Chapter XXVIII: Jalisco

Jalisco borders on the Pacific Ocean as well as on the States of Sinaloa, Durango, Zacatecas, Guanajuato, Michoacán and Colima. In colonial times it was known as the kingdom of Nueva Galicia. There are many beautiful valleys and rivers, the largest of the latter, the Santiago, being six hundred miles long, rising in Lake Lerma in the State of Mexico and flowing through Lake Chapala, which is itself seventy miles long and from ten to thirty-five wide. Lake Sayula and Magdalena are smaller, but noted for their delicious fish.

The climate of Jalisco varies from generally cold in the higher and northern altitudes to delightfully mild in Guadalajara and hot on the west coast. The capital of Jalisco is Guadalajara, the population of which is estimated at two hundred thousand. The city is beautifully located and is constructed with elegant blocks of houses fronting on clean, wide and well-paved streets, and the people are noted for hospitality, culture and refinement, cheerfulness, politeness and frankness of character. It easily holds the position of the Queen City of the Republic. Its cathedral, while smaller than that of the metropolis, is much handsomer and of greater architectural merit. One of the theatres, Degollado, is one of the most beautiful in the country. A superb granite penitentiary, built and managed in accordance with the latest developments and improvements in that line, is greatly admired by visitors. An entire square is covered by the government palace, which, while somewhat resembling the national palace in the City of Mexico, is even more harmonious and elegant in its architecture.

Captain Juan de Oñate founded the Villa del Espiritu Santo de Guadalajara, which name was given to the town in compliment to Guzman, whose birthplace was the Spanish city of Guadalajara in New Castile. But the site then chosen proved undesirable, and a year or two later the town was removed to the Valley of Tlocatlan, not by the free choice of the townsfolk, but by the order of the Oidor, where, by a royal cedula of the emperor, Charles V., dated November 8, 1536, it was granted a coat of arms as a city. But this second site became the more distasteful the longer they remained in it, and especially because they were exposed to the frequent and cruel assaults of the wild Indians.

Commissioners were appointed to choose a site and decided upon a fair valley called Atamazac; and eight days later all the townsfolk went out together in good order and in that fair valley made their home. In this spirited fashion was the present City of Guadalajara founded in the year of our Lord, 1541.

In this city is the celebrated “Assumption” of Murillo, which belongs to the cathedral and hangs in the sacristy. Its authenticity is not a matter of doubt.

The foundation of this cathedral was laid in 1548. The present building was commenced in 1561, and the corner stone was laid in 1571, by Bishop Ayala. The building was completed in 1618. Its towers were thrown down by the earthquake of 1818, and the clock between the towers was badly injured. The interior is rich in decorations and paintings. The two towers of this cathedral are wholly unlike any others in Mexico. In one of them is the “campanito del correo” the little bell of the courier, which rang only in the announcement of some important event. Another bell called San Clemente, was in former times rung during a thunderstorm to ward off lightning. An important adjunct to the cathedral is the Sagrario, a comparatively new structure, commenced in 1808, and completed in 1843. The churches are numerous and interesting historically. In loyalty to the church, Guadalajara is second to no other city in Mexico and makes good its claim by works of charity and mercy.

One of the most famous of the institutions of Guadalajara is the Hospicio. The building is an imposing one of white stone, handsome and attractive, covering an entire square, and containing twenty-five patios or courts, with fountains, flowers, shrubs, palms and trees, from which echo the melodious reverberating songs of children and birds, which seem to touch the hearts of all visitors, and to embody almost a life in itself. This is not a hospital, as is popularly supposed, but a home for the poor of all ages, from the baby in the cradle to the aged nearing the grave. The institution is admirably managed under authority of the State of Jalisco. Children are taught all that may be learned in schools of the highest order, and as they grow older they learn some useful occupation in the higher arts and sciences. The product of their labor is offered for sale in support of the Hospicio and includes some of the most exquisite embroideries and laces, made by the girls.

The public square and jardines in Guadalajara are pretty and well-kept. Twice a week and on Sundays an excellent band discourses sweet music in the plaza, attracting a large crowd of people. There the best society and the prettiest young ladies are seen. By common consent the sexes and classes separate on the promenade. The inner or wider promenade is reserved for the better class. The gentlemen keep in line on one side and in one direction while the ladies do the same in an opposite direction, the two streams passing each other constantly.

The plaza is a beautiful garden surrounded by magnificent buildings. On one side is the government palace, on another, the cathedral, and on the other two sides are long rows of portales, with their graceful arches. Guadalajara is one of the brightest of Mexican cities and has many charms within its gates. The government building has a modern air that is pleasing; its stucco is colored a light gray, and its white trimmings are decidedly agreeable to the eye.

The American Club is the general meeting place for Americans of the city and vicinity. The Country Club, just organized, is composed of Americans and other foreigners, as well as a number of Mexicans. The French and German colonies in the city have their respective clubs.

There are two church congregations of Americans and English--the Union Church and St. Marks’ Episcopal Mission. The Methodists, Congregationalists and Baptists maintain mission schools and chapels.

The government building has an inscription of a Bible passage. “Nisi Dominus custodierit civitatem, frustra vigilat qui custodit eam.” “Except the Lord keep the city, the watchman waketh but in vain.”

In one of the principal squares is the monument commemorative of General Ramón Corona, a brave soldier, whose memory is loved by all true Mexicans, and who was assassinated by a lunatic in 1880.

The Chapala Hydro-Electric and Irrigation Company, which owns the water rights and franchises, is now installing new plants on the Santiago with a capacity of fifteen thousand horse-power to furnish additional current to Guadalajara and the mining districts in the northwestern part of Jalisco, and this will bring the total production of electrical energy of that company up to twenty-five thousand horse-power.

The city is equipped with a successful modern sanitary sewer system, constructed by Americans at an immense cost, and has an abundance of the purest mountain water, brought through a subterranean aqueduct from the Colomos range. Several artesian wells have been bored for auxiliary supply to the city system.

The new colonies that have been opened in this city are very beautiful and the houses are constructed in splendid style and the architecture is exceedingly fine. Many of the English and American residents have built mansions and the Country Club is one of the most exclusive clubs in the republic. Mr. Samuel E. Magill, the American Consul, is much appreciated in Guadalajara. Mexico glories in her watering places and pleasure resorts. Lake Chapala is the largest lake in the republic. The principal village on this little inland sea is Chapala, where there are some famous hot springs and a fine new hotel of modern equipment called the Ribera Castellanos. This resort is very convenient to Guadalajara. No more charming excursion for a lover of beautiful scenery can be found in all Mexico than around this beautiful lake. For water-fowl shooting during the fall and winter months and for sailing and bathing during the entire year, these shores are delightful. Most all the members of Mexican society find themselves there during Holy Week and other holidays. The President goes on his yearly hunting trip to these parts, accompanied by his son and some members of his cabinet and intimates. He is noted for his powers of endurance, often outstripping the others in his ardent quest for game.

San Pedro is the favorite suburb of Guadalajara where the famous pottery-ware is made. This celebrated pottery is known the world over.

This is a rich agricultural and fruit-growing country, producing large crops of wheat, corn and sugar, and the finest oranges that grow in the republic.

La Piedad, one of the quaint old places, has a population of some eight thousand. La Barca is a city of twelve thousand people, situated on the Lerma or Santiago River, near where it empties into Lake Chapala. Fifty miles west of La Barca and fifteen miles east of Guadalajara, at the station of El Castillo, a tramway conveys passengers to the famous Falls of Juanacatlan, justly called the “Niagara of Mexico.” The river at this point plunges over a precipice sixty-five feet in height to the rocks below, making a picture of grandeur and interest well worth seeing.

Sixteen miles beyond La Barca lies Ocotlan. This pretty place is on the River Sula, a short distance above its junction with the Lerma. The station is connected with the town by street cars, which run to the bridge just above the steamboat landing. Ocotlan is situated on a plain which slopes southward a few miles to the shore of the lake. With its pretty plaza, its beautiful church spire, its portales, and two bridges, Ocotlan is very picturesque.

Atequisa is in sight half a mile away on the left. Atequisa hacienda has miles of wheat-fields, hundreds of oxen and other animals and thousands of men at work on its farms or ranches. Here are the headquarters of the vast estate, storehouses, corrals, workmen’s homes, mills, hospitals, school houses and a church, besides the princely residence of the owner. There are other fine haciendas, and among those may be found the most cordial hospitality in the world. The life of a country gentleman here is that of a hermit, in the total absence of all society in the nearly unbroken solitude that surrounds him. For leagues and leagues there may be no habitation but his own, the nearest village may be distant half a day’s journey over an almost impassable road. But he is “monarch of all he surveys,” a king among his farm servants and Indian workmen. Nothing can exceed the independence of his position.

Capitalists who seek a sure and productive investment for their money should take into account not only the richness of the soil, the mildness of the climate and the thousand attractions offered by life in that zone, but also the assured importance of Guadalajara as a railway centre of first rank with facilities for transportation of its varied products rapidly, not only to the principal markets of the republic but also to those abroad, for which it will have seven or eight points of outlet.

One of these products that will seek speedy exportation will be the mineral wealth of Jalisco, which exists in great quantities and which possesses a richness of which there is now but little known.

There are more than two hundred and fifty mines, the greater number being of silver with some traces of gold, three or four of gold, some of copper, and others of quicksilver, iron, lead and other metals.

The city of Guadalajara has had for many years a mint in constant activity, coining silver and gold from the mines of Jalisco.

Mining in Jalisco is in its infancy and awaits only the energetic and decisive action of companies with sufficient capital to astonish the continent with the fabulous riches of its veins, many of them as yet untouched.

Guadalajara with its constant sunshine, its skies even bluer than those of far-famed Italy, and its mellow, genial warmth, is one of the most beautiful garden spots of the world.

The intellectual condition of Jalisco is up to the standard of modern times and lifts the people into a state above the ordinary. The schools are of the best, the State and the cities spending large sums of money on them, so that the primaries are being extended even to the distant ranches, while the secondary and professional schools rank among the best in Mexico. Jalisco’s lawyers have attained the highest reputation, her doctors command the respect of all, her engineers have attained national fame and her “Seminario de los Obispos” (Seminary of the Bishops) is known everywhere as having graduated some of the most notable of the Mexican clergy.