Chapter XXX: Front Matter (30)

All sorts of Lettice are spent in sallets, with oyle and
vinegar, or as euery one please, for the most part, while they
are fresh and greene, or whited, as is declared of some of
the sorts before, to cause them to eate the more delicate and
tender. They are also boyled, to serue for many sorts of dishes
of meate, as the Cookes know best.

They all coole a hot and fainting stomacke.

The iuice of Lettice applyed with oyle of Roses to the
foreheads of the sicke and weake wanting sleepe, procureth
rest, and taketh away paines in the head: bound likewise to the
cods, it helpeth those that are troubled with the Colts euill.
If a little camphire be added, it restraineth immoderate lust:
but it is hurtfull to such as are troubled with the shortnesse
of breath.

Lambes Lettice is wholly spent for sallets, in the beginning of
the yeare, as I said, before any almost of the other sorts of
Lettice are to be had.

CHAP. XXXI.

_Portulaca._ Purslane.

Purslane hath many thicke round shining red stalkes, full of iuice, lying vpon the ground for the most part; whereon are set diuers long, thicke, pale green leaues, sometimes alone by themselues, and sometimes many small ones together with them; among which grow small yellow flowers, which stand in little greene huskes, containing blacke seede: the roote is small, and perisheth euery yeare, and must be new sowen in Aprill, in the alleyes of the Garden betweene the beds, as some haue heretofore vsed, where it may haue the more moisture, or, as I haue seene in some Gardens, vpon those beds of dung that Gardiners haue vsed to nourse vp their Cowcumbers, Melons, and Pompions, whereon after they haue been taken away, they haue sowen Purslane, where if it be much watered, the warmth of the dung, and the water giuen it, the Purslane hath grown great and large, and continued vntill winter.

The Vse of Purslane.

It is vsed as Lettice in sallets, to coole hot and faint
stomackes in the hot time of the yeare, but afterwards if only
for delight, it is not good to bee too prodigall in the vse
thereof.

The seede of Purslane doth coole much any inflammation inward
or outward, and doth a little binde withall.

CHAP. XXXII.

_Dracoherba siue Tarchon & Dracunculus hortensis._ Tarragon.

Tarragon hath long and narrow darke greene leaues, growing on slender and brittle round stalkes, two or three foote high, at the tops whereof grow forth long slender spikes of small yellowish flowers, which seldome giue any good seede, but a dustie or chaffie matter, which flieth away with the winde: the roote is white, and creepeth about vnder ground, whereby it much encreaseth: the whole herbe is of a hot and biting taste.

The Vse of Tarragon.

It is altogether vsed among other cold herbes, to temper their
coldnesse, and they to temper its heate, so to giue the better
rellish vnto the Sallet; but many doe not like the taste
thereof, and so refuse it.

There are some Authors that haue held Tarragon not to be an
herbe of it owne kinde, but that it was first produced, by
putting the seede of Lin or Flaxe into the roote of an Onion,
being opened and so set into the ground, which when it hath
sprung, hath brought forth this herbe Tarragon, which absurd
and idle opinion, Matthiolus by certaine experience saith, hath
been found false.

CHAP. XXXIII.

_Nasturtium hortense._ Garden Cresses.

Garden Cresses growe vp to the height of two foote or thereabouts, hauing many small, whitish, broad, endented, torne leaues, set together vpon a middle ribbe next the ground, but those that growe higher vpon the stalkes are smaller and longer: the tops of the stalkes are stored with white flowers, which turne into flat pods or pouches, like vnto Shepheard purse, wherein is contained flat reddish seede: the roote perisheth euery yeare: the taste both of leaues and seedes are somewhat strong, hot, and bitter.

The Vse of Cresses.

The Dutchmen and others vse to eate Cresses familiarly with
their butter and bread, as also stewed or boyled, either alone
or with other herbes, whereof they make a Hotch potch, and so
eate it. Wee doe eate it mixed among Lettice or Purslane, and
sometimes with Tarragon or Rocket, with oyle and vinegar and a
little salt, and in that manner it is very sauoury to some mens
stomackes.

The vse of Cresses physically is, it helpeth to expectorate
tough flegme, as also for the paines of the breast; and as it
is thought taketh away spots, being laid to with vinegar. The
seede is giuen of many to children for the wormes.

1 _Portulaca._ Purslane.
2 _Dracho herba seu Tarchon._ Tarragon.
3 _Eruca satiua._ Garden Rocket.
4 _Nasturtium sativum._ Garden Cresses.
5 _Sinapi._ Mustard.
6 _Asparagus._ Asparagus or Sperage.
]

CHAP. XXXIIII.

_Eruca satiua._ Garden Rocket.

Ovr Garden Rocket is but a wilde kinde brought into Gardens; for the true Romane Rocket hath larger leaues; this hath many long leaues, much torne or rent on the edges, smaller and narrower then the Romane kinde: the flowers hereof are of a pale yellowish colour, whereas the true is whitish, consisting of foure leaues: the seede of this is reddish, contained in smaller and longer pods then the true, which are shorter and thicker, and the seede of a whitish yellow colour: the rootes of both perish as soone as they haue giuen seede. Some haue taken one sort of the wilde kinde for Mustard, and haue vsed the seede for the same purpose.

The Vse of Rocket.

It is for the most part eaten with Lettice, Purslane, or such
cold herbes, and not alone, because of its heate and strength;
but that with the white seede is milder. The seede of Rocket is
good to prouoke vrine, and to stirre vp bodily lust.

The seede bruised, and mixed with a little vinegar, and of the
gall of an Oxe, cleanseth the face of freckles, spots, and blew
markes, that come by beatings, fals, or otherwaies.

Matthiolus saith, that the leaues boyled, and giuen with some
Sugar to little children, cureth them of the cough.

The seede is held to be helpfull to spleneticke persons; as
also to kill the wormes of the belly.

CHAP. XXXV.

_Sinapi sativum._ Garden Mustard.

The Mustard that is most vsuall in this Country, howsoeuer diuers doe for their priuate vses sowe it in their Gardens or Orchards, in some conuenient corner, yet the same is found wilde also abroad in many places. It hath many rough long diuided leaues, of an ouerworne greene colour: the stalke is diuided at the toppe into diuers branches, whereon growe diuers pale yellow flowers, in a great length, which turne into small long pods, wherein is contained blackish seede, inclining to rednesse, of a fiery sharpe taste: the roote is tough and white, running deepe into the ground, with many small fibres at it.

The Vse of Mustard.

The seede hereof grownd between two stones, fitted for the
purpose, and called a Querne, with some good vinegar added vnto
it, to make it liquid and running, is that kinde of Mustard
that is vsually made of all sorts, to serue as sawce both for
fish and flesh.

The same liquid Mustard is of good vse, being fresh, for
Epilepticke persons, to warme and quicken those dull spirits
that are sopite and scarce appeare, if it be applyed both
inwardly and outwardly.

It is with good successe also giuen to those that haue short
breathes, and troubled with a cough in the lungs.

CHAP. XXXVI.

_Asparagus._ Sperage or Asparagus.

Asparagus riseth vp at the first with diuers whitish greene scaly heads, very brittle or easie to breake while they are young, which afterwards rise vp into very long and slender greene stalkes, of the bignesse of an ordinary riding wand at the bottome of most, or bigger or lesser, as the rootes are of growth, on which are set diuers branches of greene leaues, shorter and smaller then Fennell vp to the toppe, at the ioynts whereof come forth small mossie yellowish flowers, which turne into round berries, greene at the first, and of an excellent red colour when they are ripe, shewing as if they were beades of Corrall, wherein are contained exceeding hard and blacke seede: the rootes are dispersed from a spongious head into many long, thicke, and round strings, whereby it sucketh much nourishment out of the ground, and encreaseth plentifully thereby.

We haue another kinde hereof that is of much greater account, because the shootes are larger, whiter, and being dressed taste more sweete and pleasant, without any other difference.

The Vse of Asparagus.

The first shootes or heads of Asparagus are a Sallet of as much
esteeme with all sorts of persons, as any other whatsoeuer,
being boyled tender, and eaten with butter, vinegar, and
pepper, or oyle and vinegar, or as euery ones manner doth
please; and are almost wholly spent for the pleasure of the
pallate. It is specially good to prouoke vrine, and for those
that are troubled with the stone or grauell in the reines or
kidneyes, because it doth a little open and cleanse those parts.

CHAP. XXXVII.

_Brassica._ Cabbages and Coleworts.

There is greater diuersity in the forme and colour of the leaues of this plant, then there is in any other that I know groweth vpon the ground. But this place requireth not the knowledge of all sorts which might be shewen, many of them being of no vse with vs for the table, but for delight, to behold the wonderfull variety of the workes of God herein. I will here therefore shew you onely those sorts that are ordinary in most Gardens, and some that are rare, receiued into some especiall Gardens: And first of Cabbages, and then of Coleworts.

Our ordinary Cabbage that closeth hard and round, hath at the first great large thicke leaues, of a grayish greene colour, with thicke great ribbes, and lye open most part of the Summer without closing, but toward the end of Summer, being growne to haue many leaues, it then beginneth to growe close and round in the middle, and as it closeth, the leaues growe white inward; yet there be some kindes that will neuer be so close as these, but will remaine halfe open, which wee doe not account to be so good as the other: in the middle of this head, the next yeare after the sowing, in other Countries especially, and sometimes in ours, if the Winter be milde, as may be seene in diuers Gardens (but to preuent the danger of our Winter frosts, our Gardiners now doe vse to take vp diuers Cabbages with their rootes, and tying a cloth or some such thing about the rootes, doe hang them vp in their houses, where they may be defended from cold, and then set them againe after the frosts are past) and then there shooteth out a great thicke stalke, diuided at the toppe into many branches, bearing thereon diuers small flowers, sometime white, but most commonly yellow, made of foure leaues, which turne into long, round, and pointed pods, containing therein small round seede, like vnto Turnep seede: the roote spreadeth not farre nor deepe, and dyeth vsually in any great froste; for a small frost maketh the Cabbage eate the tenderer.

The red Cabbage is like vnto the white, last spoken of, but differing in colour and greatnesse; for it is seldome found so great as the white, and the colour of the leaues is very variable, as being in some stript with red, in others more red, or very deepe red or purple.

The sugar loafe Cabbage, so called because it is smaller at the toppe then it is at the bottome, and is of two sorts, the one white, the other greene.

The Sauoy Cabbadge, one is of a deepe greene coloured leafe, and curld when it is to be gathered; the other is yellowish: neyther of both these doe close so well as the first, but yet are vsed of some, and accounted good.

The Cole flower is a kinde of Coleworte, whose leaues are large, and like the Cabbage leaues, but somewhat smaller, and endented about the edges, in the middle wherof, sometimes in the beginning of Autumne, and sometimes much sooner, there appeareth a hard head of whitish yellow tufts of flowers, closely thrust together, but neuer open, nor spreading much with vs, which then is fittest to be vsed, the green leaues being cut away close to the head: this hath a much pleasanter taste then eyther the Coleworte, or Cabbage of any kinde, and is therefore of the more regard and respect at good mens tables.

The ordinary Coleworte is sufficiently knowne not to close or cabbage, and giueth seede plentifully enough.

The other Colewortes that are noursed vp with those that delight in curiosities, besides the aforesaid ordinary greene, which is much vsed of Dutchmen, and other strangers, are these: The Curld Coleworte eyther wholly of a greene colour, or of diuers colours in one plant, as white, yellow, red, purple or crimson, so variably mixed, the leaues being curld on the edges, like a ruffe band, that it is very beautifull to behold.

There is also another curld Colewort of lesse beauty and respect, being but a little curld on the edges, whose leaues are white, edged with red, or green edged with white.

Two other there are, the one of a popingaye greene colour: the other of a fine deepe greene, like vnto the Sauoyes.

Then there is the Cole rape, which is also a kinde of Coleworte, that beareth a white heade, or headed stalke aboue the ground, as bigge as a reasonable Turnep, but longer, and from the toppe thereof springeth out diuers great leaues, like vnto Colewortes; among which rise diuers stalkes that beare yellow flowers, and seede in pods, almost as small as Mustard seede: the roote is somewhat long, and very bushie with threds.

The Vse of Cabbages and Colewortes.

They are most vsually boyled in poudered beefe broth vntil they
be tender, and then eaten with much fat put among them.

The great ribs of the Popingay, and deepe greene Colewortes,
beeing boyled and layde into dishes, are serued to the table
with oyle and vinegar in the Lent time for very good sallets.

In the cold Countries of Russia and Muscouia, they pouder vp
a number of Cabbages, which serue them, especially the poorer
sort, for their most ordinary foode in winter; and although
they stinke most grieuously, yet to them they are accounted
good meate.

It is thought, that the vse of them doth hinder the milke
in Nurses breasts, causing it to dry vp quickely: but many
women that haue giuen sucke to my knowledge haue denyed that
assertion, affirming that they haue often eaten them, and found
no such effect. How it might proue in more delicate bodies then
theirs that thus said, I cannot tell but Matthiolus auerreth
it to encrease milke in Nurses breastes; so differing are the
opinions of many. The seede grossely bruised and boyled a
little in flesh broth, is a present remedie for the Collicke;
the seede and the broth being taken together, easing them that
are troubled therewith of all griping paines: as also for
the stone in the kidneyes. A Lohoc or licking Electuary made
of the pulpe of the boyled stalkes, and a little honey and
Almond milke, is very profitable for shortnesse of breath, and
those that are entering into a Consumption of the lunges. It
hath beene formerly held to be helpefull in all diseases: for
Crisippus, an ancient Physitian, wrote a whole Volume of the
vertues, applying it to all the parts of the body: which thing
neede not seeme wonderfull, in that it is recorded by writers,
that the old Romanes hauing expelled Physitians out of their
Common-wealth, did for many hundred of yeares maintaine their
health by the vse of Cabbages, taking them for euery disease.

1 _Brassica capitata._ Close Cabbage.
2 _Brassica patula._ Open Cabbage.
3 _Brassica Sabaudica crispa._ Curld Sauoye. Colewort.
4 _Caulis florida._ Cole flower.
5 _Caulis crispa._ Curld Colewort.
6 _Caulis crispa variata._ Changeable Curld Colewort.
7 _Rapocaulis._ Cole rape.
]

CHAP. XXXVIII.

_Sisarum._ Skirrets.

After all the herbes before rehearsed, fit for sallets, or otherwise to bee eaten, there must follow such rootes as are vsed to the same purpose: and first, Skirrets haue many leaues next the ground, composed of many small smooth green leaues, set each against other vpon a middle ribbe, and euery one snipt about the edges: the stalke riseth vp two or three foote high, set with the like leaues, hauing at the toppe spoakie tufts of white flowers, which turne into small seede, somewhat bigger and darker then Parsley seede: the rootes be many growing together at one head, beeing long, slender, & rugged or vneuen, of a whitish colour on the outside, and more white within, hauing in the middle of the roote a long small hard pith or string: these heads are vsually taken vp in February and March, or sooner if any so please, the greater number of them being broken off to bee vsed, the rest are planted againe after the heads are separated, and hereby they are encreased euery yeare by many; but it is now adayes more sowen of the seed, which come forwards well enough if the ground be fat and good.

The Vse of Skirrets.

The rootes being boyled, peeled and pithed, are stewed with
butter, pepper and salt, and so eaten; or as others vse them,
to roule them in flower, and fry them with butter, after they
haue beene boyled, peeled and pithed: each way, or any way that
men please to vse them, they may finde their taste to be very
pleasant, far beyond any Parsnep, as all agree that taste them.

Some doe vse also to eate them as a sallet, colde with vinegar,
oyle, &c. being first boyled and dressed as before said. They
doe helpe to prouoke vrine, and as is thought, to procure
bodily lust, in that they are a little windy.

CHAP. XXXIX.

_Pastinaca satiua latifolia._ Parsneps.

The common garden Parsnep hath diuers large winged leaues lying vpon the ground, that is, many leaues set one by another on both sides of a middle stalk, somewhat like as the Skirret hath, but much larger, and closer set: the stalke riseth vp great and tall, fiue or six foot high sometimes, with many such leaues thereon at seuerall ioynts; the top whereof is spread into diuers branches, whereon stand spoakie rundles of yellow flowers, which turne into brownish flat seede: the root is long, great and white, very pleasant to bee eaten, and the more pleasant if it grow in a fat sandy soyle.

There is another sort of garden Parsnep, called the Pine Parsnep, that is not common in euery Garden, and differeth from the former in three notable parts. The root is not so long, but thicker at the head and smaller below; the stalke is neither so bigge, nor so high; and the seede is smaller: yet as Iohn Tradescante saith (who hath giuen me the relation of this, and many other of these garden plants, to whom euery one is a debtor) the roote hereof is not altogether so pleasant as the other.

Moreouer the wilde kinde, which groweth in many places of England (and wherof in some places there might be gathered a quarter sacke full of the seede) if it be sowen in Gardens, and there well ordered, will proue as good as the former kinde of Garden Parsneps.

1 _Sisarum._ Skirrets.
2 _Pastinaca latifolia._ Parsneps.
3 _Pastinaca tenuifolia._ Carrets.
4 _Rapum._ Turneps.
5 _Napus sativus._ Navewes.
6 _Raphanus niger._ Blacke Raddish.
7 _Raphanus vulgaris._ Common Raddish.
]

The Vse of Parsneps.

The Parsnep root is a great nourisher, and is much more vsed in
the time of Lent, being boyled and stewed with butter, then in
any other time of the yeare; yet it is very good all the winter
long. The seede helpeth to dissolue winde, and to prouoke vrine.

CHAP. XL.

_Pastina satiua tenuifolia._ Carrots.

The Carrot hath many winged leaues, rising from the head of the roote, which are much cut and diuided into many other leaues, and they also cut and diuided into many parts, of a deepe greene colour, some whereof in Autumne will turne to be of a fine red or purple (the beautie whereof allureth many Gentlewomen oftentimes to gather the leaues, and sticke them in their hats or heads, or pin them on their armes in stead of feathers): the stalke riseth vp among the leaues, bearing many likewise vpon it, but nothing so high as the Parsnep, being about three foote high, bearing many spoakie tufts of white flowers, which turne into small rough seede, as if it were hairy, smelling reasonable well if it bee rubbed: the roote is round and long, thicke aboue and small below, eyther red or yellow, eyther shorter or longer, according to his kinde; for there is one kinde, whose roote is wholly red quite thoroughout; another whose roote is red without for a pretty way inward, but the middle is yellow.

Then there is the yellow, which is of two sorts, both long and short: One of the long yellow sorts, which is of a pale yellow, hath the greatest and longest roote, and likewise the greatest head of greene, and is for the most part the worst, being spongy, and not firme.

The other is of a deepe gold yellow colour, and is the best, hauing a smaller head, or tuft of greene leaues vpon it.

The shorte rootes are likewise distinguished, into pale and deepe yellow colours.

The Vse of Carrots.

All these sorts being boyled in the broth of beefe, eyther
fresh or salt, but more vsually of salted beefe, are eaten with
great pleasure, because of the sweetenesse of them: but they
nourish lesse then Parsneps or Skirrets.

I haue not often knowne the seede of this Garden kinde to bee
vsed in Physicke: but the wilde kinde is often and much vsed to
expell winde, &c.

CHAP. XLI.

_Rapum hortense._ Turneps.

There are diuers sorts of Turneps, as white, yellow, and red: the white are the most common, and they are of two kinds, the one much sweeter then the other.

The yellow and the red are more rare, and noursed vp only by those that are curious: as also the Navewe, which is seene but with very few.

The ordinary Garden Turnep hath many large, and long rough greene leaues, with deepe and vneuen gashes on both sides of them: the stalke riseth vp among the leaues about two foote high, spread at the toppe into many branches, bearing thereon yellow flowers, which turne into long pods, with blackish round seede in them: the roote is round and white, some greater, some smaller; the best kinde is knowne to be flat, with a small pigges tale-like roote vnderneath it; the worser kinde which is more common in many places of this land, both North and West, is round, and not flat, with a greater pigges tayle-like roote vnderneath.

The yellow kinde doth often grow very great, it is hardly discerned from the ordinary kinde while it groweth, but by the greatnesse and spreading of the leaues beeing boyled, the roote changeth more yellow, somewhat neare the colour of a Carrot.

The red Turnep groweth vsually greater then any of the other, especially in a good ground, being of a faire red colour on the outside, but being pared, as white as any other on the inside. This, as Matthiolus saith, doth grow in the Countrey of Anania, where hee hath seene an infinite number of them that haue waighed fifty pound a peece, and in some places hee saith, a hundred pound a peece, both which we would thinke to be incredible, but that we see the kind is greatly giuen to grow, and in warme Countries they may so thriue, that the bulke or bignesse of the roote may so farre passe the growth of our Countrey, as that it may rise to that quantity aboue specified.

The Navew gentle is of two kindes, a smaller and a greater; the smaller is vsually called in France, _Naveau de Cane_, the roote is somewhat long with the roundnesse; this kinde is twice as bigge as a mans thumbe, and many of them lesse: The other is long and great, almost as big as the short Carrot, but for the most part of an vneuen length, and roundnesse vnto the very end, where it spreadeth into diuers small long fibres: neyther of them doth differ much from the Turnep, in leafe, flower or seed.

The Vse of Turneps.

Being boyled in salt broth, they all of them eate most kindly,
and by reason of their sweetnesse are much esteemed, and often
seene as a dish at good mens tables: but the greater quantitie
of them are spent at poore mens feasts. They nourish much, and
engender moist and loose flesh, and are very windy. The seede
of the Navew gentle is (as I take it) called of Andromachus
in the composition of his Treakle, _Bunias dulcis_: for
Dioscorides and Plinie doe both say, that the seede of the tame
Bunias or Napus is put into Antidotes, and not the seede of
the wilde, which is more sharpe and bitter; neyther the seede
of the Turnep, which is called in Greeke γογγύλη, in Latine
_Rapum_, because the seede is not sweete.

CHAP. XLII.

_Raphanus._ Raddish.

There are two principall kindes of Garden Raddish, the one is blackish on the outside, and the other white; and of both these there is some diuision againe, as shall be shewed. Dittander and horse Raddish be reckoned kinds thereof.

The ordinary Raddish hath long leaues, vneuenly gashed on both sides, the stalke riseth vp to the height of three or foure foote, bearing many purplish flowers at the top, made of foure leaues a peece, which turne into thicke and short pods, wherein are contained round seede, greater then Turnep or Coleworte seede, and of a pale reddish colour: the roote is long, white, and of a reddish purple colour on the outside toward the toppe of it, and of a sharpe biting taste.

There is a small kind of Raddish that commeth earlier then the former, that we haue had out of the low Countries, not differing in any thing else.

The blacke Raddish I haue had brought me out of the lowe Countries, where they sell them in some places by the pound, and is accounted with them a rare winter sallet: the roote of the best kinde is blackish on the outside (and yet the seede gathered from such an one, hath after the sowing againe, giuen rootes, whereof some haue beene blacke, but the most part white on the outside) and white within, great and round at the head, almost like a Turnep, but ending shorter then a Raddish, and longer then a Turnep, almost peare-fashion, of a firmer and harder substance then the ordinary Raddish, but no lesse sharpe and biting, and somewhat strong withall; the leaues are somewhat smaller, and with deeper gashes, the flower and seede are like the former, but smaller.

Another sort of blacke Raddish is like in leafe and seede to the former, but the flower is of a lighter purple colour: the roote is longer and smaller, and changeth also to bee white as the former doth, so that I thinke they haue both risen from one kinde.

The Horse Raddish is a kinde of wilde Raddish, but brought into Gardens for the vse of it, and hath great large and long greene leaues, which are not so much diuided, but dented about the edges: the roote is long and great, much stronger in taste then the former, and abideth diuers yeares, spreading with branches vnder ground.

Dittander is likewise a wilde kinde hereof, hauing long pointed blewish greene leaues, and a roote that creepeth much vnder ground: I confesse this might haue bin placed among the herbes, because the leaues and not the rootes are vsed; but let it passe now with the kindes of Raddish.

The Vse of these Raddishes.

Raddishes doe serue vsually as a _stimulum_ before meat, giuing
an appetite thereunto; the poore eate them alone with bread and
salt. Some that are early sowen, are eaten in Aprill, or sooner
if the season permit; others come later; and some are sowen
late to serue for the end of Summer: but (as of all things
else) the earlier are the more accepted.

The blacke Raddishes are most vsed in the winter, (yet some in
their naturall and not forc’d grounds, haue their rootes good
most part of the Summer) and therefore must bee sowen after
Midsomer; for if they should bee sowen earlier, they would
presently runne vp to stalke and seed, and so lose the benefit
of the roote. The Physicall propertie is, it is often vsed in
medicines that helpe to breake the stone, and to auoyde grauell.

The Horse Raddish is vsed Physically, very much in
Melancholicke, Spleneticke and Scorbuticke diseases. And some
vse to make a kinde of Mustard with the rootes, and eate it
with fish.

Dittander or Pepperworte is vsed of some cold churlish
stomackes, as a sawce or sallet sometimes to their meate, but
it is too hot, bitter and strong for weake and tender stomackes.

Our Gardiners about London vse great fences of reede tyed
together, which seemeth to bee a mat set vpright, and is as
good as a wall to defend the cold from those things that would
be defended, and to bring them forwards the earlier.

CHAP. XLIII.

_Cepæ._ Onions.

1 _Raphanus rusticanus._ Horse Raddish.
2 _Lepidium siue Piperitis._ Dittander.
3 _Cepæ rotunda._ Round Onions.
4 _Cepæ longæ._ Long Onions.
5 _Porrum._ Leekes.
6 _Allium._ Garlicke.
7 _Rapunculus._ Rampions.
8 _Tragopogon._ Goates beard.
]

Wee haue diuers sorts of Onions, both white and red, flat, round and long, as shall be presently shewed: But I will doe with these as I doe with the rest, only giue you one description for them all, and afterwards their seuerall names and varieties, as they are to be known by.

Our common Garden Onion hath diuers long greene hollow leaues, seeming halfe flat; among which riseth vp a great round hollow stalke, bigger in the middle then any where else, at the toppe whereof standeth a close round head, couered at the first with a thin skinne, which breaketh when the head is growne, and sheweth forth a great vmbell of white flowers, which turne into blacke seede: but then the head is so heauie that the stalke cannot sustaine it, but must be vpheld from falling to the ground, lest it rot and perish: the roote as all know is round, in some greater, in others lesser, or flat, in some red on the outside only, in others quite thorough out, in some white, and very sharpe and strong, in others milder, and more pleasant, and some so pleasant that they may be eaten as an Apple: All these kinds of Onions, contrary to the nature of all other bulbous rootes, haue no off-set, or other roote growing to it, but are euery one alone single by themselues; and therefore it seemeth, the Latines, as Columella recordeth, haue giuen it the name _Vnio_, and the French it should seeme following the Latine, and the English the French, do call it _Oignon_ and _Onion_, as an vnite, or as if they were but one and one, and dye euery yeare after seed bearing.

The red flat kinde is most vsually with vs the strongest of them all, yet I haue had a great red Onion brought mee from beyond Sea, that was as great almost as two mens fistes, flat and red quite thoroughout, and very pleasant both to smell vnto, and to eate, but did quickly degenerate; so that we plainly see, that the soyle and climate doth giue great alteration to plants of all sorts.

The long kinde wee call St. Omers Onions, and corruptly among the vulgar, St. Thomas Onions.

The other red kinde we call Strasborough Onions, whose outside onely is red, and are very sharpe and fierce.

The white Onions both long and flat, are like vnto Chalke-stones lying vpon the ground, when they are ripe and fit to be gathered.

And lastly, there is the Spanish Onion, both long and flat, very sweete, and eaten by many like an apple, but as Iohn Tradescante saith, who hath beene in Spaine, that the Spaniards themselues doe not eate them so familiarly, as they doe those white Onions that come out of our owne Countrey, which they haue there more plentifully then their sweete Onions.

The Vse of Onions.

Onions are vsed many wayes, as sliced and put into pottage, or
boyled and peeled and layde in dishes for sallets at supper,
or sliced and put into water, for a sawce for mutton or
oysters, or into meate roasted being stuffed with Parsly, and
so many waies that I cannot recount them, euery one pleasing
themselues, according to their order, manner or delight.

Onions boyled or rosted vnder the embers, and mixed with sugar
and butter, are good for those that are troubled with coughes,
shortnesse of breath, and wheesing. An Onion made hollow at the
bottome, and some good Treakle put into it, with a little iuyce
of Citrons (or Lemons in the stead thereof) being well baked
together vnder the embers, after the hole is stopped againe,
and then strained forth, and giuen to one that hath the plague,
is very helpefull, so as hee be laid to sweate vpon it.

The iuice of Onions is much vsed to be applyed to any burnings
with fire, or with Gun-pouder, or to any scaldings with water
or oyle, and is most familiar for the Country, where vpon such
sudden occasions they haue not a more fit or speedy remedie at
hand: The strong smell of Onions, and so also of Garlicke and
Leekes, is quite taken away from offending the head or eyes, by
the eating of Parsley leaues after them.

CHAP. XLIIII.

_Porrum._ Leekes.

There be likewise sundry sorts of Leekes, both great and small. Leekes are very like vnto Onions, hauing long green hollow-like leaues, flattish on the one side, and with a ridge or crest on the backe side: if they bee suffered to grow vncut, then in the second or third yeare after the sowing, they will send forth a round and slender stalke, euen quite throughout, and not swollen or bigger in the middle like the Onion, bearing at the toppe a head of purplish flowers, and blacke seede after them, very like vnto Onion seede, that it is hard to distinguish them: the root is long and white, with a great bush of fibres hanging at it, which they call the beards.

The vnset Leeke hath longer and slenderer roots then the other, which being transplanted, groweth thicker and greater.

The French Leeke, which is called the Vine Leeke, is the best of all others.

Our common kinde is of two sorts, one greater then another.

Another sort encreaseth altogether by the roote, as Garlicke doth.

And then Ciues, which are the smallest, and encrease aboundantly only by the root.

Some doe account Scalions to be rather a kinde of Onions then Leekes, and call them _Cepa Ascalonica_, or _Ascalonitides_, which will quickly spend it selfe, if it be suffered to be vncut; but all Authors affirme, that there is no wilde kinde of Onion, vnlesse they would haue it to be _Gethyum_, whereof Theophrastus maketh mention, saying, that it hath a long necke (and so these Scalions haue) and was also of some called _Gethyllides_, which antiquity accounted to be dedicated to Latona, the mother of Apollo, because when she was bigge with childe of Apollo, she longed for these Leekes.

The Vse of Leekes.

The old World, as wee finde in Scripture, in the time of the
children of Israels being in Egypt, and no doubt long before,
fed much vpon Leekes, Onions, and Garlicke boyled with flesh;
and the antiquity of the Gentiles relate the same manner
of feeding on them, to be in all Countries the like, which
howsoeuer our dainty age now refuseth wholly, in all sorts
except the poorest; yet Muscouia and Russia vse them, and the
Turkes to this day, (as Bellonius writeth) obserue to haue
them among their dishes at their tables, yea although they
be _Bashas_, _Cades_, or _Vaiuodas_, that is to say, Lords,
Iudges, or Gouernours of countries and places. They are vsed
with vs also sometimes in Lent to make pottage, and is a great
and generall feeding in Wales with the vulgar Gentlemen.

Ciues are vsed as well to be shred among other herbes for the
pot, as to be put into a Sallet among other herbs, to giue it a
quicker relish.

Leekes are held to free the chest and lungs from much
corruption and rotten flegme, that sticketh fast therein, and
hard to be auoided, as also for them that through hoarsenesse
haue lost their voice, if they be eyther taken rawe, or boyled
with broth of barley, or some such other supping, fit and
conducing thereunto. And baked vnder hot embers is a remedy
against a surfeit of Mushromes.

The greene blades of Leekes being boyled and applyed warme to
the _Hemorrhoides_ or piles, when they are swolne and painfull,
giue a great deale of ease.

CHAP. XLV.

_Allium._ Garlicke.

I Haue spoken of diuers sorts of Garlicke called Moly, in the former booke: I shall neede in this place to shew onely those kindes, that this Garden nourseth vp, and leaue the rest to his fit time and place.

Garlicke hath many long greene leaues, like vnto Onions, but much larger, and not hollow at all as Onions are; the stalke riseth vp to be about three foote high, bearing such a head at the toppe thereof as Onions and Leekes doe, with purplish flowers, and blacke seede like Leekes: the roote is white within, couered ouer with many purplish skins, and is diuided into many parts or cloues, which serue both to set againe for increase, and also to vse as neede shall require, and is of a very strong smell and taste, as euery one knoweth, passing either Onions or Leekes, but exceeding wholsome withall for them that can take it.

_Allium Vrsinum._ Ramsons.

Ramsons are another kinde of Garlicke, and hath two or three faire broade leaues, of a fresh or light greene colour, pointed at the end: the stalke groweth about an hand length high, bearing many small and pure white starre-like flowers at the toppe, and afterwards small, blacke, and smooth round seede: the roote is also diuided into many parts, whereby it is much encreased, and is much milder then the former, both in smell and taste.

The Vse of Garlicke.

It being well boyled in salt broth, is often eaten of them
that haue strong stomackes, but will not brooke in a weake and
tender stomacke.

It is accounted, and so called in diuers Countries, The poore
mans Treakle, that is, a remedy for all diseases. It is neuer
eaten rawe of any man that I know, as other of the rootes
aforesaid, but sodden alwaies and so taken.

Ramsons are oftentimes eaten with bread and butter, and
otherwise also, as euery mans affection and course of life
leadeth him to vse.

CHAP. XLVI.

_Rapunculus siue Rapuntium._ Rampions.

Garden Rampions are of two sorts, the one greater, the other lesser: the leaues of Rampions are in the one somewhat broad like a Beete, in the other somewhat long and narrow, and a little broader at the end, of a light greene colour, lying flat vpon the ground all the first winter, or yeare of the springing, and the next Spring shooteth forth stalkes two or three foote high, bearing at the toppe, in the bigger sort, a long slender spike of small horned or crooked flowers, which open their brimmes into foure leaues; in the lesser many small purplish bels, standing vpon seuerall small foote-stalkes, which turne into heads, bearing small blackish seede: the root is white, branched into two or three rootes, of the bignesse and length of a mans finger or thumbe.

The Vse of Rampions.

The rootes of both are vsed for Sallets, being boyled, and then
eaten with oyle and vinegar, a little salt and pepper.

CHAP. XLVII.

_Tragopogon._ Goates beard.

Goates beard hath many long and narrow leaues, broader at the bottome, and sharper at the end, with a ridge downe the backe of the leafe, and of a pale greene colour; among which riseth vp a stalke of two or three foote high, smooth and hollow, bearing thereon many such like leaues, but smaller and shorter, and at the toppe thereof on euery branch a great double yellow flower, like almost vnto the flower of a Dandelion, which turneth into a head, stored with doune, and long whitish seede therein, hauing on the head of euery one some part of the doune, and is carried away with the winde if it bee neglected: the roote is long and round, somewhat like vnto a Parsnep, but farre smaller, blackish on the outside, and white within, yeelding a milkie iuyce being broken, as all the rest of the plant doth, and of a very good and pleasant taste. This kinde, as also another with narrower leaues, almost like grasse, growe wilde abroad in many places, but are brought into diuers Gardens. The other two kindes formerly described in the first part, the one with a purple flower, and the other with an ash-coloured, haue such rootes as these here described, and may serue also to the same purpose, being of equall goodnesse, if any will vse them in the same manner; that is, while they are young, and of the first yeares sowing, else they all growe hard, in running vp to seede.

The Vse of Goates beard.

If the rootes of any of these kindes being young, be boyled and
dressed as a Parsnep, they make a pleasant dish of meate, farre
passing the Parsnep in many mens iudgements, and that with
yellow flowers to be the best.

They are of excellent vse being in this manner prepared, or
after any other fit and conuenient way, to strengthen those
that are macilent, or growing into any consumption.

CHAP. XLVIII.

_Carum._ Carawayes.

Carawayes hath many very fine cut and diuided leaues lying on the ground, being alwaies greene, somewhat resembling the leaues of Carrots, but thinner, and more finely cut, of a quicke, hot, and spicie taste: the stalke riseth not much higher then the Carrot stalke, bearing some leaues at the ioynts along the stalke to the toppe, where it brancheth into three or foure parts, bearing spoakie vmbels of white flowers, which turne into small blackish seede, smaller then Aniseede, and of a hotter and quicker taste: the roote is whitish, like vnto a Parsnep, but much smaller, more spreading vnder ground, and a little quicke in taste, as all the rest of the plant is, and abideth long after it hath giuen seede.

The Vse of Carawayes.

The rootes of Carawayes being boyled may be eaten as Carrots,
and by reason of the spicie taste doth warme and comfort a cold
weake stomacke, helping to dissolue winde (whereas Carrots
engender it) and to prouoke vrine, and is a very welcome
and delightfull dish to a great many, yet they are somewhat
stronger in taste then Parsneps.

The seede is much vsed to bee put among baked fruit, or into
bread, cakes, &c. to giue them a rellish, and to helpe to
digest winde in them are subiect thereunto.

It is also made into Comfits, and put into _Trageas_, or as we
call them in English, Dredges, that are taken for the cold and
winde in the body, as also are serued to the table with fruit.

CHAP. XLIX.

_Pappas siue Battatas._ Potatoes.

Three sorts of Potatoes are well knowne vnto vs, but the fourth I rest doubtfull of, and dare not affirme it vpon such termes as are giuen vnto it, vntill I may be better informed by mine owne sight.

The Spanish kinde hath (in the Islands where they growe, either naturally, or planted for increase, profit, and vse of the Spaniards that nourse them) many firme and verie sweete rootes, like in shape and forme vnto Asphodill rootes, but much greater and longer, of a pale browne on the outside, and white within, set together at one head; from whence rise vp many long branches, which by reason of their weight and weaknesse, cannot stand of themselues, but traile on the ground a yard and a halfe in length at the least (I relate it, as it hath growne with vs, but in what other forme, for flower or fruit, we know not) whereon are set at seuerall distances, broad and in a manner three square leaues, somewhat like triangled Iuie leaues, of a darke greene colour, the two sides whereof are broad and round, and the middle pointed at the end, standing reasonable close together: thus much we haue seene growe with vs, and no more: the roote rather decaying then increasing in our country.

The Potatoes of Virginia, (Bauhinus vpon Matthiolus calleth it, _Solanum tuberosum esculentum_ which some foolishly call the Apples of youth) is another kinde of plant, differing much from the former, sauing in the colour and taste of the roote, hauing many weake and somewhat flexible branches, leaning a little downwards, or easily borne downe with the winde or other thing, beset with many winged leaues, of a darke grayish greene colour, whereof diuers are smaller, and some greater then others: the flowers growe many together vpon a long stalke, comming forth from betweene the leaues and the great stalkes, euery one seuerally vpon a short foot-stalke, somewhat like the flower of Tabacco for the forme, being one whole leafe six cornered at the brimmes, but somewhat larger, and of a pale blewish purple colour, or pale doue colour, and some almost white, with some red threads in the middle, standing about a thicke gold yellow pointell, tipped with greene at the end: after the flowers are past, there come vp in their places small round fruit, as bigge as a Damson or Bulleis, greene at the first, and somewhat whitish afterwards, with many white seedes therein, like vnto Nightshade: the rootes are rounder and much smaller then the former, and some much greater then others, dispersed vnder ground by many small threads or strings from the rootes, of the same light browne colour on the outside, and white within, as they, and neare of the same taste, but not altogether so pleasant.

The Potatos of Canada, (which hath diuers names giuen it by diuers men, as Pelleterius of Middleborough in his _Plantarum Synonimia_, calleth it _Heliotropium Indicum tuberosum_, Fabius Columna in the second part of his _Phytobasanos_, _Flos Solis Farnesianus_, _siue Aster Peruanus tuberosus_: We in England, from some ignorant and idle head, haue called them Artichokes of Ierusalem, only because the roote, being boyled, is in taste like the bottome of an Artichoke head: but they may most fitly be called, Potatos of Canada, because their rootes are in forme, colour and taste, like vnto the Potatos of Virginia, but greater, and the French brought them first from Canada into these parts) riseth vp with diuers stiffe, round stalkes, eight or tenne foote high in our Country, where they haue scarce shewed their flowers, whereas the very head of flowers in other Countries, as Fabius Columna expresseth it, being of a Pyramis or Sugar loafe fashion, broade spreading below, and smaller pointed vpwards towards the toppe, is neere of the same length, whereon are set large and broade rough greene leaues, very like vnto the leaues of the flower of the Sunne, but smaller, yet growing in the very same manner, round about the stalkes: at the very later end of Summer, or the beginning of Autumne, if the roote bee well planted and defended, it will giue a shew of a few small yellow flowers at the top, like vnto the flowers of _Aster_ or Starre-worte, and much smaller then any flower of the Sunne, which come to no perfection with vs: the roote, while the plant is growing aboue ground, encreaseth not to his full growth, but when the Summer is well spent, and the springing of the stalk is past, which is about the end of August, or in September, then the root is perceiued to be encreased in the earth, and will before Autumne be spent, that is, in October, swell like a mound or hillocke, round about the foote of the stalkes, and will not haue his rootes fit to be taken vp, vntill the stalkes be halfe withered at the soonest; but after they be withered, and so all the winter long vntill the Spring againe, they are good, and fit to bee taken vp and vsed, which are a number of tuberous round rootes, growing close together; so that it hath beene obserued, that from one roote, being set in the Spring, there hath been forty or more taken vp againe, and to haue ouer-filled a pecke measure, and are of a pleasant good taste as many haue tryed.

1 _Carum._ Carawayes.
2 _Battatas Hispanorum._ Spanish Potatoes.
3 _Papas seu Battatas Virginianorum._ Virginia Potatoes.
4 _Battatas de Canada._ Potatoes Of Canada, or Artichokes of
Ierusalem.
]

The Vse of all these Potato’s.

The Spanish Potato’s are roasted vnder the embers, and being
pared or peeled and sliced, are put into sacke with a little
sugar, or without, and is delicate to be eaten.

They are vsed to be baked with Marrow, Sugar, Spice, and other
things in Pyes, which are a daintie and costly dish for the
table.

The Comfit-makers preserue them, and candy them as diuers other
things, and so ordered, is very delicate, fit to accompany such
other banquetting dishes.

The Virginia Potato’s being dressed after all these waies
before specified, maketh almost as delicate meate as the former.

The Potato’s of Canada are by reason of their great increasing,
growne to be so common here with vs at London, that euen the
most vulgar begin to despise them, whereas when they were first
receiued among vs, they were dainties for a Queene.

Being put into seething water they are soone boyled tender,
which after they bee peeled, sliced and stewed with butter,
and a little wine, was a dish for a Queene, beeing as pleasant
as the bottome of an Artichoke: but the too frequent vse,
especially being so plentifull and cheape, hath rather bred a
loathing then a liking of them.

CHAP. L.

_Cinara._ Artichokes.

The fruits that grow vpon or neere the ground, are next to be entreated of, and first of Artichokes, whereof there be diuers kindes, some accounted tame and of the Garden, others wilde and of late planted in Gardens, Orchards or Fieldes, of purpose to be meate for men.

The Artichoke hath diuers great, large, and long hollowed leaues, much cut in or torne on both edges, without any great shew of prickles on them, of a kinde of whitish greene, like vnto an ash colour, whereof it tooke the Latin name _Cinara_: the stalke is strong, thicke and round, with some skins as it were downe all the length of them, bearing at the toppe one scaly head, made at the first like a Pine-apple, but after growing greater, the scales are more separate, yet in the best kindes lying close, and not flaring, as some other kindes doe, which are eyther of a reddish browne, whitish, or greenish colour, and in some broade at the ends, in others sharpe or prickly: after the head hath stoode a great while, if it bee suffered, and the Summer proue hot and kindly, in some there will breake forth at the toppe thereof, a tuft of blewish purple thrumes or threds, vnder which grow the seede, wrapped in a great deale of dounie substance: but that roote that yeeldeth flowers will hardly abide the next winter; but else being cut off when it is well growne, that dounie matter abideth close in the middle of the head, hauing the bottome thereof flat and round, which is that matter or substance that is vsed to be eaten: the roote spreadeth it selfe in the ground reasonable well, yeelding diuers heads of leaues or suckers, whereby it is increased.

1 _Cinara satiua rubra._ The red Artichoke.
2 _Cinara satiua alba._ The white Artichoke.
3 _Cinara patula._ The French Artichoke.
4 _Cinara siluestris._ The Thistle Artichoke.
5 _Carduus esculentus._ The Chardon.
]

The white Artichoke is in all things like the red, but that the head is of a whitish ashe colour, like the leaues, whereas the former is reddish.

We haue also another, whose head is greene, and very sharpe vpwards, and is common in many places.