Chapter I: Persia--Administration of the (3)

Whilst sitting quietly in our tents, we were hurried by the information that KERIM KHAN, the bearer of the King’s letter, was within a mile of our encampment. As it was necessary to receive it with every honour, we exchanged our travelling clothes for uniforms and swords, which the Persians have learnt to esteem as the dress of ceremony among Europeans. We proceeded in all haste to the _Shiraz_ road, with the body guard in their best clothes, with flying colours and trumpets sounding; and had advanced scarcely a quarter of a mile, when we perceived the Khan and his party descending a neighbouring hill. The Envoy, the _Mehmandar_, and all the gentlemen of the suite dismounted from their horses, and walked in form towards KERIM KHAN, who, in the same manner, advanced towards us with an attendant behind him, bearing the King’s _firman_. When the greetings of welcome were interchanged, the _Khan_ took the King’s letter from under a handkerchief, with which it was covered, and delivered it into the Envoy’s hands, saying aloud, “This is the King’s _firman_.” Sir HARFORD received it with both his hands, and having carried it respectfully to his head, placed it in his breast. We then mounted our horses, and returned to the Envoy’s tent, where all parties were seated according to their respective ranks. A long exchange of compliments then took place between the principals, “_khosh amedeed_” and “_bisgar khosh amedeed_,” (you are welcome, you are very welcome), were repeated again and again. This is the phrase after the “_selam alek_,” which is always used in Persia, and which answers to the “_khosh gueldin_” of the Turks. The Turks never use the “_selam alek_” to a Christian, or to one who is not of the faith; but the Persians are less scrupulous. KERIM KHAN conveyed many flattering compliments from the King to the Envoy, and added a great number on his own part. Sir HARFORD called for PEER MURAD BEG, his chief _Moonshee_, to read the _firman_. He arrived barefooted, and stood respectfully at the end of the tent; when the _firman_ was put into his hands all the company stood up, and the Europeans took off their hats: PEER MURAD BEG read the _firman_ aloud, with a marked and song-like emphasis. He then delivered it to Sir HARFORD, and we all seated ourselves again. After this, the usual routine of smoking and coffee was performed, during which the different gentlemen in the room were presented to KERIM KHAN; our _Mehmandar_ officiated in this instance, and described all our different qualities and qualifications with a great deal of humour. KERIM KHAN then departed to lodge with the _Mehmandar_, who, on this occasion, displayed considerable attention, though, in his general manners, he had appeared a rough blunt soldier: knowing that the Envoy (to whom in etiquette the duty devolved) was unprovided for the reception of such a guest, he requested permission himself to entertain the stranger.

29th. We departed from _Khoné Zenioun_ this morning at half past seven; and at a quarter past eleven arrived at the _Bagh Shah Cheragh_, a distance of twenty miles. We travelled mostly over a country of ascents and descents, and on a better road than those of the preceding days. The same river, by the banks of which we had been encamped, accompanied us in various directions, and, winding towards the east, met us at a station of _Rahdars_,[33] (as we were entering the plain of _Shiraz_), where we crossed it on a decayed bridge, and saw the first view of _Shiraz_ at the end of the plain. This day was replete with attentions and honours to Sir HARFORD and his Mission; an _istakball_, composed of fifty horsemen of our _Mehmandar’s_ tribe, met us about three miles from our encampment; they were succeeded, as we advanced, by an assemblage on foot, who threw a glass vessel filled with sweetmeats beneath the Envoy’s horse, a ceremony which we had before witnessed at _Kauzeroon_, and which we again understood to be an honour shared with the King and his sons alone. Then came two of the principal merchants of _Shiraz_, accompanied by a boy, the son of MAHOMED NEBEE KHAN, the new Governor of _Bushire_. They, however, incurred the Envoy’s displeasure by not dismounting from their horses, a form always observed in Persia by those of lower rank, when they meet a superior. We were thus met by three _istakballs_ during the course of the day, and MAHOMED ZEKY KHAN, our _Mehmandar_, amused us by the singing of a young boy, one of the first professional performers of _Shiraz_. A number of feats were performed by many of the horsemen who overspread the plain to a great extent; some throwing the _girid_, and then firing their pistols and muskets on full gallop, and others throwing the lance in the air, and catching it again.

On our road the _Mehmandar_, who had just received the message from _Shiraz_, announced that one of the Prince’s own tents was pitched at _Bagh Shah Cheragh_ for the Envoy, and that the Prince further begged his acceptance of it. The present, which was offered with so much attention and delicacy, was worthy of the hand which gave it. On our arrival we found it displayed in the full elegance of its construction. It enclosed a large square occupied by a set of walls, the exterior of which was a crimson field, with green embroidery; on their interior covering were worked cypress trees and fighting lions. The whole was supported by three lofty and elegantly painted poles. Rich carpets were spread on the ground, and the ceilings and hangings were of the finest _Masulipatam_ chintz, with appropriate poetical mottoes painted in the cornices. The _Feroshes_ (or tent-pitchers) had contrived to make a small temporary garden before the entrance, and to introduce a little stream of water to run through the few green sprouts which they had planted. Three large trays of sweetmeats were placed in the tent ready for the Envoy’s reception; upon which, when our visitors were departed, we fed heartily. During the night, a fall of snow very opportunely laid the dust for our entrance into the city, in which were to be displayed all our splendour and finery.

CHAP. VI.

SHIRAZ.

PUBLIC ENTRY INTO SHIRAZ--HONORS PAID TO THE MISSION--DESCRIPTION OF THE CITY--THE ENVIRONS: TOMB OF HAFIZ; HAFT-TEN; STORY OF SHEIK CHENAN; GARDENS; PLEASURE HOUSES--INTRODUCTION AT THE COURT OF SHIRAZ--THE PALACE--THE PRINCE--HIS GOVERNMENT--FETE GIVEN TO THE ENVOY BY THE MINISTER--PRESENT FROM THE PRINCE’S OWN TABLE--THE CHIEF SECRETARY’S ENTERTAINMENT--SECOND INTERVIEW WITH THE PRINCE--REVIEW--THE FETE GIVEN TO THE MISSION BY THE MEHMANDAR--THE PRINCE’S PRESENT; DRESSES OF HONOR.

On the morning of the 30th Dec. the day fixed for our public entry into _Shiraz_, all the suite appeared in full uniforms, and the Envoy in a Persian cloak or _catabee_ made of shawl, and lined with _Samoor_ fur; a dress permitted to the Princes alone, and on that account assumed by Sir HARFORD, as the best means of conveying to the senses of the multitude, the high consideration of the office which he bore. We proceeded from our encampment at ten o’clock. The troop was dressed in their richest uniform, and made a very splendid escort. Our _Mehmandar_ marshalled the whole of the Persian horsemen so admirably, that none crowded upon us in our march, and they only played about as usual and animated the plain by their noise and games.

At about two miles from the city we were met by some of the chief men of the place. It was a long contested negociation, whether they also were to pay the Envoy the compliment of dismounting, nor would they have submitted to this part of the ceremony, if KERIM KHAN, the bearer of the King’s letter, had not rode forwards and represented to them, that as he was sent from His Majesty to see that every respect was properly shewn to the representative of the British King, he must report their present conduct at _Teheran_. This hint had the desired effect; and, as their party approached, the chiefs dismounted, and I, with some other gentlemen of the Mission, dismounted also, and went forward to meet them: the Envoy formally expressed his determination to alight to nobody but the Minister. Those who had yielded the honour thus reluctantly, were BAIRAM ALI KHAN CADJAR, the _Ish Agassi_, or Master of the Ceremonies of the Prince’s Household, and HASSAN KHAN CADJAR, both of the King’s own family; AHMED BEG, one of the sons of NASR OALLAH KHAN, the Prince’s Prime Minister; and MIRZA ZAIN LABADEEN, the Chief Secretary. We proceeded slowly across the plain; the crowd and confusion increased almost impenetrably, as we approached the city, and nothing but the strength of our _Mehmandar_ could have forced the passage. Mounted on his powerful large horse he was in all parts, dispersing one crowd, pushing forwards another, and dealing out the most unsparing blows to those who were disinclined to obey his call. At the gate, however, notwithstanding all his exertions, the closing numbers detained our progress for above a quarter of an hour; and vollies of blows were necessary to clear the entrance.

At length it was effected: the Envoy led the column, surrounded by the Persian grandees, and followed by the gentlemen of the mission in their rank, and the troop of the body guard. We passed through many streets to the _Bazar-a-Vakeel_, a long and spacious building, the shops of which were all laid out with their choicest merchandize to display on the occasion the plenty and prosperity of the country. The _bazar_ itself is the most splendid monument of the taste and magnificence of KERIM KHAN, who administered the affairs of Persia with sovereign authority, under the name of _Vakeel_ or Regent, and died in 1779. The centre is marked above by a rotunda, and beneath by an enclosed platform; in the middle of which was seated the _Cutwal_ or Minister of Police. The trumpet of the troop, which was sounded all through the streets, continued with finer effect under the covered roofs of the _bazar_. As the Envoy passed, every one stood up; all knew at least the blows which followed any dilatoriness.

After a long procession we arrived at the house appropriated for our reception. It was neatly built of a pale yellow brick, and was very spacious, though considerably out of repair, and indeed in some parts falling into absolute ruin. We were ushered into an apartment, where a large service of sweetmeats and fruits was prepared for us. Here we sat, until we had dispatched the usual forms of a visit with the grandees who had met us, and had accompanied us thus far. The remaining part of the day was occupied in receiving other less noble visitants, and in accepting the countless presents which were sent from various parts, and which consisted for the most part of live lambs, fruits and sweetmeats. The store of sweetmeats at last became so great, that they were distributed amongst our numerous servants, troopers, and _feroshes_. Among those, who succeeded the original party of our guests, was an officer dispatched by the Minister NASR OALLAH KHAN with the intimation, that he deferred till the next day the pleasure of visiting the Envoy, in the fear that at present he might be fatigued with his journey. But our more brilliant visitors were YUSUF BEG, a Georgian youth of pleasing manners, a favourite in the suite of the Prince; and ABDULLAH KHAN, who was nominated to officiate as our _Mehmandar_, till we should meet on the road an officer appointed by the King from his capital to assume the functions in the further progress of the Mission.

31st. NASR OALLAH KHAN, accompanied by many of the greatest men of _Shiraz_, paid their visit of ceremony to the Envoy. The minister’s manners were plain, his features hard, and his beard peculiarly black. The usual routine of complimentary speeches and of other ceremonies occupied both parties during his stay. The Envoy, from the pressing invitation of the court, determined to hasten his departure towards _Teheran_; and _eight_ days were fixed for our stay at _Shiraz_, though circumstances afterwards occasioned a further delay.

_Shiraz_ has six gates: it is divided into twelve _mahalehs_ or parishes, in which there are fifteen considerable mosques, besides many others of inferior note; eleven _medressés_ or colleges, fourteen _bazars_, thirteen _caravanserais_, and twenty-six _hummums_ or baths. Of the gardens round, the principal are private property.

Of all the mosques, the _Mesjid Ali_ (built in the Khalifat of ABBAS) is the most ancient, and the _Mesjid No_ the largest. It was indeed originally the palace of ATTABEK SHAH, who, in a dangerous illness of his son, consulted the _Mollahs_, and was answered, (as the only means of the recovery of his child) that he must devote to the Almighty that, which of all his worldly goods he valued most. He accordingly converted his palace into a mosque, and the Mahomedans add, that his son was in consequence restored to health. The _Mesjid Juméh_ is likewise an ancient structure, and there are six others of an older date than the time of KERIM KHAN. Of the more modern mosques of _Shiraz_ the _Mesjid Vakeel_, the only one built by that Prince, is the most beautiful.

KERIM KHAN begun a college, but never finished it: there were already six, one of the earliest of which (that founded by IMAUM KOULI KHAN) is still the most frequented. Another was added by HAUSHEM, father of HAJEE IBRAHIM, the Vizier of the late King; and the _Peish Namaz_ and _Mooshtehed_ (Chief Priest of the city) built another.

The trades in Persia as in Turkey are carried on in separate _bazars_, in which their shops are extended adjacent to each other on both sides of the building. Before the reign of KERIM KHAN, there were the _bazars_ of the shoemakers, tinmen, crockery-ware-dealers, and poulterers, and about seven others: after his time the _Bazar Saduck Khan_ was built; but the most extensive, as well as the most beautiful of all, was that already described, founded by KERIM KHAN himself, and called the _Bazar-a-Vakeel_.

Of the _caravanserais_, the _Kaisariéh Khonéh_, built by IMAUM KOULI KHAN, and now in ruins, is the most ancient. There is another old structure, which was restored from a state of great decay, and assumed the name of its second founder ALI KHAN. There are five others, of which one is called _daphaugaun_, or the dressers of sheep-skins for caps; another _dakaukha_, or dyers; another _Hindoohan_, where the Hindoos reside. These were all built before the accession of KERIM KHAN, a date at which the splendour of _Shiraz_ revived. He added two within the city, and one beyond the walls, and others have since been erected.

The same Prince enriched his capital with three public baths, two within and one without the town. Four have since been raised, but there were already, before his reign, nineteen similar foundations.

There are several mausolea in _Shiraz_; the most distinguished of those without the walls is that of HAFIZ: there is also beyond the city, that of MIR ALI, son of MIRZA HAMZA, and grandson of the IMAUM MUSA.

In an evening ride we visited the environs, and, leaving the city by the _Ispahan_ gate, crossed a bridge in very bad repair. The torrent (over which it was thrown) in the day of CHARDIN passed through the town; it now flows in solitude, a mournful proof of the decay of _Shiraz_. We came to the _Mesjid Shah Mirza Hamza_, a mosque erected by KERIM KHAN, in a separate chamber of which are laid the remains of his son ABDUL RAKEEM KHAN. In the front court is an old and majestic cypress. Although some parts of the fabric are in decay, it is still beautiful. Its walls are built of the fine brick employed in all the public works of its founder, and, indeed, in the best houses of _Shiraz_. Its cupola is covered with green-lacquered tiles of a semi-circular form, which, fitted in close lines, give a symmetrical appearance of ribs to its shining surface. At the foot of the cupola, in Persian characters, are verses from the Koran and invocations to the prophet. Continuing our ride from this mosque, we turned out of the fine high road, which is fifty feet broad and very even; and followed a smaller path on the right to the _Hafizeea_ on the tomb of HAFIZ, the most favourite of Persian poets. This monument also, in its present state at least, is alike the work of KERIM KHAN. It is placed in the court of a pleasure house, which marks the spot frequented by the poet. The building extends across an enclosure: so that the front of it, which looks towards the city, has a small court before it, and the back has another. In the centre is an open vestibule supported by four marble columns, opening on each side into neat apartments. The tomb of HAFIZ is placed in the back court, at the foot of one of the cypress trees, which he planted with his own hands. It is a parallelogram with a projecting base, and its superficies is carved in the most exquisite manner. One of the Odes of the Poet is engraved upon it, and the artist has succeeded so well, that the letters seem rather to have been formed with the finest pen than sculptured by a hard chissel. The whole is of the diaphanous marble of _Tabriz_, in colour a combination of light greens, with here and there veins of red and sometimes of blue. Some of the cypresses are very large, but AGA BESHEER, the present chief of the Queen’s eunuchs, who happened to require timber for a building, cut down two of the most magnificent trees. This is a place of great resort for the Persians, who go there to smoke _kaleoons_, drink coffee, and recite verses.

After having done this, we proceeded forward, passing by the _Chehel-ten_ or forty bodies, until we came to the _Haft-ten_ or seven bodies, both buildings erected by KERIM KHAN to the memories of pious and extraordinary men who lived there as _Derveishes_. The _Haft-ten_ is a pleasure house, the front of which is an enclosed garden planted with rows of cypress and _chenar_ trees (a species of sycamore, with a verdure like that of the plane,) and interspersed with marble fountains. In its principal room, which is open in front and supported by two marble columns, are some paintings, many of which represent the sanctity of the _Derveishes’_ lives, and the ceremonies of the self-inflicted torments of their bodies. The principal paintings are ABRAHAM’S Sacrifice of ISAAC, on the right; on the left, MOSES keeping the flocks of _Jethro_. In the centre is the story of SHEIK CHENAN, a popular tale in _Shiraz_. SHEIK CHENAN, a Persian of the true faith, and a man of learning and consequence, fell in love with an Armenian lady of great beauty, who would not marry him unless he changed his religion. To this he agreed: still she would not marry him, unless he would drink wine: this scruple also he yielded. She resisted still, unless he consented to eat pork: with this also he complied. Still she was coy and refused to fulfil her engagement, unless he would be contented to drive swine before her. Even this condition he accepted: and she then told him that she would not have him at all, and laughed at him for his pains. The picture represents the coquette at her window, laughing at SHEIK CHENAN, as he is driving his pigs before her. The wainscoting of this room is of _Tabriz_ marble: one of the largest slabs is nine feet in length, and five feet in breadth.

We quitted this pretty place, and taking the road to the right came to a magnificent garden, another evidence of the splendour of the age of KERIM KHAN. From its founder it was called in his time _Bagh-a-Vakeel_, but it has since acquired the name of _Bagh-e-Iehan-Nemah_. An immense wall, of the neatest construction, encloses a square tract of land, which is laid out into walks, shaded by cypress and _chenar_ trees, and watered by a variety of marble canals and small artificial cascades. Over the entrance, which is a lofty and arched passage, is built a pleasure-house. It consists of a centrical room with a small closet at each corner. The ornaments and paintings with which it is embellished, are more rich and more elegant than I can describe. The wainscot is of _Tabriz_ marble, and inlaid with gold and ornamental flowers, birds, and domestic animals. The panels of the doors are beautiful paintings, with the richest and most brilliant varnish; and the ceiling and walls are all parcelled out into compartments, which display equal execution. From the window I took a sketch of the tomb of HAFIZ, which lay contiguous to it on the left hand. The town of _Shiraz_, with all its campagna, was full before my sight; whilst the setting sun threw the softest and most beautiful tints over the fine scenery of the surrounding mountains. (See Plate XIV.) In the centre of the _bagh_ or garden is another of the principal pleasure-houses, which they call _koola-frangee_ or Frank’s hat, because it is built something in the shape of one. There is a basin in the middle of the principal room, where a fountain plays and refreshes the air. The paintings and ornaments are not less beautiful and are more varied, than those of the last described building. The cornices are laid out into small compartments, where the painter has exerted his genius and fancy in delineating the most fantastical little pictures. Here are hunts of lions, there the combats of elephants and dragons: in one corner are dancing bears and monkies, in another are represented the heroes and heroines of fairy tales. The whole procession and amusements of a marriage are drawn in one compartment, and next to them all the ceremonies of a circumcision. In short, if the painter’s art had been equal to his fancy, these different compositions would have excited as much admiration as they now afforded amusement. The whole soil of this garden is artificial, having been excavated from the area below, and raised into a high terrace. The garden is now falling into decay; but those who saw it in the reign of KERIM KHAN delight to describe its splendour, and do not cease to give the most ravishing pictures of the beauty of all the environs of his capital.

_Drawn by James Morier Esq^r._
_Published by Mess^{rs}. Longman, Hurst, Rees, Orme & Brown,
Paternoster Row, May 1, 1811._]

Having enjoyed the present remains of the scene, we returned to the high road (on the right of which it is situated) and followed it to the _Tengui-Ali-Acbar_, a fortified pass in the time of the greatness of _Shiraz_, and long indeed before that time. Here are the remains of that gate, of which LE BRUN in his travels has given a very correct drawing. From the situation in which I sketched the ruin, I fancy that I must have rested upon the very stone where LE BRUN took his view: and there is only that difference between the two, which unfortunately exists in the real scene; that mine presents devastation, where his picture displays life and cultivation. An old _Derveish_ now lives in a small cell close to the ruined gate, and refreshes the passing stranger with a cup of pure water. The remaining walls and turrets, which are nearly attached to the gate on the _Shiraz_ side, still attest the artificial strength of the pass in former days; and the formation of the lands around points it out as a spot which the modern perfection of military art would render an almost impregnable hold.

The _Takht-a-Cadjar_ is a pleasure-house about a mile and a half East of the town, erected by the present Family, and situated in an enclosed garden of about twenty acres. It is built on a rock, but is much inferior indeed both in solidity and ornament, to any of the works of KERIM KHAN. From the upper window of one of its rooms, I took a view of the city, which extended itself beautifully before me. This pleasure-house is much visited by the Prince; on the left side of it he has an enclosed place in which he keeps antelopes and other game. From the quantity of water which runs through it, the garden itself must be most luxuriant in vegetation, and in summer a most delightful spot.

1st January, 1809. The first day of the new year was fixed for our visit to the Prince. On the day appointed, accordingly Sir HARFORD, preceded by our _Mehmandar_, and followed by the gentlemen of his Mission and the body guard, paraded through the town as on the day of our entry, until we reached the gate of state. The streets were filled as before, and the _bazars_ displayed all their wealth. The first gate introduced us immediately from the _bazar_ into the first court of the palace. The breadth and length of this court were of large and fine proportions. The high summits of its walls were crowned with arched battlements, the planes of which were worked in a species of close lattice. We proceeded through this court into another, the spacious area of which seemed to form a complete square. Its magnificent walls were covered in regular compartments with various implements of war arranged in distinct niches. Among them (besides spears, muskets, &c. and the small ensigns of their service) were the brass guns, called _zomboorek_, which are mounted on the backs of camels. Along the range stood soldiers in uniforms of scarlet cloth, an awkward imitation of the Russian military dress.

About thirty paces from the principal gate Sir HARFORD dismounted, and followed by us all, whilst the trumpet of the troop sounded the salute, advanced through the portico. Here the _Ish Agassi_, or Master of the Ceremonies, BAIRAM ALI KHAN CADJAR, who had been seated in a small place opposite the entrance, rose at our approach to meet us. He then called for his staff of office, (a black cane with a carved pummel) and placing himself at the head of the party, led us through rather a mean passage into a spacious court, at the extremity of which appeared the Prince. He was seated in a kind of open room, the front of which was supported by two pillars elegantly gilded and painted. This is called the _Dewan Khonéh_, or Chamber of Audience.

In the centre of the court is an avenue of lofty trees, at the sides of which are two long canals: these numerous fountains threw up a variety of little spouts of water, to the jingle of the wheels and bells of their machinery. On all sides of the court were placed in close files a number of well dressed men armed with muskets, pistols, and swords; these were the subalterns and the better sort of the soldiery in the Prince’s guard. Amongst them were here and there intermixed officers of high rank. In the centre of the avenue, and on the borders of the canal stood in long rows, respectfully silent and in postures of humility, all the chief Officers, Khans, Governors of towns and districts.

When we entered the court, the _Ish Agassi_ stopt and made a very low obeisance towards the Prince; and Sir HARFORD and his Mission made an English bow, and just took off their hats. These salutations, which were made four times in as many different places of the court, were repeated as we entered the _Dewan Khonéh_. The Prince in all this looked at us, but did not stir a muscle: we now proceeded straight forwards until Sir HARFORD faced the Prince, where he was then directed to sit, and we all took our stations in order. When we were seated, the Prince said in a loud voice, “_Khosh Amedeed_,” that is, “you are welcome;” which was repeated by NASR OALLAH KHAN his Minister, who stood at about five paces from him in an attitude of respect. Sir HARFORD made the compliments required, when the Prince desired us to sit at our ease. We however, as in a former instance, chose to be respectful and uncomfortable, and to continue in the fashion of Persia.

The Prince then added a variety of flattering things, talked of the friendship of the two nations, said how anxious his Father was to see the Embassador, and advised him to proceed to his court without delay. We had _kaleoons_, then coffee, and then (a compliment not repeated to a common guest) another _kaleoon_. After this was over, we got up, and making an obeisance, quitted the Prince’s presence with every precaution not to turn our backs as we departed. The same number of bows, repeated in the same places as on our entrance, closed the audience.

ALI MIRZA, the Prince of _Shiraz_, is not the least amiable of the King’s sons. After Prince ABBAS MIRZA, the Governor of _Aderbigian_, and the Heir of the crown, he is his father’s greatest favourite. In person he is an engaging youth of the most agreeable countenance and of very pleasing manners. His dress was most sumptuous; his breast was one thick coat of pearls, which was terminated downwards by a girdle of the richest stuffs. In this was placed a dagger, the head of which dazzled by the number and the brilliancy of its inlaid diamonds. His coat was rich crimson and gold brocade, with a thick fur on the upper part. Around his black cap was wound a _Cashmire_ shawl, and by his side, in a gold platter, was a string of the finest pearls. Before him was placed his _kaleoon_ of state, a magnificent toy, thickly inlaid with precious stones in every distinct part of its machinery. To me the Prince appeared to be under much constraint during the ceremony of our audience; in which he had been previously tutored by his minister: and I very easily believe, according to the stories related of him, that he exchanges with eagerness these etiquettes of rank for the less restrained enjoyments of his power. On these he lavishes his revenue; and in the costliness of a hunting equipage, the fantasies of dress, and the delicacies of the _Harem_ are frittered away a hundred thousand _tomauns_ a year. Young as he is, (for he is only nineteen) he has already a family of eight children. In his public government he is much beloved by his people; and although the Persians are not inclined in conversation to spare the faults of their superiors, of him I never heard an evil word. He has not indeed those sanguinary propensities, which are almost naturally imbibed in the possession of despotic power; and where others cut off ears, slit noses, and pierce eyes, he contents himself with the administration of the more lenient bastinado.

NASR OALLAH KHAN is appointed by the King to remit to the court of _Teheran_ any surplus revenue; an office probably neither easy to the Minister, nor acceptable to the Prince, whose immense and splendid establishments exact a very liberal proportion of the whole receipts of the province. In his actual service and pay the Prince has only a force of one thousand cavalry, of which two hundred (the quota furnished by the _Baktiar_ tribe) form his body guard; but in an emergency he could sent to the war twenty thousand horsemen. His troops provide their own arms and clothing, and they receive annually in pay forty piastres, and a daily allowance of one maun (seven pounds and a quarter) of barley, two mauns of straw, and a quarter of a maun of wheat, except in spring when their horses feed on the new herbage. They have further, each in his own country, for the maintenance of their families, a certain allotment of land, which they till and sow, and of which they reap the annual fruits. When a new levy is ordered, the head of each tribe brings forward the number which the state has required of him.

4th. At about one hour before sun-set, we repaired to the house of the Minister, to partake of an entertainment which was given to the Envoy. We had scarcely dismounted from our horses at the Minister’s gate, when the crowd, anxious to obtain admission, rushed forward, and long impeded the passage of the suite; until our _Mehmandar_ himself commanded respect by administering a volley of blows with a stick on the heads of the surrounding multitude. As soon as the Envoy entered the court, (which appeared from the numbers already pressed into it, to be the scene of the amusement), the Persian music struck up, and a rope dancer, whose rope stood conspicuous in the centre, begun to vault into the air.

ABDULLAH KHAN, the Minister’s Son, conducted us into the presence of his father, where we soon ranged ourselves among a numerous company of the Nobles of the place, who were invited to meet us. ABDULLAH KHAN, who is a man of about thirty, and a person of much consequence at _Shiraz_, never once seated himself in the apartment where his father sat, but, according to the Eastern customs of filial reverence, stood at the door like a menial servant, or went about superintending the entertainments of the day. As soon as we were settled, the amusements commenced; and at the same moment the rope-dancer vaulted, the dancing boys danced, the water-spouter spouted, the fire-eater devoured fire, the singers sung, the musicians played on their _kamounchas_, and the drummers beat lustily on their drums. This singular combination of noises, objects and attitudes, added to the cries and murmurs of the crowd around, amused, yet almost distracted us.

The rope-dancer performed some feats, which really did credit to his profession. He first walked over his rope with his balancing pole, then vaulted on high; he ascended the rope to a tree in an angle of forty-five degrees? but, as he was reaching the very extremity of the upper range of the angle, he could proceed no further, and remained in an uncertain position for the space of two minutes. He afterwards tied his hands to a rope-ladder of three large steps; and, first balancing his body by the middle on the main line let fall the ladder and himself, and was only brought up by the strength of his wrists thus fastened to their support. He next put on a pair of high-heeled shoes, and paraded about again; then put his feet into two saucepans, and walked backwards and forwards. After this he suspended himself by his feet from the rope; and, taking a gun, deliberately loaded and primed it, and, in that pendant position, took an aim at an egg (placed on the ground beneath him) and put his ball through it. After this he carried on his back a child, whom he contrived to suspend, with his own body besides, from the rope, and thence placed in safety on the ground. His feats were numerous (and as he was mounted on a rope much more elevated than those on which such exploits are displayed in England), they were also proportionably dangerous. A trip would have been his inevitable destruction. He was dressed in a fantastical jacket, and wore a pair of breeches of crimson satin, something like those of Europeans. The boys danced, or rather paced the ground, snapping their fingers to keep time with the music, jingling their small brass castanets, and uttering extraordinary cries. To us all this was tiresome, but to the Persians it appeared very clever. One of the boys having exerted himself in various difficult leaps, at last took two _kunjurs_ or daggers, one in each hand; and with these, springing forwards, and placing their points in the ground, turned himself head over heels between them; and again, in a second display, turned himself over with a drawn sword in his mouth.

A negro appeared on the side of a basin of water (in which three fountains were already playing), and, by a singular faculty which he possessed of secreting liquids, managed to make himself a sort of fourth fountain, by spouting water from his mouth. We closely observed him: he drank two basins and a quarter of water, each holding about four quarts, and he was five minutes spouting them out. Next came an eater of fire: this man brought a large dish full of charcoal, which he placed deliberately before him, and then, taking up the pieces, conveyed them bit by bit successively into his mouth, and threw them out again when the fire was extinguished. He then took a piece, from which he continued to blow the most brilliant sparks for more than half an hour. The trick consists in putting in the mouth some cotton dipped in the oil of Naptha, on which the pieces of charcoal are laid and from which they derive the strength of their fire: now the flame of this combustible is known to be little calid. Another man put into his mouth two balls alternately, which burnt with a brilliant flame, and which also were soaked in the same fluid.

The music was of the roughest kind. The performers were seated in a row round the basin of water; the band consisted of two men, who played the _kamouncha_, a species of violin; four, who beat the tamborin; one, who thrummed the guitar; one, who played on the spoons; and two who sung. The loudest in the concert were the songsters, who, when they applied the whole force of their lungs, drowned every other instrument. The man with the spoons seemed to me the most ingenious and least discordant of the whole band. He placed two wooden spoons in a neat and peculiar manner betwixt the fingers of his left hand, whilst he beat them with another spoon in his right.

All this continued till the twilight had fairly expired; when there commenced a display of fire-works on a larger scale than any that I recollect to have seen in Europe. In the first place, the director of the works caused to be thrown into the fountain before us a variety of fires, which were fixed on square flat boards, and which bursting into the most splendid streams and stars of flame, seemed to put the water in one entire blaze. He then threw up some beautiful blue lights, and finished the whole by discharging immense vollies of rockets which had been fixed in stands, each of twenty rockets, in different parts of the garden and particularly on the summits of the walls. Each stand exploded at once; and at one time the greater part of all the rockets were in the air at the same moment, and produced an effect grand beyond the powers of description.

At the end of this exhibition, a band of choice musicians and songsters was introduced into the particular apartment where we were seated. A player on the _kamouncha_ really drew forth notes, which might have done credit to the better instruments of the West: and the elastic manner with which he passed his bow across the strings, convinced me that he himself would have been an accomplished performer even among those of Europe, if his ear had been tutored to the harmonies and delicacies of our science. The notes of their guitar corresponded exactly to those of our instrument. Another sung some of the odes of HAFIZ, accompanied by the _kamouncha_, and in a chorus by the tamborins.

After this concert, some parts of which were extremely noisy and some not unpleasant even to our ears, appeared from behind a curtain a dirty-looking negro, dressed as a _fakeer_ or beggar, with an artificial hump, and with his face painted white. This character related facetious stories, threw himself into droll attitudes, and sung humorous songs. Amongst other things he was a mimic; and, when he undertook to ridicule the inhabitants of _Ispahan_ he put our _Shiraz_ audience into ecstacies of delight and laughter. He imitated the drawling manner of speaking, and the sort of nonchalance so characteristic of the _Ispahaunees_. The people of _Shiraz_, (who regard themselves as the prime of Persians, and their language as the most pure, and their pronunciation as the most correct), are never so well amused as when the people and the dialect of _Ispahan_ are ridiculed. Those of _Ispahan_, on the other hand, boast, and with much reason, of their superior cleverness and learning, though with these advantages indeed they are said to mix roguery and low cunning. The exhibition finished by the singing of a boy, the most renowned of the vocal performers at _Shiraz_, and one of the Prince’s own band. His powers were great, descending from the very highest to the very lowest notes; and the tremulations of his voice, in which the great acme of his art appeared to consist, were continued so long and so violently, that his face was convulsed with pain and exertion. In order to aid the modulations, he kept a piece of paper in his hand, with which he did not cease to fan his mouth. When the concert was over, we collected our legs under us (which till this time we had kept extended at ease) to make room for the _sofras_ or table-cloths, which were now spread before us. On these were first placed trays of sweet viands, light sugared cakes, and sherbet of various descriptions. After these, dishes of plain rice were put, each before two guests; then _pillaus_, and after them a succession and variety, which would have sufficed ten companies of our number. On a very moderate calculation there were two hundred dishes, exclusive of the sherbets. All these were served up in bowls and dishes of fine china; and in the bowls of sherbet were placed the long spoons made of pear-tree, (which I mentioned on a former occasion), and each of which contained about the measure of six common table-spoons, and with these every guest helped himself. The Persians bent themselves down to the dishes, and ate in general most heartily and indiscriminately of every thing sweet and sour, meat and fish, fruit and vegetable. They are very fond of ice, which they eat constantly, and in great quantities, a taste which becomes almost necessary to qualify the sweetmeats which they devour so profusely. The Minister NASR OALLAH KHAN had a bowl of common ice constantly before him, which he kept eating when the other dishes were carried away. They are equally fond of spices, and of every other stimulant; and highly recommended one of their sherbets, a composition of sugar, cinnamon, and other strong ingredients. As the Envoy sat next to the Minister, and I next to the Envoy, we very frequently shared the marks of his peculiar attention and politeness, which consisted in large handfuls of certain favourite dishes. These he tore off by main strength, and put before us; sometimes a full grasp of lamb mixed with a sauce of prunes, pistachio-nuts, and raisins; at another time, a whole partridge disguised by a rich brown sauce; and then, with the same hand, he scooped out a bit of melon, which he gave into our palms, or a great piece of omelette thickly swimming in fat ingredients. The dishes lie promiscuously before the guests, who all eat without any particular notice of one another. The silence, indeed, with which the whole is transacted is one of the most agreeable circumstances of a Persian feast. There is no rattle of plates and knives and forks, no confusion of lacquies, no drinking of healths, no disturbance of carving, scarcely a word is spoken, and all are intent on the business before them. Their feasts are soon over; and, although it appears difficult to collect such an immense number of dishes, and to take them away again without much confusion and much time, yet all is so well regulated that every thing disappears as if by magic. The lacquies bring the dishes in long trays called _conchas_, which are discharged in order, and which are again taken up and carried away with equal facility. When the whole is cleared, and the cloths rolled up, ewers and basins are brought in, and every one washes his hand and mouth. Until the water is presented it is ridiculous enough to see the right hand of every person (which is covered with the complicated fragments of all the dishes) placed in a certain position over his left arm: there is a fashion even in this. The whole entertainment was now over, and we took our leaves and returned home. Such a fête costs a very considerable sum. Besides ourselves, all the Envoy’s numerous servants, and all the privates of his body guard were invited to it, and eat and drank in different apartments. The same dinner which had been put before us was afterwards carried to them, and I understand that, even in the common domestic life of a Persian, the profusion which is exhibited on his table surprises the European stranger; and is explained only by the necessity of feeding his numerous household, to whom all his dishes are passed, after he has satisfied his own appetite.

5th. As we were at dinner on the following day, one of the Prince’s own _feroshes_ brought a dish composed of eggs, &c. made up into a species of omelette, with two small bowls of sherbet, and a plate of powdered spices, which he announced as a present from the Prince himself. These sort of attentions are frequent between friends in Persia, and, at the moment of dinner, it seems that the Prince, who is particularly fond of the dish, was anxious that the Envoy also should partake of it; though at the time of receiving it, the Envoy suspected, that it might have been the trick of some one who calculated on a more valuable largess in return.

6th. A _zeeafet_ or entertainment was given this evening to the Envoy by MIRZA ZAIN LABADEEN, Chief Secretary and Private Minister to the Prince. This was so nearly a repetition of the former display, that any description may well be spared. One thing indeed may be remarked; as soon as the Prime Minister came into the room, he took the direction of the feast upon himself; and the master of the house, the real donor, sunk into the character of a guest. This is the case wherever the Minister goes, as he is supposed to be the master of every thing, and to preside in every place, next after the Prince his own immediate superior.

On the 7th, JAFFER ALI KHAN, (the English Agent at _Shiraz_) Mr. BRUCE and I, went by the Envoy’s order to the Minister, to propose certain measures. We were introduced into the _Bagh-a-Vakeel_, a garden belonging to the Prince, and situated contiguous to his palace in the town. In the centre is a pleasure house called _Koola-frangee_, (and built on the model of the one of the same name in the _Bagh-a-Jehan Nemah_, on the outside of the city gates.) Here we conferred with the Minister, and as, in quitting him, we were going out of the garden, we chanced to meet the Prince himself, who asked us the common questions of civility, and passed on. In the evening, the Prince invited the Envoy to meet him on horseback at the _Maidan_, and expressed a wish to see the troop of cavalry go through some of its exercises and evolutions. We accordingly proceeded, and, when we perceived the Prince, we all dismounted from our horses for a moment, and when he waved his hand, we all mounted again, and rode close up to him. His manners and appearance were most elegant and prepossessing. He was dressed most richly: his outer coat was of blue velvet, which fitted tight to his shape; on the shoulders, front pocket, and skirts, was an embroidery of pearl, occasionally (in the different terminations of a point or angle,) enlivened with a ruby, an emerald, or a topaz. Under this was a waistcoat of pearl; and here and there, hanging in a sort of studied negligence, were strings of fine pearl. A dagger, at the head of which blazed a large diamond, was in his girdle. The bridle of his horse was inlaid in every part of the head with precious stones; and a large silver tassel hung under the jaws. The Prince was altogether a very interesting figure.

Cornet WILLOCK paraded his troop much to the Prince’s satisfaction, and in the interval his own men ran their horses up and down the course, firing their muskets in various dextrous ways. Unfortunately one of his cavaliers met with a very dangerous fall.

ISMAEL BEG, the young Georgian favourite, also shewed off his horse. He carried the Prince’s bow and arrows, which were placed on each side of him, in quivers covered with black velvet and thickly studded with pearls and precious stones. After this, the Prince ordered his Russian prisoners, thirty in number, to draw up and go through their exercise. These poor fellows, commanded by their officer (who goes by the name of _Rooss Khan_, or Russian Khan), went through every thing that they could do, and even formed a hollow square. To all this the Persians give the name of _bazee_ or play. NASR OALLAH KHAN, the Minister, kept at a respectful distance, whilst the rest of the nobles and chief men were stationed in a crowd much further off. The Prince remained an isolated and unsocial being, never speaking but to command, never spoken to but to feel the servitude of others.

It is always the custom for the King and Princes to order their visitors away, which they do, either by a nod of the head or a wave of the hand. We received this kind of licence to depart, and returned to town in the order in which we came out.

8th. The last and most splendid entertainment was given this evening to the Envoy by our _Mehmandar_, MAHOMED ZEKY KHAN. His own house was not large enough to contain us and our numerous attendants; he received therefore the Prince’s permission to give it in that of AGA BESHEER, the Queen’s head Eunuch. The apartment, into which we were introduced, was still more elegant than any which we had yet seen, and if it could have been transported to England, would probably have excited universal admiration, and a new taste in the interior decoration of rooms. Like almost all the public rooms or _dewan khonéh_ of a Persian house, it was in shape a parallelogram, with a recess formed by a Saracenic arch, in the centre of the superior line of the figure. The ground of the wall was of a beautiful varnished white, and richly painted in gold in ornaments of the most neat and ingenious composition. The entablature, if it may be so called, was inlaid glass placed in angular and prismatic positions, which reflected a variety of beautiful lights and colours. The ceiling was all of the same composition. In the arched recess was a chimney piece formed in front by alternate layers of glass and painting. The whole side fronting the arch was composed of windows, the frames of which opened from the ground; and, though of clumsy workmanship compared with frames in England, yet aided by the richness of the painted glass intermixed with the gilding of the woodwork, they filled up the space splendidly and symmetrically.

This fête corresponded in all its parts with the others that I have described; except that there was a greater variety of entertainments. Besides the rope-dancer, water-spouter, dancing boys, and fire-eater, we had an exhibition of wrestlers, a combat of rams, and a sanguinary scene of a lion killing an ox. The wrestling was opened by two dwarfs, about three feet and a half in height: one with a beard descending to his girdle, with deformed arms and hands, but with strong and muscular legs. The other, with bad legs, but with regular and well shaped arms. Both had the appearance of those animals represented in mythological pictures as satyrs, or perhaps of the _Asmodeus_ of LE SAGE. The figure with the beard was the victor, and fairly tossed his antagonist into an adjoining basin of water. The professional wrestlers succeeded; the hero of whom threw and discomfited eight others, in most rapid succession. In this the combat of rams resembled that of the wrestlers: one bold and superb ram, belonging to the Prince, remained the undisputed master of the field, for although a great number of his kind were brought to meet him, none dared to face him after the first butt.