Chapter XXXIII: Yucatán

In 1517, Hernandez de Cordoba discovered the beautiful Peninsula of Yucatán.

Bathed by the waters of the Atlantic Ocean and the Gulf of Mexico and possessing throughout immense area lakes and beautiful scenery, it is one of the most picturesque States in the republic. Geographically considered, the Peninsula of Yucatán extends to the Isthmus of Tehuantepec. The natural condition and elements have made this territory a theme for many studies on account of the great interest that is taken in the various resources that are presented.

Lovers of art and history and students of archæology have been drawn toward Yucatán for over a century.

The scenery impresses one as being strangely unique. Back of the coast stretches a broad lagoon many miles in extent and varying in depth with the sea. Here the northern birds spend their winters. Beyond the lagoon, the bed of coral which composes the entire peninsula rises slightly above the sea level, presenting the appearance of a dry swamp. On the roads, which run parallel with the railways, patient oxen plod slowly along, their heads bowed under heavy yokes, hauling great loads of henequen in rude carts with wooden wheels.

The great industry of this State is the cultivation of hemp, which is a species of the cacti family known as “sisal.” The magnitude and importance of this business can scarcely be imagined. The hemp grows wild in great profusion and seems to thrive best on barren lots and desert sands or in very thin soil where nothing else could find its abode. A “henequen” plant attains its full perfection in seven years. A stem shoots out from the centre of it, the leaves gradually detach themselves in the form of an immense spear or “Spanish bayonet,” with sharp thorns along the edges, terminating in a strong needle-like point. A bale of henequen fibre represents the product of about seven thousand leaves. In most places the process of making the fibre by hand is discarded as unprofitable, and the stripping of the leaves is done with great machines driven with powerful steam engines. The scraper consists of a large wheel with strong blunt knives around its rim. The henequen leaves are pressed against this rim and by means of a lever worked by machinery the knives remove in an instant the pulp which covers the fibre. The pulp having been removed, the fibre is taken from the leaves in long strips, like very fine silk thread of a beautiful green tint. It is made into small bundles and placed in the sun to dry. In the packing house the dried hanks are put up into four-hundred pound bales by a cotton-press. It is then ready for market, where its value, like other commodities, varies.

On account of the present low price of henequen it is difficult to support the factories and meet the numberless expenses incurred during the long period of seven years until it reaches maturity and becomes commercially valuable. The farmers are now thinking about reducing the area of future plantations. They are also considering the cultivation of cotton, “pochote,” castor oil plant, and all the products indigenous to their climate.

A great interest is awakening in the manufacture of ropes, twines of all sizes and bagging of all description, to such an extent that the factory La Industrial has been manufacturing these articles for more than a year and selling them at such profit that the demand is greater than the supply. Had it not been for the excessively low price of hemp the farmers would not have awakened to the fact that the time had come for them to look for new cultures and develop new industries, and the fall in the price of henequen has deeply impressed the minds of the growers, with the result that many new industries will soon become established in this State.

Next in value to henequen comes the bromelia pita, locally known as “ixtle” the ancient Aztec name. From this the Mayas’ clothes are made: it formed the foundation of the beautiful feathered cloaks of Montezuma’s time. The ixtle furnishes the poorer classes with their garments and hammock-beds in which they are born and die, and their baskets and household utensils and paper are manufactured from the fibre. From the roots of the plant a favorite intoxicant is brewed; the juice of its bruised leaves is the best known remedy for wounds; its thorns are the Indian pins and needles. A few years ago some ixtle fibre was sent to England for experiment in the great cloth manufactories and from it some handkerchiefs were woven which have since figured in several expositions, to the astonishment of all beholders.

While the Mexican people are noted for their politeness and courtesy, the Yucatecas seem to have more than their share of delightful _simpatia_. The women are beautiful and cultured and in no part of the republic is the social element more remarkable than here. Merida is called “The White City” and has been famous for its brilliant carnival celebrations. At these times enthusiasm and animation reign supreme.

Merida was founded by Don Francisco de Montejo in 1542. The original home of its founder is still standing. It is located on the principal plaza and is an object of great interest. The entrance to this house is a wonderful specimen of antique carving.

The cathedral is one of the handsomest and largest in the republic and the many beautiful temples are most interesting to visit. Some fine old carvings of the time of the Spanish viceroys are seen in many of these churches.

The new Peon Contreras Theatre ranks in beauty with any building of its kind in the world. The splendid appointments of this theatre and its marble columns and corridors are a marvel to those who have seen it. It was built under the supervision of Señor Don J. Rafael de Regil, demonstrating splendid taste and judgment.

Many prominent buildings have been erected in late years which are a great credit to the city. The General Hospital, the Penitentiary, the Insane Asylum and all the city government buildings are modern structures equipped with every luxurious necessity. The Episcopal Palace is a specimen of antique architecture and is one of the largest in the republic. Merida has many benevolent societies and the public benefit is well guarded. Orphan asylums, correctional schools of arts and crafts, an asylum for beggars, and a maternity house.

Some of the finest hammocks in the world are made in Yucatán. They are hand woven of the sacci fibre and are of unusual size. This State is as famous for its hammocks as Switzerland is for its clocks. The finest come from the penitentiary at Merida.

The Paseo Montejo is one of the fashionable drives. On it are handsome residences, among which is the palatial home of General Francisco Canton.

The prehistoric race that peopled Yucatán and the wonderful monuments and ruins they left behind them have baffled explorers from all parts of the world and there are many theories advanced concerning the builders. The natives regard these decayed cities with superstitious awe, and they remain much in obscurity because few have braved the wilderness in order to explore them. The ancient knowledge of architecture is proved by these marvellous structures and amazing relics. The ruins of Chichen-Itza and Uxmal are accessible from Merida.

There are two agricultural chambers in Merida, “La Camara Agricula Nacional” and “La Camara Agricula de Yucatán,” which are doing great work in promoting the industries of the State. One of these recently had an exhibit demonstrating the wonderful possibilities of the henequen, and among the numerous articles were baskets, hammocks and cloth, three widely different articles. The fruit and vegetable display consisted of the products of the State.

A monthly magazine devoted to the interest of farming called _El Agricultor_, is published by the Camara Agricula.

In the Yucatán Museum there is an interesting collection of monoliths, statues, prints and other details of the old Maya architecture, utensils and personal ornaments of a primitive and mysterious race that inhabited the peninsula. Another museum which merits special notice is that of the late Bishop De Crescencio Carrillo y Ancona, who was the first director of the State Museum. Fine parks and public gardens help to add to its beauty: in one of these parks stands a splendid statue of General Manuel Zepeda Peraza, the great patriot of Yucatán.

Señor Don Augusto Peon is the mayor of the city and many reforms have been executed during his administration. New streets and avenues have been opened and schools have been established. He is noted for his philanthropy and the poor have found in him a good friend. His family is one of the most distinguished in the State and he is held in great admiration and respect.

Public education is given the most rigid attention. Among the most important schools are those of San Vicente de Paul, under the direction of Obras de la Ensenanza. These schools are conducted upon monthly subscription by those interested in the Christian education. In the scientific and religious instruction all the precepts of modern pedagogy are followed. The elementary schools for boys and girls are supported by the estate of the late Leandro Leon Ayala. These schools are divided into five branches with an inspector appointed for the supervision of each. The literary institute founded by General Peraza is under the personal direction of Señor Licenciado D. Olegario Molina, who is one of the distinguished statesmen of the republic. To this noted gentleman the State of Yucatán owes its wonderful growth within the last ten years. He has occupied many high official positions, having been governor of the State before assuming the cabinet office. He was the engineer who had charge of the construction of the first railroad that was built in the Peninsula, which connects the capital city with the port of Progreso.

This railroad was constructed with local capital and the entire enterprise was organized with great success. In the cultivation and development of the henequen industry, Señor Molina has been foremost in the enterprise. He is noted for entering into everything with enthusiasm and in the reconstruction of his State while he was governor, he adopted the famous system of his chief magistrate, General Diaz, of “less politics and much administration.” With perseverance, which is characteristic of this official, Señor Molina consecrated his attention to the irrigation and industry of the State, which are important factors in the national good, and during his administration agriculture assumed splendid results and the record that remains behind him is a monument to his greatness. The present governor is Señor D. Enrique Muñoz Aristegúi, who is progressive and enterprising and has followed closely the example set by his predecessors.

The United Railroads of Yucatán have eight hundred kilometres of various lines which extend to all important points of this State and to Campeche. This company was formed in 1902, being a merger of several independent lines, as follows: The railroad from Merida to Progreso with a branch to Izamal; from Merida to Valladolid with a branch to Progreso; the Peninsula Railroad; the railroad from Merida to Peto with a branch to Sotuta. The construction of the first railroad was organized by Señor José Rendon Peniche.

The principal points which these railroads touch are Valladolid, which is known as the Sultana of the East, and was at one time a city of much more importance than to-day; Tizimin, where the three kings, Magos, annually met; Motul, the next largest city of the State, and a centre of importance on account of the henequen industry; Izamal, another important industrial centre and famous for the pilgrimages to the Virgin de la Asuncion; Tekas and Peto, important cities of the sugar industry; Ticul, the centre of the corn region; Halacho, another point famous for its religious feasts. The only port in the State is Progreso. The Ward Line steamers touch this port and this company runs excursions from the port to Merida, giving the passengers a glimpse of this unique part of Mexico, returning to the steamer in time to continue their voyage.

Mr. W. P. Young, of the New York and Cuba Mail and Steamship Company, has formulated plans for excursions to Yucatán on a twenty-day tour to see the ruins and enjoy the wonders of a semi-tropical climate during the winter months. This is an excellent opportunity for the student or traveller.