Chapter VI: Part 6

In the afternoon I was summoned by Mr. Bennaton to join a party who were going out, and found they were preparing for a hunt. I was offered a gun, and the gentlemen of the family were very much surprised at my refusal to accept it, as they had previously understood that I was fond of shooting. Though I declined the gun, the Sabbath was violated by accompanying the huntsmen on horseback. Several shots were fired by different members of the party, at a species of partridge nearly as large as a chicken, but no game was secured, and a shower of rain induced a precipitate return to the house. I told them it was a judgment sent upon us for violating the Sabbath, and resolved not to be again lead into such a departure from my sense of duty. Fortunately our baggage had arrived and afforded us dry clothes.

Shortly after our return, there arrived two visitors from the villa, who were also quite wet, and had to avail themselves of a supply of dry clothes from our host and his son. One of these gentlemen was Senor Dom Aguiar, Municipal Judge, and the other was Senor Lenente Coronal Antonio Carlos de Arruda Botilho, who owns a large fazenda some thirty miles distant, at which he resides.

Having friends and business relations with this place, this latter gentleman is frequently in the villa of Araraquara, and is held in good repute by those residing in the neighborhood. With these people a ride of thirty miles is a small matter, as they frequently set out at or before daylight, and make the distance upon a good mule before breakfasting. From the lateness of the hour at which these gentlemen came, I suppose they expected to remain for the night, and now since they have changed their own clothes for others belonging to the family, there is no alternative. The social relations among people in this country who are on a basis of equality seems to be accompanied with great freedom of intercourse, and liberty in their deportment about the dwellings of each other, while nothing like rudeness, or want of proper personal respect, has attracted my attention.

While it is my purpose to record as far as practicable every thing which may illustrate the industrial resources of Brazil, it also appears to be proper that I should give such incidents as may serve to give an idea of the manners and customs of the people, and this must be done in some cases by implicating myself in scenes that do not comport with my views of propriety, as to-day.

MONDAY, _October 23, 1865_.

A letter from the President of the province of São Paulo being received by Mr. Bennaton, from which he inferred that General W. W. W. Wood, of Mississippi, needed his assistance on the way to this point, he proposed to return for the purpose of meeting him. I declined to accompany him, and told him it would suit me better to remain in this vicinity, for the purpose of examining such places as might be conveniently visited during his absence.

My old friend, Colonel Joaquim Lorenço, invited me to sojourn at his house, and kindly offered to aid me in looking around the country, or in any other matter that might be desired.

He authorized Mr. Bennaton to say to me that there is a very comfortable house upon an adjoining place to this, which he will cheerfully furnish for the use of my family, and that he will also supply them with provisions and all other necessaries for living, free of all cost, until some more satisfactory arrangement can be made for them, and invites me to bring them here should a purchase be made anywhere in this region.

I returned my most profound thanks for this generous offer, and felt truly that “a friend in need is a friend indeed.” As yet, however, I am unable to say whether circumstances will permit me to accept the proposition, though it is evidently tendered in good faith, and with the expectation that a location for my friends may be found in this vicinity. I rode out with my host to see the house and grounds offered for my family, and found every thing more inviting than most dwellings in this country, with abundant supply of water.

Mr. Bennaton having left, I find myself thrown upon my own resources in communicating with those around me, and though attended with much embarrassment and difficulty, it will serve greatly to advance my knowledge of the Portuguese language.

The apparent cheerfulness with which the old Colonel and other members of the family render me assistance is a great relief in my awkward efforts to use the few phrases I have learned. From time to time I have been studying the Portuguese grammar, but have the misfortune to be provided with a very badly-arranged and unsatisfactory edition that was given me by my friend, the Rev. A. L. Blackford, at São Paulo. It is by E. F. Granert, of Cleveland, Ohio, who resided for some years in Brazil, but certainly has not acquired the art of making a grammar to facilitate a knowledge of the language. I could have made considerable progress in learning the vocabulary on my voyage across the water, but regarding the pronunciation of prime consequence, in the first acquisition of words, I purposely deferred committing words or phrases to memory, until I could avail myself of the assistance of persons speaking the language, and thus get a correct pronunciation.

I am still impressed with the importance of this course, as none of the rules can enable the learner to get an accurate idea of the peculiarities of the spoken tongue.

A little son of Senor Joas de Almida Leite Morais, another son-in-law of my host, is at present suffering from an attack of cholera morbus at São Lorenço, and is under my treatment. A prescription has been written out, and sent to the apothecary at the villa, who filled it very satisfactorily, and all promises well.

TUESDAY, _October 24, 1865_.

My little patient is entirely relieved by the treatment instituted on yesterday, and the entire household seem to be very much gratified at the result of prescription. As there are no physicians in this district, a few favorable cases would no doubt be a passport to the confidence of all who require medical aid. But I can’t entertain the thought of entering upon a country practice, however profitable it might prove. And if I locate in this region, it will be with a view to engage in agricultural operations. Should my friends from any cause abandon the thought of coming to Brazil, then I may locate in some city, and enter upon the practice of my profession.

I rode out with Colonel Joaquim to his field this morning, and got his ideas of the indications of good soil from the appearance of the earth, and the nature of the growth upon it. He places most confidence in the presence of the Pon d’Alho when it is very large, as it then indicates depth of soil, which nourishes the roots, and gives vigor to the tree. His lands are chiefly of the terra rocha order, and he agrees with others in considering this as best suited to coffee and sugar-cane, and also to the cultivation of corn. He thinks, however, that the yield of the cotton upon this rich land is not so favorable as upon a soil with some sand intermixed, which agrees with the views of others on this subject. His experience, however, in cultivating cotton, is limited to a small supply for home consumption, as his fixtures for treating the sugar render it better for him to continue in that business, and he could not find sale for cotton nearer than Santos. He uses the plough to prepare his land for planting the sugar-cane, and employs the tops of the sound and vigorous cane from which to grow his crop.

This seems to be the plan universally adopted here, instead of planting entire stalks, as is done in the lower parts of Georgia and Florida; and of course proves an item of great economy in planting a large area of ground in sugar-cane.

I observe, here, that rice is planted in upland, and without any regard to securing a moist place. The yield is fair, and the quality of the article very good, though not equal to Carolina rice. It is grown, to a greater or less extent, upon most of the fazendas I have visited, but simply for family consumption; while upon the coast, I am informed, there are large rice-plantations, that produce it for the market extensively.

In addition to other industrial enterprises, Senor Joaquim has a stock-farm in connection with the residence shown to me yesterday, and there has about twelve hundred head of cattle which are grown for the market, as well as to supply the wants of his own family. He has in that place a large tract of land, of which about ten thousand acres are in woodland, and twenty thousand acres in campo, furnishing ample range for his cattle. This has not been a matter of much concern with him, and the profits are considered as small in comparison to his other business. Yet, he thinks, with proper care, it might become valuable; and by combining the rearing of mules with that of cattle, it would make a very pretty department of industry for some of our Southerners who are fond of stock.

WEDNESDAY, _October 25, 1865_.

My old friend gave me to understand this morning, that we would start in the afternoon to make a visit to one of his daughters, and thence to-morrow to examine some lands which had already been seen superficially in company with Dom Barros.

I had been guessing his meaning in most of the communications made to me, from the few words I could understand, but on this occasion there was no point caught in his first presentation of the matter, and upon asking him to repeat what he said, I managed to infer that it pertained to this trip, which had been contemplated. My very general reply, “Eston as suas ordeus,” (I am at your orders,) indicated my readiness to go whenever it suited him, and on asking him what time we should start, he indicated 2 o’clock P. M.

Accordingly his wife and three daughters joined us on horseback, and we rode eight miles to the house of his son-in-law, Senor Joaquim de Sampaio Peixoto. Here I met a cordial reception, and found plenty of oranges, with good cheer, and also comfortable quarters. I observed at this house a specimen of cattle with shorter and smaller horns than the stock usually seen in the country, and learned they were imported. The native cows do not make good milkers, being very large and coarse, and in common with the males having most enormous horns. They make good beef, and furnish large hides, but are not suited for the domestic purposes of a family. It is stated, indeed, that these immense oxen are not so serviceable as those of the smaller size which are found in some parts of the country.

The ladies mounted and dismounted their horses without assistance at starting and arriving.

THURSDAY, _October 26, 1865_.

All our party, accompanied by Senor Peixoto, set out immediately after breakfast upon horseback. While we stopped a few minutes to examine a new mill-dam on the way, we saw a small deer (viado) swimming down the stream, to make its escape from the dogs which had been pursuing it above.

Instead of taking to the bank, when it reached the dam, it plunged over the fall, and made its way down by running in the current, which was no longer deep enough to require it to swim. The dread of the pursuer kept it from going upon land, where it might be scented and followed.

The old Colonel went with the ladies directly to the residence of Dom Barros, while Senor Peixoto very kindly acted as guide for me in examining the lands. He took me through the most obscure paths, and to all desired parts of the territory included in the tracts of Lacerda, Rodrigues, and Roberto, lying near the Rio Jacaré.

My impressions of the quality of these lands were not materially changed by the inspection, but malarial indications were presented at several points on the Lacerda tract, apart from the fixed fact of the unwholesome atmosphere of the Jacaré river. The quantity of water suited for drinking purposes was found less than previously anticipated, and there is no stream upon either of the places suited for any kind of machinery. The prospect for a location upon these lands is therefore decidedly unfavorable, though the soil would yield good crops.

After dining with Dom Barros, our party rode back to São Lorenço, a distance of sixteen miles, without any apparent inconvenience to the ladies. The physical stamina of these women is equal to any thing.

FRIDAY, _October 27, 1865_.

Having eaten a great variety of meats and fruits, with much exposure to the hot sun, I found myself suffering this morning with some derangement of the bowels, and asked my old friend if he had any brandy. As he had none, he gave me some port wine, but this did not relieve me; and he then gave me a mixture of aqua-ardente (rum) and polvilho (starch of the mandioca) with a little water and sugar. It was very strong with the rum and I took but one-half of the quantity provided. This acted favorably, and is doubtless well adapted to relieve the relaxation of the intestines resulting from improper diet in this climate.

The amount and quality of my food was changed for this day to suit my condition; and it seemed to be a source of much concern to the family that I did not partake of the many good things prepared for me. Indeed, each of the three meals was like a dinner in the variety of the articles, and it required the greatest circumspection to keep from eating too much.

I rode out to the fields again with the old Colonel, and thus had a little more latitude for practising my vocabulary of Portuguese; and after returning my time was devoted industriously to improving my facility in the use of the language. I read aloud some articles in the newspaper which had already been learned with the use of the dictionary, and some difficulties of construction were explained by the Colonel and his son-in-law. I have also resorted to reading in the Portuguese Testament, with the English at hand, so as to assist me in a proper translation, but this does not seem to improve me so much as the reading of the articles in the newspapers with my dictionary. The effort to understand the idiom is a good exercise.

SATURDAY, _October 28, 1865_.

Although I retired late last night, my sleep was disturbed by the deranged state of my system, and farther perhaps by the presence of a vagalume which had been secured under a glass in the room.

This singular lightning-bug is of the size of an ordinary beetle, and has two luminous spots of considerable brilliancy, corresponding to the position of the eyes. It imparts sufficient light to read when held near the printed page; and the time by a watch is told with great facility when it is held near the face.

The brother of Senor Joaquim Lorenço, Senor Francisco Correa de Arruda,[19] spent the night with us, and impressed me very favorably as a man of substantial worth and good sense.

After breakfast I joined the old Colonel in a ride of six miles to the farm of Senor Joaquim Correa da Assumpsão, where the best cotton was seen growing that has been encountered in my tour. It had borne a crop last season amounting to 2453 pounds in the seed per acre, with a prospect of an increased yield this year after cutting off the stalks. The limbs have already sprouted out to some distance, and are spreading in such form as to make a good stalk; and the squares, blooms, and forming bolls indicate a most excellent result. This land has not been ploughed at any time, and would certainly be improved by cultivation with the plough.

While we were at the house of Senor Assumpsão, a messenger came to notify the old Colonel of the arrival of General Wood and party at the villa of Araraquara. We rode into the villa and found them in charge of some of the citizens. All took breakfast with Dom Andre Dias da Aguinar, and as it was nearly 12 o’clock, they evidently relished his abundant supplies after a ride of sixteen miles.

Upon asking General Wood to give me a memoranda of the names of those constituting his party, the following list was written and handed to me:

General William Wallace W. Wood, lawyer and editor, of Mississippi, representing seven States.

Dr. James H. Warne, surgeon and physician, from Tennessee.

Robert L. Brown, planter, Alabama.

_Aids._—W. C. Kernan, of Florida, architect and builder; Dr. J. P. Wesson, Tennessee, dentist and machinist.

_Government Aids._—Major Ernest Street, civil engineer, São Paulo; Henry Snell, interpreter, Campinas.

Three servants and two mule-tenders; four pack-mules.

Mr. Bennaton failed to meet the General’s party on the road, but returned and joined them at the villa this morning.

The entire cavalcade, accompanied by a number of gentlemen from the villa, repaired to São Lorenço, with the proprietor, and enjoyed a most bountiful and well prepared dinner at 4 o’clock P. M.

I had been introduced to General Wood in New Orleans early in the month of July, and understood from him then that he was delegated to come to Brazil as the representative of five hundred families in Mississippi, but as he was delayed in starting, it seemed to me best that my movements should not be retarded for the sake of his company, and I left the city for New York on the 12th of the month. As I sailed prior to his arrival, there was no further communication between us until our meeting here, and it is now found that his commission has been extended so as to include seven States.

One of his party, Mr. Kernan, brought a letter of introduction to me from Dr. R. P. Daniel, of Florida, in which he remarks: “I was myself, in connection with another gentleman from Florida, on my way to Brazil to locate a colony; circumstances have delayed us so much beyond the time we had proposed that, considering the difference in seasons and other matters, we have concluded to return home and wait until next spring before going on. I regret this delay very much; meantime, will you not let me hear from you at your convenience?”

In the multiplicity of my engagements, it may not be in my power to make such a communication to Dr. Daniel as would be desirable, and the publication of this record will give him and others who have desired information most of the facts in my possession connected with this country.

SUNDAY, _October 29, 1865_.

The large number of guests were all comfortably provided with bedding at São Lorenço, and rose this morning refreshed, and responded promptly to the call for breakfast, doing ample justice to the supplies.

It was intimated to me that Senor Francisco desired me to examine and prescribe for his wife, a daughter of our host; and Mr. Bennaton rode over with us and interpreted my questions and her answers, so that a full history of the case was received. It was a stomatitis of two months standing; and finding a Portuguese medical formulary at São Lorenço I was enabled to make out a regular recipe, which was sent to the druggist in the villa.

Shortly after our return a delegation arrived, representing the villa and county of Araraquara, who presented addresses in Portuguese to General Wood and myself. Our replies were, of course, written in English, but were rendered into Portuguese by Mr. Bennaton, and presented to the representatives, who were in attendance.

A translation of the address to me, and my answer, will be given here, in fulfilment of the request contained in their communication:

“DOCTOR GASTON:—It is not only the commission under which you are acting, and by the fulfilment of which Brazil, developing her immense resources, hopes to attain in a short time to that degree of importance which providence has designed, that causes the municipal common council of this village, interpreting faithfully the sentiments of their citizens, to come by the delegation which you have before you, and express the desire that you may find what you seek; and thus, that your worthy fellow-citizens—our brothers of the American Union—may adopt our country for their country. It is likewise the sentiment of sympathy, doctor, which your manners and education have induced on the part of all who have had intercourse with you.

“Remain then, doctor, amongst us, as also your friends, that you may succeed in obtaining lands, which will be suitable for your energetic farmers and mechanics; and rest assured that we will receive you as brothers receive brothers.

“In this form we ask you to make known to them the sentiments which animate us.

(Signed) “MANOEL FRANCISCO OLIVEIRO,
“FRANCISCO CORREA DE ARRUDA,
“JOSÉ ARANHA DA AMARAL.

“ARARAQUARA, _October 29, 1865_.”

“SÃO LORENÇO, _October 29, 1865_.

“GENTLEMEN:—Your address received to-day causes the most grateful emotions, which are enhanced by my separation from those included in your expressions of sympathy: and for them allow me to thank you cordially.

“The regard manifested for myself in this communication, and the personal kindness of your people toward me, cheers my heart, and I feel that I am surrounded by true friends in Araraquara.

“My visit to this country inaugurates a new era, which I trust may conduce to the mutual welfare and enjoyment of our people in after years, and promote likewise the best interests of Brazil.

“Should a suitable location be found for myself and my friends it will be sincerely gratifying to make our home amongst you. I am, very respectfully,

“Your obedient servant,
“J. MCF. GASTON.

“To Messrs. MANOEL FRANCISCO DE OLIVEIRO,
FRANCISCO CORREA DE ARRUDA,
JOSÉ ARANHA DA AMARAL.”

It will be perceived that this ceremony was on Sunday, and though public business is generally suspended on the Sabbath as a holiday, there is nothing which these people may not do on Sunday so far as any religious scruples are concerned. That we must do in Rome as Rome does, is a bad maxim in morals or in politics; and yet there are certain relations to others in life, and to the circumstances by which we are surrounded, that are next to an impossibility to control. These considerations come to mind constantly here, and it is proper that they should enter into the calculations of our people who may think of removing to this country, as it will be found very difficult to act in such a way as to overcome the influences at work on all sides to subvert our views of duty as to the Sabbath. When a number of like faith and practice are associated together in one community, they may establish their own customs and observances; and the importance of locating together will not subserve this end only, but many other useful objects for our future welfare.

MONDAY, _October 30, 1865_.

General Wood and myself, with our party, accompanied by Colonel Joaquim Lorenço and his son-in-law, Senor Francisco, left São Lorenço this morning shortly after five o’clock A. M. Our object being the exploration of the fazendas of Lagrada, Cambuy and Monte Allegre, it was expected that we would be out several days, and provisions were accordingly made by the old Colonel for all our prospective wants during the tour.

We rode first through a portion of the tract of land known as Lagrada, containing thirty thousand acres of land, and belonging to our host, which he proposed to sell if it is desired. It consists of campo land in two-thirds of its extent, and the remaining third of forest land. Our route this morning was through the campo land, in which the soil was red, and having quite a variety of small trees and shrubs. Some of those bore fruits, while others were of a medicinal character. Among the latter were found the trees from which are procured quinine, manna and India rubber, with the plants of the jalap, columbo, ipecac, and several indigenous remedies for syphilitic diseases and the bites of venomous serpents. Indeed these plains contain quite a variety of fruits and medicinal agents, and it is evident that collections of the latter, having much value, might be made by one acquainted with their properties and general aspects.

We proceeded through a portion of the lands of Cambuy, which is said to contain twelve square leagues of territory, which makes one hundred and twenty-two thousand eight hundred and eighty acres of land. The proportion of campo is supposed to be two-thirds to one-third of woodland. Our route lay through a portion of the woodland, which is of the terra rocha order, and about two miles across, to the river Jacaré. Here we found a bridge had been undertaken, but was not completed, nor did the work seem to be progressing.

To the west of this, some half a mile, there empties the Rio da Fazendinha, which conveys sufficient water for motive power, and has a fall of great extent, less than a mile from its mouth. The Rio da Montada and the Rio João Velho are smaller streams, which empty into the Jacaré farther westward.

There is a serra running up and down the Jacaré, and nearly parallel with the general course of the stream, having the crest about two miles distant and sloping gradually on each side; upon that slope next the river chill and fever is said to be generated, while near the crest and upon the opposite slope it is stated to be exempt from all disease.

The lands upon this serra are said to be of the best quality, and if they correspond throughout to the soil seen near the road, there is every reason to anticipate a good result from their cultivation. Until some proper and reliable measurement is made of this fazenda, no idea can be formed of the extent of this body of woodland, yet it is certainly the most valuable territory of the entire tract. If it be two leagues long, and one league wide, as some estimate it to be, it would form a very valuable acquisition for agricultural operations.

In returning from the Jacaré we entered the woods and proceeded to the bank of the Rebeira Fazendinha, where we breakfasted upon passorca and oranges in true traveller’s style. As the components were simple, and yet readily intermixed so as to give them a peculiar fitness for travelling, the process should be understood. Boiled beef is cut up into mincemeat, and then mixed with the farina made of corn so intimately in a mortar that it becomes a coarse powder, and is called passorca. This, then, is eaten with a spoon, and, when combined with an orange, as in our repast, it is really most excellent. In the absence of oranges or a bottle of claret it is well to have water to drink while it is eaten.

In the mean time Senor Francisco shot a macucu and her young bird, which were regarded as a great acquisition to assist in making out our breakfast next morning. This bird of the forest is something larger than a chicken, and is pronounced one of the best for the table; but, in the present case, with young birds of the size of a partridge, the hen is not in the best eating order. A small cobra was also killed.

Our ride, after leaving these woods, was principally through campo lands, in some of which, large, high grass was seen, but, for the most part, the growth of grass was small and scattering. In one place I observed small cane had been growing and was burned off, so that a new crop was sprouting up over the ground. This would doubtless be good grazing while it is tender.

We saw several considerable droves of cattle that were in fair condition, and the calves generally presented a good appearance.

The woodland which was passed in the midst of the campo lands was very well timbered, and looked as if it might have strength of soil adapted to the production of cotton. The sand, however, predominated largely in most of it that was seen; and Senor Joaquim Lorenço told us this was a fair type of these lands located in other parts of the territory. With this information, it was not thought advisable to make a tour of fifteen or twenty miles to see a duplicate of that which we examined; and it was concluded that we would repair to the situ on the place for the night. We passed a fine stream of water some mile of two from the houses, and found a small water-course at the place, adapted to work a monjolo, and perhaps it would serve for a small grist-mill.

Upon arriving at the situ, we found that our camarada and cook had every thing in progress for dinner, and we were soon served with a good, warm, substantial repast, which seemed to be appreciated by all, after the long and tiresome day’s ride, through campos, in the sun.

After dining, Colonel Joaquim Lorenço, at our request, sketched upon the ground the outline of this extensive collection of lands, and its relations to other adjoining places, giving a rough map of all the tracts of land convenient to the villa of Araraquara which it was supposed would be sold. Upon this, Mr. Street based a plan and sketched the outlines for a map, which he proposed to fill out in examining the surrounding country, and it is likely to be very useful.

TUESDAY, _October 31, 1865_.

Getting an extra early breakfast, we set out this morning, and rode through a wide extent of rather indifferent land, diversified by hill and dale, as well as broad-extended plains. There were some portions of woodland, having a light soil, in which the sandy element prevailed to an extent that must render it of small value. But there were other portions of woodland, with a reddish-colored soil, which were evidently of a better quality. Yet none had the dark purple hue which characterizes the terra rocha soil, and which is regarded the best quality of land in this country.

In passing through the fazenda of Monte Allegre, immense undulating plains of red soil were traversed; and different views were entertained as to the practicability of cultivating these lands successfully with the plough. There is in many places almost no vegetation, and the dry, hard, red earth looks as if it scarcely had the requisite elements for the germination and sustentation of grass or plants of any kind. This may depend in part upon the long-protracted drought which has existed in all this region of country; yet it is an inexplicable circumstance that no planter attempts to raise a crop upon any portion of these campos, and their cultivation would certainly be attended with less labor than clearing up matto lands. An experiment with the plough should, however, be made, with a view to test their productiveness.

When we reached the situ of Senor José Pinto, in charge of this fazenda, every thing was found ready for our comfort, as he had been notified of our coming by Senor Joaquim Lorenço. Being in advance, with some others who did not speak Portuguese, it devolved upon me to use my small stock in communicating with the proprietor, and I am encouraged to find that my words are understood, while I comprehend much that is said by others in this tongue.

Dinner was served in accordance with the most approved style of the country, the courses being of great variety, and the plates being frequently changed. We were agreeably surprised with the excellent taste displayed in connection with the table, and it was no less a matter of admiration to find beds arranged for all our large party with the greatest elegance. The pillow-cases were decorated with fine lace, and some of the spreads were beautifully embroidered. It is an odd fancy with many families to have towels of very fine material trimmed with very broad lace, and this was exhibited here in the greatest profusion upon the towels for our use.

There is a water-course on each side of the houses, which, uniting below, form a considerable stream. This large creek has a fall upon it, which affords a very favorable site for machinery, and indeed each of the smaller streams is also adapted to supply good water-power, while one of them already has a cotton-gin and grist-mill in operation, but both on a small scale.

In an enclosure near the mill-house there are two large trees, called Ximbo, which we were told had been planted there some years ago; and this would seem to indicate that the land will grow other trees better than those usually seen in campos. These trees present a luxuriant, thriving aspect, and afford a very fine shade for stock, while they would be highly decorative and useful in the immediate vicinity of the dwelling. It is remarked, however, that shade trees are seldom seen here about a house, and the climate being very warm during most of the year, the benefit of the trees ought to be apparent to all.

Orange trees are growing in the garden attached to this house, and though not bearing at present, they are well developed and will doubtless yield abundantly in proper season. The oranges in all this region are said to be very fine, and in some places the trees are found still with some fruit, which is of the very best quality. It has been a matter of consideration with me, whether the growing of the orange for the purpose of making wine and brandy might not become profitable. That a good article of each can be produced has already been satisfactorily proved, and there is a modification of the wine, known by the name of Coracão, which is very much prized. This name implies that it is adapted to cheer the heart, and it is considered a great delicacy. I have tasted a specimen of the ordinary wine of the orange, and thought it corresponded very much to the Sherry wine, which is certainly one of the best wines that is imported to the United States.

A dog-kennel with seventeen deer-hounds was seen here, and these animals have sharp ears like the wolf, with greater activity and fleetness than our hounds.

WEDNESDAY, _November 1, 1865_.

At five o’clock this morning three of the party and myself joined the proprietor in making a tour of observation in the plantation and neighboring woodlands of Monte Allegre. The soil was not of a superior quality, yet it would doubtless produce moderately well. Cotton had been planted last year, and seemed to have made an average stalk, while that more recently planted was growing quite as well as the want of cultivation would warrant. The large proportion of unproductive land upon this fazenda, and the medium quality of most of the woodland, do not present encouraging features for a settlement upon it. Yet the fine location, and the water facilities, have evidently inspired General Wood with the idea that it would afford a favorable location for a city of newcomers. It is thought, moreover, that in the event of the extension of a railroad to this region, it will pass in the immediate vicinity of this place. That the location is healthy is shown by the residence of a large family and quite a gang of negroes for many years at this site, with very slight sickness of any kind. But there are wanting, in my view, the most essential requisites for building a city, or for establishing a large number of our people, in the deficient basis for agricultural pursuits and the absence of means of transportation, while there is a very scanty supply of timber at any point convenient for use. We need many things in commencing a settlement for which we must depend upon the resources of the surrounding country, or upon transportation from other parts; and in case these supplies are not likely to be found near at hand, the means of ready communication with some furnishing point becomes essential.

We left Monte Allegre about 9 o’clock A. M., and came out through a different portion of the territory from that previously seen, but found no improvement in the nature of the soil. At one point we were informed that a field of coffee (cafézar) was near the road, but being of recent planting, it would have afforded very little idea of the fitness of the soil to its growth, and hence we did not visit it. The woodlands passed through to-day belonged to that class known as terra branca, having a large proportion of sand mixed with the soil, and might perhaps be appropriate for the cultivation of cotton for a few years.

After leaving the lands of Monte Allegre, I proceeded with Senor Joaquim Lorenço, and Mr. Snell as interpreter, to examine some of the woodland belonging to the tract known as Lageado. The growth upon it is of good size, and much of it very suitable for building purposes. There is a stream of water suited for domestic purposes running lengthwise throughout the body of woods, and there is a large water-course at one extremity, which is available for machinery. This land is of a gray aspect, having a considerable proportion of sand; yet Senor Joaquim thinks it will grow every thing to advantage excepting coffee and sugar-cane. He tells me also that there is a portion of red land (terra vermilho) which would grow those articles in common with others.

THURSDAY, _November 2, 1865_.

Accompanied by Senor Joaquim Lorenço, we moved at daylight from his fazenda en route for Brotas and Jahu, and without any incident of special moment, we stopped about noon at the fazenda of Senor Jacinto Antonio Fagandes, (deceased.) We were supplied with water, and also with milk and water mixed, which spoiled both these articles, and brought up associations that ought not to arise in connection with the hospitality of our friends. We were furnished with coffee also after waiting until our patience was exhausted, but it was thankfully received and enjoyed.

Here we saw the skin of an ant-eater, (Tamandoa Bandoera,) which is of a gray color, with the hair upon the back very harsh and long, and the tail of immense size, spreading out like a fan at the sides. This animal has powerful arms and front paws, with which it tears up the earth in search of the nests of the ant; and it is said to be very ferocious when encountered by other animals. An instance has been communicated, in which an ant-eater and a tiger became engaged, with the result of killing the former, yet the claws had been so imbedded in the flesh of the tiger that it remained clinging to it, until the sickening and emaciation of the tiger made it an easy prey to the hunter, when the dried body of the ant-eater was found still attached by its claws to the body of the tiger.

This is given as reported to me by a person who claimed to have a personal knowledge of the fact, and illustrates the tenacious grasp of this animal.

After leaving the dwelling, and its incumbent of milk and water memory, we passed through a portion of the land of this fazenda, which contains about eighteen thousand acres, and is now for sale. There is a branch or small creek with very clear water, which was crossed after entering one of the fields. The soil here was evidently well suited to the growth of corn, as there were large heaps lying in the husk on each side of the road, preparatory to being hauled and put into the crib or paijol. There were also a number of young coffee trees growing in this field, but we had no information as to their age, and it is sufficient to remark that they looked vigorous and healthy, with a good prospect for the future.

The party to whose estate this place belongs owned three large fazendas; and there is one located near Lemeira, which is said to be a valuable coffee plantation, giving a large annual yield.

The place passed this morning is called Carrentes, and is about two miles from the situ of Major Gaveão.

After leaving these lands, we passed through a most dreary sand-bed of nearly two leagues in extent, and crossing the Jacaré river at a water-fall, (Cachoeira,) we stopped for the night at the residence of Senor José Rodrigues Simães.

This is a very superior site for machinery, and yet the main stream is not made available, while a small stream entering into it is turned into a race through a large hollow log, and moves quite a large sugar-mill and a monjolo.

A trough was measured here with dimensions of forty by forty-five inches. We were supplied with oranges and limes in great abundance and of the finest quality. In the course of the evening, I had stepped into the back part of the house to ask a servant to bring me a basin of water; and shortly afterwards the proprietor of the house, in company with my old friend, Senor Joaquim, came to me with a candle in his hand and said something about sickness, which I supposed referred to myself. I told him in Portuguese, of course, as neither of them understood any thing else, that nothing ailed me, and that the water asked for was simply to wash my hands and face.

They looked at each other, and wearing quite an embarrassed aspect, repeated the remark as to the sickness, which, with my imperfect knowledge of the language, was not properly understood, but was construed to mean, that I had better go to a room and lie down. Again I remonstrated, when the old Colonel gave me to understand that it was not on my account, but for the relief of another, that they desired me to go to the room. This placed the matter upon quite a different basis, and I proceeded to examine a man who had been seriously wounded on the head by the blow of a cudgel, while engaged in an affray. He was then laboring under oppression of the brain to some extent, and learning that his bowels were torpid, I administered a dose of calomel, with directions to follow it with oil, and to keep cloths wet with cold water constantly to his head, which should be placed near a window.

I went out of the room, hoping but little for any benefit from the treatment, and yet he was not in a state to bear blood-letting. Our interpreter being absent from the house caused the awkward interview as reported.

FRIDAY, _November 3, 1865_.

We were all roused before daylight, to make ready for the road, and upon examining my patient I was gratified to find that his medicine had been productive of good results, with encouragement to hope for recovery.

Getting a cup of coffee before starting, we took breakfast at the house of Senor José Venancio Carneiro, and reached Brotas at twelve o’clock. We found the population alive to the importance of the visit, and an address of welcome was made to General W. W. W. Wood by Dom Francisco Ernesto Malheiros, to which the General responded. Mr. Bennaton repeated the remarks of the former at the close of his address, making &c., &c., &c., cover a large gap in memory. But he interpreted the words of the General as they were delivered, giving each paragraph separately, as a pause was made for that purpose. This part of the performance was executed to the entire satisfaction of all concerned.

I delivered a letter to the above-named gentleman, and also one to Senor Francisco de Campos of the place, each of whom tendered any assistance that might be useful to me or my friends.

It was gratifying to find here among those who rode out to meet us my friend Rev. A. L. Blackford; and upon leaving, he rode out several miles with me, as an act of personal kindness and courtesy, which was duly appreciated.

We dined in the villa of Brotas, at a house owned by the same gentleman at whose residence we breakfasted, but he was not present on either occasion, being at some distance on business in the country. Being notified by Senor Joaquim, the family arranged every thing.

When our party were in readiness to start out of town in the afternoon, there was quite a large concourse of gentlemen on horseback presented themselves to accompany us on our way; and the street was thronged on the side-walks and in the windows with women and others, who seemed to look upon our movement as something remarkable for this quiet place.

General Wood had received an invitation before reaching the town, through a special messenger, to proceed to the house of Senor Antonio Joaquim Camargo and spend the night. It was also stated that several letters had been received by this gentleman from persons in São Paulo, suggesting that he should entertain this party; and hence the General set aside a previous arrangement of the old Colonel, that we would go to the house of his son-in-law, and went with Senor Camargo, to enjoy his hospitality.

Upon the special invitation of my old friend, I accompanied him to the house of his son-in-law, Senor Domingos José Carneiro, and found that all requisite preparations had been made for entertaining the entire company. Dinner had been in progress, and all the bedding was in readiness to make all comfortable for the night.

This residence is upon the elevated plateau of the serra, and we had a very steep ascent to make in reaching the crest, but once gained, the view of the country for miles up and down the valley, or rather the lower strata of land, was really magnificent. The soil here is excellent, and all the staples are growing well. Coffee seems to flourish particularly well, though not in terra rocha.

SATURDAY, _November 4, 1865_.

My old friend, the Colonel, rose at half-past three o’clock this morning, and directed our horses to be fed and coffee to be prepared for us, preliminary to early starting.

I was forcibly reminded last night of the difference between the lady of the house and our ladies, by her remaining in the room while we were preparing to retire to bed. Though tired and sleepy, I waited some time after taking off my coat and vest, before she took the hint to leave, and after I got in bed, she came back to talk to her father, who then had off his wearing apparel, and was sitting on the side of the bed. This is mentioned simply to illustrate the want of sensitiveness on the part of women in the ordinary respectable class of society in this country.

Senor Joaquim Lorenço and I left about half-past four o’clock, with a negro to put us on the right road after getting out of the plantation. Upon reaching the fazenda of Senor Camargo, we learned that the General and his party had left some half hour previous. The road travelled by them was marked by the tracks of their animals, and, besides, a green bough of a tree had been placed in the roads that were not to be taken, and we consequently followed them without difficulty. Most persons place a bough on the road to be taken; but, knowing that Mr. Bennaton pursued the other course, I understood this thing, which was likely to puzzle the old Colonel, when he perceived the bush on one road and the tracks leading another route.

Coming up with the pack-train, we found that a camarada was ascending a tree upon which grew a large crop of very fine jaboticabas, and availed ourselves of as many as we could eat. We took, moreover, quite a supply of this delicious fruit in a handkerchief, thinking it would be very acceptable to our friends ahead; but it so turned out that I carried the rather weighty package eight miles before overtaking the party. They had halted at about eleven o’clock A. M., for breakfast, at the fazenda of Senor Joaquim Oliveiro Mattozenia; but, as there was no notice of their coming, it was likely to be some time before any thing to eat could be in readiness. It was, therefore, most acceptable to all, that the Colonel had brought an assortment of substantials, with the expectation of eating on the roadside; and they promptly availed themselves of the chickens, pork, rice, farina, &c., which was spread out before them.

Notwithstanding the flourish-of-trumpets with which Senor Antonio Joaquim Camargo had announced his readiness to accommodate General Wood and party, they found quite a deficiency of the comforts which had been met elsewhere; and, going to bed on a very light repast, they were now as hungry as half-starved wolves. In a short time after this cold lunch was concluded, it was announced that a hot breakfast was ready in the dining-room, and we found the table laden with good things, of which none could partake very largely after the previous supply; yet all went through the form of eating, so as not to give offence to the lady of the house, who, in the absence of her husband, had manifested so much cheerfulness in preparing this breakfast. Senor Camargo had accompanied the party thus far, but declined to partake of the lunch, and must have felt chagrined to note the greater providence exhibited in this matter than had been observed by him in starting them out without breakfast.

There had been a considerable hubbub among our party the previous day, in reference to departing from the prearranged plan of Senor Joaquim Lorenço, that all should go to the house of his son-in-law, Senor Domingos; and in going to the fazenda of Senor Antonio Joaquim Camargo the highest expectations were indulged as to the immense preparations that had been made for a grand reception and sumptuous entertainment. When it turned out so differently from what was anticipated, all vowed that, henceforth, the party would stick to the old Colonel, and abide by whatever he might plan for them in future movements.

Our course to-day lay through fair lands for the greater portion of the route, and the place at which we stopped yields cane of the finest quality, having seen four huge oxcart loads moving from the fields to the sugar-house. This establishment has a large overshot water-wheel, and three iron cylinders for the expressing of the juice of the cane. The appliances for treating the sugar were few in number, and not apparently well adapted to the object; yet the specimen of sugar at breakfast was very fine, and was of domestic manufacture.

As stated above, the proprietor, Senor Joaquim Oliveiro Mattozenia, was not at home; but we met him on the way, after leaving his house, and he returned with us to the Freguezia de Jahu. He took us there to a house in which his business is done, and sent out for ale to supply the whole thirsty multitude, while coffee was prepared for those of us who preferred to take it. He then went with us to the fazenda of Dom José Correa Leite de Moraes, about two miles from the village, where we were expected by prior arrangement.

Our host is a practising physician and has his drugs in the reception room, upon shelves occupying each side of an angle, and making evidently a good assortment of medicines, adapted to almost every use in the treatment of diseases. Although the labels were mostly in Portuguese, I readily understood them from the similarity to the technicals in Latin. Since finding the embarrassment of prescribing for those who do not understand a Latin formula, it has impressed me forcibly that this technical language that is recognized by most nations ought to be adopted by all, so as to simplify the filling of prescriptions by physicians of different countries wherever their services may be in requisition over the whole world.

The soil in this immediate vicinity is a very dark purple or brown color, and is generally called here black land, (terra preta or terra masape.) It is very rich in those elements requisite for production, and yields all kinds of crops with but little labor. The consistence is such that, when wet, it adheres with great tenacity to the shoes, and hence the term “masape.” It corresponds in many respects to the rich bottom lands lying upon the Mississippi river, and is not inferior to the best soil of that region for sugar-cane, cotton, or corn. As yet the culture of coffee has not been introduced for a length of time to test its qualities for that crop, but it is confidently expected to yield well.