Chapter IX: Preface (9)

Seventh, porterhouse. This portion of the loin contains the choicest steaks, excellent and nutritious and easily cooked. The fillet or tenderloin forms a part of the loin and averages about 13 per cent. waste.

Eighth, rump. This cut is very nutritious, but requires careful cooking to render it tender; it contains slightly more waste than the round. Good steaks are obtained from the rump; it is also used for pot roast braising and coming.

Ninth, pin bone, the middle portion of the loin. It is of excellent quality, tender and of good flavor and quite as popular as the loin. It is the face cut of the rump.

Tenth, round. An inexpensive cut, containing only 7 per cent, waste. It is nutritious as tenderloin, but not as tender. The first essential in cooking is to sear the outside in order to retain the juices and then cook slowly until tender.

Steak and roast are cut from the round and the back or heel and is used for pot roast and stews.

One factor in helping to keep up the high prices of food is that the average woman, _when she goes to market, has in mind_ fancy price and choice cuts for roast, steaks and chops. The choice cuts represent about 26 per cent. of the whole carcass, leaving about 74 per cent. to be disposed of. Now, if this becomes difficult, the fancy cuts must bear the additional cost and so become proportionately high in price.

Take a cross cut of beef, weighing about six pounds and wipe with a damp cloth, and one-half cupful of flour patted into it and then brown quickly on both sides in a frying pan and then place in a fireless cooker or a moderate oven together with

Two medium-sized onions,
One carrot, cut in quarters,
One and one-half cups of boiling water,

and cook slowly, allowing one-half hour for the meat to start cooking and then twenty-five minutes to the pound. Baste frequently. If baked in the range it should give a delicious, well-flavored roast, that will supply the most finicky family with a good substantial food.

The bolar cut from the shoulder may be prepared the same way.

Meat from the neck and shin may be used for stews, goulashes and meat loaves.

POT ROAST OF SHIN BEEF, ENGLISH STYLE

Have the butcher cut a piece of beef from the upper part of the shin, with the bone in. Wipe with a damp cloth and then pat in one-half cupful of flour. Brown quickly on both sides and then lift to a deep saucepan and add

One large turnip, cut in quarters,
One large carrot, cut in quarters,
One faggot of soup herbs,
One-half teaspoon of sweet marjoram,
Two cups of boiling water.

Cover closely and cook slowly until the meat is tender, allowing one-half hour for meat to start cooking and twenty-five minutes to the pound, counting the time when it is put into the kettle.

The plate and brisket may be used for soups, stews and goulashes and for corning. The brisket makes a splendid pot roast when boned and rolled. Also the plate or brisket may be used for à la mode.

The flank steak is a choice piece of lean, boneless meat that lies close to the ribs and weighs from one and three-quarters to two and one-half pounds. It may be used for steaks, if cut in slanting slices or for mock fillet or rolled or for hamburg steak.

When boiling or stewing meat, keep this in mind: Meat to be palatable and juicy must contain nutriment; it must be plunged into boiling water to seal the surface, by coagulating the albumen in the meat; and then it should be cooked just below the boiling point until tender, allowing one-half hour for the meat to heat and start cooking and then twenty-five minutes to the pound. Add salt just before removing from the fire.

Keep this fact in mind, that salt will, if added when the meat is just starting to cook, extract the juice.

For pot roast and braises, etc., it is necessary to quickly sear over the surface of the meat for the same reason that the meat was plunged into boiling water and then cook slowly, allowing the same proportion of time as for boiling or stewing.

The real object in cooking meat is to retain the juices and make it sufficiently to eat and increase its flavor.

BEEF STEW

Cut two and one-half pounds of stewing beef in two-inch pieces and then roll in flour and brown in hot fat; then add three pints of boiling water. Bring to a boil and cook slowly for one hour; then place in a saucepan

Two cups of flour,
One-half teaspoon of pepper,
One teaspoon of salt,
One tablespoon of baking powder.

Rub between the hands to mix and then add three-quarters cup of cold water to form a dough. Make into balls between the hands and then drop into the stew. Cover closely and boil fast for twelve minutes. Now remove the lid and cook for three minutes longer. Then season and serve.

TO PREPARE FISH FOR FRYING

Remove the head, fins and bones, using them for the fish stock. Place fillets in a dish and marinate for one hour in

Three tablespoons of lemon juice or vinegar,
Two tablespoons of salad oil,
Two tablespoons of grated onion,
One teaspoon of salt,
One teaspoon of paprika.

Then roll lightly in flour and dip into beaten egg, then in fine crumbs and fry until golden brown in hot fat.

GRILLED FISH

Sea trout, striped bass or other fish may be used. Clean and bone the fish and then place in baking dish and spread freely with salad oil. Broil for twelve minutes in broiler of the gas range or bake for fifteen minutes in a hot oven. Serve with a fish sauce prepared as follows:

Chop fine

Four onions,
Three large tomatoes,
Two green peppers.

Now chop two ounces of salt pork or fat bacon very fine and place in a skillet and cook until nicely browned. Add the finely chopped onions and tomatoes and green pepper and cook slowly until the vegetables are soft. Then season with

One-half teaspoon of sugar,
One teaspoon of salt,
One-half teaspoon of white pepper,
Juice of one-half lemon.

Mix thoroughly and serve with the fish.

FISH LOAF

Prepare a sauce as follows:

Place in a saucepan

One cup of milk,
Five tablespoons of flour.

Stir with a fork until the flour is dissolved and then bring quickly to a boil. Cook three minutes and then remove and pour into a mixing bowl, and add

Two cups of cold-boiled fish,
One cup of cold-boiled rice,
One cup of stale bread, prepared as for fish cutlet,
Four tablespoons of shortening (finely chopped salt pork if
desired),
One large onion,
One large green pepper,
Six branches of parsley, minced very fine,
One tablespoon of paprika,
One-half teaspoon of mustard,
One tablespoon of Worcestershire sauce,
One-half teaspoon of sweet marjoram,
One egg.

Beat hard to thoroughly mix and then pour into a well-greased and floured loaf-shaped pan. Place this pan in a larger one containing hot water. Bake in a moderate oven for one hour. Serve with a sauce made as follows:

Two cups of stewed tomatoes,
Four onions, chopped fine,
One green pepper, chopped fine.

Cook until onions and peppers are soft and then rub through a coarse sieve. Now add

One-half cup of water,
Three tablespoons of cornstarch,
Two teaspoons of salt,
One teaspoon of sugar,
One-half teaspoon of pepper,
Pinch of cloves.

Mix well and then pour into tomato mixture. Stir well until the boiling point is reached and then cook three minutes. Add two tablespoons of butter and serve.

BROILED BASS

Have the fish dealer split the bass for broiling, then wash and pat dry with a paper napkin and cover the cut surface of the fish with salad oil. Place on a baking sheet and broil in the broiler of the gas range until nicely browned; then set in the oven for five minutes to finish cooking.

CREAM FINNAN HADDIE

Cover the fish with cold water and then bring to a boil. Drain and cover with cream sauce. Now add:

One green pepper, chopped fine,
One onion grated,
Five tablespoons of finely chopped parsley,
Two tablespoons of butter.

Simmer slowly for ten minutes to cook the herbs; then lift to the toast.

LONG ISLAND SOUND COCKTAIL

Place in a bowl

One-half bottle of tomato catsup,
One tablespoon of grated onion,
Two tablespoons of finely minced parsley,
One tablespoon of finely minced green pepper,
One tablespoon of Worcestershire sauce,
One-half teaspoon of mustard.

Mix well and then take the clam shells and scrub them clean. Fill with a mixture as follows:

One cup of cold-boiled fish,
One onion, chopped fine,
One green pepper, chopped fine.

Mix well. Make a well in the centre and fill with a sauce. Dust with paprika and serve ice cold.

FILET FISH, SOUTHERN STYLE

Clean, wash and drain fish. Do not dry. Have fat smoking hot. Place fish in pan, reduce heat and cook slowly until brown and crisp.

FISH CAKES

Boil fifteen large potatoes and then mash fine and add

One-half pound of prepared shredded codfish,
One egg,
Lump of butter the size of an egg,
One teaspoon of paprika.

Mix thoroughly and then form into balls. Roll in flour and fry until golden brown in hot fat.

COLD SPICE TONGUE

Select a medium-sized tongue without the gullet and wash well; then soak for four hours in warm water. Place in a deep saucepan and cover with warm water and add

One carrot, cut in dice,
Two onions sliced,
One faggot of soup herbs,
Two bay leaves,
Two allspice,
Four cloves,
One cup of strong cider vinegar.

Cover closely and bring to a boil; then simmer and keep just below the boiling point for three hours. Let cool in the liquid and then, when cold, chill in the ice box before slicing.

The coarse left-over parts of the tongue may be used for meat loaf, croquettes or hash.

PICKLED TRIPE

Cut one pound of cooked honeycomb tripe in pieces one inch by three inches. Place in a casserole dish and add

One cup of vinegar,
One-half cup of water,
One onion, cut fine,
One teaspoon of salt,
One-half teaspoon of white pepper,
One bay loaf,
Eight cloves,
Ten allspices,
One small red pepper pod.

Cover and bake in hot oven for thirty minutes and then cool.

BAKED HAM, VIRGINIA

Scrub a small ham and cook until tender. The fireless cooker will prevent the ham from wasting while cooking. When tender, lift and remove the skin. Trim to shape and then place in a bowl

Three-quarters cup of brown sugar,
One-quarter cup of cinnamon,
One teaspoon of nutmeg,
One teaspoon of cloves,
One teaspoon of allspice.

Mix thoroughly and then pat and rub into the ham. Place in a hot oven and bake for forty minutes, basting frequently with one-half cupful of water and one-half cupful of vinegar.

CORN BEEF HASH

Cut the cooked meat into one-half inch cubes and place in a saucepan and add to each cup of meat

One and one-half cups of pared and diced potatoes,
One-half cup of finely chopped onions,
One cup of boiling water.

Cover closely and steam until meat and potatoes are tender and the water is evaporated; then season. Now melt three tablespoons of shortening in an iron frying pan and when hot turn in the hash, forming an omelet shape in half the pan. When nicely browned, turn the hash with a cake turner, still keeping the omelet shape, and brown. Turn on a hot platter and garnish with finely chopped parsley.

BROWN POT ROAST OF SHIN BEEF

Wipe the meat with a damp cloth and then pat into it one-half cup of flour. Now heat the bacon fat left from cooking the bacon for breakfast in a saucepan and place in the meat. Brown quickly, turning frequently until every part is nicely browned; then add two cups of water and cover closely and cook slowly for one hour. Now add

Four medium-sized carrots,
Four medium-sized onions.

Season and cover again and cook slowly until the meat and vegetables are tender, usually about thirty-five minutes. Now add sufficient water to make one and three-quarter cups of gravy.

Prepare the dumpling as follows: Place one quart of boiling water in a saucepan and add one teaspoon of salt. Place in a mixing bowl

One and one-half cups of flour,
One teaspoon of salt,
One-quarter teaspoon of pepper,
Two teaspoons of baking powder,
One onion, grated,
One teaspoon of shortening.

Mix thoroughly and then add one-half cup of water. Form to a dough and drop by the teaspoonful into the boiling water. Cover the saucepan closely and cook for fifteen minutes; then lift on a warm dish and place the dumpling as a border around the platter. Lift the meat and vegetables in the centre and pour the gravy over all.

VIRGINIA SAUCE

Strain the liquid from the pan in which the ham was baked and add one-half cupful of flour. Brown well and then add

Two and one-half cups of the liquid from the pan,
One cup of vinegar,
One-half cup of syrup,
Two teaspoons of salt,
One teaspoon of paprika,
One-half teaspoon of nutmeg.

Bring to a boil and cook for ten minutes. Now strain into a gravy bowl and serve.

PORK TENDERLOIN

One and a half pounds of pork tenderloins will make eight nice-sized fillets. Place on a platter and baste with

One small onion, minced fine,
Three tablespoons of lemon juice,
Two tablespoons of salad oil,
One teaspoon of salt,
One teaspoon of paprika.

Turn the fillet to marinate and when ready to cook lift and roll lightly in flour and then dip in beaten egg and then into fine bread crumbs. Cook until golden brown in hot fat.

ROAST FRESH HAM

Select a small baby pig ham and have the butcher bone and then leave space for the filling. Wipe with a damp cloth and then prepare and fill with highly seasoned bread crumbs. Tie into shape and then dust with flour and place in a baking dish and put in a hot oven to brown. Then reduce the heat and baste frequently with hot water, allowing the ham thirty minutes to start and the meat cooking thirty minutes to the pound after that. When ready to serve, lift to a warm platter and garnish with parsley or water-cress and serve with Virginia sauce. Place one medium-sized apple in with the ham to bake.

BRAISED ROLLED FLANK STEAK

Have the butcher score and trim the steak. Now soak sufficient stale bread in cold water to soften. Press dry and then rub through a fine sieve. Measure and place two cupfuls in the mixing bowl and add

Four tablespoons of shortening,
One cup of finely chopped onions,
One bunch of potherbs, chopped fine,
One level tablespoon of salt,
One level teaspoon of pepper.

Mix well and then spread on a steak and roll. Tie securely with a stout string and then pat three-quarters cup of flour into the meat. Melt four tablespoons of shortening in a deep saucepan and when smoking hot add the prepared meat. Brown the meat, turning frequently, and then, when nicely brown, add one cupful of boiling water and simmer slowly, allowing the meat one-half hour to start cooking and thirty minutes to the pound. Add four large onions and when ready to lift one cup of boiling water for gravy. Usually this gravy requires no thickening.

PLANKED STEAK

Have the butcher cut the steak in two and one-half inch thicknesses from the large end of the sirloin. Remove the flank end and then the tenderloin, also taking out the bones. The butcher will do this for you. Now, when ready to prepare the steak, soak the plank in cold water for one hour. Heat the broiler and then place the plank in the oven. Cook the steak until quite rare in the broiler and then lift to a hot plank. Prepare a border of mashed potatoes and put them in a pastry bag, forced out around the edge of the plank. Garnish and smother with onions and minced green peppers. Place in a hot oven for ten minutes. Use the tenderloin for minute steaks. Hamburg the flank and serve hamburg steaks.

LIVER AND BACON, CREOLE

Have the butcher cut the liver in thin slices. Wipe with a clean damp cloth and then roll in flour and brown in hot fat. Now add

One cup of stewed tomatoes,
One and one-half cups of thinly sliced onions,
Two green peppers, chopped fine.

Cover closely and cook for five minutes, then add

Two tablespoons of cornstarch,
One and one-half teaspoons of salt,
One teaspoon of paprika,
One-quarter teaspoon of mustard,
One-half cup of cold water.

Dissolve the starch and spices well and then bring the mixture to a boil and cook slowly for fifteen minutes. Now place mashed potatoes on a large platter, shaping them flat on top. Lay the slices of liver on and then pour over them the sauce and garnish with nicely brown strips of bacon. Sprinkle with finely chopped parsley and serve.

CHOP SUEY

Slice sufficient meat from the cold roast of pork. Now cut in half-inch blocks and place in a pan and add

One cup of celery, cut in dice,
One green pepper, minced fine,
Four onions, minced fine,
One cup of finely shredded cabbage,
One and one-half cups of thick brown sauce,
Two teaspoons of salt,
One teaspoon of pepper,
One teaspoon of Worcestershire sauce.

Heat slowly to the boiling point and cook until the celery and cabbage are tender and then make a border around a large hot platter of cooked noodles and lift on the chop suey. Garnish with finely chopped parsley and serve.

NOTE.--Make the brown sauce from the left-over gravy and bones making a stock.

DELMONICO ROAST BEEF

Have the butcher cut the seventh and eighth rib from a roast, removing the chine bone. Now have him remove the blade and meat between it and the skin, cutting off the top of the ribs. This gives you a heart-shaped piece of very tender beef. It is really the eye of these two ribs. Place the roast in a pan and dust lightly with flour, and then place in a hot oven for thirty minutes to start cooking. Now reduce the heat and cook, allowing twenty minutes to the pound, counting the time from the minute you reduce the heat.

Use the top of the ribs and the piece of meat from the blade for the pot roast or a beef à la mode. Have the butcher remove the blade and roll the flap-like piece around the ribs, fastening it with a skewer or the entire piece may be boned and rolled.

BAKED SLICE OF HAM

Have the butcher cut the ham in one-inch thick slices. Trim and then cut around the edges every two inches apart to prevent curling. Place on a baking dish and pour over the ham

One cup of water,
Two tablespoons of syrup.

Bake in slow oven 25 minutes.

ROAST SHOULDER OF LAMB

Have the butcher bone and roll the shoulder and then when ready to use wipe with a damp cloth and pack with the following mixture: Chop very fine

Three onions,
Four branches of parsley,
One leek.

Pat with flour and then roast in the oven, allowing thirty minutes to start cooking and twenty minutes to the pound, gross weight. Baste the meat after it commences to brown with one and one-half cups of boiling water.

The season for spring lamb is from January to July. The meat is delicate and while less nutritious than mutton is delicious.

Yearling is a splendid choice for lamb. It is fully as nutritious as mutton, without the excess fat of mutton. Fat mutton frequently disagrees with persons of delicate digestion and therefore should be discarded from the menu, and the yearling should be substituted.

The choice mutton is raised in Virginia, Pennsylvania and North Carolina, while that which comes from Wisconsin is of splendid quality. Canada also sends us some fine meat.

Prime mutton is large and heavy, the fat firm and white and the flesh a deep red in color and very finely grained. This meat contains fully as much nutriment as beef.

Soups and broths made from mutton when the fat is removed are very wholesome and are frequently ordered in diets by physicians. Mutton should be hung for a short period to ripen, but lamb should be used a short time after it is dressed.

The cuts in the side of lamb or mutton usually number six: (1) The neck, (2) the chuck, which includes some of the ribs as far as the shoulder blade, (3) the shoulder, (4) the flank or breast, (5) the loin and (6) the leg.

In some parts of the country the butcher makes a cut, using the rack end of the loin and chuck for making the rib or French chops. The term chops is intended to designate meat cut from the rack or loin into chops, preferably one and one-quarter inches thick. Where the meat is cut with nine ribs on the loin, the shoulder and balance of the chuck is cut into chops for panning or braising. These chops require longer time for cooking than those cut from the rack or loin.

ACCOMPANIMENTS FOR LAMB AND MUTTON

Serve with a roast shoulder or leg of lamb, mint sauce, green grape jelly, peas or asparagus and baked potatoes. With mutton or lamb chops serve green grape jelly, mint or currant jelly.

Mutton may be boiled and served with caper or soubis (onions) sauces, currant jelly sauce, boiled or mashed potatoes, peas, string beans, asparagus, stuffed tomatoes and cole slaw.

HOW TO DISTINGUISH BETWEEN LAMB AND MUTTON

Look first at the joint above the hoof. In lamb this joint is serrated or tooth-shaped when broken, while in the yearling and mutton it is the smooth oval ball-and-socket joint. In lamb the bones are pinkish in color; in mutton the bones are a blue-white color. The pinkish colored skin should be removed from lamb and yearling before cooking. This skin contains the woolly flavor.

BONE AND STUFFED SHOULDER OF LAMB

Have the butcher bone the shoulder of lamb and then wipe with a damp cloth. Now prepare a filling as follows: Mince fine sufficient parsley to measure one-half cup. Place in a bowl and add

One green pepper, minced fine,
Two onions, minced fine,
One cup of fine bread crumbs,
Two teaspoons of salt,
One teaspoon of pepper,
One-half teaspoon of sweet marjoram.

Mix and then spread the filling and roll, tying securely. Now pat just sufficient flour into the meat to cover. Place on a rack in the baking pan and put in a hot oven. Just as soon as the meat becomes brown commence the basting with one cup of boiling water. Reduce the heat to a moderate oven.

The time to cook: Allow the meat thirty minutes for heating, so as to start cooking, and then twenty minutes to the pound, counting gross weight.

Keep the fact in mind that the rolled and filled meat requires more time than just the plain shoulder.

To roast the shoulder unboned allow one-half hour to start cooking and then fifteen minutes to the pound.

The leg of lamb may be boned and rolled or rolled and filled, and then cooked just like the shoulder.

BENGAL CURRY OF LAMB

Use the broken and coarse pieces of meat from the roast lamb. Chop fine and then place in a saucepan and add just sufficient water to barely cover. Now add

One onion, minced fine,
One green pepper, minced fine,
Four branches of parsley.

Cook slowly until the meat is very tender. Now thicken the gravy, using cornstarch, and season with

One teaspoon of Worcestershire sauce,
Four tablespoons of catsup,
Two teaspoons of salt,
One teaspoon of paprika,
One-half teaspoon of curry powder.

Make a border of cooked rice on a hot platter. Lift the curry into the centre of platter and garnish with one hard-boiled egg, chopped fine.

BAKED EMINCE OF LAMB IN GREEN PEPPERS

Mince the left-over portion of roast lamb fine, then measure and add any filling that may be left over. Place in a saucepan and add just sufficient boiling water to cover. Cook slowly until tender and then thicken the gravy. Now to one cup of the cold meat add

One cup of boiled rice,
One cup of canned tomatoes,
Three onions, chopped fine,
One tablespoon of salt,
One teaspoon of paprika.

Mix and then fill into the prepared peppers. Set in a baking pan and add one cup of boiling water. Bake in a moderate oven for thirty-five minutes. Serve with cheese sauce. Boiled mutton or lamb may be used in these dishes to replace the roast meat.

HOW TO USE LEFT OVER LAMB

Cut slices from the roast lamb and then line a large platter with crisp leaves of lettuce. Place on the platter the slices of meat. Serve with mint or currant jelly. Use the uneven pieces for curry of lamb or a baked emince of lamb, with green peppers and vegetable salad.

LAMB BOILED WITH RAVOLI

Have the butcher cut for stewing one pound of the neck of lamb. Wash and place in a saucepan and add

Three pints of cold water,
One faggot of soup herbs,
One carrot, cut very fine,
Two onions, chopped fine.

Cook very slowly until the meat is tender and then strain off the broth. Cool, then pick the meat from the bones. Chop the meat very fine and add

One and one-half teaspoons of salt,
One teaspoon of paprika,
Two onions, grated,
One green pepper, chopped fine,
One egg.

Mix thoroughly and then prepare a dough as follows: Place in a mixing bowl

Two cups of flour,
One teaspoon of salt,
One teaspoon of paprika,
Three tablespoons of finely minced parsley.

Mix by rubbing between the hands and then use one large egg and five tablespoons of water to make a dough. Knead until very smooth and then roll out as thin as paper. Cut into four-inch squares and brush the edges with water. Place a spoonful of prepared meat on the dough and then fold over and press the wet edges of the pastry tightly together. When all are ready drop in a large saucepan of boiling water. Cook for fifteen minutes and then lift with a skimmer; place in a dish and pour over the heated and seasoned lamb broth; then sprinkle over all four tablespoons of grated cheese and two tablespoons of finely minced parsley.

LAMB HARICOT

Soak one pint of lima beans overnight and then look over carefully in the morning. Parboil and then place in a baking dish with

One-half cup of diced onions,
One pound of neck of mutton cut into cutlets,
One cup of canned tomatoes.

Season with salt and pepper and add sufficient boiling water to cover all. Place in a moderate oven and bake for three hours.

INDIVIDUAL LAMB POTPIES

Mince the meat left on the leg of lamb. Place in a saucepan and cover with cold water, adding

One carrot, diced,
Four onions,
Four potatoes cut in halves.

Cook slowly until the vegetables are soft; lift the onions and potatoes and thicken the gravy and season with

Two teaspoons of salt,
One teaspoon of pepper,
One green pepper, chopped fine,
One tablespoon of Worcestershire sauce.

Place portion of the meat, two potatoes, one onion and some gravy in individual baking dishes. Cover with a crust of pastry and bake in a moderate oven for twenty minutes.

SPANISH MACARONI

Mince fine

Three green peppers,
Four onions,
Two tomatoes.

Now place five tablespoons of fat in a frying pan and add the prepared vegetables and cook slowly until tender without browning, and then add one-half package of cooked macaroni and

Two teaspoons of salt,
One teaspoon of pepper,
One-half cup of gravy from the kidney stew.

Cook slowly for fifteen minutes.

FALL MENU

BREAKFAST

Oranges
Cereal and Cream
Creamed Beef in Popover Cases
Coffee

DINNER

Radishes Sliced Cucumbers
Kidney Pie
Spanish Macaroni Buttered Beets
Cole Slaw
Orange Pudding Coffee

SUPPER

Rice Croquettes with Cream Beef
Sauce
Cole Slaw
Orange Shortcake Tea

HOW TO PREPARE RECIPES

POPOVERS

Place the popover pans in the oven to heat. Break one egg in a measuring cup and then fill with milk and turn into the mixing bowl and add

One-half teaspoon of salt,
One cup of sifted flour.

Beat with a Dover egg-beater for five minutes and then remove the smoking hot popover pans from the oven and grease well. Pour in the batter and place at once in a hot oven and bake for thirty-five minutes. Do not open the oven door for ten minutes after the popovers are placed in the oven. When the popovers are twenty-five minutes in the oven, turn down the gas and then bake slowly to thoroughly dry out for the balance of the time allowed for baking.

This amount will make eight small or six large popovers. Now, while the popovers are baking, the creamed beef can be prepared. Cut one-quarter pound of dried beef fine, using a pair of scissors to cut with. Place in a pan and cover with boiling water and let stand for five minutes. Drain and then make a cream sauce as follows:

Place one and one-half cups of milk in a saucepan and add six tablespoons of flour and stir to dissolve, and then bring to a boil and cook for three minutes. Add the prepared dried beef and two tablespoons of finely minced parsley and let simmer slowly until the popovers are ready.

Cut a slice from the tops of the popovers and fill them with the prepared creamed beef. Place a tiny dot of butter on top of each popover and dust lightly with paprika.

KIDNEY PIE

The meat pie can be made to be an economical dish. These pies are served in the Chelsea Coffee House in London.

Remove the fat and tubes from one large beef kidney and then cut into pieces the size of a walnut. Place in a saucepan and add three cups of boiling water and let simmer slowly for ten minutes. Turn into a colander and let the cold water run on the kidney for five minutes. Now return the kidney to the saucepan and add

One-half teaspoon of thyme,
One-half teaspoon of sweet marjoram,
Four onions, cut in pieces.

Cook slowly until tender and then add sufficient boiling water to cover. Add the dumplings, made as follows: Strain gravy from the kidney and add sufficient water to measure three and one-half cups. Place in a saucepan and when boiling add the dumplings, made as follows. Place in a mixing bowl

One cup of mashed potatoes,
One cup of flour,
One tablespoon of baking powder,
One teaspoon of salt,
One teaspoon of paprika,
Three tablespoons of grated onion,
Two tablespoons of finely-minced parsley,
One egg.

Work to a smooth paste and then form into balls the size of a large walnut, and drop into the prepared stock and cook for ten minutes. Lift and thicken the gravy slightly. Now make a pastry as follows:

Three cups of flour,
One teaspoon of salt,
Two teaspoons of baking powder.

Sift and then add the one-half pound of finely chopped suet and rub it into the flour well. Mix to a dough with two-thirds cup of water and roll out one-quarter inch thick on a floured pastry board. Line a large baking dish or individual custard cups. Now put a layer of kidney in the bottom and season with salt, pepper and finely minced onion. Place a dumpling on top and then a layer of thinly sliced hard-boiled egg. Cover with well-seasoned gravy and then with a crust, brushing the edges of the crust well with water. Now cut two gashes in the top of the crust to permit the steam to escape and then brush the top with water. If a large pie, bake for one hour; if individual ones, bake in a moderate oven for thirty-five minutes. Use three eggs in the kidney pie.

ORANGE PUDDING

Place in a mixing bowl

One-half cup of sugar,
Yolk of one egg,
Four tablespoons of shortening.

Cream well and then add the juice and pulp of two oranges, which should measure three-quarters cup, and

One and one-quarter cup of flour,
Three teaspoons of baking powder.

Beat to mix and then turn into well-greased and floured mould and cover the mould. Boil for one hour and then serve with the following sauce:

Three-quarters cup of sugar,
One-half cup of water,
Juice of one orange,
Grated rind of one orange,
Two tablespoons of cornstarch.

Stir to dissolve the sugar and starch and then bring to a boil and cook for three minutes and serve.

RICE CROQUETTES WITH CREAM BEEF

Mould well-seasoned cooked rice into croquettes; then dip and flour and brown in hot fat.

Make a cream sauce as follows: Place in a saucepan

Two cups of milk,
One-half cup of flour.

Stir to dissolve the flour and then bring to a boil and cook slowly for five minutes. Add one-half pound of dried beef, prepared as for breakfast, and serve with the croquettes.

ORANGE SHORT CAKE

Place in a mixing bowl

One cup of flour,
One-half teaspoon of salt,
Two teaspoons of baking powder,
Five tablespoons of sugar,
One-half cup of water.

Beat to a stiff dough and then spread on a well-greased and floured layer-cake pan, making the dough higher at the sides than in the middle of the pan. Cover with sliced oranges, cut into small pieces with a sharp knife. Now place in a bowl:

Six tablespoons of brown sugar,
Two tablespoons of flour,
One-half teaspoon of nutmeg.

Mix well and then spread on the shortcake and bake in a moderate oven for thirty minutes. Much of the actual preparation of the menu can be prepared on Saturday.

Use yolk of one egg for making dressing for coleslaw. For orange cake use

White of one egg,
One-half glass of jelly.

Place in a bowl and beat until mixture holds its shape. Pile on orange shortcake.

HALLOWE'EN

On Hallowe'en the good fairies are permitted to make themselves visible to their many friends--so the traditions of Ireland tell us. And the little ones, as they are called by the romantic fun-loving Irish nation, play a great many tricks this night on their enemies and they reward their true friends with many blessings.

It is truly a wonderful night for the romantic maiden to delve into the future and find, or try to find, her luck when seeking for the knowledge of her future life partner. In those good old days of long ago, the lad and lassie spent a pleasant evening trying all the lucky spells to insure them success in their love affairs for the coming year.

And in the midst of much hilarity many games are played; there are bobbing and ducking for apples, spinning the plate, post-office, heavy, heavy, what hangs over and forfeits. These were some of the old-fashioned ways the boys and girls of yesteryear passed a happy evening.

Other old legends told that this one night in the year the spooks or ghosts were permitted to roam the earth, so that, to escape their notice, all must go masked--hence our young folk disguised themselves and wandered forth from house to house, seeking entertainment; for many informal parties were held on this eve and no one was refused admission; each visitor was treated to apples and nuts and then he wandered on his way.

Let your young folk entertain their friends with a good old-fashioned Hallowe'en party; let them play the old games of long ago, and then close to the magic hour of midnight serve a real old-fashioned Hallowe'en supper.

SOME SUGGESTIVE MENUS

No. 1.

Cider
Salted Nuts Olives
Sardines and Potato Salad
Jack o' Lantern Cakes Coffee

No. 2.

Cider Cup
Radishes Celery
Gloucester Cod a la King
Cheese Sandwiches
Fruit Cakes Coffee
Nuts Raisins Apples

No. 3.

Celery Salted Nuts
Baked Virginia Ham
Potato and Pepper Salad
Rolls Butter
Ice Cream Coffee

No. 4.

Radishes Home-made Pickles
Fried Oysters
Potato and Celery Salad
Rolls and Butter
Fruit Ginger Bread Coffee

Have corn husks and pumpkins for the decorations; use autumn leaves, strung together, for wall decorations. Cover the table with a silence cloth and then with linen table cloth, and place in the centre of the table a new wooden pail filled with cider. Bank the sides of the pail with corn husk, golden ears of corn and autumn leaves.

Now wire the handle so that it will be in an upright position. Wrap the handle with yellow tissue paper and fasten a small jack o'lantern made from a small pumpkin to the handle, so that it will hang in the well of the bucket. Arrange the table in the usual manner. Serve the cider from this well during the supper.

Hollow out a medium-sized pumpkin and cut in it a jack o' lantern and set bowls in the pumpkins to hold the radishes, pickle and sandwiches, sugar, etc., and make tiny pumpkins from the yellow crêpe paper, filling them with hard candies for souvenirs.

HOW TO MAKE THE CIDER CUP

Place in a large bowl some crushed ice and

One gallon of cider,
Three bananas, cut into thin slices,
Two oranges, cut into thin slices,
Three baked apples, cut into bits.

Mix and then serve.

SARDINE AND POTATO SALAD

(Twenty-five Persons)

Wash and then cook eight pounds of potatoes until tender and then, when cool, peel and cut into thin slices into a large mixing bowl. Now add

One cup of finely chopped onions,
One-half cup of finely chopped parsley,
One cup of finely chopped green peppers,
Two cups of finely chopped celery,
Two cups of mayonnaise or cooked dressing,
One-half cup of vinegar,
One tablespoon of salt,
One teaspoon of pepper,
One and one-half teaspoons of mustard.

Toss to mix thoroughly and then prepare individual nests of lettuce and place three-quarters cup of the potato salad in each nest. Mould it into a cone and then lay four sardines, tail end up, against the salad. Garnish with finely chopped parsley and serve.

JACK O' LANTERN CAKES

Bake a sponge cake in individual or muffin pans and then ice with chocolate water icing and make the lantern face with white icing.

GLOUCESTER COD A LA KING

(Twelve Persons)

Select a three-pound piece of boneless salt cod from the center cut; soak for three hours and then place in a piece of cheese-cloth and tie loosely, plunge into boiling water and boil for thirty minutes. Drain. Place two quarts of milk in a saucepan and add one and one-half cups of flour. Stir with a wire spoon to dissolve the flour and then bring to a boil and cook slowly for ten minutes. Now add

Two well beaten eggs,
The prepared fish, broken into flakes with a fork,
Juice of one lemon,
Two green peppers, cut into pieces and parboiled,
One tablespoon of grated onion,
One teaspoon of paprika.

Heat slowly until very hot and then serve on toast.

FRUIT CAKE

Place in a mixing bowl

Two and one-half cups of syrup,
One cup of shortening.

Cream well and then add

Eight cups of flour,
Four level tablespoons of baking powder,
One cup of milk,
One-half cup of cocoa,
One tablespoon of cinnamon,
One teaspoon of cloves,
One teaspoon of allspice,
Two eggs,
Two cups of finely-chopped peanuts.

Beat to mix thoroughly and then grease and flour a baking pan and turn in the batter. Place the raisins one at a time on the top of the batter and gently press them into the dough. Bake for fifty minutes in a slow oven. Cool and then ice and decorate with Hallowe'en figures and then cut into blocks.

FALL MENU

BREAKFAST

Grapes
Cereal and Cream
Fried Butterfish, Creole
Hashed Brown Potatoes Water-cress
Rolls Coffee

DINNER

Grape Juice Cocktail
Pot Roast Beef, Spanish
Brown Potatoes String Beans
Tomato Salad
Rolls Coffee

SUPPER

Fried Tomatoes Cream Gravy
Potato Salad
Corn Bread Apple Sauce
Tea

BUTTERFISH, CREOLE

Cleanse the fish and wash well and then drain. Now roll lightly in flour and brown in hot fat quickly. Place in a baking dish and add the following sauce:

One cup of stewed tomatoes,
Four onions, chopped fine,
One teaspoon of salt,
One teaspoon of paprika,
One-half teaspoon of thyme.

Bake in the oven for twenty minutes and then serve from the dish. Other fish may be used in place of the butter fish.

WINTER MENU

BREAKFAST

Grapes
Cereal and Cream
Virginia Griddle Cakes Syrup
Coffee

DINNER

Home-made Chow-chow Piccalilli
Ye Olde-Tyme English Oyster Pye
Mashed Potatoes Buttered and Spiced Beets
Coleslaw
Grape Tapioca Blanc Mange
Coffee

SUPPER

Bean Sausages Cream Gravy Potato Salad Raisin Cake Tea

A nice change for the family is to give them corn muffins and plain rolls or biscuits in place of bread. Usually in the hurry and bustle of getting the business folk off in time in the morning and then preparing the children for school the housewife does not have the time to prepare these homey, old-fashioned breads for breakfast.

The price of butter makes it almost prohibitive to use it as a spread for hot cakes, yet we all like the butter flavor. So let us follow the example of the thrifty New England woman, who puts the syrup into a good-sized pitcher and then adds two tablespoons of butter to one and one-half cups of syrup. Place the pitcher into a pan of warm water and then heat. Stir frequently, so that the butter will melt and blend thoroughly with the syrup. Just before sending to the table beat thoroughly. This not only makes a delicious spread for hot cakes and waffles and the like, but it is a real economy and a saving in butter.

GRAPE-JUICE COCKTAIL

Place one pound of grapes in a saucepan and add three cups of water. Bring to a boil and cook until soft. Rub through a fine sieve and then sweeten and chill. Fill into cocktail glasses and serve.

POT ROAST BEEF, SPANISH

Place in a mixing bowl and chop fine

Two tomatoes,
Four onions,
Three green peppers,
Four branches of parsley.

Now add

One teaspoon of paprika.

Mix and pack into the meat, pushing well into the roll. Roll the meat in flour and then melt the suet in a deep saucepan and add the meat. Brown well and add one-half cup of flour. Stir until well browned and then add one quart of boiling water. Cover closely and then cook, allowing one-half hour for each pound of meat, gross weight. One hour before cooking add six small onions and one carrot cut in quarters.

When ready to serve, add one quart of boiling water and season to taste. This will provide sufficient gravy to use for two meals.

GRAPE TAPIOCA BLANC MANGE

Place in a saucepan

One cup of water,
Two cups of grape juice,
Three-quarters cup of finely granulated tapioca.

Bring to a boil and then cook slowly for thirty minutes and then add

Three-quarters cup of sugar,
One-half teaspoon of salt.

Cook five minutes longer. Now rinse custard cups with cold water and pour in the blanc mange. Let cool and then turn on a saucer and pile with the fruit whip made from

White of an egg,
One-half glass of jelly.

Beat until it holds its shape.

BEAN SAUSAGE

Open a can of beans and drain well, then mash and put through a sieve into a mixing bowl. Add

Two onions, grated,
Two tablespoons of parsley, chopped fine,
One-quarter teaspoon of mustard,
One-half teaspoon of paprika.

Mix well and then mould into sausages. Roll them in flour and brown in hot fat. Use the liquid drained from the beans and sufficient milk to measure one and one-half cups. Place in a saucepan and add five tablespoons of flour. Stir to dissolve and then bring to a boil and cook for five minutes. Add

Three-quarters teaspoon of salt,
One-quarter teaspoon of pepper,
Two tablespoons of finely-minced parsley.

VIRGINIA GRIDDLE CAKES

Place one cup of corn meal in a mixing bowl and add

One teaspoon of salt,
Three tablespoons of shortening,
Three tablespoons of syrup,
One cup of boiling water.

Beat to mix and then add

Two cups of cold water,
One egg,
Two and one-half cups of flour,
Two level tablespoons of baking powder.

Beat hard to mix and then bake on a hot griddle.

BUTTERED AND SPICED BEETS

Cook the beets until tender and then drain and cut into slices. Now place in a small saucepan

One tablespoon of butter,
Two tablespoons of vinegar,
Two tablespoons of hot water,
One teaspoon of salt,
One teaspoon of paprika,
One-eighth teaspoon of mustard,
Tiny pinch of cloves.

When boiling hot, pour over the sliced beets.

Use the yolk of egg for making the dressing for the cole slaw and the white of egg and one-half glass of jelly for making the meringue for the grape tapioca blanc mange.

YE OLD-TYME OYSTER PYE

To prepare the crust, place in a mixing bowl

Two cups of sifted flour,
One teaspoon of salt,
Two teaspoons of baking powder.

Sift to mix and then put one-quarter pound of suet through the food-chopper. Then rub the finely chopped suet through a fine sieve to remove the stringy parts. Now rub the suet into the flour and mix to a dough with one-half cup of cold water. Then chop and fold for two minutes. Turn on a floured pastry board and divide into two pieces. Roll out one-half of the dough until one-quarter inch thick and then turn a large plate over this dough and cut around the edge of the plate. Be sure that the plate is at least two inches larger than the top of the baking or casserole dish.

Now drain the oysters and look over carefully for the bits of shell. Place the oysters in a casserole or baking dish and add the stalk of celery that has been scraped clean and then diced and cooked until tender, also

One grated onion,
Three tablespoons of parsley,
Three cups of thick cream sauce,
One and one-half teaspoons of salt,
One teaspoon of white pepper,
One-eighth teaspoon of thyme.

Mix thoroughly and then make two or three small gashes in the top of the crust and cover the oysters with it, pressing the crust well against the edges of the dish. Brush the top of crust with water and bake in a moderate oven for thirty-five minutes.

Use equal parts of the oyster liquor and milk for making the cream sauce. Chop the celery leaves as well as the stalk.

Now roll out the balance of the pastry and cut into three-inch squares. Score the tops lightly with a knife or prick with a fork, and place on a baking sheet and bake a delicate light brown. Wrap in a napkin to keep warm. When ready to serve the oyster pie, place two of the squares of pastry on a plate and then lift on the oyster pie, and then place a second piece right over the crust of pie. Pour over this top piece of pastry two tablespoons of the sauce from the oyster pie.

RAISIN CAKE

Place in a mixing bowl

Three-quarters cup of sugar,
One egg,
Four tablespoons of shortening,
Two cups of flour,
Four teaspoons of baking powder,
Three-quarters cup of water.

Beat to thoroughly mix and then pour into well-greased and floured loaf-shaped pan. Now spread one-half package of raisins on top and gently press them with the back of the spoon until the dough covers them. Bake in a moderate oven for thirty-five minutes.

TURKEY

A creole method of roasting turkey, chicken, duck or game or broiling fowl, birds or game is given below. Clean and prepare the bird to suit the taste, and when ready to cook, whether broiling, roasting or baking, lard the breast with many strips of salt pork or bacon, or fastened on with toothpicks. Place in a hot oven to sear, then turn the bird, be it large or small, on its breast. Roast, bake or broil for three-quarters of the time on its breast, basting every ten minutes. Dredge occasionally with flour. Do not season at the beginning of cooking, but delay this until the last quarter of the time allotted for cooking the bird, then turn it on its breast to brown.

Finish cooking, basting every ten minutes. This method permits the heat to cook the heaviest part of the bird slowly, so that, by turning on its breast, the bony structure may receive the intense heat.

Birds or fowls that are old should be steamed before roasting. This method will make them tender and juicy.

FILLING AND GRAVY

DRY FILLING

One pint of stale bread crumbs,
One large onion, minced fine,
One teaspoon of poultry seasoning,
One teaspoon of salt,
Two tablespoons of bacon fat or good beef drippings.

Rub all together into a crumby mass, then pack into the fowl.

WILD GAME FILLING

Put through the food chopper enough celery tops, with leaves, to make one cupful, also:

One medium-sized onion,
One level teaspoon of sweet marjoram,
One level teaspoon of sage,
Two teaspoonfuls of parsley, minced fine,
One-fourth teaspoon of pepper,
One cupful of well-dried bread crumbs.

Mix well, then fill into wild duck or goose.

BAKED CHICKEN AND NOODLES

Prepare the chicken for fricasseeing, cook until tender and then lift it. Now cook the noodles in the broth and season. Lift the cooked noodles into a baking or casserole dish. Now brown the chicken quickly on one side in a frying pan, using just sufficient shortening to prevent burning. Lay the chicken on the noodles and then thicken the broth slightly, adding

One tablespoon of minced parsley,
One tablespoon of minced onion.

Pour over the chicken and noodles and bake in a hot oven for twenty-five minutes.

APPLE AND RAISIN FILLING FOR DUCK

Chop enough apples fine to measure one pint. Add

One-half cup of seeded raisins,
One and one-half cups of bread crumbs.

Season with salt, pepper and sweet marjoram. Mix together with two tablespoonsful of melted butter. Pack into duck.

GIBLET GRAVY

Mince the giblets fine. Brown into two tablespoonfuls of bacon fat, adding two tablespoonfuls of flour. Brown well, then add one quart of water. Cook slowly while the fowl is roasting for one and one-half hours. Rub through a sieve, then return to the fire and bring to a boil. It is then ready to serve.

MINCED GIBLETS ON TOAST

Cook the giblets for one hour in one pint of water. Put through the food chopper, adding

One onion,
One hard-boiled egg,
One-fourth cup of canned tomatoes.

Season with

One-eighth teaspoon of mustard, salt and pepper to taste.

Serve on toasted strips of bread for luncheon.

TURKEY MEAT BISCUITS

Prepare the dough as for biscuits. Turn out on a pastry board and pat or roll out one-quarter inch thick. Spread one-half of the dough with the prepared turkey meat. Fold over the balance of the dough, press firmly. Cut with a sharp knife into squares and brush the tops of the biscuits with milk. Bake for twenty minutes in a hot oven.

NOTE.--These biscuits may be prepared the night before and placed in a cold place and baked in the morning.

LEFT-OVER TURKEY

UTILIZING THE LEFT-OVER TURKEY

Remove the meat from the carcass, separating the white from the dark meat. Pick the carcass clean and then break the bones and place in a soup kettle and cover with cold water and add

One-half cup of chopped onions,
One-half cup of diced carrots,
One faggot of soup herbs.

Bring to a boil and cook slowly for two hours. Strain into a bowl and this stock can be used for soups, sauces and gravies.

TURKEY CROQUETTES

One and one-half cups of very thick cream sauce,
One cup of fine bread crumbs,
One and one-half cups of turkey meat,
Three tablespoons of finely minced parsley,
Two tablespoons of grated onions,
Two teaspoons of salt,
One teaspoon of paprika.

Mix thoroughly and then mould into croquettes and dip in beaten egg and then into fine bread crumbs. Fry until golden brown in hot fat.

TURKEY AU GRATIN

Two cups of thick cream sauce,
One and one-half cups of turkey meat,
One tablespoon of grated onion,
Three tablespoons of finely minced parsley,
Two hard-boiled eggs, chopped fine,
One and one-half teaspoons of salt,
One-half teaspoon of pepper.

Mix and then pour in a baking dish. Cover the top with fine bread crumbs and two tablespoonfuls of grated cheese and bake for thirty-five minutes in a moderate oven.

TURKEY, TERRAPIN STYLE

Use the dark meat. Prepare one and one-half cupfuls of cream sauce and then add

One and one-half cups of prepared turkey meat,
Two hard-boiled eggs, cut in eighths,
Pinch of nutmeg,
One teaspoon of salt,
One-half teaspoon of white pepper,
Juice of one lemon.

Heat slowly to boiling point and then add one-half cupful of brown sauce, made from turkey stock. Add one teaspoonful of grated lemon rind and then serve.

MEAT ROLL

Use level measurements. This is a very nice dish for a luncheon. Place in a bowl

Two cups of sifted flour,
One and one-half teaspoons of salt,
One-quarter teaspoon of paprika,
Four teaspoons of baking powder.