Chapter I: Persia--Administration of the (6)

All the cannon, which in CHARDIN’S day were enclosed in a balustrade before the palace, are removed, and there is not left a vestige even of the balustrade itself. The _Maidan Shah_, the great public place, no longer presents the busy scene which it must have displayed in the better times of this kingdom. Of all the trees which surrounded it, there is not one standing. The canals, of which the stones remain, are void of water; the houses, which surrounded the _Maidan_, are no longer inhabited; and the very doors are all blocked up, so that there is now only a dead row of arches to be seen all round. The great market, which once spread the whole area with tents, is now confined to one corner near the _Nokara Khanéh_. All the rest is quite empty; scarcely a person is seen to pass along. I saw no traces of the pavilion of the clock, which in the time of CHARDIN so much amused the people by the mechanism of its puppets. The _Mesjid Shah_ or Royal Mosque is still a noble building, if I might judge from its outside; although the lacquered tiles on the dome are in many places falling off. We did not go further than the iron chain, which is thrown across the entrance of its great gate leading into the _Maidan_. The _Mesjid_ of _Louft Ollah_ is exteriorly in good repair. The great _bazar_ is entered under the _Nokara Khanéh_ by a handsome gate, the paintings on which still exist, but the large clock (of which however the place is still seen) is no longer in existence; nor is there any trace of that also, that was once on the very summit. The other side of the gate opens into the fine _bazars_ (formerly called the _Kaiseree_) now the _Bazar Shah_.

There are no modern _bazars_, except one built by HAJEE MAHOMED HOSSEIN KHAN, the second Minister. He has also made a new _Chahar Bagh_, in that part of the city towards the bridge, called _Pool Hajoo_. The _bazars_, as I had occasion to observe at _Shiraz_, are all laid out on nearly the same plan as those of _Constantinople_; generally the different trades in separate _bazars_. They are on the whole more lively than those of Turkey; being painted and adorned in many places, (particularly under the domes in the centre), with portraits of the heroes of the country, or with combats, or with figures of beasts, and other subjects. In these _bazars_ the confluence of people is certainly great, and if the crowds here were a fair measurement of the general population of the city, the whole numbers of _Ispahan_ would swell rapidly; but as every one in the course of the day has some business in this spot, the rest of the city is comparatively deserted; and as the traders also themselves have here their shops only and return to their homes at night, the mixed multitudes which throng the _bazars_, again scattered over all the quarters of the town, become a very inadequate proportion for its extent. The women, indeed, except the very lower class, generally remain at home, and during the day form, with their children, all the population of some parts of the city. The N. and E. divisions are the best inhabited. In CHARDIN’S time the numbers were estimated by those who reckoned largely one million and one hundred thousand souls; but even by the more moderate were fixed at six hundred thousand. Considering, however, the state of ruin in which, perhaps, half of _Ispahan_ is at present, we cannot place its actual population at more than four hundred thousand souls, a calculation which is supported by the accounts of the houses or families, of which there are eighty thousand. This information was subsequently communicated to me by HAJEE MAHOMED HOSSEIN KHAN, second Minister to the King, a native also of the city, and long its Governor, whose opportunities therefore of ascertaining the fact were unquestionable. Much, nevertheless, must be allowed for the exaggeration natural to a Persian.

The _kabob_ shops (or eating-houses on the plan of those in Turkey) seemed to be also equally clean and well arranged. From one of these a complete dinner, with every necessary convenience of dishes, sherbets, &c. may be procured at a short notice, and at a moderate expence. The most frequent shops appeared to be those of sweetmeats, which (in a consumption almost incredible) form the chief ingredients of Persian food, and are here arranged for sale very neatly in large China vases, clean glass vessels, and bright brass platters. The people excel in the composition; and import their sugar from India, and their sugar-candy from China. Large quantities of sugar come from _Cairo_ also, through _Suez_.

The _Beglerbeg_, or Governor, gave the Envoy and his suite an entertainment which, in one particular only, was more splendid than those at _Shiraz_. The great court and all the avenues were here illuminated by a vast number of small lamps, which threw an immense blaze of light all over the place. A China drum which the _Beglerbeg_ had been keeping for many years till a fit opportunity for the display should occur, was now brought forwards. It was suspended on high in the middle of the court. The fire was applied to it, but it emitted thick vapour with little explosions at intervals; and though a _meschal_ or great torch was at length tried, it only increased the smoke and stench, and proved too clearly, that the whole was a Chinese fraud, not unfrequently practised on the purchasers of their drums; a little gunpowder was placed at the ends indeed, but the centre was stuffed with old rags. The other fire-works also were generally miserable, in comparison with those at _Shiraz_. The dinner, (instead of being served in the usual manner on the ground) was placed on tables framed for the occasion, and was piled up in enormous heaps. The _Beglerbeg_ had the further attention to provide us with plates, spoons, knives, and forks, which were all in like manner made for the day’s entertainment. The spoons were of silver, and that for the Envoy was of gold.

The report, which we had received on the road, that it was the intention of the government to detain the Envoy at _Ispahan_, did not prove without foundation. The _Beglerbeg_ said, “that the Embassador was to stay at _Ispahan_ to see the country at his leisure, and visit all the fine buildings of the city.” However, at a private conference which Sir HARFORD had with him at the _Goush Khonéh_, all this was changed, so that the _Beglerbeg_ was then more anxious even than ourselves, that we should proceed to the capital with every possible expedition. He now urged on the Envoy, promising all his assistance to enable him to reach _Teheran_, before the commencement of the mourning of the _Moharrem_; engaging his own mules to convey us from _Ispahan_, and ordering two relays of one hundred and fifty each at _Kashan_ and at _Kom_. This anxiety was again seconded by a courier, who had arrived in two days from _Teheran_, and had brought the answers to the letters which we had dispatched from _Khonéh Korréh_.

CHAP. X.

ISPAHAN TO TEHERAN.

DEPARTURE FROM ISPAHAN--MOURCHEKOURD--SCENE OF THE VICTORY OF NADIR SHAH--RUINS--THE BUND KOHROOD--KASHAN--SALT DESERT--KOOM; TOMB--POOL DALLAUK; ADVENTURE IN THE NIGHT--VIEW OF TEHERAN--APPROACH--ENTRANCE INTO THE CITY.

On the 7th of February, accordingly we left _Ispahan_; our first day’s march, from _Goush Khonéh_ to _Gez_, was a distance of ten miles only. On the right of the road is a village called _Sayin_, which, as we were told, produces the best melons in the country. The soil, over which we travelled, was soft and crumbling, and strongly impregnated with salt, and in parts rendered muddy and swampy by the streams which intersect it. The weather was lowering on all sides, with a breeze from the Westward; which here and there in little whirlwinds carried the sand high up into the air in columns, resembling water-spouts at sea. The whole plain is covered with ruins, from which only now and then a few miserable peasants crept out to gape at our passing troops. The dikes, cut from the banks of the _Zaiande-rood_, irrigate the whole of the plain, and produce a greater appearance of cultivation than hitherto we had generally seen. The _caravanserai_ at _Gez_, though falling into decay, is still handsome, and is built of the same materials, and on nearly the same grand scale, as that which we had occupied at _Mayar_. This likewise is the work of the _Seffis_. Similar _caravanserais_ were constructed at every stage on the road to _Bagdad_; nothing, indeed, can equal the truly royal establishments which SHAH ABBAS the Great maintained throughout his dominions for the accommodation of strangers.

8th February. The bearing from _Gez_ to _Mourchekourd_ is N. W. and the distance by our computation is eighteen miles, which we travelled in six hours. At about seven miles, we came to a ruined _caravanserai_, built of the same materials and in the same neat manner as that at _Gez_. Nearly facing it is a well, to which we descended by a path, excavated from the surface on an angle of forty-five degrees, and about fifty yards in length. We saw small fish swimming about in this well, which appeared to us to be a spring of fine and limpid water. After having travelled about six miles further, we came to a very handsome _caravanserai_. We had discovered it immediately on ascending the summit of a range of hills, over which the road carried us. It is situated on the right of the road, and, with its bath and reservoirs on the left, was built by the mother of SHAH ABBAS. The structure has suffered less, than any other which we have seen, by the injuries of time and man. It is built of brick on a foundation of the same fine blue stone, which we had so much admired at _Mayar_. The front is ornamented with an open brick-work, and with neat Mosaic. The portico is crowned by a superb dome, and leads into the square court; the sides of which contain the rooms for travellers. Behind are vaulted stables with much accommodation. The _hummum_ is useless through decay; but the reservoir is still in good repair.

From this we proceeded five miles to _Mourchekourd_, and passed over a part of the plain, on which NADIR SHAH gained his decisive victory over ASHREFF, the _Affghan_ Chief. The mountains to the Northward were covered with snow, and still presented a winter to us, although the weather on the plain was delightfully serene and mild. The soil is hard, in some places argillaceous. The whole country, which we had passed in the day’s march, was poor and depopulated, though the ruins in different parts of the plain, speak that it was once enlivened and enriched by men. As we approached _Mourchekourd_ we found indeed cultivation, and the _kanauts_ which produce it.

9th. From _Mourchekourd_ a _caravanserai_ which we were to pass, bore by our compass N. 15 W. a distance of twelve miles. The road was good, on an arid plain, bounded by inconsiderable mountains. The _caravanserai_ itself was another of those structures, which in the latter part of our route we had so often admired. From this point we continued for eight miles over rising and falling ground to a second _caravanserai_ called _Aga Kemal_, but pronounced short without the _g_, _Aakemal_. Around we saw a little cultivation and a few poplars; all the rest is desert. On the left, bearing West, is the small territory of _Joshoogun_, containing the three villages of _Bendai_, _Khosroabad_, and _Vazvoon_, which we descried at the distance of about four miles, situated under a red hill at the extremity of the plain. From _Aga Kemal_ we ascended mountains entirely covered with snow, which, from its appearance indeed, may remain there throughout the whole year. The distance to _Kohrood_ was still sixteen miles, which we travelled by sun-set, having set off at five in the morning. By the bearings of elevated hills we arranged our whole march to the direction N. 10 W.

As we descended into the valley of _Kohrood_, which from the depth of the snow was a work of some trouble, we noticed a pretty little bubbling stream, which, winding through the vale, watered a succession of cultivated spots and plantations of apple, pear, poplar, and walnut trees. The town is built on the side of a mountain. We passed the night in the _caravanserai_, where our accommodations were indifferent, and our rest, of which we were in great want, was broken by the incessant noise and wrangling of our Persian attendants. Several of our horses had been left on the road from excessive fatigue.

The valley of _Kohrood_ extends in a North-Eastern direction; it is abundantly watered and wooded beautifully, and every species of fruit tree thrives there. The fields are disposed in terraces, and each separate plat of cultivated ground is intersected by small ridges raised to facilitate irrigation. We had hitherto passed through a country, to which so much wood and so much cultivation afforded a very delightful contrast. The Persians, indeed, admit, that there are few _Kohroods_ in the kingdom, and that in summer its verdure is incomparable. Our route led through another village in the same valley. Close to the road is the tomb of one of the inferior saints of Persia, with a pyramidical roof covered with green-lacquered tiles. As we passed near it, a little boy, surrounded by a set of his companions, entreated our compassion by invoking the name of the holy man in the neighbouring grave. When we had quitted the trees and cultivated grounds, we continued to wind in the valley which had then narrowed to a close and sometimes difficult pass. This pass, on a bearing of N. 30 E. is in length about six miles, and is terminated on the left of the road by a _caravanserai_ called _Gueberabad_. Before we reached it, we skirted a small artificial lake called the _Bund Kohrood_, the waters of which are supplied by the river of _Kohrood_, and the melting of the snows of the adjacent mountains, and are confined on the N. extremity by a strong wall built across the chasm of the valley. A stream, however, oozes out from the base, which finally expends itself in the plain about _Kashan_. _Gueberabad_ is at present a ruined village; in former days it was peopled, as its name imports, by the _Guebres_.

The _caravanserai_ is one of the good buildings of the age of the _Seffis_, and by an inscription on the front appears to have been erected by MEER SAKEE, one of the generals of SHAH ABBAS. Here first we discovered the plain of _Kashan_, bounded by the distant range of mountains, of which _Demawend_ formed the most conspicuous and the highest point. It rises in a very symmetrical cone abruptly from a long and unbroken range. It is covered with eternal snows, but its height is more easily deduced from the distance to which it is visible. In a direct line from the _caravanserai_ of _Gueberabad_, that distance could not have been less than one hundred and fifty miles; and the Persians declare that it can be seen even at _Ispahan_ from the minaret of the _Mesjid Shah_, which is at least two hundred and forty miles distant. We descended rapidly into the plain towards _Kashan_: here we were met by a large _istakball_, which accompanied us to the Northern side of the city with all the noises of Persian rejoicings.[37]

From _Kashan_ we continued along the immense plain; the mountains, which bind it on the North, just appeared in the lightest blue tints on the edge of the horizon. From _Kashan_ to our encampment at _Nusserabad_, we saw on the skirts E. and W. of the plain several villages, and with them cultivation. On the left of the road were _Cosac_, _Key_, _Ser_, _Badgoon_, _Rouand_, _Corabad_: on the right, _Aroun_, _Britgoli_, _Nouchabad_, and _Ali Abad_. We reckoned the total length of the day’s journey at thirty miles (on a bearing of N. 20 W.) viz. eight to _Gueberabad_, thirteen to _Kashan_, and nine to _Nusserabad_. In former days the people of _Nusserabad_ were noted for their idleness and propensity to voluptuousness, so that a fine gentleman is still called a _Mirza_ of _Nusserabad_.

On the morning of the 11th we quitted our tents two hours before sun-rise, as we had a march of forty miles before us to _Koom_; the Persians call the distance fifteen _fursungs_. We continued our route along the plain in the same course as on the preceding day. On our left were mountains, and on our right was the plain bounded only by the horizon, and constituting indeed the commencement of the great Salt Desert of Persia, which, according to the people of the country, extends even to the confines of _Usbeck Tartary_. The principal part of that over which we passed was a soil strongly impregnated with salt, which, after rain or snow, renders the roads difficult and dangerous. The weather was favourable during our passage, and we crossed without any inconvenience (except that of a heavy mud) a part of the plain dreaded by caravans and travellers in winter journies. We traversed the plain for ten miles, and then turned N. 30 W. among the mountains. As we proceeded, we observed their strata disposed in singular directions, and forming very varied angles with the horizon. Nature, in some places, amid the stupendous masses of rock which surrounded us, seemed to have finished her operations by small conical mounds, increasing by regular gradations as they approached the mother mountain. Every thing looked as if it were newly created, and only wanted the art and industry of man to rub off its first rude surface.

At about eleven miles from _Nusserabad_ stands a _caravanserai_ called _Sin Sin_, erected by the present King. It is a strong but vulgar building, when compared with the elegant structures of the reign of SHAH ABBAS. The rude stones and plaster with which it is constructed, are covered with a coat of white wash, which, at a distance indeed gives it a magnificent appearance. Near this were the ruins of a village. Still further, on the right of the road, are more ruins, which, according to my informer, were those of a town called _Dehnar_. A second _caravanserai_ of the same materials as that of _Sin Sin_, is situated at the distance of seven miles. Next is _Passangoor_, which is merely another _caravanserai_ in the plain, and distant twelve miles; at three miles distant further is _Langarood_, which is remarkable for some old pinasters standing about it, and a garden of some extent. From _Langarood_ to _Koom_ is ten miles more. We reached _Koom_ very late and had to pass through its extensive ruins when it was quite dark. The Envoy, who rode in the _takht-e-ravan_, was in some danger in passing over a bridge, for one of the mules slipping threw him nearly into the stream.

_Koom_ is esteemed a holy city; it encloses the tombs of many saints, and among others that of the sister of IMAUM REZA. The present King made a vow before he ascended the throne, that if he should ever succeed to the crown he would enrich the city of _Koom_ by buildings, and exempts its inhabitants from paying tribute. He has fulfilled his vow, and has built a large _medressé_ or college near the tomb of the sister of IMAUM REZA, and gives great encouragement to the learned people who resort to it. He covered the cupola of the tomb itself with gold plates (instead of the lacquered tiles which he removed), and he is said to spend one hundred thousand _tomauns_ annually, in the embellishments of these monuments. The riches of this tomb are said to be immense, and they are augmented every year by some new donation in jewelry and precious stones from the King’s wives, and the great men of the court. The tomb of IMAUM REZA himself is in the city of _Mesched_.

12th. The morning presented to us a dark and threatening atmosphere, and a country covered with snow. It had fallen in the night to a depth of six inches. We however proceeded on to _Pool Dallauk_, a distance of twelve miles; leaving our heavy baggage behind, as the Envoy was particularly anxious to reach the capital, before the commencement of the mourning of _Moharrem_. North of _Koom_ there is a small river called the _Khour-e-Shootur_. The plain was much soaked with the melted snow; we reached the _caravanserai_ at _Pool Dallauk_ at an early hour, intending to depart again at ten o’clock at night. This place derives its name from a barber who repaired the bridge, originally built by SHAH ABBAS over the river, which runs E. and W. before the _caravanserai_. The water of this stream, and indeed all the rivulets here, derive a saltness from the soil through which they pass.

After having refreshed our cattle and ourselves, we made preparations to depart at ten o’clock. The night was very dark, and our _Mehmandar_ (who had not shewn an inclination to second our desires of proceeding with all dispatch) now opposed every difficulty which he could devise: he expatiated on the danger of undertaking the journey by night, and talked of certain passes on the road, where travellers had been lost and never more heard of. He was in fact an old man, unaccustomed to the activity of our proceedings. Yet he was not the only one, who was disappointed and surprised at the celerity of our movements.

The chiefs of the tent-pitchers and of the muleteers, who had attended former missions, had passed months on the road, and thus secured a profit on the pay of their people and their mules, which the shortness of our engagement greatly reduced. Our journies were compared with the celebrated marches of their late King AGA MAHOMED KHAN, who waged so many wars with LOOTF ALI KHAN; but those, who considered it incompatible with the dignity of a great man to move fast, said that we were rather _choppers_ (couriers) than Embassadors. Yet the greatest distance that we ever travelled in one day was forty miles, and we employed thirty-five days in a journey of about six hundred and fifty miles, at an average perhaps of nineteen miles a day.

When we were unmoved by his forebodings, our _Mehmandar_ endeavoured to sooth us into compliance to his wishes, by sending us a variety of savoury dishes for our dinner, which however only renewed our spirits, and increased our eagerness to proceed. We accordingly mounted our horses. The troop had already advanced with much of our baggage. The Envoy (preceded by two people, who by courtesy were called guides, and followed by the _Mehmandar_ and the gentlemen of the suite) had not travelled half a mile from the _caravanserai_, when his conductors declared that they had lost the road. After long and fruitless exertion, bewildered more and more by those who had undertaken our direction, we resolved to return to the _caravanserai_, and to take a fresh departure. Even this became impracticable, for the town was not to be found. The _Mehmandar_ then, seemingly in great trouble, went forward himself to seek the place, and after much delay returned to us, bringing along with him a poor wretch, whose hands he had tied behind his back, and to whom he occasionally administered blows. This was our new conductor, but he was so much frightened, that he could not proceed, until the Envoy pledged himself, that he should meet with no harm; but on the contrary should receive a reward of fifteen _tomauns_, if he led us in safety to _Kinar-a-gird_. We again advanced, and were again unsuccessful; our new guide was more perverse or more stupid than his predecessors, and we were once more obliged to return in the hope of regaining the _caravanserai_. In search of this place we roamed about four long and melancholy hours, hearing the cries of wanderers, as we supposed like ourselves, in all parts of the plain. Unfortunately we had then no compass with us, nor was there a star to be seen that might direct us. At length however we espied a light, which happily proceeded from the walls of our _caravanserai_, and guided us again to it.

We departed again the next morning, and discovered to our surprise that the road, which to us had been rendered so intricate, led straight to the opening of the mountains through which we were to pass. It was impossible therefore to wander from it except purposely, and the _Mehmandar_ at length acknowledged that he had himself contrived the delay, and the mortification of the preceding night. The Envoy refused to speak to him, threatened a complaint to the King, and terrified him so effectually, that with every oath common to a Persian, he cursed himself as “an old fool, and a stupid senseless wretch.” The Envoy at length relented, and assured him that he had nothing to fear. At the distance of six miles from _Pool Dallauk_, we entered the swamp of _Kaveer_, which (to its termination at the _caravanserai_ called _Haooz Sultan_) we crossed in three hours, a length of ten miles. It is part of the great desert which reaches into _Khorassan_, the soil of which is composed of a mixture (at least equal) of salt and earth. Though the road therefore, over which we travelled, is as good as those in any other direction across the swamp, it is frequently after rains impassable: as the horses, which in our passage were up to the fetlock, are up to their bellies in less favourable weather.

At _Haooz Sultan_ we were met by an Officer with a letter from the King, expressing his thanks for the information communicated to him by the Envoy, of the defeats which “the _common_ enemy” had received in Spain, and inviting him to arrive at his capital without delay. We proceeded, and came to the _Mulluk-al-Moat_, a kind of pass leading through an extent of broken country, which, forming a labyrinth of little hills and intricate nooks, has not unfrequently been a real cause of difficulty to travellers, and to a certain degree embarrassed us till we reached _Kinar-a-gird_. In the dells were a variety of streams which were nearly salt. The land itself bears evident marks of the action of fire. The soap-wort is the most common shrub all over the face of the country, but no use is made of it. About two _fursungs_ from _Kinar-a-gird_ we crossed a large salt stream, running from W. to E. and just before it we were greeted by an _istakball_. Our march on this day was forty miles. We passed the night in a large _caravanserai_ built by the present King at _Kinar-a-gird_; where the _Mehmandar_, regardless of his late disgrace, again behaved ill, for his servants were suffered to intrude on the space which had been reserved for us.

From _Kinar-a-gird_ to _Teheran_ is six _fursungs_, which we called sixteen miles. We continued along the plain for two miles, crossing numerous channels of water which are carried from the stream by _Kinar-a-gird_. We then wound among some small hills for four miles, when the plain of _Teheran_ opened upon us, bounded from E. to W. by a lofty range of mountains. Clouds generally rest on their summits, and the snow at this time covered their very roots. On the West and high above them is the peak of _Demawend_.

_Teheran_, as we descended gradually into the plain, bore N. 25 E. of us. On the right are the ruins of the ancient city of _Rey_, scattered in great profusion at the foot of the nearer mountains. The soil of the plain is salt, and of course very soft, intersected by a great number of dikes, which being well replenished with water had rendered the road extremely difficult. As we approached _Teheran_, we were met by frequent _istakballs_, in the principal of which was NOROOZ KHAN, one of the King’s relations, and Master of the Ceremonies. The mob increased greatly as we came to the town walls. At the gate, through which we passed, were posted files of soldiers of the new corps, dressed something like Russians and disciplined after the European manner. We passed through small streets of miserable buildings, and saw nothing that indicated royalty. At length we dismounted at the house of HAJEE MAHOMED HOSSEIN KHAN, the second Minister, where we were treated with chairs and tables, which had been provided by our host. Though it had been his own residence, and though he had just removed from it to make room for the Embassy, we found it a mansion far less respectable than any that we had seen either at _Shiraz_ or _Ispahan_. All the riches are collected on the throne, and all around is poverty, either real or affected.

The reception of His Majesty’s Mission, from our entrance into Persia to our arrival in the capital, was marked with the most ready attention, and the highest honours from all classes; and our journey was now closed at _Teheran_ by particular and gratifying distinctions.

_Drawn by James Morier Esq^r._
_Published by Mess^{rs}. Longman, Hurst, Rees, Orme & Brown,
Paternoster Row, May 1, 1811._]

CHAP. XI.

TEHERAN.

VISIT FROM THE SECOND MINISTER--THE COURT POET--FIRST CONFERENCE--CEREMONIAL OF THE PUBLIC INTRODUCTION--PRESENTS TO THE KING BROUGHT BY THE ENVOY--ORDER OF THE PROCESSION--PRESENTATION--THE KING OF PERSIA--PEACOCK THRONE--THE COURT--THE PALACE--THE PRIME MINISTER; HIS LEVEE--PERSIAN TRAVELLER--PRESENT TO THE ENVOY--CEREMONIES OF THE MOHARREM.

It had been decided on the day of our arrival, that the first visit was to be paid by the owner of the house in which we lodged, HAJEE MAHOMED HOSSEIN KHAN, _Ameen-ed-Doulah_, or Lord Treasurer: but on the next day the Minister seemed to make some hesitation in according the compliment, and said that he rather expected it from the Envoy. Sir HARFORD JONES, however, immediately obviated the difficulty by representing that even among the most uncivilized nations the host pays the first attentions to his guest. When this explanation was satisfactorily received the Minister came, and with him the King’s Chief Poet, and some other officers of state.

We went through the common routine of compliments and presentations. When the poet was introduced to the Envoy, the conversation turned on poetry and the works of the bard himself. He was extolled above the skies; all exclaimed that in this age he had not an equal on earth, and some declared that he was superior even to FERDOUSI, the Homer of their country. To all this the author listened with very complacent credulity, and at length recited some of his admired effusions. His genius, however, is paid by something more substantial than praise; for he is a great favourite at court, and, according to my Persian informers, receives from the King a gold _tomaun_ for every couplet; and once indeed secured the remission of a large debt due to the King by writing a poem in his praise. Yet the people, from whom the supplies of this munificence are drawn, groan whenever they hear that the poet’s muse has been productive. Having exhausted the topics of the weather, and the relative temperature and air of _Teheran_, _Ispahan_, and _Shiraz_, our host took his leave, telling us that the house was our own, a common compliment of the East. In the evening the Envoy went to a conference with him, and settled some points of importance in the negociation. The ceremonial of the Envoy’s presentation to the King on the following day was then arranged; and it was agreed that the audience should be exactly the same as that given to Embassadors at Constantinople.

On the morrow accordingly we made every preparation of form for our introduction; and each appeared in green slippers with high heels, and red cloth stockings, the court dress always worn before the King of Persia. Early in the morning we received a message desiring us to be in readiness. At about twelve o’clock we proceeded to the palace. The presents for the King were laid out on a piece of white satin over a gold dish. It consisted of His Britannic Majesty’s picture set round with diamonds; a diamond of sixty-one carats valued at twenty thousand pounds; a small box, on the lid of which Windsor Castle was carved in ivory; a box made from the oak of the Victory, with the battle of Trafalgar in ivory; and a small blood-stone Mosaic box for opium. The Kings letter (which was mounted in a highly ornamented blue morocco box, and covered with a case of white satin, and an elegant net) was also laid on a piece of white satin. The Envoy carried the letter, and I the presents. When we went forwards to place them in the _takht-e-ravan_ (the litter), and again, when the procession advanced, the trumpet sounded “God save the King.”

The order of the procession was as follows:

Officers of the King of Persia,
Led horses belonging to the Envoy,
Native officers of cavalry, swords drawn,
The trumpeter,
Four troopers,
The _takht-e-ravan_,
Guard of native cavalry, swords drawn,
Persian officers of the Envoy’s household, in scarlet and gold,
dismounted,
THE ENVOY,
The Secretary and Gentlemen of the Mission,
Guard of native cavalry under Cornet WILLOCK, with drawn swords,
colours displayed,
Servants, &c.

The procession proceeded through miserable streets, which were crowded by the curious, until we came to the large _Maidan_, at the entrance of which were chained a lion and a bear. It then turned to the right, and, crossing over a bridge, entered into the _Ark_ or fortified Palace of the King, the building which contains every part of the royal household. Here the Envoy, as a mark of respect to the King of Persia, ordered the guard to sheath swords. There were troops on both sides, and cannon in several parts, and when we reached the first court, two very thick lines of soldiers were ranged to form an avenue for us. They were disciplined and dressed something after our manner, and went through their exercise as we passed. About thirty paces from the Imperial gate the _takht-e-ravan_ stopped: we then dismounted, and the Envoy and I advancing uncovered to it, took out the King’s letter and the dish of presents. We proceeded through dark passages, until we came to a small room, where were seated NOROOZ KHAN (a relation of the royal family, and _Ish Agassi_, or Master of the Ceremonies) and MAHOMED HUSSEIN KHAN MERVEE, a favourite of the King, and a deputy Lord Chamberlain, with other noblemen, who were waiting to entertain us. Our presentation was to take place in the _Khalvet Khonéh_, or private Hall of Audience, for it was then the _Ashooreh_ of the month of _Moharrem_, a time of mourning, when all matters of ceremony or of business are suspended at court: the King of Persia therefore paid a signal respect to his Britannic Majesty, in fixing the audience of his Envoy so immediately after his arrival, and more particularly at a season when public affairs are so generally intermitted.

After we had sat here about half an hour, smoked, and drank coffee, the Master of the Ceremonies informed us that the King was ready, and we proceeded again. We entered the great court of the _Dewan Khonéh_, (the Hall of Public Audience) on all sides of which stood officers of the household, and in the centre walk were files of the new-raised troops, disciplined after the European manner, who went through the platoon as we passed, while the little Persian drummers beat their drums. The line presented arms to the Envoy, and the officers saluted. In the middle of the _Dewan Khonéh_ was the famous throne built at _Yezd_ of the marble of the place, on which the King sits in public, but to which we did not approach sufficiently near for any accurate observation. We ascended two steps on the left, and then passed under arched ways into another spacious court filled in the same manner; but the men were mostly sitting down, and did not rise as we approached. We crossed the centre of this court, and came to a small and mean door, which led us through a dark and intricate passage. When we were arrived at the end of it we found a door still more wretched, and worse indeed than that of any English stable. Here NOROOZ KHAN paused, and marshaled us in order: the Envoy, first, with the King’s letter; I followed next with the presents, and then at the distance of a few paces the rest of the gentlemen. The door was opened, and we were ushered into a court laid out in canals and playing fountains, and at intervals lined by men richly dressed, who were all the grandees of the kingdom. At the extremity of a room, open in front by large windows, was the King in person. When we were opposite to him, the Master of the Ceremonies stopped, and we all made low bows; we approached most slowly again, and at another angle stopped and bowed again. Then we were taken immediately fronting the King, where again we bowed most profoundly. Our Conductor then said aloud,

“_Most mighty Monarch, Director of the World_,

Sir HARFORD JONES, Baronet, Embassador from your Majesty’s Brother, the King of England, having brought a letter and some presents, requests to approach the dust of your Majesty’s feet: (_Hag paee mobarek bashed_, literally,) that the dust of your feet may be fortunate.”

The King from the room said in a loud voice, “_Khosh Amedeed_, you are welcome.” We then took off our slippers, and went into the royal presence. When we were entered, the Envoy walked up towards the throne with the letter; MIRZA SHEFFEEA, the Prime Minister, met him half way, and taking it from him, carried it up and placed it before the King: he then came back and received the presents from my hands, and laid them in the same place. The Envoy then commenced a written speech to the King in English, which at first startled his Majesty, but seemed to please him much, as soon as JAFFER ALI KHAN, the English Resident at _Shiraz_, came forward and read it in Persian. The original was as follows:

“_May it please your Majesty_,

“The King my Master, willing to renew and strengthen those ties of friendship and alliance which subsisted between the Kings of Persia and of England, has deputed me to the foot of your Majesty’s throne, with the expression of these His Royal wishes and intentions.

“To have been charged with such a commission, I shall always consider as the most distinguished and honourable event of my life; and, when I thus deliver to your Majesty the letter of my most gracious and Royal Master, I feel confident in being honoured with your Majesty’s protection and favour.

“May the Great Disposer of all events grant your Majesty an increase of honour and prosperity, and may the friendship and interests of England and Persia henceforward become inseparable.”

The King then answered in return, that the states had been long allied, and he hoped that the friendship would increase daily; this the Prime Minister explained. The King then said, “How does the King of England, my Brother? _Damaughist chauk est?_ How is his health?” He then asked, if this were the son of the former King, with whose subjects he had had communications, and when he was told that the same King was still reigning, he exclaimed, “the French have told lies in that also!” (For they had spread the report that the King of England was dead.) The Envoy was then conducted to a gilt and painted chair placed for him, an honour never paid before to any Mission. I stood on his right; JAFFER ALI KHAN on his left; MIRZA SHEFFEEA, the Prime Minister, next to me; HAJEE MAHOMED HOSSEIN KHAN, the _Ameen-ed-Doulah_, and MIRZA REZA KOOLI, another of the Ministers, succeeded; and the Master of the Ceremonies closed the line. The other gentlemen stood in a row behind. The King informed the Envoy that the choice which his Brother the King of England had made of him as a Minister in Persia, was agreeable and acceptable to him; he then inquired about the Envoy’s journey, and asked some very familiar and affable questions. The gentlemen of the Mission were then separately introduced by their names and situations; the King said “_Khosh Amedeed_,” and we made very low bows. We returned with nearly the same ceremonies as we entered the palace, except that in the outer court, the Envoy was further honoured with a salute from three pieces of cannon.

The King is about forty-five years of age; He is a man of pleasing manners and an agreeable countenance, with an aquiline nose, large eyes and very arched eye-brows. His face is obscured by an immense beard and mustachios, which are kept very black; and it is only when he talks and smiles that his mouth is discovered. His voice has once been fine, and is still harmonious; though now hollow, and obviously that of a man who has led a free life. He appeared much pleased at finding that the Envoy could talk to him in Persian, as he did indeed after the first introductory speech; and when he was told that Sir HARFORD read and studied much, he asked many questions on literary subjects, for he professes to be a protector of learning and of learned men. He was seated on a species of throne, called the _takht-e-taoos_, or the throne of the peacock, which is raised three feet from the ground, and appears an oblong square of eight feet broad and twelve long. We could see the bust only of his Majesty, as the rest of his body was hidden by an elevated railing, the upper work of the throne, at the corners of which were placed several ornaments of vases and toys. The back is much raised; on each side are two square pillars, on which are perched birds, probably intended for peacocks, studded with precious stones of every description, and holding each a ruby in their beaks. The highest part of the throne is composed of an oval ornament of jewelry, from which emanate a great number of diamond rays. Unfortunately, we were so far distant from the throne, and so little favoured by the light, that we could not discover much of its general materials. We were told, however, that it is covered with gold plates, enriched by that fine enamel work so common in the ornamental furniture of Persia. It is said to have cost one hundred thousand _tomauns_.

We saw the whole court to disadvantage during our first visit: it was then the days of mourning, and the King himself did not at that time wear his magnificent and celebrated ornaments of precious stones. He appeared in a _catebee_ of a very dark ground, embroidered with large gold flowers, and trimmed with a dark fur over the shoulders, down the breast and on the sleeves. On his head he wore a species of cylindrical crown covered with pearl and precious stones, and surmounted by a light feather of diamonds. He rested on a pillow embossed on every part with pearl, and terminated at each extremity by a thick tassel of pearl. On the left of the throne was a basin of water in which small fountains played; and on its borders were placed vases set with precious stones. On the right, stood six of the King’s sons richly dressed: they were of different sizes and ages; the eldest of them (brother by the same mother to the Prince of _Shiraz_) was the Viceroy of _Teheran_, and possessed much authority in the state. On the left behind the basin stood five pages, most elegantly dressed in velvets and silks: one held a crown similar to that which the King wore on his head; the second held a splendid sword; the third a shield and a mace of gold and pearls; the fourth a bow and arrows set with jewels; and the fifth a crachoir similarly ornamented. When the audience was finished, the King desired one of his Ministers to inquire from JAFFER ALI KHAN (the English Agent) what the foreigners said of him, and whether they praised and admired his appearance.

The room in which we were introduced to the King was painted and gilded in every part. On the left from the window is a large painting of a combat between the Persians and Russians, in which the King appears at full length on a white horse, and makes the most conspicuous figure in the whole composition. The Persians of course are victorious, and are very busily employed in killing the Russians, who seem to be falling a sufficiently easy prey: at a farther end of the scene is the Russian army drawn up in a hollow square, and firing their cannon and muskets without doing much apparent execution. Facing this great picture, is another of equal dimensions, which represents the _Shah_ in the chase, having just pierced a deer with a javelin. In other parts are portraits of women, probably the King’s favourites, who are dancing according to the fashion of the country.

On the 19th, the Envoy visited MIRZA SHEFFEEA, the Prime Minister. He is an old man, of mild and easy manners, who displayed more knowledge of general politics than any other person whom we met in Persia. This was our first impression, and his subsequent management of the negociation convinced us of its accuracy. He was sufficiently acquainted with all the different courts of Europe, and knew perfectly the name of every Minister employed either within the state or on foreign service; and was deeply versed in the particular interests of Persia. He had acquired something of geography, when the French Embassador and suite were his guests; the Persians in general, however, live in the profoundest ignorance of every other country.

In the Ministers assembly we met MIRZA REZA, who had been sent Embassador to BUONAPARTE, and who entertained us with an account of _Frangistoun_, [Europe.] He expatiated with seeming ecstasy on every thing which he had seen; and MIRZA SHEFFEEA, who probably had often heard his stories, said to Sir HARFORD JONES, “I can believe many of the things which he has related to us, but one circumstance staggers me; he gives an account of an ass, which he saw at _Vienna_, with stripes on its back; that I shall not believe, unless you confirm it.” When Sir HARFORD told him that it was very true; that there were many such animals at the _Cape of Good Hope_, he was satisfied. The traveller proceeded to describe every part of the Continent: when he talked of the beauties of _Vienna_, and particularly when he mentioned that the streets were lighted up at night with globe lamps, one of the company (whose face during the different relations had exhibited signs of much astonishment, and sometimes doubt) stopped him, and said, “I can believe any thing else but that they light the streets with globe lamps: you can never make me believe that. Pray who will pay for them?”

MIRZA SHEFFEEA entertained us with a breakfast more elegant than any of the similar meals to which we had been invited. Just before we were rising to depart, the Minister, after having talked much on the hopes which he cherished, that the friendship of the two nations would long subsist, pulled a diamond ring from off his own finger, and placed it on the Envoy’s, saying, “And that I may not be thought to be insincere in my professions, let me beg of you to accept this as a pledge of my friendship for you; and I intreat you to wear it for my sake.” This gift, unlike the generosity of Persian presents, was really handsome; it was a beautiful stone, perfect in all its parts.

On the 23d we were invited by the _Jemidars_ (Indian officers) of the Envoy’s guard, to see that part of the ceremony of the _Moharrem_ which was appropriated to the day. We ascended an elevated platform, surrounded by a great crowd of Persians and Indians, and seated ourselves on _Nummuds_ prepared for us. On one side was a small ornamented temple, in which was represented the tomb of the _Imaum_; and all around it were the Indians who had changed their regimentals for a variety of fantastical habits, after the fashion of their own country. As every Indian can turn _fakir_, the greater part had assumed that character to perform the ceremonial of this feast. Many of them arose, and made long speeches (for every man has this liberty) on the death of the _Imaum_, though they intermixed much extraneous matter. After this a Persian _Mollah_, a young man of a brisk and animated appearance ascended a temporary pulpit, and commenced a species of chaunted sermon proper for the day. At the end of every period, he was answered in chorus by the multitude: and when he was nearly at the end, and had reached the most pathetic part of his harangue, he gave the signal for the people to beat their breasts, which they did accordingly with much seeming sincerity, keeping time to his chanting. When the _Mollah_ had finished, a high and cumbrous pole was brought into the scene. It was ornamented with different coloured silks and feathers, and on the summit were fixed two curious weapons made of tin, and intended to represent the swords of ALI. This heavy machine was handled by a man who, having made his obeisance to it (by first bowing his head, then kissing it) took it up with both his hands, and then amidst increasing applauses balanced it on his girdle, on his breast, and on his teeth. Next, on a small temporary stage, appeared several figures, who acted that part of the tragedy of the history of the _Imaum_ appointed for the day. It consisted of the death of the two children of his sister FATME, who, at the close of the performance were killed by AMEER, one of the officers of YEZID. The actors each held in their hands their speeches written on paper, which they read with great action and vociferation, and excited much interest in their audience, so that many sobbed and wept aloud; and when the ceremonial required the beating of breasts, many performed that part with a species of ferocious zeal, which seemed to be jealous of louder intonations from any breast than their own. In a part of the scene were then introduced water-carriers, who were emblematical of the thirst of the _Imaum_ at his dying moments. They bore on their backs bullocks’ skins filled with water, no inconsiderable weight; but in addition, they each received five well-grown boys, and under the united burthen walked round a circle ten feet in diameter, three times consecutively.

On the following night the Envoy and I visited the _Ameen-ed-Doulah_ HAJEE MOHAMED HOSSEIN KHAN. At his house, MIRZA SHEFFEEA, HAJEE MOHAMED HUSSEIN KHAN MERVEE, FATH ALI KHAN the poet, and other great men were assembled. The commemoration of the death of HOSSEIN was performing in his court-yard; and when the _Mollah_ begun to read that part of the ceremonial appointed for the day, the windows of the room, in which we were seated, were thrown open, and we all changed our positions, and sat with our faces towards the _Mollah_. His preaching lasted about an hour, and was followed by the representation of that part of the history of HOSSEIN’S death, which succeeded the scene performed on the preceding evening. First came HOSSEIN’S horse, with his turban on the saddle. Then, in a row on chairs, were seated YEZID, with three others; one of whom, dressed in the European habit, represented an European Embassador, (_Elchee Firing_.) ZAIN LABEDEEN, HOSSEIN’S brother, chained, and with a triangular wooden collar round his neck, appeared as a captive before YEZID, and was followed by his sister and children. YEZID’S executioner treated them with much barbarity, repelling the women when they implored his protection; and using the captives with great insult, at the instigation of YEZID. When ZAIN LABEDEEN, by YEZID’S _firman_, was brought to be beheaded, the _Elchee Firing_ implored his pardon, which instead of appeasing the tyrant, only produced an order for putting the _Elchee_ himself to death. All this scene produced great lamentation among the spectators, who seemed to vie with each other in the excess of their weeping, and in the display of all the signs of grief. The Prime Minister cried incessantly; the _Ameen-ed-Dowlah_ covered his face with both his hands, and groaned aloud; MAHOMED HUSSEIN KHAN MERVEE made at intervals very vociferous complaints. In some I could perceive real tears stealing down their cheeks, but in most I suspect that the grief was as much a piece of acting as the tragedy which excited it. The King himself always cries at the ceremony; his servants therefore are obliged to imitate him. When the mob passed the window, at which we were seated, they again beat their breasts most furiously.