Chapter XIV: Mexico

It would require many years of study to present an adequate idea of the progress and enterprise that exist in the republic, and each state has contributed its share toward the rapid advancement that has marked the conditions within the past fifteen years.

The State of Mexico is one of the most important in the republic. It is rich in mineral resources and picturesque in scenery. The people of this state are active and ambitious.

Many extensive tracts of territory have been shorn from the empire which was granted to Cortés as his reward for the conquest. Two other whole states, Hidalgo and Morelos, were created out of Mexico and Guerrero and the Federal District have also had parts of this state added to them. Nearly ten thousand square miles are left, and upon this territory live more than a million industrious people, many of whom are of Indian descent. For purposes of government it is divided into fifteen districts but Nature has divided the state by means of mountain ranges into three almost distinct territories. The Valley of Mexico, which extends into the Federal District is paralleled to the west by the Valley of Toluca, in which the capital of the state, bearing the same name, is situated. The third district comprises the slope southwest of the main range toward the lowlands of Guerrero.

The soft named and beautiful capital of this interesting state nestles at the foot of snow-crowned mountains, one of them the extinct volcano from which it is named, whose peak looks silently down with the calm of centuries upon this city of restless progress, as the still ages might look down upon the on-rushing to-day. Her wide and well-paved streets, her spacious plazas and shaded squares, the imposing buildings, some gray with centuries, some new with the modern spirit of the day, combined with the delightful situation and the grandeur of the surrounding scenery, make the city one of surpassing interest and beauty. Modern institutions devoted to education, progress, charity and humanity have given Toluca the well-deserved reputation of being one of the finest and best governed cities.

In the Valley of Mexico, which averages throughout the state the same altitude as Mexico City, the principal pursuits are farming, cattle raising, and manufacturing. The numerous small towns are reached by branches of the national railroad system. Equally well provided with transportation facilities are the towns in the Toluca Valley. The average altitude here is above eight thousand feet, a thousand higher than the Valley of Mexico, and the temperature is proportionally lower. The air is wonderfully pure and the sanitary conditions exceptionally good.

Toluca is only forty-five miles from Mexico City but, owing to the intervening mountains, the journey occupies three hours. Here, almost at the base of an extinct volcano, called the “White Mountain” by the Spaniards, Cortés set up the headquarters of his seigniory. The city to-day is one of the most pleasing in Mexico, with a large and intelligent population and contains many buildings of interest. It is built on both banks of the Xicualtenco River which is parallel to the main thoroughfares. The streets are for the most part straight and are always kept clean. The public squares and gardens are adorned with fine monuments. There are many delightful spots and interesting places found throughout the State of Mexico. Lofty peaks and deep barrancas, broad meadows and narrow vales, inaccessible height and cultivated fields succeed one another in delightful variety. The beauty of the scenery is indescribable, now and then through the arched forest trees the snowy volcanoes with their distant domes and the silvery lakes of the Valley of Mexico greet the vision.

The ruins of an old Carmelite Convent standing on the slope of a hill are surrounded by noble forests of pine and oak and cedar--long and lofty forest-aisles, where the monks of former days wandered in peaceful meditation. Some poor Indians live among the ruins and possess the undisputed sovereignty of the woods. It is said that a benighted traveler who had lost his way in these solitudes and was miraculously saved from dying of cold, founded this rich convent of Carmelite Monks, in gratitude for his deliverance, expressing his desire that all travelers that passed that way should receive hospitality from the convent. Certainly no place more fitted for devotion could have been selected than this mountain retreat.

The way to Lerma is through a massive stone gateway from which the gates were removed long ago. The streets are broad but straggling, the houses comfortable rather than grand or even elegant and the many eucalyptus trees planted around the picturesque adobe and stone church date back to the time of Maximilian. Across the way from the church is an old grave-yard which is indisputably ancient, as the graves of the Spanish conquerors, nine in number, are marked with limestone slabs dated over four centuries ago. It is a custom among the Mexican Indians to sell pebbles from these graves to tourists who are always eager to carry away souvenirs from a spot of historical renown.

High in mid-air the climate of the State of Mexico leaves nothing to be desired by those to whom pure air without clean cutting winds, bright sun that does not scorch, and abundance of pure water melted from the eternal glistening snows, are indispensable. It is such that brings contentment and peace the year around, without undue lassitude at any time. Its variety permits the production of all classes of crops; wheat, Indian corn, and other cereals grow in abundant harvests in the valleys of Toluca, Iztlahuaca, Tenango, and Tezcoco, while sugar cane, coffee, and other tropical products grow in the districts of Temascaltepec, Tenancingo and other southern districts. The forest products are remarkable for their diversity and richness.

The raising of cattle is one of the principal resources of this state, and is increasing rapidly each year. The annual product is exceedingly great, but pastoral life is giving way to more modern methods of existence. The railroads going through these vast plains around and among these lofty mountains are doing away with the primitive conditions that have existed.

Toluca, the capital of the State, is united to Mexico City by the Mexican National Railway which traverses a most picturesque route all the way to San Luis Potosí. All the railways which centre in the metropolis cross the state giving it ready exportations for all its products. The Mexican National route also gives communication northward with the rest of the world.

Practically all of the towns in the two valleys are lighted by electricity generated from hydraulic sources. In Tenancingo is the plant of the Toluca Electric Light and Power Company, which furnishes light and power to the home town, to Tenango, Calimaya, Tienguistenco and Toluca. In Tenancingo a local stream runs the big cotton spinning and weaving plant of La Guadalupe. In Sultepec water runs the smelter of La Concepcion, lights a district, supplies power to the mines and other reduction plants and has five hundred horse-power for the machinery of the Toluca Brewery. Mills at Calimaya, San Ildefonso and numerous other points making cotton cloth, woollen goods and paper all get their power from similar sources. Besides having plenty of water power, an abundance of labor, fertile farms and pastures, the two valleys are also rich in mineral wealth. Some of the most beautiful marble found in the world is quarried here and the mining industry is very much developed. There are mines producing gold, silver, lead and quicksilver. The best known of these are El Oro and Esperanza, whose British and American owners are quite frank in making their gains public.

In the Sultepec district is another great producer, “La Quimica,” owned by Germans who are more reticent but who are known to ship a great amount of bullion. Besides these there is a host of minor shipping mines and the possibilities of a great range of country which has not been thoroughly prospected, notwithstanding the fact that the mines of this state have been worked for hundreds of years. Many of the mines now yielding rich ores are those once worked by primitive processes and were deserted because they were thought not to be worth the trouble. Modern crushing machinery, smelters, and chemical reduction works find a rich profit in these mines.

In the mines of Temascaltepec and Zacualpam, as in those of Oro, the profits are large; gold, silver, lead, iron, and copper being obtained in large quantities. The supply of sulphur from the great snow-capped mountain, Popocatepetl, is enormous. There is in this district coal of excellent quality and zinc is found in the form of blendes, accompanied by silver ore. The mining activity in this state is increasing every year, the Tejupilco district is being steadily developed and the Sultepec district, eighty kilometres southwest from Toluca is the centre of an extensive metalliferous zone running from Angangueo to Taxco, both famous mining camps. There are many veins in exploitation though some of them remain to be worked. Among these are: El Cobre, Maravillas, Laura, La Providencia, Alejo, La Soledad, San Luis and others. In all these it is observed that the richness of the vein gives great promise although the prospectors are very reticent concerning their yieldings.

Besides having the mineral wealth itself, this state also is particularly well provided with the means of uncovering its buried riches. There is an abundance of lumber for timbering shafts, of water power to run hoisting and crushing machinery, and of the most docile labor, which is still cheap, though the competition of mills is gradually raising the scale of compensation.

The third great natural section of the state drops in terraces in the southwest from an altitude of a mile and a half almost to sea level. On the upper ranges, as in the valleys of Toluca and Mexico, the crops are those of the temperate zone, corn predominating, and there is also much cattle raising. As the slopes fall, however, the natural products verge into the tropical: sugar, coffee, cotton, rubber and the citrous fruits abound.

The Indian population of the state is a peaceful, law abiding people understanding and speaking Spanish and having entirely forgotten their primitive tongues. They do not mix in political matters but manifest a great interest in education, for which reason the governor of the state has insisted on plenty of schools being built in the districts, to which these Indians, in most cases, gladly contribute their personal labor.

Toluca lies in the centre of the fertile plains west of the Sierra Madre. It is one of the cleanest cities in the country. The citizens are intelligent and well educated and their school system is of the highest standard. There is a splendid Girls’ and Boys’ Normal School of Arts and Trades, largely for the purpose of elevating the ignorant and inferior classes. In this school are many of the Mazahuatl, Otoli, and Aztec indigenes, whose ambition is to become teachers in their respective villages.

The literary institute of Toluca has been reorganized as the Scientific and Literary Institute of the State of Mexico. Public charities are also well organized. There is a general hospital in the city and local hospitals in each of the cities of Sultepec, Jilotepec, Tlalnepantla, Tezcoco, Valle de Bravo and all the small villages and mining districts. There are asylums for boys and girls and education is compulsory.

The penitentiary is a spacious and sanitary institution where all the machinery is run by steam power and the establishment lighted by electricity. The object of this institution is the reformation of the criminal and the abolition of the death penalty. Humanitarian ideas are evident at all stages of one’s progress through this model prison. Each prisoner has his hour for instruction and the classes run from primary to the higher standard according to the knowledge of the prisoner, and by this system he is able to earn an honest livelihood by handicraft when he is liberated.

Industrially the city is very well advanced. There are woollen mills which produce handsome cloths. In this country industry has made such rapid strides that it is fast becoming a manufacturing centre. Most of the factories of the state are located near water powers, notably in the capital is the site of one of the largest breweries in Mexico.

Most of the public buildings are of comparatively recent construction. The Palace of the Government, though it occupies the site of one built by Martin Cortés, son of the Conqueror, was not erected till 1872. It faces the Garden of the Martyrs. In its main hall is a collection of portraits of the early Governors of the State. The public offices are elegant and commodious and the reception room is magnificent in every detail. Other handsome buildings are the City Hall, the Maternity Hospital, Schools of Law, School of Arts and Crafts, and the Normal School, all of which are modern and beautifully constructed. The Public Library, containing many thousands of volumes, is also rich in original manuscript archives, and is much consulted by historians of the earlier periods of Mexico. The public market is of late construction and is one of the finest and most sanitary in the republic. Here all classes of goods are sold, from the products of the country, pottery and meats to the cloth that is woven in the mills, and the most picturesque sight that one can imagine is the Indians in their native costumes squatting in the market square, offering their goods. It is here that one sees the people face to face in their native dress, and receives valuable impressions of their customs and the products of the country.

The Parochial Church dates back to the days of the Conquest. It was restored and enlarged in 1585. There are a number of other old churches, some of very large size, all noted for their beautiful paintings, their altars, and rich tapestries, one of which has a famous chime of bells and a very large organ. The public monuments are very notable. There are two of Hidalgo, one of Columbus and many others. In almost every park there are evidences of patriotic feeling, either a fountain dedicated to some hero or a tablet inscribed to the Martyrs of the War of Independence.

The beautiful alameda, the rendezvous for the élite of the city on fête days and on Sundays is one of the most perfect parks in the republic. It is the result of the strenuous efforts of all the public officials to make the State of Mexico famous for its advancement and improvement. In this beautiful display of verdure, drive, and lakelets, worthy features have been added to the well-known beauty of Toluca. Entering this lovely park by wide arched gateways one is confronted by a masterpiece of art and industry. Swans gliding in the waters of the lakes curve their long necks to greet the visitor; deer already tamed by young children come forward sniffing a glad welcome, and on days of fiesta gather lovely señoritas, clad in delicate gowns, gay parasols, colors, everything pertaining to gladness and beauty. There one has the opportunity of studying a phase of life among the young folks in this vast country of beautiful customs. The women of this country are gentle, beautiful, tender, loving mothers, gracious and gifted, devoted to their husbands, and make their home-life all that is to be desired.

In 1519, Cortés found the people of Toluca the most prosperous and advanced of the subjects of Montezuma. From the deposits of precious stones in Toluca the Spanish had a splendid revenue and the mountain sides yielded emeralds, sapphires and garnets for the markets of Europe. Near the city may be seen the stone foundations laid for the structure of a home which the Conqueror began for the comfort of his old and wounded soldiers. This plan was not carried further on account of the changes in the fortune of this ambitious man. There is a splendid automobile road which leads from Mexico City to Toluca and it is very popular on account of the beautiful scenery. Many tourists find this a pleasing trip to make. Leaving the capital, one passes Chapultepec and all the outlying villages of the Valley of Mexico. Old temples rise majestically before the traveler and the swift ride up the Sierra Madre over cañons on the mountain crest looking down hundreds of feet into the valleys one has a vision of Toluca that can hardly be described. In going there from Mexico City, the way leads down the beautiful Paseo de la Reforma and takes one through Tacubaya and over a great mountain wall. The climbing begins to get very steep especially after leaving the pine belt. The fir trees in this region resemble the hemlock spruce but have a different arrangement of the needles. Polypodium ferns grow in tufts on every hand and cardinal flowers abound. Scarlet and blue tanagers fly about everywhere. There are also sparrow hawks even more beautiful in plumage; doves unusually brilliant in color and parrots of every hue and variety. On the crest of the mountain that divides the country of the Tolucans from the City of Mexico the character of the vegetation suddenly and marvelously changes. Here in the same altitude, but facing a warmer sun and milder winds, are forests of tropical trees. Mahogany and tangerine orange trees are seen and the ground is green with the grazing plant known as _alfilerea_. Half way down the mountain range is a wide plateau, and about half a mile from it, is the historic field, Las Cruces. The spot is marked by an obelisk, about thirty feet high made of limestone set upon a heavy foundation of concrete. This is the scene of the first real victory of the Mexicans over the Spaniards in the war of 1810. It was here that the great patriot Hidalgo with his band of followers drove back the royalist troops with heavy loss. It was this great victory that gave the Mexicans self-confidence and proved to them that they might, under proper conditions, defeat the well-trained and completely armed soldiers of the Spanish viceroys.

On the same plateau is the old town of Las Cruces. The population is very small and its livelihood is derived entirely from the sale of toys, silver filigree work and beautifully polished woods of the mountain forests. Leaving Las Cruces the soil becomes well-watered and very fertile. Hundreds of farmers at their work in their fields of alfalfa, barley and maguey, and laborers in orchards of olives, prunes and native fruits, give life to the country. The peak of Toluca is more than sixteen thousand feet high but is not snow covered. There is an extensive snow field on its summit but this is hidden from view. The wind blows fine jets from the hidden snow field and this gives the mountain the appearance of smoking. In the early days of Montezuma the Aztecs regarded Toluca as having a supernatural power and many stories told of spirits hovering over the people lend attractive legends to the folklore. On the plains, the Lerma River, which is one of the great waters of Mexico, flows like a ribbon of silver toward Lake Chapala, from this it runs north and taking the name of Rio Grande de Santiago rolls onward to the Pacific Ocean, into which it flows near San Blas. The City of Lerma is on the rocky eminence, and the bell tower and dome of its famous church are very conspicuous, gleaming in the air. The whole plain rises gently from the marsh land at the foot of the hills and sweeps up to the base of the great mountain range of which the peak of Toluca is the culmination. Far as the eye can reach the soil is cultivated and gives evidence of lavish care. The variegated coloring of the fields planted in different varieties of grains, gives it the appearance of a mammoth checker-board. Everywhere are big villages or imposing haciendas. One of these, perched upon the last slope of the hillside, might have been taken bodily from one of the Italian cantons of Switzerland.

In the outskirts of Toluca are two elaborate shrines where, often, one may see a group of farmers and laborers who have stopped on their way home to offer prayer. This is not confined to the class of Indians, for often a rich haciendado is seen passing on his horse to oversee his workmen, stopping there, too, to offer his prayers of thanksgiving.

The little village of Otumba, about thirty miles from Mexico, was the scene of one of Cortés’s greatest battles. Chalco is a little Indian town, and has great historical value. The Chalcas were a determined enemy of the Aztecs, and only after struggles, in which they were notably brave and daring, were they defeated by the combined forces of the armies of Mexico and Atzcapotzalco. They afterward became a part of the Aztec confederacy. The land of Chalco is one of the most productive parts of Mexico, as what was once a great lake is now the most fertile land that exists in the valley.

The Governor of the State, Brigadier-general Fernando Gonzalez, is the son of an illustrious father, Manuel Gonzalez, who is known to history as one of the great presidents of Mexico. Governor Gonzalez has a brilliant record of thirty-two years of splendid service to his country, and the people of the State of Mexico, recognize in him an able and enthusiastic ruler. He is progressive, strong and able to handle affairs pertaining to the welfare of his State, and universal satisfaction is felt at his continuing in office a second term. No governor has ever had the ovation he received on the occasion of his re-election. Under his administration the State has greatly prospered and he maintains the strictest discipline among the rural guards, causes the roads to be kept in repair, and has greatly advanced the public school system in efficiency. The rural schools and those in the mining districts are the objects of his great interest and the reputation that this State enjoys for a splendid school system has been the result of the indefatigable labors of this distinguished man.

During the feast of the Centennial, the State of Mexico entered into the spirit of the celebration with great enthusiasm, entertainments being most brilliant.

The State of Mexico has earned her laurels as a well governed progressive State, probably as much as any State in the Union for she is better supplied with good roads, splendid railway communications, good service of telegraph and telephone lines, while the postal system is said to be the best regulated in the republic.

It is not difficult to understand why the State of Mexico is considered the most prosperous in the republic. It is one of the fertile States and occupies one of the most beautiful positions that can be seen in any part of the world. Nature is seen in almost all her phases; forest, green fields, snow-covered volcanoes, fertile lands and flowing rivers. What more superb setting can be found for so fair a jewel!