Chapter XXII: Section 2: Gedaref and District

Practically the whole of the region enclosed between the Rivers Rahad and Atbara from a point some miles north of the town of Gedaref, southwards to Khor Seraf Said on the Gallabat road, an area containing more than 11,000 square miles, is comprised in the Gedaref District. This large tract of country, like other parts of the Sudan, is now greatly under populated. The inhabitants of the district are estimated at about 25,000 (1904).

The whole of the northern portion of this area is generally flat and open and devoid of bush, but here and there, particularly to north-east and south of the town of Gedaref, it is undulating and rather hilly. As these hills extend further south, the whole country becomes gradually enveloped in forest, which, though it yields a good deal of gum, is practically uninhabited, waterless, and for the most part unexplored, and bears few signs of former inhabitants.

In the rains, the surface of the ground, whether open or forest, is covered with grass 3 to 5 feet, and in places 15 feet, in height, which, until burnt, is exceedingly annoying to the traveller, should he be on foot or riding a mule or a donkey.

Generally speaking, the whole country is fertile, and only needs inhabitants and a minimum of labour to render it reproductive; water, though now scarce, would probably not prove to be an insuperable difficulty.

[Sidenote: Historical.]

In pre-Mahdist days, Gedaref and district, including the old Gedaref or Suk Abu Sin, was a fertile and populous spot. Its cornfields supplied a large portion of the Sudan, both to the north and west, and it was, in short, prosperous. It was devastated by the Dervishes in 1885, and the garrison captured. Abu Anga and later Ahmed Fedil were appointed Emir of the district. In 1898, it was seized by a small column from Kassala under Colonel Parsons, after a hazardous and successful fight, a few miles outside the town, and though subsequently twice attacked by Ahmed Fedil, held its own until relieved by a force from the Nile. (_Vide_ p. 267.)

_Gedaref Town._

The town of Gedaref is situated partly on an under-feature emanating from some low hills, rather more than 100 feet high, half-a-mile to the east, and partly on the plain which lies below the general level of the surrounding country on three sides, and on the fourth, slopes away very gradually westwards.

This plain, which extends for some miles in all directions, especially to the west and north-west, is devoid of trees of any description, and being practically all rich black cotton soil, there is really an almost unlimited extent of land available for cultivation during the rains.

The quasi-European quarter of the town consists of one street of shops, built of brick, about 200 yards long, and, with the exception of a few other brick houses and the Government buildings, the whole of the remainder of the town consists of grass tukls.

[Sidenote: Trade.]

The principal traders are Greeks, but these are few, and so far trade has not reached the expectations formed of it, owing chiefly to want of railway communication with this part of the Sudan.

There is a fair gum trade, but the quality of Hashab is hardly equal to that of Kordofan. Otherwise, besides the usual imports, consisting of cotton goods, sugar, etc., and the export of a certain amount of dura, dukhn, and simsim, and coffee from Gallabat, into other districts of the Sudan, trade at present has not reached large proportions, but is improving.

It is a notable fact that in the Eastern Sudan a well-to-do native never travels without his coffee, after imbibing which he professes to be ready for anything; in the Gezira and Kordofan, coffee does not seem to be nearly so generally drunk.

There is a little trade with Walkait, _viâ_ the Setit, but this at present is insignificant.

[Sidenote: Population.]

The inhabitants of Gedaref, estimated in 1904 at 5,500 souls, are a heterogeneous collection of Shukria, Debania, Takruris, and every kind of black. The Baggaras sent here to colonise after their defeat at Omdurman have now mostly been disseminated in the district, and what Abyssinians were originally found here have for the most part returned to their homes.

The old name of the town, “Suk Abu Sin,” is now inapplicable, as the Shukria have so decreased in numbers and wealth during the Mahdia as to be comparatively insignificant. Abu Sin is the family name of the leading Shukria family.

[Sidenote: Water supply.]

The water supply is from wells partly cut through rock; it is good but not plentiful. Efforts are being made to improve the supply.

[Sidenote: Garrison.]

The garrison usually consists of one company of the Sudanese battalion at Kassala, which also furnishes a detachment at Gallabat. There is always an Egyptian Mamur present, and usually a British Inspector for at least six months in the year. In addition, there is generally a small detachment of the Arab battalion here.

[Sidenote: Cultivation.]

There are many excellent gardens, growing the usual Sudan vegetables, and in addition, figs, limes, custard apples, and dates; the latter are remarkable in that the trees bear two separate crops during the year.

As above-mentioned, a rain-crop of dura, dukhn, simsim, etc., is very extensively cultivated on the surrounding fertile plain; a certain amount of cotton is also grown for local use; this, and the cereals, are capable of considerable development; but this must await the advent of a railway. It should, however, be borne in mind that rain-watered cotton does not produce so fine a staple as that grown on irrigated land. All cotton grown here finds a ready sale at Gallabat to the Abyssinians.

The characteristic dura of Gedaref is a red species called “Kurgi,” which produces a very white flour. There is very little “Naggad” or early dura sown; its place is taken by dukhn, which, with simsim, is harvested at the end of October, whereas the “Kurgi” is not ripe until February. Simsim, or Sesame, as a rule does particularly well in this district. As all crops are dependent on the rainfall, they naturally vary considerably and in direct accordance with it. In 1899 they were almost a complete failure. The crops were attacked in 1902-03 by a disease called “Asal,” a species of blight, so called as it produces a formation strongly resembling honey (Arabic “Asal”).[62]

[Sidenote: Rains.]

The rains begin in June and last on till October.[63] As the surrounding country is cotton soil, dust does not precede the storms as at Kassala, but judging from the dilapidated appearance of the town, when revisited on their cessation, the rainfall must be considerable in a favourable year.

Unless actually seen, it is difficult to picture the difference between Gedaref before and Gedaref immediately after the rains. By May, the surface of the ground surrounding the houses and environs of the town has become clean and bare, and many of the grass tukls have been rebuilt and appear almost toy-like, so spick and span are they. However, in October the whole place has the appearance of a wreck, houses are tumbling down, the neat new tukls are discoloured and distorted, and every square foot of ground, right up to the houses, not already planted with dura, at this time fully 12 feet high, is overgrown with the rankest of tall Aada grass, which is even higher, and through which the by-streets of the town are mere tunnels little more than 2 feet wide, and along which it is difficult to find one’s way about without a guide.[64]

[Sidenote: Climate.]

At this season (September and early October) there is a good deal of malarial fever in a year of good rainfall. The natives of the place seem to some extent inoculated with it, though those from the more northern districts are readily affected.

From December to May the climate is perfectly healthy.

[Sidenote: Wood.]

There is no building wood, and little fire wood within 15 to 20 miles.

[Sidenote: Posts and telegraphs.]

There is a post and telegraph office, and a weekly camel post to Kassala, Gallabat, and Wad Medani. Telegraph also connects with these places.

[Sidenote: Serut fly.]

As the serut fly is present at Gedaref during the rains, all camels are removed about the end of May, and other animals are kept in tukls as far as possible.

[Sidenote: Transport animals.]

In the dry weather camels are the best transport, both for travelling along the roads or going across country over the cotton soil, should it be necessary, but, in the latter case, they will sooner or later suffer from sore feet.

Limited numbers of camels are obtainable for hire or purchase during the winter months. Mules are only occasionally brought here. As many as 50 donkeys can usually be bought without much difficulty, price £E.2 to £E.3. The little Abyssinian donkey, price about £E.2, which is the best for that country, is also generally procurable.

[Sidenote: Game.]

Ariel, gazelle, bustard, quail, and a few snipe and teal are to be found in the neighbourhood at certain seasons. For game in other parts of this district, _vide_ under Gallabat.

[Sidenote: Villages.]

Beyond Gedaref itself and the villages in its neighbourhood there are few others worth mentioning. Sofi, on the Atbara, is a largish Jaalin village under Sheikh Taib El Nimr. It was here that Sir Samuel and Lady Baker spent the rains of 1869 (_vide_ “Nile Tributaries of Abyssinia”).

At Abu Gulud, between Sofi and Doka, and other villages in this neighbourhood a large quantity of grain is usually grown. Asar is the headquarters of the Debania tribe, now much reduced in numbers, and the residence of their Nazir Sheikh Wad Zaid.

On the Rahad the principal villages are Mafasa and Hawata. The former is the headquarters of the Mamur of this (Radah) district. Upstream of Hawata there are few inhabitants at present.