Chapter XV: Relevés and Entrées (4)

If the tendrons are braised, treat them after the manner described under “The Braising of White Meats” (No. 248); or, simply stew them in butter; moisten them with excellent veal stock, and baste them frequently while cooking them. They may also be treated like an ordinary veal _sauté_, from which they only differ in shape, and the various preparations of which may be adapted to them.

The garnishes best suited to them are those of early-season vegetables, and, as a matter of fact, the latter, together with such pastes as noodles, macaroni, spaghetti, etc., are the garnishes most often served with them.

1273—BLANQUETTE DE VEAU A L’ANCIENNE

Cut the veal tendrons into pieces weighing about three oz. Then, slightly blanch them; cool them, and put them into a saucepan with enough white stock to cover; add a very little salt; set to boil, and skim.

For two lbs. of tendrons, add one small carrot; one fair-sized onion, stuck with a clove; a faggot, consisting of one leek, parsley stalks, and a fragment of thyme and bay; and set to cook gently for one and one-half hours.

Prepare a white roux from one and one-half oz. of butter and one and one-half oz. of flour; moisten with one pint of veal cooking-liquor; add one oz. of mushroom parings, and cook for a quarter of an hour, despumating the sauce the while.

Transfer the pieces of tendron, one by one, to a sautépan with twelve small onions cooked in consommé, and fifteen small, cooked and very white mushrooms. Finish the sauce with a leason of two egg-yolks, mixed with three tablespoonfuls of cream and a few drops of lemon juice; strain it over the veal and its garnish; heat without boiling; dish in a timbale, and sprinkle with a pinch of chopped parsley.

N.B. This blanquette may also be prepared with noodles or _cèpes_, instead of with ordinary mushrooms.

1274—BLANQUETTE DE VEAU AUX CÉLERIS, CARDONS, ETC.

Prepare the blanquette exactly as explained above, and set it to cook with the veal and the vegetable selected for the garnish, _i.e._, either small heads of celery cut into two or four, or cardoons, cut into pieces and well _blanched_. The endives are not _blanched_; they need only be well washed and put with the veal.

When cooked, drain the vegetables, trim them, and dish them in a timbale with the veal and the sauce; the latter prepared as directed and strained over the meat.

1275—BLANQUETTE DE VEAU AUX NOUILLES

Proceed as for “Blanquette à l’ancienne,” but suppress the garnish of onions and mushrooms.

When the blanquette is dished, set thereon heaps of noodles, parboiled and cohered with butter, and cover these with raw noodles tossed quickly in butter; allow three oz. of tossed noodles per lb. of those cohered.

1276—FRICASSÉE DE VEAU

Fricassée differs from blanquette in this, namely, that the pieces of veal in the former are stiffened in butter without colouration.

When the meat has been well stiffened, besprinkle it with about one oz. of flour per lb.; cook this flour with the meat for a few minutes; then moisten the fricassée with white stock; season, and set to boil, stirring the while. All the garnishes of mushrooms and vegetables given for blanquette may be served with fricassée; but in the case of the latter, both the meat and the garnish are cooked in the sauce, the leason of which is effected by means of egg-yolks and cream, as for blanquette.

1277—FRICADELLES

Fricadelles are a kind of meat balls, somewhat like those commonly prepared in private households. They are made from raw or cooked meat, in the following manner:—

_Fricadelles with Raw Meat._—For ten fricadelles, each weighing three and one-half oz., chop up one lb. of very lean veal, cleared of all fat and gristle, together with two-thirds of a lb. of butter. Put the whole into a bowl, and add thereto five oz. of soaked and well-pressed crumb of bread, two eggs, half an oz. of salt, a pinch of pepper and a little nutmeg, and two oz. of chopped onion cooked in butter without colouration.

Mix the whole well, and divide it up into portions weighing three and one-half oz.

Fashion these portions to the shape of quoits, by first rolling them into balls on a flour-dusted board, and afterwards flattening them out with the flat of a knife.

Heat some butter or very pure fat in a sautépan; put the fricadelles therein; brown them on both sides, and then complete their cooking in the oven.

This done, set them on a round dish, and serve them, either with a vegetable purée, a Piquante or a Robert sauce.

_Fricadelles with Cooked Meat._—For ten fricadelles, each weighing two and one-half oz., chop one lb. of cooked veal, fat and lean, somewhat finely.

Put it into a bowl with a large pinch of salt, another of pepper, and a little nutmeg. Add the pulp of three fair-sized potatoes, baked in the oven; three oz. of chopped onions, cooked in butter without colouration; one large egg, and one tablespoonful of chopped parsley. Mix well; divide up into portions of the weight already given, and shape and cook them as in the previous case.

These fricadelles are served with vegetable purées and the sauces suited to those prepared from raw meat.

1278—PAUPIETTES DE VEAU

Paupiettes or scrolls are made from extremely thin slices of veal, four in. long by two in. wide. After having seasoned them, cover them with forcemeat or very fine mincemeat; roll them, with their forcemeat-coat inside, into scrolls, and tie them round, once or twice, with string, that they may keep their shape while cooking. They are sometimes covered with thin rashers of bacon. Paupiettes are always braised, gently and protractedly.

They are generally garnished with vegetable purées; but they may be served just as well with all vegetable garnishes.

By making them half the usual size, they may, after having been braised, serve as the garnish for a timbale, together with noodles, gniokis, spaghetti, or with Financière, Milanaise or Napolitaine garnish, etc.

1279—SAUTÉS DE VEAU

The pieces best suited to veal _sautés_ are: the breast and the shoulder, as also those parts of the haunch other than the cushion and undercushion.

1280—SAUTÉ DE VEAU A LA MARENGO

Heat one pint of oil in a sautépan, until it smokes. Put therein two lbs. of veal, cut into pieces, each weighing two oz., and fry until the latter are well set. Add a chopped half onion and a crushed half-clove of garlic, and fry again for a few moments.

Drain away the oil, tilting the sautépan with its lid on, for the purpose; moisten with a quarter of a pint of white wine; reduce, and add two-thirds of a quart of thin Espagnole sauce, one and one-half lbs. of tomatoes, pressed and cut into pieces (or one pint of tomato sauce), and a faggot.

Set to boil, and cook in the oven gently for one and one-half hours.

At the end of that time, transfer the pieces of veal, one by one, to another saucepan with fifteen small glazed onions, and five oz. of mushrooms. Reduce the sauce; strain it over the veal and its garnish, add two large pinches of _concassed_ parsley, and cook for a further quarter of an hour.

When about to serve, clear of all grease, dish in a timbale, and surround with small heart-shaped _croûtons_ of bread-crumb, fried in oil.

1281—SAUTÉ DE VEAU CHASSEUR

Cut the veal into pieces as above, and fry these well in butter or oil.

Drain away the grease; moisten with one quart of brown stock, add two tablespoonfuls of tomato purée, and a faggot; set to boil, and cook in the oven gently for one and one-half hours.

Transfer the pieces to another saucepan; strain; reduce their cooking-liquor by a quarter, and add it to one-quarter of a pint of Chasseur sauce (No. 33).

Pour this sauce over the pieces of veal, and cook again for a quarter of an hour. Dish in a timbale, and sprinkle with chopped parsley.

1282—SAUTÉ DE VEAU PRINTANIER

Fry the pieces of veal in butter. Moisten with two-thirds of a quart of brown stock and one-fifth of a pint of half-glaze; add a faggot; boil, and cook in the oven gently for one hour.

This done, transfer the pieces to another saucepan; add thereto a garnish of carrots, new turnips, and small, new potatoes; strain the sauce over the veal and the garnish, and cook for a further three-quarters of an hour.

Dish in a timbale and distribute over the _sauté_ a few tablespoonfuls of peas and French beans in lozenge-form, both cooked _à l’anglaise_.

1283—SAUTÉ DE VEAU A LA CATALANE

Cut up, _sauté_, and cook the veal gently for one and one-half hours, as for No. 1280.

Transfer the pieces of veal to another saucepan, and add to them three small peeled and pressed tomatoes, quartered and tossed in butter; ten small onions cooked in butter; six oz. of raw, quartered mushrooms; ten chestnuts, three-parts cooked in consommé, and eight Chipolata sausages.

Reduce the sauce to one-third of a pint; strain it over the veal and its garnish; cook for a further quarter of an hour, and dish in a timbale.

1284—SAUTÉS DE VEAU DIVERS

Veal _sauté_ may also be prepared with mushrooms, _fines herbes_, egg-plant, tomatoes, or “Currie à l’Indienne,” etc.

1285—PAIN DE VEAU

Prepare “Pain de Veau” exactly as directed under No. 1252; but substitute for the liver some very white veal.

Pain de veau is generally accompanied by a white sauce, such as velouté prepared with mushroom essence, Allemande sauce prepared with mushrooms, Suprême sauce, etc.

1286—CALF’S FEET

Calf’s feet serve chiefly in supplying the gelatinous element of aspics, and the body of braising stock. They are rarely used in the preparation of a special dish; but, should they be so used, they may be cooked and served after the manner directed in the recipes treating of calf’s head.

1287—CALVES’ TONGUES

Provided the difference of size be allowed for, calf’s tongue may be prepared like ox tongue, and served with the same garnishes. (See Ox Tongue, Nos. 1153 to 1158 inclusive.)

1288—CALF’S BRAINS AND AMOURETTES

Calf’s brains form the most wholesome and reparative diet for all those who are debilitated by excessive head-work; and the same remark applies to the brains of the ox and the sheep.

The amourettes mentioned here, which almost always accompany ox brains, are only the spinal marrow of the ox or the calf. This may be used in the preparation of a few special dishes; but all the recipes dealing with brains may be applied to it.

1289—THE COOKING OF BRAINS

Carefully remove the membrane enveloping the brains or the amourettes, and put them to soak in fresh water, until they are quite white. Put the brains in a saucepan with enough boiling _court-bouillon_ (No. 163) to cover them well; skim and then set to cook gently.

Brains have this peculiarity, namely, that prolonged cooking only stiffens them; thus, calf’s brains only take half an hour to cook; but they may cook for two hours more without harm, seeing that the process only tends to make them firmer.

1290—CERVELLE A LA BEAUMONT

Cut the brains into slices; on each slice put a layer of _gratin_ force-meat (No. 202) prepared from foie gras and softened by means of a little cold, brown sauce, and a slice of truffle. Reconstruct the brains by putting the coated slices together again.

Roll some puff-paste remains into a _galette_ one-fifth of an inch thick, the diameter of which should be in proportion to the size of the brains under treatment. Put the brains in the middle of the _galette_, and cover them with the same forcemeat as that laid on the slices; sprinkle with chopped truffles; moisten the edges of the paste, and draw these over the brains so as to enclose the latter completely.

_Gild_; make a slit in the top for the escape of steam, and bake in a hot oven for fifteen minutes. After taking the pie out of the oven, pour a few tablespoonfuls of Périgueux sauce into the former, and dish on a napkin.

1291—CERVELLE AU BEURRE NOIR

Slice the brains; set the slices on a dish, and season them with salt and pepper.

Cook two oz. of butter in the frying-pan until it is slightly blackened; throw therein a pinch of parsley _pluches_, and sprinkle the brains with this butter. Pour a few drops of vinegar into the burning frying-pan, and add it to the brains.

1292—CERVELLE AU BEURRE NOISETTE

Slice and season the brains as above. Cook the butter until it has acquired a golden colour and exhales a nutty smell; pour it over the brains, and finish with a few drops of lemon juice and a pinch of chopped parsley.

1293—CERVELLE A LA MARÉCHALE

Cut the brains into regular slices, one-third of an inch thick; treat them _à l’anglaise_ with very fine bread-crumbs, and brown them in clarified butter.

Dish them in the form of a circle, with a slice of truffle on each, and garnish the centre of the dish with a fine heap of asparagus-heads cohered with butter.

1294—CERVELLE A LA POULETTE

Prepare half a pint of poulette sauce (No. 101), combined with three oz. of small, cooked, and very white mushrooms.

Add the brains, cut into slices; toss them gently in the sauce, taking care lest they break; dish them in a timbale, and sprinkle with a pinch of chopped parsley.

1295—CERVELLE A LA VILLEROY

Cut the raw brains into slices; season them, and poach them in butter.

Dip the slices into an almost cold Villeroy sauce, in suchwise as to cover them with a thick coating of it. Leave to cool, and treat them _à l’anglaise_. Set to cook for a few minutes before serving, and dish on a napkin with fried parsley.

Serve a light Périgueux sauce separately.

1296—VOL AU VENT DE CERVELLE

Prepare a vol-au-vent crust, as explained under No. 2390. Slice the brains, and put the slices into half-a-pint of Allemande sauce, with twelve quenelles of ordinary forcemeat, poached just before dishing up; four oz. of small, cooked mushrooms, and one oz. of truffle slices, five or six of which should be reserved.

Pour the garnish into the vol au vent; set upon the latter the reserved slices of truffle, and dish on a folded napkin.

1297—AMOURETTES A LA TOSCA

Poach one lb. of _amourettes_, as explained above, and cut them into lengths of one in.

Prepare a garnish of macaroni cohered with butter and grated Parmesan, and add thereto four tablespoonfuls of a crayfish cullis per four oz. of macaroni; three crayfishes’ tails for each person, and two-thirds of the pieces of _amourettes_. Toss well, in order to thoroughly mix the whole; dish in a timbale; cover the macaroni with what remains of the pieces of _amourettes_, and cover them slightly with crayfish cullis.

MUTTON, GRASS LAMB AND HOUSE LAMB

=Relevés and Entrées.=

From the culinary standpoint, the ovine species supplies three kinds of meat, viz:—

_Mutton_—properly so-called when the meat is derived from the adult animal.

_Lamb_—the young, weaned sheep, not yet fully grown, the meat of which is the more highly esteemed the younger the animal is.

_House Lamb_—the sheep’s unweaned young that has not yet grazed.

The “Pauillac” lamb, which is imported from France, is the most excellent example of the last kind. Good house lambs are also killed in England; they are quite equal to Pauillac lamb, but their season is short. As regards ordinary English mutton and lamb, however, the delicacy and quality of these meats are unrivalled.

But for its greater delicacy and tenderness, grass lamb, which corresponds with what the French call “agneau de pré-salé” is scarcely distinguishable from mutton. The recipes suited to it are the same as those given for mutton; and all that is necessary is to allow for differences of quality in calculating the time of cooking.

House lamb, the white flesh of which is quite different, admits of some of the mutton recipes; but it is generally prepared after special formulæ, the details of which I shall give hereafter.

When served roasted, hot or cold, mutton and grass and house lamb are always accompanied by mint sauce, the recipe for which I gave under No. 136.

In view of the similarity of their preparations, and in order to avoid finicking repetitions, I have refrained from giving separate recipes for lamb and mutton respectively. The reader will therefore bear in mind that the formulæ relating to mutton also apply to grass lamb.

1298—SADDLE OF MUTTON

1299—BARON OR PAIR OF HIND-QUARTERS OF MUTTON

1300—DOUBLE OR PAIR OF LEGS OF MUTTON

1301—FILLETS OF MUTTON

1302—NECK OF MUTTON (Relevés)

_Saddle of mutton_ is that part of the sheep which reaches from the bone of the haunch to the floating ribs.

_Baron of mutton_ comprises the saddle and the two legs, _i.e._, a pair of hind-quarters.

_Double_ consists of the two unseparated legs, minus the saddle.

The Baron and the Double are almost always cuts of lamb.

The fillet is one half of the saddle, when the latter is cut into two, lengthwise; that is to say, divided down the middle in suchwise as to bisect the spinal column. These fillets are sometimes boned, rolled over with the kernel of meat in the centre, and strung, in which case the skin should be removed before rolling. Saddle of mutton, before being roasted, should be cleared of all its superfluous underlying fat; and the flanks should be so shortened as to just meet when drawn over the fillets. The overlying skin should be removed, and the saddle should be strung in five or six places to keep it in shape.

In the case of a saddle of lamb, the skin need not be completely removed, but slit in various places. As to neck of mutton, this should be shortened as for the cutting of ordinary cutlets; the skin and the bones of the chine should be removed, as also the meat at the end of the rib-bones, down to two-thirds in. from the extremity of each. The cushion is then covered with slices of bacon, tied on with string.

When the piece is roasted and dished, a frill should be placed on the end of each bared bone. Neck of mutton ought never to comprise more than nine to ten ribs, counting from the floating ones; it should consist of rather less if anything.

Mutton Relevés allow more particularly of vegetable and rice garnishes.

Garnishes with sauces do not suit them so well, even when the pieces are braised. As for paste garnishes, such as macaroni, noodles, gniokis; they are seldom used.

Garnishes for mutton relevés should therefore be chosen, in preference, from among the following, the details of which I gave under “Filet de Bœuf” (Nos. 1044 to 1074) and which I recall hereafter:—

_Andalouse_, _Bouquetière_, _Châtelaine_, _Clamart_, _Dauphine_, _Dubarry_, _Duchesse_, _Japonaise_, _Jardinière_, _Lorette_, _Macédoine_, _Montmorency_, _Moderne_, _Nivernaise_, _Orientale_, _Petit-Duc_, _Provençale_, _Renaissance_, _Richelieu_, _St. Germain_.

Apart from these compound garnishes, the following simple garnishes also suit admirably, either alone, or separated by some kind of potato preparation:—

_Braised Lettuce_, stuffed with ordinary forcemeat or rice.

_Cabbages_, moulded to the shape of small balls, braised and stuffed with fine mince-meat or rice.

_Haricot-beans_, _Peas_ and _Broad-beans_, cohered with butter.

_Asparagus-heads_, white or green, cooked and cohered with butter.

_Celery_, _Endives_, and _Chicory_, all braised. _Brussels Sprouts_, _Cauliflowers_, _Broccoli_, etc.

Finally, the garnishes and modes of preparation termed: _à l’Anglaise_, _à la Boulangère_, _Braisés_, _Mariné en Chevreuil_, which I give below for the leg and the shoulder, may be applied perfectly well to other large pieces of mutton.

1303—LARGE COLD JOINTS OF MUTTON

Refer to Cold Beef; in all cases keep the dishing simple.

The garnishing is optional.

1304—LEG AND SHOULDER OF MUTTON

Legs of mutton or lamb ought never to appear on any but an ordinary luncheon menu. Although, strictly speaking, they should always be served after one of the ways described hereafter, all the garnishes given above may be applied to them.

Shoulders may be roasted whole; but they may also be boned, seasoned inside, rolled up, and firmly strung. They may be treated like the legs, and the same garnishes are suited to them.

1305—GIGOT BOUILLI A L’ANGLAISE

Trim the leg, shorten it in the region of the tibia bone, and plunge it into a stewpan of boiling water, salted in the proportion of one-third oz. of salt per quart of water.

For an ordinary leg, add: three medium-sized carrots, two onions, each stuck with a clove, a faggot, and two cloves of garlic.

Let the leg cook for a quarter of an hour for each two lbs. of its weight.

Dish with vegetables all round, and serve at the same time a butter sauce with capers.

N.B.—Leg of mutton _à l’anglaise_ may be accompanied by purées of turnips, celery, etc., and these vegetables should cook with the meat. A purée of potatoes or of haricot beans may be sent to the table with the meat; but, in this case, of course, the vegetables would be served separately.

1306—BRAISED LEG OF MUTTON

Suppress the pelvic bone, shorten the end bone and brown the leg in the oven.

Now, put it in an oval utensil, garnished for braising; add just enough white stock to barely cover the joint, and cook gently, allowing forty minutes per lb. of meat.

Transfer the leg to a tray; strain the braising-liquor; clear it of all grease, and reduce it to half. Sprinkle the meat with a few tablespoonfuls of this reduced gravy, and set it to glaze in the oven.

Serve at the same time:—

(1) Either a purée of potatoes, of turnips, of haricot-beans, of cauliflower, etc., or

(2) The reduced braising-liquor.

1307—GIGOT A LA BOULANGÈRE

The leg may either be boned, seasoned inside and strung; or the end-bone may simply be shortened and that of the pelvis removed.

In either case, put it in an earthenware dish, and brown it well in the oven, on both sides; then complete its cooking, all but a third.

This done, set round the joint four large, sliced onions, just tossed in butter, that they may acquire some colour, and eight large, peeled potatoes cut into roundels one half in. thick. Sprinkle this garnish with the grease of the joint, and then complete the cooking of the leg and its garnish.

Serve in the dish in which the joint has cooked.

1308—GIGOT MARINE EN CHEVREUIL

Shorten the end-bone; remove the bone of the pelvis, and skin the top of the leg, leaving the meat in that region quite bare. Lard with very small strips of bacon, and put the meat into a _marinade_ prepared after the manner described under No. 170. The length of its stay in the _marinade_ should be based upon the tenderness of the meat and atmospheric conditions. In winter the time averages about three or four days, and in summer two days.

_To Roast the Joint._—Withdraw it from the _marinade_ and dry it thoroughly; set it on a stand in the baking-tray; and put it into a very fierce oven, that the meat may _set_ immediately. The object of the very fierce oven is to prevent the juices absorbed from the _marinade_ escaping in steam and thereby hardening the meat.

Towards the close of the operation, rissole the larding bacon well.

Set on a long dish; fix a frill to the bone, and serve a Chevreuil sauce separately.

_Chevreuil Sauce à la Française._—With the _marinade_ of the joint and a _Mirepoix_ with ham, prepare a sufficient quantity of Poivrade sauce (No. 49) to obtain two-thirds of a pint of it after it has been strained through a colander—an operation which should be effected with the application of great pressure to the aromatics.

Despumate this sauce for thirty minutes, and add, little by little, half a wine-glassful of excellent red wine. Finish the seasoning with a little cayenne and a pinch of powdered sugar, and once more rub the whole through tammy or a fine strainer.

1309—GIGOT A LA SOUBISE

Braise the leg of mutton as shown under No. 247. When it is two-thirds done, transfer it to another utensil; strain the braising-liquor over it, and add thereto three lbs. of sliced onions and two-third lb. of rice.

Gently complete the cooking of the joint, together with the onions and the rice. This done:—(1) put it on a baking-tray and glaze it in the oven; (2) quickly rub the onions and the rice through a fine sieve or tammy.

Set the leg of mutton on a long dish; put a frill on the bone, and serve, separately, the well-heated Soubise, finished with one oz. of butter.

N.B.—This Soubise may be prepared separately; but in this case it has much less flavour than when it is made from the onions and the rice which have cooked in the braising-liquor. I therefore urge the adoption of the recipe as it stands.

1310—COLD LEG OF MUTTON

Dish it very simply, like other cold large joints of mutton.

1311—CUTLETS

Mutton and lamb cutlets are sometimes _sautéd_; but grilling is the most suitable method of cooking them. When the nature of their preparation requires that they should be treated _à l’anglaise_, fry them in clarified butter. All the garnishes, given under “Tournedos,” except those served with sauces, may be applied to cutlets.

The latter also allow of a few special garnishes, and these I give in the following recipes.

1312—CÔTELETTES A LA CHAMPVALLON (10 Cutlets)

Take some cutlets from the region underlying the shoulder; that is to say, those uncovered by the removal of this joint. And do not clear the bone-ends of their meat, as when frills are to be fixed to them.

Season them with salt and pepper, and brown them in butter on both sides. This done, put them in an earthenware dish with half lb. of sliced onions, tossed in butter without colouration; moisten with enough white stock to almost cover the cutlets and the onions; add the quarter of a clove of garlic, crushed, and a faggot; boil, and set in the oven. At the end of twenty minutes, add one and one-half lbs. of potatoes, fashioned to the shape of corks, and cut into thin roundels; season, and complete the cooking, basting often the while.

When the cutlets are cooked, the moistening should be almost entirely reduced.

1313—CÔTELETTES LAURA

Grill the cutlets, and, meanwhile, prepare a garnish (the quantity of which should be such as to allow two and one-half oz. of it per cutlet) of parboiled macaroni, cut into half-inch lengths, cohered with cream, and combined, per lb., with three and one-half oz. of peeled, pressed, and _concassed_ tomatoes, tossed in butter.

Or, when white truffles are in season, prepare some macaroni with cream, as above, combined with the peelings of raw, white truffles.

Cut some very soft pig’s caul into triangles, proportionate in size to the cutlets; spread a little macaroni on each triangle; on the latter set a cutlet; cover the cutlets with some more macaroni, and enclose the whole in the caul. Lay the cutlets on a dish.

Sprinkle with fine raspings and melted butter, and set to grill at the salamander, or in a fierce oven, for seven or eight minutes.

Dish the cutlets in the form of a crown, and surround them with a thread of clear half-glaze sauce, combined with tomatoes.

1314—CÔTELETTES A LA MAINTENON

Fry the cutlets in butter, on one side only. This done, put a heaped tablespoonful of a _Maintenon_ preparation (No. 226) on each; shape it like a dome, by means of the blade of a small knife dipped in tepid water, and put the cutlets, one by one, on a tray. The _Maintenon_ preparation should be laid on the cooked side of each cutlet and sprinkled with fine raspings and melted butter. Now put the cutlets in a rather hot oven for seven or eight minutes in order to:—

(1) Allow a _gratin_ to form over the surface of the garnish.

(2) Finish the cooking of the cutlets.

Dish the latter in the form of a crown, and serve, separately, a sauceboat of meat glaze finished with butter.

1315—CÔTELETTES A LA MURILLO

Fry the cutlets in butter, on one side only; and garnish the cooked side, dome-fashion, with a fine hash of mushrooms, cohered with a little very reduced Béchamel sauce.

Set them on a tray; sprinkle with grated Parmesan and a few drops of melted butter, and glaze in a fierce oven. Dish the cutlets in the form of a crown; fix a frill to each, and surround them with mild capsicums and tomatoes, both of which should be sliced, tossed in butter, and mixed.

1316—CÔTELETTES A LA PROVENÇALE

For ten cutlets:—(1) Reduce one-half pint of Béchamel sauce to a third, and add thereto the third of a garlic clove, crushed, and the yolks of three eggs; (2) prepare at the same time as the cutlets, ten grilled mushrooms; and ten stoned, stuffed and poached olives, girded by a strip of anchovy fillet.

Fry the cutlets in butter, on one side only. Cover the cooked side of each with the preparation described above; set them on a tray; sprinkle them with a few drops of melted butter, and put them in the oven, that their garnish may be glazed and that their cooking may be completed.

Dish in the form of a circle; place a grilled mushroom (convex side uppermost) in the middle of each cutlet, and, on each mushroom, a stuffed olive.

1316a—CÔTELETTES DE MOUTON A LA REFORME

Trim six mutton cutlets; season them; dip them in melted butter, and roll them in bread-crumbs, combined with finely-chopped ham in the proportion of a third of the weight of the bread-crumbs. Now cook them gently in clarified butter.

Dish them in a circle on a hot dish, and send the following sauce to the table with them:—

Take a small saucepan, and mix therein three tablespoonfuls of half-glaze sauce, the same quantity of Poivrade sauce, and one coffeespoonful of red-currant jelly; add one coffeespoonful of each of the following short _julienne_ garnishes to the sauce; viz.: hard-boiled white of egg; very red, salted tongue; gherkins; mushrooms, and truffles.

1317—CÔTELETTES A LA SÉVIGNÉ

Have ready a preparation of mushroom and artichoke-bottom croquettes, in the proportion of one heaped tablespoonful for each cutlet.

Fry the cutlets in butter, on one side only. Garnish the fried side of each, dome-fashion, with the above preparation; treat them _à l’anglaise_, and sprinkle them with melted butter.

Put them in the oven to complete their cooking, and, at the same time, to colour their coating of egg and bread-crumbs.

Dish in the form of a crown.

1318—CÔTELETTES A LA SUÉDOISE

Place the cutlets on a dish, and drop thereon some minced onions and shallots, bits of parsley stalks, thyme and bay. Sprinkle them with the juice of a lemon and a few drops of oil, and leave them to _marinade_ for thirty minutes, turning them over the while, from time to time.

This done, dry them; dip them in melted butter, sprinkle them with bread-crumbs, and grill them.

Dish them in the form of a crown, and garnish the centre of the dish with the following, which may also be sent separately: one-half lb. of peeled and finely-sliced apples, quickly stewed to a purée with the third of a wineglassful of white wine. When about to serve, add to this purée two and one-half oz. of finely-grated horse-radish, or the latter grated and afterwards finely chopped.

1319—CÔTELETTES EN BELLE VUE

Proceed after one of the recipes given for veal cutlets and grenadins “en Belle Vue.”

1320—CÔTELETTES EN CHAUDFROID

Cut some very regular cutlets from a neck of mutton or lamb, which should have been trimmed as explained, braised, and left to cook in its braising-liquor. Clear all grease from the latter; strain it; reduce it, and add to it a brown chaud-froid sauce (No. 34).

Dip the cutlets in the sauce when it is almost cold; set them on a tray; deck the kernel of meat in each with a fine slice of truffle, and sprinkle with cold, melted aspic. When the sauce has set well, pass the point of a small knife round the cutlets, with the view of removing the superfluous sauce; and either dish them round a vegetable salad, cohered and moulded, or simply dish them in the form of a circle and place a pyramid of cohered, vegetable salad in their midst.

1321—NOISETTES DE MOUTON

Mutton _noisettes_, and especially those of lamb, may be classed among the choicest of entrées. They are cut from either the fillet or the neck; but, in the latter case, only the first six or seven ribs are used.

_Noisettes_ are grilled or _sautéd_, and all the recipes given for Tournedos (Nos. 1077 to 1139) and for cutlets, may be applied to them.

1322—MINION FILLETS

The minion fillets of mutton or lamb consist of the two muscles which lie under the saddle. Their mode of preparation changes according to their size. Thus, if they are small, they are served whole, after having been trimmed, sometimes larded; and _sautéd_.

If they are large, they are divided into two or three parts, cut laterally and aslant; they are flattened, trimmed to the shape of ellipses, seasoned, dipped in melted butter, sprinkled with fine bread-crumbs, and finally, gently grilled.

Minion fillets of beef, obtained from the narrow extremity or head of the fillet, are also used occasionally; and these are generally flattened, dipped in butter and fine bread-crumbs, and grilled.

These fillets are served chiefly with vegetable purées or with _macédoines_ of fresh vegetables.

The sauces best suited to them are the Béarnaise and the Robert Escoffier.

1323—SHEEP’S TONGUES

Salted or fresh sheep’s tongues make an excellent luncheon entrée.

They are cooked after the manner of ox and calf’s tongues, due allowance being made for the difference of size.

The various garnishes given for ox and calf’s tongues may also be used in this case.

1324—SHEEP’S TROTTERS

Sheep’s trotters, as they reach us from the purveyor, should first be well singed over spirits of wine, and then rubbed with a clean piece of linen. The little tuft of hair in the cleft of the hoof is next removed, the hoof itself is suppressed, and the trotters are split open lengthwise and boned. Sheep’s trotters are cooked like calf’s feet, in the special _court-bouillon_ or blanc, given under No. 167.

1325—FRITÔT OF SHEEP’S TROTTERS

Fifteen minutes before frying them, put the sheep’s trotters into a receptacle with lemon juice, a few drops of oil and some chopped parsley; keeping the quantity of these ingredients in proportion to the number of trotters. Be careful to toss the latter from time to time in the _marinade_.

A few moments before serving, dip the half-trotters into batter (No. 232) and plunge them into an abundant and hot frying-medium.

Drain them when the batter is nicely dry and golden; and dish on a napkin with a border of very green fried parsley.

Serve a tomato sauce separately.

1326—PIEDS DE MOUTON POULETTE

For this dish the trotters should, as far as possible, be freshly cooked. For twenty trotters prepare two-thirds of a pint of poulette sauce; add the trotters thereto, well drained; toss them in the sauce, and dish them in a timbale with a sprinkling of chopped parsley.

1327—PIEDS DE MOUTON ROUENNAISE

Instead of cooking the sheep’s trotters in a _blanc_, braise them; add a little Madeira to their braising-liquor, and cook them thoroughly.

Prepare a forcemeat, consisting of one and one-half lbs. of very fine sausage-meat; three oz. of chopped onions, cooked in butter without colouration, and a large pinch of parsley.

When the trotters are cooked, transfer them to a dish; almost entirely reduce their braising-liquor; add to this two liqueur-glassfuls of burnt brandy, for each ten trotters, and add this reduced braising-liquor to the forcemeat. Cut ten rectangles six inches long by four inches wide out of pig’s caul.

Spread a tablespoonful of forcemeat over each; set two trotters on the forcemeat of each rectangle; cover up with forcemeat, and draw the ends of the caul together in suchwise as to enclose the whole.

Sprinkle with bread-crumbs and melted butter; grill gently, and serve.

1328—PIEDS DE MOUTON TYROLIENNE

Cook a fair-sized chopped onion in butter, together with three peeled, pressed, and roughly-chopped tomatoes. Season with salt and pepper; add a pinch of chopped parsley, a little crushed garlic, one-sixth of a pint of Poivrade sauce, and twenty freshly-cooked and well-drained sheep’s trotters.

Simmer for ten minutes and dish in a timbale.

1329—MUTTON KIDNEYS

Mutton kidneys are either grilled or _sautéd_. When they are to be grilled, first remove the fine skin enveloping them, cut them in halves, without completely severing them on their concave side, and impale them on a small skewer, with the view of keeping them open during the grilling operation. Before grilling they may or may not be dipped in melted butter and rolled in bread-crumb.

When they are to be _sautéd_, clear the kidneys, as before, of the thin skin which envelops them; cut them into halves, and then into slices one-quarter in. thick.

Kidneys, of what kind soever, should be cooked very quickly, otherwise they harden. After having seasoned them, put them into very hot butter, and toss them over a fierce fire in order to stiffen them. This done, drain them; and let them stand for a few minutes, that they may exude the blood they contain, which sometimes has a distinct ammoniacal smell.

Meanwhile, swill the utensil in which they have been _sautéd_, and finish the sauce, to which they are added when dishing up. Never let the kidneys boil in the sauce, for they would immediately harden.

1330—ROGNONS SAUTÉS BERCY

Slice, season, and quickly toss the mutton kidneys in butter, and drain them.

For six kidneys put one tablespoonful of finely-chopped shallots into the saucepan, and just heat it. Moisten with one-sixth of a pint of white wine; reduce to half; add two tablespoonfuls of melted meat glaze, and a few drops of lemon-juice, and put the kidneys in this sauce. Add two and one-half oz. of butter, cut into small pieces; melt this on the corner of the stove, tossing and rolling the pan the while; dish in a timbale, and sprinkle a pinch of chopped parsley over the kidneys.

1331—ROGNONS SAUTÉS BORDELAISE

Fry the mutton kidneys, and drain them as above.

Put into the saucepan one-third of a pint of Bordelaise sauce combined with poached dice of marrow, a pinch of chopped parsley, and three oz. of sliced _cèpes_, tossed in butter and oil and well drained.

Return the kidneys to the saucepan; toss them in the sauce, and dish in a timbale.

1332—ROGNONS SAUTÉS CARVALHO

Fry the skinned, halved and seasoned mutton kidneys in butter, and dish them, each on a small _croûton_ of bread-crumb, cut to the shape of a cock’s comb and fried in butter. On each half-kidney, set a small cooked mushroom and a slice of truffle.

Swill the saucepan with Madeira; add a little half-glaze; put in a small quantity of butter, away from the fire, and pour this sauce over the kidneys.

1333—ROGNONS SAUTÉS AU CHAMPAGNE

Remove the outer skin from the mutton kidneys; cut them in two lengthwise; season them; fry them quickly in butter, and dish in a timbale.

Swill the saucepan with one-half pint of champagne per six kidneys; reduce almost entirely; add two tablespoonfuls of melted meat glaze; add a small quantity of butter, and pour this sauce over the kidneys.

N.B.—The preparation of kidneys _sautéd_ with wine always follows the same principle; that is to say, the saucepan in which the kidneys have cooked is always swilled with a quantity of wine, in proportion to the number of kidneys; a proportionate amount of meat glaze is then added, and after the sauce has been slightly buttered, the kidneys are tossed in it.

1334—ROGNONS SAUTÉS HONGROISE

Remove the outer skin from the mutton kidneys; cut them into halves; slice and season them; fry them in butter, and drain them.

In the saucepan that has served in the cooking of the kidneys, fry a chopped onion with butter, and add thereto a pinch of paprika.

Moisten with a tablespoonful of cream, and reduce; add one-sixth of a pint of velouté, boil for a moment, and rub through tammy.

Heat this sauce; put the kidneys into it, toss them for a minute, so as to heat without boiling them, and dish in a timbale.

1335—ROGNONS SAUTÉS CHASSEUR

Quickly fry the sliced mutton kidneys in butter and drain them.

Swill the saucepan with white wine and almost entirely reduce; add one-third of a pint of Chausseur sauce for each six kidneys; put the kidneys in this sauce, toss them for an instant; dish them in a timbale, and sprinkle with a pinch of chopped parsley.

1336—ROGNONS SAUTÉS A L’INDIENNE

For six mutton kidneys: fry a chopped onion in butter and add a large pinch of curry thereto. Moisten with one-sixth pint of velouté; cook for a few minutes, and rub through tammy.

Clear the kidneys of their outer skin; slice and season them, and fry them quickly in butter. Put them into the sauce; dish them in a timbale, and serve some rice “à l’Indienne” separately.

1337—ROGNONS SAUTÉS TURBIGO

Clear the mutton kidneys of their outer skin and cut them in halves; season them; fry them quickly in butter, and dish them in a circle in a timbale.

In their midst set a garnish of small, cooked mushrooms, and grilled chipolata sausages; and pour thereon a highly-seasoned, tomatéd half-glaze sauce.

1338—CROÛTE AUX ROGNONS

Cut some crusts two and one-half in. in diameter and one and one-third in. thick, from a tin-loaf, and allow one for each person. Remove the crumb from their inside, leaving only a slight thickness at the bottom; butter them, and dry them in the oven.

Garnish these crusts with mutton kidneys _sautéd_ with mushrooms, and combined with small, ordinary forcemeat quenelles, and slices of truffle.

Dish on a napkin, and serve very hot.

1339—TURBAN DE ROGNONS A LA PIÉMONTAISE

Garnish a border or a Savarin-mould with “rizotto à la Piémontaise,” press the latter lightly into the utensil, and keep the mould hot.

Clear the mutton kidneys of their outer skin; cut them into halves; season them, and fry them quickly in butter.

Turn out on a round dish, set the half-kidneys in a circle on the “Turban,” alternating them with fine slices of truffle, and pour a tomatéd half-glaze sauce, flavoured with truffle essence, in the middle.

1340—ROGNONS A LA BROCHETTE

Cut the mutton kidneys into halves, as explained, without dividing them; impale them two or four at a time, on a skewer; season them, and grill them in a somewhat fierce oven. Set them, with the skewers withdrawn, upon a hot dish, and put into the cavity of each a piece of softened, Maître-d’hôtel butter, the size of a hazel nut.

1341—ROGNONS BROCHETTE A L’ESPAGNOLE

Prepare the mutton kidneys as above.

Grill the same quantity of small, pressed and seasoned half-tomatoes. Garnish these tomatoes with a piece, the size of a walnut, of Maître-d’hôtel butter, combined with two-thirds oz. of chopped capsicum per three oz. of butter. Dish these tomatoes in a circle; set a kidney on each, and surround with a border consisting of rings of onion, seasoned, dredged and crisply fried in oil.

1342—ROGNONS BROCHETTE AU VERT PRÉ

Prepare the mutton kidneys exactly as explained under the first of this kind of recipes, and surround them with small heaps of straw potatoes and bunches of very green parsley.

1343—BROCHETTES DE ROGNONS

Remove the outer skin from the mutton kidneys, and cut them into roundels one-third in. thick. Season these roundels and stiffen them in butter over a very fierce fire. Impale them on skewers, alternating them with squares of _blanched_ lean bacon and slices of _sautéd_ mushrooms. Sprinkle with melted butter and raspings, and grill.

These brochettes are generally served as they stand.

=Various Preparations of Mutton.=

1344—CASSOULET

(1) Set one quart of haricot beans to cook with two quarts of water, one-third oz. of salt, one carrot, one onion stuck with a clove, one faggot, six garlic cloves, and two-thirds lb. of fresh pork rind, _blanched_ and strung together. Boil; skim; cover, and cook gently for one hour. At the end of this time, add two-thirds lb. of breast of pork, and a sausage with garlic, of the same weight as the pork. Salt the beans very moderately, allowing for the reduction which they have ultimately to undergo.

Complete the cooking of the whole gently.

(2) Fry gently in lard one lb. of shoulder, and the same weight of breast, of mutton; both cut into pieces one and one-half oz. in weight.

This done, drain away half the grease; add two chopped onions and two crushed cloves of garlic, and fry again until the onions have acquired a slight colour. Now pour in one-sixth pint of good tomato purée; moisten the meat, enough to cover, with the cooking-liquor of haricot beans, and cook gently in the oven for one and one-half hours at least.

(3) Garnish the bottom and sides of some _cocottes_ or deep dishes with bacon rind; fill these with alternate layers of the pieces of mutton, the beans, the bacon cut into dice, and the sausage cut into roundels.

Sprinkle the surface with raspings, and set the _gratin_ to form in a moderate oven for one hour; taking care to baste from time to time with some reserved haricot-beans cooking-liquor.

1345—CURRIE A L’INDIENNE

Cut two lbs. of lean mutton into cubes of one and one-third in. side, and fry these in three oz. of lard, with one chopped onion, salt, and a pinch of powdered curry. When the meat is frizzled and the onions begin to colour, sprinkle with one and one-third oz. of flour; cook the latter a while; moisten with one and one-third pints of water or stock; boil, stirring the while, so as to dissolve the roux, and then cook gently in the oven for one and one-half hours. When about to serve, clear of all grease and dish in a timbale.

Send a timbale of rice à l’Indienne separately.

1346—DAUBE A L’AVIGNONNAISE

Bone a medium-sized leg of mutton, and cut the meat into squares, three oz. in weight. Lard each square with a large, seasoned strip of bacon, inserted with the grain of the meat. Put the pieces into a _daubière_ with a sliced half-carrot and onion, three cloves of garlic, a little thyme, bay, and parsley stalks. Moisten with one and one-third pints of good, red wine and four tablespoonfuls of oil, and _marinade_ in the cool for two hours.

Prepare:—(1) Three chopped onions mixed with two crushed garlic cloves; (2) one-half lb. of lean bacon, cut into dice and _blanched_; (3) one-half lb. of fresh, bacon rind, _blanched_ and cut into squares of one in. side; (4) a large bunch of parsley, containing a small piece of dry, orange peel. Garnish the bottom and sides of a _daubière_ with thin slices of bacon; set the pieces of mutton in layers inside, and alternate them with layers of onion, bacon and bacon rind; sprinkle a pinch of powdered thyme and bay on each layer of meat. Put the faggot in the middle.

Moisten with the _marinade_, strained through a sieve, and one-fifth pint of brown stock; cover with slices of bacon; close the _daubière_, and seal down the lid by means of a thread of soft paste, in order that the steam may be concentrated inside.

Boil on the side of the stove; put the _daubière_ in an oven of regular heat (a baker’s oven if possible) that the cooking process may be gentle and steady, and cook for five hours.

When about to serve, uncover the _daubière_; remove the overlying slices of bacon; clear of grease; remove the faggot, and dish the _daubière_ on a napkin.

N.B.—According to the household method, the “Daube” is served in the _daubière_ itself; but, subject to the demands of the service and in order that the preparation may keep its bucolic character, it may be served in small earthenware utensils.

1347—DAUBE FROIDE

Cold Daube constitutes an excellent luncheon dish. All that is needed is to put what is left into a small _daubière_, where, as a result of the binding properties of the pork rinds, it will set in a mass.

When about to serve, turn out on a round dish; surround with very light, chopped jelly; and carve into very thin slices.

1348—ÉMINCÉS ET HACHIS

An unalterable principle governs the preparation of émincés and hashes, which is that the meats constituting these dishes should never boil if it be desired that they be not hard.

They should, therefore, only be heated in their accompanying garnish or sauce, and in the case of émincés, cut as finely as possible.

For the various recipes under this head, see the Chapter on Beef. (Nos. 1175, 1178 and 1179.)

1349—HARICOT DE MOUTON

Heat three oz. of lard in a sautépan. Put therein one-half lb. of lean bacon, cut into dice and _blanched_, and twenty small onions. When the bacon is frizzled and the onions have acquired a good colour, drain both on a dish. In the same fat, fry three lbs. of breast, neck and shoulder of mutton, all three being cut into pieces weighing about three oz. Keep the meat in the fat until each piece of it has acquired a frizzled coat.

Drain away half of the grease; add three crushed cloves of garlic; dust with two tablespoonfuls of flour, and cook the latter, stirring the while.

Moisten with one quart of water; season with one-third oz. of salt and a pinch of pepper; boil and stir; add a faggot, and cook in the oven for thirty minutes.

This done, transfer the pieces to another saucepan; add the bacon and the onions and a quart of half-cooked haricot beans; strain the sauce over the whole, and complete the cooking in the oven for one hour.

Dish in a timbale or in small _cocottes_.

1350—IRISH STEW

Cut two lbs. of boned breast and shoulder of mutton into pieces, as above.

Slice two lbs. of potatoes and chop four medium-sized onions.

Take a saucepan just large enough to hold these ingredients and the moistening; line the bottom of the utensil with a layer of the pieces of meat, and season the latter with salt and pepper. Upon the meat spread a litter of sliced potatoes and chopped onions; repeat the operation, again and again, until all the ingredients are used up, and remember to place a faggot in the middle.

Moisten with one and one-third pint of water, and cook gently in the oven for one and one-half hours. The potatoes in this preparation answer the double purpose of garnish and leason.

Dish in a timbale and serve boiling.

1351—MOUSSAKA

(1) Cut six fine egg-plants into halves, lengthwise; _cisel_ the pulp somewhat deeply with the point of a small knife, and fry them until their pulp may be easily removed. Do this with a spoon, and put the pulp aside with the skins of the egg-plants.

(2) Peel two fair-sized egg-plants; cut them into roundels one-third in. thick; season them, dredge them; fry them in oil, and put them aside.

(3) Chop up the pulp withdrawn from the egg-plants, and put it into a basin with one and one-half lbs. of very lean, cooked mutton, chopped or cut into very small dice; two tablespoonfuls of very finely-chopped onion, fried in butter; a pinch of parsley; a piece of crushed garlic as large as a pea; three oz. of roughly-chopped raw mushrooms, fried in butter; two eggs; two tablespoonfuls of cold Espagnole sauce; one tablespoonful of tomato purée; a pinch of salt, and another of pepper. Mix the whole well.

(4) Butter a low-bordered quart Charlotte mould; line it all over with the egg-plant skins, and lay these black side uppermost. Garnish the bottom of the mould with a layer of mincemeat, one in. thick; on this layer place a few fried roundels of egg-plant, and continue thus with alternate layers of mince and egg-plant. Cover the last layer of mince-meat with the remains of the egg-plant skins, and cook in a _bain-marie_ for one hour.

When taking the mould out of the oven, let it stand for five minutes in order that the ingredients may settle; turn out on a round dish, and besprinkle the surface of the Moussaka with chopped parsley.

1352—MUTTON PUDDING

Follow the directions given under beefsteak pudding (No. 1170) exactly. The preparation is just the same, but for the substitution of mutton for the beef.

1353—NAVARIN PRINTANIER

Heat four oz. of clarified fat in a sautépan, and put into it four lbs. of breast, neck and shoulder of mutton; all three cut into pieces weighing two and one-half oz. Fry over a very brisk fire; season with one-third oz. of salt, a pinch of ground pepper, and another of sugar.

The sugar settles slowly on the bottom of the sautépan, where it turns to caramel; it is then dissolved by the moistening, and thus gives the sauce the required colour.

When the meat is well fried, remove almost all the fat; sprinkle with one and one-half oz. of flour; cook the latter for a few minutes, and moisten with one and one-half quarts of water or stock.