be in very bad order, but it being the business of this engineer to put this road in good order, it would be well for the authorities to investigate the cause of failure, and perhaps it would be found that another man would be more faithful to his charge.

The people here partake generally of the mental and physical characteristics of the country, and there is very little taste displayed in their dwellings or other houses.

A new theatre, which is not yet completed, is by far the neatest structure in the town, while the church is ready to tumble down from age and decay.

The plan of the place is similar to most of those seen, having a central open space near the church, and the streets laid off elsewhere at right angles and not usually more than thirty feet wide.

Most of the houses have but a single story, yet there are some exceptions, and our host has quite a large two-story residence, which, however, is not yet completed. Senor Chaves has presented me with a history of the province of São Paulo, for which I feel very thankful; and it will be made one of my text-books in learning the Portuguese language.

There is a stream of water on one side of the town upon which there is a saw-mill, and a cotton-gin is soon to be in operation also at the same place.

Notwithstanding this facility for water-power, we witnessed the stupendous folly of a small cotton-gin with eighteen saws in operation by the force of a treadmill, worked by the leg-power of men; and a screw was also seen at the same place worked by manual force of these bipeds.

In this apparatus there is a huge upright wheel of fifteen feet diameter, in which a man is constantly walking, and yet not advancing; and two other men are standing upon a platform outside of the rim of the wheel so as to use their feet upon certain pegs of wood, and thus assist the rotary motion. Four different bands and wheels without number are used to communicate this motion to the gin, and all this when mules and oxen are running idle about the town. A Portuguese is the owner of this stupid contrivance.

FRIDAY, _December 29, 1865_.

Our host favored us with an early breakfast, and we set out at 8 o’clock A. M. on the road leading to Paranapanema. Passing the Rio Itapetininga we traversed campos varied with patches of matto for twenty miles, when we stopped at a wayside inn kept by Senor José Ribeiro. The configuration of the lands over which we passed was irregular, and in some places extensive gullies or ravines had resulted from the washing of the rains. Most of the soil of the campos in this region is of a reddish aspect, while the matto lands are of a dark gray color, and producing fair crops under cultivation. Corn was observed growing well, and cotton is said to yield favorably.

The Irish potato was seen in a flourishing state at one place on the road to-day, and we are informed that this vegetable grows successfully in most parts of the country.

Those who plant cotton in this section are under the necessity of taking it in the seed to the gins at Itapetininga, and we saw some being carried on pack-mules in this form, a large basket being on each side.

At our stopping place we were informed that the proposed route from Paranapanema to Xiririca was in wretched condition, and I suggested that it would still be practicable to reach the Ribeira de Ignape at Iporanga, by way of Faxina and Apiahy. This lead to a warm controversy between Mr. Bennaton and myself as to undertaking that trip under all the disadvantages presented, but it was finally concluded to continue our present course.

SATURDAY, _December 30, 1865_.

Starting at 7 o’clock this morning we passed over a beautiful campo country with a portion of fair matto land, and crossing the Rio Paranapanema we reached the town of that name at 3 o’clock P. M., making a distance of twenty-eight miles.

There were more horses and cattle seen to-day upon the green plains than upon any previous portion of our route, and this presents a fine prospect for raising stock of all kinds.

Small patches of good arable land, with a growth of trees, are scattered at long intervals throughout these extended undulating campos, and there are also trees growing along the small streams which meets all the demands for fuel or for making enclosure about the houses.

Within four miles of the town there is a large fazenda in the open land owned by Senor Francisco Antonio D’Aquiar e Castro, (son of the Marquiza de Santos,) who resides at São Paulo.

Here we saw that manure renders these lands productive, and the best specimen of cabbage seen in Brazil was growing in the garden, while other articles also looked vigorous.

There was a large number of hogs in most excellent condition enclosed in a pen, and the number of corn-cobs showed that this staple was produced plentifully in this section.

We met on the road beyond the fazenda a lot of fine hogs going to market, and asking the price it was stated to be seven dollars per head, and as they would average two hundred pounds, meat does not exceed three and a half cents per pound.

The buildings of the fazenda are commodious and substantial, with a dwelling that presents quite a neat appearance. A supply of clear water is brought from a distance by a race or ditch; and I especially observed the slight impression made upon this firm red clay soil by the passage of the rapid current of water through the yard into the lot for the hogs and cattle.

An extensive and very strong enclosure for the stock of cattle was constructed by having large upright posts placed in the ground, with a groove on each side, to receive the ends of poles, one above another, thus forming a most substantial close fence. Around this enclosure a row of trees has been planted, and protected by a railing of poles some three and a half feet from the ground; which will in a few years afford a good shade for such cattle as may be kept up. This planting of trees for shading is not often seen in any part of this country, and it is a matter of special attention in this place.

On riding into the town we met Senor Frei Ponsiano de Montaldo Capushinho, to whom we bore a letter, which being read, we were assured of his readiness to accommodate us.

He is the Catholic priest of the place, and has the best establishment we saw. I observed the facings of the windows were of native pine, which grows very large and extensively at no great distance. The church is a combination of the old building with a new structure, but all in a rude, unfinished condition.

SUNDAY, _December 31, 1865_.

Our inquiries at Paranapanema satisfy all the party that it will not be practicable to reach Xiririca with our animals; and in view of the distance to Iporanga, the prearranged plan of visiting the country upon the Ribeira de Ignape has been abandoned by my friends, Dr. Shaw and Major Meriwether. But as I am not prone to give up any thing desirable because of the difficulties to be encountered, I expect to proceed to Iporanga with animals and a camarada hired by Mr. Bennaton, and thence I will descend the river to Xiririca, where I hope to find Mr. Street.

In the mean time Mr. Bennaton will go with the other gentlemen to Botocatu and the region of Perecicaba, including a visit to the country around Araraquara. They will give me a report in writing of the impressions connected with the localities visited,[27] and I expect to furnish them an account of my observations, so that each party may be informed as to the entire territory examined.

My proposed route, lying between the serra and the river, will give me a very good idea of the lands on this side of the river; and my investigations may be extended afterwards to the other side. The climate below Xiririca is said to be very unfavorable from the rains and fogs which prevail; but above that line the atmosphere is reported to be free from humidity and to be healthy; while the lands are represented as being fertile and adapted to all variety of products grown in this country.

The temperature here to-day is remarkably cool for this latitude, the thermometer being this evening 62° Fahrenheit; and there is a considerable breeze, with a slight drizzle of rain, which is said to be very common during this season. The town and country are however represented as healthy, and there is no physician residing in the municipality or district. Here, as elsewhere, the glands of the neck among the women are enlarged very much.

There is quite an assemblage of people here to join in the festivities of New Year’s Eve, and extensive preparations for a grand bonfire and illumination, with a display of fire-works on the fantastic order. A square pen of wood has been built in the open plaza to the height of fifteen (15) feet, with a collection of small sticks arranged on top for ignition, all of which is expected to burn to the ground in the course of the evening or night. The illumination at the front of the church is made by cups of the peel of a half orange, having oil and a taper, all arranged into the shape of a cross, but they do not give much brilliancy, and this display is rather a failure.

The rockets are of great variety; some giving reports like a musket, others discharging several balls of different hues, and again a few having a reversed action, by which a blazing mass is sent down amidst the men, women, and children, or dividing into numerous streams of fire, which dash hither and thither in all directions. The revolving fire-works were decidedly successful at the close.

A few brass instruments and a violin in the hands of genteel Germans afforded very good music.

NEW YEAR’S DAY, 1866.

This morning is clear and beautiful, with the thermometer at 64° degrees Fahrenheit, having risen two degrees since last night. Nature seems to be all in smiles to welcome the return of a new year. Oh, that my heart could feel in unison with this bright and sunny morning!

But while all around is joyous, all within is sadness. The old year of 1865 has come to a close, and the events which have transpired shroud the retrospect with gloom and sadness. Horrible in their reality, and almost maddening to the thought, I would gladly if it were in my power cease to think of what is past. Could the fruitless martyrdom of my three noble brothers be forgotten, the sad fate of many who are left behind cannot be torn from my consciousness and consigned to oblivion. The fact that my own wife and children have been deprived of a house and home by the ruthless hand of the hostile incendiary, stares me constantly in the face as a terrible reality. I cannot but feel very anxious for the present condition and the future well-being of those near and dear to me.

Four months entire have now elapsed since any intelligence has reached me from them or other friends, and the disturbed state of society around them causes me much concern.

My heart feels a weight and depression not in keeping with the advent of a new year; but, flying from the dark abyss of misery which reflection brings to view, let me occupy my thoughts with the persons and things around me.

The sound of music awoke us at early dawn, and several pieces were performed to welcome the coming of another year. Upon going out, we found quite a transformation in the plaza, by the planting of forty-two palm trees (species of palmetto) during the night, making an avenue from the front of the church. They are not expected to grow, but are merely placed here as a part of the festivities of the occasion, to be continued to-day.

The companions of my voyage thus far have now left me to return to Itapetininga, from which point they will proceed to Botocatu. Two mules were brought here by Mr. Bennaton, though it was known that no further provision was to be made for me. This purchase, at forty-seven and a half ($47.50) dollars for a saddle-mule, and thirty-five ($35) dollars for a pack-mule, is considerably below the prices at the capital, but above the average valuation in this region.

The outfit for three men and three attendants now consists of eighteen animals.

I remain here for the camarada, Senor Pedro Crano D’Oliveiro, to come with his mules, and proceed with me through the woods to Iporanga. All these men, though performing menial service, expect a certain deference to be shown them; and it is customary to give them the title of respect implied by Senhor on all occasions. In fact, no freeman, white or black, is ever addressed here without this, but it is usual to prefix it to the first part of the name, even with persons of distinction, instead of using the surname or family name as is done with us, in prefixing the word Mister through respect.

My old friend, the Catholic priest, who is vicar of this district, has given me a letter to a friend in Xiririca, and has likewise procured another from a gentleman here to a party in Iporanga, so that I will get assistance in both places, should I fail to meet Senor Street.

The priest belongs to the order of Friars, and signs himself accordingly Frei, in the prefix to his name. He has gone out to attend to his duties at the church, leaving us at his house without seeming to expect that any of us took any interest in attending the services. The long flowing gown, with a monk’s hood hanging on the shoulders, is worn habitually, as indeed the clerical attire is the common dress of priests everywhere in this country; but when he goes to the church, the ceremonial vestments are taken by his page to be used in the services.

I went to the church to-day for the purpose of witnessing the proceedings of the festa by the vicar; and with the assistance of a number of persons who were attired for the occasion, he went through various incomprehensible manœuvres, that served to attract and interest the large concourse of people. At the close of these performances, rockets and other sonorous fire-works were exploded most profusely.

In the afternoon there was a grand procession of these demonstrative people, in honor of our Lady of Conception, (Nossa Senhora de Conceicão.)

The figure of a female seated on a platform, that rested on a sort of hand-barrow, was carried upon the shoulders of four men, and another figure, representing some of the saints, supported in like manner, accompanied it, while a large rich awning was hoisted upon the ends of six poles in the hands of as many men, under which the old vicar and a brother priest moved forward with certain symbols, among which was a silver cross encircled by a halo of brightness. This other priest is also a friar, and gives his name in full as Frei José de Loro, Director de Tijuco Preto, Ministerio Apostolico Capuchinho. He is from Italy, as is also the old vicar, the former being in this country only eight months, while the latter has been here twenty years, and says he has almost forgotten his native tongue.

Formed into line, with music in full blast, they marched in much apparent solemnity with their heads bowed, throughout the principal streets of the town, accompanied by most of the men, women and children that were present. On the return of the procession, the explosion of fire-works was deafening, and had an appearance in mid-heaven like the bursting of bombshells, when a hot engagement of artillery is progressing.

An address was subsequently made in the church by the vicar, but was not adapted to my limited comprehension of the language.

The proportion of men present was small, and for the most part scrawny specimens, with very shabby dress, having in many instances a sort of cloak (ponché) which covers all other deficiencies of dress. The absence of men having better physique is attributable to their apprehension of being recruited for the army, which induces them to forego the indulgence of public festivities.

The number of women in attendance was very large, and with few exceptions of mixed blood, either of the Indian or negro. Some of them were comely in form and neatly dressed, but far the greater number were downright ugly. Here, more even than at other places, the old and the young have the glands of the neck enlarged, constituting goitre, or, as called here, “papo.” This affection is ascribed to various causes; humidity of the atmosphere, bad diet, or deficiency of nutritious food, sleeping in exposed situations, combined with the water of the serras, are the usual concomitants.

In the vicinity of the Alps, it is known to prevail extensively, and is attributed by some writers to the use of snow-water. But here we have no snow-water, while there exists a geological formation in these serras which corresponds to that mountainous region; and it is highly probable that there exists some peculiar mineralogical principle in the water coming from these elevations which produces this result.

The better class of people are rarely seen with it, yet even those with all the comforts of life are not entirely exempt when living in these situations adjacent to a serra.

The old vicar has a woman with several children in the house with him, who is housekeeper and without a husband; while the youngest of the children indicates clearly its paternity.

Those acquainted with the habits of some of the priesthood in Brazil will not regard this allusion as indelicate, or involving any thing unbecoming.

Though there were servants about the house, the vicar insisted upon doing most that was required for us.

TUESDAY, _January 2, 1866_.

Soon after I arose this morning, my old camarada, Senor Pedro, came in to make the announcement that all was ready for the anticipated voyage, and attributed his failure to go on yesterday to the straying of a mule. But my inference is, that he could not bear the idea of leaving this festa and grand procession, and availed himself of a subterfuge, to quiet my impatience under the delay beyond his time appointed for starting.

I was supplied with a cup of coffee, and gave my old friend, the vicar, a heartfelt expression of my thanks for his kindness; when he gave me his best wishes for a prosperous voyage, and embraced me after the Brazilian manner,[28] with a warmth which made me feel that I was leaving a real friend.

In repairing to the house of Senor Pedro, he provided some farina, stew of beef, and big hominy, with bananas, for my breakfast, which were despatched with the aid of a spoon, as knives and forks seemed to be no part of his household furniture. This finished, I found that all the family were preparing to set out with us, as we were to go that day to a place owned by this man some twenty miles distant in the country. The horses for the women were brought through the house and taken into the back yard for them to mount. They soon sallied forth all astride, with their skirts so arranged as to cover their nether extremities, and, having drawers with straps under their feet, they were in regular trim for the expedition.

The old woman and three grown daughters were all mounted after this style, and seemed to use their stirrups and manage their horses as if they had been used to this mode of travelling. Their saddles are somewhat different from those used by the men, having a quilted seat, which serves as a cushion to protect them in riding astride.

Upon going out of town, we fell in with another party of women who had a more genteel appearance, and were seated in the ordinary way upon side-saddles,—one of them being especially well provided with horse and equipments. She was a young lady, very tidily dressed, and rather the best-looking woman seen in this section. One of the women of this party was the wife of a son of my old camarada, and her husband was carrying their only child before him on his mule.

The third member of this party was the mother of the other two women, but they are all of a very different stamp from the family to which they have become connected by marriage, and I could not but think they viewed our party of women astride of their horses as presenting a disgusting aspect. One of the daughters of my escort had a young child, and carried it most of the way in her arms, while her mother, an old woman of fifty years, carried it the rest of the time. These women rode the entire twenty miles astride without dismounting, and did not show any particular fatigue on arrival.

Within half a mile of Paranapanema we entered the forest, and, for three miles, the soil was red, and would certainty produce a fair yield of any thing that might be cultivated.

This land lay remarkably level for the general character of the country, and yet none of it has ever been cleared up. Passing through this, the soil was of a dark aspect, with a clay basis, and, though sundry ravines interrupted the configuration of the surface, there was a great deal of land lying very favorably. Very little of it has been brought into use, but the few specimens of corn seen along the road presented a good appearance.

Upon approaching the place of Senor Pedro, a considerable river, São José, came into view; and he informs me that there is a water-fall of great extent, ten or twelve miles below, which is surrounded by timber, and yet has a road passing very near to it. This might be turned to account, should any one be tempted to locate in this drear and rude wilderness.

After our arrival, I accompanied Senor Pedro to examine his corn, and found it growing very luxuriantly—the stalks being, in most parts, ten feet high, and standing close upon the ground. His calculation is for thirty bushels to the acre, but it is likely to exceed that yield, if the earing is at all proportionate to the present prospect.

The country just at this place is very hilly, and there seems to be a great preference to the hillsides for planting, from the fact doubtless that the soil is better than on the level land.

There are pumpkin vines growing finely in this corn, and cucumber vines, and watermelon vines were seen in a patch near by growing well; yet none of them are sufficiently advanced to determine the result.

The few and isolated settlements seen upon our route to-day, as well as the one at which I am stopped, show very little regard for the comforts of life, or very little advance in civilized life.

If a picture of the interior of this domicil could be adequately portrayed, it would be a rich legacy to posterity, to dwell upon the meagre and filthy surroundings of this able-bodied family. In eating, the victuals were put on a towel upon a bench, and I occupied the only seat that was afforded by the establishment, while the fare was limited to farina, pork, and big hominy, with coffee.

I have looked at the bright side of society in this province, and now the opportunity is afforded to view and study another phase of the people; but the transition is sad to contemplate, and worse still to realize by actual participation.

The only redeeming feature about the place is a few very fat hogs in the yard, and there has not been seen anywhere more fat on an animal than covers one of these hogs.

The mules are also in fine condition, and most excellent travellers. What is out of doors meets the requirements of life very well, but enter the house and all is squalid wretchedness and beastly slovenliness. The people fare worse than the brutes.

My old camarada having me now in his power, informed me that it would be necessary to take one more horse than was expected in his arrangement with Mr. Bennaton, and that instead of going for ten dollars as he had agreed, that he must have seventeen dollars and fifty cents. Upon my objecting he then named fifteen dollars, saying that he would have to take provisions for us and the animals; and, under all the circumstances, I acceded to this proposition, as it is the exact amount supplied by Mr. Bennaton for expenses.

WEDNESDAY, _January 3, 1866_.

I brought out my blanket and pillow last night to facilitate the preparations of mine host for my night’s rest; and a rude bedstead with cords of the sipo vine, over which were some matting, a horse-blanket, and a sheet, gave promise of comfort. But the numerous fleas beset me so that I was induced to strip off shirt and drawers and wrap up in the blanket to protect myself against them. Getting once clear of these pests, and having the woollen blanket next my person, it was impracticable for them to make an entrance, as their legs get tangled in the wool so as prevent jumping, or even crawling to any considerable extent.