Chapter XX: =Entremets (Sweets)= (3)
The quantities for this pudding are: six oz. of rice, one quart of milk (flavoured according to fancy), two oz. of sugar and three oz. of butter. The grains of rice should be kept somewhat firm, but the whole should be rather liquid. Thicken with three eggs; cook the preparation in the oven, in a pie-dish; and on taking the pudding out of the oven sprinkle its surface with icing sugar.
2503—RICE AND CHOCOLATE PUDDING
Add two oz. of chocolate to every lb. of the preparation of rice, made after No. 2404, and combine therewith the whites of three eggs beaten to a fairly stiff froth; pour the preparation into a buttered pie-dish, and cook in the oven.
Serve some chocolate custard (combined with its bulk of whisked cream) separately.
N.B.—This sweet may be served hot or cold.
=Souffléd Puddings.=
2504—SAXON PUDDING
Work four oz. of butter to a pomade in a basin. Add four oz. of powdered sugar and four oz. of sifted flour, and dilute with two-thirds pint of boiled milk.
Boil this preparation, stirring it the while; and dry it over a fierce fire as in the case of a panada for a “Pâte à choux.”
Take off the fire; thicken with five egg-yolks; and then carefully mix with it the five whites beaten to a stiff froth. Pour into well-buttered moulds, and poach in a _bain-marie_.
As an accompaniment serve an English custard or a Sabayon, flavoured according to fancy.
2505—ALMOND SOUFFLÉD PUDDING
Make a preparation as for No. 2504, but use almond milk instead of cow’s milk. Pour the preparation into buttered moulds, sprinkled with splintered and grilled almonds, and poach in a _bain-marie_.
As an accompaniment serve a white-wine Sabayon flavoured with _orgeat_.
2506—SOUFFLÉD PUDDING, DENISE
Finely pound four oz. of freshly-washed and peeled almonds, and add thereto, from time to time, a few drops of fresh water. When the almonds form a smooth paste, add the necessary quantity of water to them to produce one pint of milk. Strain through muslin and slightly twist the latter in order to express all the contained liquid.
With this almond milk, dilute three oz. of flour and three oz. of rice cream, mixed in a saucepan, and take care that no lumps form. Strain the whole through a strainer, and add five oz. of sugar, three oz. of butter and a little salt.
Set the saucepan on the fire; boil, stirring the while, and then stir briskly with a spatula until the preparation acquires the consistence of a thick paste and falls from the spatula without leaving any adhering portions. Pour this paste into a basin and combine therewith: first, little by little, two oz. of fresh butter; then, eight egg-yolks, two ounces of finely-pounded almonds moistened with a tablespoonful of kirsch and as much maraschino, and the whites of five eggs beaten to a stiff froth.
This pudding is cooked in a _bain-marie_ in one of the following ways:
(1) In a buttered pie dish. In this case, on taking the pudding out of the _bain-marie_, sprinkle its surface with icing sugar, and criss-cross it with a red-hot iron.
(2) In a shallow, buttered and dredged, Charlotte-mould.
(3) In fairly shallow, buttered dome-moulds, lined inside with roundels one inch in diameter, stamped (by means of a fancy-cutter) out of a layer of _Génoise_ or a layer of “lady’s-finger-biscuit” preparation, about one-third of an inch thick.
In the two last cases, the pudding is coated with an apricot sauce, mixed with almond milk, and a sauceboat of the same sauce is served separately.
2507—LEMON SOUFFLÉD PUDDING
Make the preparation for No. 2504, and flavour it with a piece of lemon rind. The treatment is the same.
Serve an English custard, flavoured with lemon separately.
2508—ORANGE, CURAÇAO, ANISETTE, AND BÉNÉDICTINE PUDDINGS, ETC.
For all these puddings the procedure is the same as for No. 2504, and only the flavour changes.
Accompany each with an English custard, flavoured like the particular pudding.
2509—INDIAN SOUFFLÉD PUDDING
Take some souffléd-pudding preparation and add to it two oz. of powdered ginger, and five oz. of candied ginger, cut into dice. Proceed in the same way as for No. 2504.
As an accompaniment, serve an English custard flavoured with ginger.
2510—CHESTNUT SOUFFLÉD PUDDING
Cook two lbs. of peeled chestnuts in a light, vanilla-flavoured syrup.
Rub them through a sieve, add five oz. of powdered sugar and three oz. of butter to the purée, and dry it over a fierce fire. Thicken it with eight egg-yolks and finish it with the whites of six eggs, beaten to a stiff froth.
Poach in buttered moulds in a _bain-marie_.
As an accompaniment, serve, either an English custard, or a vanilla-flavoured apricot syrup.
2511—MOUSSELINE PUDDING
Work four oz. of butter and four oz. of powdered sugar to a pomade, and add the yolks of ten eggs, one by one; meanwhile stirring the preparation.
Set the latter on a moderate fire until it veneers the withdrawn spoon; then immediately add the whites of seven eggs beaten to a stiff froth.
Pour the whole into a deep, buttered border-mould, which only half fill, in view of the subsequent expansion of the preparation while cooking.
Poach in a _bain-marie_ for about thirty minutes, and let the pudding stand for ten minutes before turning it out.
As an accompaniment serve a light Sabayon or a fruit sauce.
2512—SOUFFLÉD PUDDING A LA RÉGENCE
Make a _souffléd_-pudding preparation flavoured with vanilla, and poach it in a _bain-marie_, in a mould _clothed_ with sugar cooked to the _caramel_ stage. Serve an English custard, prepared with caramel, separately.
2513—SOUFFLÉD PUDDING A LA REINE
Take some vanilla-flavoured, _souffléd_-pudding preparation. Take a mould with a central tube; butter it, and besprinkle it with chopped pistachios and crushed macaroons. Set the preparation in the mould in layers, alternated by coats of chopped pistachios and crushed macaroons; and poach in a _bain-marie_.
As an accompaniment serve an English custard combined with _pralin_.
2514—SOUFFLÉD PUDDING A LA ROYALE
Line the bottom and sides of a buttered Charlotte-mould with thin slices of biscuit spread with jam and rolled up. Garnish the mould with a _souffléd_-pudding preparation, and poach in a _bain-marie_.
Serve an apricot sauce flavoured with Marsala, separately.
2515—SOUFFLÉD PUDDING SANS-SOUCI
Copiously butter a mould, and sprinkle its bottom and sides with well-washed currants. Garnish with a _souffléd_-pudding preparation, combined per two lbs. with one lb. of peeled apples, cut into dice and cooked in butter.
Poach in a _bain-marie_.
2516—SOUFFLÉD PUDDING A LA VESUVIENNE
Make a _souffléd_-pudding preparation, and add to it for the quantities given in the original recipe one and a half oz. of tomato jam and the same quantity of pipped Malaga raisins. Poach in a _bain-marie_ in a mould with a central tube.
When the pudding is turned out, surround it with apricot sauce, and pour in the middle some heated rum, which light when serving.
2517—ROLY-POLY PUDDING
Proceed as for No. 2361: prepare a firm paste from one lb. of flour, nine oz. of chopped suet, one and a half oz. of sugar, a pinch of salt, and one-sixth pint of water. Let this paste rest for one hour before using it.
Roll it out to the shape of a rectangle one-fifth of an inch thick; spread a layer of jam upon it, and roll it up like a Swiss roll.
Wrap it in a buttered and dredged cloth, and cook it in boiling water or in steam for one and a half hours.
When about to serve, cut the roll into roundels half an inch thick, and dish them in a crown. As an accompaniment serve a fruit sauce.
2518—RISSOLES
The preparation of rissoles for sweets is the same as that for rissoles served as hors-d’œuvres, except that the former are garnished with marmalade or jam, with a fruit _salpicon_ or with stewed fruit, with plain or _pralined_ creams, etc.
The best paste for the purpose is derived from puff-paste trimmings.
The shape of rissoles varies very much. They may be shaped like half-moons, purses, small, round or oval patties, etc.
Rissoles for entremets are also frequently made from ordinary brioche paste, and constitute a variety of Viennese fritters. In this case they are invariably mentioned on the menu as “à la Dauphine.”
2519—SOUFFLÉS
Although _soufflés_ are generally served unaccompanied, some stewed, seasonable fruit, or a _macédoine_ of fresh fruit, may, nevertheless, be served with them. This, of course, only applies to _soufflés_ with a fruit base.
I have already given the formulæ for _soufflés_ (No. 2405); I need now, therefore, only give the peculiarities of each particular _soufflé_.
2520—FRUIT SOUFFLÉ IN A CROUSTADE
Line a round, shallow, well-buttered, _croustade_-mould with a very thin layer of sugared paste. Spread some vanilla-flavoured, stewed apples on the bottom, and upon it lay a garnish of various seasonable fresh stewed fruits—quartered if large. The mould ought now to be half-filled.
Fill it up with a vanilla-flavoured _soufflé_ preparation, and cook it in a moderate oven for about twenty-five minutes.
On withdrawing it from the oven, carefully turn it out on a dish; pour a few tablespoonfuls of heated rum into the latter, and set a light to it when serving.
2521—ALMOND SOUFFLÉ
Make a preparation of _soufflé_ with cream, but use almond milk instead of cow’s milk, add one and a half oz. of slightly-grilled, chopped almonds, per half pint of almond milk. Dish and cook in the usual way.
2522—SOUFFLÉ WITH FRESH ALMONDS
Proceed exactly as above, but use fresh splintered almonds instead of grilled, chopped ones.
2523—SOUFFLÉ WITH FILBERT
Make the _soufflé_ preparation from milk in which two oz. of filbert _pralin_ per one-sixth pint have previously been infused.
Dish and cook the _soufflé_ in the usual way.
2524—SOUFFLÉ A LA CAMARGO
Make a _soufflé_ preparation of tangerines, and another of filberts as above. Dish the two preparations in layers, alternated by “lady’s-finger biscuits,” saturated with Curaçao liqueur.
2525—PAULETTE SOUFFLÉ
Take vanilla-flavoured, _soufflé_ preparation, thickened somewhat more than the ordinary kind, and add to it five tablespoonfuls of strawberry purée. Serve some well-cooled strawberries, coated with raspberry purée, separately.
2526—CHERRY SOUFFLÉ
Prepare a _soufflé_ with Kirsch, accompany it with some stewed stoned cherries, covered with a raspberry purée.
2527—STRAWBERRY SOUFFLÉ
This is a _soufflé_ with Kirsch, accompanied by iced strawberries macerated in orange juice.
2528—POMEGRANATE SOUFFLÉ “A L’ORIENTALE”
Make a _soufflé_ preparation, slightly flavoured with vanilla. Dish it in layers in a timbale, alternated by “lady’s-finger biscuits” saturated with Grenadine and Kirsch. On withdrawing the _soufflé_ from the oven, cover it with a veil of spun sugar, and sprinkle the latter with small sweets, flavoured with Grenadine, in imitation of pomegranate seeds.
2529—JAVA SOUFFLÉ
Make the _soufflé_ preparation, but use tea instead of milk, and add thereto one and a half oz. of chopped pistachios per one-sixth pint of the tea.
2530—LÉRINA SOUFFLÉ
Take some ordinary _soufflé_ preparation, flavoured with Lérina liqueur, which is a kind of Chartreuse, made in the Lérins islands.
2531—SOUFFLÉ WITH LIQUEUR
This _soufflé_ may be made, either from the soufflé with cream preparation or from that with fruit, given in the note.
The _soufflés_ made from cream are flavoured with such liqueurs as rum, curaçao, anisette, vanilla, etc.
Those made from fruit are flavoured with Kirsch, Kümmel, etc.
2532—LUCULLUS SOUFFLÉ
Set a savarin, saturated with Kirsch-flavoured syrup, upon a dish, and surround it with a band of paper, tied on with string, in order to prevent the _soufflé_ from drying during the cooking process.
Make a _soufflé_ preparation with a fruit base, set it in the centre of the savarin, and cook it in the usual way.
2533—HILDA SOUFFLÉ
This is a lemon _soufflé_, accompanied by fine strawberries, well cooled and coated with a purée of fresh raspberries.
2534—SOUFFLÉ “A LA D’ORLÉANS”
Take some cream _soufflé_-preparation, combined with pieces of Jeanne-d’Arc biscuits (a kind of Rheims biscuit), saturated with peach liqueur and Kirsch, and one oz. each of half-sugared cherries and angelica, cut into dice.
2535—SOUFFLÉ PALMYRE
Take some vanilla-flavoured _soufflé_ preparation. Set it in a timbale, in layers alternated by lady’s-finger biscuits saturated with anisette and Kirsch. Cook in the usual way.
2536—SOUFFLÉ PRALINE
Take some vanilla-flavoured _soufflé_ preparation; add to it two ounces of almond _pralin_ which should have previously infused in milk. When the _soufflé_ is dished, sprinkle its surface with grilled chopped almonds, or crushed, burnt almonds.
2537—ROTHSCHILD SOUFFLÉ
Take some cream _soufflé_-preparation, combined with three ounces of candied fruit, cut into dice and macerated in Dantzig brandy, containing plenty of gold spangles.
When the _soufflé_ is almost cooked, set on it a border of fine strawberries (in season), or half-sugared, preserved cherries.
It should be remembered, however, that the correct procedure demands the use of strawberries in full season.
2538—SOUFFLÉ A LA ROYALE
Take some vanilla-flavoured, _soufflé_-preparation. Dish it in a timbale in alternate layers with lady’s-finger biscuits, saturated with Kirsch; and distribute thereon such fruits as pine-apple, cherries, angelica and grapes—all cut into dice, and previously macerated in Kirsch.
2539—VANILLA SOUFFLÉ
Take some cream _soufflé_-preparation, made from milk in which a stick of vanilla has been previously infused.
2540—VIOLET SOUFFLÉ
Take some vanilla-flavoured _soufflé_ preparation, combined with crushed crystallised violets. When the _soufflé_ is dished, set on it a crown of large crystallised violets, and cook in the usual way.
2541—SUBRICS
Into one pint of vanilla-flavoured boiled milk, containing three and a half oz. of sugar, drop four oz. of semolina. Add one and a half oz. of butter and a grain of salt; mix thoroughly, and gently cook in the oven under cover for twenty-five minutes.
Thicken with six egg-yolks, and spread the preparation in layers two-thirds of an inch thick over a buttered tray. Pass a piece of butter over the surface to prevent its drying, and leave to cool.
Then cut up this preparation into rings three inches in diameter.
Heat some clarified butter in a frying-pan; set the rings in it; brown them on both sides, and dish them in a circle.
Garnish the centre of each ring with a tablespoonful of red-currant jelly, or very firm quince jelly.
=Timbales.=
2542—TIMBALE A LA D’AREMBERG
Line a buttered Charlotte mould with some fairly firm Brioche paste. Garnish the mould with quartered pears, cooked in vanilla-flavoured syrup, kept rather firm and alternated by apricot jam.
Close the timbale with a layer of the same paste, well sealed down round the slightly-moistened edges, and cut a slit in the middle for the escape of steam. Cook in a good moderate oven for about forty minutes.
On taking the timbale out of the oven, turn it out on a dish, and accompany it with a maraschino-flavoured apricot sauce.
2543—BOURDALOUE TIMBALE
Prepare a dry paste, combined with four ounces of finely-chopped almonds per one lb. of flour.
With this paste line a buttered timbale mould, and garnish it with various stewed fruits, alternated by layers of frangipan cream. Cover with a layer of the same paste, and bake in a good moderate oven.
When the timbale is turned out, coat it with a vanilla-flavoured apricot syrup.
2544—MARIE-LOUISE TIMBALE
Take a stale _Génoise_ cooked in a deep Charlotte mould; press the blade of a knife into it and cut it all round, leaving a base.
Remove the inside crumb in one piece which should resemble a large cork in shape. Cut this crumb into slices half-inch thick; coat each slice with Italian meringue, and, upon the latter, distribute a _salpicon_ of peaches, cherries and pine-apple.
Coat the outside of the timbale with the same meringue, and decorate it; put the slices back inside, and set them one upon the other. Owing to the inserted garnish these slices naturally project above the sides of the timbale; surround them therefore with a border of poached peaches, separated by a bit of meringue.
Put the timbale in a mild oven to colour the meringue, and serve a Kirsch-flavoured peach sauce at the same time.
2545—MONTMORENCY TIMBALE
Cook a brioche in a mould of the required size. When it is quite cold, remove all the crumb from its inside, leaving a thickness of three-quarters of an inch on the bottom and sides. Coat all round, by means of a brush, with apricot jam cooked to the _small-thread_ stage, and decorate with pieces of puff-paste in the shape of crescents, lozenges, roundels, etc., colourlessly baked in a moderate oven. When about to serve, pour in a garnish of stoned cherries, cooked in a thin syrup, thickened with raspberry-flavoured red-currant jelly.
2546—TIMBALE A LA PARISIENNE
Cook a brioche in a Charlotte-mould, and, when it is quite cold, remove the crumb from its inside as above. Coat the outside with apricot jam, and decorate with candied fruit. When about to serve, pour into it a garnish consisting of peeled and quartered pears, apples, peaches and apricots, cooked in vanilla-flavoured syrup; pine-apple cut into large dice, lozenges of angelica; half-almonds; and raisins, swelled in tepid water. Cohere this garnish with a Kirsch-flavoured apricot purée.
2547—TIMBALE A LA FAVART
Cook a brioche in a Richelieu-mould, and hollow it out and decorate it as above. The garnish of this timbale consists of only whole or halved fruit, and vanilla-flavoured chestnuts; and these are cohered with Kirsch-flavoured apricot syrup, combined with one quart of a purée of chestnut remains.
Pour the garnish into the timbale just before serving.
=Hot Fruit Entremets.=
2548—APRICOTS (Abricots)
Whether fresh or preserved, apricots used for sweets should always be peeled. When preserved apricots are used, it is well to cook them again before using them, for sometimes they are inclined to be too firm.
2549—APRICOTS A LA BOURDALOUE
Prepare a flawn-crust, and bake it without colouration. Garnish its bottom with a layer of thin frangipan cream, combined with crushed macaroons. Upon this cream set some half-apricots, poached in vanilla-flavoured syrup, and cover them with a layer of the same cream.
Sprinkle the surface with crushed macaroons and melted butter and glaze quickly.
N.B.—The above is the usual procedure, but fruit “à la Bourdaloue” may also be prepared in the following ways: (1) Set the fruit in a shallow timbale, between two layers of cream, the upper one of which should be covered with _gratin_; (2) set the fruit in a border of rice or semolina, with the same coat of _gratin_ upon the cream; (3) set the fruit in a border of _Génoise_, combined with apricots.
2550—APRICOTS A LA COLBERT
Poach some fine half-apricots in syrup, keeping them somewhat firm.
Drain them; dry them, and garnish their hollows with “rice for entremets” (No. 2404) in suchwise as to reconstruct the fruit. Treat them _à l’anglaise_, with very fine bread-crumbs; fry just before dishing, and drain. Stick a small stalk of angelica into each apricot, in imitation of the stems, and dish them on a napkin.
Serve a Kirsch-flavoured apricot sauce separately.
2551—APRICOTS A LA CONDÉ
On a round dish prepare a border of vanilla-flavoured, sweet rice, either by means of a knife, or by means of an even, buttered, border-mould.
Upon this border set some apricots poached in syrup; decorate with candied fruit, and coat with a Kirsch-flavoured apricot syrup.
2552—APRICOTS A LA CONDÉ (2nd Method)
Set a crown of small _Génoise_ roundels on a dish; on each roundel set a fine poached half-apricot (convex side undermost), and set a half-sugared cherry in the hollow of each half-apricot. In the middle of the crown arrange a pyramid of rice croquettes, the size and shape of apricots.
Serve a Kirsch-flavoured apricot sauce separately.
2553—APRICOTS A LA CUSSY
Garnish the flat side of some macaroons with a layer of smooth fruit _salpicon_, cohered with an apricot purée; set a fine poached half-apricot on each macaroon, coat with Italian meringue; dish in the form of a crown, and place the dish in a moderate oven for a few minutes to dry, but not to colour, the meringue.
Serve a Kirsch-flavoured apricot sauce separately.
2554—ABRICOTS GRATINÉS
Spread an even layer, one inch thick, of stiff stewed apples or stewed semolina (prepared like rice for entremets) on a dish. Set thereon some fine half-apricots poached in syrup; entirely cover the latter with a somewhat thin preparation of “Pralin à Condé,” sprinkle with icing sugar, and set the dish in the oven to slightly colour the _pralin_.
2555—ABRICOTS MERINGUÉS
Spread a layer of vanilla-flavoured sweet rice on a dish, and set some poached half-apricots thereon. Cover with ordinary meringue; shaping the latter like a dome or a Charlotte; decorate with the same meringue; sprinkle with icing sugar, and place the dish in the oven in order to slightly cook the meringue.
On withdrawing the dish from the oven, garnish the decorative portions alternately with apricot and red-currant jam.
2556—ABRICOTS MERINGUÉS (Another Method)
Prepare a colourlessly-baked deep flawn-crust. Garnish the bottom either with a layer of frangipan cream or with vanilla-flavoured semolina, or sweet rice. Set on this some poached half-apricots; cover with meringue, smooth the latter on top and all round with the blade of a knife, and decorate with meringue by means of a piping-bag fitted with a small even pipe. For the rest of the procedure follow the preceding recipe.
2557—APRICOTS A LA SULTANE
Prepare a _Génoise_, cooked in a somewhat deep border-mould, and stick it by means of some apricot, cooked to the _small-thread_ stage, to a base of dry paste of the same size. Coat it all round with ordinary meringue; decorate it with a piping-bag fitted with a small even pipe, and brown it in a moderate oven.
Then garnish the inside of the border with a preparation of vanilla-flavoured rice, combined with a little frangipan cream and some splintered pistachios; taking care to keep the preparation sufficiently stiff to be able to shape it like a dome. Upon the rice set some fine half-apricots, poached in vanilla-flavoured syrup, and sprinkle these with chopped pistachios.
As an accompaniment serve a syrup prepared with almond milk, and finished with a piece of butter as big as a hazel-nut.
=Pine-apple (Ananas).=
2558—PINE-APPLE A LA FAVORITE
See No. 2429.
2559—PINE-APPLE A LA CONDÉ
Macerate in sugar and Kirsch some half-slices of pine-apple. Dish them in a circle upon a border of rice, prepared as directed under No. 2551; decorate with half-sugared cherries and lozenges of angelica, and coat with a Kirsch-flavoured apricot syrup.
2560—PINE-APPLE A LA CRÉOLE
Cook a pine-apple in a Kirsch-flavoured syrup; cut it vertically in two, and cut each half into vertical, thin and regular slices.
Line a dome-mould with these slices, and fill it up with vanilla-flavoured rice; leaving a hollow in the middle. Garnish this hollow with the pine-apple parings, cut into dice, and custard apples and bananas, likewise cut into dice and cooked in syrup.
Turn out upon a round dish; decorate the top with large leaves of angelica, and surround the base with bananas poached in Kirsch-flavoured syrup.
Serve a Kirsch-flavoured apricot syrup separately.
=Bananas (Bananes).=
2561—BANANAS A LA BOURDALOUE
Peel the bananas and poach them gently in a vanilla-flavoured syrup. For the rest of the operation, proceed as directed under No. 2549.
2562—BANANAS A LA CONDÉ
Poach the bananas in vanilla-flavoured syrup, and then treat them as directed under No. 2551.
2563—BANANAS MERINGUÉES
Poach the bananas in vanilla-flavoured syrup, and then treat them as directed under the apricot recipes (Nos. 2555 and 2556); leaving them either whole or cutting them into roundels.
2564—BANANAS A LA NORVEGIENNE
Cut a slice of the peel from each banana, and remove the pulp from their insides. Fill the emptied peels, three parts full, with banana ice, and quickly cover the latter by means of a piping-bag fitted with a small grooved pipe, with an Italian meringue flavoured with rum.
Lay the prepared bananas on a dish; set the latter on a tray containing broken ice, and place the tray in a sufficiently hot oven to ensure the speedy browning of the meringue.
2565—SOUFFLÉD BANANAS
Cut off a quarter of each banana, and withdraw the pulp from their insides without bursting the peel. Rub this pulp through a sieve; add it to a cream _soufflé_-preparation; finish the latter with the necessary quantity of egg-whites, and fill the emptied peels with it.
Set the filled peels in a star on a dish, and put the latter in the oven for six minutes.
=Cherries (Cerises).=
2566—JUBILEE CHERRIES
Stone some fine cherries; poach them in syrup, and set them in small silver timbales. Reduce the syrup and thicken it with a little arrowroot, diluted with cold water; allowing one table-spoonful of arrowroot per half-pint of syrup. Cover the cherries with the thickened syrup; pour a coffee-spoonful of heated Kirsch into each timbale, and set a light to each when serving.
2567—CHERRIES A LA VALERIA
Prepare some tartlet crusts for sugared paste. Garnish the bottom of each with red-currant ice, combined with cream, and cover the latter with vanilla-flavoured, Italian meringue, laid on by means of a piping-bag. Upon this meringue set the stoned cherries, poached in sugared Bordeaux wine, and arrange the tartlets on a dish.
Lay the dish on a tray containing broken ice, and set the tray in the oven in order to dry the meringue. On withdrawing the dish from the oven, quickly coat the cherries with red-currant syrup; sprinkle the latter with chopped pistachios, and dish the tartlets on a napkin.
2568—MERINGUED CHERRY FLAWN
Line a buttered flawn-ring with fine paste: prick the bottom; garnish with stoned cherries after the manner of an ordinary flawn, and fill up with custard (No. 2397). Cook in the usual way.
On taking the flawn out of the oven, remove the ring, and finish the former like an ordinary meringue-coated flawn.
N.B.—All fruits used in the preparation of ordinary flawns may be similarly prepared for meringue-coated flawns. Only such fruits as strawberries and grapes, which are not cooked with the crust, are unsuited to this kind of preparation.
2569—NECTARINES
Nectarines may be prepared after all the recipes given for peaches. I shall not, therefore, give any recipes which are proper to them. See peaches.
=Oranges and Tangerines (Oranges et Mandarines).=
2570—ORANGES A LA NORVEGIENNE
Cut a slice of peel from the top of each of the oranges, and empty them by means of a spoon. Three-parts fill the emptied peels with orange or tangerine ice, in accordance with the fruit under treatment, and cover the ice with Italian meringue, by means of a piping-bag.
Set the dish containing the garnished peels on a tray covered with broken ice, and quickly colour the meringue at the salamander.
2571—TANGERINES A LA PALIKARE
Cut the tangerines at the top and remove the sections without bursting the peel. Skin the sections raw. Fill the peels with rice for entremets, containing a little saffron; mould some of the same rice in a little dome-mould, and set it upon a carved cushion.
Cover this dome with the tangerine sections; coat the latter with some apricot syrup; and, all round, arrange the rice-garnished peels, opened side undermost.
2572—ORANGE OR TANGERINE SOUFFLÉ RIGHI
Without splitting them, empty the orange or tangerine peels.
Half-fill them with orange or tangerine ice, according to the fruit under treatment, and cover the ice with orange- or tangerine-flavoured _soufflé_-preparation. Place the dish containing the garnished peels upon a tray covered with broken ice; set in the oven that the _soufflé_ may cook quickly, and allow two minutes for tangerines and four minutes for oranges.
=Peaches (Pêches).=
2573—PÊCHES A LA BOURDALOUE
Poach the peaches (cut into two) in some vanilla-flavoured syrup, and then proceed exactly as for No. 2549.
2574—PÊCHES A LA CONDÉ
Nos. 2551 and 2552 maybe applied in every respect to peaches.
2575—PÊCHES A LA CUSSY
Proceed exactly as for No. 2553.
2576—PÊCHES FLAMBÉES
These may be prepared in two ways as follows:—
(1) Poach the peaches whole in a Kirsch-flavoured syrup, and set them each in a small timbale. Thicken the syrup slightly with arrowroot, and pour it over the peaches. Add some heated Kirsch, and set it alight when serving.
(2) Poach the peaches as above, and set them on a fresh-strawberry purée. Sprinkle the whole with heated Kirsch, and set it alight at the last moment.
2577—PÊCHES GRATINÉES
Proceed exactly as for No. 2554.
2578—PÊCHES MERINGUÉES
Prepare a colourlessly-baked, flawn crust; garnish the bottom of it with frangipan cream prepared with _pralin_, and upon this cream set whole or halved, poached peaches. Cover with meringue and finish as explained under No. 2555.
2579—PÊCHES MAINTENON
Take some biscuit, baked in a dome-mould and completely cooled. Cut it transversely into slices, and coat each of the latter with frangipan cream, combined with a _salpicon_ of candied fruit and chopped, grilled almonds.
Join the slices together in suchwise as to reconstruct the biscuit, and cover the latter with Italian meringue. Decorate by means of the piping-bag, and dry in the oven.
Surround the biscuit with a border of fine half-peaches poached in a vanilla-flavoured syrup.
2580—PÊCHES A LA VANILLE
Poach the halved or whole peaches in a vanilla-flavoured syrup, and set them in a timbale. Cover them to within half their height with the syrup used in poaching, thickened with arrowroot slightly tinted with pink, and combined with vanilla cream.
=Pears (Poires).=
2581—POIRES A LA BOURDALOUE
If the pears be of medium size, halve them; if they are large, quarter them. Carefully trim the sections. Cook the pears in a vanilla-flavoured syrup, and for the rest of the operation follow No. 2549.
The remarks appended to No. 2549 apply equally to pears and to all fruit prepared according to the particular recipe referred to.
2582—POIRES A LA CONDÉ
Very small pears turned with great care are admirably suited to this entremet. If they are of medium size, halve them. Cook them in vanilla-flavoured syrup, and dish them on a border of rice as directed under No. 2551.
2583—POIRES A L’IMPÉRATRICE
Quarter and properly trim the pears, and cook them in vanilla-flavoured syrup. Dish them in a shallow timbale between two layers of vanilla-flavoured rice for entremets, combined with a little frangipan cream.
Sprinkle the upper layer with crushed macaroons and melted butter, and set the _gratin_ to form.
2584—POIRES A LA PARISIENNE
Bake a _Génoise_ base in a flawn-ring, and, when it is almost cold, saturate it with Kirsch-flavoured syrup.
In the middle of this base set a little dome of vanilla-flavoured rice, and surround it with pears, cooked in syrup and set upright. Border them with a thread of ordinary meringue, squeezed from a piping-bag, fitted with a fair-sized, grooved pipe; by the same means make a fine rosette of meringue on top of the dome, and bake this meringue in a mild oven.
On taking the dish out of the oven, glaze the pears with a brush dipped in rather stiff apricot-syrup, and surround them with a border of half-sugared cherries.
2585—POIRES A LA SULTANE
Halve or quarter the pears; trim them well, and cook them in a vanilla-flavoured syrup.
For the rest of the operation follow No. 2557.
2586—POIRES A LA RÉGENCE
Turn the pears; cook them whole in a vanilla-flavoured syrup, and let them cool in the syrup. When they are cold cut them in two lengthwise, slightly hollow out the inside of each half; garnish the hollow with rice for entremets, combined with a quarter of its weight of frangipan cream and a fine _salpicon_ of candied fruit, macerated in Kirsch.
Join the two halves of each pear, and treat them _à l’anglaise_ with very fine bread-crumbs.
Fry them at the last moment, and, on taking them out of the fat, stick an angelica stalk into each. Dish them on a napkin, and serve a Kirsch-flavoured apricot sauce separately.
2587—TIMBALE DE POIRES A LA VALENCIENNES
Two-thirds garnish a buttered Charlotte-mould with Savarin paste. Let the paste rise by fermentation; bake it, and let it cool.
Remove the top which acts as a cover, and put it aside; then remove all the crumb from the inside, leaving only the outside crust, and smear the latter with apricot syrup. Decorate with alternate bands of sugar grains and chopped, very green pistachios.
Treat the cover with apricot syrup and decorate it in the same way. Quarter some “Duchesse,” “Beurre,” “Doyenne” or other creamy pears; peel them; cut them into somewhat thick slices, and cook them in butter after the manner of Pommes à Charlotte. When the pears are well cooked, mix with them a quarter of their weight of apricot jam, and flavour with vanilla liqueur.
Serve the timbale with this preparation; put its cover on, and set it on a warm dish.
Serve a Kirsch-flavoured apricot sauce separately.
=Apples (Pommes).=
2588—APPLE FRITTERS
Take some russet apples, which are the best for the purpose, and make a hole through their centres with a tube three-quarters of an inch in diameter, to remove the core and the pips. Peel them and cut them into roundels one-third of an inch thick, and macerate them for twenty minutes in powdered sugar and brandy or rum.
A few minutes before serving, dry them slightly; dip the roundels into thin batter, and plunge them into plenty of hot fat. Drain them, set them on a tray, sprinkle them with icing sugar, glaze them quickly, and dish them on a napkin.
2589—APPLES WITH BUTTER
Core some gray Calville or russet apples by means of the tube-cutter; peel them and parboil them for two minutes in boiling water, containing a little lemon juice. Then set them in a buttered sautépan; add a few tablespoonfuls of vanilla-flavoured syrup, and cook them under cover in the oven. Dish them on little, round, brioche _croûtons_, glazed in the oven, and fill the hollow with butter worked with an equal weight of powdered sugar, and mixed with a little brandy.
Cover the apples with their own syrup, slightly thickened with apricot purée.
2590—POMMES A LA BONNE-FEMME
Core some russet apples with the tube-cutter, and slightly cut them all round.
Dish them, fill the hollow of each with butter and powdered sugar mixed; pour a little water into the dish, and gently cook the apples in the oven.
Serve these apples as they stand.
2591—POMMES A LA BOURDALOUE
Quarter, peel and trim the apples, and cook them in vanilla-flavoured syrup, keeping them somewhat firm. Proceed for the rest of the operation as directed under No. 2549.
2592—POMMES EN CHARLOTTE
See No. 2436.
2593—POMMES A LA CHÂTELAINE
Take some medium-sized apples, and prepare them like those of No. 2590. Set them on a buttered dish; fill the hollow in each with a _salpicon_ of half-sugared cherries, cohered with apricot purée; cover with thin, frangipan cream; sprinkle with crushed biscuits and macaroons and melted butter, and set the _gratin_ to form in a fierce oven.
2594—POMMES A LA CHEVREUSE
On a dish, set a cushion of a preparation for semolina croquettes. All round arrange a close border of quartered apples cooked in vanilla-flavoured syrup; garnish the centre with a _salpicon_ of candied fruit and raisins, cohered with an apricot purée, and cover with a thin coat of semolina.
Cover the whole with ordinary meringue, shaped like a dome; sprinkle some chopped pistachios upon the latter; dredge with icing sugar, and set to brown in a mild oven.
On taking the dish out of the oven deck the top of the dome, with a rosette of elongated angelica lozenges; place a small apple, cooked in pink syrup, in the middle of the rosette, and surround the base of the entremet with a circle of alternated white and pink, quartered apples.
2595—POMMES A LA CONDÉ
Poach some fine, peeled and trimmed apples in vanilla-flavoured syrup. Dish them on a border of rice, decorated with cherries and angelica, as explained under No. 2551.
2596—POMMES GRATINÉES
Set the quartered apples, poached in vanilla-flavoured syrup, upon a base of minced apples prepared as for a Charlotte and kept somewhat stiff. Cover with fairly thin pralin à Condé; sprinkle with icing sugar, and place the dish in a mild oven, that the _pralin_ may dry and colour slightly.
2597—POMMES MERINGUÉES
Set the quartered apples, poached in vanilla-flavoured syrup, upon a base of rice for croquettes, or of a mince as for a Charlotte. Cover with ordinary meringue, and smooth the latter, giving it the shape of a dome or a Charlotte; decorate with the same meringue; sprinkle with icing sugar, and bake and brown in a mild oven.
2598—POMMES A LA MOSCOVITE
Take some well-shaped apples, uniform in size; trim to within two-thirds of their height, and withdraw the pulp from their insides in suchwise as to make them resemble a kind of cases.
Poach these cases in a thin syrup, keeping the pulp somewhat firm; drain them well, and set them on a dish.
Garnish them, one-third full, with a purée made from the withdrawn pulp, and fill them up with a Kümmel-flavoured, apple-_soufflé_ preparation.
Cook in a mild oven for twenty minutes.
2599—POMMES A LA PARISIENNE
Proceed exactly as for No. 2584.
2600—POMMES A LA PORTUGAISE
Make cases of the apples as under No. 2598, and poach them in the same way, keeping them somewhat firm.
Garnish them with stiff frangipan cream, combined with grated orange rind, crushed macaroons, and currants and sultanas (both washed and swelled in a Curaçao-flavoured, lukewarm syrup).
Dish these garnished apples on a base of semolina-croquette preparation, and set them in the oven for ten minutes. On taking them out of the oven, coat their surface with melted red-currant jelly, combined with a fine _julienne_ of well-parboiled orange-_zest_.
2601—RABOTTE DE POMMES OU DOUILLON NORMAN
Prepare the apples like those “à la Bonne-femme,” and enclose each in a layer of fine, short paste. Cover each rabotte with an indented roundel of the same paste; _gild_; streak, and bake in a hot oven for fifteen minutes.
2602—POMMES IRÈNE
Select some nice apples; peel them, and cook them in syrup, keeping them somewhat firm. When they are cold, carefully withdraw their pulp, that they may form a sort of cases.
Rub the pulp through a sieve, sugar it with vanilla sugar, and spread a layer of it on the bottom of each apple. Fill up the apple-cases with vanilla ice, combined with a purée of cooked plums; the proportions being one-third of the latter to one of the former.
Cover this ice with Kirsch-flavoured Italian meringue; set the latter to colour quickly, and serve instantly.
2603—FLAN DE POMMES CHAUD NINON
Prepare a colourlessly-baked flawn crust. Garnish it with apples stewed as for a Charlotte, and shape these in the form of a dome. Upon these stewed apples set pink and white quartered apples, alternating the latter regularly; and, by means of a brush delicately coat these quarters of apple with some reduced white syrup.
2604—FLAN DE POMMES A LA BATELIERE
Line a flawn-ring with some short paste, and garnish it with apples, stewed as for a Charlotte.
Cover the apples with a dome of somewhat creamy rice for entremets, combined with the whites of four eggs (beaten to a stiff froth) per lb. of cooked rice.
Bake the flawn in the usual way, and, on taking it out of the oven, sprinkle it copiously with icing sugar, and glaze with a red-hot iron.
=Various Hot Entremets.=
2605—MINCE PIES
_Constituents._—One lb. of chopped suet; one and one-third lbs. of cold, cooked fillet of beef, cut into very small dice; one lb. of pipped raisins; one lb. of currants and an equal quantity of sultanas; one lb. of candied rinds; half lb. of peeled and chopped raw apples; the chopped _zest_ and the juice of an orange; two-thirds oz. of allspice; one-sixth pint of brandy; and the same measure of Madeira and rum.
Thoroughly mix the whole; pour it into an earthenware jar; cover the latter, and let the preparation macerate for a month.
_Preparation._—Line some deep, buttered tartlet moulds with ordinary short paste; garnish them with the above preparation; cover with a thin layer of puff-paste, having a hole in its centre; seal down this layer, _gild_, and bake in a hot oven.
2606—CÉLESTINE OMELET
Make an omelet from two eggs, and garnish it either with cream, stewed fruit or jam. Make a somewhat larger omelet, and stuff it with a different garnish from the one already used; enclose the first omelet in the second, and roll the latter up in the usual way. Sprinkle with icing sugar, and glaze in the oven or with a red-hot iron.
2607—EGGS A LA RELIGIEUSE
Bake a somewhat deep flawn-crust without colouration, and have it of a size in proportion to the number of eggs it has to contain. Coat it inside with a layer of _pralin_, and dry the latter well in a mild oven.
Meanwhile poach the required number of fresh eggs in boiling milk, sugared to the extent of a quarter lb. per quart, and keep them somewhat soft. Drain them, and set them in the crust. Between each egg place a small slice of pine-apple, cut to the shape of a cock’s comb. Thicken the poaching-milk with five eggs and six egg-yolks per quart; pass it through a strainer: pour the preparation over the eggs, and put the flawn in a mild oven, that the cream may be poached and slightly coloured.
2608—PAIN PERDU OR GILDED CRUST
Cut some slices one-half inch thick from a brioche or a stale loaf and dip them in cold sugared and vanilla-flavoured milk. Drain the slices; dip them in some slightly-sugared beaten eggs, and place them in a frying-pan containing some very hot clarified butter. Brown them on both sides; drain them; sprinkle them with vanilla sugar, and dish them on a napkin.
2609—FRUIT SUPRÊME A LA GABRIELLE
Prepare (1) a border of apples, stewed as for a Charlotte, thickened with eggs, and poached in a buttered and ornamented border mould.
(2) A _macédoine_ of fruit, the quantity of which should be in proportion to the capacity of the mould and consisting of quartered pears, cooked in syrup; pine-apple, cut into large lozenges; half-sugared cherries; angelica, stamped into leaf-shapes by means of the fancy-cutter; and currants and sultanas, swelled in syrup. Set all these fruits in a sautépan.
To every pint of the pear-syrup add one lb. of sugar, and cook the mixture to the _small-ball_ stage. This done, reduce it by adding one-sixth pint of very thick almond milk; pour this over the fruit, and simmer very gently for ten minutes. Turn out the border of apples, poached in a _bain-marie_, upon a dish, and surround it with a border of candied cherries. Complete the _macédoine_ away from the fire with a little very best butter; pour it into the border, and sprinkle on it some peeled and finely-splintered almonds.
2610—SCHALETH A LA JUIVE
Line a greased iron saucepan, or a large mould for “Pommes Anna,” with a thin layer of ordinary noodle paste, and fill it up with the following preparation:—For a utensil large enough to hold one and a half quarts:—one and three quarter lbs. of stiffly stewed russet apples; one and a quarter lbs. in all of pipped Malaga raisins, currants, and sultanas (swelled in tepid water) in equal quantities; the finely chopped half-_zests_ of an orange and a lemon; a mite of grated nutmeg; four oz. powdered sugar; four whole eggs and the yolks of six; and a quarter of a pint of Malaga wine. Mix the whole well, in advance.
Cover with a layer of noodle paste; seal the latter well down round the edges; _gild_, and make a slit in the top for the escape of steam. Bake it in a moderate oven for fifty minutes, and let it rest ten minutes before turning it out.
2611—ENGLISH TARTS
These tarts are made in deep pie or pastry-dishes. Whatever be the fruit used, clean it, peel it, or core it, according to its nature. Some fruits are sliced while others are merely quartered or left whole.
Set them in the dish, to within half inch of its brim; sprinkle them with moist or powdered sugar, and (in the case of fruit with firm pulps like apples) with a few tablespoonfuls of water.
This addition of water is optional and, in any case, may be dispensed with for aqueous fruits. First cover the edges of the dish, which should be moistened slightly, with a strip of short paste, an inch wide. Then cover the dish with a layer of puff-paste, which seal down well to the strip of paste, already in position and slightly moistened for the purpose. With a brush moisten the layer of paste constituting the cover of the tart; sprinkle it with sugar, and set the tart to bake in a moderate oven.
All English tarts are made in this way, and all fruits may be used with them even when, as in the case of gooseberries, they are green.
Accompany these tarts by a sauceboat of raw-cream or by a custard pudding (No. 2406).
=Cold Sweets=
2612—SAUCES AND ACCOMPANIMENTS OF COLD SWEETS
Cold sweets allow of the following sauces:—
(1) _English Custard_ (2397), flavoured according to fancy.
(2) _Syrups_ of apricot, of mirabelle plums, of greengages, of red-currant, &c., the particular flavour of which should always be intensified by the addition of a liqueur in keeping with the fruit forming the base of the syrup. Kirsch and Maraschino are admirably suited to this purpose.
(3) _Purées of fresh fruit_, such as strawberries, raspberries, red-currants, etc., combined with a little powdered sugar, and used plain or mixed with a little whipped cream.
(4) _Chantilly Cream_, flavoured as fancy may suggest.
Finally, certain entremets allow of the following sauce:—
2613—CHERRY SAUCE
Gently melt one lb. of raspberry-flavoured red-currant jelly. Pour it into a cold basin, and add to it an equal quantity of freshly-prepared cherry juice, the juice of two blood-oranges, a little powdered ginger, and a few drops of carmine; the latter with the view of giving the preparation a sufficiently strong and distinctive colour. Finally add a quarter of a lb. of half-sugared cherries, softened in a tepid, Kirsch-flavoured syrup.
=Bavarois.=
These are of two kinds:—
(1) Bavarois with cream, and (2) Bavarois with fruit.
2614—CREAM BAVAROIS
_Preparation_: Work one lb. of castor sugar with fourteen egg-yolks in a saucepan, dilute with a pint and a half of boiled milk, in which a stick of vanilla has previously been infused, and two-thirds of an oz. of gelatine dipped in cold water.
Put the preparation on a mild fire until it properly veneers the withdrawn spoon, and do not let it boil. Pass it through the strainer into an enamelled basin; let it cool, stirring it from time to time; and, when it begins to thicken, add one and a half pints of whipped cream, three oz. of powdered sugar, and two-thirds oz. of vanilla sugar.
2615—BAVAROIS AUX FRUITS
_Constituents._—One pint of fruit purée, diluted with one pint of syrup at 30° (saccharom.). Add the juice of three lemons, one oz. of dissolved gelatine, strained through linen, and one pint of whipped cream. The preparation for fruit Bavarois may be combined with fruit of the same nature as that used for the purée; and this fruit may be added raw in the case of strawberries, raspberries, red-currants, etc., and poached in the case of pulpy fruits, such as pears, peaches, apricots, etc.
2616—THE MOULDING AND DISHING OF BAVAROIS
Bavarois are generally moulded in fancy moulds fitted with a central tube, slightly greased with sweet almond oil. When they are greased they are incrusted in broken ice after the preparation has been covered with a round sheet of white paper.
When about to serve, the mould is quickly plunged into tepid water, wiped, and turned out upon a dish, which may or may not be covered with a folded napkin.
Instead of oiling the moulds they may be covered with a thin coat of sugar cooked to the _caramel_ stage, which besides making the Bavarois sightly, also gives it an excellent taste. Another very advisable method is that of serving the Bavarois in a deep silver timbale or dish, surrounded with ice. In this case, the entremet not having to be turned out, the preparation does not need to be so cohesive, and is therefore much more delicate.
When the Bavarois is served after this last method it is sometimes accompanied by stewed fruit or a _Macédoine_ of fresh fruit; though, in reality, these fruit adjuncts are better suited to cold puddings, which, in some points, are not unlike Bavarois.
Finally, when the Bavarois is moulded, it may be decorated, just before being served, with Chantilly cream laid on by means of a piping-bag fitted with a grooved pipe.
2617—BAVAROIS CLERMONT
Take some vanilla-flavoured Bavarois preparation combined with three oz. of candied chestnut purée and three oz. of candied chestnuts, broken into small pieces, per pint of the preparation.
Having turned out the Bavarois, surround it with a crown of fine candied chestnuts.
2618—BAVAROIS DIPLOMATE
_Clothe_ a timbale mould with a layer of vanilla-flavoured Bavarois preparation. Fill it with chocolate and strawberry Bavarois preparations, spread in alternate and regular layers.
2619—BAVAROIS MY QUEEN
_Clothe_ a Bavarois mould with a preparation of slightly-sugared raw cream, combined with dissolved gelatine. Then fill up the mould with a Bavarois preparation, made from strawberry purée and combined with large strawberries, macerated in Kirsch. When the entremet is turned out surround it with a border of large strawberries, also macerated in sugar and Kirsch.
2620—BAVAROIS A LA RELIGIEUSE
_Clothe_ a mould with some chocolate dissolved in a syrup containing a somewhat large proportion of gelatine. Garnish the inside of the mould with a vanilla-flavoured Bavarois preparation, made from plain instead of whipped cream.
2621—BAVAROIS RUBANNÉ
This kind of Bavarois is made from differently-coloured and differently-flavoured preparations, spread in alternate layers in the mould.
It is therefore governed by no hard and fast rules, and every kind of Bavarois preparation may be used.
2622—VARIOUS CREAM BAVAROIS
Almond, anisette, filbert, coffee, chocolate, Kirsch, fresh walnut, orange, and violet Bavarois, &c., may be prepared after No. 2614; the flavour alone undergoing any change.
2623—VARIOUS FRUIT BAVAROIS
After the generic recipe, Bavarois may be prepared from pine-apple, apricots, strawberries, raspberries, melon, etc.
2624—BLANC-MANGE
Blanc-mange is scarcely ever served nowadays, and this is a pity; seeing that, when it is well prepared, it is one of the best entremets that can be set before a diner. Blanc-mange, as it is prepared in England, is quite different from that generally served; but it is nevertheless an excellent and very wholesome entremet, and that is why I have given its recipe below.
As a matter of fact, in order to justify its name, blanc-mange ought always to be beautifully white; but, for a long time since, the compound word has lost its original meaning. The adjective and noun composing it have fused one with the other to form a single generic title, which may now be applied with equal propriety to both coloured and white preparations; and the verbal error is so old, dating as it does from pre-Carême times, that it would be futile to try and correct it.
2625—FRENCH BLANC-MANGE
_Preparation._—Skin one lb. of sweet almonds and four or five bitter almonds, and soak them well in fresh water that they may be quite white.
Pound them as finely as possible; adding to them the while (in spoonfuls at a time) one pint of water. Strain the whole through a strong towel, twisting the latter tightly; melt one lb. of loaf-sugar in the resulting milk (about one and half pints); add a bare oz. of gelatine dissolved in tepid syrup; strain the whole through muslin, and flavour according to taste.
_Moulding_:—Mould the blanc-mange in oiled moulds fitted with centre-tubes as for Bavarois. Incrust them in ice that their contents may set, and proceed for the turning-out as already directed.
N.B.—For the preparation of almond milk, modern Cookery has substituted for the procedure given above, which is antiquated, another which consists in pounding the almonds with only a few table-spoonfuls of water and some very thin cream.
2626—BLANC-MANGE WITH FRUIT AND LIQUEURS
All fruits, reduced to purées, may serve in the preparation of blanc-manges, and the apportionment of the ingredients should be as follows:—the purée of the selected fruit and the preparation given above (including the same amount of gelatine) should be mixed in equal quantities.
These blanc-manges take the name of the fruit with which they are prepared, _i.e._: strawberries, raspberries, apricots, peaches, etc. They may also be prepared with liqueurs, which should be in the proportion of one liqueur glassful to one quart of the preparation. The best liqueurs for the purpose are Kirsch, Maraschino and Rum.
Blanc-manges are also made from chocolate and coffee, although the flavour of the latter does not blend so well with that of almonds as do the other products.
2627—BLANC-MANGES “RUBANNÉS”
Prepare these as directed under No. 2621, spreading the differently flavoured and coloured blanc-mange preparations in alternate even and regular layers.
N.B.—Blanc-mange preparations may also be dished in silver timbales, in good china cases, or in deep dishes. By this means, to the great improvement of the preparation, the gelatine may be reduced to a minimum quantity, just enough to ensure the setting of the blanc-mange and no more. And the thing is quite possible inasmuch as there is no question of turning out the entremet.
In his book “The Parisian Cook,” Carême recommends the addition to the Blanc-mange of a quarter of its volume of very fresh, good cream; and the advice, coming as it does from such an authoritative source, is worth following.
2628—ENGLISH BLANC-MANGE
Boil one quart of milk, containing four oz. of sugar, and pour it over a quarter of a lb. of corn-flour diluted with half a pint of cold milk; stirring briskly the while.
Smooth the preparation with the whisk, and cook it over an open fire for a few minutes, without ceasing to stir.
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A guide to modern cookeryChapter XX: =Entremets (Sweets)= (3)
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