Chapter XXXV: Customs

The characteristics of a country are always an interesting theme and it seems that Mexico is bountifully supplied with legends and traditions that lend to her all the charms of a poetic and romantic nation. Born in a land of natural wealth and beauty, breathing the balmy air and beholding the bright sunshine of this country, the Mexican must be by nature _allègre_ and alert to all the graces of living.

The customs of the people, like those of all rapidly developing nations, are fast changing and in a few years there will remain few habits and fashions to distinguish this country from any other land. At the same time, Mexico retains many charming characteristics that she will never lose. Her warm hospitality, the frank extension of a friendly hand, the open door of the home, the adoration and respect paid to her women and the love and reverence bestowed upon her heroes will always stamp the Mexican as exceedingly attractive.

In the home the life is sweet and supremely happy. Little children kiss their parent’s hands, the old folks the hands of their elders, and the benediction of the padre, who comes to pay a short call, is eagerly sought by old and young. In matters pertaining to religious education the Mexican child is reared in rigid form. He is taught to hold in reverence all the church feasts, and the precepts of the priest in charge of the parish are faithfully followed.

Carmen Day has been a great religious feast for six hundred years in the Catholic calendar. Hundreds of homes are annually made happy with visits and gifts to the Carmens, who are remembered by their friends. Since Madame Diaz has been the first lady in the land, Carmen Day has been more popular than ever, as it is the feast of her patron saint.

Every town in the republic has its plaza, which is always laid out with beautiful flowers and shrubs, with walks going around the square wide enough to permit many people passing back and forth. In the evenings and on Sundays the Municipal Bands render popular music and the young folks promenade for several hours. The young men take one direction and the señoritas the opposite, so they meet face to face at every turn. In this way the language of the eyes plays an important part. Sometimes a tiny note is slipped, sometimes a stolen word, by a bolder aspirant.

The architecture of the Mexican house, with its barred windows and well-guarded doors tends to incline the people to lead exclusive lives, and yet once within these massive portals the beauty and love of the home life are seen in many ways.

The custom of the master placing his house and everything in it at your disposal (_esta a la disposition de usted_) is very pleasing to note. You admire a ring, it is at your service; a horse is offered you; letters are dated from your house (_la casa de usted_). Some, from ignorance of the custom of these mere expressions of civility, often place their hosts in a dilemma. A charming American lady, wife of one of the great generals, once admired a handsome fan belonging to one of the ladies in the official circle and on being told it was hers accepted it with great delight, much to the consternation and embarrassment of the señora. She carried her treasure home, but later learned that the gracious proffer was a custom of the land and returned the fan with a diplomatic note.

The market places are a source of great wonder and interest. Here small tables and bits of straw matting are placed on all sides and upon these the men and women display their wares. Vegetables, fruits, and goods of all description are arranged in heaps, always with an eye to system and attractiveness. The people are sheltered from the intense rays of the sun by awnings of cloth or matting. They are all polite, and with their bright smiles easily gain customers.

Together with the vegetables or flowers are found fat, pretty babies with black eyes, and always sweet and charming. The flower-market is a place of enchantment, for the love of flowers is a strong trait of character in these people. Here are men and women arranging great bunches of exquisite blossoms with a delicacy of taste that is surprising.

One of the Easter customs is the hanging in effigy of Judas Iscariot, which is done everywhere in the country, from the large cities to the smallest hamlets. Mexicans attire themselves in black during Holy Week, and on the Saturday before Easter Day these grotesque figures of him who betrayed the Master are brought out everywhere and hanged and burned with all the contempt due to the betrayer.

Peculiar little rattles which make a clatter representing the breaking of the bones of Judas are sold on the streets on Good Friday.

On the twenty-first of August the Indians observe a feast in memory of the tortures to which Cuauhtemoc and his general were subjected by Cortés in an effort to secure information concerning the buried treasure.

The laws of Mexico provide for the welfare of the Indians in a liberal manner and the best means of improving their mental and moral development is occupying the attention of the leading educators of the country. A society has just been formed in Mexico City for the protection of the Indians. The question as to what should be the political responsibility of the primitive people, untrained in independent thought and action, is not easily disposed of, and blunders which have been committed by the most enlightened nations in this respect prove how important is this problem.

The Indian is still a child in mental and moral growth, but he is progressing under the benign influence of peace and security. Those who dwell in the mountainous districts have preserved in all their purity their ancient habits and primitive language.

In some districts, as in the region of the Sierra, they preserve their native dances, and during certain religious ceremonies they execute these dances in their temples before the most venerated images.

Many Mexican families are of noble lineage, dating back to the eight hundred years’ war with the Moors, when their ancestors were ennobled for gallantry of service to their kings. Some of the best families are very poor but conserve their dignity and position always.

Newer families of social distinction are descendants of successful soldiers who stood somewhat in the same relation to the old aristocracy as did the marshals and generals of Napoleon I. to the old French nobility. Descendants of presidents constitute another kind of aristocracy, in fact, service to the State in high office gives one’s family and descendants a claim on popular consideration and respect. There are many descendants of the Aztec monarchs living in other countries, but few in Mexico. One of the small number remaining is Coronel Prospero Cahuantzi, Governor of the Aztec State, Tlaxcala. He is a pure-blood Aztec Indian and speaks the language with a softness that is delightful.

The ancient marriage customs of Yucatán are unusual as well as interesting. From time immemorial the Maya women have worn a simple form of dress which they never vary. It consists of two pieces, a very full skirt falling to the ankles and a loose upper garment called huipil, joined under the arms, only it hangs in graceful folds after the manner of the Greek peplum. Cotton or linen is the material, always plain white, though trimmed with colored embroidery. The women load their necks and ears with beautiful hand-wrought filigree jewelry.

In almost every State there are certain dances and music typical of the people. In Yucatán there is a particular dance called the vaqueria. It is performed at the public fiestas by the mestizos dressed in exquisite costumes, brilliant in colored embroideries. The graceful dancers are inspired by music from a stringed orchestra of native performers, and their dainty feet move with a rhythm that is most fascinating.

Mexico owes much of its peculiar beauty to the religious fervor of her inhabitants. Everywhere white crosses gleam among the trees, in solitary paths, on mountain tops and at the openings of mines. Even the haystacks have crosses fashioned in a rude way upon them, and buildings in course of construction are never without the sign of the cross. Wherever the footsteps of man pass, on rude huts, or barren rocks, the emblem of the faith stands, and in every hamlet the temple of God arises in comparative splendor. The symbol of the cross, strange as it may appear, was known to the Mexican Indians before the coming of Cortés. There was a temple dedicated to the Holy Cross by the Toltecs in Cholula and near Tulancingo a rock stands, engraved with a cross and other hieroglyphs or signs. Among the faithful-looking old trees a church will be found, gray and ancient, always gleaming in the soft light, the insignia of the Christian faith. The Indian, plodding to the nearest village with his wares will stop for a few moments to mumble his prayers before a cross that stands at the roadside. Wherever a murder or an accident has occurred rude crosses are always planted; sometimes it is only the branch of a tree fashioned in a primitive way, but always a cross.