Chapter VII: Part 7

In some places there are numerous small fragments of clear rock crystal mixed up with this dark soil, which shine brightly by the contrast, and cause one to think there may be diamonds in the same region. I believe, however, that jewels and minerals of much value are confined to sterile lands.

This being the thirteenth anniversary of my marriage-day, it is recalled with many reflections as to the present wide separation from her who is united with me in the holy bonds of matrimony. The day and hour and attendant circumstances of our union have all been vividly brought to mind; and the many scenes of enjoyment, with some of sadness, which have marked our course in life, have caused emotions within my breast which those around knew nothing of, and which were not in unison with the stir and excitement of the past day.

We commenced this series of thirteen years in the full enjoyment of mutual affection, yet we did not and could not know each other’s heart and devotion as we have learned them by many repeated acts of self-sacrifice on the part of each for the other. No one, without the experience of that love which exists alone between husband and wife, can realize how entirely self may be absorbed in the devotion of the soul to the welfare and enjoyment of one another. If there was a joy or a sweet allowed me in this life which could not be shared by my wife, it would detract from the gratification I would have from it; and I know too well that every happiness which can be extended to me by my true-hearted and loving wife affords an increase of happiness to her. We have shared many trials together, and have become the parents of seven children; one of whom left us for a place among the angels of heaven, at the early age of eight months, while four interesting daughters and two sons of promising parts remain to cheer us still.

How pleasant and precious is the thought of again returning to enjoy the associations of my beloved wife and my darling children. There is no sentiment of the human heart that is more elevating and refining in its tendency than the love which a husband feels for his wife, and the affection he has welling up in his breast for his children.

“In its silence and beauty,
Its passion and power;
Love breathed o’er the land
Like the soul of a flower.”

In the heart of him who has a sincere regard for his family, love is truly as delicate and sensitive as the aroma of the sweetest flower. It is the most tender and devoted consecration of the soul to the interests and enjoyments of those cherished objects. It is the confiding sincerity and purity of faith which the affectionate husband and father realizes for those that are bound to him by the most holy and gentle ties of mutual love. It is not a hope, but a full and complete enjoyment of reciprocal attachment. The faith and trust are without a shadow of misgiving as to the return they will meet, and the soul rests in blissful consciousness of the love of wife and children.

The light beaming forth in the full glare of a noon-day sun may fail to convince me of the warmth of that brilliant orb; but the glow of delight which brightens the eye and lights up the features of my wife and my children when we meet, cannot, must not, and will not, leave the shadow of a doubt as to their affection for me. We live in the sweet realization of each other’s love, and it is accompanied by the most unselfish desire to promote the comfort and enjoyment of each other.

If I seek the good things of this life, it is that my family may share them with me. If I seek exemption from the cares and vexations of the world, it is to shield them from annoyance. If I seek preferment among my fellowmen, it is with the anxious thought that they may thus be brought into more desirable and honorable associations. If I seek social enjoyment, the most exquisite gratification is found in the interchange of cordial sentiments with my own loved ones at home. All in all, it is with the anticipation of such happiness in future days that I now seek a place of refuge from the troubles of my native land.

May God in his goodness and infinite mercy protect and sustain my wife and my children, while I am endeavoring to secure a home for them here, is the constant prayer of my heart.

I am now separated from all that is held dear in the associations of life; and no step has ever been taken heretofore which caused me so much anxiety and apprehension for the welfare of my family as leaving them in the midst of troubles and irregularities in society, such as the world has never witnessed before. But having taken all the preliminary steps which human forecast could suggest for the comfort of those near and dear to me, and with the attention of a kind friend, who would look after them and their interests with the care of a brother, I trust in the providence of a merciful God, that they may be preserved from all harm, and that we may be soon returned to each other in health, peace, and happiness.

SUNDAY, _November 5, 1865_.

This being the Sabbath, I announced my intention to make it a day of rest, and the old Colonel said he would remain with me, while the others purposed to take a ride of fourteen miles to the Tieté river. A huge bag of provisions was prepared for the expedition by our host, and a guide was expected to meet them at the town of Jahu. But notwithstanding all these preliminary arrangements, the trip was abandoned, and all remained quietly at the house of Dom José Correa Leite de Moraes for the day. He is a cousin of the Colonel.

Several gentlemen came to visit us from the surrounding country, and dined with us. Among them was a Catholic priest, Senor Francisco Ferreira Garcia, the vicar of this district, and Senor Lorenço de Arruda Prado, another cousin of Colonel Joaquim.

The former had the misfortune to be thrown from his mule after bidding some of our party good-by upon the road, but was not injured. The latter appeared to be a very clever gentleman, and is said to be a successful planter. In being introduced to him by my old friend, the Colonel, I was informed of his relationship, and on his leaving, I extended the customary assistance in mounting his mule, which is regarded here as a simple act of courtesy to a gentleman who visits you. This act of attention is a part of that general politeness which is observed among the best class of Brazilians, and struck us, as it must every one not familiar with the usages of the people, in the light of a menial service that was not compatible with the relation of one gentleman to another, yet custom makes it not only proper and becoming, but almost obligatory. The party assisting usually looses the horse, holds the bridle, and steadies the stirrups while the other mounts, and the guest is expected to avail himself of this assistance without regard to the age or rank of the person tendering it, though in some instances he may demur when he thinks circumstances should preclude it.

Our host is lively and intelligent, speaking French with fluency, and having a little knowledge of the English. Shortly after our arrival at his house, I made some remark to him in Portuguese, which at first was not understood, and he indicated his wish that it should be repeated, by the usual word, “Como?” (How?) I used the same expression again and was fully comprehended, and answered accordingly. Immediately after this, General Wood’s interpreter, Mr. Snell, who is an Englishman that has been a number of years in Brazil, spoke to the Dom in Portuguese, and he, taking this to be another American with a slim stock of the language, did not comprehend what was said, and replied to him, “Não entendo,” (I don’t understand.) This gave us a good laugh upon Mr. Snell. In my use of the language it was simply “Como?” but with him, who was here as interpreter, the party addressed was compelled to say “Não entendo,” taking him to be a novice in Portuguese. The fact is, that while Mr. Snell understands the language well, and speaks it fluently, he has a habit of cutting off the last syllable of his words, that makes it somewhat difficult at times to gather the full meaning of his remarks, and hence this mistake.

The lady of the house has evidently associated more with gentlemen than most of those occupying a like position, and hence appears more at ease in company, joining in general conversation with those who speak the language. She departs greatly from the habit of our ladies by suckling her child in the presence of gentlemen. Though she was in the dining-room during our meals, the crowded table was perhaps a sufficient reason for not being seated with us, and she was looking after the proper supply of articles by the servants, though the Dom seemed to assume the chief responsibility in this respect.

The culinary arrangements of this establishment, like most others in Brazil, are under the same roof with the residence of the family, and the fire is built upon the earthen floor in the open room, without any other outlet for the smoke than is afforded by the spaces between the tiles which cover the house. As it was rather cool during the evenings, we took a seat in a circle around this fire, and thus had a very sociable _family circle_, which gives me the key to an explanation of that term, which has never before been fully understood.

Our host follows the course of his kinsman, Colonel Joaquim Lorenço, in regard to the abundance of supplies upon his table at all three meals, and supper is quite equal to breakfast in the variety of the articles. I tell them that they give us three dinners every day, and if we were to remain stationary, all would be foundered in a short time, or take the gout, though I do not hear of this affection in the country.

We had for supper, this evening, a portion of the large fish called the Jahu, from which the river and town derived their names. It is a huge fish similar to our catfish, though the head is not so broad in proportion to its size, and the meat tastes more like that of scale fish. All relished it very much; and, though we had fared so well at breakfast and dinner, the Jahu tempted us to eat heartily.

We had an opportunity of examining, to-day, one of the large lizards of this country, called “lagarto,” and there is nothing to which it can be better compared than a young alligator of two and a half feet in length. The resemblance in its conformation to one of our small, gray lizards is almost perfect, and the flesh is said to be very fine, but its appearance is too suggestive of the class of reptiles for my taste. This specimen was caught by a servant, and brought into the house, for our inspection, while still alive. Many of them have been seen in the woods during our tour, and they are said to be inimical to the poisonous cobra, engaging and killing the snake whenever it is encountered. The large number of these lagartos, and the few cobras, that are found in our exploration of the forest, would favor the idea that the former have established the mastery. In this view, the lagarto should be preserved from injury, and, most assuredly, something more inviting can be found for food.

The lagarto has a forked tongue like a serpent, and thrusts it out in the same manner when disturbed. It is stated, also, that during the winter months, though there be no frost, they live in a state of torpidity after the mode of reptiles.

MONDAY, _November 6, 1865_.

In accordance with previous arrangements, we were all supplied with fresh animals by the fazendeiros of the neighborhood, and set out for Sapé and the river Tieté. Reaching the fazenda of Senor Paulo Lima about eight o’clock, after a ride of twelve miles, we found that he expected us to stop and take breakfast. Though his house and the surroundings did not present a very promising aspect, yet we found, in due course of time, a most excellent meal was served to us, and all were highly pleased with the plain courtesy of our host.

The lands lying between the Freguezia de Jahu and this point are located upon either side of the river Jahu, and rather irregular in general conformation. They are, for the most part, of a deep red color and of firm consistence, with more or less of the fudra de ferro, constituting the best quality of terra rocha. The Figeré Branca and the Pon d’Alho are conspicuous in most parts of this territory, and indicate the fertility of the soil.

Throughout this region, which includes a number of old settlements, and others of more recent date, much of the matto virgem (original forest) has been cleared off, and open fields of large extent are either in cultivation or in pasture for the use of horses and cattle.

The Rio Jahu pursues a very tortuous course, with frequent falls or rapids, and offers advantageous situations for machinery at various points. It runs into the river Tieté about sixteen miles from the town of the same name, Jahu; and the lands on each side of it, throughout this extent, are of the best quality; yet the steep hills and rather mountainous elevations of the precincts unfit some of the lands for proper cultivation. These high and irregular portions of ground would be very appropriate for coffee, as the hillsides and elevated lands are usually selected for this crop; while the low flat lands in this section are liable to some frost in the cold season.

I am informed that the quality of the soil is equally good to the distance of three leagues, or twelve miles, on the north side of the Rio Jahu, and to the distance of two leagues, or eight miles, on the south side. In this extensive area there are a few small patches of less valuable land, but in the main, it will be found that the soil is of the deep red color, or of the dark brown order, and lying in many parts very advantageously for cultivation.

After breakfasting we set out again, and passing the obscure capella of Sapé, we travelled sixteen miles to the fazenda of Senor Louiz Pereira Barbose, where we were expected by previous notice from our friend the old Colonel. Though the house was small, and the resources for accommodating so large a number rather limited, yet he manifested a disposition to do all in his power for the comfort of the party.

We rode over a comparatively level region in coming from the house of Senor Lima to this place, and though not giving evidence of so much fertility as that near the Rio Jahu, it is generally of good quality, and is well supplied with water for ordinary domestic purposes. There was no portion of useless land seen upon this route, and no campos have been encountered since leaving the town of Brotas. The timber throughout this plateau is of good size, and much of it very favorable for splitting to make fences, as the quarenta, which grows especially abundant near the fazenda at which we are stopped. This tree is very durable when made into rails, and has its name from the impression that it lasts during forty years. In entering the premises, I observed the neatest and most substantial fencing yet seen in Brazil, and was informed that the rails are of this material. One end of the rails is embedded in the earth, and they are arranged side by side in a perpendicular form, with a cross-bar of the palmetto running horizontally about two feet from the top, which is secured by being lashed continuously with the sipo vine. This sipo is a long and slender vine of surprising strength and flexibility, which is used for confining the rafters of houses, tying timbers together where pegs or nails would be used with us, baling cotton, and, indeed, for any purpose to which ropes might be applied. It is called in common parlance the Brazilian nail, and it is remarkable to what an extent it is made a substitute for nails.

It is particularly well suited for constructing these stake-fences, and no better enclosure can be devised for the protection of a crop against large or small intruders.

General Wood, Doctor Warne, and Mr. Snell parted from the rest of us at the house of Senor Lima, and went down to the mouth of the Jahu, and descended the river Tieté in canoes for two miles. They gave a favorable account of the general outline of the banks on each side, but found the channel of the river so shallow in several places that the canoes came in contact with the bottom, and it was requisite for the boatmen to draw them over by getting out into the water. There was one point at which there were rapids or falls, and they got out upon the shore, while those in charge of the canoes carried them over the fall, receiving them again below into the canoes.

This being a drought of many months continuance, the river is said to be lower than it has been before for twelve years, and the ordinary level of the water is stated to be six feet above its present state. It is thought by persons acquainted with the river, that there is sufficient water during the rainy months, to afford a passage for flat-bottomed propellers to Perecicaba, from which point there is a wagon-road to Campinas, and from thence the railroad will perhaps be available in a few years.

From the account received, and from my personal inspection of the river, I think there is but little prospect of navigating it with safety, and unless there be a practicable route for a railway to this region of country, its products must depend on transportation by pack-mules.

The elevated serra near Brotas is perhaps the most serious obstacle to a railroad, and it remains for engineers to determine whether this can be overcome.

If a line of railroad is extended to Araraquara, and can communicate with the Rio Jaceré below Cambury, then this section of country lying between the Tieté and Jaceré might avail itself of the Jaceré for navigation up to that point, and thus get an outlet for its products.

The Jaceré is represented to have a deep and open channel from its mouth up to Cambury; and all the rich region lying between it and the Tieté and extending along the Jahu would be better accommodated by effecting this result than to attempt to navigate the Tieté upwards.

TUESDAY, _November 7, 1865_.

Having but a limited number of beds, our host provided some dried raw-hides which were spread upon the dirt floor, and about one-half of our party slept upon them, with their overcoats, &c., assisting to fill out the scanty supply of bedding. There was no particular inconvenience experienced except from the fleas, which found ready access to our friends upon the hides and interrupted somewhat the quietness of their repose. Mr. Snell and myself were perched upon a long high table, and being thus above the jumping height of a flea we fared very well. I have carried a blanket and pillow throughout my trip, and found them with my overcoat very convenient on this occasion. A bed had been assigned to me, but feeling that our good friend Senor Joaquim Lorenço should of all others be provided for, I persuaded him to occupy the bed, and I slept comfortably upon the table during the whole night.

With the good spirit exhibited by our host we all tried to be satisfied, and though it was quite different from the comforts received at other places, he evidently did the best which his resources would allow.

The meals were abundant and well prepared, with another large Jahu fish to grace the table. As I had brought along some tomato catsup, it was drawn forth on this occasion to give a zest to the fine fish, and the entire bottle was consumed.

In connection with this, I have transported likewise from the outset, four cans of tomatoes, two cans of mutton, and one can of partridge, thinking that we would find ourselves in some situation where the necessaries of life could not be obtained; yet we have had no occasion to use them, and will not perhaps have need for them anywhere.

After an early breakfast, I set out with Dr. Warne, Dr. Wissen, Messrs. Brown and Kernan, accompanied by Senor José Rebeiro Camargo, as our escort and guide, to visit a portion of the lands lying between us and the Rio Jaceré. This river was stated to be about sixteen miles distant, and thinking it would be impracticable to make the trip to the river, and return, I proposed to make a circuit, so as to return by a different route from that upon which we went out. Passing some grounds under cultivation shortly after starting, the corn and beans with sweet potatoes gave fine promise of the coming crop, and the lands in this vicinity are evidently of good quality; but after passing some miles farther, there was an inferior grade of soil with occasional indications of barrenness.

We made a halt at the house of Senor Ignacio Borgia Pedrosa, where wine and coffee were served. Some large oxen in the front of the house showed that the grass had nutritious properties, while some mares and colts running at large presented a good appearance. Subsequent to this our escort took us to the residence of Senor Candido Pereira Barbosa, but as he was absent, and we did not wish to wait for dinner, we accepted the tender of coffee, and made a lunch of sardines and cheese which had been brought to meet our necessities. Upon riding into the fields we saw some young coffee trees growing from the seed. They were two years old and looked flourishing; but with great diversity in size, resulting probably from a deficient stand when first planted, and requiring to be replanted. No estimate could be made as to the result in maturing of the coffee trees.

The lands here were of a reddish aspect, with a considerable portion of sand, and presented a favorable appearance under cultivation; but the soil is not equal to that of the lands adjacent to the Rio Jahu; nor were any of the lands seen upon our route of the first order. For the most part the surface was gently undulating, and this general tableau was supplied with a variety of excellent timber, among which the quarenta was observed to grow of full size, and abundantly.

The supply of water was confined to small branches or runs, that might be made available for a monjolo, or perhaps for a small grist-mill, but not adapted to machinery on a large scale. The largest stream traversing this section of country was stated to lie somewhat beyond the line of our route, and this may present more favorable conditions for water-power. So far as my personal observation goes, the Rio Jahu is the only reliance for the location of machinery anywhere convenient to this territory.

We had quite an adventure in the attempt of Senor Camargo to ascend a tree to gather some jaboticabas for us, and it had well nigh proved a serious matter. The body of the tree having no limbs for some distance up, he climbed as far as his strength would permit, and being unable to reach the limbs, or even to sustain himself in his grasp upon the smooth surface of the tree, he let loose and slided down most precipitately. He then secured a pole to the side of the tree with sipo, and going to the top of it had another handed up to him, which was secured above in like manner, and thus he succeeded in getting us a delicious bait of the fruit.

We returned by way of Sapé, which, though it has a few small houses in close proximity, should not be recognized as entitled to a name. In going up we passed this place without giving it a special notice; and some of the party were not apprised that any place claiming a name had been passed. It is simply a collection of some half dozen dirty hovels, and yet has a shop, at which a thirsty gentleman in our party found he could get a drink of cachaça, and stopped us to look at him go through with the performance. The patron saint of this humble refectory was a corpulent Frenchman, who had recently bought a considerable tract of land in the neighborhood, and was holding it upon speculation. He doubtless thought a good time was coming, when he was informed of our object in visiting this section, and declined to sell even at an advance of two millreas an alqueric, or sixteen and two-thirds cents per acre.

At the most remote point of our trip to-day land was valued at forty cents per acre; while here, at Sapé, it is estimated at eighty cents per acre; and between this point and Senor Lima’s one hundred dollars per acre is the price affixed. In the vicinity of Jahu two hundred dollars an acre was the valuation put upon a tract of land, which was equal to any in the country, and thus the standard prices of this section may be considered as fairly stated above, upon the authority of landowners.

We returned to our rendezvous a while before night, and found the rest of the company had not stirred beyond the premises during the day; and some of them were perched upon some timber for machinery that lay in the yard, while others met us, while relaxing their limbs in a short walk from the house toward the outer gate of the enclosure.

WEDNESDAY, _November 8, 1865_.

We left the fazenda of Senor Louiz Pereira Barbose at 6 o’clock this morning, after partaking of an early breakfast, and returned to the house of our old friend Senor Lima. Here he had collected his breeding stock for our observation; and though the mares were generally of small size, there were a few very good young horses, and the colts for the most part looked well. It is a little remarkable to observe how entirely quiet the stallions are, when allowed to run at large in this way with a promiscuous drove of animals. There was a jackass also running with the stock, yet I saw no young mules; and the dull and lifeless aspect of this animal gave no promise of an increase of his stock. There were thirty mares, and if even this number were employed in rearing mules, it would doubtless prove profitable; but this scrubby specimen of horses, which are propagated, are not likely to give much return for the trouble of looking after them. These animals subsist entirely upon grass, and very rarely get salt, as it is too costly at these interior places to be afforded for stock, except in very small quantities.

Dining with Senor Lima we proceeded afterward upon the same route by which we had gone up, and reached the residence of Senor Dom Correa Leite de Moraes at four o’clock in the afternoon. He and his wife received us again most hospitably, and have extended all the kindness possible to our whole party.

Our saddle-mules have remained here in his pasture, and been fed with corn daily from his crib, while our clothing has been washed and ironed in our absence. The pack-mules have been sent off this afternoon so as to keep ahead to-morrow.

THURSDAY, _November 9, 1865_.

Our cheerful and hospitable friend, Dom José Correa Leite de Moraes, and his kind lady, received our cordial acknowledgments at leaving them this morning. Our own mules being fresh, moved off with alacrity, and upon reaching the Freguezia de Jahu, we were met by Senor José Rebeiro Camargo, and invited to the house of his son-in-law, where wine and coffee were served, and his wife and daughter came out to bid us adieu. It was thought that this demonstration was in part for the purpose of showing his unmarried daughter to one of the young men, to whom the father had taken a fancy for a son-in-law. But I doubt if the impression was well calculated to promote his wishes for incorporating an American graft into his family. This young man was furnished with a list of the entire family, and received a very cordial embrace from the father at parting.

We breakfasted at the fazenda of Senor Joaquim Oliveiro Mattozinto, and found him this time awaiting our arrival, with every thing in readiness for giving us a substantial entertainment. He had very kindly furnished mules for some of our party during the recent trip, and had accompanied us in person until sickness made it necessary for him to return.

The land from Jahu to this fazenda is of superior quality, being of the dark brown order, and as this is eight miles from the Rio Jahu, it may be inferred that this fine soil extends to a like distance from the river elsewhere on this side, which corresponds to the statement made in regard to the breadth of good land extending along this stream.

The general health of this region of country is very good, yet there are cases of chill and fever reported upon the Tieté and Jaceré, and throughout the region lying adjacent to those water-courses. No instance was brought to my knowledge of malarial disease remote from these streams; and, from the general aspects of the country, I would not think it likely to prevail to any considerable extent away from their margins.

I saw but two instances of goitre or bronchocele in this entire region of country, and the information received from Dom Correa is conclusively that they were not generated here, but imported from other parts. There is no serra here, and so far as my observation goes, goitre is confined to those living in the vicinity of the serras.

This section and the country about Araraquara are the only parts visited thus far in which this ugly deformity did not prevail amongst the women.

It is not however confined to the women exclusively, as several instances have been seen among males, and the condition of climate, water, atmosphere, or diet, which promotes the development of this condition, cannot be favorable to the constitutional health of those exposed to its influence. No leprosy found here.

We halted at a small shop upon our route to-day, where oranges were sold at the rate of four for a cent; and all of us having a relish for this fruit, concluded we never could satisfy our taste more cheaply, so we turned to and ate the whole stock in trade. One gentleman was reported to have eaten fourteen oranges, but I thought that a full complement was received with half of that number, and it puzzled me to know how any one eat more than I did in the same length of time.

A large concourse of persons on horseback were met to-day, males and females, dressed out in their best clothes. Some of them were provided with musical instruments, and there was a train of pack-mules, upon one of which there were two immense boxes, and sundry smaller trunks upon the others. We understood that it was a movement to celebrate the feast of the Holy Ghost at the Freguezia de Jahu, which is done yearly by the Catholics here.

Returning by a different route from that of our trip in going up, we encountered extensive campos, and soil generally of inferior quality, until we reached the Serra de Brotas, upon which the land, as stated previously, is very good, and lies favorably.

We reached the residence of Senor Domingos José Carneiro (son-in-law of the old Colonel) this afternoon at 5 o’clock, when we were kindly received by him and his wife, and found every thing arranged for the comfort of the entire party.

A letter was received this afternoon from our faithful friend, Senor Joaquim Lorenço, responding in the most feeling terms to a communication made to him by our entire party in leaving his house. As the two letters may be now inserted together, and may give those who read these pages an idea of the relations subsisting with this noble-souled Brazilian, I will give a translation of his in connection with that sent by us.

ARARAQUARA, _November 2, 1865_.

The following-named persons, recently from the United States of America, and their companions, have received such favors at your house and such assistance from you in the examination of the lands of Araraquara, that we desire to leave with you an expression of our great obligations and our sincere thanks for your kindness.

Having visited this section in search of a future home for our families, we have found you a friend that makes all of us desire to be your neighbor, and to become residents of your section of this country.

We go to look at other lands, and to ascertain the resources of other places, feeling that no people can extend to us a more cordial and generous hospitality than we have received here from you.

With the most heartfelt gratification for your reception and treatment during our sojourn with your family, please to accept our best wishes for the happiness of yourself and those composing your household.

W. W. W. WOOD,
J. MCF. GASTON,
[Names of all others composing the party.]

TO ILLM. SENOR LENENTI CORONAL JOAQUIM LORENÇO CORREA.

JAHU, _November 8, 1865_.

GENERAL W. W. W. WOOD, DOM GASTON,
and other gentlemen, companions of the voyage:

With undivided pleasure I received your letter of the second of the current month, in which with great magnanimity you manifest your sentiments of gratitude for the little or no service which I rendered you during your brief stay in the woods of Araraquara.

In returning to your firesides, which in a short time you intend to abandon, choosing for your new home and that of your children the land of the Holy Cross, where it was my fortune to be born, say to your countrymen that in this land there are generous hearts that sympathize much with the southern inhabitants of the United States of North America.

Coming to dwell in these lands, I hope you may be happy, promoting the happiness of yourselves, and the future happiness of your children. And you may be sure of this, that here you will always find one friend, faithful and sincere.

JOAQUIM LORENÇO CORREA.

My personal relations to this gentleman inspired a sort of parental regard for him, which makes me cherish this kind memento more perhaps than others of the company, and I have therefore preserved the original, as a souvenir of his friendship and generosity. We all desired to have a likeness of our good friend, by which we might be constantly reminded of that genial expression which springs from his pure heart; but the photographists in this section are very poorly provided with materials, and could not take the impression.

The high appreciation which all of us have for the character of Senor Joaquim Lorenço is only in keeping with the estimate in which he is held by all with whom we have conversed, in the vicinity of Araraquara; and he is, with one accord, regarded as the leading spirit of all that country. His title of Lieutenant-Colonel is by virtue of his position as commandant of the national guard of the district, and from his admirable management for our tour, I should expect him to conduct a campaign very successfully. All was done quietly by him, and in his discipline upon his premises no loud word or confusion ever occurred, but every thing progressed with great regularity.

FRIDAY, _November 10, 1865_.

Leaving the house of our kind host, Senor Domingos José Carneiro, we descended the Serra de Brotas by a most precipitous route, differing from that of our ascent, which was very steep, in being likewise very rugged and narrow. It was not desirable to remain upon our mules in making this passage down a steep, irregular, and rocky road, so that all but one of the party dismounted, and lead our animals. The father of our host, Senor José Venancio Carneiro, having spent the night with us, they both accompanied us this morning, and upon arriving at the villa of Brotas we found that the elder gentleman had arranged for us to take refreshments at his house, where we had dined in passing through. The table was provided with very fine canned peaches and other fruits, while wine and coffee were also served, thus tempting us to eat, though we had so recently taken a hearty breakfast where we spent the night.

How we parted finally with our true-hearted friend, Senor Joaquim Lorenço Correa, which was quite a touching scene, in the manifestation of deep feeling with him and with all of us.

In company with Senor Domingos we proceeded sixteen miles, for the most part through a dreary campo, to the fazenda of Senor Francisco Antonio Macede, who is a son-in-law of Senor José Venancio, and by whom we were joined at this place in the course of the evening after our arrival.

Coffee was growing here in great luxuriance, and one single tree was pointed out to us which yielded over one arroba (which is thirty-two pounds) at a single crop. The trees were unusually large, and hence had the appearance of being too crowded in most parts of the field.

Several patients were prescribed for at this place, and I was impressed with the ingenuity displayed in a truss of domestic manufacture, which was worn by a negro man, laboring under hernia. Of course, no charge was made for advice anywhere, while enjoying the generous hospitalities of the people, though they frequently asked for my bill, when services were rendered, as at this place.

The sun was oppressively hot during the latter part of our ride to-day, and this was followed by a shower of rain just as we arrived, but it was slight, scarcely laying the dust. The country is suffering from need of rain, and that topic, which ordinarily is regarded commonplace, becomes now one of great interest to travellers as well as planters. While we find the dust from a large number of animals occasionally troublesome, the heat is of course more intense when the earth is dry and parched than it would be if some evaporation was taking place from a damp surface. Still, however, we do not find travelling in the heat of the day attended with greater inconvenience than during the summer in the Southern States, and we are now approaching the hottest season of this latitude. It would be preferable for those exploring this country to travel early in the morning and late in the evening, and the arrangement of hours for breakfast and dinner could be made so as to lie by during the entire hot portion of each day, with greater comfort to man and beast.

A sumptuous lunch, brought by Senor Domingos, was eaten with oranges, upon stopping to-day, and was followed by coffee furnished at this place. It will be seen that these people know how to provide for the inner man. A dinner of most ample proportions was served at six o’clock, and all had to rally their appetites again.

SATURDAY, _November 11, 1865_.

After taking breakfast at an earlier hour than usual, we left the fazenda of Senor Francisco, accompanied by him and his father-in-law, Senor José Venancio.

This old gentleman seems determined to make amends for his absence from home when we first visited his house; and, in response to a letter of introduction which I delivered to him, he said that he stood ready to aid us in any way we might command his services. He said that in the event our people should conclude upon coming anywhere in this region of country, to give him notice, and transportation would be provided free of cost to as many as he could find mules to accommodate, either of his own or other parties.

My attention was attracted this morning by the peculiar yelping of a large bird of the ostrich order, which I endeavored to get a sight of, but being very shy, it ran away and was concealed in the thick shrubbery of the campo.

We passed the small stream Rio Onca (tiger river) and the large and clear water-course Rio Lobos (wolf river), where a small piece of matto virgem (original forest) of good quality was entered, which was the only relief to the extended campos, until we approached near to the fazenda of Senor Joaquim Firmino de Oliveiro.

Here we stopped, and were regaled with an ample supply of jaboticabas, that fruit which, once eaten, no one can ever fail to enjoy. Having dined in a very substantial way with this gentleman, some of the party concluded to remain there with General Wood for the night; while I came with others to the city of Rio Claro, in the midst of a considerable fall of rain.

We stopped at the house of Dr. J. H. Gattiker, a Swiss physician, and in his absence were courteously received and entertained by his dignified and yet affable lady.

SUNDAY, _November 12, 1865_.

With our wants of every kind provided for in the best style, the beds were especially neat, having damask covers lined with silk, and the pillow-cases trimmed with fringe of the most tasteful pattern. The towels were also of fine material, and each end trimmed with fringe. Before making our toilet, coffee was served at our rooms in those beautiful china cups which are found generally in the houses of the better class of people. When I left my room, the Doctor was found in the parlor waiting to receive us; and, knowing that any thing from the United States, just now, would interest us, he went out and procured some copies of the Presbyterian newspaper, from the house of the Rev. Mr. Snyder, which were particularly appropriate for the day. I called, subsequently, and saw Mrs. Snyder; but, not finding Mr. Snyder at home, her tender of hospitality was declined for the present time.

General Wood and the rest of the party arrived in time to join us at a very late breakfast, and it was really a feast of fat things, in great variety and much good taste. I was seated at one end of the table, with the lady of the house upon my left hand, and I made such use of my limited stock of Portuguese as was necessary in communicating with her.

Some of our companions proposed to go to Ybicaba to-day, while the General and myself, with Mr. Snell, as interpreter, concluded to remain quietly here; and I wrote a lengthy communication for my friends, and also a letter to my wife, as appropriate Sunday-work.

All of us dined together; and the most bountiful supply was arranged in the greatest elegance upon the extended table, with a huge, fat turkey dressed in the best style, from the carving of which the General relieved our hostess.

MONDAY, _November 13, 1865_.

Our kind hostess furnished us with a cup of most excellent chocolate, before breakfast, this morning, though coffee had already been served prior to leaving our rooms. The General said that all his needs were supplied by this nutritious drink, and becoming very impatient at the delay of breakfast, proposed to go without waiting for it. But Dr. Gattiker would not hear of our going without breakfast; and, indeed, after breakfast, we had great difficulty in getting off from him, as he insisted we must spend the day at his house. I was favored with photographs of the Doctor and his wife, which will be treasured up in the collection of my friends in Brazil—she being a native of the country.

Upon starting, it was found that my mule was suffering from the loss of a shoe, and it became necessary for me to stop on the road, that he might have it replaced. General Wood and Mr. Snell, in the mean time, adopted my suggestion, and proceeded to Ybicaba. As the camaradas were behind, I awaited their arrival, and, taking one of their mules, he remained to bring mine when it was shod.

I made a fruitless attempt to advance upon this lazy and perverse mule, but at length, in despair, stopped upon the roadside, and dismounted to await the arrival of my own. Here, in the wild forest, it occurred to me that a tiger or other wild beast might attack me, but I congratulated myself that I could get out of the way faster on foot than upon this stupid animal, and it might be that the carnivorous propensity of the wild occupant of the woods would be satisfied with the tough carcass of the old mule, which I would leave to his tender mercies.

I thought we had started with some of the most shabby animals that the province could afford, but some of those which were left at Ybicaba by General Wood’s party were even worse than the two left by us. These animals were such as had been in use for the military service, and were turned out upon such pasturage as the lands around the city of São Paulo would furnish, which, from notice under a former date, may be inferred would not have the effect of improving their flesh or strength. Of such as the President had, gave he unto us; and we were thankful for the small service they rendered in getting us to places where we were generously supplied by our friends with better animals.

A few of the public animals were retained for the trip by General Wood’s party, and we kept two mules in service that were improved by the regular feeding, with comparatively light work under our pack-saddle.

As we are booked to remain as the guests of Senor Vergueiro to-morrow, it is expected that some of the camaradas will proceed with this drove of emaciated horses and mules in advance, so as to allow them to move leisurely. Some of them are scarcely able to drag their bare bones along, and they will accordingly go in light-moving order, without incumbrance of any sort.

The entire number of horses and mules belonging to both parties amounts to thirty-three, and there are about one-half the number belonging to parties at different points on the road, who had furnished them for the expedition, while perhaps there are a half dozen of the public animals in service, leaving ten of the nondescripts going loose.

TUESDAY, _November 14, 1865_.

The following items are furnished by Senor José Vergueiro as the standard valuation of articles in this section:

HORSES. PRICES. Tamed and broken $25.00 to $40.00 Untamed 20.00 to 25.00 Mares 4.00 to 6.00 Stallions same as castrated. Jacks 50.00 to 100.00

MULES. PRICES. Broken for pack-mules $30.00 to $35.00 Riding 40.00 to 50.00 Untamed, by the lot 12.50 to 15.00 Pack-saddles 10.00 Ox-hides, (sun-dried) 1.00 to 2.50 Oxen for work, (pair) 30.00 to 40.00

HOGS. PRICES. For fattening, (each) $4.00 to $5.00 Fattened (neat) per pound 4½ to 5 cents. Breeders, (each) $3.00 to $4.00 Pigs, (according to stock) 1.00 to 7.00 Sheep, (not much grown) 75 to 1.00 Goats 1.00 to 1.50 Cows, (milch, by lot) 7.00 to 7.50 Cows, (milking, single) 12.50 to 15.00 Calves 2.50 Bulls, (according to breed) 30.00 to 50.00 Bullocks, (not fattened) 10.00 to 11.00 Bullocks, (fattened) 12.50 to 20.00

NEGROES. PRICES. Men, women and children together $500.00 to $750.00 Men separately 900.00 to 1000.00 Hire of men and women from Minas 40.00 to 60.00

The above with feed, clothing and medical attention by year.

Corn, (now 50 cents to 75 cents,) average per bushel 25 Beans, (now $3.00 to $5.00,) average per bush. 75 to 1.00 Rice, (now $4.00 to $5.00,) „ „ „ 75 to 1.25 Cotton in seed, per hundred pounds 3.75 to 4.00 Coffee, (retail in country,) per pound 8 to 12 Leather, per side 1.50 to 2.50 [20]Hats, (home-made,) of fur, $2.00 to $2.50; of wool, $1.00 to $1.50.

Dom João Guilheoma D’Aguier Whitaker, Juiz de Direita, da Comarca de São João de Rio Claro, informs us that he has been directed by his family connection and friends to put at the service of our people, when they may arrive at Santos, a sufficient number of mules to transport them and their effects.

Senor Vergueiro has furnished General Wood with thirty-six different varieties of wood, which are to be found in the district of Lemaire, and suited to different domestic purposes, of which the names are given below.

Arindiaba, (very durable.)
Cabrinba, (for building.)
Yssé, (for building.)
Saguaragy, (for building.)
Sucupyra, (for building.)
Tayúba, (for building.)
Assaçafrá, (for building.)
Canella preta, (for building.)
Jacoranda, (rose wood.)
Cavyúna, (for building.)
Gualrynoyra, (for building.)
Jataby, (for building.)
Cajarâna, (for building.)
Araribá, (for fencing.)
Guaranta, (splits well for rails.)
Peroba, (fine canoes.)
Peroba-Merim, (for building.)
Guarabytá, (for building.)
Cedro, (door and window shutters.)
Jiquitiba, (for building.)
Timbo, (for building.)
Gleo, (valuable fruit.)
Guatambu, (for fencing.)
Açoita-Carallos, (for building.)
Caxétas, (for building.)
Vatinga, (for building.)
Alecryser, (for building.)
Chimbé, (for fencing.)
Batáia, (canoes.)
Maria Preta, (for building.)
Figueira, (for building.)
Jugá, (for building.)
Guabiroba, (for building.)
Guarahyúba, (for fencing.)
Pitanga, (for fencing.)
Jaboticaba, (delicious fruit.)

These specimens of wood represent the useful growths of timber in this district of the province of São Paulo, and there are likewise a great number of palm trees, different qualities of cane, (bamboo and taqueira,) with a variety of vines, of which the sipo is especially valuable for cordage and other uses.

The guaranta is the best material for fencing, as it splits readily and is very durable. The hardness of most of the wood in this country is the most serious obstacle to using it in the form of plank.

Specimens of the following-named grasses have likewise been furnished to General Wood:

Gramminha.
Gramminha fina.
Pé de galinha.
Passuam.
Cassium Gerdura.
Gramma Naturæ.
Gramma larga.
Cassium Milham.*
Cassium Angelinha.*
Cassium de Angola.*

Those marked thus * are suitable for cutting and curing as hay, and we find this fazendeiro has a considerable amount dried and stored away for use as may be required.

As there is no frost here to destroy the grass, and animals can run upon the pastures throughout the year, very few persons think it necessary to cure hay, yet these high grasses are cut and fed to milch cows, or to horses that are not put out to graze, and thus they are very useful.

During the cooler months of winter, and when there is a protracted drought in the warm season, none of the grasses grow so luxuriantly, and the grazing is of course much impaired, so that it is very convenient to lay up a supply of hay, as is done at this place during the season of full development, and retain it to meet emergencies.

This region of country is more particularly adapted to agricultural operations, and makes a better return under cultivation than to be used for pasturage, yet grass is produced of the best quality when it is allowed to grow naturally or the land is planted artificially with either the seed or the radicals of the different grasses. One of the varieties of cassium is propagated entirely by transplanting the roots, from which it extends.

Combining a notice of the habits and customs of the people with a record of their material resources, it is my privilege to note the entertainment given us to-day by our host. Quite a number of his friends were invited to join us at dinner, and the preparations for the feast were most elaborate. There were twenty-six persons seated at the table, including the lady of the house, whose quiet dignity gave a grace to the elegant style in which all was arranged. Our party were seated in juxtaposition to each other, General Wood being in the middle, and having Dr. Warne on his left hand and myself on his right. On the opposite side to us was seated Mr. Henry Whitaker, who was to act as interpreter. From this portion of the table there extended at right angles two wings, at which the other guests were seated, Senor Vergueiro being at the end of one of the wings and Dom Whitaker, Juiz Direita, at the end of the other. Senhora was seated at one of the angles adjoining the portion of the table occupied by our party, and thus as will be perceived entirely separated from her husband.