Chapter XIII: Part 13

The farina, however, when properly prepared from this poisonous root, is found to be nutritious and healthy; and this variety of the mandioca supplies most of the people with a substitute for bread. The roots are scraped and grated by a machine, when the coarse powder is subjected to compression under a screw to express the juice, after which the solid portion is pounded in a mortar until reduced to a fine powder. This is then dried in shallow pans over a furnace, and undergoes a cooking or parching process that fits it for keeping in sacks or barrels for any length of time. It is generally put on the table in this dry state, and is mixed with almost every thing else that may be eaten, in the same manner that we use bread.

Besides this, there is also a beautifully fine and white powder made from the mandioca by a process similar to that of preparing starch; and it is used for diet under the same circumstances that arrow-root is employed with us.

The mandioca grows well upon this land, and yields without culture, but should be allowed to remain in the ground from eighteen months to two years to attain maturity.

One stalk, which was torn out of the ground this morning for me to examine the roots, had twenty developments resembling sweet potatoes, and the whole would have filled a peck measure, thus affording a most abundant yield. It is propagated by cuttings from the limbs of the growing plants, and these are planted so that the trees cover the entire land densely and uniformly.

After breakfasting, the extensive new ground (roça) was visited. One hundred and sixty (160) acres planted in cotton and twenty acres in corn and rice present quite a promising prospect, though as yet nothing definite can be determined as to the result. The cotton is all young, but the most advanced looks well, notwithstanding there is in some parts a considerable admixture of fern and poke-stalks, calling for the hoe, and the dead trees are lying promiscuously over the ground. There has been an attempt to plant in rows, but they are very irregular; and the stand of cotton is in many places deficient, though it does not seem to be the result of destruction by the ant as in other places.

All the work here is done with the hoe; and the planting is effected by digging a hoeful of dirt, dropping five or six seed, and then covering, at intervals of two feet, more or less.

This land is elevated and the soil dark gray, with an admixture of sand, presenting very favorable conditions for cotton if the culture was properly conducted.

The corn was yet young but flourishing, and is expected to yield without farther work.

The rice is planted in the flats between the more elevated grounds, and evidently will give an excellent yield.

Pine-apples were found growing promiscuously in different parts of this plantation, and I had the opportunity of eating this most delicious fruit to my complete satisfaction; and we started back with our canoe well stocked with large, yellow, sweet-scented cones.

In returning I observed the settlements more than in descending, as it was no longer raining, and there was a large number of dwellings on the margin of the Ribeiro, having in many instances a rice-mill connected with the establishment. These mills are moved usually by small streams of water coming into the river from either side; and a prime object in locating a residence is to be near one of these streams.

At the place where we stopped to eat our cold dinner, called Esterão da Pedro, a pretty article of farina was made from the rice, and Senor Miguel tells me the same is prepared at his house.

This article is used in its simple state or prepared in different forms of bread. It is likewise used as a powder for the skin, and relieves irritation of the surface in this warm climate. The rice is largely used by all those people along the banks of the Ribeiro, and with fish constitutes most of the food of many of the inhabitants. To this mode of living is attributed the swarthy, lean, and haggard look of the population in many places we passed; but there is little doubt of the local influence from the lowlands adjacent to the river having much to do in causing this impoverished and sickly appearance of men, women, and children. All parties concur with Senor Miguel in stating that there are but few cases of disease of any kind in this region; yet there is a want of stamina in the constitutional structure that indicates something unfavorable to health, and I should not like a location so low down on the river, or so immediately upon its margin.

THURSDAY, _January 11, 1866_.

Not being able to make the return trip, we stopped for the night at the house of Senor Bento José de Morais, and spreading our bedding upon the floor, remained until this morning. Taking a cup of coffee, we resumed our ascent of the river at an early hour. The notable rock of the horse (Pedra de Cavallo) soon came into view, and being on the dividing line between Xiririca and Ignape, is a point of some interest.

It stands in the middle of the river and is supposed to bear a resemblance to a horse.

Stopping at a house upon the bank of the river to eat the supplies brought along for our breakfast, a clean place could scarcely be found to spread our table-cloth. Senor Miguel proposed to the occupants to remove some things from a table for our use, and such a nest of cock-roaches as was broken up by the proceeding has rarely been seen in a private dwelling.

As the mahogany-backs were scampering off in all directions, my friend gave me a significant look, and when an opportunity presented, spoke his opinion of the slovenliness and laziness of the people.

We were joined at the place where we spent the night by Senor José Antonio de Silva, who has a small place above Xiririca, and he states that the average crop of coffee from his trees is eight (8) pounds per tree, and that he has gathered from one isolated tree as much as thirty-two (32) pounds in one year. He says the crop in that neighborhood is sure and of good quality.

It rained heavily during the afternoon, but we were thoroughly protected by a covering of raw-hides.

FRIDAY, _January 12, 1866_.

After enjoying a comfortable night in the hospitable mansion of my friend, Senor Miguel, I went this morning with his son to set a gill-net for fish, and thence across the river to gather some grapes. This planting is made from cuttings of vines in the United States, and is now bearing a crop of fine fruit. The vines are arranged upon a large wooden frame, and appear vigorous and healthy, though upon the low land near the river, which is certainly not a very favorable site for the grape culture.

That celestial fruit, the jaboticaba, was also found growing in the same locality, but only a few remained of the abundant crop which the trees are said to have borne this year.

Several other varieties of fruit trees were seen, but it not being the season of maturing, I had no opportunity to test their qualities.

On returning to the gill-net quite a number of small fish were entangled in its meshes, and Senor Guilherme has since visited it again, getting quite a full mess for the entire family. Some of them, called cascudo, are a new order of fish to me, having a hard skin with scales like the pike or gar, and a very large broad fin upon the back, spreading out like a fan.

The sun was shining brightly during our walk, but it subsequently clouded up and rained.

Senor Miguel showed me this afternoon a field in which cotton and sugar-cane had been planted together, the crop of cotton being gathered some months ago, and the cane being now cut so as to permit the cotton to make another crop from the old stalk.[31]

SATURDAY, _January 13, 1866_.

All things being provided for a tour of observation, Senor Miguel, his son Guilherme and myself embarked in a large canoe at 9 o’clock this morning, to ascend the Ribeira. The margin of the river on the way to Xiririca presented many desirable locations which I had not been able to see when coming down in the night. A short stop was made at the village, where a letter was delivered to Senor Bernardo José Cabral, that should have been presented on my first arrival. Other letters were left for parties who were not at home.

On resuming our ascent of the river, a short visit was made to the farm of Senor Francisco Alvares da Silva, where his interesting family received us cordially, and one of his daughters gave us several pieces of music on the piano. He regaled us with excellent grapes of various qualities, the germs of which were imported from the United States. A few stalks of cotton from American seed were growing finely in his yard. But I was most interested in his coffee field, where trees from three years to twenty years growth presented a most exuberant crop of berries, and certainly present as good a prospect for a large yield of coffee as any of the trees seen in the best regions of Campinas, Lemeira and Rio Claro. These trees are growing in a sandy soil, upon a high bank of the river, and there is an excellent crop of corn in the intervening space, with good cane adjoining.

Our progress up the river enabled me to see again the lands on the banks, which had been seen in my first descent, and further observation impressed me even more favorably.

In many places there are hills extending to the margin, but in most parts the land is elevated, with an extended plain, looking as if the soil would be admirably adapted to cultivation. Corn, rice and sugar-cane, with occasional small patches of coffee, were observed in different localities, and this region seems not only well suited to a variety of products, but also is admirably adapted for settlement. It is high, and gives evidence of being healthy in the appearance of the people living upon the margin of the river.

I have seen nowhere better specimens of healthy, vigorous development than was presented by the daughters of the gentleman at whose house we stopped, and the report given is unqualifiedly favorable to the healthiness of the country and the pleasantness of the climate. Though in the rainy season there is frequently wet weather for a few days, yet even during this period there are intervals of clear, bright days.

The sun shone brightly upon us during most of the day, and though there was a mere sprinkle late in the afternoon, it soon passed off and the sky was again free from cloud.

The current, after ascending a short distance from Xiririca, becomes more rapid, and though we had four stout negroes to man our large canoe, it gave them heavy labor in using the poles. Upon making the suggestion that it was severe work, the reply was simply that they were used to it and did not tire.

It was after dark when we reached the mouth of the Inguary, and this being the point of disembarkation, we stopped at a house for the night.

SUNDAY, _January 14, 1866_.

Again, my dependence upon the arrangements of others induced a departure from the proper observance of the Sabbath. The night had been spent very comfortably, with the assistance of bedding brought in the canoe; and, though I slept in an open shed or piazza, I was not annoyed either by the bite or buzzing of mosquitoes; which gives a promise of exemption here from this troublesome tenant of the forests. The temperature at this point, which is twelve miles above Xiririca, is most delightful; and I am reminded of the remark of General Waddy Thompson, in regard to the table lands of Mexico, that a person having a coat would not care to take it off, or if it was removed, he would not care to put it on again. It is that genial state of the atmosphere which renders a person quite satisfied with his situation. With the majestic Ribeira flowing at our feet, and the beautiful island, to which allusion was made in my descent from Iporanga, lying immediately opposite our place of lodging, relieved by a green background of luxuriant corn upon the other side of the water, this pleasant spot held out encouragement for a thorough examination of the adjacent country. The soil near the bank of the river is a dark loamy earth, that gives every indication of fertility. A field of corn and also a patch of sugar-cane were seen growing near our quarters, and presented a very flourishing condition.

The negroes at the place said there had been a small space planted in cotton, but that the weeds and grass had overgrown it, so that it was abandoned. Upon asking why they did not work it better, they seemed to regard it as too troublesome to cultivate, saying “Não da lucro,” (it does not give profit.) So much for their knowledge of the value of cotton. A small specimen of cotton from a neighboring farm was brought for inspection, which looked as if it might have been produced under the same sort of disadvantages which induced the other to be abandoned, and gave a very unfavorable impression of the cotton culture in this part of the country. The land, however, is evidently well suited to the growth of cotton, when it may receive proper attention, and fine crops have been seen both above and below this point.

The animals which had been sent from Caiacauga across the country arrived here this morning, and all the preliminary steps were taken for proceeding into the woods. Two pack-mules were loaded with bedding, cooking-utensils and supplies of various kinds; yet there were sundry articles to be carried by the negroes, and among them a huge tin box having cooked provisions, plates, tumblers, spoons, knives and forks, &c., &c. I was surprised to see that even two wooden forks and a pole were to be carried, for suspending a hammock at night, especially as our expected tour lay through forests, where these things could be got when we stopped.

Seven negro men and one negro woman (as a cook) accompanied us, to subserve the various objects connected with the examination of the lands and the care of the stock.

Before starting, we were joined by Senor Bernardo Antonio de Ramos Moraes, who is the owner of the small house at which we quartered, and resides a mile distant from the river. He has here a large body of land, and another party adjoining him below has a considerable tract lying on the river, both of which will be sold, if it is thought desirable to secure a body of land in this locality, extending to the water.

The stream, known as Ribeirão Inguary, which enters the Ribeira de Ignape at this point, passes through the lands of the above-named party, and at a short distance, perhaps half a mile, from the Ribeira, there is a fall in its channel, that would afford a very good site for any machinery that might be desirable.

After passing through this land, we entered a body of land owned by Senor Miguel, and encountered at the outset quite a hilly region, a part of which has formerly been cultivated, and is now covered with a second growth, (capoeira,) while there is at our place a field of fine corn, which indicates quite a productive soil. This land is of a dark gray aspect, with some large gravel, and would certainly yield cotton advantageously, even where it has been once cultivated with the hoe only and turned out. There is adjoining this territory, and lying in an angle between two of its extensions, a portion of land occupied by a number of small farmers, who live in close proximity to each other, having the ordinary thatched houses of the country. If these can be secured on reasonable terms, the houses might form the nucleus for a settlement, and they are not more than three or four miles from the river, with a very fair road.

After passing this populated valley, we traversed some lands belonging to Senor José Alves de Moraes, which still lay irregularly, and the soil assuming more of a yellow aspect, while the growth of the palmetto was intermixed with the large forest trees to a considerable extent. On this place there was seen a small patch of coffee trees, three years old, heavily laden with berries; and, though the soil was rather sandy, it seemed to be favorable to the growth of the coffee. It is certain that nowhere else have trees of the same age presented a more favorable prospect for a yield of fruit.

Leaving this, we again entered the territory of Senor Miguel, at a part where the configuration is more regular, and approaches in many places a level surface. It is an undulating plain, with slopes here and there of more or less abruptness; and having plateaus of elevated level land, and also flat low lands which lie along the stream, Aborbora, which runs through this land. Besides this stream, there are other smaller branches running into it, which serve to water all parts of the tract. But there is not any site, which was seen on this portion of the territory, that would be adapted to the use of water-power for machinery, and the reliance for this region must be upon the water-power of the Inguary lying between it and the port of shipment for products.

The quality of these lands varies greatly, presenting in parts great fertility, and in others evidently of less adaptation to the growth of the great staples of the country; while there is occasionally a small portion of land that seems to have been to a great extent exhausted by cultivation in by-gone years, and is overgrown with a long grass, corresponding to our broom-sage grass.

The proportion of virgin forest and second growth could not be accurately ascertained, but my impression is, that three-fourths of the territory has never been entered by the axe; and in this, the Pon D’Alho and Figaro Branco are of frequent occurrence, which are here considered as indicative of the best soil. The timber is not of that enormous dimension which was observed in some parts of the interior, nor do I consider any portion of this land equal in fertility and durability to the (terra rocha) dark purple lands of the inferior of the province. Yet the soil and the growth upon it are well adapted to the purposes of the agriculturist, and the facility for machinery, with the convenience of navigation, are matters of much moment.

I saw young corn on a portion of the tract of Senor Miguel, last described, which presented a good appearance, and also rice growing in upland that looked very favorable. Some older corn examined did not impress me as a good crop, though there was evidence of want of proper culture. The beans had evidently not yielded well, and it was stated that the time of planting by the tenants was improper.

MONDAY, _January 15, 1866_.

Having spent the night at the house of one of the tenants of this property, immediately upon the bank of a small stream known as Aborbora, it was found that we were not entirely exempt from mosquitoes, as on the night before, yet they gave us no trouble in the house whatever. This stream is one of the branches that go to make up the Rio Jacupiranga, and its name is applied to this territory, supposed to embrace two square leagues of land, owned by Senor Miguel.

In leaving this house we ascended a short abrupt hill, and reached an elevated plain which extended with only one depression for half a mile, being in part covered with original forest, and presenting a dark mulatto soil. A portion, which was cleared, had an excellent crop of rice growing upon it, though there were low lands in the vicinity which would probably have suited this article better; and this want of judgment in arranging crops seems to be general among the people of the class that become tenants in this way.

After passing this level region the land became hilly and even mountainous at one point, making the ascent and descent difficult for our animals. The soil upon these hills was inclined to a clay consistence of a yellow hue, while the increase of the palmetto and scrubby palm indicated an inferior quality of land. Yet, upon a slope of one of these hills, corn was growing well in fresh land, while it was looking badly in old land.

Upon a small creek called Ribeirão de Lagoa, a low, flat, dark-colored bottom land spread out to some distance on either side, and the corn seen upon it indicated a good soil. This stream would admit of machinery, and there is sufficient fall near the point where it was crossed to render the water-power available. It is clear and cool, so that we enjoyed a draught of the water as much as if from a spring.

The house of another tenant was located near this stream, and he had a small patch of coffee trees, that seemed to have been neglected, presenting a very untoward prospect for a crop. The position being low, is doubtless likewise an unfavorable condition, while the soil is not here suited to their growth, being deficient in stamina.

In this place was seen a hedge of a scrubby, knotty tree with numerous short, thick limbs that seemed well suited to exclude even hogs from a field; and, as it grows from the cutting, an enclosure can be readily effected in a few years.

There is also another small tree having thorns that is used for hedges, and the enclosure so made is called “cerca de espinhos,” making an effectual barrier.

Although these and other growths are available for enclosure of grounds, hedges are not very often resorted to in the country; and in the campos where the timber is wanting, large ditches are made at a great expenditure of labor, whereas a hedge could be grown to answer every purpose when only cattle and horses or mules are to be enclosed.

In this region of country, however, there is an abundant supply of timber, and the only difficulty is to find that which is favorable for splitting into rails.

After traversing the premises of another party, that contained the poorest specimen of land seen since leaving the river, we proceeded to an extension of the territory of Senor Miguel, which goes within four miles of the town of Xiririca. There corn and rice were growing very satisfactorily, and though most of the land lay unfavorably for cultivation, those parts that are cleared have a comparatively level surface.

Near this portion of the land a field of coffee, on the premises of another party, presented a very encouraging prospect for a yield, being generally loaded heavily with fruit. This was upon a steep hillside from which the superficial soil had disappeared, and the mulatto clay formation, which forms the basis of most parts throughout this region, remained alone to support the growth of the trees. These elevated lands are thought to be most favorable to the coffee.

From this point we retraced our steps for a few miles, and then descended a stream called Braço de Gado for six or seven miles along a low, flat, and broad bottom land, having elevated lands on each side. A tenant occupies a house where we entered this territory, and there is near by an extensive fall in the stream above-named, which would be available for an overshot wheel of any desired size.

This point is particularly suitable for the location of machinery, as it is but four miles from Xiririca, with a road already in use which could be readily made to serve for wagons. It is, besides, near the direct line of communication between this place and Cananea.

In the course of the Braço de Gado several small streams enter from each side, affording water for the several humble families who occupy houses at different points by the favor of the owner.

The ridges upon each side, approaching a mountainous elevation, constitute the boundary lines of this property; and the breadth varies from three to four miles, while the length is considered to be six miles. The slopes of the hills on each side admit for the most part of ready cultivation; and the soil being of a dark gray aspect with a mulatto clay base, is adapted to all the staples, yet the most irregular portions would be most appropriately used for coffee. I saw good corn growing far up on the side of one of these slopes, and corn and rice were also seen upon the level plain below, but was too young to determine what would be the result.

This low land is generally level, and yet is not at all marshy, as the stream has a deep channel below the surface of the ground with abrupt angular banks, so that the water does not overflow except in immense falls of rain causing a flood of water.

The earth is solid throughout this bottom, and the road firm and good, except at the crossings of some of the small branches. With very little work a fine wagon-road could be made extending along this stream on a level route, communicating above with the road to Xiririca, or extending below some four or five miles over the same kind of surface to the Rio Jacupiranga, which is navigable with the largest canoes thence to its mouth.

TUESDAY, _January 16, 1866_.

We spent the night at the house of a mulatto man named Senor Bartholomew da Costa; and having a heavy rain, the Braço de Gado was so full this morning that it could not be forded without swimming. Notwithstanding this flood of water, there were very few points at which it overflowed the high banks, and yet it did not fall sufficiently during the day for us to cross it, so that we remained at this place observing what was to be seen about the premises of this gentleman of color.

A patch of coffee, having some two thousand trees, was examined, which afforded a poor prospect of a yield. This was, in part, perhaps, attributable to being planted with a southern exposure, instead of facing towards the east; yet it is most likely that the soil is deficient in those elements suited to the production of coffee.

Corn and rice were growing well in the flat land along the stream, but most of it was too young to form a proper opinion as to the yield. Observing that the rice was missing in various places, I was told by the owner that it had been eaten by rats which live in the woods, of whose voracity there is no reason to doubt; though this is the first time that these rats have been heard of in the country.

Here it was observed that the cows were very much annoyed by a fly which deposits its egg in the flesh and causes numerous points of irritation in the skin. The same result ensues when they make a deposit in the human skin.[32]

WEDNESDAY, _January 17, 1866_.

Finding the Braço de Gado reduced again to its natural channel, we left our imprisonment, enjoying another day as bright and clear as that of yesterday, until late in the afternoon, when there was a slight shower of rain. This body of land is the possession of Senor Miguel, and we proceeded from it across the ridge towards the Ribeiro to examine another tract owned by him, of a configuration and quality that is better suited to agricultural operations than any of the territory thus far seen. There is perhaps a square league of land in this lot; and it combines original forest, secondary growth, and open cultivated fields. A large portion of the original forest is well timbered, and not so irregular as to prevent cultivation with the plough; but there is one part that assumes a mountainous character and of course precludes ordinary culture. On the crest of this elevation I was informed that crops had been grown and that the soil was good, but I did not make the ascent.

In the lands under cultivation I saw a few patches of corn, some of which was growing well, while others indicated an exhausted soil as well as deficient culture. At one small house where we stopped there were rice and peas, which the negro tenant had grown on the place; and at another there was a considerable lot of corn. There is upon this place a site where a large rice-mill was formerly in operation, and might be made available again for machinery. I found the effects of the fly upon the skin of cattle here also, and any quantity of mosquitoes in the wood.

THURSDAY, _January 18, 1866_.

After a tour of five days and a return to the comforts of home, Senor Miguel announced this as a day of rest for us; but a few points may be adverted to in connection with my past observations upon the surroundings of this place.

This section of country about Xiririca is exempt from local or epidemic diseases, and the general constitutional stamina of the population indicates vigorous health. Goitre and leprosy, which are found in most other sections, are unknown in this region. The climate is free from that oppressive heat which prevails in higher latitudes, and which is observed in less elevated localities.

The atmosphere is also free from fogs or any other undue dampness. I am here in what is known to be the rainy season of this country, and setting out from the homestead of Senor Miguel Antonio Jorge on Saturday, the 13th inst., we ascended the Ribeira de Ignape for twenty-five miles, and during the entire day the sun was shining brightly, and only a mere sprinkle late in the evening for a few moments. On the following day we crossed the range of hills at right angles from the river, proceeding some eight or ten miles, and again the sun shone brightly all the day without any thing more than a light sprinkle late in the afternoon. On the third day we traversed hills and valleys on a line parallel with the Ribeira for a distance of fifteen miles, and still the sun shone brightly throughout the day with no signs of rain until night. On the fourth day the sun beamed forth again, and the brightness of the fifth was only marred by a sprinkle in the evening.

FRIDAY, _January 19, 1866_.

My friend Senor Miguel Antonio Jorge arranged that his son, Senor Guilherme, should accompany me to-day to visit the lands lying between our former route and the river. Setting out with a guide from Caiacauga, we proceeded nearly four miles upon the road by which we returned from our former tour, and then diverging to the right hand, we passed through a portion of land lying favorably, and with good soil. This is located upon a stream which forms the line of division between the territory which Senor Miguel proposes to sell and that of his home place.

This stream further up has a good site for machinery, which is located upon lands of Senor João Franco, that will be disposed of if they are desired. This point would serve a good purpose in regard to much of the land, which is best suited for agricultural operations, yet it is six or eight miles from the Ribeira, upon which shipment must be made.

With a view to accommodate the products of these lands, Senor Miguel proposes to donate land for a depot on the river below his residence, to which point there is a practicable route for a road, which is now in use.

After passing the mill site to which allusion is above made, we ascended a very steep mountain, and the descent was equally steep on the other side, so that this soil, though presenting a favorable aspect, is not likely to be in requisition for cultivation.

Leaving this elevation we visited a coffee field of Senor Francisco de Paula, upon the slope of a high hill. The trees were generally about six years growth, and consequently at that age when the yield should be best, yet the crop was by no means good, while the size and appearance of the trees was unfavorable.

Whether the nature of the soil or the manner of planting may be the cause of the failure, I could form no definite opinion.

Immediately at the villa of Xiririca a field of coffee, with fifteen thousand trees, belonging to Senor João Franco, gave a much more encouraging prospect for the culture of coffee.

These trees are for the most part four years old, and while larger and healthy, they were loaded heavily with fruit, presenting by far the most favorable aspect of any trees of the same age that have been seen anywhere.

Here seems also to be an exception in the growth of the coffee tree upon the level plain near the river, and although the bluff is high, so that there is never an overflow of this land, yet it is what is usually denominated as bottom land with us.

It has been alleged that in this whole region of country, the coffee plant does not bear but a few years, when it declines, or even dies.

But in the ground adjoining these trees, some antiquated trees, supposed to be fifty years old, are still standing, without any special indication of decay, and I have seen elsewhere very old trees bearing fruit.

There seems nothing in the nature of the soil, or the character of the climate throughout this region, to preclude the proper growth of coffee.

On our route to-day several fields of corn were passed, which presented a fine prospect for a yield, and especially did the crops of corn look well near the road as we approached the villa. I am not fully prepared to give an opinion as to the result, from simply seeing a vigorous stalk, before the ears are formed, but enough of the crop is now earing to afford a guarantee of a good yield, and with improved culture, corn will most assuredly turn out well.

The road leading into the villa from the lands previously visited had been reached by us before, some four miles from the villa, and now the exploration of it was continued.

The route upon which the road is located is very favorable for the construction of a good wagon-road, and by this line of communication the products of the lands belonging to the tracts of Aborbora and Braço de Gado could readily be brought to the villa of Xiririca for shipment.

There are lands belonging to the public domain in close proximity to these private lands, of which I have a very favorable report from Captain Buhlaw, formerly an officer of the engineer department in the Confederate service, and now employed by the Brazilian government to survey these lands. In connection with a portion of this territory first examined, and lying nearest the river, I expect to effect a provisional arrangement with the government of Brazil for such an extent of public land as will accommodate those families who look to me for a selection.

These private lands lie almost parallel with the course of the river, at a distance of from four to six miles from it, and their products may all reach this navigable stream either at Xiririca or Caiacauga; while those located higher up, and extending to the Ribeira de Ignape, have a direct shipment by canoes. The latter may deposit their cargoes at Xiririca for the steamboat, or make the trips entire to Ignape, as is done at present by many of the planters.

There are other private lands which may be secured, of similar quality to those described, and so situated as to communicate readily with the Rio Jacupiranga, which is navigable with the largest size of canoes into the lower part of the Ribeira de Ignape.

The largest portion of these lands being owned by Senor Miguel Antonio Jorge, he proposes, if it is desirable, to arrange with other parties for the transfer of these lands, so as to bring all into one compact body, which would enable our people to divide this territory more advantageously among themselves, and to exclude those who might not be desirable neighbors.

A paper has been received from this gentleman, in which the price of his land is fixed at eighty-eight cents per acre, the houses with straw covering going with the land, while those with tile roofs are to be valued separately. It is specified that the payments be made in three equal instalments, at the end of the third, fourth and fifth years from the date of the purchase, and the whole without interest.

Should any one desire to anticipate the time fixed for payment, a discount of six per cent. per annum for such years as the amount was to remain unpaid will be allowed upon receiving the payment. It is also stated that his large fazenda, containing about one square league of land, located immediately upon the banks of the Ribeira de Ignape, will be sold if it is desired. This place is known as Ponto-Grosso, and is only forty miles above the town of Ignape, with every facility of machinery and buildings that would be requisite for a large business. A notice of it will be seen under the record of the 10th inst. The price fixed for this place is ten thousand (10,000) dollars, with the same time and conditions as specified for the other lands.

There is, likewise, another place immediately upon the river some fifteen miles above this fazenda, where cattle are at present reared, and, though not in cultivation, presents an elevated regular outline with indications of fertility. This tract of land has a front on the water of perhaps three-fourths of a mile, and a depth of two miles, yet the exact measurements of this, as most of the land in this region of country, have not been as yet ascertained. If Ponto-Grosso should be sold this would likewise be disposed of, but not otherwise, as it is a stopping place in passing from Caiacauga to the above-named fazenda.

As there are no cotton-gins introduced along this river, and a considerable amount of cotton now planted, Ponto-Grosso would be a favorable location for an extensive ginning establishment, or even for a cotton factory.

SATURDAY, _January 20, 1866_.

My friends of Caiacauga having treated me throughout my sojourn here with the greatest possible kindness, Senor Miguel and his very accomplished wife, Donna Maria, walked with me to the canoe-landing this morning, to give me their best wishes upon leaving their house. The noble hospitality of these people exceeds any thing I ever expected to realize among strangers, and, apart from any interested motive, I believe it affords them a satisfaction to contribute to the enjoyment of a guest.

It being arranged that my young friend, Senor Guilherme, would accompany me, we embarked at 11 o’clock A. M. with two sturdy negro fellows to paddle us down the river; and making a pleasant voyage, we reached Ponto-Grosso at 6½ o’clock P. M.

An ample stock of provisions had been supplied by my hostess for the entire trip to Ignape, consisting of chickens, fried fish, boiled rice, excellent bread, farina, bananas, figs, and pine-apples. In addition to these, we were supplied with a kind of beefsteak, enveloped in eggs and fried, so as to afford a most palatable dish. Having partaken freely of our stores on the way, a cup of coffee was all that I cared to take upon arrival, though Senor Guilherme insisted upon having a warm supper prepared.

Previous to visiting this region of country, nothing could be learned definitely in regard to its adaptation to the growth of the staple commodities, corn, cotton, and coffee; but my observations lead to the conclusion that each of them may be produced here advantageously.

Corn has been heretofore one of the principal articles of export to Santos and Rio de Janeiro; and, in the form of big hominy, is used to a considerable extent in the country. But corn bread is not known here, though the farina is frequently made when that of the mandioca is not at hand. The white flint corn is the only kind which is planted, and though the ears are not large, it seems to be a sound, good grain.

The common white corn is said to be much more liable to injury from weevils than this hard variety; and the yellow or red corn is not found so marketable in the form of big hominy, which is dried and shipped in large quantities. A change of seed and improved culture would doubtless secure better results in the growth of corn.

Cotton has been grown in this region by a few persons for several years, with results that are conclusive as to the favorable yield, and yet systematic culture is requisite to test fully the quality and quantity that may be produced in these river lands. Should the improved appliances and the skilled labor of the Southern States be applied to the culture of cotton here, I am satisfied the yield will exceed that of the lands in the United States; and it is likely that the amount of cotton grown in Brazil within a few years will affect very much the markets of the world. The labor of production is materially lessened by its continuous growth from the same stalk, which is annually cut off and yields again full crops.

Coffee has been seen here in lands of various kinds, and of all ages, presenting the most favorable indications of an abundant yield. The coffee produced in former years presents also the characteristics of a good, sound grain; and I am informed that the average yield of trees equals what was stated elsewhere to be a full crop on the best lands.

Several patches of coffee trees have been seen that did not afford a prospect of good results; and it is evident that a selection of location is a matter of moment here, as it is found to be even in the districts where coffee is most successfully cultivated.

The same kind of discrimination is necessary in determining what localities are suited to the growth of other articles, and a neglect of such precautions leads to a failure in the crop of either.

Rice is recognized as a certain and prolific product of all this region, but more especially of the lower section where lands become flat and moist. Mandioca yields abundantly.

Beans, which are more prized in Brazil than any other provision crop, are found to yield well in the lands visited, and though some specimens of failure have been observed, this has, for the most part, been satisfactorily accounted for by planting out of season or other departure from good farming. An abundant crop of sugar-cane, oranges, bananas, figs, and grapes, with a most excellent quality of pine-apples, makes up a variety of products which renders this a desirable land for the settlement of those who seek a home in Brazil.

SUNDAY, _January 21, 1866_.

Rising before day my young friend had all our baggage deposited in the canoe, and fresh eggs, with hot coffee and bread were in readiness when I was summoned from my bed. Partaking of these “fresh eggs,” etc., we resumed our voyage down the river, and I found this was not to be regarded as breakfast, but with the addition of two entire chickens to our supplies for the trip, we breakfasted at 9 o’clock A. M., and dined at 4 o’clock P. M. on the water.

We had as fellow-passenger a young porcupine, (ouriço,) that one of the negroes was taking down to sell as a pet; and finding that he was testing the quality of our figs, the negro guardian was called upon to secure the ugly little varmint at one end of the canoe.

We passed during the forenoon the mouths of the Rio Jacupiranga and the Rio Paricoera, on the latter of which I was told there are quite a number of inhabitants. Shortly after mid-day we passed through a canal, or cut through a neck of land, about one mile in length, which saved us four miles in the natural course of the river. The difference of level in the Ribeira is so slight at the entrance and outlet of this artificial communication, that the current through it is feeble, and instead of washing out it is gradually filling up from the repeated rises of the river, and our canoe had great difficulty in passing. The negroes labored hard, and one of them got out several times to push the canoe through the mud; but they worked with a good will, under the promise of a drink of rum at the close. Both had previously taken off their shirts, and with the confined air of this narrow channel, the mosquitoes, and the hard pulling, their bodies and arms were covered with perspiration before reaching the open water of the river. After getting their drink, and resting a short time, they proceeded as usual again.

Another canal was encountered at no great distance, cutting off another bend of the river, but it was much shorter, and there was no difficulty in the passage. On approaching the city of Ignape there is a very large artificial channel, in which a small steamboat passes; and being very straight, with the water running in the direction we came, it made a very pleasant trip of over a mile, to the immediate precincts of the city bridge.

We stopped with the brother of my young friend, Senor Dom Miguel Jorge Montinegro, who is keeping house in bachelor style, and places his establishment at my disposal in a way that relieves me of all embarrassment.

In descending the Ribeira it was observed that the corn did not present so good an appearance as it had done above, and in most places the banks were very low, so that the general surface of the land must be submerged in the floods of the river. When approaching the city the water spreads out into various channels, over an extensive area, again bringing up the resemblance to the Mississippi river near its mouth.

The tainha, a fine fish which frequents these waters at this season, was seen leaping up into the air to a distance of three feet.

MONDAY, _January 22, 1866_.

Having met the Rev. Ballard Smith Dunn, of Louisiana, at the hotel last evening, we found many topics of interest in rehearsing what had been seen by each of us in this country, and have spent this day together. He is acting in behalf of a number of families who desire to be informed in regard to Brazil, and has visited a portion of the provinces of Rio de Janeiro and Esperitos de Santos. He was favorably impressed with the inhabitants, and found some fine lands, yet did not conclude that it was desirable to locate in that region. He is now investigating the lands upon the tributaries of the Ribeira, and considers the soil adjacent to the waters of the Rio Jacupiranga of excellent quality, with a very promising prospect for crops of corn in most parts. In passing through, from the colony of Cananea, he reports that very fertile lands were seen, and he hopes to find in this region a desirable location for his friends. He will ascend the Rio Paricoera, and also the Rio Inquia; which latter affords an encouraging field for examination, as it is likely to be the line of communication with the great iron-works of Epanema. If he should recommend some portion of this territory for a settlement of people from the Southern States, it would strengthen very much my conviction of the advantages likely to accrue from a location in the vicinity of Xiririca, as it is extremely desirable that our people should be as far as practicable associated together.

TUESDAY, _January 23, 1866_.

Being detained to-day in Ignape, awaiting the arrival of the steamer, to proceed to Cananea, I may note some points connected with this port of entry. It is located upon a low flat point of land, with a rugged mountain ridge rising up at a short distance from it, and the whole is surrounded by water. With a low land extending up from the city, along the Ribeira for a considerable distance, it is not a matter of surprise that the place is reported to be unhealthy, and recently there has been a very serious epidemic, bloody flux, prevailing, attended with considerable fatality, but has now ceased.

There is a very large church in the process of completion, at a central point of the buildings in the place; and the abandoned walls of an immense jail that was supposed to be in demand some years ago, but the improved morals of the population, or the want of resources, induced them to leave it unfinished. There are but few houses of two stories, conforming to the type of most of the interior towns in having one-story buildings.

The general appearance of the population does not give a favorable impression of their physical stamina, or their intellectual status, yet I have met several gentlemen of refinement and cleverness, among whom I may especially mention Dom Antonio Joaquim Rodrigues, Juiz de Direita, and my young friend Dom Miguel Jorge Montinegro, who holds the position corresponding to our District Attorney, or Solicitor for the State. The latter speaks some English, and we got on very pleasantly, in his snug bachelor’s retreat, during my stay.

WEDNESDAY, _January 24, 1865_.

Leaving Ignape during the forenoon, in the Dom Affonso, we steamed along the inland sea, known as Mare Pequeno, and really the Bay of Venice cannot present a scene of more simple beauty than this placid sheet of water.

Several cozy-looking dwellings are located very near the margin, and the borders are fringed with green foliage, while here and there an islet is slightly elevated above the surface, and to complete the picture, water-fowls of various plumage are seen either resting upon the water or flying around with evident surprise at the presence of our little intruder.

In the course of the afternoon a heavy rain drove us from the deck into the cabin, and as the shades of evening were closing around us, the steamer reached the villa of Cananea.

Shortly after anchoring, Senor E. H. Street came aboard, and took me ashore to spend the night. We called upon Captain Buhlaw and lady, and also Mr. Hanson and lady, living in the same house. They are favorably impressed with the suitableness of the country for their future residence; and arrangements are already completed by those two gentlemen, for the location of a saw-mill upon the river Guarahu, five miles above its confluence with the Rio Jacupiranga, which proceeds thence thirty miles into the Ribeira de Ignape.

We took tea with these Southern people, and while sitting in that little social group, unfettered by any political domination, my thoughts turned anxiously to the fate of those who remained in the South.

THURSDAY, _January 25, 1866_.

We breakfasted with our Southern friends, and relished it the more for being prepared by the hands of the ladies. Mrs. Hanson is quite a young woman with one child, and seems prepared to take life as she may find it, saying that she only wants now to get a place fixed where she could have her own garden, and raise her own poultry, to feel entirely independent.

Mrs. Buhlaw does not seem to adapt herself so readily to this border style of living, yet she is cheerful, and hopeful of the future.

These families are sojourning only temporarily here, until arrangements for their accommodation are completed at some distance in the country.

The villa of Cananea is one of the oldest settlements in Brazil, the fleet of Martin Affonso de Sonza having landed at this place, August 12, 1531, and placed upon the island of Abrigo, at an elevated point known as Morro São Joas, two stone pillars, which are still to be seen.