Chapter XVI: Poultry (volaille) (3)

Whichever way they are made, however, the boudins are poached like quenelles, and are afterwards drained on a piece of linen. They are then dipped in beaten egg and rolled in bread-crumbs, and, finally, gently coloured in clarified butter, that their inside may get heated at the same time.

Dish them in a circle on a folded napkin, and serve a Périgueux sauce separately.

1656—BOUDINS DE VOLAILLE SOUBISE

Prepare the boudins with some forcemeat as above, but replace the _salpicon_ inside by a very reduced and cold truffled Soubise purée.

Poach, dip in beaten egg, and roll in bread-crumbs, and colour as before in clarified butter.

Serve a clear Soubise separately.

1657—QUENELLES DE VOLAILLE MORLAND

Mould some portions of somewhat firm chicken _mousseline_ forcemeat into the shape of oval quenelles, three oz. in weight. Dip them in beaten egg; roll them in finely minced truffle, and press lightly on the latter with the blade of a knife, in order that it may combine with the egg.

Poach gently in clarified butter, under cover, that the forcemeat may be well cooked.

Dish in a circle, and in the middle pour a mushroom purée.

1658—QUENELLES DE VOLAILLE D’UZÈS

Line the bottom and sides of some oval buttered quenelle moulds with chicken forcemeat prepared with panada and cream. Garnish the middle with a mince of the white of chicken meat cohered with reduced Allemande sauce, and cover with forcemeat.

Poach the quenelles in good time; drain them on a piece of linen; set them in a circle on a round dish, and coat with Aurore sauce. Garnish the centre of the circle with a fine _Julienne_ of truffles.

1659—CAPILOTADE DE VOLAILLE

Prepare an Italienne sauce, combined with cooked, sliced mushrooms. Add to this sauce some thin slices of cold fowl remains, and heat without allowing to boil at all.

Dish in a timbale, and sprinkle a little chopped parsley over the preparation.

1660—CHICKEN PIE

Cut a fowl into pieces as for a fricassée; season the pieces, and sprinkle them with three finely-chopped onions, one and one-half oz. of chopped mushrooms cooked in butter, and a pinch of chopped parsley.

Line the bottom and sides of a pie-dish with thin slices of veal; set the pieces of fowl inside, putting the legs undermost; add five oz. of thin slices of bacon; the yolks of four hard-boiled eggs cut into two; and moisten sufficiently to three-parts cover with chicken consommé. Cover with a layer of puff-paste, which should be sealed down to a strip of paste stuck to the edges of the pie-dish; _gild_; streak; make a slit in the middle of the paste, and bake in a moderate oven for one and one-half hours.

When taking the pie out of the oven, pour a few tablespoonfuls of strong gravy into it.

1661—CRÊTES ET ROGNONS DE COQ

In order to prepare cocks’ combs and kidneys, they should be first set to soak in cold water for a few hours.

If they are fresh, they should be put in a saucepan of cold water; the latter should be made lukewarm, and they should then be drained and rubbed in a towel that their skins may be removed. This done, they are trimmed, and kept in fresh water, which ought to be frequently changed until they are quite white.

They may then be cooked in a very light Blanc (No. 167).

The kidneys are merely soaked in cold water for a few hours, and put to cook with the combs a few minutes before the latter are ready.

Cocks’ combs and kidneys are mostly used as garnish; nevertheless, they also serve in the preparation of special dishes, for which I shall now give a few recipes.

1662—CRÊTES ET ROGNONS DE COQ A LA GRECQUE

About twenty-five minutes before serving, prepare a pint of pilaff rice, combined with one half-capsicum cut into dice, and a very little saffron.

Also prepare ten roundels of egg-plant, seasoned, dredged, and fried in oil just before dishing. The moment the rice is cooked, add thereto twenty-four very fresh cocks’ kidneys, frizzled in butter, and twelve fine _blanched_ cocks’ combs, _poëled_ after the manner of lambs’ sweetbreads.

Set the whole in a silver saucepan, arrange the egg-plant roundels in a circle on the rice, and serve instantly.

1663—DESIRS DE MASCOTTE

Put three oz. of butter in a vegetable-pan, and fry it nut-brown.

Add to this butter twenty-four fine cocks’ kidneys (it is essential that these should be fresh); season them with salt, pepper, and a little red pepper, and cook them for from five to six minutes, which should prove sufficient.

Meanwhile, prepare twelve _croûtons_ of bread-crumbs, one-third inch thick, stamped out with a round cutter two-thirds inch in diameter. Fry these _croûtons_ in butter at the last minute.

Put four fine, very black truffles, cut into somewhat thick slices, into the required quantity of reduced half-glaze sauce; add the kidneys, drained of their butter, as well as the fried crusts, one and one-half oz. of very best butter, and a few drops of lemon juice, and roll the saucepan gently, that the butter may thoroughly combine with the sauce.

Dish immediately in a very hot, silver timbale, and serve instantly.

1664—ROGNONS DE COQ FARCIS POUR ENTRÉES FROIDES, GARNITURES, ETC.

Choose some fine, cooked kidneys, and cut them into two lengthwise. Trim them slightly underneath, that they may lie steady.

Stuff them by means of a piping-bag with a highly seasoned purée of foie gras, or of ham, of the white of a chicken and truffles, combined with an equal weight of fresh butter.

Coat them with a pink or white chaud-froid sauce, according to the requirements; set them in a low timbale, and cover them with light jelly.

They may also be put into petits-fours moulds, surrounded with jelly, and used as a garnish for cold fowls.

1664a—CHICKEN CROQUETTES AND CUTLETS

The croquettes and cutlets with which we are now concerned are made up of exactly the same constituents, and only differ in the matter of shape, the croquettes, as a rule, being shaped either like corks or rectangles; sometimes, too, like quoits; whereas the cutlets, as their name implies, are made in cutlet-shaped moulds.

The preparation from which they are made is as follows:—One lb. of the meat of a poached or roast fowl, thoroughly cleared of all skin, cartilage, and bones, and cut into small regular dice[1]; six oz. of cooked mushrooms; an equal amount of salted ox-tongue or York ham, and four oz. of truffles. Cut these various products like the chicken, and mix them therewith; then add one-half pint of very reduced and finished Allemande sauce to the whole; set the preparation to dry for a few minutes over an open fire; this done, remove it from the latter, and thicken it with the yolks of four raw eggs, which should be quickly mixed with it. Now pour the preparation into a very clean, buttered tray, and butter its surface, lest a crust form thereon during the cooling.

When the preparation is quite cold, transfer it, by means of a spoon, in pieces weighing about two oz., to a flour-dusted mixing board. Make the croquettes and cutlets about the desired shape; dip them into an _anglaise_, and roll them in fine bread-crumbs. Definitely shape them; plunge them into very hot fat; keep them therein till they have acquired a fine golden colour; drain them, and dish them in a crown on a napkin, with a heap of fried parsley in the middle.

Croquettes and cutlets may be garnished as fancy suggests, but the accompaniment should always be served separately. Tomato and Périgueux sauces are the most commonly used, and the best garnishes for the purpose are all the purées, peas, French beans, and _jardinières_.

[Footnote 1: When prepared as directed above, all meats, whether of
poultry, game, fish, crustacea or mollusca, &c., may serve in the
preparation of croquettes or cutlets.]

=Chickens’ Livers (Foies de Volaille)=

1665—BROCHETTES DE FOIES DE VOLAILLE

Collop the livers; quickly stiffen them in butter, and then treat them exactly as explained under “Brochettes de Rognons” (No. 1343).

1666—FOIES DE VOLAILLE ET ROGNONS SAUTÉS AU VIN ROUGE

Proceed according to the recipe given under “Rognons Sautés au Champagne” (No. 1333), using sliced chickens’ livers and cocks’ kidneys in equal quantities, and substituting excellent red wine for the Champagne.

N.B.—Chickens’ livers are also prepared _sautés_ chasseur; _sautés_ fines herbes, au _gratin_; en coquilles; en pilaw, &c. Refer to sheep’s kidneys for these preparations.

1667—FRICASSÉE DE POULET A L’ANCIENNE

For a fricassée cut up the chicken as for a _sauté_, but divide the legs into two. The procedure is exactly that of “Fricassée de Veau” (No. 1276)—that is to say, the chicken is cooked in the sauce.

About ten minutes before serving, add ten small onions, cooked in white consommé, and ten small grooved mushroom-heads. Finish at the last moment with a pinch of chopped parsley and chives. Thicken the sauce at the last moment with the yolks of two eggs, four tablespoonfuls of cream, and one oz. of best butter.

Dish in a timbale, and surround the fricassée with little flowerets of puff-paste, baked without colouration.

1668—FRICASSÉE DE POULET AUX ÉCREVISSES

Prepare the fricassée as above, and add thereto as garnish ten small, cooked mushrooms, and the shelled tails of twelve crayfish, cooked as for bisque. When about to serve, finish the fricassée with two and one-half oz. of crayfish butter, made from the crayfishes’ carcasses and their cooking-liquor rubbed through linen.

Dish in a timbale.

1669—FRITÔT OU MARINADE DE VOLAILLE

Cut some boiled or roast fowl into slices, and _marinade_ these in a few drops of oil, lemon juice, and some chopped herbs for one-quarter hour. Boiled fowl is preferable, in that the greater porousness of its meat facilitates the percolation of the _marinade_ through it.

A few minutes before serving, dip the slices into very light batter, and put them into very hot fat. Drain, the moment the batter is well _gilded_; dish on a napkin with fried parsley, and serve a tomato sauce separately.

N.B.—Nowadays Fritôt and Marinade of fowl are identically the same dish, but formerly they differed in this, namely, that the Fritôt was prepared from cooked fowl, and the Marinade from pieces of uncooked fowl which were _marinaded_ beforehand.

1670—MOUSSES ET MOUSSELINES DE VOLAILLE

Both these preparations have for basic ingredient the mousseline forcemeat of No. 195. They differ in that the “Mousses” are prepared singly for one service, _i.e._, for several people at once, and that the “Mousselines,” which are virtually special quenelles, are prepared in the proportion of one or two for each person.

In different parts of this work, especially under No. 797, the subject has already been exhaustively treated; there is no need now, therefore, to go over the ground again.

1671—MOUSSELINES DE VOLAILLE ALEXANDRA

Mould and poach the _Mousselines_. Drain them, and set them in a circle on a round dish; place on each a fine slice of cooked fowl, and upon the latter a slice of truffle. Coat with Mornay sauce, glaze quickly, and, in the middle of the _mousselines_, set a heap of asparagus-heads or small peas, cohered with butter.

1672—MOUSSELINES DE VOLAILLE A L’INDIENNE

Prepare the _mousselines_ as above; set them in a circle on a round dish; coat with Indienne sauce, and serve a timbale of rice à l’Indienne separately.

1673—MOUSSELINES DE VOLAILLE AU PAPRIKA

When the _mousselines_ are poached and dished, set upon each a fine collop of _suprême_, and coat with suprême sauce with paprika. Surround them with small timbales of pilaff rice combined with _concassed_ tomatoes cooked in butter.

1674—MOUSSELINES DE VOLAILLE A LA PATTI

Proceed as for “Mousselines Alexandra,” but coat them with suprême sauce, finished with crayfish butter. In their midst set a heap of asparagus-heads, cohered with butter, and upon these lay some fine slices of glazed truffles.

1675—MOUSSELINES DE VOLAILLE A LA SICILIENNE

Prepare the _mousselines_ as above, and set them, each on an oval tartlet, garnished with macaroni à la Napolitaine. Coat them with suprême sauce; besprinkle with grated Parmesan, and glaze quickly.

1676—SYLPHIDES DE VOLAILLE

Prepare and poach the _mousselines_ in the usual way. Garnish the bottom of some _barquettes_ with Mornay sauce, and put a _mousseline_ into each _barquette_.

Set a collop of fowl on each _mousseline_, and cover them with a somewhat stiff preparation of soufflé au Parmesan (No. 2295a), applied ornamentally by means of a piping-bag fitted with an even pipe. Put the sylphides in the oven, in order to cook the _soufflé_, and serve instantly.

1677—MOUSSELINES DE VOLAILLE A LA FLORENTINE

Proceed as for the sylphides; taking note only of this difference, viz., that the bottom of the _barquettes_ must be garnished with shredded spinach stewed in butter. For the other details of the operation the procedure is the same.

1678—PILAW DE VOLAILLE

Pilaff, which is the national dish of Orientals, gives rise to an endless number of recipes. The various curries of veal, lamb, and fowl are “pilaffs,” and all except the one “à la Parisienne,” which I give below, follow the same method of preparation—namely, that of curry; but for a change in the condiments and the treatment of the rice, which is not the same as that of “Riz à l’Indienne.”

1679—PILAW DE VOLAILLE A LA GRECQUE

Cut the fowl into small pieces, and fry it in mutton fat with three oz. of chopped onions. Sprinkle with one oz. of flour; moisten with one pint of white consommé; add two-thirds of a capsicum, cut into dice, and one and one-half oz. of currants and sultanas, and cook gently.

Dish in a timbale, and serve some pilaw rice separately.

1680—PILAW DE VOLAILLE A L’ORIENTALE

Prepare the fowl as above, only flavour it with a little powdered ginger, and add three green braised and quartered capsicums to the sauce.

Serve a timbale of pilaff rice at the same time.

1681—PILAW DE VOLAILLE A LA PARISIENNE

Cut up the fowl as for a fricassée; season it; fry it in butter, and add thereto three and one-half oz. of rice, browned in butter, with one chopped onion, a leaf of bay, and two peeled and _concassed_ tomatoes. Moisten with enough white broth to more than cover, and cook in a very hot oven for twenty-five minutes. At the end of this time the fowl and rice are cooked, and the rice should be quite dry.

Sprinkle then with one-sixth pint of veal stock; mix the latter with the pilaff by means of a fork, and dish with care in a timbale.

Serve a sauceboat of tomato sauce separately.

1682—PILAW DE VOLAILLE A LA TURQUE

Prepare the fowl as for “Pilaw à la Parisienne,” and flavour with a little cayenne and another of saffron. Dish in a timbale.

N.B.—Pilaff may also be prepared with cooked fowl, cut into slices which are heated in butter. In this case, garnish the bottoms and sides of a timbale with _tomatéd_ pilaff rice; put the slices of fowl in the middle; cover with rice, and turn out the timbale on the dish.

Surround the timbale with a thread of tomato sauce.

1683—SOUFFLÉS DE VOLAILLE

For dinners on a large scale, it is in every way preferable to use raw chicken-meat. For small services, cooked chicken-meat suits perfectly.

N.B.—The time allowed for cooking chicken _soufflés_ with cooked chicken-meat is comparatively long, and it is better to cook them a little too much than not enough.

For a _soufflé_ made in a quart timbale, and cooked in a moderate oven as directed, allow from about twenty-five to thirty minutes.

1684—SOUFFLÉ DE VOLAILLE WITH RAW MEAT

Prepare two lbs. of _mousseline_ forcemeat of chicken, according to recipe No. 195; add to this the whites of four eggs beaten to a stiff froth.

Dish in buttered timbales, and cook in a moderate oven.

1685—SOUFFLÉ DE VOLAILLE WITH COOKED MEAT

Finely pound one lb. of the white of cooked chicken-meat; add thereto six tablespoonfuls of cold, reduced, Béchamel sauce. Rub through tammy.

Heat this preparation in a saucepan, without allowing it to boil, and add to it one and one-half oz. of butter, the yolks of five eggs, and the whites of six, beaten to a stiff froth.

Dish in a buttered timbale, and cook in a moderate oven.

Suprême sauce and the other derivatives of Allemande sauce form the best accompaniments to chicken _soufflés_.

1686—SOUFFLÉ DE VOLAILLE A LA PÉRIGORD

This may be made from either one of the two above-mentioned preparations, but there must be added to it three and one-half oz. of chopped truffles. The preparation is then spread in layers separated by slices of truffle, which should weigh about three and one-half oz. in all, in order to be in proportion to the quantities already given.

=Cold Preparations of Fowl.=

1687—POULARDE A LA CARMÉLITE

Poach the pullet; raise the _suprêmes_ and remove their skin; slice them; coat them with white chaud-froid sauce, and decorate them soberly with pieces of truffle. Trim the carcass; coat it outside with white chaud-froid sauce, and fill it with a fine crayfish _mousse_, reconstructing it exactly in so doing.

Cause a _mousse_ to set in a refrigerator; place the collops of _suprême_ neatly upon it, in two rows, and between each row lay a dozen fine crayfish tails shelled and trimmed.

Coat the whole with half-melted aspic jelly; set in a deep dish; incrust the latter in a block of ice, and pour enough very good, melting aspic jelly (No. 159) over the pullet to half-immerse it.

1688—POULARDE AU CHAMPAGNE

Stuff a pullet two days beforehand with a whole foie gras studded with truffles and stiffened in butter for twenty minutes. _Poële_ it in champagne; put it in a _cocotte_; cover it with its _poëling_-liquor, containing a sufficient addition of succulent jelly, and leave it to cool.

On the morrow remove, by means of a spoon, the grease that has settled on the jelly, and scald the latter twice or thrice with boiling water, in order to remove the last traces of grease.

Serve this pullet very cold, in the same _cocotte_ in which it has cooled.

1689—POULARDE EN CHAUD-FROID

Poach the pullet; let it cool in its cooking-liquor; cut it up, and clear the pieces of all skin. Dip the pieces in chaud-froid sauce, already prepared from the pullet’s cooking-liquor if possible, and arrange them on a tray. Decorate each piece with a fine slice of truffle; glaze with cold, melted jelly; leave to set, and trim the edges of the pieces, just before dishing them.

_Old method of dishing_: Formerly, chaud-froids were dished on a cushion of bread or rice, placed in the middle of a border of jelly; and, between each piece, cocks’ combs and mushrooms, covered with chaud-froid sauce or jelly, were set.

They were also dished on stearine tazzas, made in special moulds; but these methods, however much they may have been honoured by old cookery, are generally scouted at the present day.

The method of dishing detailed hereafter is steadily ousting them; it allows of serving much more delicate and more agreeable chaud-froids in the simplest possible way, and was inaugurated at my suggestion at the Savoy Hotel.

_Modern method of dishing_: Set the decorated pieces, coated with chaud-froid sauce, side by side on a layer of excellent aspic jelly, lying on the bottom of a deep square dish. Cover them with the same aspic, which should be half melted, and leave to set. When about to serve, incrust the dish in a block of carved ice, or surround it with the latter fragmented.

This procedure allows of using less gelatinous products in the preparation of the aspic, and the latter is therefore much more delicate, mellow, and melting.

1690—POULARDE EN CHAUD-FROID A L’ÉCOSSAISE

Having poached and cooled the pullets, raise the _suprêmes_, and cut each into three or four collops. Garnish these collops, dome-fashion, with a _salpicon_ consisting of the meat cut from the carcass, combined with an equal quantity of salted tongue and truffle, and cohered with reduced chicken jelly.

Coat these collops with white chaud-froid sauce; sprinkle them immediately with very red tongue, truffle, gherkins, and hard-boiled white of egg; all chopped, mixed, and glazed with jelly.

Now set the collops in a deep, square silver dish, alternating them with oval slices of salted tongue.

Garnish their midst with a salad of French beans, cut lozenge-form and cohered with aspic.

1691—CHAUD-FROID FELIX FAURE

Raise the _suprêmes_ of a fine pullet; cut them in two in the thick part, without separating them, and slightly flatten them. Lay them on a piece of linen; season them; and, on one of their halves, spread a layer of foie-gras purée thickened with a little chicken forcemeat. Upon this layer set some rectangles of raw foie gras, one-third in. thick; cover with purée, set some slices of truffle upon the latter; coat again with purée; moisten with white of egg, and over the whole press the other half of the _suprême_. Wrap each _suprême_, prepared in this way, in a piece of muslin; poach them in a moderate oven, after having moistened them to within half their height with chicken stock; and leave them to cool in their cooking-liquor under slight pressure.

This done, take off the muslin, and cut each _suprême_ into ten or twelve medallions. Envelop each medallion in a _mousse_ of chicken made with the meat of the poached eggs, and leave to set. Then coat each medallion with white chaud-froid sauce, and deck each with a fine slice of truffle.

_Clothe_ a dome-mould with a fine chicken jelly, and decorate it with slices of truffle; put the medallions inside, proceeding as for an aspic, and leave to set.

When about to serve, turn out on a serviette.

1692—CHAUD-FROID DE POULARDE A LA GOUNOD

Raise the _suprêmes_ of a poached pullet, and cool them under pressure.

Then cut them into rectangles of equal sizes; and, if necessary, bisect them in the thickness.

Prepare a slab of _mousse_ (made from the legs and the trimmings), twice as thick as the rectangles. Smoothen this _mousse_ neatly, and put it in the refrigerator that it may get firm. This done, cut it into pieces exactly equal in size to the _suprêmes_; to do this, all that is necessary is to stick the latter on the _mousse_ by means of jelly.

Now coat each _suprême_ garnished with _mousse_ with white chaud-froid sauce, and decorate with a bar of notes, imitated with truffles.

Set in a square, deep silver dish; cover with limpid and melting chicken jelly; leave to set, and serve the dish incrusted in a block of ice.

1693—CHAUD-FROID DE POULARDE A LA ROSSINI

Prepare the pieces as for ordinary chaud-froid, and coat them with chaud-froid sauce combined with a quarter of its bulk of very smooth foie-gras purée. Decorate each piece with a lyre composed of truffle stamped out with a “lyre” fancy-cutter, set them on a deep, square dish, and cover with chicken jelly as above.

1694—POULARDE A LA DAMPIERRE

Completely bone the pullet’s breast, and stuff it with a preparation of chicken forcemeat (No. 200). Sew up the piece, truss it as for an entrée, and poach it in a chicken stock.

When it is cold, trim it, and coat it with a white chaud-froid sauce, combined with a little almond milk. Glaze with aspic jelly, and set it, without decorating it, on a low cushion lying on a long dish.

Surround it with six small, ham _mousses_ and six small, chicken _mousses_, moulded in deep _dariole-moulds_, and arranged alternately.

Border the dish with _croûtons_ of jelly, cut very neatly.

1695—POULETS A L’ÉCARLATE

Bone the breasts of three fair-sized chickens; stuff and poach them as explained above. When they are quite cold, cover them with white chaud-froid sauce; decorate with pieces of truffle; glaze with aspic jelly, and leave to set.

This done, set them upright on a dish, letting them lean one against the other. Between each chicken set a salted calf’s tongue, upright, with the tip of the tongue pointing upwards; and, on either side of the tongues, a large glazed truffle.

Border the dish with fine _croûtons_ of jelly, and serve a mayonnaise sauce at the same time.

1696—POULARDE A LA LAMBERTYE

Poach the pullet and let it cool thoroughly.

Raise the _suprêmes_, suppress the bones of the breast and garnish the cavity with a cold chicken _mousse_, combined with a quarter of its volume of foie-gras purée, shaping the latter in such wise as to reconstruct the bird.

Cut the _suprêmes_ into thin, long slices; coat them with white chaud-froid sauce, and place them on the _mousse_, pressing them lightly one upon the other. Deck with pieces of truffle; glaze with chicken jelly; set in a square, entrée dish, and surround with melted jelly.

When about to serve, incrust the dish in a block of ice.

1697—POULARDE A LA NEVA

Stuff the pullet with chicken forcemeat (No. 200), combined with foie gras and truffles, cut into dice; poach it in chicken stock and let it cool. This done, coat the piece with white chaud-froid sauce, decorate with jelly, and leave to set.

Set the pullet on a cushion of rice, lying on a long dish. Behind the bird, arrange a fine, vegetable salad in a shell of carved rice, or in a large, silver shell.

Border the dish with neatly-cut _croûtons_ of pale jelly.

1698—POULARDE ROSE DE MAI

Poach the pullet and, when it is quite cold, raise its _suprêmes_ and remove the bones of the breast. Coat the carcass with a white chaud-froid sauce; decorate as fancy may dictate; garnish with a _mousse_ of tomatoes (No. 814), and arrange the latter in such wise as to reconstruct the bird.

Slice the _suprêmes_; coat them with white chaud-froid sauce; decorate with truffles, and glaze with chicken jelly. Garnish with the same _mousse_ as that already used for the pullet, as many small, _barquette_-moulds as there are chaud-froid-coated slices, and leave to set.

Put the pullets on a low cushion of rice, placed on a long dish; surround it with the _barquettes_ of _mousse_, turned out at the last moment; set a chaud-froid-coated slice on each _barquette_, and distribute _croûtons_ of jelly over the dish.

1699—POULARDE ROSE MARIE

Having poached and cooled the pullet, raise its _suprêmes_; cut these into collops, and coat them with white chaud-froid sauce. Trim the carcass, leaving the wings attached; garnish it with very smooth and pink, ham _mousse_, giving the latter the shape of the pullet, and put to set in the refrigerator.

Mould in small, oval moulds, as many _barquettes_ of the same ham _mousse_ as there are collops.

When the mousse in the fowl has properly set, coat it with chaud-froid sauce, prepared with paprika of a fine, tender, pink shade; decorate according to fancy, and glaze with chicken jelly.

Set the pullet on a low cushion of rice, placed on a dish; place the _barquettes_ of ham _mousse_ around it; set a collop on each _mousse_ and a fine slice of truffle on each collop, and border the dish with _croûtons_ of aspic.

1700—POULARDE A LA SAINT-CYR

_Poële_ the pullet in white wine, and leave it to cool in its cooking-liquor. This done, raise the fillets; cut them into regular slices; coat them with white chaud-froid sauce and decorate.

Meanwhile, _sauté_ fifteen larks in a _mirepoix_; remove the fillets of six of them; glaze them with brown, chaud-froid sauce, and decorate them with bits of hard-boiled white of egg.

With the remainder of the larks and five oz. of foie gras, prepare a _mousse_, and use the latter for reconstructing the pullet as explained in the preceding recipes. When the _mousse_ has set properly, coat it with brown, chaud-froid sauce. Arrange the chicken fillets, coated with white, chaud-froid sauce, on either side of the _mousse_; in the middle put the larks’ fillets, coated with brown, chaud-froid sauce, and let them slightly overlap one another.

Set the pullet in a deep, square dish; surround it with melted, chicken jelly; let the latter set, and serve the dish incrusted in a block of ice.

1701—POULARDE EN TERRINE A LA GELÉE

Bone the pullet all but the legs, and stuff it with a forcemeat consisting of: three and one-half oz. of veal; three and one-half oz. of fresh pork fat; three and one-half oz. of _gratin_ forcemeat, prepared from fowls’ livers; two tablespoonfuls of brandy; two tablespoonfuls of truffle essence, and the yolk of an egg.

In the midst of the stuffing, set half of a raw foie gras and one raw, quartered truffle on each side. Reconstruct the pullet; truss it as for an entrée; cover it with slices of bacon, and _poële_ in Madeira for one and one-half hours.

Leave to half-cool in the cooking-liquor; withdraw the pullet; remove the slices of bacon, and put it in a _terrine_ just large enough to hold it.

Add a little chicken jelly to the bird’s cooking-liquor, which should not have been cleared of grease, but merely strained through a napkin; and pour this sauce over the pullet.

Do not serve until twenty-four hours have elapsed, and clear of grease as directed under “Poularde au Champagne” (No. 1688).

Serve the _terrine_ in a block of ice, or on a dish with broken ice all round.

1702—TERRINE DE POULARDE EN CONSERVE

Prepare the pullet as explained above, and put it in a box just large enough to hold it. Seal up the box; mark the top with a bit of tin; put it in a stewpan with enough water to cover it, and boil for two hours.

This done, withdraw the box and cool it, placing it upside down, that the grease may be at the bottom and the breast coated with jelly.

1703—AILERONS DE POULET A LA CARMÉLITE

Poach a chicken à la Reine; let it cool; raise its _suprêmes_ and leave the humerus bones attached, after having duly cleared them of all meat; skin the _suprêmes_, and coat them with a little jelly.

Garnish a timbale, just large enough to hold the two wings, half-way up with crayfish _mousse_. Upon this _mousse_, set the two _suprêmes_, opposite one another, and between them set a row of shelled and trimmed crayfishes’ tails, cooked as for bisque. Cover the whole with a succulent half-set chicken jelly, and place in the refrigerator for two hours.

1704—AILERONS DE POULET LADY WILMER

Poach three fleshy, spring chickens, taking care to have the _suprêmes_ just cooked. Leave to cool, and raise the wings as in the preceding recipe, trim them and coat them with jelly.

With the meat of three legs, prepare a chicken _mousse_, and mould it in a dome-mould. When the _mousse_ is set, turn it out on a dish, and place the wings all round, fixing them on the _mousse_, with their points upwards, by means of a little half-set jelly.

Cover the _mousse_ on top, and the gaps between the points of the _suprêmes_ with chopped truffle and chopped tongue, laid alternately. In the middle of the _mousse_, set a fine, glazed truffle, pierced by a small _hatelet_.

1705—ASPIC DE POULET A L’ITALIENNE

_Clothe_ a border mould with aspic jelly, in accordance with the procedure described under “Aspic de Homard” (No. 954), and decorate it with large slices of truffles. Fill the mould with a coarse _julienne_ of chicken fillets, salted tongue and truffles, spread in successive layers and besprinkled with cold, melted aspic.

When about to serve, turn out the aspic on a very cold dish; set a salad “à l’Italienne” in its midst, and serve a Rémoulade sauce separately.

1706—ASPIC DE POULET A LA GAULOISE

_Clothe_ an ornamented mould with jelly, and decorate its bottom and sides with truffles. Fill it with successive and alternate layers of: aspic jelly, collops of chicken fillets, cocks’ combs coated with brown, chaud-froid sauce, fine cocks’ kidneys, coated with white chaud-froid sauce, and slices of salted tongue cut into oval shapes.

When about to serve, turn out, and surround with fine _croûtons_ of aspic.

1707—MÉDAILLONS DE VOLAILLE RACHEL

Prepare some chicken _suprêmes_ as explained under “Chaud-froid Félix Faure” (No. 1691), and cut them into collops. Trim these collops with a round, even cutter, and coat them with aspic.

Prepare a _mousse_ from the meat of the legs. Spread this _mousse_ on a tray in a layer one-third in. thick and leave it to set. When it is quite firm, stamp it out with a round, even cutter, dipped in hot water, and a little larger than the one used in trimming the collops.

Set a medallion on each roundel of _mousse_, fixing it there by means of a little half-set jelly, and arrange the medallion prepared in this way on a square dish.

In their midst set a fine faggot of asparagus-heads; fill the gaps between the medallions with a garnish consisting of a salad of asparagus-heads with cream.

Serve on a block of ice or surround the dish with ice.

1708—GALANTINE DE VOLAILLE

For galantines, fowls may be used which are a little too tough to be roasted, but old fowls should be discarded. The latter invariably yield a dry forcemeat, whatever measures one may take in the preparation.

The fowl should be cleaned but not emptied, and it should be carefully boned; the process beginning from an incision down the skin of the back, from the head to the tail.

This done, carefully remove the meat with the point of a small, sharp knife, until the carcass is quite bare. Cut off the wings and the legs, flush with the articulations of the trunk; remove all the meat that the skin may be quite clean, and spread the skin on a clean piece of linen. Trim the meat of the breast, cut it into pieces one-third inch square, and put the resulting trimmings aside.

Season these pieces and _marinade_ them in a few drops of brandy; prepare other pieces of the same size and length from four oz. of truffles; six oz. of salted, fat pork; four oz. of cooked ham, and four oz. of salted and cooked ox-tongue. Then clear the meat of the legs of all tendons; add to it the trimmings cut from the breast, as much very white veal and twice as much very fat, fresh pork; season these meats with salt, pepper and nutmeg; chop them up very finely; pound them, and rub them through a sieve. Add the brandy in which the fillets were _marinaded_.

Spread a layer, three in. wide, of this forcemeat along the whole of the middle of the chicken’s skin; upon this layer of forcemeat set the strips of bacon, fowl, truffle, ham, and tongue, arranging them alternately and regularly; upon them spread another layer of forcemeat, equal to the first; then another layer of the various pieces, and finally cover and envelop the whole in what remains of the forcemeat.

Draw the skin of the fowl over the whole and completely wrap the former round the latter. Carefully sew up the edges of the skin, and roll the galantine in a napkin, either end of which should be tightly strung.

With six lbs. of shin of veal, one-half lb. of fresh _blanched_ pork rind, and the fowl’s carcass, prepare a white veal stock (No. 10). When this stock has cooked for about five hours, add the galantine to it, and gently cook the latter for about one and one-quarter hours.

At the end of this time take the galantine off the fire; drain it on a dish, and let it cool for ten minutes; remove the napkin in which it has cooked, and roll it in another one which should be similarly tied at both ends. This done, put the galantine to cool under a weight not exceeding five or six lbs.

The cooking-liquor, once it has been cleared of grease and clarified as for an aspic (No. 158), constitutes a jelly which accompanies the galantine. When the latter is quite cold, remove the napkin covering it, trim it neatly at either end; coat it with half-melted jelly, and dish it on a low cushion of carved rice. Finally, decorate it as fancy may dictate with pieces of jelly.

1709—PAIN DE VOLAILLE FROID

_Poële_ a very tender chicken; do not colour it and have it only just done. Withdraw it and leave it to cool. Add two tablespoonfuls of strong veal stock and one tablespoonful of burned brandy to the _poëling_-liquor.

Simmer for ten minutes. Strain this stock through a sieve, and slightly press the vegetables in so doing, that all their juices may be expressed.

Clear of grease, and reduce until the liquor does not measure more than two tablespoonfuls. Put it on the side of the fire, add the yolks of three eggs, stirring briskly the while, and add, little by little, six oz. of very good, fresh butter, just as for a Hollandaise sauce. Finally, add one and one-half leaves of gelatine, dissolved in two tablespoonfuls of boiling water, and rub the whole through tammy.

Meanwhile, raise the chicken’s fillets and cut them into wide and thin collops, after having cleared them of skin. Cover each collop with a slice of truffle dipped in good, half-melted jelly, and with them line the bottom and sides of a timbale-mould, already _clothed_ with jelly and incrusted in ice.

Then completely bone the chicken; finely pound the remainder of its meat as well as the skin; rub the whole through a fine sieve, and add the resulting purée to the prepared sauce. Mix the whole well, and fill the mould with it. Allow to set well, and turn out on a cushion of rice surrounded by fine _croûtons_ of jelly.

N.B.—By substituting young ducks, young pigeons, or some kind of game such as pheasant, woodcock, &c., for the chicken, this recipe may be applied to any piece of poultry or game.

1710—SUPRÊME DE VOLAILLE JEANNETTE

Poach a fowl; let it cool; raise its _suprêmes_, and cut each into four collops, trimmed to the shape of ovals. Coat these collops with white chaud-froid sauce, and decorate them with tarragon leaves, _blanched_, cooled, well-drained and very green.

Let a layer of aspic jelly one-half in. thick set on the bottom of a timbale or a square dish; upon this layer set some slices of foie-gras Parfait, cut to the shape of the collops, and place one of the latter on each slice of the Parfait. This done, cover with fine half-melted chicken jelly.

When about to serve, incrust the dish or the timbale in a block of carved ice.

1711—MOUSSE DE VOLAILLE FROIDE

The carefully boned and skinned meat of a poached fowl may be used in the preparation of this _mousse_, but a freshly-roasted fowl, scarcely cooled, is preferable; the latter’s flavour being more delicate and more distinct.

The quantities and the mode of procedure for cold fowl _mousse_ are those given under “mousse de tomates” (No. 814).

The various _mousse_ recipes which I gave for trout (Nos. 813 and 815) may be applied to cold fillets of fowl. In this case, the latter may be coated with some kind of chaud-froid sauce, or simply glazed with jelly, and soberly decorated.

These mousses constitute excellent dishes for suppers, and from a very long list of them I may quote:—

Mousse de jambon au blanc de poulet.
Mousse de foie gras au blanc de poulet.
Mousse de langue au blanc de poulet.
Mousse de tomates au blanc de poulet.
Mousse d’écrevisses au blanc de poulet.
Mousse d’airelles ou de canneberges au blanc de poulet.
Mousse de physalis au blanc de poulet.

1712—MAYONNAISE DE VOLAILLE

Garnish the bottom of a salad-bowl with _ciseled_ lettuce, arranging it in the shape of a dome. Season with a little salt and a few drops of vinegar. Upon this salad arrange the cold collops of boiled or roast fowl, carefully cleared of all skin.

Cover with mayonnaise sauce; smooth the latter and decorate with capers; small stoned olives; anchovy fillets; quartered hard-boiled eggs; small quartered or whole lettuce hearts.

Arrange these decorating constituents according to fancy, as no hard and fast rule can be given.

When about to serve, mix as for a salad.

1713—CHICKEN SALAD

This dish consists of the same ingredients as the preceding one, except for the mayonnaise, which is replaced by an ordinary seasoning added just before mixing and serving.

1714—PÂTÉ DE POULET

Line a raised-pie mould with patty paste (No. 2359), taking care to leave a fine crest.

Bone a fowl weighing about four or five lbs. Set the _suprêmes_ (each cut into three collops) to _marinade_ in a glass of brandy, salt, pepper, nutmeg, and five medium-sized peeled truffles, each cut into four or five thick slices.

With what remains of the fowl’s meat, as much lean pork and veal (mixed in equal quantities) and twice as much fresh, pork fat (_i.e._, a quantity equal in weight to all the other meats put together), prepare a very smooth forcemeat; chopping the whole first, then pounding it and rubbing it through a sieve. Add to this forcemeat a little truffle essence; the _marinade_ of the fillets; one raw egg, and the necessary seasoning, to wit: salt, pepper, and nutmeg.

Line the bottom and sides of the pie with this forcemeat; on this first layer of forcemeat lay a thin slice of bacon and thick slices of tongue, beef, or ham. Place thereon another slice of bacon, followed by a thin layer of forcemeat, a layer of truffle slices, another layer of forcemeat, the collops of fowl, another layer of forcemeat, one more layer of truffles, one more layer of forcemeat, one more layer of tongue or ham (between two thin slices of bacon); and finally cover the whole with what remains of the forcemeat and a slice of larding bacon superposed by a bay-leaf. Now close the pie with a cover of the same paste as that already used, carefully seal down the cover to the crest of the underlying paste, trim and pinch the crest, and deck this cover of paste with imitation-leaves of the same paste.

Make a slit in the top of the pie, for the escape of steam; carefully _gild_ the cover and the crest, and bake in a moderate oven for about one and one-quarter hours. On withdrawing the pie from the oven, let it half cool, and fill it with a succulent, chicken jelly. Allow this dish to cool for at least twenty-four hours before serving.

N.B.—With this recipe as model, and by substituting another piece of poultry or game for the fowl, raised pies may be prepared from every kind of game or poultry, except water-game, which only yields mediocre results.

In the case of game pies, the forcemeat is combined with one-sixth of its weight of _gratin_ forcemeat (No. 202) and an equal quantity of fat bacon is suppressed. The chicken jelly is also replaced by a jelly prepared from the carcasses of the birds under treatment.

Dish these raised pies plainly, on napkins, and very cold.

1714a—CHICKEN PIE

See No. 1660.

1715—DINDONNEAU (Young Turkey)

Young turkeys, served as relevés or entrées, admit of all the recipes given for pullets; therefore, in order to avoid unnecessary repetition, the reader is begged to refer to those recipes.

Those most generally applied to young turkeys are the ones termed “à l’Anglaise”—with celery, à la Financière, à la Godard, and à la Jardinière.

In addition to these preparations, there are others which are better suited and are more proper to young turkeys, and these I give below.

1716—DINDONNEAU FARCI AUX MARRONS

Cut open the shells of two and one-quarter lbs. of chestnuts; immerse them for a few seconds in smoking fat; peel them, and almost completely cook them in consommé. Then mix them with two lbs. of very finely-chopped pork, rubbed through tammy. Fill the bird with this preparation; truss it, and roast it on the spit or in the oven, basting frequently the while.

Serve with the gravy separately. The latter should be somewhat fat.

1717—DINDONNEAU A LA CATALANE

Cut up the young turkey as for a fricassée, and fry the pieces in three oz. of butter. When the pieces are nicely browned, swill the utensil with one pint of white wine; season with salt and pepper; add a piece, the size of a pea, of crushed garlic, and completely reduce. Then moisten with sufficient tomato purée and equal quantities of Espagnole and brown stock to just cover the pieces.

Cook in the oven for forty minutes; transfer the pieces to another dish after having trimmed them, and add one-half lb. of raw, quartered mushrooms, _sautéd_ in butter; twenty chestnuts cooked in consommé; twenty small, glazed onions; five quartered tomatoes, and ten sausages.

Strain the sauce over the pieces of turkey; complete the cooking for twenty-five minutes, and dish in a timbale.

1718—DINDONNEAU CHIPOLATA

This may be prepared in two ways, according as to whether it be intended for lunch or for dinner.

(1) Cut up the young turkey and fry the pieces in butter as above. Swill with one glassful of white wine; add a sufficient quantity of _tomatéd_ half-glaze sauce, just to cover the pieces, and cook in the oven for forty minutes.

This done, transfer the pieces to another stewpan and add thereto twenty small, glazed onions, twenty chestnuts cooked in consommé, ten chipolata sausages, one-third lb. of frizzled pieces of fresh pork cut into dice, and twenty olive-shaped and glazed carrots. Strain the sauce over the whole, complete the cooking and dish in a timbale.

(2) Braise the young turkey; glaze it at the last moment, and set on a long dish. Surround it with the garnish given above, combined with the reduced braising-liquor.

1719—DINDONNEAU EN DAUBE

Bone the young turkey’s breast, and stuff it, arranging its meat as for a galantine, with very good sausage-meat combined with a glassful of liqueur brandy per two lbs. of the former; bacon, truffles; and a very small and red ox-tongue, covered with slices of bacon and set in the centre of the garnish.

Reconstruct the young turkey; sew it; truss it, and put it in a _terrine_ just large enough to hold it and its moistening.

With the bones and the trimmings of the young turkey, two slices of veal, two lbs. of frizzled beef, aromatics, one pint of white wine, and two quarts of water, prepare a brown stock after recipe No. 9. Reduce this stock to one and one-half quarts; put it into the _terrine_; cover and thoroughly close up the latter with a strip of paste, and cook in a hot oven for two and one-half hours.

Leave to cool in the _terrine_, and, when about to serve, slightly heat the latter in order to turn out the daube.

1720—BLANC DE DINDONNEAU A LA DAMPIERRE

Remove and bone the young turkey’s legs. With the meat, carefully cleared of all tendons, prepare a _mousseline_ forcemeat; spread the latter on a tray in a layer one-third in. thick, and poach it. Stamp it out with an even, oval fancy-cutter, about three in. by two in.

Braise or _poële_ the young turkey’s breast with the greatest care, keeping it underdone. This done, raise the two _suprêmes_, skin them, and cut them into collops of a size that will allow of their being trimmed with the fancy-cutter already used. With a little raw forcemeat, stick a collop to each oval of poached forcemeat; then, by means of a piping-bag fitted with an even pipe, garnish the borders of the collops with the same forcemeat combined with twice its bulk of chopped salted tongue. Set the medallions thus prepared on a covered tray, and put them in the steamer that the forcemeat may poach.

When about to serve, take the piping-bag and make a fine rosette of a purée of peas in the centre of each medallion. Set these medallions in a circle on a round dish, around a little bowl of carved, fried bread, garnished with the same purée of peas.

Serve separately a velouté prepared from the bones of the dindonneau.

1721—BLANC DE DINDONNEAU A LA TOULOUSAINE

_Poële_ the young turkey. When it is cooked, raise its _suprêmes_, skin them, and cut them into somewhat thick collops.

Dish these collops in a circle, and set a collop of foie gras, _sautéd_ in butter, between each.

Pour a Toulousaine garnish in their midst, and surround with a thread of light glaze.

1722—AILERONS DE DINDONNEAU DORÉS A LA PURÉE DE MARRONS

The pinions referred to in this recipe are pinions properly so called; that is to say, they consist of the two last joints of the wing. When they are properly prepared, they constitute one of the most savoury luncheon entrées that can be served.

The pinions of large pullets may be treated in this way.

Clear and singe the pinions, and set them in a buttered sautépan, just large enough to hold them. Colour gently on both sides and drain.

In the same butter, gently brown a sliced carrot and onion, to which add a few parsley stalks and a little thyme and bay. Set the pinions on these aromatics; season moderately with salt and pepper; cover the sautépan, and continue cooking gently in a very slow oven, basting often the while.

The dish will be all the better for having been cooked slowly and regularly. Do not moisten, if possible, or, at the most, only do so with a few drops of water, in order to keep the butter from clarifying—not an unusual occurrence when the heat is too fierce.

When the pinions are cooked, dish them radially, and cover them that they may keep warm. Add a few tablespoonfuls of light stock or some water to the cooking butter, and set to boil gently for fifteen minutes. When this stock is sufficiently reduced to only half-immerse the pinions, pass it through a fine strainer and clear of some of the grease if necessary; remember, however, that this stock should be somewhat fat.

Pour it over the pinions, and serve a timbale of a fine purée of marrons separately.

1722a—DINDONNEAU FROID

All the recipes given for cold pullets may be applied to this bird.

=Goose (Oie)=

The principal value of the goose from the culinary point of view lies in the fact that it supplies the best, most delicate and firmest foie gras.

Apart from this property, the preciousness of which is truly inestimable, goose is really only served at bourgeois or family tables.

1722b—OISON A L’ALLEMANDE

Completely bone the gosling’s breast; season it inside, and stuff it with quartered, peeled and cored apples, half-cooked in butter.

Sew up the openings, and braise gently, basting with fat the while.

When the gosling is cooked, dish it and surround it with peeled apples, cored by means of the tube-cutter, cooked in butter, and garnished with red-currant jelly. Drain away three-quarters of the grease; swill the braising-pan with the required quantity of good gravy for roasts; strain this gravy, and serve it separately.

1722c—OISON A L’ALSACIENNE

Stuff the gosling with very good sausage-meat; truss; colour in butter and _poële_. Dish and surround with sauerkraut braised in goose grease, and rectangles of lean bacon, cooked with the sauerkraut.

1723—OISON A L’ANGLAISE

Cook one lb. of unpeeled onions in the oven. When they are cold, peel them; chop them, and add to them an equal weight of soaked and pressed bread, one oz. of fresh or chopped sage, salt, pepper and nutmeg.

Stuff the gosling with this preparation; truss it, and roast it on the spit or in the oven.

Dish it; surround it with the gravy, which should be somewhat fat, and serve a sauceboat of slightly-sugared, stewed apples, separately.

1724—OISON EN CIVET

When killing the gosling, carefully collect its blood. Add the juice of a lemon and beat it, so as to prevent coagulation, until it is quite cold.

Cut the gosling into pieces and proceed exactly as for “Civet de Lièvre” (No. 1821).

1725—OISON AU RAIFORT

Braise the gosling.

Dish it and surround it, either with noodles with butter, or rice au gras (No. 2252). Besprinkle the garnish with the reduced braising-liquor, and serve a horse-radish sauce with cream (No. 138), separately.

N.B.—Besides these various recipes, goslings may also be prepared like young turkeys, _i.e._, with chestnuts, à la Chipolata, en Daube; or with turnips, peas, and “en Salmis,” like Duck.

1726—FOIE GRAS

Foies gras are supplied either by geese or ducks. Goose’s liver is larger, firmer and less readily melted than that of the duck. As a rule the former should be selected in preference, more particularly in the matter of hot dishes. Nevertheless, failing goose’s liver, duck’s liver may be used and with very good results when its quality is good.

Foies gras are used in the preparation of _terrines_, raised pies, parfaits and _mousses_, which are among the most delicate and richest of cold dishes.

They may also be used as a garnishing ingredient, in the form of collops or _mousseline_ quenelles. Finally, they may also be served as hot entrées.

When a whole foie gras is to be served hot, it must first be trimmed, studded with raw truffles which have been previously peeled, quartered, seasoned with salt and pepper, stiffened in a glassful of brandy, together with a bay-leaf, and cooled in a thoroughly closed _terrine_.

When the foie gras has been studded with truffles, wrap it in thin slices of bacon or a piece of pig’s caul, and set it in a thoroughly-sealed _terrine_ before cooking it.