Chapter XIV: Part 14

This island upon which the villa is located is at the outlet of the long, narrow body of water, which we traversed in coming from Ignape. Though the mouth of the Ribeira leads out to the ocean, opposite to the city of Ignape the bar is so shallow as to preclude the passage of vessels in that direction, so that they are required to come through this Mare Pequeno, a distance of forty-five miles, for an outlet; and, if going towards Rio de Janeiro, must return along the coast the same distance, to reach the point from which they might proceed directly if the mouth of the river could be made navigable.

In view of this circuitous navigation, it is very desirable that a good wagon-road should be constructed from Xiririca across the country to the port of Cananea near the main land. I am informed by Senor Street and Captain Buhlaw that the route is very favorable even for a railroad; while the port is capable of admitting, with good protection, vessels of the largest size. The largest extent of public lands lies south of this proposed road, and products might be conveyed along it either to Xiririca or to the port of Cananea, as might be most convenient.

The epidemic bloody flux, which visited the city of Ignape, is now prevailing in Cananea, and has been attended with great fatality, more especially among children. In one family as many as eight persons have died in one month, and a number of deaths have occurred in other families. But the population have now to a large extent left the villa and gone into the country, where they are entirely exempt from the disease. The absence of a means of proper treatment has doubtless added very much to the fatal results, as there was no medical man residing in either of these places, and though a doctor is paid now by the province, and medicines furnished to him for the treatment of the sick at Cananea, there is but little confidence reposed in his skill or his integrity and faithfulness.

Regarding this epidemic as a transient disease, confined to these populated localities, it does not augur any thing unfavorable to the healthfulness of the country.

FRIDAY, _January 26, 1866_.

Having resumed my voyage upon the Dom Affonso, Senor Street and myself were reduced to the necessity of sleeping upon the table in the small cabin, with all the apertures closed on account of a fall of rain. In addition to the crowded condition of the berths by whites, and others slightly tinged, there were several negro women of the real ebony stamp sleeping upon the floor, and with the confined air, charged with emanations from various accumulations during the night, our situation was little short of the Black Hole of Calcutta. I will say, however, for the general management aboard of the small and antiquated steamboat, that it was very satisfactory; and though the table does not compare with that of the Santa Maria, every thing is well prepared and clean. The large number of persons aboard indicates that a better boat with larger accommodations is needed upon this line, which makes a trip monthly, touching at the points upon the coast as far south as Santa Catharina.

Upon entering Santos we found the English steamer Galileo loading for Rio de Janeiro; and as the passage is likely to be more expeditious as well as more comfortable, Senor Street and myself with two or three other passengers have arranged to go in this vessel to-morrow morning. She is consigned to Mr. W. T. Wright.

Since my former visit, Mr. and Mrs. Wright have been favored with a daughter, which is now a month old; and she is again doing the duties of her household with her customary grace and kindness.

I am indebted to my friend, Mr. Wright, for collecting the following valuable data pertaining to this city and province, as well as the whole empire of Brazil.

_Mean temperature of city of Santos, by R. J. de Balbi, Inspector of
Port; transferred from Centigrade to Fahrenheit scale._

Month. 1863 1864 1865 January 83.62 80.67 No record February 82.40 78.67 „ March 78.83 80.38 „ April 77.03 74.28 „ May 69.92 72.59 „ June 68.11 68.89 „ July 67.17 67.98 „ August 66.32 66.23 „ September 68.39 No record „ October 71.65 „ „ November 74.78 „ 75.49 December 78.22 „ 78.45

The only practical distinction here is, into cooler and warmer season, but the classification is made and the months will be thus arranged into seasons:

Summer.—December, January, and February.

Autumn.—March, April, and May.

Winter.—June, July, and August.

Spring.—September, October, and November.

The highest temperature is about 90°, and the lowest is about 60° Fahrenheit.

The summer months constitute the rainy season, and the winter months the driest part of the year in most of the territory of Brazil.

The government of Brazil consists of the Emperor and his Council, the Senate, and House of Deputies, acting under the constitution.

The cabinet is formed as that of Great Britain; one man being commissioned by the Emperor, selects his portfolio and colleagues, he becoming president or premier of the council. The members are ministers of the empire, of foreign affairs, of finance, of war, of the navy, of justice; and under one head, of commerce, agriculture, with public works; making seven departments.

Senators are balloted for by electors, the three highest being forwarded to the Emperor, who selects one to fill the office, which is held for life. It is not requisite that he shall be a resident of the province for which he is chosen. Deputies are chosen every four years by electors. The Emperor can dissolve any congress and call for a new election as in Great Britain.

There is a judge for each district, and two terms of court each year. In trial by jury, the decision is by plurality, and grade of punishment according to majority.

Courts of appeal at Bahia, Maranhão, and other places, while there is a supreme court for higher offences. There is no grand jury, but process formed by delegado or sub-delegado of police, (corresponding to sheriff and deputy,) and if there is reason found for trial, indictment is sent to the municipal judge, (corresponding to magistrate,) and if approved he sends it to the district judge; and when approved by him, the case is ordered for trial before the jury. Magistrates elected by the people.

In addition to delegado and sub-delegado appointed by the President of the province for each district, there is a chief of police for each province appointed by the Emperor. Each province has its own legislature, chosen by the people. The President has veto power, which may be set aside by a two-thirds vote.

One archbishop residing at Bahia is the chief see, and there is also a bishop for each province, and a vicar in each district.

One mint at Rio de Janeiro, and the Bank of Brazil, with sundry others, is also located there; while there are branch banks in various provinces for issue, and private banks for deposit and discount.

Schools and colleges are numerous. A law academy in São Paulo, and also in Bahia. A medical college in Rio de Janeiro.

_January 27, 1866._

Senor Street and myself came aboard of the fine steamship Galileo at 10 o’clock A. M., but the vessel was detained a considerable time by a hawser becoming entangled in her screw.

A man was brought from the city by her agent, Mr. W. T. Wright, who dived down under the wheel, and remaining over a minute under the water, succeeded in disentangling the cable.

This vessel is the second English steamer that has recently taken loading from this port, under an arrangement effected by Mr. Wright for the permission of coastwise freight by foreign bottoms, in consideration of the large proportion of Brazilian vessels now chartered by the government in connection with the belligerent operations against Paraguay. The troops of Lopez have now been withdrawn from Brazilian territory, and yet hold a defiant attitude upon the soil of Paraguay. It is now the purpose of the Emperor to conquer a peace with these troublesome neighbors, and it is generally thought that hostilities will soon be successfully ended.

The Galileo has taken aboard here nineteen hundred and fifty-two (1952) bales of cotton of the small size, weighing one hundred and twelve (112) pounds, some of which stop at Rio de Janeiro, while another portion is for shipment to Liverpool. She brought from Montevideo a partial cargo, consisting of two hundred sheep, and all the appurtenances of the slaughtering of cattle, hides, horns, and bones, amounting to some five hundred tons.

The sheep and a portion of the cargo are shipped for Rio, while the remainder goes to England.

This vessel has excellent passenger accommodations, and the table is served differently from that of the Brazilian steamers, the waiters supplying promptly all the wants of the guests in the former, while in the latter passengers are expected to look after their own wants during the meals. In the fare of Brazilian steamers, table wine is included, while on the English vessel all wines, beer, or liquors are a separate item of charge, and there is a margin of two (2.00) dollars difference in the rates between the Santa Maria and the Galileo, the passage on the former being eighteen (18.00) dollars, while that of the latter is sixteen (16.00) dollars.

We find on board Captain Markam, the master of the unfortunate Herschel, that was wrecked below a short time since. His vessel first struck upon a rock not indicated in the charts, and was so badly damaged that all preparatory steps were taken for the safety of the passengers and crew in the boats. But he still had a hope of getting her into the port of Marlausdo, and placing her under the direction of a pilot she was run upon a rock a second time and was lost, all on board being saved.

An English gentleman named Stickney, who was aboard of the Herschel, is now a passenger with us, and has been examining some of the territory of Brazil, with reference to farming and sheep-raising. He is much pleased with some of the country, but has not yet made any selection. I infer from his own statements, that he has been conducting quite an extensive business in this department in England, and it would be very desirable to see some of those experienced farmers entering into that neat and systematic style of business in this country.

SUNDAY, _January 28, 1866_.

The harbor of Rio de Janeiro was entered to-day at 1 o’clock P. M. Being hailed at the fort and boarded by three different officials of the Brazilian government, our vessel proceeded to her anchorage, and I reached the wharf at 3 o’clock P. M. My quarters are taken again at the Exchange Hotel, and having a small bed-room, with an open hall in front that is well ventilated, I am likely to have a quiet time for preparing my report to the Minister of Agriculture pertaining to my tour of observation.

Making a hurried inquiry at the office and other places for letters, none were found, and I proceeded in a boat to a bark that had recently arrived from New York, thinking it might bring some tidings of my family or friends. I was not permitted by the custom-house officers to go aboard, as the vessel had not yet been passed with her cargo; but upon speaking with the Captain from the row-boat, he informed me that any letters brought had gone to the post-office, under the existing regulations, two days ago. I knew, therefore, that nothing had come for me.

MONDAY, _January 29, 1866_.

The entire forenoon was occupied with my report for the minister, and it was only suspended when the announcement was made that the United States packet Havana had arrived in the harbor. Being informed that no one was permitted to go aboard while she was still in charge of the custom-house officers, I awaited the arrival of passengers and learned that there were no people aboard from the Southern States, so that there was no prospect of hearing through anyone from my friends.

Mr. G. N. Davis kindly accompanied me to the post-office, and personally examined the letters received by the packet, but nothing was found for me. This inscrutable interruption of all communication with my friends in the South leaves no other alternative than to return and confer with them in person respecting my impressions of the territory, climate, productions and government of Brazil.

Senor E. D. Street has arranged for a meeting with the Minister of Agriculture at 11 o’clock A. M. to-morrow.

TUESDAY, _January 30, 1866_.

The abstract of my observations upon the soil and industrial resources of the country, examined during the past four months, was embodied in a report of thirty-two pages of large letter paper, and presented to his Excellency, Conselheiro Paulo Sonsa, Minister of Agriculture, Commerce, &c., to-day. My interview was very brief, as he had an appointment elsewhere, which prevented him from giving audience to numerous persons in attendance, and he appointed day after to-morrow for another meeting. In the mean time he can examine my paper and be prepared to make a response to the propositions therein submitted.

On my return I called at the office of Dom Galvão, where he was found with his secretary, Mr. Mello. These gentlemen renewed their offers of assistance in any way they could serve my objects. But no satisfactory information has been received in regard to the terms upon which negroes may be hired from the province of Minas, and I will direct my efforts to procuring another class of laborers.

I am informed by Mr. William Scully, the editor of the _Anglo-Brazilian Times_, that he has had frequent applications from parties in England, Scotland, and Ireland, in regard to securing employment for laborers from those countries; and that so soon as we can give him any assurance of the number that will be required for business operations among our people who propose to settle in Brazil, he can certainly secure them for the service.

Being constantly occupied during the entire morning, I did not have an opportunity to get my breakfast, and, when it was nearly one o’clock, I went into the Café Americano for a lunch that could be most promptly served. Cold ham, shrimps and salad, with bread and butter, stayed my stomach; and yet it proved to be a very costly repast, as a fine silk umbrella was left in the establishment which could not be found upon returning to look for it some two hours afterwards.

In compliance with previous invitation, I dined to-day with Mr. Malone and his family, who are keeping house in the precinct of São Domingos. Mr. J. A. Roussel, from Louisiana, went over with me on the ferry-boat, and I met at the house Dr. D. Dansereau, also from Louisiana, and Mr. P. B. Hockaday, an old gentleman from Missouri, all of whom are here to select locations for their future residence. The latter two are accommodated with boarding by Mr. and Mrs. Malone, and seem to be pleasantly situated. This lady looks rather delicate, and yet she is doing the cooking and housework for the family with her own hands, and says that she is too busy to think of troubles or cares, feeling quite cheerful and contented with her situation. They have two very interesting little daughters, one about nine years old, and the other about seven. Their health has improved since coming here, and they are now quite hearty and sprightly. This family reached Brazil some six months ago, and found many trials at the outset from the want of associations with any of their own people, and the failure to find any field of business in which they could be employed to advantage. But now they are in good spirits, and expect ere long to identify themselves with others who are expected to arrive from the Southern States, and form a settlement in some part of the country. In their present sphere of duty, they render essential service to those stopping in Rio.

When I sat down with Southern friends, at the table of a Southern family, and partook of the food prepared by the hands of a Southern lady in a foreign land, the change which has come over our people was fully realized; yet this presented a type of the independence to which every Southern heart aspired, and which can only be enjoyed now by a separation from those who hold us in subjection.

On returning upon the ferry-boat, I was introduced to Mr. Franklin and Colonel Parsons, of Texas, who are here for the purpose of locating in the country. The latter gentleman is just recovering from a slight attack of varioloid, contracted from some Brazilian soldiers on board of the vessel coming from Bahia to Rio. The former has also been indisposed for a few days. But both are again ready for business, and they are now making arrangements to open a mercantile house in this city for furnishing machinery and agricultural implements. They expect to be provided with every thing that is likely to be wanted in opening plantations; yet it will be desirable for planters to bring with them all they may need.

The family of Mr. Gunter, from Alabama, with that of his son-in-law, are located in Botafogo, and await his return from an exploration of the country to determine upon a location. They have been very kindly assisted and looked after by that noble-souled friend of Southerners, Mr. Carlos Nathan. His acts of kindness will relieve the embarrassments of many who have received favors at his hands, and among that number I shall always feel thankful for the gentlemanly courtesy and substantial aid which he has extended to me.

With a view to promote in a more enlarged sphere the emigration of our people, a proposition has been submitted to the Brazilian government by Mr. Nathan, in which arrangements will be made by him for the transportation of persons from the Southern States to Brazil, with the privilege to the emigrants of paying the passage-money in three instalments, at the end of the third, fourth, and fifth years, and without interest. He assumes the responsibility of guaranteeing to the government the payment of these passage bills which it is to receive, giving him bonds for the amount, with the allowance of a certain amount for each emigrant that is thus brought from the United States to Brazil.

No action has been taken as yet upon this practical business proposition, which would systematize the transportation across the ocean, and enable many to accomplish the removal to Brazil who otherwise will not be able to avail themselves of transportation.

A highly important meeting of citizens was held to-day at the hall of the Merchants’ Exchange, at which the Minister of Agriculture and other important officials co-operated with many of the most influential men of the city, for the consideration of measures most likely to promote emigration to Brazil.

Two meetings have been held prior to this, and propositions were submitted by Senor Dom Furquim d’Almeida, which have in view the recognition of all the civil and religious privileges which can be desired by our people in coming into this empire. This gentleman has great worth of character, and exercises much control in the affairs of the country, so that his prominent advocacy of these reforms has secured the concurrence of a large number of important persons, and through this influence it is expected that action of the government will be secured.

An organization has been formed to-day with the object of facilitating all the different steps towards settlement in this country; and with a view to reach more adequately those for whose benefit it is designed, foreigners are to be associated with Brazilians in a committee for carrying out the plans of this society.

Few matters are initiated here by a public assemblage of the people, such as that now witnessed in regard to emigration, and it indicates a widespread and abiding conviction of the importance that is attached to the settlement of the Southern planters in the territory of Brazil.

The official authorities have manifested great readiness to receive favorably all of our people who have sought any position in connection with the government; and they have afforded all the facilities practicable for aiding those who desired to examine the resources of the country, while they hold out the encouragement of prospective assistance to such as may need aid in emigrating to this empire with their families.

The people everywhere exhibit likewise the most cordial disposition to favor this movement.

WEDNESDAY, _January 31, 1866_.

A brief summary of the report submitted to the Minister of Agriculture will give a general view of the field of observation.

For the purposes of description, the following division of soil is recognized: Volcanic earth, (terra rocha,) red land, (terra vermilha,) dark land, (terra preta,) and light land, (terra branca.)

A further distinction results from the predominance of clay, sand, shell, and decomposed vegetable matter. These are combined in various proportions with other elements, in different specimens of soil examined.

The territory is divided into original forest, (matto virgem,) secondary forest, (capoeira,) and open plain, (campo.)

The soil of the forest is superior to that of the plain, and yet has many grades.

Fruits and medicinal plants found to a large extent in some of the open plains.

None of the native trees of the United States are found growing in the forests examined.

The province of São Paulo may be divided into four different sections, as follows:

1st. Coast land, including the land lying between the sea and the neighboring serra adjacent to Santos, Conceicão, Ignape and Cananea.

In this the soil has rotten-shell combined with sand to a large extent. Rice is the chief product of this region.

2d. Table land, including the territory lying south of the Serra Nigro, and lying adjacent to Campinas, Lemeira, Rio Clara, Araraquara, Brotas, Jahu, and Botacatu.

The best purple soil (terra rocha) is here in close proximity to the poorest light sandy plains, and, while the latter are unproductive, the former are considered the most favorable for coffee and all the standard staples of the country.

3d. Mixed land, including the territory lying between the former and the Serra da Cubitão, and lying adjacent to Jundiahi, São Paulo, Itu, Porto Feliz, Sorocaba, Itapetininga, and Paranapanema.

Extensive grass plains are intermixed with forests of light land, and occasionally dark soil.

The former very suitable for grazing stock, and the latter are giving very favorable results in the culture of cotton and corn.

4th. River land, including the territory lying upon the upper waters of the Ribeira de Ignape, and its tributaries from each side, and being adjacent to Inquia, Iporanga and Xiririca.

Forest land prevails here exclusively, having for the most part a dark soil with a yellow clay base. Corn, rice and sugar-cane have been the principal products, yet this region is well adapted to the growth of tobacco, cotton and coffee.

In all of these sections, the different tropical fruits, oranges, bananas, pine-apples, &c., grow to great advantage.

The hoe is alone used in the culture of the land, and only three plows were seen in the entire province. The introduction of the plow is likely to improve the agricultural operations, and may serve to eradicate that great pest of the planter, the ant. It is especially needed in the preparation of the soil for cotton, and the increasing importance of that crop is apparent.

Pack-mules are the reliance for transportation of product to market, from section second and third, for the present. But a railroad line is expected to be in operation soon, which will be available for a portion of each of these sections. It runs from Santos to Jundiahi, eighty-five miles.

Communication with a market, by water, is convenient for sections first and fourth. The former affords no inducement for any large settlement, while the latter presents a wide extent of territory, lying between the Ribeira de Ignape and Cananea, and extending towards Parana. If it should meet the views of our people to concentrate upon this territory, a large wagon-road is desirable to connect Xiririca and the port of Cananea, so as to afford them access to either of these ports.

The route indicated is pronounced by an engineer to be very favorable for the location of a good road, and if it is authorized, it will constitute an important item in the advantages of this section, for the settlement of emigrants from the southern portion of the United States of America.

THURSDAY, _February 1, 1866_.

In an interview with his Excellency Conselheiro Paulo Sonsa, Minister of Agriculture, &c., I have received his assurance that a wagon-road should be opened from the port of Cananea to Xiririca; and that the requisite order would be issued forthwith for setting apart the funds for this work. He has likewise given me a promise that an amount of public land, sufficient for the accommodation of my friends, would be reserved in a specified locality, until I should communicate to him some definite intimation as to their decision. I am farther informed that authority will be given me to hire a vessel at the expense of the Brazilian government, for the use of the needy, provided two other vessels are loaded by emigrants on their own account; and that the vessels would be permitted to land their passengers and cargoes free of duty, at Cananea or Ignape, if this is desired.

With this understanding, I feel that my mission in Brazil has terminated satisfactorily, and I am now ready to submit the result for the consideration of those who await this report.

The physical aspects of Brazil present great encouragement to those desiring to engage in agricultural operations.

The great variety and superior quality of the products present advantages not to be realized in the United States, and the facility of cultivation, with the prospect of improvement under the more thorough treatment of the soil to which our people are accustomed, renders this branch of business particularly attractive.

The manufacturing resources afforded by the water-power which is in almost every section of the country, afford the opportunity for working up much of the material grown upon the soil, and enterprise may speedily put to work spindles and looms even at points remote from the great lines of transportation. To our Southern people the empire of Brazil embodies the character and sentiment among the better class of citizens, very much in keeping with our standard of taste and politeness. It has grown out of the consciousness that worth makes the man, and doubtless connected with the same relative status of races that was formerly a line of distinction between the black and white population with us. Though slavery may be destined to cease in Brazil at some future day, by gradual emancipation, yet the elements of society which have resulted from the mastery of the white man will never be erased entirely from the people. There is a dignity and a hospitality among these people that correspond in many respects to the lofty and generous bearing which characterized the Southern gentleman in former times. We find people in Brazil capable of appreciating the Southern character, and ready to extend a cordial greeting to all who come.

I HAVE SOUGHT AND FOUND THEM A HOME.

CONTENTS.

TITLE 1
INTRODUCTION 3
Hunting a Home in Brazil 5
Temperature approaching Rio 6
Harbor Defences 7
Examination of Passports 8
Entrance into the City 9
The Streets of Rio 10
Mules and Equipages 11
Omnibuses—Negroes—Ferry Boats 12
Post-Office Regulations 13
American Acquaintances 14
City Improvement Company 15
Gas-Lights of City 16
Custom-House Business 17
Negro Carriers 18
Dinner at a Restaurant 19
Brazilian and other Ladies 20
Amusements 21
Inducements for Immigration 22
Representations as to Southern People 23
Information from American Residents 24
Bay of Paranagua 25
Visit to Museum 26
Curiosities 27
Visit to Museum 28
Curiosities 29
Trip to the Suburbs 30
English Church Service 31
Disregard of the Sabbath 32
Audience with Minister of State 33
Call upon Mr. Crenshaw 34
Stroll in Fashionable Street 35
Dress—Umbrellas 36
The Ferry 37
Signal Telegraph 38
Public Buildings 39
Statue of Dom Pedro I 40
Interview with Minister of Agriculture 41
Facilities for Prospecting 42
Necessary Arrangements 43
Large Slaughter-House 44
Departure for Santos 45
Custom at Meals 46
Instruction in Portuguese 47
Use of Cigarettes 48
Fort and City of Santos 49
Visit to Mr. Wright’s Family 50
A Country Ride 51
Coffee Plantation 52
Advantages of Santos 53
Ride in Diligence 54
An Enchanting View 55
Railroad Wanted 56
Ant-Hills 57
Ancient Carriage 58
Letter to Mr. Sampson 59
Brazilian Newspaper Article 60
An Offer of Land 61
President of Province 62
Friendly Assistance 63
Rev. Mr. Blackford 64
Our Interpreter 65
Hospitality of Friends 66
Family Worship 67
Elegant Bath-house 68
Visit to Law School 69
Outfit for our Trip 70
Preparations Completed 71
Catholic and Protestant Cemeteries 72
Brick-Yards 73
Presbyterian Service in Portuguese 74
Religious Toleration Anticipated 75
Set out with Interpreter 76
Tunnel at Cachoeira 77
Railroad to Jundiahi 78
Surroundings of Jundiahi 79
Lint of Pina Tree 80
Coffee Culture near Campinas 81
Simple Mode of Cleaning Coffee 82
The “Monjolo” 83
Visit to an Elegant Establishment 84
Dining-Room 85
Ride to Fazenda—Remarks 86
Management of Coffee and Corn 87
Varieties of Timber 88
Machinery of “Settequéda” 89
Despolpidor for Coffee 90
Fanning Machinery 91
Process Similar to Rice Cleaning 92
Meeting with a Brazilian Physician 93
No Introduction between Strangers 94
The “Chigre” 95
Specimens of Carving 96
Female Apparel 97
Outfit of Camarada 98
Pleasant Weather 99
Plateau Land 100
A Magnificent Fazenda 101
European Colony 102
Coffee-Cleaning Establishment 103
Steam Saw-Mill 104
Extensive Coffee Plantation 105
Cotton Culture 106
Advantages of Brazil 107
Large Trees—Rich Soil 108
Cotton of a Fine Quality 109
Early Marriages 110
Reception at Rio Claro 111
Long Mill-Race 112
Senor Vergueiro’s Fazenda 113
Land of Inferior Quality 114
Seclusion of Women 115
Medium Coffee and Cotton 116
Barren Campo—Sterile Region 117
Numerous Coffee Trees 118
Early Ride to River Rock 119
Proposal of Sale of Lands 120
Elegant Hospitality 121
Saint-Poles—Negro Ceremonies 122
Use of Shackles for Slaves 123
Burning off Lands 124
Contracts with Negro Agents 125
The Contract System 126
How it Operates 127
Extensive Lands for Sale 128
Advantageous Site for a Village 129
Parting from Friends 130
Scarcity of Corn 131
Recently-Opened Fazenda 132
Varieties of Fruit 133
Clothing of Negroes 134
Fertile Lands—Water-Fall 135
Lands in Market 136
Villa of Araraquara 137
Reception at São Lorenço 138
Clarifying Sugar 139
Large Profits from Sugar 140
Medicine—Apothecary 141
Hunt on Sunday 142
A Friend in Need 143
Studying Portuguese 144
Richest Lands not Best for Cotton 145
Large Stock-Farm 146
Native Cows not Good for Milking 147
Lands on Rio Jacaré 148
Lightning-Bugs 149
Large Yield of Cotton 150
Join General Wood’s Party 151
Address of Welcome 152
Reply by Dr. Gaston 153
Extensive Fazendas for Sale 154
Lands of Serra of Good Quality 155
The Macucu—Droves of Cattle 156
Map of Lands near Araraquara 157
Sumptuous Entertainment 158
Oranges for Wine 159
Absence of Requisites for a City 160
Woodlands of Lageado 161
The Ant-Eater 162
Embarrassing Situation 163
Reception at Brotas 164
Hospitality of its Citizens 165
Singular Road-Guide 166
A Hungry Party 167
Latin Terms in Medicine 168
Anniversary of Marriage 169
Thoughts of Home 170
Apprehension for Welfare of Family 171
Assistance to Guest in Mounting 172
Dwelling and Kitchen Together 173
The Ligarto 174
Quality of Land on Rio Jahu 175
Neat Fencing 176
Navigation of River Tieté 177
Accommodations for Sleeping 178
Lands between Rio Jacaré and Tieté 179
Climbing a Tree under Difficulties 180
Valuation of Land in Different Sections 181
Brood Mares and Colts 182
Healthfulness of Country 183
Preparation for Feast of Holy Ghost 184
Correspondence with a Warm Friend 185
Personal Appreciation of Col. Lorenço 186
Parting with our Best Friend 187
Unpleasant Travelling 188
Arrival at Rio Claro 189
A Day with Dr. Gattiker 190
Trouble from Loss of Mule-Shoe 191
Value of Horses and Mules 192
Value of Different Articles 193
Varieties of Useful Timber 194
Specimens of Native Grass 195
Large Dinner Party 196
Addresses—Toasts 197
Water of Streams for Drinking 198
Return to Campinas 199
Dinner Party at Campinas 200
Complimentary Addresses 201
Awkward Blunder 202
Music and Refreshments 203
German Colony 204
House of Entertainment 205
Arrival at Cachoeira 206
Difficulties of Railroad Construction 207
The Lost Trunk 208
Audience with President 209
Emigration Society Organized 210
Cross on the Roadside 211
Fazenda Bananal 212
Comfortable Dwelling 213
Romantically-Situated Lake 214
Rare Combination of Beauties 215
Courtesy by a Stranger 216
Arrival at Santos 217
Attend Theatre with Friends 218
Soldiers—Sea-Sickness 219
Return to Rio Janeiro 220
Dinner at Botafogo 221
Arrival of a New Southern Delegation 222
Handbook for Emigrants 223
Hospitality at Caju 224
Report to Minister of Agriculture 225
Introduction of Friends 226
Arrangement for Further Investigation 227
Antagonism to Slavery Increasing 228
Tannery in São Christovão 229
Butchering Establishment 230
No General Market in Rio 231
Botanical Garden 232
Collection of Rare Specimens 233
Government Agent to Accompany us 234
Shopping in Rio 235
Cheap Ferriage 236
Examination of Site on the Beach 237
Ascent of Monteserrate 238
Arrangements Complete for Conceicão 239
Oldest Settlement in Brazil 240
A Novel Turnout 241
An Original Idea for Progression 242
Pedestrian Performances 243
Dreary Abode at Conceicão 244
Visit to an Old Convent 245
Ascent of River in a Canoe 246
Vagabondism has Few Cares 247
A New Remedy for Debility 248
Sample of Lands and Products 249
Trade for Otter Skins 250
Cargoes for Approaching Festival 251
“Paying the Piper” 252
A Brazilian Gentleman 253
High-Pressure Postilions 254
Almost a Disaster 255
Reconnoissance of City Lots 256
Lime-Factory—Tannery 257
Tanning not Neat, but Profitable 258
Examination of a Coast Farm 259
Attractive Site on Beach 260
Collision Growing out of Slave-Trade 261
Brick and Tile Factory 262
Favorable Report of Cananea 263
Free Travel—Sporting Students 264
Ascent of Inclined Plane 265
Difficulties of Railroading 266
Religious Tolerance Conditional 267
Wet and Dry Seasons 268
Free Land to Emigrants 269
Missionary Operations 270
A Catholic Priest Converted 271
Ordination by Presbytery 272
Prospective Extension of Railroad 273
Pack-Mules Laden with Cotton 274
Arrival at Itu 275
Fine Collection of Fruits 276
Good Site for Machinery 277
Extensive Quarry 278
General Use of Tooth-Picks 279
Cheap Rents at Porto Feliz 280
An Intelligent Mulatto Priest 281
The Negro Taint 282
Iron-Works at Epanema 283
An Opening for Capitalists 284
Good Quarters at Sorocaba 285
Non-observance of Christmas 286
Pleasant Evening-Party 287
Whips and Riding Outfit 288
Campos and Cultivated Slopes 289
Goitre and Leprosy 290
Town of Itapetininga 291
Cotton-Gin by Leg-Power 292
Corn, Cotton, Potatoes 293
Manure Advantageous 294
Stock-Farm Enclosure 295
Report from Major Meriwether 296
Land on the Road to Lençoes 297
Festivities of New Year’s Eve 298
Sad Thoughts 299
Kindness of a Catholic Vicar 300
Procession of Our Lady of Conception 301
The Priest’s Family 302
Females Riding Astride 303
Leaving Paranapanema 304
Aspect of the Country 305
Bedbugs Rare—Fleas Plenty 306
Dodging the Recruiting Officer 307
Backwoodsman’s Dwelling 308
Table Arrangements 309
Sleeping Accommodations 310
Peculiar Custom after Eating 311
Leather Breeches Don’t Tear 312
Hunting Stray Mules 313
A Night in the Forest 314
A Sliding Scale of Travel 315
Most Excruciating Roads 316
Limestone, Lead and Iron Ore 317
Killing Cobras 318
Plan for Descent of River 319
Deficient Cotton Culture 320
Coffee Trees—Rice-Mill 321
Salubrity of Climate 322
Fish—Scenery 323
Regular Dug-Out Canoe 324
Speaking Portuguese 325
Rolling Scaffolds—Saw-Mill 326
Cost of Travel by Water 327
Cotton of Four Years Growth 328
Ponto-Grosso—Cotton and Corn 329
Successful Transplanting of Cotton 330
Change of Rice Seed 331
Mandioca of Two Kinds 332
Cotton Grown without Ploughing 333
Rice and Fish for Food 334
Nest of Mahogany-Backs 335
Fishing with Gill-Net 336
Special Examination of Lands 337
Healthfulness of Locality 338
Beautiful Country 339
Fine Water-Power 340
Coffee Trees Heavily Laden 341
Forest Lands—Mosquitoes 342
Mountainous Aspect of Country 343
Hedges—Timber Abundant 344
Braço de Gado River 345
Wood-Rats—Troublesome Fly 346
Original Forest—Secondary Growth 347
Absence of Rain for Five Days 348
Land for Depot Tendered 349
Favorable-Looking Crops 350
Terms of Sale for Private Lands 351
Noble Hospitality at Caiacauga 352
Large Production of Corn 353
Location for Growing Coffee 354
Artificial Channel near River 355
Interview with Mr. Dunn 356
Epidemic at Ignape 357
Southern Families at Cananea 358
One of the Oldest Settlements 359
Very Fatal Bloody Flux 360
Temperance of City of Santos 361
Government of Brazil 362
Mints, Banks, Schools 363
On Board a Steamship 364
Again in Rio Janeiro 365
Preparing Report of Observations 366
Boarding-House by Southern Family 367
Warehouse for Agricultural Implements 368
Generosity of Mr. C. Nathan 369
Measures to Promote Immigration 370
Divisions of Soil and Territory 371
Transportation—Communication 372
Agricultural and other Resources 373
Character of Brazilians 374
Contents 375

-----

Footnote 1:

The adoption of a British flag by this ship-owner during the progress
of the war enabled him to continue sailing upon the high seas, and his
sentiments being known to the confederate cruisers, secured one of his
vessels from destruction, that fell into their hands.

As vessels of Great Britain and the United States are more largely
occupied in navigating the high seas than those of other
nationalities, it is the custom of those meeting upon the ocean to
hail in English, and there is scarcely a captain in charge of a vessel
of any nation that is not sufficiently acquainted with the English
language to communicate in this way with another.

The code of signals used by the English have been adopted by all
nations navigating the waters of the Atlantic and Pacific; and thus
vessels communicate with each other upon any matter desired, without
being in speaking distance.

Footnote 2:

This discount upon United States money is practised very often upon
strangers by those occupying other positions than hucksters, but a
dollar in gold or silver coin of the United States will command two
millreas of Brazilian money in most respectable business
establishments of Rio de Janeiro, and is generally valued at this rate
by exchange brokers. Upon this standard one dump is worth two cents,
and I should have received twelve dumps and a half for my quarter
instead of the ten which were given. It will save the reader who may
go to Rio more than the price of this book, to keep in mind what is
stated in this note.

Footnote 3:

Captain Lee informs me that in August, 1864, there sailed from Bahia a
vessel containing over one hundred of these liberated negroes in
families, men, and women, and children, who were bound for Africa,
with the expectation of remaining in that country. They expressed a
hope of being able to exert a favorable influence upon the natives,
and it would be a very interesting part of their history to know
whether they have lapsed into barbarism or have improved those with
whom their lot is cast in Africa.

Footnote 4:

This gentleman has since ceased to be the chief engineer of the
railroad, and his brother now occupies the position.

Footnote 5:

This admirable disinfecting establishment was subsequently visited.
The materials are pumped from the reservoir, which is below the level
of the water, and subjected to the action of various articles, among
which I recognized alum, lime and charcoal, after which a deposit of
the solid portions is formed in receptacles of immense proportions.

The fluid being acted upon by these agents, and then filtered, is
rendered so entirely free from impurities that we were informed the
superintendent drank some of it on the occasion of a visit by the
Emperor, to illustrate the perfection of the process of disinfection.
Delicious draught, no doubt!

There is no unpleasant smell about the place, and the remaining solid
matter is employed as a fertilizer, without any of the disagreeable
concomitants of poudrette.

The building is an elegant stone structure, and the operations are
conducted by steam, under the immediate control of the English
contractors, who are known as the city improvement company.

The gentleman in charge stated that this was an entirely new process,
and that it has not been introduced elsewhere.

Footnote 6:

A sack of coffee weighing one hundred and sixty pounds is carried in
this way without any apparent inconvenience, and most of the loading
of vessels from the warehouses near the wharf is performed after this
manner. The negroes usually move under such a burden in a brisk walk,
or more frequently in a trot; and a number being employed, the work
progresses very rapidly in putting a cargo of coffee aboard a ship.

Footnote 7:

I am indebted to Captain E. A. Lie, the intelligent master of the
vessel in which my return passage was made, for some interesting
particulars in regard to Pompeii, which he visited in 1857. His
statement is as follows:

“The mass of volcanic matter which overlies the site of the former
city of Pompeii is principally ashes, and on the borders has undergone
such changes, that fields are in cultivation upon the spot.

“The explorations are entirely under the directions of the Imperial
Government, and a guard is kept constantly over the place, so as to
prevent any one from appropriating articles that may be discovered by
those engaged in the work.

“The streets are so contracted that even the narrow vehicles of that
period were unable to pass each other, and hence some of the
thoroughfares are supposed to have afforded passage in one direction,
while others were passed in the opposite direction. The deep cuts in
the stone paving of the streets indicate that there was much passing
of carriages or carts for a long period.

“Connecting with the side-walks there are stones elevated above the
general level of the streets, upon which persons might step and avoid
water that was flowing in the street. There are no signs of drains or
sewers to be seen, nor of aqueducts.

“Those bodies remaining in the houses at the time of this wholesale
burial are completely petrified, and black as ebony, a number of which
are preserved in all their perfection of form. There are also
petrified specimens of fruits, of bread, even with the baker’s name
imprinted on it; of beef, of pork, and of various viands that were
ready for eating.

“A large number of precious stones have been recovered, and among them
an immense convex emerald, of great value, which was discovered in a
tomb, supposed to contain the body of some very important dignitary.
Many rich treasures have been found in the cemetery, evidently lodged
with the dead in their last resting-place.

“There are evidences of much taste in the architectural department,
and specimens of very elaborate workmanship have been discovered. The
amphitheatre was evidently a grand structure, and with the base below
the general surface of the earth, it is arranged with ascending rows
of stone seats for the accommodation of a large assemblage. All the
buildings are of stone.

“There is an extensive museum at Naples, which contains all the
varieties from this reservoir of antiquarian relics; and to make the
tour of this establishment, with a proper examination of these
articles, and others of interest collected there, requires two weeks
of unremitting observation.”

Footnote 8:

Captain Buhlaw received an appointment similar in rank to that held in
the confederate service, and has been charged with the survey and
mapping of the public lands near Cananea. In this service Mr. Mallory
is associated with him under appointment of the government.

In regard to the tender of an appointment to the writer, the length of
time occupied in the examination of the country precluded any other
duty.

Footnote 9:

After the return of the Emperor from the seat of war, he and the
Empress were seen in their coach, with six horses and a number of
outriders. She endeavored to return the courtesies of those on the
street by an almost incessant series of motions of the head from side
to side, while he maintained an attitude of dignified complacence.

The horses are managed by men seated upon the saddle-horse of each
pair, and they dash through the street at a rapid gait, a bugle being
sounded frequently by a man riding in advance, so as to have the way
cleared for the passage of the royal cortege.

Footnote 10:

Though this ant is so troublesome in the culture of the cotton grown
from American seed, it does not attack the Brazilian cotton, which
seems to be a variety of the sea island plant, that has been grown to
a limited extent for a considerable period in Brazil. The stalk of
this latter becomes very large, and really assumes the proportions of
a small tree after growing three or four successive years. The lint is
fine and the seed black and clean, but the yield is much less than the
cotton from our ordinary short staple seed. The exemption from injury
by the ant would constitute a very important recommendation if it
produced as well as the other variety, but it is entirely abandoned
since the introduction of the seed from the United States.

Footnote 11:

At his suggestion, an article appeared in the _Diario De São Paulo_,
of September 26th, 1865, from which the following extracts are
translated:

“This commission of Dr. Gaston arouses serious considerations. Under
existing circumstances, our attention ought to be fixed, by
preference, upon the States of the South of the American Union. A
large portion of the party vanquished in the recent struggle will seek
a new country. They cannot submit to the new order of things and live
on a footing of equality with their slaves. Accumulated trouble, and
various other reasons, concur to induce them to emigrate. If our
government lose this favorable opportunity to draw them to our country
it will not find another.

“If these families come, many others will come after them, and thus
spontaneous emigration will be developed for our country. In the
disposition with which they are now proposing to emigrate, it is
natural that they should flow into the same place, and the country
which has the happiness to receive well the first emigrants will
receive all.

“The emigration from the States of the South of the Union is exactly
that which suits us best. We do not want adventurers, who come into
our country to gain fortunes, and that return to their domicils when
they are secured. We want men who will establish themselves diligently
in our country, and who will make common cause with us. The American
emigrants that come will remain with us, and will never return to
their country. The motives which induce the emigration afford us, in
this respect, a complete guarantee. They procure a new country. They
take as theirs the country which receives them. This consideration is
important.

“The Anglo-American race has no rival in the world. The grand struggle
through which they have passed leaves their prominence well
established. It is the race which is most appropriate for us.
Eminently industrious, enterprising and persevering, it will impart a
notable impulse to our country. It is not possible to calculate the
rapid progress which the country may have if this race comes, to turn
to advantage its natural resources.

“Our political institutions cannot be repugnant to those inhabitants
of the Union. In our country they will find all the liberty which can
reasonably be desired. Our form of government, though it is not
federative, approximates this system. The separate action of the
provinces gives them, to a certain extent, an independent existence.

“The spectacle of slavery, which so much impresses strangers, will be
viewed with indifference by those emigrants from the Southern States
of the Union, that until very recently held slaves, and for this
object sustained the greatest struggle which the world has seen.

“This subject deserves the special attention of the Government, whose
lights and practical knowledge should guide the emissary of the
emigrants in the selection of a locality that may be proper to receive
them, giving him every means of enlightenment and information. The
stranger, however qualified he may be, can easily be deceived in this
respect.

“All depends upon the success of the first emigrants, and for the
accomplishment of this every care should be taken in this matter.

“Our countrymen should not expect to sell their lands to these new
emigrants for fabulous prices. If they bring some means they cannot
nevertheless employ large capitals, because they have not got them.
They once had fortunes, but the war has wasted them. The devastation
which passed over the States of the South is well known.”

Footnote 12:

A notice has since appeared in the public prints of the falling down
of this building, and the killing of several workmen. It is attributed
to some excavation made in the vicinity of the wall, but the
construction was such as might favor its downfall, and the use of the
term ruin in the description implies such a condition.

Footnote 13:

It is not usual to find pepper, vinegar, catsup, mustard, or any thing
of this kind upon the tables of the common people in the country, and
hence the presence of these articles becomes a fact worthy of notice.

Footnote 14:

This expression, and the same placing of the hands with the palms
together in front of the breast are observed also by children in
approaching a parent for the first time after rising in the morning,
or after being absent for a time. It is a common practice among the
better class of people, and even after the children are grown.

Footnote 15:

The valuation placed by the owner upon this portion of the land is ten
thousand ($10,000) dollars, and taking the amount of productive land
as only three thousand (3,000) acres, having in all one hundred
thousand coffee trees, the calculation per acre of three and a third
($3.33⅓) dollars is certainly very much more favorable than most
improved land can be bought elsewhere in this region of country.

Footnote 16:

The owner of the land proposes to take seven thousand five hundred
dollars ($7,500) for the lands lying adjacent to the river Roque,
which are supposed to include two thousand acres of good land, but
estimated as containing more than double that amount by the
proprietor.

The body of land described as of superior quality, in a southwest
course from the buildings, with the site of the fazenda, are not
offered for sale.

A few families might be accommodated with these lands, but they are
not adapted for a large settlement of people.

At one point the Roque tract is said to connect with Angelica, and if
that territory can be bought upon similar terms, it would permit
extension of the population; but, as was stated, Senor Vergueiro
declined to name the price fixed upon that property.

Footnote 17:

A very fine specimen of brown sandstone was found in large quantity
upon this land, and the fact is mentioned to illustrate the resources
of the country.

Footnote 18:

I am constantly reminded of my obligations to this gentleman in the
use of a fine large blank-book, which was presented by him for my
records, besides many other acts of kindness on his part.

Footnote 19:

Members of the same family very generally have different names in
Brazil; and when a family name is recognized, it is not always placed
last as with us, but is arranged with the other names as fancy may
suggest.

Footnote 20:

I am informed that extensive hat-factories are in operation in
Perecicaba, Rio Claro, Campinas and in the province of Minas, where
they are made in several of the fazendas. They are prepared of good
quality from both fur and wool, but the price of the latter should
secure an excellent article.

Footnote 21:

There is no tax on lands except a small per cent. paid at the time of
purchase, and that even is not required in the sale of government land
to our people.

Footnote 22:

Captain Lie tells me this custom of shaking hands all round after
dinner is very common with the families of Norway when there is
company at their houses. It is not general in Brazil, but so far as
observed, is confined to this family, and I supposed that all were
taking leave to depart for their respective homes, but found that they
repaired to the parlor for further social intercourse.

Footnote 23:

In the midst of all this poverty it is most remarkable that theft is
very rare in this country, and throughout every class of people there
seems to be no necessity for any special safeguards to property of any
description.

Even in the towns and cities through which I have passed there are
fewer precautions observed against larceny than is customary in all
parts of the United States, and the general confidence manifested in
the honesty of the people is a very commendable feature of society.

Footnote 24: