Chapter I: Persia--Administration of the (9)

Like the Turks, and indeed generally like other Asiatics, the Persians are very careful in preserving warmth in the feet. In winter they wear a thick woollen sock; and in the air or in a journey, they bind their feet and legs with a long bandage of cloth, which they increase with the advance of the cold. They have three different sorts of shoes, and two sorts of boots. 1. A green slipper, with a heel about an inch and a half high, with a painted piece of bone at the top. These are worn by the higher classes, and by all before the King. 2. A flat slipper, either of red or yellow leather, with a little iron shoe under the heel, and with a piece of bone over that shoe, on which, as in the first instance, the heel rests. 3. A stout shoe (with a flat sole, turning up at the toe) which covers the whole foot, and is made either of leather, or of thick-quilted cotton. It is worn by the peasants, and by the _chatters_, or walking footmen.

The boots are, 1. a very large pair with high heels, turned up at the toe, made generally of Russia leather, and covering the leg. 2. A smaller and tighter kind, buttoning at the side, and reaching only to the calf of the leg. When the Persians ride, they put on a loose trowser of cloth, called _shalwar_, into which they insert the skirts of the _alkalock_, as well as the silken trowsers; so that the whole looks like an inflated bladder. The _shalwar_ is very useful in carrying light baggage, as handkerchiefs, small books, &c. &c. not unfrequently a slight meal.

The Persians shave all the head except a tuft of hair just on the crown, and two locks behind the ears: but they suffer their beards to grow, and to a much larger size than the Turks, and to spread more about the ears and temples. They almost universally dye them black, by an operation not very pleasant, and necessary to be repeated generally once a fortnight. It is always performed in the hot-bath, where the hair being well saturated takes the colour better. A thick paste of _Khenna_ is first made, which is largely plastered over the beard, and which after remaining an hour is all completely washed off, and leaves the hair of a very strong orange colour, bordering upon that of brick-dust. After this, as thick a paste is made of the leaf of the indigo, (which previously has been pounded to a fine powder), and of this also a deep layer is put upon the beard; but this second process, to be taken well, requires two full hours. During all this operation, the patient lies quietly flat upon his back; whilst the dye (more particularly the indigo, which is a great astringent) contracts the features of his face in a very mournful manner, and causes all the lower part of the visage to smart and burn. When the indigo is at last washed off, the beard is of a very dark bottle green, and becomes a jet black only when it has met the air for twenty-four hours. Some, indeed, are content with the _Khenna_, or orange colour; others, more fastidious, prefer a beard quite blue. The people of _Bokhara_ are famous for their blue beards. It is inconceivable how careful the Persians are of this ornament: all the young men sigh for it, and grease their chins to hasten the growth of the hairs; because, until they have there a respectable covering, they are supposed not fit to enjoy any place of trust.

Another singular custom is that of dying the hands and feet: this is done by the abovementioned _Khenna_, which is generally put over every part of the hands and nails as far as the wrist, and on the soles of the feet, the toes, and nails.

* * * * *

From the comparative shortness of my stay in Persia, I cannot presume to delineate the national character. I shall therefore spare the reader any general observations which can be rendered of decisive authority only by the experience of years, and an intimate acquaintance with the literature and amusements, as well as with the administration of a country. The simple incidents of my journal, as they occur, may perhaps afford to every reader better materials for the illustration of the manners and society and government of Persia, than any systematic conclusions which I might have been able to extract from the same scenes and subjects.

_By_ James Morier.
With _Additional Particulars by_ Major Rennell.]

CHAP. XIV.

TEHERAN TO TABRIZ.

DEPARTURE FROM TEHERAN--PLAIN--TUMULI--CASVIN--SULTANIEH; TOMB OF SULTAN MAHOMED KHODABENDEH; CITADEL: NEW TOWN OF SULTANABAD--MARMOTS--KING’S PLEASURE-HOUSE--ZENGAN--ELAUTS--INSCRIPTION AT ARMAGHANÉH--RIVER KIZZIL OZAN--MIAUNÉH--DISPUTE--ESTABLISHMENT OF COURIERS--CARAVANSERAI--WOMEN IN PERSIA.

The 7th of May 1809, which (as being the festival of _Omar-Coushen_, or the killing of OMAR) was considered a very lucky day, was at length fixed for our departure. MIRZA ABUL HASSAN (the Persian Envoy Extraordinary) and I sent on our baggage in the morning to _Imaum Reza_, about three miles from the city, and followed ourselves at five o’clock in the evening. I was accompanied by my best of friends, Sir HARFORD JONES and the rest of his suite, and we had our parting dinner in a tent which he had pitched there for the purpose.

The spot at which we stopped was the tomb of a son of _Imaum Reza_, frequented as a place of devotion. It is a square building, covered with a cupola, and enclosed in a square by a wall; beyond which, in a row on each side, are some young trees and shrubs and flowers. The country all around was in a high state of verdure. I went to the top of the gate of the tomb, from which I took the following bearings: _Teheran_ N. 70 E.; _Demawend_ N. 50 E.; extremity of the _Albores_ (at the foot of which leads the road to _Casvin_) N. 70 W.; _Rey_ S. 45 E.

8th. After having conversed with Sir HARFORD on matters of business, I slept till three in the morning, and then set off. Sir HARFORD accompanied us for some time, but quitted us at half an hour after sun-rise.

The plain of _Teheran_ is covered with villages: I could count twenty to the right and to the left. The road followed, as far as _Karatch_, the bearing of N. 70 W. which I had taken on the preceding day. At about ten miles from the _Imaum Reza_, we came to a dike cut from the river at _Karatch_, from which our water-carriers were used to bring drinking-water for our party at _Teheran_. At about six miles from _Imaum Reza_ is a village called _Geldisi_, distant three miles on the left: another at the foot of the _Albores_ called _Kend_; further on the left is _Ali-shah-abad_, a larger place, with many trees around; then _Sherar_; then high on the hills to the right a pretty village called _Boragoun_. As we approached we saw the bed of the river called _Aub Karatch_, running about S. W. which I am told takes its source in the _Albores_, and runs towards _Kinar-à-Gird_. The bed is large, but it was then only partially filled. We crossed at the winding of the road over a brick bridge of two arches of different sizes: near it are some ruins of other brick buildings, apparently of the same age. In this spot is an inlet of the mountains, which seems to form a pretty plain, and in which I remarked some hamlets.

The tomb of the son of IMAUM HASSAN renders _Karatch_ a pleasing object at a distance. The dome is shaded by the rich foliage of two fine _ehenar_ trees, and a stream cut from the river runs near the walls. The Persian Envoy informed me that this village, and those on the plain, belong to his brother-in-law the _Ameen-ed-Doulah_, and were formerly the property of his uncle the late Prime Minister. The _Mirza_ himself took up his lodgings in the tomb; my _Mehmandar_ put us in the house of a peasant, which was clean though small; the people here burn cakes of cow-dung for their common fuel. In a little enclosure behind the house was a vine. The sun-set N. 70 W.

9th. We departed from _Karatch_ at one o’clock in the morning, and, as well as I could ascertain our bearing by the stars, continued our route in the direction of the preceding day. Two _fursungs_ from _Karatch_, in a plain of immense extent, is _Kemelabad_. We were told that the road to our stage through the plain was swampy; we therefore chose another to the right, which (after a ride of four hours and a half, and a distance perhaps of sixteen miles) brought us, about sun-rise, to a delightful village called _Koran_.

On the breaking of the morning we had discovered an immense plain, so thickly strewed with villages, that no one could repeat to me all their names. The whole, in number about one hundred, compose the _bolouk_ or district of _Souj-bolouk_, and are mostly under the _Ameen-ed-Doulah_.

At _Koran_ we saw the _Hakim_ or Governor, as he was setting out on an expedition to collect the tribute from the peasantry. The village and the surrounding territory are delightfully watered by a river, which, issuing from between an Eastern and a Western chain of mountains, flows through a very steep channel, (in a N. and S. direction, after meandering some time from E. to W.) A great number of dikes, are cut from it, and extend the fertility beyond the course of the river, through the whole plain; which, particularly near the villages, is admirably cultivated.

From _Koran_ we returned to the line, and met the road at a point where stood a _caravanserai_ and a tomb, both in ruins, and a clump of trees. We were four hours in reaching _Gauzir-seng_, our _Menzil_, a total distance from _Karatch_ of twenty-eight miles.

In the plain through which we passed, we saw at a distance about five tumuli. They are such as are seen on the plains of _Troy_, and here also are called _Tapé_. We may account for them by the battles between the Persians and Turks, who buried their dead under similar mounds. There are numbers all over the plain: the people of the country say, that _borges_ or towers were built on these mounds; and our host at _Gauzir-seng_ told us that a large tapé called _Murad-tapé_, or the Hill of Charity near the village, received its name from a man who had made it his residence. His story (if it be worth telling) continued however, that a stranger, who had asked charity in vain even on this hill, found at the door the master’s horse, and rode off with it, exclaiming, “this is your charity.”

At _Gauzir-seng_, we were lodged in one of the towers that flank the walls of the village. It was open on all sides by windows; we could thus enjoy the Westerly breeze, which allayed the great heat of the day. We were very well treated by the _Ket Khoda_ of the village, who seemed to me a well-bred and well-meaning man. We had good _moss_, (curdled milk, the same as the _yaourt_, in Turkey) and a sort of drink made of _moss_ and water, of which the common people all drink very plentifully at this season.

10th. We left _Gauzir-seng_ at midnight, and came to _Kish-lauk_, bearing West of our last station, on a distance of about fifteen miles.

The Prince of _Aderbigian_ has a pleasure-house here, which is extolled by Persians as a wonder and a paradise. I could discover the extent of the grounds, and the house, which is built on one of the artificial _tapés_ or mounds.

A most beautiful morning opened the day to us; the twilight commenced at four o’clock, and the sun rose at five. The mountains, still bearing East and West, declined in their height to the Westward, terminating towards the plain by small hills. After passing _Kish-lauk_ we came on a common, on which large herds of cattle were feeding. To the left of the road were many villages spread all over a plain, the extent of which was concealed by a haze: the whole district is divided into many _bolouks_, and is under the jurisdiction of _Casvin_. The principal villages on the left are _Hossein-abad_, _Hassan-abad_, _Shahinerlou_, _Shahin-tape_. Some on the right, are _Angouri mahalé_, and compose part of a _bolouk_ called _Kou-payéh_, belonging to MIRZA REZA KOULI, who was Embassador to France, and signed the treaty of _Finkenstein_.

At about seven miles from _Casvin_, we turned from the road at a small mud-walled village, to eat something ourselves, and to give our horses some grass. On entering a room, the master talked Turkish to me, and said that he had seen me before at _Constantinople_. In fact I recognised him as one of those whom I had seen at _Constantinople_, with the Persian Embassy to France. He talked to me with much pleasure of _Frangistoon_ or Europe: and this man, who boasts of having sat in the same room, and of having been taken by the hand by BUONAPARTE himself, now lives in misery and solitude in an unknown village. It is not uninteresting to know the extreme attention which BUONAPARTE paid to his Persian guests. He lodged the Embassador and his suite in an house adjacent to his own at _Finkenstein_, and every day used to walk in amongst them, take them by the hand, and use every little art to conciliate their affections.

We reached _Casvin_ at half past twelve. The day was hot and suffocating, and there was an appearance of storm in the Westward. For about two miles before we entered the gates, we passed by fields and gardens, mostly producing vines, which, as I am told, yield the best grape in Persia. This place labours under great inconvenience from the want of water; indeed, through the whole extent of the immense plain, that we traversed during the day, there was not one natural stream; but many _kanauts_ were making, and wherever there is irrigation, there is fertility, and the cultivation is rich. Upon the whole therefore, our route from _Teheran_ displayed a country of much more promising appearance, than (if we had trusted only to the experience of our own journey from _Bushire_ to the capital) we might have expected in Persia. The brother of the Minister of SHEIK ALI KHAN, one of the King’s sons, and Governor of the city, came out to meet us as an _istakball_, and accompanied us to an house, which had been once a good one, but was then abandoned and in ruins. Our _Mehmandar_ had great difficulty to procure the refreshment that was due to us; but when at length it arrived, there was a supply of cooks, pots, and provisions, which would have satisfied an army. _Casvin_ is almost one mass of ruins. A _Zibzileh_ (an earthquake), within no distant period, threw down the buildings which were in the _Tottie_, and made cracks in almost every wall. A large mosque, built by the _Abbasses_, has been rent in many places in its thick walls, and totally ruined.

11th. The storm of thunder and rain which we had foreboded, fell in the evening of the preceding day, and refreshed the air which had been sultry, and gave us a most delightful morning.

We left _Casvin_ just as the morning broke at about four o’clock; and proceeded in a direction of S. 40 W. to _Siah Dehan_, a village in the plain of _Casvin_, a distance of twenty miles, called six _fursungs_, which we performed in five hours. The road over this part of the plain was the most beautiful and the most level of any that I had seen in Persia. It was fine hard gravel; and the plain on each side of it was in high verdure, one grass plat on which many thousands of cavalry might manœuvre admirably.

The villages continued as numerous as those that we had before remarked in our last day’s route. They were neatly entrenched in square walls with towers at each angle. The wind which blew from the Northward refreshed the air, and made it even cold: this, which is here the prevailing wind, is called the _Baad Gagazgoon_, as it blows from a little district of that name, composed of ten or fifteen small villages, situated on the N. hills. At four miles from _Siah Dehan_ we stopped at a village on the side of the road called _Keck_. The inhabitants looked at us over the walls, and did not seem willing to come out to us; at last a little boy ventured forth: I questioned him about his own village and those around, but he seemed shy in giving answers; and when he saw me take out my pocket-book to write down the memoranda, he asked me with a very suspicious face, “What are you writing there?” and then ran off as fast as he could. In a little time after we heard his companions cry out, “they are _Roos_,” (or Russians), a report which, of course, he had spread abroad in his village, to the fear of all the inhabitants.

The name of the villages, according to his intelligence, were, _Kenish_, distant two _fursungs_, N. 10 W.; _Akchegan_, one _fursung_ and a half, N. 60 W.; _Ash-hasar_, N. 40 W.; and _Alangaya_, two _fursungs_, N. 30 W. All this plain is under the jurisdiction of _Casvin_; I should think it about thirty miles in breadth, but a haze over the country might deceive me. The mountains to the right are here diminished to hills; and, joining the Southern mountains on a bearing of S. 40 W. terminate the plain of _Casvin_. On the plain we saw the _houpe_, partridges, and two deer, with many flocks of sheep. _Siah Dehan_ has about five hundred houses. The inhabitants complain of a great scarcity of water; and, though their village is surrounded by gardens, they expect altogether but miserable crops. They told us, with much warmth, of the injustice with which another village had appropriated the water of _Siah Dehan_ to their own use, by turning the course of the _Kanauts_. We were lodged in the best house that the place could afford, and had a barber to wait on us. This custom of making the barber the _Homme d’Affaires_ is common to the villages around.

12th. We went from _Siah Dehan_ to _Nouri_, a place situated at the end of the plain of _Casvin_, and the first in the _Bolouk_ of _Hamzé_. The distance is called six _fursungs_, but from the time (seven hours) that we were on our horses, I should reckon it at twenty-five miles. As we set off at midnight I did not distinguish much on either side, till the break of day, when I discovered several very pretty villages, on the hills and near the side of the road to the left. The plain had here narrowed to a breadth of about three miles: the hills to the right were quite diminutive, and those to the left were decreasing in their height. The bearing of _Nouri_ from _Siah Dehan_ may be about W.; this is a guess, for at night I could only judge by the position of the stars, and in the day my compass would not traverse. We stopped at a village called _Courvé_, to feed our horses on the new barley which was in some places breast-high. A peasant told us that two neighbouring villages to the Eastward were called _Ziabet_ and _Parsin_; they are situated on the banks of a small stream, which meanders through the plain from W. to E. There are many other villages, the names of which I did not learn, all surrounded by cultivation, and forming green and picturesque objects. The whole country, indeed, was one carpet of verdure; and on the breaking of the morning the freshness of the odour was beyond any thing grateful. We had several severe showers; the storm gathering over the Western hills, and falling down in great torrents. This rain, so providential for the poor _Rayats_, seemed to spread universal joy amongst them.

13th. We proceeded this morning just as the sun rose, and were four hours on the road, to _Sihin Caléh_, on a bearing of N. 45 W. and a distance called four _fursungs_, and by my calculation about fourteen miles. At about three miles on the left of the road, amid very picturesque scenery, is the small village of _Sherafabad_. From this at the distance of a mile, (in a situation equally picturesque, and surrounded for a considerable distance by trees and cultivation) is the large place of _Abhar_. About three miles further on, still on the same side of the road, lies _Khorremderré_, in the bosom of trees and gardens.

We stopped on its skirts to feed our cattle, and to breakfast. We seated ourselves under the shade of some cherry trees, and by the side of one of the running streams of fine pure water, which abound in the neighbourhood. We met a caravan on a pilgrimage to the tomb of IMAUM REZA, at _Mesched_; the _Chaoush_ or conductor of which, (a man on horseback carrying a green triangular flag) complained to us that the people at _Khorremderré_ had stolen his cloak. We sent a man with him into the town, and after some difficulty, procured the recovery of the garb to its right owner.

_Drawn by James Morier Esq^r._
_Published by Mess^{rs}. Longman, Hurst, Rees, Orme & Brown.
Paternoster Row. May 1, 1811._]

The next village was _Heeah_, still on the left; and then _Sihin Caléh_, to which (at the distance of about a mile) we turned off from the road on a bearing of W. All these villages are in the _Mahalé_ of _Hamzé_. Grass is extremely plentiful all over this country; and, from all that I can see, the passage of a large body of men would not be impeded by the want of provisions. On these plains the King’s horses graze annually: and here every summer his troops are collected. Magazines for their supplies are formed at _Sultaniéh_. A strong wind from the Westward blew from two hours before sun-rise to two hours before sun-set, and brought clouds with it; in the morning it was unpleasantly cold. On the rising ground to the Southward of _Sihin Caléh_, are some ancient tomb-stones, some of which are carved in a curious manner; among other things, there was a lion in stone--a certain sign of antiquity. The Arabic character also appeared to me very old.

14th. From _Sihin Caléh_ we went to _Sultaniéh_, a distance called five _fursungs_; we were five hours on the road, and, as we walked a good pace, I should place the whole at sixteen miles. Of these twelve are on a bearing of N. 40 W. to a pass (called _Teng Ali Acbar_) through a small rising of the plain; and the remainder to _Sultaniéh_, N. 80 W. On the height of the pass are the ruins of buildings, which are said to be those of the gate. From this pass _Sultaniéh_ is immediately seen; it lies near the Southern hills, and spreads itself N. and S. over the plain to a considerable extent, containing the present village among the ruins of the ancient city. I went to a _tapé_ on the South, before we entered the place, and took a general view of the whole.

The principal object among the remains of the ancient town is an immense structure, which is called the tomb of _Sultan Mohamed Khodabendeh_, and is said to be six hundred years old. A cupola rests on an octagonal base, on each angle of which arose a minaret; one only of which is now entire. At each angle also was a staircase, and in each of the sides was a door; and, as there is one wing which projects from the base, the whole probably, in its original plan, was similarly surrounded by additional buildings. The principal gate fronted the East: it is now in part remaining, but in a short time will be entirely demolished; as during our visit there were many workmen employed in pulling it down, to use the materials in some of the King’s pleasure-houses. The whole structure is of a fine brick admirably put together. The cupola and minarets were covered with a green-lacquered tile, most of which is now pealed off. The great architrave was of Moresque work of a dark-blue-lacquered tile. The arches of the gates were all enriched with curious ornaments in plaster. The interior is still admirable, though it is now converted into a magazine of straw. Nothing however intersects the beautiful symmetry of the dome. The interior diameter is thirty-five paces, and on a rough calculation, the height of the dome must be about one hundred feet. In the centre of the floor among the straw is a pillar of white marble, probably belonging to the tomb of the King, which is said indeed to be immediately in that position below the surface. The people told me that there were many fine marbles under the straw; and I saw (without being able to find any descent to them) several arches under ground, which perhaps, support the whole floor. Over each gate is a gallery, which extends along the base of the dome, and leads into smaller galleries within, and into others also on the exterior of the building. These are beautifully adorned with the neatest work that I had ever seen; all the cornices of the doors, the segments of the arches and the various niches are covered with Arabic sentences; which in some places are surmounted in a smaller character by _Cufic_ inscriptions, all either painted in fresco, or raised in plaster. The whole structure looks more like a mosque than a tomb, compared at least with those at _Constantinople_; but of any description, and in any place, I do not recollect a building which could have surpassed this in its original state. I ascended to the top of one of the shattered minarets, and took the following bearings; road to _Hamadan_ S. 50 W.; _Teng Ali Acbar_, S. 70. E.

This monument appears to stand in the _Ark_ or citadel of the ancient _Sultaniéh_. Its area is a square (a side of which, on a rough calculation, might be three hundred yards) and is marked out by a ditch still full of water. Part also of the ancient wall is yet standing, and bears N. 40 E. from the tomb; it is about fifty feet high: the exterior surface is fine, and the stones, which however are soft and crumbling, are well fitted together. At the angle of the ditch, there is the segment of a round tower still remaining; on one of the stones of which is an Arabic inscription, stating that it was built by SULTAN MAHOMED KHODABENDEH; and there is likewise a small rude sculpture of a combat between two horsemen. At the summit of the wall also, there appears to be some representation of lions or sphinxes’ heads. MIRZA ABUL HASSAN told me that he remembered, when twenty years ago the greater part of this wall was standing. The Persians, to illustrate the original splendour of the city, say, that when the army of JENGHIZ KHAN took and plundered _Sultaniéh_, they found in it six hundred thousand golden cradles.

Here are the remains of several mosques without the enclosure of the ditch, one of which seems to have been a fine edifice; they are all built of the same materials as the tomb. Few monuments in Persia can hope to survive many ages; for the Kings, who succeed the founders, are anxious only to be founders themselves, and instead of taking a pride to preserve the works of their predecessors, as records of the genius or greatness of their monarchy, they take pains only to destroy them, that they may build new structures with the materials, and attach their own names also to great buildings; never considering how short-lived, by their own example, will be their reputation after their decease. The principle extends to private life, and to a certain degree accounts for the numbers of ruined houses which swell the circumference of Persian cities. Every son is unwilling to repair and inhabit the house of his father, and is eager to impose his own name on some new work. The present King has undertaken to found at _Sultaniéh_ a new city, which is to be called _Sultanabad_. The inhabitants are to be supplied from the neighbouring villages, and from the population of _Aderbigian_. The _Ark_ or citadel is already built: it is situated close to the King’s pleasure-houses, N. 50 W. from the tomb. The King and all his troops encamp about June in the plains for many miles around.

There are an immense number of a peculiar species of rats in the plain, which dig themselves holes in the ground. Our people caught several: they have the squeaking of a musk rat, and sit on their hind legs; I caught one and took a drawing of it; it was big with young, and had four teats on each side; in colour it was an ugly dun, and in length measured fifteen inches from the head to the tail: it had five claws on both fore and hind feet, and long nails at the end. Its head was flat with a black nose, large black eyes, and an orifice for the ear without any skin to cover it; its tail was bushy, and spreading at the end.[39]

15th. On quitting _Sultaniéh_ we stopped at the King’s pleasure-house, which is built on the _tapé_ or hillock, about three quarters of a mile from the present village. It consists of four divisions, all enclosed within walls, and raised with materials from the demolished structures of the ancient city. The first contained a suit of apartments for women; the second was a polyangular building, as yet unfurnished (crowned at the top by a small dome) surrounded by a railing, and called like so many others, _Koola-frangee_. This, as we are told, was built after a drawing given to the King by one of the Gentlemen of the French Embassy. From this we went through a long arched and gloomy passage to the King’s _Khalwet_ or private room. Here there is a picture of his Majesty killing a stag in the chase, and a portrait of each of his principal sons, painted in fresco on the walls. From this we went to the fourth, which is the _Dewan Khonéh_, and opens upon the whole of the plain. Here the King sits in state; and, on a terraced platform below stand his sons and nobles: the whole is on a small and trifling scale, and displays no great ingenuity in the builder or wealth in the possessor.

We proceeded to _Zengan_: the distance is called six _fursungs_, and we performed it in six hours; but from the quick pace at which our horses walked, I may reckon it at twenty-four miles. Till the last four miles our route bore N. 30 W.; we then turned to N. 80 W.

The mountains on the left diminished very much, and were green to their summits. They terminated at a bearing of W. and behind them commenced another chain, which, when the immense clouds on their summits occasionally rolled off, appeared very high.

The plain ground over which we had travelled from _Casvin_, now became hilly and broken; and in some places the soil, which before had been universally hard, was soft; and the road, from the rain which had fallen, was rendered swampy and muddy. In the course of the day indeed we had much rain, though only in showers; and in the morning there was a rainbow. All this part of the country is well watered by a variety of small streams, but by no one of any note. We saw the plough at work in many parts of the country on a fine rich soil. The plough here is a rude instrument indeed; it is a large piece of wood making an angle with another, which being sharpened at the end, and frequently tipt with iron, forms the plough-share. It is drawn by two oxen or sometimes by one, and sometimes only by an ass. About six miles before we reached _Zengan_, on the left of the road there is a well-built village with walls and towers all around, and a small _Ark_ in the centre, called _Dehsis_. The vegetation all over the country is extremely rich, and certainly the most luxuriant which we had seen.

_Zengan_ is a large town, and is the capital of the _Mahalé_ of _Hamzé_, which contains one hundred villages. The whole district, by the gift of the King, is the property and government of FERRAJOULA KHAN, the _Nasakchee Bashee_. The _Mahalé_ pays no revenue, but it furnishes the King five thousand horsemen complete, who are paid, fed, and clothed from its own produce. On entering the town there is an immense enclosed garden full of every species of trees.

16th. From _Zengan_ we went to _Armaghanéh_, and were six hours on the road; on a general bearing of N. I call this also twenty-four miles, as we walked a good pace. On the left, in a valley, I saw several villages; the two principal of which are _Koushek_ and _Barri_. Others are also situated on the declivity of the hills; the road all the way is full of ascents and descents; and at about five miles from _Zengan_ we came to a valley, perhaps a bend and a continuation of that which we had already noticed. At the bottom flowed from E. to W. a stream of beautiful water, which came from the mountains to the N. E. of our route, and which was formed indeed principally by the melting of their snows and the rains. In its vicinity was much cultivated ground; and the peasants had raised its waters in many places to carry the fertility still further into the fields. At the interval of about six miles there is a similar valley and a similar stream, the waters of which equally assist the cultivation of the country, and redeem it from the waste of the intermediate tract. We saw many tents of _Elauts_ of the tribe _Choisevend_, whose cattle were grazing in the line between the two streams. They were represented to me as very warlike and brave, on which account the King enrolled many of them in his _Goolams_ and troops; and I was told, that they had been the principal heroes in the war with the Russians. Their tribe consists of six thousand families. Their chief is at _Teheran_, and is a _Khan_ of much consequence. They live always in tents, changing their situation with the seasons, and are very rich in camels. After having crossed the second stream we rested, and fed our horses on the new barley, which was there about a knee high. As we proceeded we met a caravan of pilgrims, from _Derbend_ on the _Caspian_, going to the _Zeeauret_ of _Mesched_. Not one could speak a word of Persian; indeed Turkish, from this point and henceforward, is the vernacular language spoken by the people of the villages; and it is rather rare to find any one of the inhabitants who can talk Persian fluently. These pilgrims wore a white band about their sheep-skin caps as a mark of their holy destination; and preceded by a _Chaoush_ bearing a green flag, joined all in loud cries as he excited them.

About four miles before we reached our stage we came to a third stream, which run with great velocity through different artificial channels, and the borders of which were richly cultivated with rice and barley. On the right, just before _Armaghanéh_, is a little village called _Houlouléh_.

The whole region from _Zengan_ is intersected at almost regular distances by vallies; in one of which lies _Armaghanéh_, so concealed by its situation, that it is scarcely seen till it is entered. To the Westward appears a long range of mountains; but the hills which we had passed in the day’s march, though sometimes of rock and flint, were generally green to their very summits; and the soil was mostly rich earth, which, in some places, was spread with the hues of a thousand flowers. Throughout the whole tract, indeed, every thing was in life and spring. The animals felt the influence of the season; and our horses in passing the herds around were scarcely manageable. One threw his rider; and after having given him a bite on the shoulder, attacked his fellows, and fought with some fury. The singing of the larks in the morning, and the whole tribes that swept along the air, gave a zest to the freshness of the dawn that was beyond description. The whole creation seemed to give praise to its great Creator.

_Armaghanéh_ also is included in the _Bolouk_ of _Hamzé_. In the town there is a square fort. In the room, into which we were introduced, there were several European inscriptions, mostly in Russian, but one in Latin, written I suspect by a Frenchman’s pencil, and worthy therefore to be transcribed, as displaying the spirit and temper with which they left the country:

“VENIMUS, VIDIMUS, ET MALEDIXIMUS PERSIDI;
“REGIQUE, AULÆQ; MAGNATIBUSQ; POPULOQ;--
“SCRIBEBANT IDIBUS APRILIS, 1809 * * *.”