Chapter V: Preface (5)

Start counting time after meat is one-half hour in oven and allow twelve minutes to the pound for very rare, fifteen minutes for rare, eighteen minutes for medium and twenty for well done.

Baste the meat with the liquid in the pan every fifteen minutes. Do not add seasoning to the meat while cooking. It is a well-known fact that salt will cause the juices and flavoring of the meat to dissolve and therefore become lost. Season steaks and chops just before serving. Season roasts five minutes before removing from the oven. Always make the gravy after removing the meat from the pan.

NOTE.--Never dish meat on a cold platter. The contact of a cold dish with the hot meat will injure its delicate aroma.

In many portions of France and England chops and steaks are served upon platters set over a bowl of hot water or a special fuel that can be burned in a container that holds the platter. When serving a large steak always have a cover of metal or another hot dish turned over the meat to prevent it chilling.

CORRECT METHOD OF BOILING MEAT

Place the meat in a saucepan of boiling water and then keep the water boiling rapidly for five minutes after the meat is added. Then place the saucepan in a position where it will cook just below the boiling point for the required length of time. Constant and rapid boiling will cause the albumen in the meat to harden; therefore, no amount of cooking afterward will soften the fibre. It will only cause the meat to fall apart without being tender.

It is important to keep the saucepan closely covered. This will prevent the delicate aroma from evaporating.

Braising: Meat is placed in a hot saucepan and turned quickly and frequently. It is cooked in its own juices in a closely covered saucepan.

Steaming: Cooking meat by placing in steam bath or steamer.

Grilling: Cooking meat over a hot fire on a grill made for the purpose.

Broiling: A very hot fire is necessary for this mode of cooking meat. Only the choicest, tenderest, and most delicate cuts are suitable for cooking by this method. The strong heat instantly coagulates the albumen by searing it, thus retaining all its juices and flavor. That this method may be successful it is very necessary that the meat be turned every few minutes. This also insures it being cooked evenly.

Pan Broiling: This is another method of cooking the fine cuts of meat when it is not possible to broil them. Broiled meat is more healthful and also less wasteful than any other form of cooked meat.

TO PAN BROIL

Heat an iron frying pan red hot, then place in it the meat. Turn it constantly.

TIME FOR ROASTING MEAT IN GAS BROILER

Beef, eighteen minutes to the pound.

Lamb and mutton, twenty-one minutes to the pound.

Veal, twenty-five minutes to the pound.

Chicken or duck, eighteen minutes to the pound without filling and twenty-five minutes to the pound with filling.

Fish, fifteen minutes to the pound.

Au gratin dishes, meat pie and various vegetables may be cooked at the same time.

PORK

Pork should be sweet-smelling--the fat clear white and flesh good pinkish color. Loin for chops, crown roast.

BOILED PORK

Plunge pork in boiling water and cook, allowing twenty-five minutes to the pound.

TO ROAST LOIN

Wipe with damp cloth, pat in plenty of flour, place in a roasting pan, place in hot oven for thirty minutes. Now reduce heat to moderate and roast, allowing thirty minutes to the pound; baste with boiling water after meat is in oven one-half hour.

Fresh ham and shoulder may be roasted in same manner.

SPANISH KIDNEY STEW

Cut three pork kidneys in one-inch pieces, rejecting the tubes and fat, and then soak in warm water and one tablespoon of lemon juice for one hour. Drain, and then parboil and drain and blanch under cold water. Now return to saucepan and add just sufficient boiling water to cover. Cook until tender, and then add

One-half cupful of chopped onions,
Two red or green peppers, chopped fine,
One cupful of tomatoes,
One-half cup of cornstarch dissolved in
One-half cup of cold water.

Bring to boiling point and then add

One cupful of cooked beans,
One and one-half teaspoons of salt,
One-half teaspoon of paprika,
One-quarter teaspoon of thyme.

Heat to the boiling point and then serve.

BRAISED SWEETBREADS

Prepare sweetbreads as directed on Page 164 and then remove the tubes and fat and cut into slices. Place two tablespoons of butter in a saucepan and add the sweetbreads and one tablespoon of grated onions, one cup of mushrooms, toss gently until nicely browned and then lift on squares of toast and cover with supreme sauce.

SAUSAGE CAKES

One-quarter pound of pork sausage,
One-half pound of hamburg steak,
Four onions, minced fine,
Three-quarters cup of prepared bread,
Two teaspoonfuls of salt,
One teaspoon of paprika,
Three tablespoons of finely minced parsley.

Mix to thoroughly blend and then form into round sausages. Roll in flour and brown quickly, and then add

One-half cup of boiling water,
One cup of canned tomatoes.

Bring to the boiling point and cook for five minutes. Serve, lift the sausages on fried mush.

To prepare the bread: Soak stale bread in cold water until soft and then press very dry. Measure and then rub through a fine sieve to remove the lumps. All the above may be cooked in the fireless cooker or in casserole dishes.

MUTTON

Mutton is the dressed carcass of the full-grown sheep and is usually prime in animals from three to five years old. If any older than this it lacks flavor and is tough.

The cuts of mutton and of lamb are the same, namely: The meat is divided into fore and hind quarters and then cut into the neck, shoulder, rack, breast, loin and leg.

The shoulder and leg are used for roasting and may be boned and then filled and rolled. For choice rack, cut to the tenth rib as for the chops. Three ribs and the neck for stewing, meat pies, goulashes, etc. The loin for chops.

The French and English have methods of cutting and cooking mutton and lamb that made these cuts delicious.

CHOPS

French chops: Cut two ribs thick from the rack. English chops: Cut two inches thick from the loin, including the kidney.

TO COOK

Trim the chops free from excess fat and then baste with the juice of one lemon. Place in a broiler and cook for ten minutes, turning them frequently.

ENGLISH DRESSING FOR LAMB OR MUTTON CHOPS

One tablespoon of Worcestershire sauce,
Two tablespoons of salad oil,
One teaspoon of mustard,
One-half teaspoon of salt,
One-half teaspoon of paprika,
Juice of one-half lemon.

Blend well together and then spread lightly on both sides of the cooked chops. Serve on a hot platter without gravy, with spiced grape or currant jelly.

ROAST MUTTON

Trim to remove the excess fat and then dust with flour. Place on the rack in the baking pan. Place in a hot oven to brown for thirty minutes. Baste every ten minutes with boiling water. Cook the meat for eighteen minutes to the pound, not counting the first half hour in which the meat starts to cook. Drain off the fat before making the gravy.

Mutton and lamb chops may be used for frying purposes. It can be blended with equal amounts of ham, bacon, pork or beef fat. Save every bit of fat and use it for making soap. This fat makes a fine soft soap for scouring and cleaning.

CURRY OF MUTTON

Have the butcher cut the neck of mutton into cutlets and then wipe with a damp cloth and place in a saucepan, together with

Two medium sized onions,
One carrot, cut in dice.

Gently brown the meat before adding any water. When meat is browned add

Two cups of boiling water.

Cook until tender and then season and thicken the gravy slightly with cornstarch. Now add

One-half teaspoon of curry powder.

To serve, place a border of cooked noodles around the edge of a large platter and then lift the mutton curry in the centre and garnish with finely chopped parsley.

GOULASH

This is a characteristic dish of the Balkan states. It is made by cutting one-half pound of lean beef (shin) into one-inch thick blocks and three-quarters of a pound of veal cut into small pieces. Roll the meat in flour and then place in a stewing pan. Cover with boiling water and cover closely. Cook the meat until it is tender. Remove the lid and boil the liquid quickly to reduce. Now add:

One-half cup of thick sour cream,
One tablespoon of paprika,
Three tablespoons of grated onion,
Two tablespoons of finely minced parsley,
Two teaspoons of salt.

Bring to a boil and then simmer for ten minutes. Serve with fried noodles.

SWEETBREAD PATTIES

To make the patty shells place in a bowl two cups of flour and then add

One teaspoon of salt,
Five teaspoons of baking powder.

Rub between the hands to mix and run into the prepared flour

One-half cup of shortening.

Mix to a dough with a scant two-thirds cup of ice-cold water. Turn on a floured moulding board and either roll or pat out one and one-quarter inch thick. Cut as for biscuits, using a water glass to cut with. The biscuit cutter will not permit cutting with this thickness of dough. Now use small cutter and cut out the centre, leaving about one-half inch thickness at the bottom and a wall one-half inch thick around the patty shell. Place on a baking sheet and bake in a hot oven for eighteen minutes. Then fill with braised sweetbreads.

BRAISED OXTAILS WITH BAKED DRIED PEAS

Soak one and one-half cups of dried peas over night and then in the morning parboil. Place in a baking dish, together with

One-half cup of chopped onions,
Two green peppers, chopped fine,
Two prepared oxtails,
One cupful of tomatoes,
Two teaspoons of salt,
One-half teaspoon of pepper,

and sufficient water to cover. Bake in a moderate oven for three hours.

To prepare the ox-tails have the butcher cut the tails in two-inch pieces and then soak for two hours in lukewarm water. Wash well and parboil for fifteen minutes.

CHILI OF BEEF

Cut one pound of flank steak in one-inch blocks and then roll in flour and brown quickly in hot fat. Now add

Six onions, chopped fine,
Three red pimentoes, chopped fine,
One cup of tomatoes,
One cup of water.

Cook slowly until meat is tender and then season with

Two teaspoons of salt,
One teaspoon of paprika,

and add one cup of cooked beans. Heat to boiling point and then serve.

MEAT LOAF

Two cups of raw meat, minced fine,
One cup of onions, chopped fine,
Two cups of cold cooked oatmeal,
One teaspoon of thyme,
One teaspoon of sweet marjoram,
One tablespoon of salt,
One teaspoon of pepper,
One-half cup of stock to moisten.

Mix thoroughly and then pack into a well-greased and floured loaf-shaped pan. Place this pan in a larger one containing water and bake in a slow oven for one hour. This dish will keep for one week in the icebox. It makes splendid sandwiches.

Select cut from neck then using meat for the loaf

Then cover the bones with cold water and then add

Two onions,
One carrot,
One fagot of soup herbs.

Cook slowly for one hour. Use this liquid for a stock for making gravy.

SWEETBREADS POLASKA

Select medium-sized sweetbreads, place the sweetbreads in cold water to soak, adding one teaspoon of lemon juice; soak for two hours and then wash and pat dry. Remove the tubes and fatty particles and then place in a saucepan. Cover with boiling water and cook for twenty minutes. Blanch under cold running water and let cool. Pat dry and then place in icebox until needed.

Prepare one pint of cream sauce as follows: Place one pint of milk in a saucepan and add six tablespoons of flour. Stir with a wire spoon or fork to dissolve the flour, then place on the stove and bring to a boil. Now add

One level tablespoon of salt.
One level teaspoon of paprika,
Two tablespoons of lemon juice,
One teaspoon of grated rind of lemon,
One-half teaspoon of mustard,
One well-beaten egg.

Beat to thoroughly mix; then add

One cup of cooked peas,
One tablespoon of grated onion,
The prepared sweetbreads, cut into three-quarter inch pieces.

Mix thoroughly and then fill into the patty shells. Sprinkle the top with fine bread crumbs; place and bake in a moderate oven for twenty-five minutes. Now while the patties are heating, peel and wash one-quarter pound of mushrooms, using the stem and button. Parboil and then drain. Pan for four minutes in a little butter and then serve as a garnish with the patties.

CREOLE BEEF

Have the butcher cut two pounds of shin beef, leaving the bone in. Wipe it with a damp cloth and then pat into the meat one-half cupful of flour. Melt five tablespoons of shortening in a deep saucepan, and when hot put in the meat. Brown quickly and then turn on the other side. When both sides are browned add

Two cups of boiling water,
One cup of chopped onions,
Two carrots cut in dice,
One cup of canned tomatoes.

Bring quickly to a boil and cover closely and cook very slowly until tender, usually about two hours. Season and then it is ready to serve; or the pot may be placed in a slow oven for three hours.

SHELL FISH

Shellfish includes crabs, both hard and soft shell, lobsters, shrimp, terrapin, green turtle, snapper, etc.

All shellfish must be actively alive before cooking. This is the essential point and will prevent ptomaine poisoning. Never cook shellfish if they are dead. Remember, they are deadly.

Place a boiler of water on the stove and bring to a boil. Add one tablespoon of red pepper and one cup of vinegar. To cook lobster, shrimp, crabs, etc., cover and cook rapidly for twenty-five minutes for the medium size, fifteen minutes for the small and thirty minutes for the large ones.

When cooked, remove from the water and place under cold water. Let cool. Place on the ice until needed.

To clean crabs break off the claws and then save the two large ones. Then remove the apron pieces of the shell, like a plate under the eyes. Break the shell apart and remove the spongy fingers, sandbag and eggs, if any. Wash well. You now have white oval-shaped pieces of crab meat, that must be picked from its cells. Split with a silver knife and use an oyster fork to pick out the meat. This can be used for au gratin, à la King, ravigotte, deviled crabs, salads, croquettes and crab cakes.

CRAB MEAT

The crab must be actively alive before cooking. To cook place a large boiler of water on the fire and bring to a boil; add to it

One-half cup of vinegar,
One teaspoon of cayenne pepper.

Then add the crabs and cover closely and boil for twenty minutes. Count time when water boils after adding crabs.

FRIED CRAB MEAT

Pick the meat from the cooked crabs and mince fine two ounces of bacon. Place the bacon and one and one-half cups of crab meat and two tablespoons of grated onion in a hot skillet and cook until nicely browned. Serve on toast and pour melted butter over the prepared crab meat.

CRAB MEAT SERVED IN CREAM

Place in a saucepan

One and one-half cups of milk,
Six level tablespoons of flour.

Stir to blend. Bring to a boil and cook for three minutes. Now add

One and one-half cups of crab meat,
One green pepper minced fine,
One onion, grated,
One teaspoon of salt,
One teaspoon of paprika,
Grated rind of one-quarter lemon,
Juice of one lemon,
Two tablespoons of butter.

Toss gently, cooking until well heated. Serve in individual ramekins or small custard cups, dusting with paprika.

FRIED CRABS

Clean the cooked crabs and then cut a thin slice from the shell that contains the meat. Dip the meaty part in a salad oil and fry until golden brown in hot skillet.

RAVIGOTTE SAUCE

One cup mayonnaise,
One-half cup finely chopped young green onions,
One-quarter cup finely chopped parsley,
One-quarter cup finely chopped green peppers,
One-quarter teaspoon mustard,
One teaspoon paprika,
One teaspoon salt.

Beat to mix.

CRAB MEAT BALLS

Mince fine

Two ounces of bacon,
Two green peppers,
One-half cup of canned tomatoes, pressed very dry,
Two tomatoes,
Three onions.

Brown the bacon quickly and then add the finely chopped peppers, tomatoes and onions. Cook gently until soft and dry, then add

One and one-half cups of crab meat,
One teaspoon of salt,
One teaspoon of paprika,
One tablespoon of Worcestershire sauce.

Mix well and then form into balls the size of a fishcake and roll in flour, dip in beaten egg and fry until golden brown in hot fat. Serve with tartare sauce.

CRAB RAVIGOTTE

Serve crab meat in nests of crisp lettuce with ravigotte sauce.

CRAB MEAT A LA KING

Place in saucepan or chafing dish

One and one-half cups of thick cream sauce.

Add

Three-quarters cup of mushrooms, peeled and cut into tiny pieces
and parboiled,
Two pimentos chopped fine,
One well-beaten egg,
One teaspoon salt,
One teaspoon paprika,
Juice of one-half lemon,
Two cups or one-half pound of crab meat.

peeled and cut into tiny pieces and parboiled.

Toss with fork to mix; heat to boiling point and serve with toast.

TRIPE AND OYSTERS

Cut one-half pound of cooked tripe into small dice and place in a saucepan and cover with boiling water. Cook for ten minutes and then drain and add

One and one-half cups of thin cream sauce,
One small onion, grated,
Two tablespoons of finely minced parsley,
Twenty-five stewing oysters.

Bring to a boil and cook for eight minutes, then season with

Two teaspoons of salt,
One teaspoon of paprika.

GRILLED OYSTER ON HALF SHELL

Allow four large oysters for each service. Have the oysters opened on the deep shell and remove the oysters, wash free from bits of shell and then roll in grated cheese. Replace on shell and then spread each oyster with one-half teaspoon of minced bacon. Sprinkle with fine bread crumbs and then bake eight minutes in a hot oven or broiler.

OYSTERS ON THE HALF SHELL

Have the oysters opened on the deep shell and remove the oyster. Look over carefully for bits of shell, and then prepare a mixture of

One tablespoon of horse radish, grated,
Three tablespoons of catsup,
One-half teaspoon of salt,
One teaspoon of paprika.

Mix and dip oyster into the sauce, then roll in finely grated cheese. Serve ice cold.

OYSTER COCKTAIL

Sauce for the cocktail can be made from

One-half cup of finely chopped onions.

Place in a saucepan and cook until the onions are soft and then rub through a fine sieve and add

One tablespoon of horseradish,
One tablespoon of Worcestershire sauce,
One teaspoon of salt,
One teaspoon of paprika.

Beat to thoroughly mix and add five small oysters for each service.

OYSTER PIE

Make a pastry of

One cup of flour,
One-half teaspoon of salt,
One teaspoon of baking powder.

Sift and then rub in four tablespoons of shortening, and then mix to a dough with five tablespoons of water. Roll out one-half of the pastry one-quarter inch thick and then line a deep pie tin with the pastry. Then place in layers of the oysters and season with

Salt,
Pepper,
One-quarter teaspoon of grated onion,
One teaspoon of finely minced parsley.

Now another layer of oysters and then the seasoning. Now pour over all one cup of very thick cream sauce. Roll out the balance of the pastry and cut in one-inch-wide strips. Place lattice fashion over the tops of the pie and wash with water and bake in a hot oven for forty-five minutes.

CRAB MEAT AU GRATIN

Place in a bowl

Two cups thick cream sauce,
One and one-quarter cups crab meat,
One onion grated,
Three tablespoons finely minced parsley,
One and one-half teaspoons salt,
One-half teaspoon white pepper,
One-half teaspoon paprika.

Mix with fork, turn into au gratin dish, sprinkle the top with fine bread crumbs, dot with bits of butter and then sprinkle two tablespoons grated cheese and bake in a moderate oven thirty-five minutes.

To prepare cream sauce for à la King and au gratin dishes, use four level tablespoons flour to each cup milk.

Dissolve flour in cold milk, bring to boil, cook two minutes; it is then ready for use.

SOFT SHELL CRABS

Soft-shell crabs are shedders, that is, the crab has shed his shell and the new one is not yet hard. To clean, insert the finger under the apron-shaped piece and the back part of the shell and remove the spongy fingers, the entrails, etc. Wash and drain well and then roll in flour, dip in beaten egg and then roll in fine crumbs and fry until golden brown in hot fat. Place in a hot oven for ten minutes to cook. Serve with tartare sauce.

LOBSTER

Lobster may be boiled, broiled and baked and may be served in same manner as crab meat.

LOBSTER A LA NEWBURG

Place in a saucepan

One and one-half cups of milk,
Five tablespoons of flour.

Dissolve the flour in the milk and bring to a boil. Cook for five minutes and then add

One well-beaten egg,
Lobster meat, cut in one-inch blocks,
One teaspoon of salt,
One teaspoon of paprika,
One-half teaspoon of Worcestershire sauce,
Juice one-half lemon.

TO BROIL LOBSTERS

Split the live lobster in half. Lay it on its back. Do not cut the back shell through. Remove the entrails and remove the vein through the tail. Wash well and then brush with salad oil and place in broiler, shell side up, and cook for fifteen minutes. Turn the flesh side up and baste with salad oil or melted butter. Cook for twelve minutes and then remove and serve with melted butter, chili or tomato sauce.

TO BOIL

Plunge the lobster into boiling water and cook for twenty minutes, for medium lobster. Cool, break apart, discard entrails and fine vein running down the centre of the tail. Break open the claws and remove the meat. This meat and that of the belly and tail may be used for salads, ravigottes, au gratins, croquettes, cutlets, à la King and terrapin style.

SAUCE TO SERVE WITH FISH--FOR BOILED FISH

One cup of fish stock (Court Bouillon),
One-half cup of milk,
Three level tablespoons of cornstarch.

Dissolve the starch in the milk and then add the fish stock. Bring to a boil and cook slowly for eight minutes. Add

One tablespoon of butter,
One teaspoon of salt,
One teaspoon of paprika,
One teaspoon of grated onion,
One well-beaten egg.

Beat thoroughly to mix and then bring to heating point. Serve.

TARTARE SAUCE FOR FRIED FISH

One cup of mayonnaise dressing,
One medium sized pickle, chopped fine,
One tablespoon of grated onion,
Two tablespoons of minced parsley,
One teaspoon of paprika,
One-half teaspoon of mustard,
One teaspoon of salt.

Blend well before serving.

HOLLANDAISE SAUCE

One-half cup of salad oil,
One onion grated,
One teaspoon of paprika,
One teaspoon of salt,
Five tablespoons of vinegar.

Heat slowly until hot and then add

Yolks of two eggs.

Stir until thick and then add one tablespoon of finely minced parsley. If this should curdle, add two tablespoons of boiling water. Beat hard.

BROILED SHAD ROE

Wipe the roe and then parboil for five minutes. Now wipe dry and then dust very lightly with flour and then brush with bacon fat. Place on the broiler and cook for ten minutes. Lift to a hot platter and spread with this sauce: Place on a plate

Two tablespoons of butter,
One tablespoon of lemon juice,
One tablespoon of grated onion,
One tablespoon of finely chopped onion,
One teaspoon of salt.

BAKED SHAD

Select a two and one-half pound shad. Have the fish dealer clean and prepare it for baking. Now prepare a filling as follows: Place in a bowl

One cup of breadcrumbs,
Two onions, chopped fine,
Two tablespoons of finely chopped parsley,
One and one-half teaspoons of salt,
One teaspoon of pepper,
One-half teaspoon of thyme,
One egg,
Two tablespoons of salad oil.

Mix well and then fill into the fish. Sew the opening with a stout string and a darning needle. Pat the flour into the fish. Place in a baking pan and bake in a hot oven for one hour. Baste every fifteen minutes with one cup of boiling water. Now, if you place a strip of cheesecloth under the fish you will be able to lift it without breaking. Use the leftover portions for shad au gratin for Monday night's dinner.

PLANKED SHAD

Have the fish dealer split the shad for planking. Soak the plank in cold water for two hours and then place the fish on the plank, and brush it with lemon juice. Place in the lowest part of the broiler of the gas range. Begin to baste with cold water after the fish has been in the oven for twelve minutes. Allow thirty minutes for planking a two and one-half pound shad.

LONG ISLAND DEEP SEA PIE

Grease a deep baking dish and then sprinkle with fine bread crumbs. Now place a layer of finely diced potatoes in the bottom of the dish. Next a layer of cooked fish, cut into pieces the size of a walnut. Next a layer of sliced onions; then a layer of sliced tomatoes; repeat, making two layers. Season each layer with salt, pepper and finely minced parsley. Now prepare a sauce as follows:

Place

One and one-half cups of milk in a saucepan,
Six level tablespoons of flour.

Stir until the flour is dissolved and then bring to a boil. Remove from the fire and add

Two tablespoons of Worcestershire sauce,
One well-beaten egg.

Pour over the prepared pie. Place a crust on top, making three or four gashes in it to permit the steam to escape. Bake in slow oven one hour.

APPETIZERS

The appetizer is a small morsel of food served at the beginning of the meal, causes a free flow of digestive juice and thus helps the digestion. During the growing season these canapés may be scullions, served icy cold, radishes, cold and crisp and cut into thin pieces, but still left on the stem; well-cleaned, crisp, crinkly watercress; coleslaw, with celery; coleslaw with green and red peppers or with scullions, or with bacon or ham nicely browned; or just a slice of full ripe tomato, spread with mayonnaise and dusted with grated cheese or paprika.

Many housewives have the impression that the preparation of the delicious accessories of the cosmopolitan meal is expensive. Well, I hardly need tell you that the French housewife is noted for her thrift and that these dainty tidbits are frequently portions of leftovers from a meal, sometimes the scrapings of a saucepan or a tablespoon of meat, vegetables and gravy.

Have you ever had just a small piece of fish left over, entirely too small to serve by itself? And rather than leave it on a plate or saucer to form an accumulation you think, "Well, I can't use it, so into the garbage it goes."

Now this tablespoon or two of fish would have made you a few delicious canapés; by flaking it and then putting it through a sieve. Place it on a platter and then add

Two tablespoons of butter,
One teaspoon of paprika,
One tablespoon of grated onion,
One tablespoon of finely minced parsley.

Work to a smooth paste and then spread on a narrow strip of toast. Garnish with a slice of hard-boiled egg.

The canapé, though it bears a foreign name, is not necessarily an expensive addition to the menu for the family, nor is it elaborate. This delectable morsel is rather dainty, delicate and used as an appetizer that helps to start and stimulate the digestive juices and thus cause them to flow freely for the digestion of the food.

Canapés are usually served cold, on a plate covered with a doily; the canapé is placed on this. They need not all be alike; the bread may be cut with various sandwich cutters or it may be cut into finger widths and then toasted lightly and spread with the prepared paste.

Meat, chicken, cheese, nuts, olives, etc., may be used in place of the fish. If you have just a spoonful or so of peas, beans, spinach, cauliflower or asparagus you may use it in place of the fish, thus making a vegetable canapé. Try two canned pimentos in place of either meat or fish.

EGG CUTLETS

Make a cream sauce, using six level teaspoons of flour to one cup of milk. Dissolve the flour in the milk and then bring to a boil. Cook for five minutes and then cool and place in a bowl and add two hard-boiled eggs chopped fine and

Two tablespoons of finely chopped parsley,
One tablespoon of finely grated onion,
One and one-half teaspoons of salt,
One teaspoon of paprika,
One-quarter cup of fine bread crumbs.

Mix and then pour on well-greased platter. Cool for four hours. To mould, form into shape and then dip in flour, then in beaten egg and then in fine bread crumbs. Fry until golden brown in hot fat or vegetable oil. Serve with tomato sauce.

BAKED EGGS IN CORN CASES

Make ten corn muffins, from the following mixture:

One and one-quarter cups of milk,
One egg,
Two tablespoons of syrup,
Two tablespoons of shortening.

Beat hard to mix and then add

One and one-quarter cups of sifted flour,
Three-quarters cup of cornmeal,
Five teaspoons of baking powder.

Beat thoroughly to mix and then pour into well-greased muffin pans and bake for thirty-five minutes in a hot oven. Now cut from the top one slice from each of the four muffins and use a spoon to scoop out the centres. Break an egg and then fill to the top with cheese sauce. Sprinkle with bread crumbs and set in a baking pan and bake for twenty minutes in a moderate oven. Serve with either cream or tomato sauce.

SPANISH OMELET

Beat whites of three eggs until stiff, then carefully cut and fold in yolks of three eggs. Then when well blended, pour in hot frying pan containing three tablespoons of shortening; cook slowly, shaking frequently until mixture is dry on top. Now spread with a filling prepared as follows:

Place in a bowl

Two tablespoons grated onion,
One-half cup of well-drained tomatoes,
Four olives, chopped fine,
Two tablespoons of finely minced parsley,
One-half teaspoon of paprika.

Cook this mixture in two tablespoons of shortening until hot, spread on omelet, fold and roll, turn on hot dish, sprinkle with paprika and garnish with finely chopped parsley.

EGGS A LA GRENADIER

Cook three ounces of macaroni and then place in a bowl, and season highly. Add

One onion, chopped fine,
Two tablespoons of finely chopped parsley.

Now fill into five pimentos. Place in a baking pan and bake for fifteen minutes. Remove and then place on a hot platter, flattening well; then place one poached egg on each pepper. Cover with cheese sauce and garnish with parsley.

CODDLED EGGS

Place a teaspoon of butter in an egg glass or custard cup. Break in two eggs, then add one teaspoon of butter and place in a cup of cold water. Bring to a boil and cook for three minutes. Lift cups on saucers, dust the eggs lightly with paprika, and serve. Use two eggs for each service.

How to utilize and serve leftover food so there will be no actual waste has perplexed many young housewives, and as one woman writes me: "I try to keep down the leftovers, but every once in so often they just rise up and conquer me."

Every housewife knows that, no matter how carefully she plans there is sure to be a small quantity of leftover meat, gravy or vegetables. And just what to do with them is almost a daily problem. Two essentials are necessary to successfully utilize leftovers: First, good seasoning; second, attractive appearance.

The French excel in serving leftovers because they so thoroughly understand the art of flavoring and seasoning. The French housewife knows very well that she may only have a _pot au feu_ to serve to the family, but the family knows that the delicate, attractive manner in which the food is put on the table would appeal to the epicure, though the table is but a plain ash top, scoured to the whiteness of the snows.

HOW TO PREPARE A FAGGOT OF SOUP HERBS

Place in separate piles:

One branch of parsley,
One-quarter leek,
Two branches of thyme,
One-half carrot, cut lengthwise,
One bay leaf.

Tie in bunches and then dry thoroughly and place in a fruit jar until needed.

FRENCH SEASONINGS

Each housewife prepares her own seasonings from her garden. You know, she grows them in the garden, and as the leaves become abundant she picks them each day, dries them thoroughly, and then places them in separate containers. She prepares the faggots of soup herbs and has them ready for instant use.

GARLIC

Few American persons know of the garlic but as a rank, pungent flavor. To the foreigner garlic is as sweet tasting as the onion and its flavor delightful in food. Just that dash that it needs to give it zest. Separate a clump of garlic into cloves and then peel and place in a fruit jar. Now bring one pint of white wine vinegar to the scalding point and then pour it over the garlic. Place on the cover and set in a warm place for two days. Use this vinegar for seasoning gravies and use the garlic, cut into tiny bits the size of a pinhead, for flavoring.

For serving, use individual ramekin casseroles, baking shells, and thus make for efficient and quick handling of the food, in which the food itself is presented in a most attractive way. A good blend of seasoning is most important, so I am going to give you a French housewife's secret. Mince four medium-sized onions very fine, then place in a bowl and add

Six tablespoons of salt,
Two teaspoons of paprika,
One-half teaspoon of thyme,
One-half teaspoon of sweet marjoram,
One-quarter teaspoon of sage,
Pinch of cloves,
Pinch of allspice.

Rub together until thoroughly mixed and then put in a warm dry place for twenty-four hours. Put through a fine sieve. Place in a bottle and use one teaspoon of this mixture in place of salt.

The average housewife seldom thinks of using such herbs as sweet basil, sorrel, tarragon, leek and chervil, yet they give a delicious flavoring not only to soups, stews, ragouts and goulashes, but to made dishes. They can be grown in the kitchen garden. A good sauce is important, and not only increases the portion, but also gives it an attractive appearance.

Leftover meats and vegetables may be turned into palatable food with just a little time and energy. The basis of all croquettes should be a good thick moulding sauce that will give a product that is creamy and delicious to taste.

Owing to the fact that croquettes and cutlets are usually fried in hot fat, it is not necessary to add either shortening or butter to the cream sauce.

The true secret to good croquettes or cutlets is to have the mixture rich and creamy. Mould into croquettes and then dip in flour and then in the egg mixture and finally roll in fine crumbs. Now fry until golden brown in hot fat.

How to make the foundation:

Place in a saucepan:

One cup of milk,
Seven level tablespoons of flour,

Stir to dissolve the flour and then bring to a boil. Cook slowly for five minutes and then add the flavoring and seasoning. Set aside to cool and then mould. Form into croquettes, roll in flour, dip in beaten egg and then roll in fine bread crumbs and fry until golden brown in hot fat.

NUT AND PEPPER CROQUETTES

Two green peppers,
Two medium-sized onions,

Mince very fine and then parboil and drain. Turn on a cloth and pat dry. Place in a bowl and add

One cup of cream sauce, made as given in the method,
One-half cup of finely chopped nuts,
One teaspoon of salt,
One teaspoon of paprika,
Three tablespoons of grated cheese.

Mix thoroughly and then pour on a large platter and allow to cool, then finish as directed for cheese croquettes.

LIMA BEAN CROQUETTES

Wash and soak overnight three-quarters cup of baby lima beans. In the morning parboil until tender and then drain until very dry. Now put

One green pepper,
Two medium-sized onions,
Four pieces of bacon,

through a food chopper. Place in a pan and cook until the onions and peppers are soft. Drain free from fat and then put the beans through the food chopper and add:

The prepared peppers and onions and bacon,
One teaspoon of paprika,
Two tablespoons of finely minced parsley,
One teaspoon of Worcestershire sauce

Mix thoroughly and then mould into croquettes and dip in flour, then in beaten egg, and roll in fine bread crumbs. Fry until golden brown in hot fat.

Leftover meat may be minced fine and seasoned as follows:

Put a sufficient amount of cold cooked meat or fish through the food chopper to measure three-quarters cup and

One large onion,
Four branches of parsley,

Place the mixture in a bowl and add

One teaspoon of salt,
One teaspoon of paprika,
One cup of cream sauce,

made as directed in the method, then the finely chopped meat and one teaspoon of Worcestershire sauce. Mix thoroughly and then set aside to mould. Form into croquettes and roll in flour, dip in beaten egg and then roll in fine bread crumbs. Fry in hot fat.

Cold beef, lamb, chicken, veal, ham or crab meat or fish may be used for this delectable method of serving an entrée. Nuts, eggs, cheese, both cottage or pot, and store cheese, may be used. Dried peas, lima beans, navy and soy beans as well as cow peas and lentils will afford a splendid variety to the thrifty housewife who must provide cheap protein dishes.

The difference between a croquette and a cutlet is just in the shape. Croquettes are shaped either in the cylindrical or conical forms and cutlets in flat, either round, triangle or chop shape.

To prepare the egg for dipping add four tablespoons of evaporated milk and beat hard to thoroughly blend. Place croquette or cutlet on wire spoon and use tablespoon to pour the beaten egg over the croquette.

To prepare the crumbs dry all pieces of stale bread thoroughly. No bit is too small, a crust or even the crumbs left from cutting the bread. Put the well-dried bread through the food chopper and then sift through the colander; either put the coarse crumbs through the food chopper the second time or keep them for au gratin dishes.

Always serve either cream or tomato sauce with croquettes and cutlets and garnish them with parsley or cress.

BLACKBERRY PUDDING

Place in a mixing bowl:

One cup of flour,
One and one-half cups of fine bread crumbs,
One-half teaspoon of salt,
One tablespoon of baking powder,
One egg,
One and one-half cups of water,
Two cups of well-cleaned blackberries,
One-quarter teaspoon of nutmeg.

Beat to mix and then pour into a pudding dish and bake forty-five minutes in a slow oven. Serve with sweet spiced blackberry sauce.

MARMALADE PUDDING

Place in a mixing bowl:

One and one-half cups of fine bread crumbs,
Three-quarters cup of flour,
One tablespoon of baking powder,
One-half cup of finely chopped suet,
Three-quarters cup of brown sugar,
One teaspoon of nutmeg,
Two eggs,
One cup of milk.

Beat to mix and then grease and flour a mould. Put four tablespoons of marmalade in the bottom and then put in two-inch layer of batter. Spread with the jam and then repeat with the batter. Repeat this process until the mould is three-quarters filled. Have the batter on top. Cover and boil for one hour. Then unmould and serve hot or cold with thin cream.

PEACH CRUMB PUDDING

Grease a baking dish thoroughly and then dust it well with the fine bread crumbs. Now place in a mixing bowl:

Yolk of one egg,
One cup of brown sugar,

Cream and then add

Two tablespoons of shortening,
Two cups of bread crumbs,
Two cups of stewed peaches,
One-half cup of flour,
One tablespoon of baking powder,
One-half teaspoon of nutmeg.

Mix thoroughly and then pour into the prepared baking dish and bake in a slow oven for thirty-five minutes. Let cool and then turn from mould.

COLONIAL CREAM

Wash one-half cup of tapioca through several waters and then place in a saucepan and add one cup of boiling water. Cook until the tapioca is soft and clear. Remove from the fire and partially cool. Pour upon stiffly beaten white of one egg.

Now add

One-half cup of sugar,
One-half cup of cocoanut,
One-half cup of finely chopped nuts.

Beat to thoroughly mix and then pour into sherbet cups. Chill and top with one tablespoon of whipped cream or fruit whip.

RASPBERRY FRUIT BETTY

Cook one box of raspberries with

One-half cup of water,
One-half cup of sugar,

Rub through the sieve to remove the seeds and then measure. Now place one and one-half cups of raspberry puree in a mixing bowl and add

One and one-half cups of fine bread crumbs,
One-half cup of flour,
Two teaspoons of baking powder,
One-half teaspoon of salt,
One-half cup of brown sugar,
One-half teaspoon of cinnamon,
Two tablespoons of melted shortening,
Yolk of one egg.

Beat to mix and then pour into well-greased pudding dish and bake in a moderate oven for thirty minutes. Serve with fruit sauce made from

White of one egg,
One-half glass of jelly.

Beat until this mixture holds its shape. Pour over the fruit whip and a little of the leftover raspberry puree.

RASPBERRY CRUMB PUDDING

Scald two cups of milk and then pour into a bowl and add:

Two tablespoons of shortening,
Three-quarters cup of sugar,
One cup of bread crumbs,
One-half teaspoon of salt.

Beat to mix and then cool and add

One cup of flour,
One egg,
One tablespoon of baking powder,
One and one-half cups of prepared raspberries.

Beat to mix and then pour into a pudding dish and bake for forty minutes in a slow oven. Serve either hot or cold with raspberry fruit sauce.

CHERRY CUSTARD

Stone one-half pound of cherries and then place in a saucepan and add

One cup of sugar,
One-half cup of water.

Cook slowly until the fruit is tender and then measure and place

Two cups of the prepared cherries,
One cup of milk,
Three eggs,

in a bowl and beat to thoroughly mix. Pour into custard cups and then set in a pan of warm water and bake in a moderate oven until firm in the center.

BUTTERMILK BAG PUDDING

Use a pudding cloth to cook this pudding. Wash the cloth in warm water and then rub with shortening and dust with flour. Now place in the mixing bowl

One cup of buttermilk,
Two level teaspoons of baking soda,
One-half cup of sirup,
One cup of brown sugar,
Three-quarters cup of finely chopped suet,
Three cups of flour,
One teaspoon of ginger,
Two teaspoons of cinnamon,
One-half teaspoon of nutmeg,
One cup of seeded raisins, or well-cleansed fresh fruit.

Mix thoroughly, and then tie in the prepared cloth and allow room in it for the pudding to swell. Plunge into boiling water and boil for one and one-quarter hours. Serve with sweetened cream sauce or fruit custard sauce.

VANILLA PUDDING

Three-quarters cup of sugar,
One egg,

Cream well and then add

Four tablespoons of shortening,
One cup of flour,
One cup of bread crumbs,
One teaspoon of salt,
One tablespoon of baking powder,
One cup of milk.

Mix thoroughly and then pour in well-greased mould and boil for one and one-quarter hours or bake for forty-five minutes in a moderate oven. Serve with cream sauce.

BANANA RICE PUDDING

Wash one-quarter cup of rice well and then cook until soft and the water is absorbed in the rice, in one and one-quarter cups of water. Now place in a mixing bowl

Two and one-half cups of milk,
Two eggs,
Three-quarters cup of sugar.

Peel and rub two bananas through a sieve and then beat to mix. Add the rice and then turn into a baking dish and dust with one-half teaspoon of cinnamon. Break into bits one teaspoon of butter and then bake in a slow oven for thirty minutes.

RASPBERRY CUP CUSTARD

Wash and drain one box of raspberries. Place in a saucepan and add

One pint of water,
One cup of sugar.

Bring to a boil and cook until the berries are soft. Rub through a fine sieve. Cool. Now place three eggs in a mixing bowl and add the raspberries and beat the mixture to thoroughly blend. Pour into custard cups and set the cups in a pan containing water. Bake in a slow oven until firm in the centre.

CHOCOLATE CORN STARCH PUDDING

Two cups of milk,
One-half cup of cocoa,
One-fourth cup of cornstarch.

Dissolve the starch in the milk and then bring to a boil and cook slowly for five minutes. Now add

One-half cup of sugar,
One-half teaspoon of vanilla,
One-half teaspoon of cinnamon.

Beat well and then pour into custard cups that have been rinsed in cold water to mould.

OLIVES

OLIVE CANAPE

Use stoned olives for this. Open a bottle of olives, then drain and put through the food chopper, adding

One small onion,
One green pepper,
Three slices of nicely browned bacon,
Four tablespoons of mayonnaise dressing,
One teaspoon of salt,
One teaspoon of paprika.

Mix well and then spread on strips of toast. Garnish with finely chopped white of egg.

OLIVE SALAD

Place in a bowl

One cup of olive meats,
Four slices of nicely browned bacon, cut into tiny bits,
One onion, grated,
Two green peppers, chopped fine,
Three-quarters cup of mayonnaise dressing.

Mix thoroughly and then lift into a nest of crisp lettuce leaves and garnish with slices of hard-boiled egg. This salad is delicious.

OLIVE CHEESE BALLS

Place in bowl

One cup of cottage or pot cheese,
One red pepper, minced very fine,
One tablespoon of grated onion,
One-half cup of finely chopped olives,
One teaspoon of salt,
One-half teaspoon of paprika.

Form into balls and then place in a nest of lettuce. Serve with French dressing.

MACARONI, OLIVES AND CHEESE

This dish is famous among the mountain folk in Italy and it is served on gala days. Cook four ounces of macaroni for fifteen minutes in boiling water and then drain and blanch under cold water. Cool, chop fine, and now add

One-half cup of pimento olives, chopped fine,
One-half cup of grated cheese,
Two cups of cream sauce,
One large onion, minced fine,
Two large red peppers, minced fine,
Two teaspoons of salt,
One teaspoon of paprika,

and a tiny piece of garlic. Mix and then pour into baking dish. Dot the top with bits of butter. Place in a hot oven for twenty-five minutes.

OLIVE FILLING FOR MEAT AND POULTRY

Two and one-half cups of prepared bread crumbs,
One-half cup of finely chopped onions,
One-quarter cup of finely chopped parsley,
One-half cup of finely chopped olives,
One and one-half teaspoons of salt,
One-half teaspoon of paprika,
One-quarter teaspoon of sweet marjoram,
One egg,
Four tablespoons shortening.

Mix thoroughly and then use for filling meat and poultry. This filling is delicious.

To prepare the bread, soak stale bread in cold water until soft and then place in a cloth and press dry. Rub through a sieve and then measure. Use one-half cup of finely chopped stuffed olives to one cup of mayonnaise dressing.

OLIVE SANDWICH FILLING

Put through the food chopper:

One bottle of stuffed olives,
Two red peppers,
One onion,
Four branches of parsley,

Place in a bowl and add

One-half cup of mayonnaise dressing,
One teaspoon of salt,
One-half teaspoon of paprika.

Mix well and then spread between the thinly sliced bread.

OLIVE SANDWICHES

Remove the stones from one large bottle of queen olives and add

One onion,
Two red peppers,

Put through the food chopper and then add

Three-quarters cup of mayonnaise,
One teaspoon of salt,
One and one-half teaspoons of paprika.

Mix and then spread on the prepared bread.

OLIVE SAUCE

Mince fine, using the food chopper, a sufficient amount of olives, after removing the stones, to measure one-half cup. Place in a saucepan and add

One and one-half cups of cream sauce,
Two tablespoons of salt,
One-half teaspoon of paprika,
One-quarter teaspoon of mustard.

Blend well and then bring to the boiling point and serve. This sauce may be made, for variety's sake, with one and one-half cups of tomato sauce to replace the cream sauce; then add two tablespoons of grated cheese. Heat and serve.

SPANISH MEAT LOAF

Place in a bowl

One and one-half cups of prepared bread,
One cup of finely minced cold-cooked mutton,
One cup of pimento olives, chopped fine,
One-half cup of finely minced onions,
One egg,
Two teaspoons of salt,
One teaspoon of paprika,
One-quarter teaspoon of thyme,
One-half cup thick cream sauce.

Mix thoroughly and then pack into the prepared loaf-shaped pan. Place in a larger pan containing hot water and then bake in a moderate oven for forty minutes. Serve with olive sauce. To prepare bread, soak stale bread in cold water; press dry; rub through fine sieve.

OLIVE AND CLAM COCKTAIL

Use olive meats for this. Olive meats are pieces of olives cut from large olives and packed in jars. There are no stones nor waste. Place in a small bowl

Three tablespoons of chili sauce,
One tablespoon of horseradish,
One tablespoon of lemon juice,
One-quarter cup of olive meats,
One teaspoon of salt,
One teaspoon of paprika,
One tablespoon of grated onion.

Mix thoroughly and then divide into four cocktail glasses. Add three cherrystone or little-neck clams to each glass.

SAUCES

A formula is necessary if the housewife is to have her sauces uniform, so that

One level tablespoon of flour and one cup of milk make a thin sauce, as for soups.

Two level tablespoons of flour and one cup of milk make a thin sauce.

Three level tablespoons of flour and one cup of milk make a medium sauce.

Four tablespoons of flour and one cup of milk make a thick sauce.

Five level tablespoons of flour and one cup of milk make a sauce for cutlets, croquettes, etc.

Use a saucepan that is scoured bright, add the flour to the cold milk and then stir to dissolve, using fork or wire whip to facilitate the process. Never use a spoon for this purpose, as it is impossible to thoroughly dissolve the lumps. Place on the fire and bring to a boil, stirring constantly. Cook for five minutes after the boiling point is reached and then remove from the fire and add seasoning. It is then ready to use. If you desire a butter flavor, add one tablespoonful of butter with the seasoning and stir until melted.

Part milk and water, stock, chicken broth, oyster or clam juice may be used in place of all milk with very good results. When making soups or sauces for meat and vegetable dishes the liquid from the canned vegetables, or the water in which the fresh vegetables were cooked, may be combined with an equal portion of milk.

Many splendid varieties of sauce can be made from the plain cream sauce. For parsley sauce add four tablespoonfuls of finely chopped parsley to one cup of cream sauce.

ONION SAUCE

One-half cupful of cooked onions, rubbed through a coarse sieve, and then add to one cupful of cream sauce.

PIMENTO CREAM SAUCE

Three canned pimentos, rubbed through a fine sieve and then add to one cupful of cream sauce.

SUPREME SAUCE

One cupful of thick cream sauce,
One-half cupful of mushrooms, pared and cut in pieces and parboiled,
Yolk of one egg.

Seasoning well to taste.

CELERY SAUCE

One cup of thick cream sauce,
One cup of finely diced celery, parboiled until tender,
One teaspoon of salt,
One-half teaspoon of paprika.

Blend well.

ADMIRAL SAUCE

One cup of thick cream sauce,
Grated rind of one-quarter lemon,
Two tablespoons of capers,
Two tablespoons of finely chopped parsley,
Juice of one-half lemon,
Two tablespoons of butter.

Stir until well blended and then heat until just below the boiling point. Season.

BEARNAISE SAUCE

One-half cup of thick cream sauce,
Yolks of two eggs,
One teaspoon of grated onion,
Three tablespoons of butter.

Blend well, and now add

One teaspoon of salt,
One-half teaspoon of white pepper,
One-half teaspoon of paprika,
Juice of one lemon.

Stir constantly until scalding hot. This sauce will not curdle if left standing for a few minutes.

CREAM HORSERADISH SAUCE

One cup of medium cream sauce,
Two tablespoons of grated horseradish,
Two tablespoons of lemon juice,
Three tablespoons of finely minced parsley,
One-half teaspoon of mustard,
One-half teaspoon of white pepper,
One teaspoon of salt.

Beat thoroughly to mix.

MAINTENON SAUCE (FOR AU GRATIN DISHES)