Chapter VIII: Preface (8)

Have the butcher crack the feet; wash and put into a pot of boiling water to cook. Cook gently until they separate easily from the joints; lift from the water, and set to cool. When cold divide in portions, dip in egg and cracker-dust and fry in boiling hot lard. Serve with coleslaw or chow-chow.

MINCEMEAT

During the Xmas holidays open house was kept by the barons and knights of the early days. Great festivities and merrymaking was the order of the time. The great fête took place on Xmas day. On that day the mistresses of the households vied with each other in a friendly rivalry with their dishes of mutton pie.

The mutton pie, as it was known in 1596, is the mince pie of to-day. It was also known by the name of Xmas pie or shredds. In Herrick's time it was considered vitally important to put an armed guard to watch the Xmas pies, lest some sweet-toothed rascal purloin them and then there would be no pies to grace the feast. As ever in warring lands, food commodities were scarce and expensive and accordingly considered a great luxury.

MINCEMEAT

Mincemeat may now be prepared for the holidays; and if kept in a cool place it will have sufficient time to blend and ripen. Here are some inexpensive recipes:

One-half cup of suet,
One-half cup of grated carrot,
Six cups of apples, chopped fine,
Two cups of raisins, chopped,
One-half cup of cooked meat, chopped fine,
One-half cup of citron, chopped fine,
One-half cup of orange peel, chopped fine,
Two tablespoons of cinnamon,
One-half tablespoon of nutmeg,
One-half tablespoon of cloves,
One and one-half cups of molasses,
One cup of boiled cider.

Mix in the order given. Pack into a bowl or crock. Cover closely and then set in a cool place to ripen. Cold left-over meat may be used.

NEW ENGLAND MINCEMEAT

Place one-half pound of hamburg steak in a saucepan and add one cup of cider. Cook for fifteen minutes; then remove from the saucepan and place in a large bowl and add

Six ounces shredded suet,
One-half pound currants,
One-half pound of raisins,
Two pounds of minced apples,
Four ounces of minced citron,
Four ounces of minced orange peel,
Four ounces of minced lemon peel,
Two tablespoons of cinnamon,
One tablespoon of allspice,
Three-fourths of tablespoon of cloves,
Two and one-half cups of syrup,
One cup of boiled cider.

Mix in the order given, then pack in glass or crock. Cover closely and then set in a cool place to ripen.

ORANGE MINCEMEAT

Squeeze the juice of three oranges. Place the peel in a saucepan of cold water. Cook until tender. Drain and then pour through the food chopper. Place in a bowl and add

Six cups of apples, chopped moderately fine,
One cup of suet, chopped fine,
One cup of raisins, chopped fine,
One cup of evaporated peaches, chopped fine,
One cup of evaporated apricots, chopped fine,
One-half cup of citron, chopped fine,
One cup of grated carrot,
Two tablespoons of cinnamon,
One-half tablespoon of allspice,
One-half tablespoon of mace,
One-half tablespoon of ginger,
One-half tablespoon of cloves,
Two cups of molasses,
One cup of boiled cider.

Mix in the order given and then pack in a large bowl or crock or stone pot. Cover closely and then put in a cool place for ten days to ripen.

GREEN TOMATO AND APPLE MINCE

Place one quart of green tomatoes chopped fine in a colander. Cover with two tablespoons of salt. Let drain for two hours. Place in a saucepan and add

One cup of syrup,
One cup of cider.

Cook gently for one-half hour; now pour into a bowl and add

Three-fourths of a cup of shredded suet,
Five cups of apples, chopped,
One carrot, grated fine,
Two cups of raisins, chopped fine,
Two cups of dates, chopped fine,
One-half cup of figs, chopped fine,
One-half cup of peanuts, chopped fine,
One and one-half tablespoons of cinnamon,
One-half tablespoon of cloves,
One-half tablespoon of nutmeg,
One-half tablespoon of ginger,
One and one-half cups of molasses,
One cup of boiled cider.

Mix in the order given; then store as directed in the preceding recipes. Do not peel the apples. When putting the suet, raisins and dried fruit through the food chopper, add a dried crust of bread to prevent clogging.

EGGS

The similarity in the proportion of the shell, yolk and white of eggs in the chicken eggs is that the shell averages about one-tenth, the yolk about three-fourths and the white about four-tenths. The shell alone is counted as waste. The white contains about six-eighths water, the solids of the white are virtually all nitrogenous matter or protein. The yolk contains about one-half water and one-third fat, and the balance is of nitrogenous matter or protein.

Newly laid or fresh eggs have a semi-transparent uniform, pale pinkish tint; the shell contains a very small air chamber, which separates the skin and shell of the egg and is filled with air. This chamber increases with the age of the egg.

Eggs when cooked at a low temperature are delicate and easy to digest, and they can be used for invalids, and persons with a delicate digestion.

HOW TO COOK EGGS

Eggs boiled are eggs spoiled; the physicians tell us that hard-boiled eggs require three and a half hours to digest. Keep this in mind when cooking eggs. Water boils at a temperature of 212 degrees Fahrenheit. Eggs should be cooked at a temperature between 165 and 185 degrees Fahrenheit.

Place water in a saucepan and bring to a boil; boil for three minutes and add the eggs. Place on the back of the stove and let the eggs stand for eight minutes for a very soft boil and twenty-five minutes for hard boiled. The water should be kept hot--that is, just below the boiling point.

FRIED EGGS

Place the fat in the pan and heat until very hot and then place where the pan will maintain this heat without getting any hotter; if you use the gas turn down the burner. Add the eggs. Let them cook very slowly until set and then turn if desired. Eggs cooked in this way will not absorb the fat and will be tender and delicate, and not have a crust of crisped egg around the edge.

EGGS CARTHEOTH

Tomatoes, peppers and pimentoes are generally used for this dish. Prepare the tomatoes or peppers by cutting a slice from the top and then hollowing out the centers. Break in an egg and then season with salt and pepper and a little finely minced parsley. Cover with two tablespoons of cream sauce. Place in the oven and bake for ten minutes. Finely minced ham or bacon may be sprinkled over the egg before adding the cream sauce.

Cold cooked or left-over vegetables, such as corn, peas, asparagus, onions or cauliflower, may be used also. Cold boiled potatoes, beets, turnips, etc., may be made to do duty in place of tomatoes, peppers or pimentos for the sake of variety. Serve with a thick, highly seasoned sauce.

POACHED EGGS

To prepare poached eggs place water in a saucepan and add one tablespoon of vinegar to each pint of water. Bring to a boil and then open the egg on a saucer and slide into the boiling water, let simmer slowly until it forms and then lift with a skimmer on to a napkin to drain. Then roll gently on a slice of buttered toast.

If you have any old-fashioned muffin rings place them flat in the bottom of the saucepan and then pour the eggs in and poach. Or you may use any of the poachers, that are sold in any of the house-furnishing stores.

OMELET

Plain and fluffy omelets are cooked in the same manner as the fried eggs.

PLAIN OMELET

Place three tablespoons of shortening in a frying pan and then, while heating, place the three eggs in a bowl and add

One tablespoon of milk,
One tablespoon of water.

Beat with a fork to thoroughly mix and then, when the pan is smoking hot, turn in the mixture. Then place where the omelet will cook very slowly. Season and then turn and fold and roll, turning on a hot platter.

SPANISH OMELET

Use the fluffy omelet recipe and then chop fine two medium-sized tomatoes, drain free from the moisture and add one medium-sized onion and four large olives, chopped fine. Place in a small pan with one tablespoon of butter to heat. When hot spread over the omelet and then fold and roll or place in a hot oven and bake.

FLUFFY OMELET

Separate the yolks and whites of three eggs. Place the yolks in a bowl and add three tablespoons of milk. Beat to thoroughly mix and then beat the whites until very stiff. Cut and fold the yolks into the prepared whites and then turn into a pan and cook slowly. Fold and roll and turn on a hot platter.

Fried eggs and omelets may be garnished with ham, bacon, parsley, finely chopped; pimentos and green peppers.

To make variously flavored omelets, prepare the omelet as for plain omelet and then just before the turning and rolling add the desired flavoring. Then roll and fold the omelet and turn out on a hot dish. Have the filling heated before spreading on the omelet. Left-over vegetables and bits of meat may be used in this manner for attractive dishes.

TIGER-EYE SANDWICHES

Use strictly fresh eggs for this. Separate the white and the yolk and keep the yolk in the shell until ready for use. Add a pinch of salt to the white and beat until very stiff. Pile in a pyramid on a square slice of toast. Make a well in the centre of the white of egg and then drop in the yolk. Dust over lightly with paprika and then bake for seven minutes in a hot oven.

MEASUREMENTS

Many women are familiar with the importance of accurate measurements in preparing foods. Others frequently complain of the troubles they have with recipes, but what they actually need to know is that we no longer live in the days of twenty-five cents a dozen for fresh eggs and that the day of thirty cents per pound for creamery butter of excellent quality is past.

Gone are the days of plenty when the extravagant cook was the best cook. Banish all recipes that call for cups of butter.

From motives of real practical economy, we now use level measurements; that means that you first sift your flour into a bowl and then fill the measure, using a spoon to fill with and then level the top of the measure with a knife. Level measurement means all that lies below the edge of the cup or spoon.

The experienced cook with an eye for measurements can gauge the amounts, very frequently, to a nicety. While she may sometimes have a failure, she will never attribute it to her measure or the method of compounding the ingredients; oftentimes she will blame the flour, the baking powder or even the oven.

One woman wrote me that she wished to know what the trouble was with her cakes. I asked her to give the recipe and she answered that she generally used a bowl for measuring and that then she used sugar, eggs, butter, flour and enough milk or water to make a batter--there was no real definite amounts. When I replied I told her that it was the measurements and methods that she used that frequently caused a failure. But she was sure that was not the case, for her cake was usually good, and it was only once in a while that she had a failure. So I had quite a time convincing her that accurate measurements will always give the same results and assured success and that she could bake the same cake 365 days in the year and not once have a failure.

To-day this woman would not return to the old way of doing her cooking, and recently I had a little note from her telling me to let the other middle-aged and young housewives, too, know how necessary it is to be accurate.

You know it only takes a few minutes longer to measure accurately, and then you are able to make that delicious cake without a failure. No failures, no waste. Truly, the words of "trusting to luck" should be taboo in the efficient woman's kitchen.

The temptation to add just a little more sugar, flour or shortening to a recipe with the idea of improving it must be eliminated if you wish to cook successfully. When using vegetable oil in place of butter in making cakes cut down the quantity of fat fully one-third. Many cake recipes contain too much fat.

When the amounts are less than one cup, frequently it is easier to measure with a spoon. Remember all measures are level:

Sixteen tablespoons 1 cup
Eight tablespoons 1/2 cup
Four tablespoons 1/4 cup
Five tablespoons plus one teaspoon 1/3 cup

Sift the flour once before measuring. Standard measuring cups holding one-half pint are divided on one side into quarters and on the other side into thirds, and they are usually found in all housefurnishing stores, and there is a choice of aluminum, glass or tin.

Sets of measuring spoons will save time and trouble. The spoons graduate from one-quarter of a teaspoon to one tablespoon, thus making accurate measurements for seasoning and flavoring.

A spatula will repay its cost many times over the first month it is used. It is possible with this knife to remove every particle of food from a mixing bowl.

How can you keep a house without a pair of reliable scales? Do you know how much the chicken weighed that you bought on Saturday, and do you know how much waste there was; or the weight of the bone in the meat that you purchased on Wednesday? Do you ever weigh your purchases? Think this over and then buy a good pair of scales and keep them in a convenient place.

List of equivalent measures:--
1 salt spoon 1/4 teaspoon
3 teaspoons 1 tablespoon
3 tablespoons 1 cooking spoon
4 tablespoons 1/4 cup
8 tablespoons 1/2 cup
12 tablespoons 3/4 cup
16 tablespoons 1 cup
2 cups 1 pint
2 pints 1 quart
4 quarts 1 gallon

DRY MEASURE

8 quarts 1 peck
2 quarts 1/4 peck
4 quarts 1/2 peck
2 cups granulated sugar 1 pound
2-3/4 cups brown sugar 1 pound
3-1/2 cups ground coffee 1 pound
3 cups of cornstarch 1 pound
2 cups of butter 1 pound
2 cups of lard 1 pound
3 cups granulated cornmeal 1 pound
3-3/4 cups of rye flour 1 pound
3-3/4 cups of graham flour 1 pound
3-3/4 cups of unsifted wheat flour 1 pound
4 cups of sifted flour 1 pound
3-1/2 cups whole wheat flour 1 pound
9 cups of bran flour 1 pound
2 cups of rice flour 1 pound

ITALIAN DRESSING

One-half cup of salad oil,
Four tablespoons of vinegar,
One teaspoon of salt,
One teaspoon of paprika,
Three tablespoons of grated cheese.

Place in a fruit jar and then shake to blend.

SOUR CREAM CUCUMBER DRESSING

Pare and grate one medium-sized cucumber and then sprinkle with one teaspoon of salt. Let stand for one hour and then drain, and place one cup of sour cream in a bowl. Beat until stiff and add the prepared cucumber and

One teaspoon of mustard,
One teaspoon of pepper,
Two tablespoons of finely chopped onion,
Two tablespoons of finely chopped parsley,
Juice of one-half lemon.

Mix well before serving.

CREAM CABBAGE

Cut the cabbage fine and then place in cold salted water to crisp. Drain well and then add

One green or red pepper, chopped fine to each quart of
cabbage,
One tablespoon of mustard seed

and then prepare a dressing as follows:

Place in a soup plate the yolk of one egg, and then add

One teaspoon of vinegar,
One teaspoon of mustard,
One teaspoon of sugar,
One teaspoon of paprika.

Work with a fork to a smooth thick paste, and then add slowly one-half cup of salad oil. When very thick reduce to the desired consistency with four tablespoons of evaporated milk and six to eight tablespoons of vinegar. Beat with a Dover egg-beater and then pour over the cabbage.

SALADS

Wash and drain the lettuce and then shred fine, using a pair of sharp scissors. Place in a bowl and then chop fine one bunch of scallions and a stalk of celery and add to the lettuce. Cover with mayonnaise dressing and serve for luncheon with a plate of cream soup. Toast and a light dessert will complete this meal.

ENGLISH WATER-CRESS SALAD

Cut five strips of bacon in dice and then brown nicely in a frying pan. Lift cooked bacon, drain off the fat, leaving only about five tablespoons in the pan. Now place in a cup

One-half teaspoon of mustard,
One-half teaspoon of sugar,
One teaspoon of salt,
One-half teaspoon of paprika,
Four tablespoons of vinegar.

Dissolve and pour into the hot fat, bring to a boil and then add the cooked bacon. Now place the prepared water-cress in a bowl and pour over it the bacon with the prepared dressing. Toss gently to mix and then garnish with hard-boiled eggs (sliced).

Corn salad, cabbage, lettuce, romaine and escarolle salads may be used in place of the water-cress for variety.

Radishes should be well washed and then allowed to crisp in cold water. Split from the tip to the stem end in quarters. Large radishes may be peeled and cooked until tender in boiling water and then drained and served with a cream, Hollandaise or plain butter sauce for variety.

OLD ENGLISH MUSTARD DRESSING

One tablespoon of evaporated milk,
One teaspoon of mustard.

Place in a soup plate and blend together, then add one tablespoon of oil. Then drop the vinegar, then the oil again until you have used

Eight tablespoons of salad oil,
One tablespoon of vinegar.

Serve on lettuce, cucumbers, meat or fish.

RICH BOILED SALAD DRESSING

One-half cup of water,
Three-quarters cup of vinegar,
Five tablespoons of cornstarch.

Dissolve the starch in water and bring to a boil. Cook for three minutes and then add

One well-beaten egg,
One-half cup of thick cream,
One tablespoon of sugar,
One teaspoon of salt,
One teaspoon of paprika.

Mix the sugar and seasoning with the cream and add the egg; then add to the boiling mixture and remove from the fire at once. Beat in slowly six tablespoons of salad oil. This will keep in a cool place for six weeks.

ASPARAGUS VINAIGRETTE

Wash and scrape the asparagus and allow four stalks for each service. Trim to remove the pithy end of the stalk and then cook in boiling water until tender. Lift and drain well, then place in a dish and cover with the following sauce:

Four tablespoons of salad oil,
Two tablespoons of vinegar,
One-half tablespoon of grated onion,
One-half tablespoon of finely chopped green pepper,
One teaspoon of salt,
One teaspoon of paprika,
One-quarter teaspoon of mustard.

Beat to mix and then set on ice to chill. Serve ice cold on crisp lettuce leaves.

OTTAWA DRESSING

One-half cup of catsup,
Two large onions grated,
One large green pepper, chopped fine,
One-half cup of salad oil,
Six tablespoons of vinegar,
One teaspoon of sugar,
One teaspoon of salt,
One teaspoon of mustard,
One teaspoon of paprika.

Blend spices in vinegar and then beat hard to blend.

BALTIMORE DRESSING

One cup of mayonnaise,
One-half cup of well drained canned tomatoes,
Two onions, grated fine,
One tablespoon of Worcestershire sauce,
Two teaspoons of salt,
One teaspoon of mustard,
One teaspoon of paprika.

Mix thoroughly and then serve ice cold.

ASPARAGUS AND CELERY SALAD

Mince sufficient celery very fine to measure one cup. Place in a bowl and add

One medium-sized onion,
One green pepper.

Mince very fine and then add

One-half cup of mayonnaise,
One tablespoon of vinegar,
One teaspoon of salt,
One-half teaspoon of paprika.

Mix and then fill into a nest of crisp lettuce leaves and garnish with the tips of canned asparagus.

CHEESE DRESSING

Four tablespoons of grated cheese,
One teaspoon of mustard,
One teaspoon of paprika,
One teaspoon of salt,
Eight tablespoons of oil,
Four tablespoons of vinegar.

Place in a bowl and blend well together.

DEVILED EGG SALAD

Hard boil two eggs and then remove the shells and cut open the length of the egg. Remove the yolks and then rub through a fine sieve and add

One-half teaspoon of mustard,
One-quarter teaspoon of paprika,
One teaspoon of grated onion,
One teaspoon of finely minced parsley,
One-half teaspoon of salt,
Three tablespoons of mayonnaise.

Mix well and then form into balls, placing one ball in the place in the white of the egg, which had been left by the yolk. Now place each white or one-half egg in the nest of lettuce and place around the egg

Six cooked string beans,
One slice of tomato, cut in two,
Two thin slices of onion,

and garnish with two tablespoons of Russian dressing.

VEAL

Veal is the dressed carcass of the calf. The flesh should be firm, pinkish white and should be well cooked to develop its flavor and nutritious qualities. The cuts are the neck, shoulders, rack, breast, loin and leg. The shoulders, breast and loin are used for roasting, the neck and end of the leg for stewing, the leg for cutlets and the rack for chops. The knuckle from the leg of veal may be used for stews, soups, stock or pepper pot.

Other products from the calf are heads, brains, hearts, sweetbreads, feet, calves' liver, tripe, kidney and tongue. The kidneys are usually left in the loin.

TO COOK

The shoulder may be boned and rolled or left plain or just remove the blade bone and then use a filling. The breast may have the bones removed and then a pocket made and filled.

To roast the loin trim and tie into shape and then roast.

Meat from the neck, breast and knuckle is frequently used with chicken and, if properly prepared, it is delicious. Stock made from veal bones is rich in gelatine and may be used for meat loaves, moulds and aspics.

TO PREPARE BREADED CUTLETS

Cut the cutlets into suitable pieces and then roll in flour and dip in beaten egg, and then dip again in fine bread crumbs, patting firmly. Fry quickly to a golden brown. Place in a hot oven to finish cooking. The cutlet may be served with either brown gravy or tomato sauce.

VEAL CROQUETTES

One cup of milk,
Five level tablespoons of cornstarch.

Place in a saucepan and then dissolve the starch in the milk. Bring to a boil and cook for five minutes. Now add

One and one-half cups of cooked veal, minced fine,
One tablespoon of grated onion,
Two tablespoons of finely minced parsley,
One and one-half teaspoons of salt,
One teaspoon of pepper,
One tablespoon of Worcestershire sauce.

Beat to blend well and then pour on greased platter and set in a cool place for four hours to mould. Form into croquettes and then dip in beaten egg, and then in fine bread crumbs; fry in hot fat. Serve with tomato sauce.

COOKING THE FANCY CUTS

TO PREPARE BRAINS

Soak for one hour in cool water, adding the juice of one-half lemon. Drain and then parboil for ten minutes. Drain and then trim free from excess tissue. Place under a weight to flatten and make firm, if desired, or cut into two and dip in flour and then in egg and finally in fine bread crumbs. Fry in hot fat until a golden brown. Serve with Hollandaise sauce.

ROAST SHOULDER OF VEAL

Have the butcher make a pocket in the veal for the filling. Now soak sufficient stale bread in cold water so that when pressed dry it will measure two cups. Place the bread in a saucepan and add

One cup of finely chopped onions,
Three tablespoons of finely chopped parsley,
One green pepper, chopped fine,
One-half cup of shortening.

Mix thoroughly and then cook slowly so that the onion does not brown. When tender add

One teaspoon of paprika,
Two teaspoons of salt,
One teaspoon of pepper.

Mix thoroughly and then cool and fill into veal. Sew the opening with a darning needle and a stout string or fasten with toothpicks. Dust the meat well with flour and then place in a hot oven to brown. Then reduce the heat of the oven to moderate and roast, allowing thirty minutes for the meat to start cooking and twenty-five minutes to the pound. Baste every ten minutes with:

One-half cup of vegetable salad oil in
One and one-half cups of boiling water.

CALF'S HEART A LA MODE

Wash and soak the heart for a few minutes in water and then remove the tubes, veins and cut the heart into dice. Parboil until tender. Then add, using sufficient water to cover

One half-cup of vinegar,
Four onions, chopped fine,
Two carrots, cut in dice,
One teaspoon of sweet marjoram,
Two teaspoons of salt,
One teaspoon of white pepper.

Thicken gravy and serve with toasted strips of bread.

Calf's heart may be cut in thin slices, dipped in flour and then fried. Calf's liver is most delicate and must be cooked quickly, either by panning or broiling. The head is used for mock-turtle soup or cooked and served with brown sauce or made into calves' head cheese. The tongue may be cooked until tender and then pickled in vinegar.

The feet may be used in place of the head for mock-turtle soup, and in place of the knuckle in making pepper pot.

TRIPE FRIED IN BATTER

Cut the tripe into pieces the size of an oyster and then season and dip in a batter. Fry until golden brown in hot fat and then serve with Hollandaise sauce.

THE BATTER

Break one egg in a cup and fill with milk. Place in a bowl and add

One and one-quarter cups of flour,
One teaspoon of salt,
One-half teaspoon of pepper.

Beat well to free from lumps.

CREOLE TRIPE

Mince four onions fine and then place in a saucepan, four tablespoonfuls of shortening; add the onions and cook until soft, but not brown. Now add four tablespoonfuls of flour. Stir to blend well and then add:

Two cups of strained tomatoes,
One green pepper, minced fine,
One-half pound of prepared mushrooms,
One pound of tripe cut into inch blocks.

Cook gently for twenty minutes and then season and serve.

PICKLED TRIPE

Cut the prepared tripe in strips one inch wide and two inches long and then place in a china bowl and add

Four onions cut in rings and parboiled,
Two bay leaves,
One dozen cloves,
Half-dozen allspice

and sufficient vinegar to cover. Let stand two days before using.

TURTLE AND SNAPPER

Lay the turtle on its back and cut off the head. Let turtle bleed for twenty minutes. Separate the body from the shell and remove the entrails. Carefully separate the liver and heart. Now, with a sharp knife, remove the meat from the shell and lay in boiling water for two minutes. Drain. Rub the legs and all flesh containing the outer skin until the skin is removed, with a coarse towel. Now, with a cleaver, chop the shell into five pieces and place in scalding water for five minutes. Remove from hot water. Use the knife to peel off the skin and bristle from the shell. Now lay the meat and shell in cold water for one and one-half hours. You now have white and green turtle meat ready to cook.

TO COOK

Put the meat and shell in a large preserving kettle with sufficient cold water to cover, adding

One pint jar of stewed tomatoes,
One stalk of celery,
One bunch of potherbs,
One bunch of parsley,
Three cloves,
Four allspice,
Four large onions,
Two bay leaves,
One medium-sized carrot,
Rind of one-half lemon,
Three tablespoons of Worcestershire sauce.

Tie the spices and vegetables in a piece of cheese-cloth and bring to a boil. Cook slowly until the meat is tender and then remove the white meat. Cook the green meat, most of which is in the shell, until it is tender. Place the meat, when tender, in cold water to blanch. Use the liquid for soup. Strain and add part of the turtle meat, hard-boiled egg, grated lemon rind and juice of lemon. Prepare the snapper same as green turtle. Only bleed snapper ten minutes.

SHRIMP SALAD

Open two tall cans of shrimp and then drain and wash under cold water. Now shred the coarse green outside leaves of lettuce very fine. Measure two cups and place in a bowl and add

One green pepper,
One onion, chopped very fine,
One-half cup of mayonnaise dressing.

Mix well and then fill into a nest of crisp lettuce leaves. Lay the shrimp on top and mask with mayonnaise. Garnish with two hard-boiled eggs into quarters.

SHRIMP

Shrimp come, as a rule, cooked, but to cook shrimp: Plunge the shrimp into boiler prepared as for crabs. Boil for ten minutes, then drain and cool. Remove the shells and then they may be used for salads, croquettes and fried shrimps.

TERRAPIN

Diamond back or salt water terrapin are best. Fresh water terrapin may be used for croquettes and puree. Clean the terrapin by placing in fresh water for six hours. Wash in warm water and then place them alive in boiling water. Cook for five minutes. Remove and then rub with a coarse cloth the neck, legs and tail to remove the skin. Wash again. Return to the pot. Cook until the legs leave the body easily. Usually about thirty-five minutes for small terrapin and seventy-five minutes for large ones. The age and condition determine the time of cooking. Cool. Now, before it is entirely cold, separate the terrapin from the shell, discard the small intestines, shell, gall, etc. Cut the meat into pieces.

Cook in cream sauce for a la Maryland; in brown sauce for a la mode or stewed terrapin.

STEWED SNAPPER

Open a can of snapper into a china bowl and let stand for one hour; place in a saucepan.

Two cups of water,
Four tablespoons of cornstarch, dissolved in water,
Faggot of soup herbs,
Two cloves,
Two tablespoons of butter,
One and one-half teaspoons of salt,
One teaspoon of paprika,
Juice of one lemon,
Grated rind of one-fourth lemon.

Bring to a boil and cook slowly for fifteen minutes; then add the snapper meat, heat slowly 10 minutes, serve.

STEAKS

The selection of steak depends entirely upon the number of persons to be served. A steak cannot be classed as a cheap meat; the portions of bone and trimming makes this meat a rare luxury in these times of high prices.

Yet there come times when the men folk want steak--and steak it must be. There are three kinds of meats that are cut into steaks; namely, the loin, rump and round. All three will make delicious eating if properly prepared.

The round steak has the least waste, and if steaks are taken from the first three cuts they should be tender and juicy, providing they are cut sufficiently thick and are properly cooked.

The rump steak is fully as tender and palatable as loin and it contains about one-third less waste. The sirloin is the choicest cut in the whole carcass and it contains a proportionately large amount of waste.

Have the butcher cut the round steak one-half inch thick and then pound it with a meat ax to break the tough tissues. Place on a platter and brush with salad oil and let stand for one-half hour. Now broil in the usual manner, turning every four minutes. Lift to a hot platter and spread with choice meat butters given below.

Rump steak should be cut two inches thick and the bone and fat trimmed. Now nick and score the edge of the fat and brush with salad oil, and then broil the same as for round steak.

The sirloin steak should be cut two inches thick. Have the butcher remove the chine bone and then the flank end. Let him add a piece of suet to the flank end; then put it through the food chopper for hamburg steak. It is a mistake to cook the flank with the sirloin. Brush the steak with salad oil and then broil. Lift to a hot platter.

Place one pint of water and one tablespoonful of salt in the bottom of the broiling pan to prevent the fat drippings from taking fire. Turn the meat every four minutes, so that it makes the cooking even. To test the meat when broiling press with a knife; if it is soft and spongy it is raw. Watch carefully and when just beginning to become firm it is rare. Allow four minutes for medium and six minutes for well done.

Do not turn the meat with a fork. The intense heat has sealed or seared the surface and caused the meat to retain its juices, and if you use a fork to turn it you will puncture or make an opening so that these juices will escape.

A two-pound steak will be cooked rare in twelve minutes, medium in fifteen minutes and well done in eighteen minutes. Always lift to a hot platter.

FRENCH BUTTER

Two tablespoons of finely chopped chives,
One tablespoon of finely chopped leeks,
One tablespoon of finely chopped tarragon,
Juice of one-half lemon,
Two tablespoons of melted butter,
One-half teaspoon of salt,
One-half teaspoon of paprika.

Work to a smooth paste.

French and Italian and Swiss cooks frequently serve a vegetable garnish with steaks. It is prepared as follows:

One green pepper, chopped fine,
Two leeks, chopped fine,
Eight branches of parsley, chopped fine,
Two onions, chopped fine,
Ten branches of tarragon, chopped fine,
One-half cup of chives, chopped fine.

Place four tablespoonfuls of shortening or vegetable oil in a frying pan and add the herbs and cook very slowly until soft, taking care not to brown. Now season with salt, pepper and dress on a hot platter in a little mound at the bottom of the steak. Garnish with a slice of lemon.

ENGLISH BUTTER

One tablespoon of butter,
One-quarter teaspoon of white pepper,
One-quarter teaspoon of mustard,
One-half teaspoon of salt.

Work to a paste and then spread on a steak as soon as you place it on the platter.

LONDON BUTTER

One tablespoon of melted butter,
One tablespoon of Worcestershire sauce,
One-half teaspoon of salt,
One-half teaspoon of pepper,
One tablespoon of lemon juice.

Mix and then pour over the steak.

SWISS BUTTER

One tablespoon of grated onion,
One tablespoon of finely minced parsley,
One-half teaspoon of salt,
One-quarter teaspoon of paprika,
One and one-half tablespoons of butter.

Work to a smooth paste.

ITALIAN BUTTER

One green pepper, chopped very fine,
One teaspoon of paprika,
One-half teaspoon of salt,
Two tablespoons of butter.

Work to a smooth paste and then spread on the meat.

VEGETABLE GARNISH

Carrots, turnips and parsnips may be cut into cubes and then shaped like a cork. Cook until tender in boiling water and then brown quickly in a little hot fat. Beets and turnips may be cooked until tender and then scoop out the centres and fill with onions or cucumber mayonnaise.

BROILED HAMBURG STEAK

Do not fry or pan hamburg steak made from flank of sirloin. Place meat in bowl and add

Three-quarters cup of moist bread crumbs,
One onion, minced fine,
Two tablespoons of parsley,
One teaspoon of salt,
One-half teaspoon of paprika,
One egg.

Mix, form into flat cakes, brush with salad oil; place on baking dish. Broil in gas broiler for eight minutes, then place in hot oven for seven minutes longer. Spread with desired butter and send to the table in a baking dish. This will give a delicious flavored meat in place of the usual dry, tasteless cake that is frequently served.

SALADS

Salads are a popular summer dish. They should be made from fresh vegetables which contain the health-giving elements that are so vitally essential for our physical well-being. There are also the mineral salts which help purify the blood stream and thus keep us physically fit.

Eggs, etc., that are used in preparing the dressings have a food value that may be figured upon in our daily ration. Heavy salads, composed of meat, are best to be eliminated for the hot weather. Replace them with light, dainty, attractive salads, that are not only appetizing but also easily digested.

The making of a successful salad is an art indeed. The proper blending of the various ingredients and then using a well-blended dressing and garnishing, so that it will not only satisfy the eye but will tempt the palate as well; that is a real salad.

The proper combinations are very important; harmony must prevail. As, for instance, a combination of beets, tomatoes and carrots would not only be inartistic but also a poor combination of foods. Care must be taken in preparing the lettuce or other greens used. All plants that form into heads must be separately and thoroughly washed in order to free them from dirt and insects, and then they should be given a final washing in water that contains one tablespoon of salt to every two quarts, then rinsed in ice water. The bath in salt water will remove the tiny and almost invisible mites and slugs that cling to these greens.

Many varieties of salad dressing may be prepared from mayonnaise or from the dressing purchased in bottles. When the housewife fails to make a good mayonnaise dressing, or the family is small, a good standard dressing already prepared may be purchased and used in the following recipes:

RUSSIAN DRESSING

One cup of salad dressing, or mayonnaise,
One raw beet,
One raw carrot,
One raw onion.

Pare and then grate the vegetables into the salad dressing and then add:

One teaspoon of salt,
One teaspoon of paprika,
One tablespoon of sugar,
One-half teaspoon of mustard.

Beat to mix and then use. This dressing will keep for a week, if it is placed in a bottle and stored in a cool place.

FRENCH DRESSING

Place in a bottle:

One-half cup of salad oil,
Three tablespoons of vinegar or lemon juice,
One teaspoon of salt,
One-half teaspoon of mustard,
One-half teaspoon of pepper.

Shake until creamy and then store in a cool place. This will keep well until used.

ROQUEFORT DRESSING

One-half teaspoon of salt,
One-half teaspoon of paprika,
One tablespoon of Roquefort cheese,
One tablespoon of lemon juice,
Two tablespoons of salad oil.

Mix smooth and serve.

BOILED DRESSING

One cup of vinegar,
Three-quarters cup of water,
Three level tablespoons of cornstarch.

Dissolve the starch in the water and bring to a boil. Cook for five minutes and then add:

One well-beaten egg,
Four tablespoons of salad oil,
One teaspoon of mustard,
One and one-half teaspoons of salt,
One teaspoon of paprika,
Two teaspoons of sugar.

Beat till thoroughly mixed and then cook slowly for three minutes. Pour into jars or jelly glasses and thin out with cream or evaporated milk when using.

PIMENTO DRESSING

Add four finely chopped pimentoes to one-half cup of prepared salad dressing.

PAPRIKA DRESSING

Add one and one-half teaspoons of paprika to the French dressing. Shake well to blend. Paprika is a sweet, mild, red pepper that will not bite the tongue.

During the warm weather use salads twice a day, beginning the day with water-cress, radishes or crisp young onions or leaves of lettuce for your health's sake.

BLOND FRENCH DRESSING

Place in a wide mouthed bottle,

One teaspoon of sugar,
One teaspoon of mustard,
One-half teaspoon of salt,
Four tablespoons of white wine vinegar,
One-half cup of vegetable salad oil.

Shake until creamy.

The use of paprika is decidedly better than the pungent pepper. This pepper is mildly sweet-flavored spice that does not irritate the delicate lining of the throat or stomach. Now, fully as important as the green appetizers are the dainty salads, lettuce, corn salad, endive, romaine, tomatoes, onions, cucumbers, cabbage and the cooked vegetables, such as lima beans, peas, string beans, beets, etc.

The success of salads depends entirely on the dressings used with them. So, with this in mind, we will now prepare some delicious dressings. Place in a fruit jar and then put them in the ice box, where they can be had at a minute's notice.

You know that often when you come home just fagged out, when perhaps you did not take the time to get luncheon, a cool, crisp salad and some thinly sliced buttered bread and a cup of tea will not only satisfy and refresh you, but will also prevent a headache.

A LA MODE CANADIENNE

Shred the coarse green leaves of lettuce fine and then place in salad bowl and add:

Two cooked carrots,
Two cooked beets, cut in dice,
Two onions, chopped fine.

Toss gently to mix and then prepare the following dressing:

Place in fruit jar,

One-half cup of vegetable salad oil,
Two tablespoons of grated onion,
Four tablespoons of vinegar,
Three tablespoons of finely minced green or red pepper,
One teaspoon of paprika,
One and one-half teaspoons of salt,
Three-quarters teaspoon of mustard,
One-half cup of catsup or chili sauce.

Shake until well blended and then pour over the salad as you serve it.

TRY THIS DRESSING ON PLAIN LETTUCE

Wash and remove all blemishes from one bunch of scallions; then chop fine and add:

One-half cup of mayonnaise,
Two tablespoons of vinegar,
One and one-half teaspoons of salt,
One teaspoon of paprika,
One-half teaspoon of mustard.

Mix the spices and seasoning with the vinegar and add to the mayonnaise. Then add the finely chopped scallions. Serve on plain lettuce.

PARISIAN CELERY

Fill the grooves of the celery with highly seasoned cheese.

SCALLIONS A L'ITALIENNE

Wash and then remove the blemishes from two bunches of scallions, chop fine and then parboil and drain. Now cook four ounces of macaroni in boiling water until tender. Drain, blanch under cold water and then drain again. Now place the cooked macaroni and the prepared scallions in a saucepan and add:

One cup of brown gravy,
One cup of thick cream sauce,
One ounce of grated cheese,
Two teaspoons of salt,
One teaspoon of paprika.

Toss gently until hot and then serve with waffles in place of meat for luncheon.

PEA SHORE PIE

Grease a deep pudding pan well. Cut any variety of fish desired into pieces weighing about two ounces. Free from bones and skin and then roll in flour and place a layer of fish, then a layer of thinly sliced tomatoes, a layer of thinly sliced potatoes and then a layer of prepared fish. Season each layer with salt, pepper and finely chopped green peppers. Pour over it two cups of thick cream sauce with

One-half dozen clams,
One cup of cooked peas,
Two teaspoons of salt,
One teaspoon of paprika,
Two tablespoons of finely chopped parsley.

Cover with a crust rolled one-half inch thick. Bake in a moderate oven for one and one-quarter hours. Brush the pastry with milk and as soon as it browns lightly cover with a pie plate to prevent taking on too deep a color.

FISH SOUFFLE

This dainty dish is made by rubbing one-half cup of cold boiled fish through a fine sieve. Then add

One cup of cold cream sauce,
One tablespoon of salt,
One teaspoon of paprika,
One-half teaspoon of mustard,
Three tablespoons of finely chopped parsley,
One tablespoon of Worcestershire sauce,
Yolk of two eggs.

Beat hard to mix and then carefully fold in the stiffly beaten whites of two eggs. Pour into well-greased custard cups and then set the cups in a pan containing warm water, and bake in a moderate oven until firm in the centre, usually about twenty minutes.

FISH LOAF

Two cups of cold boiled fish,
One cup of prepared bread crumbs,
One cup of thick cream sauce,
One and one-half teaspoons of salt,
One teaspoon of paprika,
Two teaspoons of grated onions,
One green pepper, minced fine,
One well-beaten egg.

Mix and then pack into the prepared loaf-shaped pan. Stand this pan in a larger one containing hot water. Bake in a moderate oven for fifty minutes. Remove from the oven and let stand for a few minutes. Then unmould on a hot platter and serve with creole sauce.

To prepare the crumbs, soak stale bread in cold water; then place in a cloth and squeeze dry. Rub through a fine sieve and then measure.

To prepare the pan, grease the pan and then line it with a greased and floured paper.

BOILED SALT COD

Soak one and one-quarter pounds of boneless salt cod for four hours and then drain and wipe in a piece of cheese-cloth and plunge in a deep saucepan containing sufficient boiling water to cover the fish. Bring to a boil and then cook for thirty-five minutes. Lift and drain well and place on a hot platter. Cover with two cupfuls of cream sauce and garnish with one-quarter cupful of finely minced parsley and then sprinkle with two tablespoonfuls of grated cheese.

CONNECTICUT FISH CHOWDER

Any cheap fish that is fresh will do for this dish, or it may be made from the heads, fins and backbones of the fish, used for filets or broiling. Place the heads, fins and backbones of three medium-sized fish in a deep saucepan and add

Two quarts of cold water,
Two onions, cut fine,
One carrot, cut in tiny dice,
One-half bay leaf,
One-half teaspoon of thyme.

Cover and bring to a boil. Cook slowly for one hour. Now remove the heads, fins and backbones and pick the meat from the heads and backbones and return to the stock.

Now rub one cup of stewed tomatoes through a sieve and add five tablespoons of cornstarch. Stir until the starch is dissolved and then add to the stock. Bring quickly to a boil and add:

Two cups of diced and par-boiled potatoes,
Salt and pepper to taste,
Two tablespoons of butter,
Two tablespoons of finely chopped parsley.

Let boil up once and then serve. This is delicious. One pound of fish may be used in place of heads, fins and backbones.

FISH CUTLET

Place in a mixing bowl

Two cups of flaked cold fish,
One and one-half cups of prepared stale bread,
Two onions grated,
Four tablespoons of finely chopped parsley,
One tablespoon of salt,
One teaspoon of paprika,
One tablespoon of Worcestershire sauce,
One-half teaspoon of mustard,
One well-beaten egg.

Mix thoroughly and then shape into cutlets. Roll in flour and then dip in beaten egg, and then into fine bread crumbs. Fry in hot fat.

To prepare the bread, soak stale bread in warm water until soft. Place in a cloth and then squeeze until very dry; then rub through a colander to remove the lumps. Fish cutlets are served with a menu, as follows:

SALMON CHARTREUSE

Open a can of salmon and then drain. Remove the skin and bones and flake with a fork. Soak three tablespoons of gelatine in one-half cup of cold water and then place in a saucepan

Two tablespoons of finely chopped onion,
Two tablespoons of finely chopped parsley,
Two tablespoons of carrots,
Faggot of soup herbs,
Two cups of water.

Bring to a boil and cook slowly for ten minutes. Strain and then add

The juice of one-half lemon,
One and one-quarter teaspoons of salt,
One teaspoon of paprika,

and the dissolved gelatine.

Mix thoroughly and then cool and add the prepared salmon.

One tablespoon of grated onion,
Three tablespoons of finely chopped parsley.

Pour into a mould that has been rinsed with cold water and chilled on ice. Set in a cool place to mould. When ready to serve unmould on a bed of lettuce and serve with Russian dressing. This may be prepared Saturday afternoon.

BROILED SALT MACKEREL, FLEMISH STYLE

Soak the mackerel overnight in plenty of cold water to cover, keeping the skin side up. In the morning remove the head and then wash and parboil. Drain and then place on a baking dish and spread lightly with bacon or ham fat and dust lightly with flour. Place in the broiler of the gas range and broil until nicely browned. Now, while the mackerel is cooking, prepare a Flemish sauce as follows:

One onion,
One green pepper,
Two branches of parsley.

Chop very fine and then place in a saucepan with three tablespoons of butter. Cover closely and steam until the vegetables are soft. Now add:

One tablespoon of vinegar,
One teaspoon of sugar,
One-half teaspoon of mustard,
One teaspoon of pumpkin,
Two tablespoons of boiling water.

Bring to a boil and pour over the fish. Garnish with cress.

SALT COD, VERMONT

Select a thick centre; cut and soak for one hour in warm water. Wrap in a piece of cheese-cloth and plunge into boiling water. Boil for fifteen minutes and then drain. Divide into four individual baking dishes and cover with cream sauce. Sprinkle with fine bread crumbs and a little grated onion, and bake for ten minutes in a hot oven.

MEATS

In order to purchase meats intelligently so that we will receive the best value for money expended, it is necessary to know the nature of the cuts, and especially the proportionate amounts of lean meat, fat and bone that they contain; also the approximate food values of the meat obtained from various parts of the carcass.

HIND QUARTERS

Loin steak average 57 per cent. lean, 33 per cent. visible fat, 10 per cent. bone. Sirloin steaks in general contain a larger percentage of lean meat and a smaller amount of fat than the porterhouse or club steaks.

Rib cuts contain 52 per cent. lean meat, 31 per cent. fat, 17 per cent. bone. The greatest percentage of lean meat is found in the sixth rib, and the smallest in the eleventh and twelfth rib cuts.

Round steaks are meat cut from the round. They average 67 per cent. lean meat, 20 per cent. fat and 16 per cent. bone. The round steaks contain 73 per cent. to 84 per cent. lean meat.

The rump contains 49 per cent. lean meat, the round as a pot roast contains about 86 per cent. lean meat; the largest percentage of fat is found in the rump roast. Soup bones contain from 8 per cent. to 60 per cent. lean meat.

THE FOREQUARTERS

The forequarters of beef contain the chuck, the shoulder, clod, neck and shank. The chuck contains 67 per cent. lean meat, 20 per cent. fat and 12 per cent. bone. Chuck steak varies from 60 per cent. to 80 per cent. lean and from 8 per cent, to 24 per cent. fat.

The clod or bolar cut contains 82 per cent. lean meat and 5 per cent. bone.

Relatively more lean and less fat meat is found in the chuck rib roast than in the cut from the prime rib roast.

The navel, brisket and rib ends average 52 per cent. lean meat, 40 per cent. fat and 8 per cent. bone. The brisket and navel cuts are similar in proportion, while the rib ends slightly higher in percentage of bone and less lean.

Flank steak contains 85 per cent. lean meat and 15 per cent. fat. Shank cuts or soup bones from the shank vary from 15 per cent. to 67 per cent. lean meat and from 25 per cent. to 76 per cent. bone, while the boneless shank, used for stews, goulashes, hashes and minces, contain 85 per cent. lean meat and 15 per cent. fat.

The trimmings from the loin, in steaks reduce their weights about 13 per cent. and these trimmings average 4.6 per cent. fat and 2 per cent. bone. Round steak is reduced about 7 per cent. in weight in trimmings, principally in fat; chuck steaks about 6-1/2 per cent., principally bone.

Rump, shoulder, pot roast and neck are all materially reduced in weight by fat and bone trimmings, the size and condition of the animal determining the actual amounts. The actual proportion of lean meat, fat and bone in the various cuts, their relative values of economy, fixes the prices to the consumer.

Taking the cuts of meat in their right order we have:

First, the neck for soup, stews and corning. The cost is very low and the waste is considerable.

Second, the chuck. This includes the entire shoulder and contains five ribs. The first two ribs are usually sold as shoulder, roast and steak, and while they are about the same quality as No. 9, they cost considerably less.

Third, the shoulder clod. This is part of the chuck and can be purchased in almost all markets. The price is low and there is no waste. It is used principally for steaks and pot roasts. When used for steaks, score the meat well.

Fourth, shank. According to the market price, this is the cheapest part of the beef. However, it contains 54 per cent. to 57 per cent. waste and requires long cooking. It is used for soups and stews.

Fifth, ribs. Contains eight ribs; five of these are the prime cuts and used for roasting exclusively.

Sixth, sirloin. The loin, some cuts contain as low as 3 per cent, waste. The sirloin is tender; therefore, quickly and easily cooked. For this reason it is one of the most popular cuts.