Chapter M: JOUANNIN and his companion indeed, by all the accounts which I (2)

From him too I received an account of their more celebrated neighbours the _Turcomans_, the confines of whose territory are close to _Asterabad_. They are _Sunnis_, and in consequence execrated by the Persians, who call them _Giaours_ or Infidels. They live in tribes or _eels_, being subject to no particular master. Each tribe has, indeed, a nominal chief chosen by themselves, but possessing no further authority among them than that of settling differences, and arranging their civil economy. As a people, they have no fixed habitations; but carry about the tents in which they live, and which the Persians call _Kara Khader_, black tents. Their general characteristics are those common to all wandering nations; great hospitality within their own boundaries, and universal depredation abroad. The _Turcomans_ make incursions into Persia; frequently crossing the wide intervening desert of sand, and surprising and carrying away from the centre of towns and villages men, women, and children. They, even now, extend their inroads as far as _Koom_, _Kashan_, _Langarood_, _Nusserabad_; and the ruined villages about _Koom_ were destroyed by them. These Raids, which are called _Chappow_, are performed on horseback by parties of twenty or thirty with incredible speed and activity. Their horses (renowned over the East for swiftness and hardiness) support them admirably in these expeditions, as like their riders they undergo immense fatigue with a very small portion of food. They are, therefore, bought by the neighbouring nations at vast prices; which, (with the sale among other tribes of their captives, and of their camels, sheep, &c.) supply the chief source of the _Turcoman’s_ wealth, and accumulate immense sums in ready money. The captives lead a wretched life: if young, they are sent into the interior to tend the cattle; but when they grow old and unfit for service, they are killed by their masters; who comfort their consciences by placing the skin of the deceased at the threshold of their door, in the belief that he approaches Paradise in proportion as his skin gets pierced with holes and worn out. On the other hand, their hospitality, the theme of so many pens, is not exaggerated. A stranger, laden with gold and precious stones, who claims protection at the tent of a _Turcoman_ is sure to find it. He remains there as long as he pleases, his person and his property are in perfect safety, and, when he is desirous to depart, he is escorted by one of the tribe, which alone is a sufficient protection to him through the whole of their own district, and through every other kindred people. Caravans thus travel from _Asterabad_ to _Astrachan_ without molestation, and in the full security of the property which they convey. _Turcomania_ is said to be extremely populous, but wholly uncultivated. The people feel not the want of corn, and are content therefore to live upon the flesh of horses, camels, and sheep, and on the milk of mares and camels. They excavate a large hole in the ground, in which they make a fire; and, placing the meat in the embers, cover it up until it be baked. To the Northward of _Turcomania_ are the _Kamchauks_, who inhabit a desert, and are reported to be most ferocious and warlike, and hitherto unconquered. All these inhabit the Eastern borders of the _Caspian Sea_, called by the Persians _Dereea-Kulzum_.[41] The Persians are at present at peace with the _Turcomans_, although they are still equally liable to be surprised by their _Chappow_ parties. In the time even of SHAH ABBAS these depredations were carried to an inconceivable extent. AGA MAHOMED KHAN, the late King, made several attempts against them without any profit; and particularly indeed against the _Kamchauks_, where he met with a defeat. In former times the _Turcomans_ used to make their attacks on the coasts of _Ghilan_ and _Mazanderan_ in boats. Now they are not so depredatory; because the country is more inaccessible, and the people, according to my informer, are more dextrous in their matchlock guns and bows; so much, indeed, are they improved, that, in the true Persian style, he added, “Twenty men of _Mazanderan_ will beat one thousand _Turcomans_.”

We recommenced our journey on the 1st of June; and on that day waited upon MIRZA BOZURK to pay our respects to him on leaving _Tabriz_. He told us that we were now departing at a most lucky hour, for that this had been the morning fixed some time ago by the astrologers as the most fortunate for the Prince to leave his capital, preparatory to his usual summer campaign. He informed us, among other news, (that had just reached him from _Constantinople_) that the Turks had defeated the Russians, and had taken so many prisoners that they were selling them in the _bazars_ at _Constantinople_.

CHAP. XVI.

TABRIZ TO ARZ-ROUM.

PERSIAN TRAVELLING--DEPARTURE FROM TABRIZ--BEAUTY OF THE COUNTRY--LAKE OF SHAHEE--STATION OF RAHDARS--KHOI; TOWN; GARDENS; PLAIN--AGRICULTURE--ELAUTS--CONVENIENCE OF TENTS--COURDISTAN ROBBERS--HERDS OF MARES--FRONTIERS OF PERSIA AND TURKEY--BAYAZID--MOUNT ARARAT--RECEPTION IN THE TENTS OF THE ELAUTS--DIADIN; THE EUPHRATES--IBRAHIM PACHA; VISIT TO HIS ENEMY TIMUR BEG; RECEPTION AT THE CASTLE OF TURPA CALEH--DEPOPULATION OF THE COUNTRY--OMEN--RIVER ARAXES--CONDUCT OF THE AGA OF ALWAR.

The mode of travelling in Persia is easy and commodious. In winter they generally begin their journey at sun-rise. The baggage proceeds, and then the master. He breakfasts either before he sets off, or in a more pleasant spot on the road, (regarding in each case the advantage of a stream of running water as the motive of preference;) and thus he allows time for his luggage to reach the stage before him, and his people to prepare every thing for his reception, spread his carpets, and get the necessary articles for cooking his dinner. On his arrival he eats his _choshtá_, or intermediate meal, and then sleeps. At sun-set he takes another repast (his _noshtá_); and his servants then pack up every thing ready for his departure the next morning. He proceeds by easy stages, generally from five to six leagues a-day, which, as he always rides his own horses, is a good day’s journey at the common rate of travelling. If he has a _Mehmandar_ with him, he is fed and lodged and travels entirely at the public expence. When the _Mehmandar_ arrives at the village, he produces his _firman_, (in which the kind and quantity of the articles to be provided are specified;) and demands a correspondent supply from the inhabitants.

1st June, 1809. We left the _Khoi_ gate of _Tabriz_ at seven o’clock, and in six hours and a half reached _Ali Shah_, a distance called by the people of the country six _fursungs_, and which I reckoned at twenty-four miles. From the top of our lodging at _Ali Shah_, I could see the mountain near which _Tabriz_ is situated, I can therefore place exactly the bearing of our route, at N. 75 W. We kept to the Eastward of the plain in consequence of the difficulties along the road through the centre, which was then in many places overflowed.

Near _Tabriz_ on the left, are some gardens and houses, called _Hucknavar_; then the village of _Mayan_. To the Eastward of the city itself, is a conspicuous hill called the _Bahalil Tapé_, which abounds in every kind of game. Having travelled three miles from _Tabriz_ on a bearing nearly N. we came to a bridge of nine large and three small arches, thrown over the river _Agi_, which, flowing from E. to W. falls at length into the lake of _Shahee_. The river rises near _Ardebil_; and is fordable by mules where we crossed it, though we preferred the bridge, which happened indeed to be in better repair than those between _Teheran_ and _Tabriz_. At about four miles from the city, we passed a village called _Alwar_; and three miles further another of the same name, each surrounded with a cultivated territory, intersected by a thousand dikes and _kanauts_. The greatest part of the plain is of a soil strongly impregnated with salt; and as in every other district of the same quality, we witnessed the curious effects of the vapour, (called _Ser Aub_) which overspread the plain. About four miles before we reached _Ali Shah_, we crossed a bridge of four arches, over a pool of standing salt water. The industry of agriculture was visible, and the crops of barley and corn were luxuriant and promising.

The plain of _Tabriz_ extends far to the W. and S.; the mountains which border it on those directions being just designed in very light tints in the horizon. To the Northward and Eastward it is bounded by hard-featured lands of an inferior elevation, indicating on their surfaces the minerals below. There are several pretty villages situated to the North, on the declivity of the mountain about three or four miles from _Ali Shah_, and which, together with it and others to the W. are in the _Mahalé_ or district of _Ghunéh_.

The lake of _Shahee_ is about seven _fursungs_ from _Ali Shah_, and the middle of the long mountain (which extends into the centre of the lake, and which now appeared isolated on the horizon of the plain) bore S. 50 W. of our station.

In my progress to _Constantinople_, I traversed a country in its conformation most picturesque, and in its productions most luxuriant. No traveller in any season, or in any direction, could have passed these scenes without admiration; but I saw them in all the richness of spring, contrasted with a winter in Persia; and after the leafless and barren region which I had passed, I enjoyed doubly the wild prodigality of vegetation, which in the early part of the year is displayed through Asia Minor. The impression therefore of delight which I experienced, was strongest at the first point of contrast; and the first verdure and foliage which I saw near _Tabriz_, appeared to me to constitute the very perfection of landscape.

2d June. If a writer of romance would describe beautiful scenery, he might select our departure from _Ali Shah_. We began our journey by a most charming moonlight; and the sky was delightfully serene. Just as the sun was rising we reached an orchard, (full of every species of fruit, particularly almonds, and) skirting the town of _Shebester_; which, embosomed in trees of every hue, was situated on the declivity of the mountains on our right.

_Shebester_ is a large town, surrounded by several villages, and by more wood and cultivation, than any spot I had yet seen in Persia. Hitherto indeed the want of trees, either as a shade to the road, or as a relief to the inequalities of the heights, had been constant and uniform. We admired therefore doubly the beauties of our present course. Streams of running water were meandering in every direction amid the numerous willows, poplars, almonds, and other trees, which bordered our road: and at intervals the artificial dikes were opened to admit water into the beds of rice. The greater part of the country was covered with verdure, for the new corn was already well advanced both in maturity and plenty. Peasantry enlivened the fields by the labours of the spade or the plough.

After quitting _Shebester_ we came in full view of the delightful lake of _Shahee_. It derives its name from the surrounding _Mahalé_, which may contain twenty villages. I was told that its waters are as salt as the sea, and that the sand over which they flow, produces the salt used at _Tabriz_. It extended itself N. W. and S. E. before us, and its Western extremities were terminated by a stupendous chain of mountains, whose snowy summits, softened by the haze, contrasted admirably with the light azure of the lake. As we proceeded, the long mountain (which I mentioned in the route of yesterday, extending itself and forming a peninsula in the lake) appeared to have no connection whatever with the surrounding lands; and, by a stranger to the real topography, would have been pronounced an island. Its termination (to the south as seen from our road) was in the form of a sugar-loaf.

Near _Shebester_ we passed the village of _Misholéh_, and, lower down in the plain, those of _Arsaléh_ and _Halee_, on the left of the road. Others indeed are seen at every turn, situated at small intervals on either side alternately, all in the _Mahalé_ of _Ghunéh_. Among them are _Besh-kefelout_, on the left; _Khomyéh_, prettily surrounded with verdure, on the right; _Shinwar_, on the left again; _Kuzec-dunar_, on the right, three _fursungs_ before we reached our stage at _Tasouj_; and on the left, about two miles from the borders of the lake, _Alibanglou_, the first place in the _Bolouk_ of _Aeenzaub_. In this line we stopt and fed our cattle and ourselves; while a refreshing breeze from the Westward just curled up the waters of the lake, and waved the corn fields which extended themselves on all sides of us.

Our bread and _moss_ was shared by a stranger who was going to _Oroumi_, a large town, distant thirty _fursungs_ from _Tabriz_; and situated, by the pointing of his hand, S. 50 W. from us, on the left or West side of the lake, which the road continues to skirt through its whole course. On the East of the lake is _Saouk Bolag_, the site of the ancient city of _Sheherivan_. The country, through which we passed in the day, was interesting and picturesque; in every turn of the view enriched by the lake and its surrounding capes and mountains.

From all that I could learn in this region, (and I inquired of many who had travelled repeatedly over this part of _Aderbigian_), there appeared to exist no other lake than this of _Shahee_. And I have as regularly made direct inquiries about the situation of the city of _Van_ and its lake, without obtaining any thing like a satisfactory answer. On the contrary, the very existence of such a place, and such a lake, was always denied; I mention this, when the position of _Van_ has been clearly ascertained, to shew how general was the ignorance of the people on every subject which was not immediately within their own circumscribed district. Nor was I more successful in my inquiries on the real extent of the lake before them: every one said that it was very large, and that it reached further, than from its appearance we might suppose.

At about five miles from _Tasouj_, there is a village on the left called _Rahdar Khoné_; and then a station of _Rahdars_, or custom-house officers. As we passed it, one of them, a man of a much more respectable appearance than any of the class whom we had seen on other occasions, told us that a driver with seven loaded mules had gone forwards, and refused to pay the duties, alleging that his beasts were carrying part of our baggage; and were therefore in the King’s service, and as such exempt from the impost. In fact, however, my _Charwardar_ (or conductor of the mules or caravan) had added to my charge this number, above those that were necessary for my purposes; and, having already received a part of their hire from me, was now employing them still more to his own profit, by conveying upon them, duty-free, in my name, the goods of some _Tabriz_ merchants. On discovering the fraud, I resigned him into the hands of the officer, with full liberty to exact his dues; a licence, under which he begun immediately to cudgel the shoulders of the defaulter. The duties here are high, being five _reals_ on each load.

Some miles before we reached _Tasouj_, the lake begins to make an elliptical termination, and the road to turn off on a more Northern angle. We were eight hours in travelling the whole distance from _Ali Shah_, which we reckoned at thirty-two miles, on a bearing of N. 60 W. _Tasouj_, from the great extent of the ruined walls about it, appears once to have been a large place, but it is now reduced, by earthquakes, to the denomination of a village. There are remains of domed bazars and mosques, spread in every part of the place.

June 3. The distance from _Tasouj_ to _Khoi_ is called eight _fursungs_; we were however nine hours on the road, and calculated the journey at thirty-six miles. The general direction was N. 30 W. Our course for the first ten miles, to the foot of the range, (which encloses the plain and lake of _Shahee_) bore nearly West; when we suddenly turned to the North through the mountains; and, for ten miles more, wound among them through some very narrow defiles, and by some sharp ascents and descents, till we reached on the opposite side the plain of _Khoi_. Towards the lake the mountains are mostly of an argillaceous soil, but change into fine earth as they approach the plain of _Khoi_. In this direction they are green to their very summits, and their intervening vallies are covered with the finest pastures.

We had left _Tasouj_ by moonlight: we could not therefore discover with any accuracy the nature of the country, which we traversed in the first part of our route; though we discerned indistinctly groves of trees, and heard the falling cascade in the recesses of the vallies. The first view of the plain of _Khoi_, from the summit of the pass in the mountains, is sublime. The city and its more immediate territory are seen on the N. but separated from the rest of the plain by a border of green hills, which seem to divide the expanse into two parts. At the distance of two _fursungs_ from _Khoi_, we passed on the right the village of _Disajiz_, surrounded by fields of wheat and barley. On the left of the plain are some more villages; and one curious mound of red soil, crowned by a hillock of salt, besides several other white mounds, which are described as entirely of the same substance. We passed the small range of hills, and came all at once upon the more circumscribed plain of _Khoi_, which is opened by a seven-arched bridge, bordered on each side by rocks, and forming with the fine stream below a complete picture. The river is called the _Otour_, and flows from W. to E. falling into the _Arras_ or _Araxes_, about twelve _fursungs_ further to the Eastward.

The plain of _Khoi_ (in breadth from N. to S. five miles, and in length ten) was the richest tract that we had seen. It was covered with corn, broken only here and there by the foliage of enclosed gardens. Of these gardens we ventured to enter one, which was renowned all over the country for its beauty and fruitfulness. It stands on the left of the road about two miles from the walls of _Khoi_, and was made by HOSSEIN KHAN, Governor of the city in the time of AGA MOHAMED KHAN; but it has now become the property of the government. It consists of a fine alley of _chenar_ trees, which leads up to a pleasure-house, now falling into decay, built on the elevation of six terraces, from each of which falls a beautiful cascade, conducted by _kanauts_ from the neighbouring mountains. On the right and left is a wood of fruit trees of every sort and description, with a fine crop of grass at their roots. From the pleasure-house is seen, through the alleys of _chenars_, the whole territory of _Khoi_, one of the most lively landscapes that we found in Persia. The _chenar_ is really a delightful tree; its bole is of a fine white and smooth bark, and its foliage, which grows in a tuft at the summit, is of a bright green. Those in the garden had not attained their full growth. Their trunks are every where carved with the invocation of “_Ya Ali_;” proceeding probably from the ecstacies of those, who visit this little Persian paradise.

_Khoi_ is surrounded with a wall, and with towers of a different construction to any which we had remarked in other fortified towns of Persia. They are triangular in front, with a species of connecting work behind them. There are four gates, which are of stone, and very superior to most of those that I had noticed elsewhere. Within the walls are twenty mosques and six baths. There are said to be ten thousand houses, and a population of fifty thousand persons, of which the larger proportion are Armenians. The Mussulmans live in a parish or _Mahalé_ of their own. The territory is so extremely fertile, that _Khoi_, with the surrounding villages, pays annually to the public treasure the sum of one hundred thousand _tomauns_. _Khoi_ is much warmer, from its local situation, than _Tabriz_. Roses here were in full flower, whereas a little opening bud was reckoned a rarity at _Tabriz_; and probably in twenty days from the date of our visit, the plain lost its verdure, and assumed the beautiful gilding of a ripe corn-field.

Six _fursungs_ South from _Khoi_ is an equally large and populous town called _Salmas_; where, as I afterwards learnt at _Arz-roum_, are “sculptured rocks and many ruins.” My informer added, that one of the subjects represented two men, of whom one, looking over his left shoulder, pointed with his hand to a spot which the people of the neighbourhood affirm to contain a hidden treasure, though they admit that the deposit has escaped all research.

4th of June, 1809. The Prince had ordered four men to attend us into the Turkish territories; and as they did not reach us at _Khoi_, we should probably have awaited their arrival there, if I had not resisted such an arrangement, declaring that it would be better to advance one mile, than in our circumstances to remain idle for one single day. Accordingly, notwithstanding the pressing invitation of NEJEF KOOLI KHAN, the Governor, to stay the day with him, we departed for _Péréh_, a village two _fursungs_ from _Khoi_, which I call six miles, and in a bearing of N. 60 W. The morning was one of the loveliest in Spring, lightly covered with clouds, with a softness in the air which seemed to soothe every varied work of nature into tacit enjoyment of the bounty and munificence of their Almighty Creator. I shall ever recollect with thankfulness the delightful sensations which I experienced in passing the beautiful plain of _Khoi_; where every innocent sense received its gratification, and ripened into thoughts teeming with love and gratitude to their divine Maker.

Every thing was rich and beautiful: the mountains were green to their very summits; and their inequalites were here and there enriched by beds of wild flowers of the most lively and luxuriant hues. Scarcely two miles from _Khoi_ is a very large collection of houses and gardens, which is a _Mahalé_ or parish of the town, and is well inhabited. A stream from the mountains runs through it; and on the skirts to the N. are two pillars of brick, which are described either as the tomb or the cenotaph of a famous poet and learned _Mollah_ of _Tabriz_, called _Shemsé_. _Péréh_ is a pretty village, situated on the declivity of the hills, which gradually form the bases of the adjoining mountains; on the summit of one of these hills is an old square fort, now in ruins: and in its neighbourhood are two other villages called _Pesé_ and _Zaidé_. There are walnut-trees, willows, poplars, elms, and fruit-trees of every description in the highest perfection, with a great profusion of grass.

On this as well as on the other side of _Tabriz_, the peasants convey their loads on the backs of oxen, on which indeed they frequently ride themselves. At _Péréh_ I saw the first wheeled-carriage (excepting gun-carriages) that I had noticed in Persia. It was exactly similar to the Turkish _Araba_. Besides their plough, which I have already described, the Persians have the large rake, which serves as a harrow, and is fastened to a pole and drawn like a plough by yoked oxen: they have another implement of agriculture, which is certainly capable of much improvement. It is a pole fixt transversely on another to which the oxen are yoked; on each of these is a small wooden cylinder about half a foot long: and these insignificant things are dragged as a roller over the ground.

June the 5th. We went from _Péréh_ to _Zauviéh_ in six hours and a half, on a bearing of N. 50 W. which may be twenty-four miles. During the whole of the preceding evening it had rained, accompanied by thunder and lightning. Our ride, therefore, was rendered muddy. From _Péréh_ we entered some mountains of easy access; which, about ten miles before we reached _Zauviéh_, opened into a plain surrounded like a basin by mountains, on all sides gradually inclining to the centre. On entering the plain, high on the right on the declivity of the mountain, is the village of _Selawan_; and on the left a small village called _Khoré_; and on the turn of the road towards it, are two stone lions among some rude and ancient tomb-stones. The greater part of the population of the plain is composed of Armenians. To the West are very high mountains, the tops of which were covered with snow, and their roots, when we passed by, were nearly concealed by the heavy clouds that rested upon them.

The snow was melting, and frequently streams were pouring from the mountains. Yet the difference of the temperature of the air here, and that which we had experienced within a few days, was very sensible; and before sun-rise it was piercingly cold. The plain was cultivated in all parts. The whole of the soil, over which we passed, was of the finest brown mould; so that, excepting some summits of the mountains, the country was one universal carpet of verdure.

We met a large party of the _Elauts_ or wandering tribes, composed mostly of women and children, who were travelling to a fresh encampment. One of the women, who had the care of two children, had dismounted; and the extreme agility with which she got on her horse again, without any other aid than her own hands and feet, shewed how much she was accustomed to this sort of life.

We sent forwards our _Mehmandar_ to desire that tents might be pitched for us, because we had been advised to avoid the village on account of the plague, which sometimes visits these parts. Accordingly we found four tents pitched for us, two of horse-hair, (the real _Kara Khader_ of the _Eels_), and two white tents, rude enough indeed, but so delightfully situated in the plain, surrounded by corn fields, that we quite revelled in the exchange.

We had not long taken possession of our humble encampment, when a storm of thunder, lightning and hail overwhelmed us, in a manner which completely destroyed all the comfort of our interior arrangements. Hail-stones fell in numbers which entirely filled every corner of our tent, and so large, that measuring one I found it to be an inch in diameter, and so strongly congealed that they lay on the ground undiminished in size, until the sun once more broke out and dissolved them. The hills near us received a new covering of snow, shewing their summits as the storm rolled away, in sublime grandeur. The peasants told us, that this weather was very common to them. Although this was but an ungracious beginning to a pastoral life, yet I must own that to me it still had so many delights compared with the confinement of houses, that with all the present disadvantages I would willingly prefer it to a residence in the towns of Persia. Among its enjoyments is that of its freedom from vermin, from which (particularly fleas) we had hitherto suffered so much; not that the people are singularly dirty, but the creatures are the usual productions of the place and season. A Persian who was conversing with us in our tent, on seeing my servant beating a coat with a cane to clean it of the vermin which it had collected at the former stage, very gravely asked, “Pray what crime has that coat committed, that makes the _Frangee_ beat it so?”

June the 6th. The quantity of rain that had fallen during the course of the day had completely saturated the greatest part of our clothes and baggage, and materially increased the weight of the lading of our mules. Thanks to God, it did not rain in the night; and we slept soundly till about an hour before the break of day, when we quitted our black tents for the village of _Cara-ainéh_. The distance, on a bearing of N. 20 W. is called five _fursungs_; but though we were nearly six hours on the road, I shall not reckon it at more than eighteen miles, because we were delayed in our progress by the mud, which the rain and hail had created. We took a turn to the Eastward from our encampment, and came to a village called _Iekaftee_, on the borders of a mountain torrent swoln and rendered so rapid by the late storms, that two or three of our mules had nearly been carried away by its violence. On the right of the road (at the distance of five miles from our last station) is a spring dammed up, except at an aperture in one of its corners, through which a small quantity of water is permitted to ooze out, called in Turkish, _Ak-bolagh_, or “white spring:” and three miles further, and distant from the road two miles, on the left, is a collection of a few wretched hovels called _Kurkendéh_, surrounded by cultivated fields. About this spot the road was formerly so infested with the _Curdistan_ robbers, that it was never passed without danger: but since Prince ABBAS MIRZA has had the government of _Aderbigian_ in his hands, he has so completely expelled the freebooters from their haunts, that no district is now so safe. We traversed a pass formed by the gradual meeting of the roots of the mountains, and then entered an oval plain, extending, on a rough calculation, in length eight miles from N. to S, and three in breadth. The village of _Cara-ainéh_, our _Menzil_, is here immediately seen, and is easily marked by a square fort, which, rising from the midst of its miserable huts, appears a palace in comparison. This village is the chief of a _Mahalé_ of the same name, composed of about twenty-one villages, the principal of which are _Hiderlou_, _Nabekandi_, _Gelish Acha_, _Sedel_, _Zaiveh_, and _Ak-dezeh_. From _Cara-ainéh_ there is a road to _Van_, a distance of fifty miles, on a bearing of S. W.

We had now reached the dregs of Persia. Beyond _Khoi_ and _Péréh_ both the habitations and the people bore an appearance of misery, indicative of a neglected country. This deterioration is probably inseparable from the borders of two states, which are ill-defined as to territory and actual property. None but the _Ket Khoda_ had a decent coat, and all the rest were in tatters and beggary.

The _Thaubet_ of _Cara-ainéh_ had been appointed to his government only the day before our arrival, an excuse which he alleged for his inability to satisfy us in several of our inquiries. His appearance, indeed, bespoke the truth of his apology; for he was dressed from head to foot in new clothes, new cap, new coat, new slippers; doubtless to impress his peasantry with a sense of his superiority. We had rain all the day, and almost incessant thunder and lightning. The tract over which we passed, though generally of admirable soil, was for the greater part waste. We saw, however, immense flocks, some perhaps of one thousand sheep, grazing in the fat pastures on the declivities and in the recesses of the mountains; and large herds also of mares with their foals. These were the property of the _Elauts_: the mares belonging to the King are kept in _Mazanderan_, which is said to afford the finest pasture of his dominions. Their foals are thence distributed to the troops as they may be wanted. The Guardian or Controller of these Royal herds is an officer of considerable consequence, and is selected always from men of rank and importance in the state. He is called _Elkhee-chee_ or Master of the Mares, and resides at _Asterabad_, where he holds his office, registering every foal as it falls. He has subordinate agents, entrusted severally with the charge of twenty mares, and with the choice of their pastures, besides the inferior grooms who tend the animals daily. The foals are not backed until they have completed their third year.

7th. The morning was darkened by clouds which covered the whole sky; the thickest resting on the tops of the mountains, and extending themselves in some parts nearly to the bases. We quitted our wretched habitation at _Cara-ainéh_, to pace a miserable road; the bottom of which, always wet and deep, was rendered still more impracticable by a shower of rain that overtook us, soon after we had quitted the village. Almost at the extremity of the plain is a swamp; on the surface of the waters of which were innumerable flocks of ducks and other wild-fowl. We noticed two cranes stepping away before us at a great pace, and hiding their legs from us by letting fall their tails. The soil was rich almost beyond calculation, and afforded the finest pastures. We crossed the village of _Ak-dezeh_, and then leaving the plain, wound through the vallies which were formed by the Western mountains. The whole country was watered by numerous torrents; on the borders of one we spread as our breakfast, the scanty remains of our yesterday’s meal; which, in such a spot however, would have been a real treat to the lovers of romance. The scene indeed, alone, consoled us for our bad fare at _Cara-ainéh_. A stupendous mass of rock rose perpendicularly over our heads; and at our feet foamed and roared the torrent, while the whole view was enriched by the verdure of the distant landscape, and enlivened by the chirping of innumerable birds. About twelve miles from _Cara-ainéh_ are several hills; the declivities of which are strewed with large masses of black rock, evidently from their weight and their calcined appearance, full of metal. The whole seems to be volcanic matter.

After quitting these hills we came into the plain, at the extremity of which is situated _Agajik_, a miserable Armenian village, about the same size as our former stage. We were six hours and a half in travelling the distance, twenty-two miles, on a bearing of N. 20 W. In the centre of the plain a caravan, from _Oroumi_, was grazing its mules: the driver of it told us, that he had been eight days on the journey, at the rate of four _agatch_ a day, making a total of about one hundred miles. Here the distances are measured by the _agatch_, which corresponds exactly to the _sahat_ or hour. The village consisted of huts, surrounding an old square fort on a hill. Our lodging was a covered building, in the roof of which were two small holes to admit light; and in the interior of which a square of twenty feet was parted off by a wall three feet high, for the residence of the master, while the remainder was reserved for his cattle. The costume of the people was changing fast; and the black sheep-skin cap of Persia was scarcely seen.

The day was overspread with clouds till near sun-set, when it cleared away a little to the Northward, and shewed us the sublime and venerable mountain of _Ararat_. It bore N. 10 E. of our station, and presented a stupendous mass to our view. The Persians told me that it was eight hours distance from us; and added many a story of its wonders. Such as--that no one, who attempted to ascend it, ever returned; and that one hundred men who had been sent from _Arz-roum_ by the _Pacha_, to effect the undertaking, all died. The Armenian priest assured me, with a very grave face, that the ark was still there. There is a smaller mountain on the same range, bearing N. 30 E. which is called by the Turks, _Cochuk Agri-dagh_, as the larger _Ararat_ is called _Agri-dagh_. _Ararat_ is the _Macis_ of the Armenians. The sources of the _Euphrates_ are twelve hours from _Agajik_, in a direction of N. 50 W. by the peasant’s pointing. The Armenians told me that they had a _Zeeauret_, or place of devotion, at the sources called _Wes Kionk_.

8th. We left _Agajik_ with five men, who, according to the custom, accompanied us out of their frontier into the Turkish territory. At about two miles and a half from _Agajik_ is another Armenian village, called _Kilsé_, from the ruins of a church (_Ecclesia_), which forms a conspicuous object among its mean huts, being well-built with a fine white stone, with arched doors and windows. Even in its ruins, however, the present poor inhabitants still contrive to keep up a place of worship within the interior.

About three miles and a half N. 30 W. from _Agajik_, are the boundaries of the Persian and Turkish territories marked by a ruined tower, situated in the centre of a valley.

_Drawn by James Morier Esq^r._
_Published by Mess^{rs}. Longman, Hurst, Rees, Orme & Brown,
Paternoster Row, May 1, 1811._]

As we were feeding our horses, the person whom we had sent to _Bayazid_ (to intimate our approach to the locum-tenens of IBRAHIM PACHA, who was himself on an excursion against the _Courds_) returned, and told us that the Acting-governor would not receive us into the city, nor give us a passage near it; alleging as a reason, that his master the _Pacha_ had left strict orders, that during his absence no strangers, and particularly no Persians, should be admitted. This unexpected news staggered us at first, but at length we determined to send one of the _Mirza’s_ own men to exert the influence of his master’s station in our favour. We proceeded, following our messenger: the road took a turn to N. 30 E. and shewed us once again in a much larger exposure than before the stupendous _Ararat_. It is indeed a sublime and almost terrific object. It rises from an immense variety of lands; and is covered with snow, and almost always surrounded with clouds.

We stopt at a small Armenian village called _Kerdek_, (on the left of the road, one _fursung_ from _Bayazid_,) to await the return of our second messenger. We did not tarry long, when he appeared, though only to confirm the report of his predecessor. The Turks would not suffer him even alone to enter the city; for as soon as he approached, they fired a musket or two, to convince him that their resistance would not be confined to threats; and when he endeavoured to come to a parley, they answered him only with ill language and abuse. We determined therefore immediately upon taking a circuit to avoid _Bayazid_, and seeking IBRAHIM PACHA himself, from whom we expected a handsome reception; as the Persians represented him to me as a vassal of their Prince ABBAS MIRZA, fearing Him rather than his own sovereign. Our road to day averaged N. 10 W. a distance of ten miles; the same bearing indeed may be extended to _Bayazid_, on a further distance of four miles. _Bayazid_, as I learned in its neighbourhood, is situated close at the foot of Mount _Ararat_: it is peopled principally by Armenians. On a hill about it, is a castle, which by its defenders is said to be strong; they are very jealous however of the curiosity of a Persian.

9th. Three men, whom we anxiously expected from Prince ABBAS MIRZA to accompany us to _Constantinople_, joined us on the evening of the 8th; and so far therefore our delay at this miserable village was convenient. We gave them just time to feed their horses; and then, about an hour before sun-set, resumed our march to take up our quarters for the night on the bank of a little running stream; the rich pastures, through which the waters flowed, refreshed our cattle, but we ourselves were obliged to pass the night in the open field with a heavy dew falling, yet, thank God, with a fine clear sky. During the course of the night a Turk arrived from _Bayazid_ to say, that he was sent by the _Kiayah_ to be our _Mehmandar_ to the presence of his master; adding, indeed, that the Vice-Governor regretted the misunderstanding on which he had acted, for he had been told that we were followed by a large body of horsemen. On further questioning the Turk we found, that the wife of IBRAHIM PACHA (hearing that there was an _Elchee_, an Embassador, without the town, and that admittance had been refused to him) made loud remonstrances to the _Kiayah_ on the impropriety of his conduct, and interceded so far in our behalf that he sent us these excuses. Though we were ill satisfied with the conduct of this person, we thought it better not to reject the attendance of the officer whom he had deputed to escort us, as we were among a wild and unmanageable people.

We travelled an hour and a half, in one of the clearest and most beautiful mornings that the heavens ever produced; and passing on our left the two villages of _Dizzéh_ and _Kizzil Dizzéh_, we came to an opening of a small plain covered with the black tents and cattle of the _Elauts_. Here also we had a view of Mount _Ararat_; the clouds no longer rested on its summit, but circled round it below. We went to the largest tent in the plain, and there enjoyed an opportunity of learning that the hospitality of these people is not exaggerated. As soon as it was announced at the tent that strangers were coming, every thing was in motion: some carried our horses to the best pastures, others spread carpets for us, one was dispatched to the flock to bring a fat lamb, the women immediately made preparation for cooking, and we had not sat long before two large dishes of stewed lamb, with several basins of _yaourt_, were placed before us. The senior of the tribe, an old man (by his own account indeed more than eighty-five years of age) dressed in his best clothes, came out to us, and welcomed us to his tent with such kindness, yet with such respect, that his sincerity could not be mistaken. He was still full of activity and fire, although he had lost all his teeth, and his beard was as white as the snow on the venerable mountain near his tent. The simplicity of his manners and the interesting scenery around reminded me, in the strongest colours of the life of the patriarchs: and more immediately of Him whose history is inseparable from the mountains of _Ararat_. Nothing indeed could accord better with the spot than the figure of our ancient host. His people were a part of the tribe of _Jelalee_, and their principal seat was _Erivan_; but they ranged through the country:

And pastured on from verdant stage to stage,
Where fields and fountains fresh could best engage.
Toil was not then: of nothing took they heed
But with wild beasts the sylvan war to wage,
And o’er vast plains their herds and flocks to feed;
Blest sons of nature they! true golden age indeed.

_Castle of Indolence_, xxxvii.

We quitted our hospitable friends, (who appeared to be almost more grateful for our visit than we for their kindness), and passed along the plain. Mount _Ararat_ bore N. 40 E. and extended itself completely to our view. Its N. W. ascent is not so rapid as its S. E. and I should conceive that in this quarter it might be possible to ascend it. In six hours and a half, after leaving our last encampment, we reached _Diadin_. It is a large village with a fort and towers; under which, in a deep channel of perpendicular rock, runs the eastern _Euphrates_, there a shallow stream about twenty feet in breadth. It rises about four _agatch_ or twelve miles from _Diadin_, on a bearing of S. 50 W. by the direction of a man’s hand; and in the country is called the _Frat_; the name assumed at _Arz-roum_, by the Western stream.

At _Diadin_ we were not permitted to go near their miserable castle. The houses of the place are built of mud and stones, and the rooms are calculated to lodge the animals as well as the family. A small compartment only is reserved for the master; and in general the rest of the space is left for his cattle. We did not, indeed, enter their habitations, for every door was shut against us; and when, by great management, we had secured shelter for ourselves, our people, and our cattle, we found equal difficulty in procuring food. ABDULLA PACHA, a rebel _Courd_, with whom IBRAHIM PACHA was at open war, had in fact carried away all the flocks, and destroyed all the crops of this village. We could not therefore expect an easy supply of corn for our horses; but after much intreaty a little was produced, for which indeed we paid an amazing price. A piece of barley bread was delivered to each man; and the masters, by a very marked favour, were supplied with a mess of eggs and a basin of _yaourt_.

The houses for the _Conaks_ or reception of strangers, here as in all other places in Turkey were regularly defined; but when the _Mirza_ and I were entering that appropriated to ourselves, we were received at the door by a woman, who, with her face totally uncovered, boldly bad defiance to the _Conak-chee_, and (with the most threatening looks, and with all the volubility of her sex,) swore that nobody should enter her dwelling. However, by a little negociation we pacified our hostess, and were at length admitted into her stable, where we spread our carpets and composed ourselves to sleep. The women here barely cover their faces; and, as we afterwards learnt, are notorious for depravity: they appear very healthy. The men are as wild as savages, and seem to be under no law. Independently of their own immediate distresses, one of the reasons for their inhospitality to Persians is very natural; several Embassadors had been sent to _Constantinople_, and since that time every traveller, who had two or three attendants, assumed the same dignity. The discovery of the fraud has necessarily roused the caution of the Turks.

10th. We were nine hours on the road to _Youngali_, called nine _agatch_, and which I calculated at thirty-two miles on a bearing of N. 65 W. The _Euphrates_ accompanied us all the way through a country of grass, but of little cultivation. Four miles after leaving _Diadin_ we passed the village of _Jugan_, about a mile and a half on our left: then four miles further, still on the left and on the other bank of the _Euphrates_, _Utch Klissé_. Here a high and snow-covered mountain called _Kussé Dagh_ appears in view; and (extending to the S. and W.) the range of _Ala-Dagh_. In the village is an Armenian Church, a very respectable looking building, much resembling an European structure. It has two wings with a shelving roof, and is covered by a small dome built of stone, apparently not in much decay.

At the termination of that branch of the mountain near which _Utch Klissé_ stands, there is a stone bridge thrown over the _Euphrates_. We continued by the bank of the river, which winds from E. to W. creating verdure on each side as it flows. We passed through a village now in ruins called _Alakou_; and on the slope of the hill (three miles on the left of the road) that of _Comoulja_; another called _Belasou_, is close on the banks of the river; and, about eight miles further, having passed the miserable huts at _Cadi Kieu_, we reached after a very sultry ride, our _Conak_ at _Youngali_. All these villages are in the _Mahalé_ of _Alashgerd_.

When we had been about an hour on our road, I missed a small carpet from my baggage, and sent back therefore my servant to reclaim it from our host at _Diadin_. From the looks which he cast at our goods, I had frequently suspected his honesty, but I might have spared my suspicions and my trouble; for I received nothing but oaths. Near to _Utch Klissé_, we met the battering train of IBRAHIM PACHA, which consisted of two field pieces, returning from the siege of _Turpa Caléh_, the castle of TIMUR BEG, who had revolted from his authority. We learned that after a siege of five months, in which the _Pacha_ had fired his guns one hundred and fifty times at the town and castle, he had succeeded in killing one fowl and one dog.

IBRAHIM PACHA, who was at another village three miles from _Youngali_, sent his _Haznadar_ or treasurer to escort us to our lodging. The misery here was even greater than that of the preceding day. No corn for our horses, nor even grass without hard blows. The whole of the country was in a state of absolute devastation from the incursions of the _Courds_; and our course presented nothing but difficulties, for IBRAHIM PACHA was at war with all the country round. He professed indeed to respect the _firman_ of ABBAS MIRZA, and when we sent him that with which we had been furnished, he immediately carried it to his head, saying that he was the Princes servant in all things; and that there was nothing which he would not willingly do to serve him. We never fared worse, however, than at this village. The people that surrounded us bore the looks of savages, and their general behaviour corresponded with their appearance.

To the South of _Youngali_, as I was told at the place, lies _Van_; and to the S. W. the large _Mahalé_ of _Kensus_.

11th. We left _Youngali_, dissatisfied with our host: the Persians indeed were miserable with the scanty hospitality which they received at his village. When we were left by the two officers, who escorted us to their master’s frontier, we were advised not to go near _Turpa Caléh_, as we should undoubtedly be molested. Yet the situation, in which this war of the rival chiefs had placed us, was so difficult, that we incurred equal hazard either in passing the castle of TIMUR BEG, without offering our respects, or in venturing near it after coming from the domains of his enemy. We determined therefore to state our story simply, and throw ourselves on his hospitality. We crossed a most beautiful plain covered with villages, and watered by numerous streams. We forded three considerable torrents, which poured from the N. mountains, and, swoln by the melting snows, threw themselves into the _Euphrates_, which was flowing at the Southern extremity of the plain from E. to W. Three miles from _Youngali_ we came to _Cara-Klissé_, a large village peopled by _Courds_ and _Armenians_; and then made a circuit to the N. to avoid a swampy road in the centre of the plain. We passed through several villages, the inhabitants of which seeing the numbers of our company mistook us for one of the fighting parties, and crowded on the tops of their houses at our approach. Of these places, the principal were named _Datté Tapé_, _Kesick_, and _Arnat_.

_Turpa Caléh_ is situated N. 60 W. from _Youngali_, on a distance of about fifteen miles or four hours. It is a larger place than any that we had seen since _Khoi_. The town is scattered on the slope of a conical hill, on the top of which is a castle. This the Turks deem impregnable, and with justice, if the failure of the late siege be a criterion, though the fort seems in every part accessible to cannon. The high mountain of _Kussé Dagh_ overlooks the town and attracts continual clouds over it. We proceeded warily; and, about a mile before we reached the place, halted and sent forwards a man to reconnoitre the appearance and dispositions of the people, and to report on the expediency of our advance. He returned with the intelligence that we had nothing to fear; and we directed our course therefore to the _Conac_ or dwelling of the _Kiayah_, the chief officer of TIMUR BEG. Here we dismounted, and were introduced immediately into a dark room, where twenty torpid Turks were indulging themselves in the quiet delights of smoking. The _Kiayah_ sat in the corner, but rose when the _Mirza_ entered; and, having said the usual “_Khosh gueldin_” (you are welcome,) closed his lips and left his guest to display the compliments and insinuative flattery so natural to his nation. The loquaciousness and vivacity of the Persian formed an inimitable contrast with the dull and heavy laconism of the Turk.