Chapter XVIII: Vegetables and Farinaceous Products (1)

The preparatory treatment of vegetables—parboiling and braising, &c.—having been explained in Chapter X., as also the preparation of purées, creams, and vegetable garnishes, it is now only necessary to deal with each vegetable separately.

=Artichokes (Artichauts)=

2028—ARTICHAUTS A LA BARIGOULE

Take some very fresh and tender artichokes. After having trimmed their tops, take off the outermost leaves; parboil the artichokes; remove their hearts, and completely clear them of their chokes. Season them inside, and fill them with a preparation of Duxelles (No. 224), combined with a quarter of its weight of fresh, grated, fat bacon, and as much butter.

Wrap the stuffed artichokes in thin slices of bacon; string them, and set them in a saucepan prepared for braising. Braise them gently with white wine, and cook them well.

When about to serve them, remove the string and the bacon, and dish them.

Strain the braising-liquor, and clear it of grease; thicken it with the necessary quantity of good half-glaze sauce; reduce it sufficiently to produce only a very little sauce, and pour the latter over the artichokes.

2029—CŒURS D’ARTICHAUTS A LA CLAMART

Select some very tender small artichokes, and trim them.

Set them in a buttered _cocotte_, with a small quartered carrot and three tablespoonfuls of freshly-shelled peas to each artichoke, add a large faggot and a little water, and salt moderately. Cover and cook gently in a steamer. When about to serve, withdraw the faggot, and slightly thicken the liquor with a little _manied_ butter.

Serve the preparation in the _cocotte_.

2030—ARTICHOKES WITH DIVERS SAUCES

Cut the artichokes evenly to within two-thirds of their height; trim them all round; string them, and plunge them into slightly-salted boiling water. Cook them rather quickly; drain them well, just before serving them, and remove the string.

Dish on a napkin, and send a butter, a Hollandaise, or a mousseline sauce, &c., at the same time.

When artichokes, cooked in this way, have to be served cold, remove their chokes, dish them on a napkin, and send a Vinaigrette sauce separately.

2031—ARTICHAUTS A LA PROVENÇALE

Select some very small Provençal artichokes; trim them, and put them in an earthenware stewpan containing some very hot oil. Season with salt and pepper; cover the stewpan, and leave to cook for about ten minutes.

Then add, for each twelve artichokes, one pint of very tender, freshly-shelled peas, and a coarse _julienne_ of one lettuce.

Cover once more, and cook gently without moistening. The moisture of the peas and the lettuce suffices for the moistening, provided the stewpan be well covered and the fire be not too fierce—both of which conditions are necessary to prevent evaporation on too large a scale.

2032—QUARTIERS D’ARTICHAUTS A L’ITALIENNE

Turn, trim, and quarter some fair-sized artichokes. Trim the quarters, removing the chokes therefrom; rub them with a piece of lemon to prevent their blackening; plunge them one by one into fresh water; parboil and drain them. This done, set them in a sautépan on a litter of aromatics, as for braising; make them sweat in the oven for seven or eight minutes; moisten with white wine; reduce the latter; and moisten again, to within half their height, with brown stock. Cook gently in the oven until the quarters are very tender.

When about to serve, set them in a vegetable dish; strain the cooking-liquor; clear it of grease, and reduce it; add an Italian sauce to it, and pour this sauce over the quartered artichokes.

2033—FONDS D’ARTICHAUTS FARCIS

Select some medium-sized artichokes; clear them of their leaves and their chokes; trim their bottoms, rub them with lemon to prevent their blackening, and cook them in a Blanc (No. 167), keeping them somewhat firm.

After having drained them, stuff them with a little Duxelles, prepared according to No. 224. Arrange them on a buttered dish; sprinkle the Duxelles with fine raspings and a little melted butter, and set in a hot oven for a _gratin_ to form.

Serve a Madeira sauce at the same time.

2034—FONDS D’ARTICHAUTS A LA FLORENTINE

Prepare the artichoke-bottoms as above.

Meanwhile fry a large, chopped onion in butter; add thereto two-thirds lb. of parboiled and chopped spinach per twelve artichokes. Stir over an open fire, that all moisture may evaporate, and add salt and pepper, a piece of crushed garlic the size of a pea, a tablespoonful of anchovy purée, and two tablespoonfuls of Velouté. Cook gently for ten minutes.

Stuff the artichoke-bottoms with this preparation; arrange them on a buttered dish; coat with Mornay sauce; sprinkle with Gruyère, cut _brunoise-fashion_, and set to glaze in a fierce oven.

Upon withdrawing the dish from the oven, sprinkle the artichoke-bottoms with a few drops of melted anchovy butter.

2035—FONDS D’ARTICHAUTS AUX POINTES D’ASPERGES

Prepare the artichoke-bottoms as above; stew them in butter, and garnish them with asparagus-heads, cohered with cream, and heaped in pyramid-form.

Lay them on a buttered dish; coat with Mornay sauce, and set to glaze quickly.

2036—FONDS D’ARTICHAUTS SAUTÉS

Remove the leaves and the chokes from the artichokes, trim the bottoms, and slice them up raw. Season them with salt and pepper; toss them in butter; set them in a vegetable-dish, and sprinkle them with herbs.

2037—PURÉE OU CRÈME D’ARTICHAUTS

Take some very tender artichokes; trim and turn the bottoms, and half-cook them, keeping them very white. Complete their cooking in butter, and rub them through a fine sieve, together with the butter used in cooking.

Put the purée thus obtained in a saucepan, and add to it the half of its bulk of mashed, very smooth, and creamy potatoes.

Finish the purée with a little fresh and a little hazel-nut butter, the latter being used to increase the flavour of the artichokes.

2038—ASPARAGUS (Asperges)

The best-known varieties of asparagus in England are:—

1. The Lauris asparagus, which is par excellence the early-season kind.

2. The green, Parisian asparagus, which is very small, and of which the most diminutive sticks, also called sprew, serve for garnishes.

3. The Argenteuil asparagus—very much in demand while it is in season.

4. English asparagus, which is somewhat delicate in quality, but inclined to be small. During the season there are, besides, several other kinds of asparagus imported from Spain or France, which, though not equal to the four kinds above mentioned, may nevertheless be used for soups or garnishes instead of asparagus-heads or sprew.

Asparagus should be had as fresh as possible; it should be cleaned with care, quickly washed, tied into faggots, and cooked in plenty of salted water. Certain kinds, the flavour of which is somewhat bitter, should be transferred to other water as soon as cooked, with the view of reducing their bitterness.

Asparagus is dished on special silver drainers, or on napkins.

2039—ASPERGES A LA FLAMANDE

According to Flemish custom, asparagus is served with one hot, hard-boiled half-egg, and one oz. of melted butter per person. The egg-yolk is crushed, seasoned, and finished with the butter by the consumers themselves. This accompaniment may also be prepared beforehand and served in a sauceboat.

2040—ASPERGES AU GRATIN

Dish the asparagus in rows, and coat the heads of each row with a little Mornay sauce. When all are dished, two-thirds cover the bunch with a band of buttered paper, and coat the uncovered portion with Mornay sauce. Sprinkle with grated Parmesan; glaze quickly at the salamander, remove the paper, and serve at once.

2041—ASPERGES A LA MILANAISE

Having thoroughly drained the asparagus, set it on a long, buttered dish sprinkled with grated Parmesan; arrange it in successive rows, each of which sprinkle in the region of the heads with grated Parmesan. When about to serve, cover the cheese-powdered parts copiously with nut-brown butter, and set to glaze slightly at the salamander.

2042—ASPERGES A LA POLONAISE

Thoroughly drain the asparagus; set it on a long dish, in rows, and besprinkle the heads with hard-boiled egg-yolk and chopped parsley, mixed. When about to serve, cover the heads with nut-brown butter, combined with one oz. of very fresh and fine bread-crumbs per four oz. of butter.

2043—ASPARAGUS WITH VARIOUS SAUCES

Butter sauce, Hollandaise, _Mousseline_, and Maltese sauces are the most usual adjuncts to asparagus. Béarnaise sauce without herbs is also served occasionally, likewise melted butter.

When eaten cold, it may be served with oil and vinegar or a mayonnaise—more particularly a Chantilly mayonnaise, _i.e._, one to which beaten cream has been added.

2044—SPREW WITH BUTTER (Pointes d’Asperges)

Sprew or green asparagus is chiefly used for garnishing or as a garnishing ingredient, but it may also be served as a vegetable with perfect propriety. Cut the heads into two-inch lengths, and put them together in faggots.

Cut what remains of them into bits the size of peas. After having washed the latter, plunge them into boiling salted water, and cook them quickly, that they may keep green.

This done, thoroughly drain them; let their moisture evaporate by tossing them over the fire; cohere them with butter, away from the fire, and dish them in a timbale with the faggots on top.

They are usually served in small patty crusts, or in small tartlet crusts, with a few sprew tops on each small patty or tartlet.

2045—POINTES D’ASPERGES A LA CRÈME

Prepare them, and cook them in salted water as above.

Their cohesion with cream is in pursuance of the procedure common to other vegetables similarly prepared, and they are served like those of No. 2044.

=Egg-Plant (Aubergines)=

2046—AUBERGINES A L’ÉGYPTIENNE

Cut them into two lengthwise; trim them round the edges; _cisel_ the middle of each with the view of facilitating the cooking process, and cook them.

Drain them; remove the pulp from their insides, and set the shells on a buttered _gratin_ dish.

This done, chop up the withdrawn pulp; add thereto a little chopped onion cooked in oil, and the same quantity of very lean, chopped, and cooked mutton as there is egg-plant pulp.

Fill the egg-plant shells with this preparation; sprinkle with a few drops of oil, and set in the oven for fifteen minutes. On withdrawing the dish from the oven, set on each egg-plant a few roundels of tomato, tossed in oil; sprinkle with chopped parsley, and serve.

2047—AUBERGINES AU GRATIN

Fry the egg-plants as above; empty them, chop up their pulps, and add to it an equal weight of dry Duxelles (No. 223). Garnish the shells with this preparation, set them on a _gratin_ dish, sprinkle them with raspings and a few drops of oil, and cause the _gratin_ to form.

Surround the egg-plants with a border of light half-glaze sauce when serving.

2048—AUBERGINES FRITES

Cut the egg-plants into thin roundels; season and dredge them, and fry them in smoking oil. Dish them on a napkin, and serve immediately, that they may be eaten crisp. If they wait at all, they soften, and thereby lose quality.

2049—AUBERGINES A LA PROVENÇALE

Proceed as for No. 2047, but replace the Duxelles by tomatoes tossed in oil and flavoured with a little garlic.

Set the _gratin_ to form in the same way, and surround the egg-plants with a border of tomato sauce when taking them out of the oven.

2050—AUBERGINES SOUFFLÉES

Cut some fine egg-plants into two; _cisel_ them, and fry them in the usual way; remove the pulp from their insides, and set the shells on a buttered _gratin_ dish. Finely chop the withdrawn pulp, and mix therewith an equal quantity of reduced Béchamel sauce, combined with grated Parmesan.

Add some white of egg beaten to a stiff froth, allowing as much of it as for an ordinary _soufflé_.

Garnish the egg-plant shells with this preparation, and cook in a moderate oven, as for ordinary _soufflé_. On withdrawing the dish from the oven, serve instantly.

2051—AUBERGINES A LA TURQUE

Peel the egg-plants and cut them, each lengthwise, into six slices.

Season, dredge, and fry these slices in oil; pair them off, and join them together by means of a very firm preparation of raw egg-yolks and grated, fresh cheese. When about to serve, dip them into batter, and fry them in smoking oil.

Dish on a napkin with very green fried parsley.

These stuffed slices of egg-plant may be treated _à l’anglaise_ instead of with batter.

2052—CARDOONS (Cardons)

_Treatment and Cooking Process._—After having suppressed the green outside leaf-stalks, detach the white ones all round, and cut these into three-inch lengths. Peel these lengths, rub them with lemon, that they may not blacken, and throw them, one by one, into fresh acidulated water.

Prepare the heart of the cardoon in the same way, after having withdrawn the fibrous parts, and cook the whole in a Blanc (No. 167), with one lb. of chopped veal fat, sprinkled over its surface, that the cardoon may be kept from blackening by exposure to the air.

Cook gently for about one and one-half hours.

2053—CARDONS AU PARMESAN

After having well drained the sections, build them into a pyramid in successive layers. Sprinkle each row with a few drops of good half-glaze sauce, and with grated Parmesan. Cover the whole with the same sauce; sprinkle with grated Parmesan, and set to glaze quickly.

2054—CARDONS A LA MORNAY

Proceed exactly as above, but replace half-glaze sauce by Mornay sauce. Glaze quickly, and serve immediately.

2055—CARDONS A LA MILANAISE

Proceed as for “Asperges à la Milanaise” (No. 2041).

2056—CARDONS WITH VARIOUS SAUCES

They may be served either with gravy, or Half-glaze, Cream, Hollandaise, _Mousseline_, Italienne, or Bordelaise sauces.

The sauce is either poured over them or served separately.

If the sauce be poured over the cardoons, they are dished in a timbale; if the sauce be sent separately, they may be served on a silver drainer, like asparagus.

2057—CARDONS A LA MOELLE

Dish the cardoons in a pyramid on a round dish; cover them with a marrow sauce (No. 45), and surround them with very small puff-paste patties garnished with poached marrow dice. Or dish the cardoons in a timbale, and set thereon the heart cut into roundels and arranged in a crown, with a slice of poached marrow on each roundel of heart.

Cover the whole with marrow sauce.

2058—CŒUR DE CARDON AUX FINES HERBES

Having cooked the heart of the cardoon, trim it all round so as to give it the cylindrical shape, and cut it laterally into roundels one-third inch thick.

Roll these roundels in some pale, thin, buttered meat glaze, combined with chopped herbs. Prepared in this way, the heart of a cardoon constitutes an excellent garnish for Tournedos and _sautéd_ chickens.

=Carrots (Carottes)=

2059—CAROTTES GLACÉES POUR GARNITURES

New carrots are not parboiled; they are turned, whole, halved, or quartered, according to their size, and then trimmed. If old, they should be turned to the shape of elongated olives, and parboiled before being set to cook.

Put the carrots in a saucepan with enough water to cover them well, one-half oz. of salt, one oz. of sugar, and two oz. of butter per pint of water.

Cook until the water has almost entirely evaporated, so that the reduction may have the consistence of a syrup. _Sauté_ the carrots in this reduction, that they may be covered with a brilliant coat.

Whatever be the ultimate purpose for which the carrots are intended, they should be prepared in this way.

2060—CAROTTES A LA CRÈME

Prepare the carrots as above, and, when the moistening is reduced to the consistence of a syrup, cover them with boiling cream.

Sufficiently reduce the latter, and dish in a timbale.

2061—CAROTTES A LA VICHY

Slice the carrots, and, if they be old, parboil them.

Treat them exactly after the manner of the “Glazed Carrots” of No. 2059; dish them in a timbale, and sprinkle them with chopped parsley.

2062—PURÉE DE CAROTTES

Slice the carrots, and cook them in slightly-salted water, with sugar and butter, as for “Glazed Carrots,” and a quarter of their weight of rice. Drain them as soon as they are cooked; rub them through a fine sieve; transfer the purée to a sautépan, and dry it over a fierce fire, together with three oz. of butter per lb. of purée.

Now add a sufficient quantity of either milk or consommé to give it the consistence of an ordinary purée. Dish in a timbale with triangular _croûtons_ of bread-crumbs, fried in butter at the last moment.

This purée is very commonly served as a garnish with braised pieces of veal.

2063—FLAN AUX CAROTTES

This is served either as a vegetable or a sweet.

Line a flawn ring with good, short paste (No. 2358); coat the inside of the flawn with a round piece of paper, and fill it with rice or split peas. Bake it without letting it brown; remove the split peas or the rice, as also the paper, and garnish the flawn crust with a slightly sugared purée of carrots. Cover this purée with half-discs of carrot cooked as for No. 2059, and kept unbroken. Coat with the cooking-liquor of the carrots reduced to a syrup, and put the flawn in the oven for five minutes.

2064—CELERY (Céleri)

Celery for braising should be non-fibrous, white, and very tender. Cut the sticks till they measure only eight inches from their roots; remove the green leaves all round; trim the root; wash with great care, parboil for one-quarter hour, and cool.

This done, braise them after recipe No. 275. When they are cooked, cut each stick into three pieces, and double up each section before dishing and serving.

2065—VARIOUS PREPARATIONS OF CELERY

The recipes given for cardoons may be applied to celery. On referring to the respective recipes, therefore, celery may be prepared:—

_Au Parmesan_, _Sauce Mornay_, _à la Milanaise_, _Italienne_, _Hollandaise_, with gravy, &c.

2066—PURÉE DE CÉLERI

Slice the celery; parboil it, and stew it, until it is quite cooked, in a little very fat consommé.

Drain as soon as cooked; rub through a sieve, adding the while the cooking-liquor cleared of all grease; thicken the purée with about one quart of very white and firm potato purée; heat; add butter at the last moment, and dish in a timbale.

2067—PURÉE DE CÉLERI-RAVE (Celeriac)

Peel the celeriac; cut it into sections, and cook it in salted water.

Drain and rub it through tammy, adding plain-boiled, quartered potatoes the while in the proportion of one-third of the weight of the purée of celeriac.

Put the purée in a sautépan; add to it three oz. of butter per lb.; dry it over a fierce fire, and bring it to its normal consistence by means of milk. When about to serve, add butter, away from the fire, and dish in a timbale.

=Cèpes=

Those _cèpes_ which are barely opened or not opened at all are not parboiled. Contrariwise, those which are open should be washed, parboiled, and stewed in butter, after having been well dried.

2068—CÈPES A LA BORDELAISE

Collop the _cèpes_; season them with salt and pepper; put them into very hot oil, and toss them until they are thoroughly frizzled. Almost at the last moment add, per one-half lb. of _cèpes_, one oz. of _cèpe_ stalks, which should have been put aside and chopped up, one teaspoonful of chopped shallots, and a tablespoonful of bread-crumbs—the object of which is to absorb any excess of oil, once the _cèpes_ have been served.

Toss the whole together for a few minutes; dish in a timbale, and complete with a few drops of lemon juice and some chopped parsley.

2069—CÈPES A LA CRÈME

Collop the _cèpes_, and stew them in butter with a dessertspoonful of chopped onion per one-half lb. of _cèpes_; the onion should have been cooked in butter, without colouration.

When they are stewed, drain them; cover them with boiling cream, and boil gently until the latter is completely reduced. At the last moment finish with a little thin cream, and dish in a timbale.

2070—CÈPES A LA PROVENÇALE

Proceed as for No. 2068, but substitute for the shallots some chopped onion and a mite of crushed garlic.

Dish in a timbale, and complete with a few drops of lemon juice and some chopped parsley.

2071—CÈPES A LA ROSSINI

Proceed as for No. 2069, and add to the _cèpes_ one-third of their weight of thickly-sliced, raw truffles, stewed at the same time as the former. When about to serve, finish with a little pale melted meat glaze, and dish in a timbale.

=Mushrooms (Champignons)=

Cookery includes under this head only the white Parisian mushroom and the meadow mushroom, which is the kind so commonly used in England.

The other kinds are always identified by special and proper terms.

2072—CHAMPIGNONS A LA CRÈME

Proceed as described under No. 2069.

2073—CHAMPIGNONS SAUTÉS

After having washed the mushrooms, dried, and _ciseled_ them, and seasoned them with salt and pepper, toss them with butter in a frying-pan over a fierce fire. Sprinkle them with chopped parsley at the last moment, and dish them in a timbale.

2074—CHAMPIGNONS GRILLÉS

Take some large Parisian or meadow mushrooms. Carefully peel them; season them; smear them with oil, by means of a brush, and grill them gently.

Set them on a round dish, and garnish their midst with well-softened, Maître-d’Hôtel butter.

2075—CHAMPIGNONS FARCIS

Select some fine, medium-sized mushrooms; suppress their stalks; wash them, and dry them well. Set them on a dish; season them; sprinkle them with a few drops of oil; put them in the oven for five minutes, and garnish their midst with Duxelles (No. 224) shaped like a dome, and thickened or not with bread-crumbs.

Sprinkle the surface with fine raspings and a few drops of oil or melted butter, and set the _gratin_ to form in a somewhat fierce oven.

2076—FLAN GRILLÉ AUX CHAMPIGNONS

Line a buttered flawn-mould with good lining paste (No. 2358).

Garnish it with very fresh and barely opened English mushrooms, tossed in butter with a little chopped onion, cohered with cream, and cooled.

Moisten the edges of the flawn-mould, and deck it with criss-cross strips of short paste, as for a latticed apple-flawn.

_Gild_ the lattice work; bake the flawn in a very hot oven, and serve it the moment it is withdrawn.

2077—TARTELETTES GRILLÉES AUX CHAMPIGNONS

These tartlets constitute an excellent and beautiful garnish, more particularly for Tournedos and Noisettes. Proceed exactly as for No. 2076, but use tartlet moulds the size of which is determined by the dimensions of the piece or preparation which they are to accompany.

2078—TURNED AND GROOVED MUSHROOMS FOR GARNISHING

Take some very fresh mushrooms; wash and drain them quickly.

Suppress their stalks flush with their heads; turn or groove the latter with the point of a small knife, and throw them, one by one, into a boiling liquor prepared as follows:—

For two lbs. of mushrooms, put one-sixth pint of water, one-third oz. of salt, two oz. of butter, and the juice of one and one-half lemons, in a saucepan. Boil; add the mushrooms, and cook for five minutes. Transfer to a bowl immediately, and cover with a piece of buttered paper.

2079—PURÉE DE CHAMPIGNONS

Clean, wash, and dry two lbs. of mushrooms. Quickly peel them, and rub them through a sieve. Put this purée of raw mushrooms into a sautépan with two-thirds pint of reduced Béchamel sauce, and one-sixth pint of cream. Season with salt, white pepper, and nutmeg; reduce over an open fire for a few minutes, and finish, away from the fire, with three oz. of best butter.

2080—MORELS (Morilles)

The Spring mushroom or Morel is the one most preferred by connoisseurs. There are two kinds of morels—the pale and the brown kind—both excellent, though some prefer the former to the latter, and vice versâ.

In spite of what connoisseurs may say regarding the error of washing morels, I advocate the operation, and urge the reader to effect it carefully, and without omitting to open out the alveolate parts, so as to wash away any sand particles that may be lodged therein.

_The Cooking of Morels._—If they be small, leave them whole; if large, halve or quarter them. After having properly drained them, put them in a saucepan with two oz. of butter, the juice of a lemon, and a pinch of salt and another of pepper per lb. of morels. Boil, and then stew for ten or twelve minutes. Never forget that the vegetable juices produced by the morels should be reduced and added to their accompanying sauce.

2081—MORILLES A LA CRÈME

Proceed as for _Cèpes_ and Mushrooms with Cream.

2082—MORILLES FARCIES

Select some large morels, and wash them well.

Suppress their stems; chop them up, and prepare them like a Duxelles (No. 223).

Add to this Duxelles half of its bulk of very smooth sausage-meat.

Open the morels on one side; fill them with the prepared forcemeat, and set them on a buttered dish, opened side nethermost.

Sprinkle with fine raspings, and use plenty of melted butter; cook for twenty minutes in a moderate oven, and serve the dish as it stands.

2083—MORILLES A LA POULETTE

Cook them as described under No. 2080, and add them to a Poulette sauce (No. 101), together with their cooking-liquor reduced.

Dish in a timbale, and sprinkle with a pinch of chopped parsley.

2084—MORILLES SAUTÉES

After having thoroughly washed the morels, dry them well in a towel, and halve or quarter them according to their size.

Season them with salt and pepper, and _sauté_ them with butter in an omelet-pan, over a sufficiently fierce fire, to avoid the exudation of their vegetable moisture. Dish them in a timbale; squeeze a few drops of lemon juice over them, and sprinkle them with chopped parsley.

2085—TOURTE DE MORILLES

Cook the morels as explained under No. 2080, and drain them well.

Reduce their cooking-liquor by a quarter, and add to it two tablespoonfuls of very thick cream and one oz. of butter per lb. of morels.

Heat this sauce without boiling it, toss the morels in it, and set them in a _tourte_ crust, or merely in the centre of a crown of puff-paste, lying on a dish.

Morels prepared in this way may also be served in a Vol-au-vent crust (No. 2390).

2086—MOUSSERONS, ORONGES, GIROLES

These varieties of esculent fungi are not much liked in England.

The best way to prepare them is to toss them quickly in butter.

2087—BRIONNE (Chow-chow)

This excellent vegetable, which has only become known quite recently, is beginning to be appreciated by connoisseurs. It is in season from the end of October to the end of March—that is to say, at a time when cucumbers and vegetable marrows are over. It greatly resembles these last-named vegetables, and is prepared like them, while the recipes given for cardoons may also be applied to it.

2088—CHICORY, ENDIVE AND BELGIAN CHICORY (Chicorée Frisée, Escarole, Endive)

Three kinds of chicory are used for cooking, viz:—

1. Curled chicory, improperly termed “Endive” in England.

2. Flemish chicory, which is genuine endive in its primitive state, _i.e._, grown in the open air. It greatly resembles Escarole.

3. Brussels chicory, or the Belgian kind; obtained from cultivating the root of Flemish chicory in the dark.

This last kind is quite different from the first two, both with regard to its quality and its culinary treatment, and it will be dealt with later under the name of “Endive.”

2089—CHICORÉE A LA CRÈME

Parboil the chicory for ten minutes in plenty of boiling water. Cool it; press the water out of it, and chop it up.

Cohere it with four and one-half oz. of pale roux per two lbs. of chicory; moisten with one quart of consommé; season with salt and a pinch of powdered sugar, and braise in the oven, under cover, for one and one-half hours.

Upon withdrawing it from the oven, transfer it to another saucepan; add three-fifths pint of cream and two oz. of butter, and dish in a timbale.

2090—PAIN DE CHICORÉE

Braise the chicory as described above.

Upon withdrawing it from the oven, mix with it (per lb.) five stiffly-beaten eggs; put it into an even, buttered mould, and set to poach in a _bain-marie_.

Before unmoulding the “loaf,” let it rest awhile, that the middle may settle. Turn out just before serving, and cover with a cream sauce.

2091—PURÉE DE CHICORÉE

Braise the chicory, and rub it through a sieve. Mix it with one-third of its bulk of smooth mashed potatoes with cream; heat; add butter away from the fire, and dish in a timbale.

2092—SOUFFLÉ DE CHICORÉE

Braise about one-half lb. of chicory, keeping it somewhat stiff, and rub it through a sieve. Add to it the yolks of three eggs, also two oz. of grated Parmesan and the whites of three eggs, beaten to a stiff froth.

Dish in a buttered timbale; sprinkle with grated Parmesan, and cook after the manner of an ordinary _soufflé_.

N.B.—This _soufflé_ of chicory may also be cooked in small cases, and it makes an excellent garnish for large pieces of veal or ham.

2093—CHICORÉE A LA FLAMANDE

Cut the chicory into two-inch lengths; parboil it; cool it, and then proceed for the rest of the operation as described under No. 2089—the only difference being that it is not chopped.

2094—ENDIVES OR BRUSSELS CHICORY

Whatever be the purpose for which they are intended, endives should always be cooked preparatively as follows:—

After having washed and cleaned them, put them in a well-tinned saucepan containing (per three lbs. of endives) a liquor prepared from the juice of a lemon, a pinch of salt, one oz. of butter, and one-fifth pint of water. Cover the saucepan; boil quickly, and complete the cooking on the side of the fire for from thirty to thirty-five minutes.

Endives may thus be served plain, and constitute a very favourite vegetable or garnish. They may accompany all Relevés of butcher’s meat.

Some cardoon recipes may also be applied to them, more particularly _à la Mornay_, _à la Crème_, and _à la Milanaise_—all of which suit them admirably.

2095—CABBAGES (Choux)

From the culinary standpoint, cabbages may be divided into seven classes, as follows:—

1. White cabbages: used almost solely in the preparation of sauerkraut.

2. Red cabbages: used as a vegetable, as a hors-d’œuvre, or as a condiment.

3. Round-headed or Savoy cabbages: specially suited to braising and the English method of cooking.

4. Scotch kale and spring cabbages: always prepared in the English fashion.

5. Cauliflowers and broccoli: the flower of these is most commonly used, but the leaves are cooked in the English way when they are tender.

6. Brussels sprouts.

7. Kohlrabi: the roots of these may be dished as turnips, and the leaves cooked in the English way, provided they be young and tender.

2096—WHITE CABBAGES (Choux Blancs)

In an extreme case, these cabbages may be braised like the green Savoys, but they are usually too firm, and they are therefore only used in the preparation of sauerkraut.

2097—SAUERKRAUT (Choucroûte)

If the sauerkraut be somewhat old, set it to soak in cold water for a few hours. It is best, however, to avoid this measure, if possible, and to use only fresh sauerkraut.

When about to cook it, drain it, if it has been soaked, and press all the water out of it. Then pull it to pieces in such a way as to leave no massed leaves; season it with salt and pepper, and put it into a braising-pan lined with slices of bacon. Add, for ten lbs. of sauerkraut, three quartered carrots, three medium-sized onions, each stuck with a clove, a large faggot, three oz. of juniper berries and one-half oz. of peppercorns contained in a canvas bag, six oz. of goose dripping or lard, and one lb. of _blanched_ breast of bacon, the latter to be withdrawn after one hour’s cooking.

Moisten, just enough to cover, with white consommé; cover with slices of bacon; boil, and then cook in the oven for five hours with lid on.

_To serve Sauerkraut._—Withdraw the vegetables, the faggot, and the juniper berries, and set the sauerkraut in a timbale, after having well drained it.

Surround it with thin slices of ham, rectangles of bacon, and some poached Frankfort or Strasburg sausages.

=Red Cabbages (Choux Rouges)=

2098—CHOUX ROUGES A LA FLAMANDE

Quarter the cabbages, suppress the outside leaves and the stumps, and cut the trimmed leaves into a fine _julienne_. Season with salt, pepper, and nutmeg; sprinkle with vinegar, and put this _julienne_ into a well-buttered earthenware _cocotte_. Cover and cook in a moderate oven.

When the cooking is three-parts done, add four peeled and quartered russet apples and a tablespoonful of moist or powdered sugar.

Take note that the cooking must be gentle from start to finish, and that the only moistening should be the vinegar.

2099—MARINADED RED CABBAGES FOR HORS-D’ŒUVRE

Cut the cabbages into a small _julienne_ as above, and put them into a bowl or deep dish. Sprinkle with table salt, and leave to macerate for two days, stirring frequently the while.

Then drain, and put them into a pot with garlic cloves, peppercorns, and one bay leaf. Cover with raw vinegar, or the latter boiled and cooled, and leave to _marinade_ for a day or two.

This _marinaded_ cabbage forms an excellent adjunct to boiled beef.

=Choux Verts Pommés (Savoy Cabbages)=

2100—BRAISED CABBAGE

Quarter the cabbage; parboil and cool it.

Defoliate the quarters; suppress the outside leaves and the midribs of the remaining leaves; season with salt and pepper, and put the cabbage in a saucepan garnished with slices of bacon, and containing one quartered carrot, one onion stuck with a garlic clove, one faggot, two-thirds pint of consommé, and three tablespoonfuls of stock fat per two lbs. of cabbage. Cover with slices of bacon; boil, and then braise gently for two hours.

2101—CHOU A L’ANGLAISE

Plainly boil or steam the cabbage. Press all the water out of it, between two plates, and cut it into lozenges or squares.

2102—CHOU FARCI

Take a medium-sized round-headed or Savoy cabbage; parboil it; cool it, and suppress its stump. Slightly open out its leaves, and insert between them raw or cooked mince-meat, combined with chopped onion and parsley, and highly seasoned. Reconstruct the cabbage, pressing it closely together; wrap it in slices of bacon; string it, and braise it gently for three hours with stock and stock fat.

When about to serve, drain the cabbage; remove the string and the slices of bacon; set it on a dish, and cover it with a few tablespoonfuls of the braising-liquor, cleared of all grease, reduced, and thickened with some half-glaze sauce.

Send what remains of the braising-liquor separately.

N.B.—The preparation is improved if the mince-meat with which the cabbage is stuffed be combined with a quarter of its bulk of pilaff rice and the same quantity of foie-gras fat.

2103—SOU-FASSUM PROVENÇAL

Parboil and cool the cabbage as above; remove the outer large leaves, and set them on a net.

Upon this litter of cabbage leaves lay the following products, mixed:—

The inside leaves of the cabbage, chopped up and seasoned; one-half lb. of _ciseled_ and _blanched_ white of a leek; one and three-quarter lbs. of sausage-meat; six oz. of lean bacon, cut into dice and frizzled; one chopped onion, fried in butter; two chopped tomatoes; a crushed clove of garlic; three oz. of _blanched_ rice and four oz. of fresh, young peas.

Gather up the ends of the net, and close it in such a way as to reconstruct the cabbage.

Cook it in mutton broth or in ordinary stock for three and one-half or four hours.

Serve the sou-fassum plain, on a round dish.

2104—CABBAGES FOR GARNISH.—_A_

Parboil, cool, and thoroughly drain the cabbage. Remove as many large leaves as there are balls of stuffed cabbage required, and, if the leaves be too small, use two for each ball.

Chop up the remains of the cabbage; season them with salt and pepper; put a small portion of them on each of the leaves; close the latter in the shape of balls, and set them one by one in a sautépan.

Then proceed, for the cooking, as directed under “Braised Cabbage.”

2105—CABBAGES FOR GARNISH.—_B_

Prepare the cabbage as above; insert into the centre of each ball a portion of smooth pork forcemeat, the size of a pigeon’s egg, and braise in the same way.

2106—CABBAGES FOR GARNISH.—_C_

Parboil the necessary quantity of cabbage leaves, in accordance with the number of balls required. Cool them; spread them out; garnish the middle of each with one tablespoonful of pilaff rice, mixed with foie-gras purée, and close up the leaves to form small packets.

Braise as in the case of No. 2104.

2107—SCOTCH KALE (Chou frisé), SPRING CABBAGE (Choux de Printemps), BROCCOLI LEAVES, TURNIP-TOPS

These various kinds of greens are prepared in the English way, as described above, or they may be prepared with butter, like Brussels sprouts. The two above-mentioned modes of preparation are the only ones that suit them.

2108—CAULIFLOWER AND BROCCOLI (Chou-fleur et Broccoli)

Broccoli differs from cauliflower in the colour of its flower and the arrangement of the parts of the latter. In the broccoli the flower is of a deep violet. English broccoli never reach the size of those grown in the South of France.

Many do not even grow to a head, while their flowers—the size of hazel-nuts—are scattered among the interstices of the surrounding leaves.

Cauliflowers and large broccoli allow of the same treatment.

2109—CHOU-FLEUR A LA CRÈME

Cut the cauliflowers into bunches; remove the small leaves which are attached, and cook the cauliflower in salted water.

Thoroughly drain; set the bunches in a timbale, reconstructing the cauliflower in so doing, or on a dish covered with a folded napkin, and serve a cream sauce separately.

2110—CHOU-FLEUR AU GRATIN

Having well drained the cauliflower, dry it in butter for a few minutes; mould it in a bowl, and pour a few tablespoonfuls of Mornay sauce into it.

Coat the bottom of a dish with the same sauce, and turn out the cauliflower on the dish; completely cover with Mornay sauce; sprinkle with grated cheese mixed with raspings; bedew with melted butter, and set the _gratin_ to form.

2111—CHOU-FLEUR A LA MILANAISE

Set the cauliflower on a buttered dish sprinkled with grated cheese. Also sprinkle the cauliflower with cheese; add a few pieces of butter, and set the _gratin_ to form.

On taking the dish out of the oven, sprinkle the cauliflower with nut-brown butter, and serve immediately.

2112—CHOU-FLEUR A LA POLONAISE

Thoroughly drain the cauliflower, and set it on a buttered dish.

Sprinkle it with chopped, hard-boiled egg-yolks and chopped parsley, mixed. When about to serve, bedew with nut-brown butter, in which one-half oz. of fine bread-crumbs (per three oz. of butter) should have been fried.

2113—CAULIFLOWER WITH VARIOUS SAUCES

Cook the cauliflower in salted water. Drain it thoroughly, and set it in a timbale. Serve at the same time either a sauceboat of _Melted Butter_, _a Butter_, _a Hollandaise_, or _a Mousseline_ sauce, &c.

2114—PURÉE DE CHOU-FLEUR dite A LA DUBARRY

Cook the cauliflower in salted water; drain it well; rub it through tammy, and combine the resulting purée with one quarter of its bulk of somewhat firm, mashed potatoes with cream. Heat; add butter away from the fire, and dish in a timbale.

=Brussels Sprouts (Choux de Bruxelles)=

2115—CHOUX DE BRUXELLES A L’ANGLAISE

Cook them in salted water; drain them well, and dish them on a drainer or in a timbale.

2116—CHOUX DE BRUXELLES A LA CRÈME

Cook the sprouts; drain them well without cooling them; stew them in butter, and chop them up. Then combine them with as much fresh cream as possible.

2117—CHOUX DE BRUXELLES SAUTÉS

Cook them, and, after having thoroughly drained them, throw them into an omelet-pan containing some very hot butter. Toss them until they are nicely frizzled; dish them in a timbale, and sprinkle them with chopped parsley.

2118—CHOUX DE BRUXELLES AU BEURRE

Cook them, keeping them somewhat firm, and drain without cooling them.

Put them into a sautépan; season them with salt and pepper; add two oz. of butter (per lb. of sprouts) cut into small pieces; cover, and stew in the oven for one-quarter hour.

2119—PURÉE DE CHOUX DE BRUXELLES dite FLAMANDE

Three-parts cook the sprouts; drain them well without cooling them, and complete their cooking by stewing them in butter. Rub them through tammy, and add to the resulting purée one-third of its bulk of mashed potatoes.

Heat, add butter away from the fire, and dish in a timbale.

2120—SEA KALE (Chou Marin)

This is one of the best and most delicate of English vegetables.

It is trimmed with great care, washed, and then tied into bunches of from five to six plants, and these are plainly cooked in salted water.

All cardoon recipes, and sauces given for asparagus, may be applied to sea kale.

2121—CUCUMBER AND VEGETABLE MARROW (Concombres et Courgettes)

Though of different shapes, these two vegetables allow of almost the same treatment when they are cooked. They are especially used as garnishes.

2122—CONCOMBRES A LA CRÈME

Peel, and cut the cucumber to shapes resembling olives; parboil and drain these pieces. This done, three-parts cook them in butter; moisten with boiling cream, and finish the cooking in reducing the cream. At the very last moment add a little Béchamel sauce with the view of slightly thickening the preparation, and dish in a timbale.

2123—CONCOMBRES GLACÉS

After having shaped them like large garlic cloves, quickly parboil them. This done, treat them as directed under “Carottes glacées,” and roll them sufficiently in their cooking-liquor, reduced to the consistence of a thick syrup, to thoroughly coat them with it.

2124—CONCOMBRES FARCIS.—_A_

Cut the cucumbers into two-inch lengths; peel, parboil, and drain them. Then hollow them out to form small, round cases; set them side by side in a sautépan, and cook them in butter. When they are three-parts cooked, fill them with a raw, chicken forcemeat, effecting this operation by means of a piping-bag. The forcemeat should be slightly moulded in the cucumber cases.

Complete the cooking of the cucumber, gently, while poaching the forcemeat.

2125—CONCOMBRES FARCIS.—_B_

Peel the cucumbers; split them open lengthwise, and empty them by means of a root-spoon. This done, parboil and drain without cooling them.

Garnish each half-cucumber, level with the edges, with a chicken forcemeat, prepared with frangipan, and combined with a third of its weight of Duxelles. Reconstruct the cucumbers by placing the halves one against the other; wrap them each in a slice of bacon, and then in a piece of muslin, and finally string them. This done, braise them in the usual way. When they are cooked, remove their wrappings, and cut them into roundels the thickness of which is determined by the size of the piece of which they are the adjuncts.

2126—STACHYS (Crosnes du Japon)

Whatever be their mode of preparation, stachys must be cleaned, parboiled, and kept firm, and cooked in butter without colouration.

2127—CROSNES A LA CRÈME

After having parboiled the stachys and three-parts cooked them in butter, moisten with boiling cream, and complete their cooking while reducing the cream. Add a little thin, fresh cream at the last moment, and dish in a timbale.

2128—CROSNES SAUTÉS AU BEURRE

After having parboiled, drained, and dried the stachys, put them in an omelet-pan containing some very hot butter, and toss them over a fierce fire, until they are well frizzled. Dish in a timbale, and sprinkle moderately with chopped parsley.

2129—CROSNES AU VELOUTÉ

Completely cook the stachys in salted water. Drain them, and cohere them with the required quantity of Velouté flavoured with mushroom essence.

2130—CROQUETTES DE CROSNES

Having cooked the stachys in salted water, and kept them somewhat firm, thoroughly drain them and mix them with a very reduced Allemande sauce, in the proportion of one-fifth pint per lb. of stachys. Spread this preparation on a buttered dish, and cool. Now cut this preparation into portions weighing about two oz.; shape these portions like balls, pears, quoits, or otherwise, dip them in beaten eggs, and roll them in very fine bread-crumbs.

Plunge these croquettes into very hot fat five or six minutes before serving; drain them on a piece of linen; salt moderately, and dish on a napkin with very green, fried parsley.

2131—PURÉE DE CROSNES

Cook the stachys in salted water, keeping them somewhat firm, and add thereto four oz. of quartered potatoes per lb. of stachys.

As soon as they are cooked, drain the stachys and the potatoes; rub them through a sieve, and dry the purée over a very fierce fire. Add the necessary quantity of milk to bring the purée to its proper consistence; heat; add butter away from the fire, and dish in a timbale.

2132—SPINACH (Épinards)

Spinach should only be prepared at the last moment, if possible.

After having parboiled it in plenty of boiling salted water, cool it, press out all its contained water, and, according to circumstances, either chop it up or rub it through a sieve.

If it has to be served with the leaves left whole, merely drain it on a sieve, without either pressing or cooling it.

2133—ÉPINARDS A L’ANGLAISE

Cook it after having carefully shredded it; drain it well, and dish in a timbale without cooling.

2134—ÉPINARDS A LA CRÈME

Having chopped up or rubbed the spinach through a sieve, put it into a sautépan with two oz. of butter per lb., and dry it over a fierce fire.

Now add the quarter of its bulk of cream sauce to it, and simmer gently for ten minutes.

Dish in a timbale when about to serve, and sprinkle the surface with fresh cream.

2135—ÉPINARDS AU GRATIN

Dry the spinach as above in three oz. of butter per lb., and then, in the same proportion, add two and one-half oz. of grated cheese.

Set on a buttered _gratin_-dish; sprinkle copiously with grated cheese and melted butter, and set the _gratin_ to form in a fierce oven.

2136—ÉPINARDS A LA VIROFLAY

Spread some large leaves of _blanched_ spinach on a napkin, and in the middle of each lay a _subric_, the substance of which should have been combined with very small _croûtons_ of bread-crumb fried in butter. Wrap the _subrics_ in the spinach leaves; cover with Mornay sauce; sprinkle with grated cheese and melted butter, and set to glaze in a fierce oven.

2137—SUBRICS D’ÉPINARDS

Dry the spinach in butter as described above, and add to it per lb. of spinach (away from the fire) one-sixth pint of very reduced Béchamel sauce; two tablespoonfuls of thick cream; one egg and the yolks of three, well beaten; salt, pepper, and nutmeg.

Make a sufficient quantity of clarified butter very hot in an omelet-pan.

Take up some of the preparation of spinach by means of a spoon, and let the contents of the latter drop (propelled by the finger) into the butter. Proceed thus in the making of the _subrics_, and take care that they do not touch. When a minute has elapsed, turn them over with a spatula or a fork, that their other sides may colour.

Set on a dish or in a timbale, and serve a cream sauce separately.

2138—CRÊPES AUX ÉPINARDS

Parboil some well-shredded spinach; dry it in butter; season it, and add to it an equal quantity of Yorkshire-pudding paste (No. 1943).

Cook this preparation in a small, well-buttered omelet-pan or in deep tartlet-moulds.

N.B.—These spinach pancakes constitute an excellent garnish for Relevés of Beef, Veal, and Ham.

2139—SOUFFLÉ AUX ÉPINARDS

Make a composition after the directions given under No. 2092. Spread this composition in two or three layers, and set on each of the latter a litter of well-cleaned and soaked anchovy fillets, arranged to form a lattice. Finish with a layer of spinach shaped like a dome, and set thereon two crossed rows of anchovy fillets. Cook after the manner of an ordinary _soufflé_.

2140—SOUFFLÉ AUX ÉPINARDS AUX TRUFFES

Proceed as directed in the preceding recipe, but substitute anchovy fillets for some fine slices of truffle.

N.B.—Both these spinach _soufflés_ may be served either as vegetables, in which case they are moulded in large timbales, or as garnishes, when they are dished in small _cassolettes_ of appropriate size.

They are very delicate preparations, which may be varied by watercress _soufflé_—prepared in the same way.

2141—FEUILLES DE VIGNE FARCIES OU DOLMAS (Stuffed Vine Leaves)

Provided the vine-leaves be very tender, they may serve in the preparation of the following garnish:—Suppress their stalks; parboil the leaves; drain them well, and arrange three or four at a time in the form of a circular tray, in the centre of which lay a tablespoonful of pilaff rice to which some foie-gras purée has been added. This done, draw the ends of the leaves over the rice, so as to enclose it and to form regular balls of equal size.

Put these balls, well-pressed, one against the other in a sautépan, the bottom of which should be garnished with slices of bacon; cover with thin slices of bacon; moisten just enough to cover, with good consommé; boil, and then braise gently.

2142—TUBEROUS FENNEL (Fenouil Tubéreux)

This vegetable is not very well known in England, where it is sold only by the leading merchants of early-season vegetables. It is prepared like the cardoons and the marrows.

2143—BROAD BEANS (Fèves)

Broad beans should be shelled just before being cooked, and it is quite the rule to peel them. Boil them in salted water containing a bunch of savory, the size of which should be in proportion to the quantity of broad beans. When they are cooked and drained, add the leaves of savory (chopped) to them.

2144—FÈVES AU BEURRE

Having well-drained and peeled the broad beans, toss them over a fierce fire to dry them, and then finish them, away from the fire, with three oz. of butter per lb. of beans.

2145—FÈVES A LA CRÈME

After having dried and peeled the broad beans, cohere them (per lb.) with three tablespoonfuls of thick, fresh cream.

2146—PURÉE DE FÈVES

Proceed exactly as for purée of peas. This purée constitutes a very delicate garnish, which is particularly well suited to ham.

2147—GOMBOS

This vegetable—so common in America and the East—is only very rarely used in England, where, however, it is now beginning to be better known.

There are two kinds of Gombos: the long and the round kind. The latter is also called _Bamia_ or _Bamiès_. Both kinds are prepared after the same recipes.

2148—GOMBOS A LA CRÈME

After having trimmed them, parboil them in salted water and drain them. Then cook them in butter, and, just before serving them, cohere them with a cream sauce.

2149—GOMBOS POUR GARNITURES

Parboil the gombos until they are two-thirds cooked. Drain them well, and complete their cooking in the braising-liquor of the piece they are to accompany.

If they are to garnish a poulet _sauté_, complete their cooking in some thin veal gravy.

2150—HOP SPROUTS (Jets de Houblon)

The eatable part is separated from the fibrous by breaking off the ends of the sprouts, as in the case of asparagus or sprew. After having washed them in several waters, cook them in salted water containing, per every quart, the juice of one half-lemon.

Hop sprouts may be prepared with butter, cream, velouté, &c. When served as a vegetable, they are invariably accompanied by poached eggs, which are laid in a crown round them and alternated by comb-shaped _croûtons_ fried in butter.

=Haricot-Beans (Haricots Blancs)=

2151—HARICOTS BLANCS A L’AMÉRICAINE (Lima Beans)

Cook the beans as described under No. 274. But add to the prescribed ingredients one-half lb. of lean bacon per pint of dry beans.

When they are cooked and well drained, mix them with the bacon cut into dice, and cohere them with some good tomato sauce.

2152—HARICOTS BLANCS AU BEURRE

Having well drained the haricot-beans, season them with salt and pepper and cohere them with two oz. of butter per lb. of cooked beans. Dish in a timbale and sprinkle with chopped parsley.

2153—HARICOTS BLANCS A LA BRETONNE

Drain them well and cohere them with a Bretonne sauce, in the proportion of one-third pint of sauce per lb. of cooked haricot-beans. Dish in a timbale with chopped parsley.

2154—PURÉE DE HARICOTS BLANCS dite SOISSONNAISE

Rub the haricot-beans through a sieve while they are burning-hot. Add to the purée (per lb. thereof) three oz. of butter; dry it over a very fierce fire, and then add some milk to it, to bring it to its proper consistence.

2155—FLAGEOLETS (Haricots Flageolets)

These beans are used more especially fresh; but, when they are out of season, recourse is often had to preserved or dried flageolets.

They are prepared in the same way as haricot-beans. Their purée, which is very delicate, is known under the name of “Purée Musard,” and it is particularly suitable for the garnishing of mutton. It is also used as a thickening ingredient in the purée of French beans, and nothing can equal it for the purpose; for, not only is it an unctuous thickening medium, but its flavour is peculiarly adapted to the throwing into relief of that of the French beans.

2156—RED BEANS (Haricots Rouges)

Red beans are cooked in salted water with one-third lb. of lean bacon, one pint of red wine, one carrot, one onion stuck with a clove, and one faggot per quart of beans. The bacon should be withdrawn as soon as cooked. These beans are cohered by means of _manied_ butter, and they are then mixed with the bacon, which is cut into dice and frizzled in butter.

2157—FRENCH BEANS (Haricots Verts)

French beans are among the greatest vegetable delicacies; but they have to be prepared with the utmost care.