Chapter M: JOUANNIN and his companion indeed, by all the accounts which I (3)

When we had smoked and drunk coffee, a man came to inform us that TIMUR BEG was ready to receive us. The _Mirza_ and I immediately proceeded, leaving the rest of our party with the _Kiayah_. We ascended to the castle by a steep and difficult path, and entered it by a large iron door. We were introduced into a spacious room at the summit. The Chief (attended by all his principal warriors gravely seated around) occupied a window commanding an extensive view of the country over which we had travelled, and more particularly the district of his rival, the _Pacha_. When we also were seated, and the usual compliments had passed, the _Mirza_ begun a prepared speech unfolding our condition, announcing that we threw ourselves at his mercy, asking the rights of hospitality from him, and intermixing throughout some very severe invective against his enemy the _Pacha_. The mode succeeded: and TIMUR BEG instantly replied, that we had nothing to fear; that under his protection we were safe; that our necessities should be supplied, and that his officers should receive orders to treat us with distinction and kindness at a neighbouring village; for he hoped, as the only favour that he required of us, that we would not sojourn in his castle for that night.

When these preliminaries were settled, I had time to observe that there was much to admire in our host. He was about forty years of age, with a singularly open and manly countenance, and with manners the most graceful and dignified. He related his own history and his differences with IBRAHIM PACHA in language so simple, yet so expressive, that we acquired a deep interest in his fate; particularly, when he expatiated on the _Pacha’s_ tyranny and inordinate rapaciousness, and on the misery in which his exactions had involved all the peasantry of the district. During the course however of his conversation with the _Mirza_, I remarked one of his observations which was very characteristic of a semi-barbarous society. He inquired who I was? and being informed that I was of the _Sect of Isau_ (JESUS), or, in other words, a Christian, he continued (with a look of pity, having observed that I had refused a pipe), “These fellows, I hear, have neither pipes nor tobacco in their country: _haivan dar_, they are beasts:” as if to say, assuming that we did not possess the knowledge or the means of their favourite enjoyment, “how far inferior to us must those be who cannot smoke.”

Our host kept strictly to his word: we were sent forwards four miles further to the promised village of _Molah Suleiman_, escorted by two of his officers; and supplied with all that the place could afford, a sheep, fowls, and rice for ourselves, and corn for our horses.

12th. We passed over a mountainous tract of country from _Molah Suleiman_ to _Deli-baba_, a distance which we travelled in ten hours, and which I reckoned at thirty-five miles, on a bearing of N. 30 W. as well as the intricacies of the turns would permit me to observe. Before we entered the mountains, (when we had travelled about three miles, and just above the little village of _Zadiéh_,) I had the parting view of Mount _Ararat_, which bore from us N. 80 E. We were told that the road was much infested by the _Courds_, particularly at a pass in the mountains called _Gerdina_, and we placed ourselves therefore in a posture of defence. But we traversed the whole extent without seeing a human being, till we reached _Dahar_, a village of _Courds_ in the mountains twenty miles from _Molah Suleiman_. We then proceeded winding in a variety of directions, with a scorching sun over our heads, to the entrance of a pass which, through two stupendous rocks, leads into the plain of _Deli-baba_. This pass might be made an admirable military position, and in its present state is a most picturesque object. A stream from the mountains runs through it: on the left is a rock three hundred feet perpendicular, and on the other side is another of less height, but pierced with three holes, as if it were by the hand of man.

On entering the plain we saw numbers of peasants with their _arabahs_ or carts. They told us they had fled from their village in the fear of ABDULLA AGA, who, from his station near _Erivan_, makes predatory excursions all over the country. They added that _Deli-baba_ was totally depopulated; however we did not believe them, and proceeded. We found indeed a very bad reception, for the inhabitants mistook us for enemies, collected together at our approach, refused us admittance, and fired several muskets at us. At length the chief of the village came out to meet us, and we agreed to establish ourselves at a distance, feed our cattle, and depart. The fear of ABDULLA AGA created such a distrust, that we were avoided by every one whom we met; and even when any permitted us to approach, all our assurances were insufficient to inspire them with confidence. Although we offered great prices for the necessaries of our supply, the people would hardly sell a single article; and the few pieces of bread and eggs which formed our meal at _Deli-baba_ were not procured without the greatest difficulty.

Although the country is in a terrible state of disturbance, caravans travel freely on the road. We met a large one which had been eight days from _Arz-roum_. Our mule-driver happened to kill a serpent; he cut it immediately in two pieces, and threw the parts on different sides, saying, “It is a lucky sign, our enemies will not overcome us.”

The soil over which we passed was admirably rich, and the most delightful spring reigned on the tops of the mountains, where we culled nosegays of a thousand hues; yet the snow lay in several places, and covered the fetlocks of our horses, while close to it rose every flower.

13th. We quitted the village of _Deli-baba_ early in the morning, having passed a night full of anxiety and watchfulness in the open fields; as we were told that we were not safe, and might probably be attacked, though nothing, thank God, disturbed us. We proceeded on a bearing of West to _Amra Kieu_, a village prettily situated at the utmost extremity of a plain, and surrounded by some trees, (in our later course a very scarce object) the willow and the plane. We crossed a beautiful country cultivated in most parts, and considering the extreme misery of the inhabitants themselves, looking very prosperous. The spring was here in its first burst, and the corn was scarcely a span high: the fields were no longer watered by dikes as in Persia, for the nature of the seasons and of the country render unnecessary any artificial means of irrigation. The hills to the Northward of the plain, through which we passed, rise in a gentle acclivity, and to our view displayed habitations and culture; but as we met no person on the road, I could not learn the names of the villages in various parts. At two hours, (seven miles,) from _Deli-baba_, and about a mile from the road, is _Batman Kieu_, situated in the bosom of a valley delightfully watered and cultivated. The houses of _Amra Kieu_, our resting place, are built with the fir tree, and their roofs are formed by rafters of wood, geometrically placed, which are afterwards covered with earth, and constitute a strong dome. This is a better construction than any that we had lately observed. Small two-wheeled carts, to which oxen are yoked, are used here by the peasantry. The sheep are very fine, with large tails and good wool.

14th. We went from _Amra Kieu_, due West towards _Alwar_, ten miles. Three miles after quitting _Amra Kieu_, we came to the banks of the _Araxes_; which enters the plain from the mountains near _Yaghan_, a large village situated about three miles from the road. The stream flows here from N. 65 E. to S. 30 W. It takes its rise in the _Mahalé_ of _Khunus_; and where it issues from the ground is called _Bin Gieul_, or a thousand springs. In its course it closely follows the mountains which we had left at the extremity of the plain. Little irrigation is drawn from it through the neighbouring territory. We crossed it over a very well-built stone bridge of seven arches; by the measurement of which the river was about one hundred and sixty paces in breadth. Just at this point a stream flows into it from the Westward, taking its course close to _Hassan Caléh_. Immediately on passing the bridge we came to a village called _Kupré Kieu_, and then continued on a fine road, and through a delightful plain strewed with villages, distant in general two or three miles from each other. The principal of these are _Arsunjéh_, on the left, and _Gumec_ and _Miagen_, on the right of the road. All the plain was well cultivated; and the peasants were here sowing their corn. We passed by _Hassan Caléh_, a large town situated around a hill; on the summit is an old fortification, the curious walls of which are chequered with the embrasures of former times. We crossed the stream by the town, over a bridge of two arches. Close to the bridge is a bath built over a spring, the heat of which is almost that of scalding water: yet when we looked in, several men were up to their chins in it. The basin is about thirty feet in diameter, and is enclosed by an old structure. Several other springs of the same temperature adjoin it.

We had procured a man from the Governor (_Cazi_) of _Hassan Caléh_, to conduct us to _Alwar_, but the _Aga_ of that place positively refused to admit us or to lodge us, and added in direct terms that he did not care for _Cazi_, _Pacha_, or any one else, and that we might go any where we chose; if at least we did not disturb Him. After vollies of abuse on both sides, we were content as before to take up our quarters in the open fields, under the shade of a tree, that luckily was situated near the village, and saved us from an ardent sun. Here we saw geese for the first time.

Whilst seated under the tree, vowing vengeance on the _Aga_ of _Alwar_, (having dispatched a man to the Governor of _Arz-roum_ to state our case), we were visited by a respectable, yet sly-looking Turk, who came quietly and settled himself on our carpet. He begun by telling us that he was a _yoljee_ (a traveller) like ourselves; and inquired what made us so angry. We broke out into every species of invective against the _Aga_ of the village, who had obliged us to remain like our horses and mules, under a tree, refusing us the most common offices of hospitality; and added, that we had in consequence sent a messenger to the Governor of _Arz-roum_ to complain of the affront, hoping at the same time that the inhospitable _Aga_ would either lose his head, or at least get a severe bastinado. We had some suspicion that the personage to whom we were talking was the very _Aga_ himself, and were therefore less scrupulous in our abuse. This suspicion proved true: our visitor begun by taking the _Aga’s_ part, saying that the country was in a great state of alarm, and that the people feared to receive into their towns so many strangers, and particularly Persians, and finished in his own person by intreating us not to write to the Governor of _Arz-roum_. He went away accordingly in some fright, and allowed us to get provisions from his village, a permission which he had not granted before.

We spent the night, however, in the open air, and in the fear of rain: much, indeed, was falling on all sides of us with thunder and lightning.

CHAP. XVII.

ARZ-ROUM TO AMASIA.

ARZ-ROUM: DESCRIPTION OF THE CITY; ANCIENT STATE: POPULATION: CLIMATE: VISIT TO THE GOVERNOR; ENTERTAINMENT; TURKISH DISHES--DEPARTURE--BATHS OF ILIJA: THE DELHIS--THE EUPHRATES--BUILDINGS AT MAMAKHATOUN--TRADITION OF THEIR ERECTION--CHIFLIK: CULTIVATION--TARTARS ON THE ROAD FROM CONSTANTINOPLE--CARAJA: DINNER--PERSIAN FROM PARIS--STORM--GRANDEUR OF THE APPROACH TO CARA-HISSAR--DELAY IN THE TOWN--THE RIVER KELKI IRMAC, THE ANCIENT LYCUS--KULEY-HISSAR--DIFFERENCE OF PROPERTY IN TURKEY AND IN PERSIA--EXCAVATED ROCK--HISTORY OF A BOSNIAN STRANGER--COUNTRY ROUND NIKSAR, THE ANCIENT NEOCÆSAREA--ENTRANCE INTO TOCAT: DESCRIPTION; TRADE--TURKHAL--STATION OF GUARDS--APPROACHES TO AMASIA.

1809, June 15th. We arrived at _Arz-roum_, after riding fifteen miles on a bearing of W. over a chalky road. The city presents itself in a very picturesque manner; its old minarets and decayed turrets, rising abruptly to the view. Our baggage was carried to the Custom-house, notwithstanding all our remonstrances and claims of privilege. The caution of the Turks, though in this instance unnecessary, was not unjustifiable, for a former Persian Embassador had concealed merchants in his suite, who, under his name, passed large quantities of fine goods.

_Arz-roum_ is built on a rising ground: on the highest part is the castle, surrounded by a double wall of stone, which is chequered at the top by embrasures, and strengthened here and there by projections in the fashion of bastions, with openings fit for the reception of cannon. It has four gates, which are covered with plates of iron. The whole is well-built, and to me does not appear the work of Mussulmans. A ditch runs by it to the S. W.; near it is a tannery; and further on is a row of blacksmiths’ forges, which seemed in good employ. In this direction (N. E. of the town) is the Custom-house, a spacious building. The _Pacha’s_ residence has a large gate opening into a court-yard. The houses are in general built of stone, with rafters of wood, and terraced. Grass grows on their tops, and sheep and calves feed there; so that, when seen from an eminence, the roofs of the houses can hardly be distinguished from the plain at their foundation. I walked through most of the _bazars_; few are domed, the rest are terraced, like the dwellings, but affording a common road for foot-passengers, who ascend by a public flight of steps. Wherever a street intervenes, a bridge is thrown over, and the line continues uninterrupted. The shops in the _bazars_ are well stocked, and the place exhibits an appearance of much industry. The streets are mostly paved; but, as in Turkey, in that manner which is more calculated to break the passenger’s neck than to ease his feet. There are sixteen baths, and one hundred mosques; several of the latter are creditable buildings, the domes of which are covered with lead, and ornamented with gilt balls and crescents.

This is the present state of _Arz-roum_; its remains prove that it must have been still more considerable. Every thing attests the antiquity of the place; the inhabitants indeed date the foundation from the time of NOAH, and very zealously swear, that some of their present structures were contemporary with the Patriarch: with less hazard of truth, or rather with much appearance of probability, they aver that others were the work of the _Giaours_, or Infidels. One in particular is attributed to the latter origin; it consists of an arched gateway, curiously worked all in strong stone, situated N. W. in the castle, and close to a decayed minaret of ancient structure. Yet many of the older fabrics appear by the true Moresque arch, to be certainly of Saracenic origin; and many of the remains of mosques resemble those buildings in Persia, with curious bricks, and lacquered tiles, which were raised in the first ages of Mahomedanism. In all those at _Arz-roum_, I observed a round tower, with a very shelving roof, covered all over with bricks. There are still erect several minarets, obviously works of the early Mussulmans. Near the Eastern gate of the castle are two of brick and tile, and a gate (with a Saracenic arch and a _Cufic_ inscription) and many strong stone buildings around, the remains of the fine portico of a mosque. To the East of the town is an old tower of brick, the highest building in _Arz-roum_, which is used as a look-out-house, and serves as the tower of the _Janizaries_ at _Constantinople_, or that of _Galata_. There is a clock at the summit, which strikes the hours with sufficient regularity.

In _Arz-roum_ there are from four to five thousand families of the Armenian, and about one hundred of the Greek persuasion: the former have two churches, the latter one. There are perhaps one thousand Persians who live in a _Caravanserai_, and manage by caravans the trade of their own country. _Trebisond_ is the port on the Black Sea, to which the commerce of _Constantinople_ is conveyed. The Turkish inhabitants of _Arz-roum_ are fifty thousand families. This amount of the population I give from the authority of a well-informed Armenian; but as all such details in a country so ill-regulated are exceedingly suspicious, I have already taken the liberty to deduct more than one-third from the number of Turkish families in the original estimate. But the reduced statement still leaves in _Arz-roum_, at the rate of five persons in a family, a total of two hundred and fifty thousand persons, besides Armenians.

The climate of _Arz-roum_ is very changeable, and must in winter be piercingly cold. It rained throughout the whole of the 19th, but the clouds dispersed on the morrow, and discovered the adjacent hills overspread with snow. The high lands which arise from the plain around, attract constant thunder-storms; the elevation, indeed, of the whole region from the base of the sea is itself very considerable, and is sufficient to account for the cold.

On the 17th we visited the Governor. He treated us with the usual civilities of the occasion in Turkey, pipes, coffees, sweetmeats and sherbet, for which we paid dearly by the numerous _backshishes_ or vails that are given in such circumstances. EMIN AGA, who then filled the station and was _Musselim_ of the town, was also _Gumruckchee_ or Collector of the Customs, an office which in Persia is confined to very inferior persons, and which therefore drew upon the Commandant of _Arz-roum_, who unluckily bore it, the laughter and contempt of the Persians. Yet when he invited us all to dinner, they were not the less anxious to make their best appearance before him. Throughout the day, the Persian Envoy was occupied with the arrangement of his clothes; he consulted every one of his servants on the suit which might become him best, and at length fixed on a fine gold-brocade coat.

On the 20th we went accordingly to the entertainment. After smoking and drinking coffee, the _Aga_ called for dinner. Water for the preliminary ablution was first brought, when I observed that the Turks washed both their hands, and the Persians the right only. The servants who brought the basin and ewer were attended by two others: one who spread a towel on the knees, and another who was ready to take it away, and replace it by a second for the hands. After this an octagonal stool two feet and a half high was placed in a corner of the sopha, on which was put a large round pewter tray carved all over in various fashions. On this were placed piles of bread all around, onions, endive, and basins of _yaourt_, milk, and plates of cheese, with two wooden spoons at intervals for the guests. When all was ready our host said, “_booyouroun_,” or “you are served,” and we approached the table. When seated each guest was attended by a page, who threw a large napkin with gold-embroidered borders over each shoulder, and arranged another on our knees; an apparatus not unlike that of the preliminary service of shaving. A small cloth was placed in the centre of the tray, on which stood the dish. First, in a glass vase, came a species of sweet soup which was not unpalatable; then a lamb roasted, stuffed with rice and almonds; then stewed pears, then a stew of mutton, then sweet jelly; in short, there was a succession of at least one hundred dishes, consisting generally of an intermediate sweet article between the meats, besides pastry to each. The master of the entertainment said, “_Booyouroun_,” when it was brought in, and “_Calder_,” or “take away,” when we had eat two or three mouthfuls, and scarce any other words but these two were heard during the whole feast. Servants attended behind each guest, with a vase of lemonade or sherbet. The dishes were not, in general, badly cooked, although much coarser than those of Persia. The whole was closed by an immense _pillau_. The principal dishes were the _yakné_, which resembles our Irish stew; the _dolmah_, meat balls enclosed in vine leaves; the _kabob_, which is roast meat; the _chorbah_, or soup; the _baklavah_, a cake of honey, paste, and other sweet ingredients; the _lokmah_, a light paste puff; and the _pillau_, which is nothing but rice intermixed now and then with plums, almonds, and always well peppered and spiced. When all was over we washed our hands with soap and hot water, smoked, drank coffee, and went away, and were dunned as usual for _backshishes_ on departing.

A strange character joined us at _Arz-roum_; he was a native of _Bosnia_, and took the opportunity of our escort to reach _Constantinople_. He seemed to fear the wild inhabitants of the country through which we had to pass, and wore accordingly a coat of mail under his clothes, and a burnished helmet on his head, and was armed with two heavy rifle guns, a pair of pistols, a long _kunjur_, and a sword, besides a variety of powder flasks, &c. which, altogether, made him weigh thirty stone.

On the 21st we left _Arz-roum_, and proceeded across the plain to _Ilija_, a distance of five miles only, on a bearing of N. 80 West. The plain is covered with villages: I counted thirty on one part, and the cultivation is proportioned to the population. The season was advancing: in some places the corn was a foot from the ground, and there was besides much fine pasture.

Close to the village we crossed a bridge over a nice stream, there called the _Kara Sou_, which flows in this quarter from E. to W. and according to the information which I procured on this spot, finally flows into the _Euphrates_. On comparing, however, my authorities and my observations, I suspect that it is itself larger than its confluent stream, and deserves therefore to be considered as the primary river. Its sources are in the mountains at _Suzdan_, about nine miles from _Arz-roum_; and it meets another river at _Serchembéh_. The sources of the _Tigris_ are said to be at a village called _Nehel_, near _Gever_, a place ten _fursungs_ from _Oroumi_.

At _Ilija_ are warm springs, two of which are enclosed within walls, for the separate use of men and women. Large parties had collected from _Arz-roum_ to bathe here, and had pitched their tents among the rocks to pass the night. During the night an alarm was given in the village, that a number of _Delhis_ (who have been called the “_Enfans perdus_” of the Turkish army,) had taken up their quarters among us, and that every one must in consequence look to his own property. Perhaps there were not two hundred of these desperadoes, yet they had given more trouble to the Government of _Arz-roum_ than an army of ten thousand men could excite in any European country. They commit with impunity every act of cruelty and extortion; no one dares to reprimand or to punish them; and a few days before our rencounter with them, they chose to be dissatisfied with the conduct of the Governor of _Arz-roum_, and informed him that they intended to desert. To pacify them, therefore, he was obliged to send them loads of victuals. We passed the night, however, without disturbance, and fared well indeed, by the kindness of the Armenians of the village. From this place Southward to _Bin Gieul_,[42] the sources of the _Araxes_ is five _sahat_ (hours) Turkish. The villages nearest our road were _Gez_, _Belour_, _Arouni_.

22d. Our route to _Purtun_ bore W. on a distance of twenty miles. From _Ilija_ to the right and left, the country was still as on the preceding day, studded with villages, and still richly cultivated. But it is almost destitute of timber; a few bushes and small trees only are sprinkled here and there over the hills; and the great number of _Arabahs_ which we met loaded with wood had been all brought from a distance. About six miles on the right is the village of _Alaga_, and on the left _Arranli_. Having proceeded five miles from our last stage we stopped at _Jennis_, a very pretty spot, where the Armenians brought us a breakfast of eggs, fritters, _yaourt_ (curdled milk), and _kymack_ (clouted cream). On leaving _Jennis_, the village _Nardiran_ lies at the declivity of the hill. We quitted here the road to the right, which would have carried us to _Ak Caléh_, the regular _Menzil Khonéh_, and took a bye-path, because a pass in the mountains along the direct line was possessed by a party of _Courdistan_ freebooters. We reached _Purtun_ about four miles S. from _Ak Caléh_, and sent thither for the horses (fifteen in number,) which were necessary to convey us forwards. Our resting place was a small village in the bosom of the mountains, near a pretty stream which fell in a cascade (almost under the roots of three picturesque trees in the middle of the water), and turned a mill below. At about twelve o’clock the clouds arose from the S. E. and brought thunder, hail, and rain; a circumstance which I had remarked almost every day at the same hour since our arrival at _Arz-roum_. The weather then cleared up towards the close of the evening, and a fine morning with an almost cloudless sky opened the following day.

On the 23d, we left _Purtun_; and retraced the route of the preceding day for two miles and a half, when we took a general Westerly direction for twenty-four miles. Our road was carried through a long chain of mountains, in a line of easy access, though the surface was rendered difficult by the mud which the rains had made. The whole soil was an admirably rich earth, producing the greatest luxuriance of grass, wild herbs, and flowers. Here and there the country begun to be wooded; and to be intersected by a great profusion of streams; and in one particular view (about two miles from our stage) displayed the most romantic scenery with fine wild precipices washed by the waters below, and shaded by shrubs and pine trees. The neighbouring district however, in consequence of the depredations of the _Delhis_, and the recent incursions of the _Courds_, was entirely unpeopled; and we learnt that the village of _Mama Khatoun_, at which we intended to take up our quarters for the night, was in the same manner deserted.

From the eminence above we enjoyed a beautiful prospect; a river, swoln by the rains and melted snows, poured from the mountains on the S. E. and meandered at the foot of two stupendous rocks; and the large buildings from which the place derived its name, were below us. They are close to the village, and consist of a _caravanserai_, a mosque, a bath, and a tomb, all constructed with a fine white free stone, and finished in a manner worthy of the best ages. The _caravanserai_, in the usual shape of such buildings, is a hollow square, with a gate to the East. Round the court are built small rooms, all arched in the most solid and magnificent style. There are also two vaulted chambers, each fifty yards long by forty broad, for the accommodation of the cattle of travellers. In the middle of the square is an arched chamber, erected probably as a cool retreat in summer. Though many parts of the building are falling into ruin, the _caravanserai_ may be considered generally in very good preservation. The mosque is situated to the right. It is entered by a small court yard, from which a vaulted Peristyle leads under the dome, into the principal chamber, where is a stone pulpit. Though the dome is covered with weeds, and though of the single minaret the upper part has fallen, the main structure is still entire; and its fine materials, and its admirable masonry, are very strikingly and advantageously opposed to the more modern works of the country. Close to the _caravanserai_ is the bath, and on the other side the remains of a building; the use of which I could not ascertain. Nearly facing the _caravanserai_, is a kind of small round temple, probably a tomb, enclosed by a circular wall, which is entered by a gate way of Saracenic architecture. On the exterior of the arch is an inscription in _Cufic_. The small building inside is covered by a shelving roof, of the same construction as many of the buildings at _Arz-roum_. The interior is arched, and carved in a variety of ornaments, and under it is a subterraneous chamber. The court is full of fragments, which may perhaps suggest the supposition, that the whole was originally covered. Around are many tomb-stones, inscribed with _Cufic_ characters.

The popular story of the erection of those different buildings is as follows: a wealthy Turk fell in love with an Armenian woman of this village, but as she doubted the extent of his affections, she required as a proof before she yielded her consent to marry him, that he should build a _caravanserai_, mosque, &c. at the place of her birth. The Turk immediately accepted the conditions; and, proving that his love was equal to his wealth, raised these structures, and called them by her name, _Mama Khatoun_. The people add, that a treasure is concealed in a part of the _caravanserai_; which, according to an inscription, is destined for the reconstruction of the whole, after the decay of the present buildings. In one of the corners of the _caravanserai_ we luckily found a stray calf, of which we took possession, and of which the Persians, in disregard of their scruples and distaste of ox-flesh, eat with great appetite.

At noon we had the usual thunder storm. The surface of the mountain is hard, and apparently contains much mineral matter. A very elevated chain covered with snow extends before the village; the highest part bearing W. and taking a N. direction. The _Kara Sou_ is no longer known by that name at _Mama Khatoun_, though by the description of the country, we recognized it under that of _Frat_. The water at this place has no distinct designation, but is called simply, the river of _Mama Khatoun_.

On the 24th we proceeded to _Kara Colagh_, a distance called twelve hours, which we performed in ten, and which in road measure may be reckoned at thirty-two miles. We travelled for eight hours on a bearing of W. and for the remainder of the stage turned to the N. When we had advanced about six miles and a half, we came to the river, which in its earlier progress we had passed as the _Kara Sou_, but which here, as we suspected at _Mama Khatoun_, was known as the _Frat_, and was said to flow finally near _Maaden Kebban_, into that which rises at _Diadin_. We crossed it over a very good bridge of eight arches, constructed altogether of the same materials, and in the same style as the buildings at _Mama Khatoun_. At the distance scarcely of a stone’s throw is the confluence of the _Frat_, and that river which flows near _Mama Khatoun_; their united waters form a considerable stream, following the direction N. to S. 40 W. Near the bridge is the village of _Manastour_. We traced upwards to the N. for two hours, the river which I conceive to be the original parent of the _Euphrates_, enjoying at every turn new and beautiful pictures of cultivation, and woodland.

At the distance of about twenty miles we came to a large but completely deserted village, called _Moss_. Its inhabitants had fled the day before to their mountains, from the depredation of the _Courds_. Near it are very ancient tombs, some placed evidently over the bodies of Christians, for among the ornaments on some of the stones is carved the cross. One has an Armenian inscription. Here and there are collections of very large stones, rudely piled one over the other. On the other side of the stream is _Pekesidge_, a town with a castle on a conical hill. This is on the high road leading from _Ak Caléh_ to _Constantinople_, through _Shoghoun Deréh_, the pass occupied by the _Courds_. After this is the village of _Ak Doghan_, and then that of _Kismisore_, but both deserted. The cultivation is however very plentiful. In our line to the W. we crossed a branch of the river, where the water was up to the horses’ bellies.

_Kara Colagh_ is a large village, and the _Menzil Khonéh_ is here. The surrounding mountains still bear an appearance of mineral. The clouds gathered at the usual hour, but in a much smaller quantity than on the preceding days. There was round the road a great profusion of wild herbs, and amongst others asparagus.

25th. On the next morning we had a great dispute at the _Menzil Khonéh_. The master peremptorily required that we should pay for the horses with which he furnished us. In vain did the _Mirza_ persist that he was an _Elchee_, an Embassador; our host swore that he cared neither for the _Shah_ of Persia, nor for his own _Sultan_, and that he must have our money before we should take his beasts. We agreed at last to give twenty-five piastres for the hire of twenty horses.

Our road first took a N. direction among uncultivated mountains, where I am told that the snow is frequently so deep in winter as to impede the passage of travellers. It then varied W. and N. and N. and W. frequently; but on a general bearing, I think that we averaged N. 60 W. to _Chiflik_, a distance called twelve hours, and which we performed exactly in that time, on a reckoning of forty miles. In winding through the mountains, we came to parts beautifully wooded with fir, pines, and walnut-trees; and forming, particularly on a long descent, the most picturesque forest scenery that can be imagined. At the summit of the mountains we had a continual rain for two hours, accompanied with thunder. When we reached the close of the descent, we discovered on our left hand the village of _Sadac_, situated about two miles from the road on the declivity of the hills, with a surrounding territory admirably fertile in corn, and well watered. From this place to _Chiflik_ is fifteen miles: the road leading through one of the most beautiful and happy looking vallies that I ever saw. A stream, swoln when we saw it by the rains, runs through it, and on each side spreads a more abundant vegetation.

On quitting the valley we came on the plain in which _Chiflik_ lies, so well cultivated that it quite transported me into some of the best parts of England. The peasants were ploughing the ground, while immense flocks of sheep, goats, and oxen were spread over the whole country. The fields were parted off by hedges and ditches; the road was well defined; and pretty villages rose here and there, intermixed with the most luxuriant verdure. Spring was here in its bloom, and the whole plain was a little Eden.

At about six hours from _Kara Colagh_, the road leads N. to the district of _Bybourg_ or _Baibort_, whilst our road led us W.

The village of _Chiflik_ is interspersed with poplars and willows; the out-houses for cattle were built of rafters laid horizontally, and covered with a roof of earth. A _Musselim_ resides here under the government of _Arz-roum_.

26th. From _Chiflik_ we went to _Caraja_, distant twenty miles (six hours) on a bearing of W. We continued through the plain, which we had entered on the preceding day; and found it to its close as beautiful as in its commencement. The stream which we had admired in the valley of _Sadac_, issues into the plain and follows the road. We crossed it over a wooden bridge. It supplies the inhabitants of the neighbourhood plentifully with fish, of which indeed we had a specimen in some excellent trout, served up to us for breakfast.

We passed the village of _Ger_, and on the Eastward of the plain we saw the village of _Kizziljay_. The whole country around was enlivened by people employed in the works of agriculture. On entering the hills we found their declivities on all sides beautifully wooded with firs, pine, oak bushes, and a variety of thorns, with every shrub common to a Northern climate. All the mountains which we had passed were of easy access, and of no difficult ascent or descent. About twelve miles from _Chiflik_ there is in ruins, a small circular building of stone, which is probably a Turkish tomb.

We rested for the night at _Caraja_, though the proper _Menzil Khonéh_ is three hours distance, at a place called _Sheyran_, which gives name to a district, or _Mahalé_, containing this and between thirty and forty other villages. Our horses were collected from the individual villagers; for the regular establishments were broken up about a month before our arrival, by the disturbances in the country. From _Caraja_ to _Gumuck Khonéh_ (a large town) is twelve hours, and thence to _Trebisond_ ten hours, on a general bearing throughout the whole distance of N. _Arsinghan_ is a considerable town, twenty-four hours S. from _Caraja_. The corn fields in all this region are fenced off with rails, made of the trunks of pine trees; and here and there the boundaries of each man’s territory are marked by large stones; a greater evidence of property, and consequently of prosperity, than we had seen any where. On our road to-day we saw a great number of juniper bushes with very fine berries upon them.

In our passage through the woods we met three _Tatars_ going in great haste to _Arz-roum_, bearing to EMIN AGA the news of his having been created a _Pacha_. They told us that they had then been seven days from _Constantinople_. Their errand is called carrying the _Mudjdéh_, which is merely a verbal notification of the appointment, and which very frequently proves false; for the _Tatar_ who is the bearer of it generally gets it from the _Capi Kiayah_ or _Hommes d’Affaires_ of the great man in the province, and then takes the chance of the news proving false afterwards. As soon as the _Tatar_ arrives, he is carried immediately into the presence of the person whose new dignity he announces, and simply informs him of his promotion. If the news which he brings prove correct, he receives perhaps one thousand _piastres_, and the succeeding _Tatars_ (for there are frequently twenty who set off on similar expeditions) get sums in proportion to their early or tardy arrival. The person indeed who on these occasions secures the highest prize, is generally he who brings the pelisse of office, which is the common mode of investiture in Turkey. On the present occasion we were told by the _Tatars_ that the pelisse was actually on the road.

The _Aga_ or Governor of _Caraja_ was a Turk of a very fierce appearance, but of a behaviour more agreeable than his looks. He accommodated us with the upper part of his own house, an open room looking over a beautiful plain, and in the evening treated us with a dinner. The greatest and best ingredient of the entertainment was a large lamb roasted whole; round this were seated twelve persons, mostly the farmers of the place, among whom however I could distinguish the _Imaum_, or parish priest, and the _Hodja_ or schoolmaster. All these gentlemen arrived with very good appetites to the feast; for no sooner were they seated and the lamb placed before them, than every one had his right hand in the dish at once, tearing off as large pieces from the animal, as his strength and dexterity would admit. This species of attack did not finish, until there remained nothing but the bare bones of the lamb; when every man very deliberately retired to smoke his pipe in a corner of the sofa, and to drink a cup of coffee, that was then handed round to each of the guests. Although such a meal may be repugnant to the delicacy of those, who have been accustomed to a civilized mode of eating, yet there was a species of wild and generous hospitality in the manners of these people, that I could not help admiring; and a few ingredients of which would add extremely to the delights of a modern table.

27th. We proceeded from _Caraja_, and halted at the distance of twenty miles, on a bearing of N. 60 W. Our station was on the banks of a stream in a beautiful valley, and we reached it through a country, which (almost above that of the preceding march) was finely wooded, and in the intervals among the mountains richly cultivated. Among the forests the pines were of an uncommon size. Whilst we were eating our dinner under a tree, a heavy storm of thunder and lightning and rain, from the Westward, came over us. In this situation we were joined by a Persian who was coming post from _Constantinople_. He was of the suite of ASKER KHAN, the Persian Embassador at Paris, and unburthened himself of a volume of news to us. He soon convinced me that he had gained some knowledge in France by saying, “_Les dames de Paris sont bien jolies_.” The storm continued with little intermission till near midnight. Some sought shelter among the rocks; others covered themselves with carpets, horse cloths, or any thing which they could seize for the purpose, whilst others, and I among the rest, sought refuge in a neighbouring water-mill, half in ruins, where we made a large fire and defended ourselves as well as we could from the pelting of the storm. I passed the night in the trough of the mill.

28th. We again continued our route on a general bearing of W. to _Carahissar_, a distance called eight hours, but which we performed even in ten hours with difficulty, from the extreme debility of our cattle. The road measurement may be thirty miles. The whole country, through which we passed, presented the luxuries of a garden, with the grandeur of a forest. Flowers of all hues embellished the slopes of the rich pasturage, and embalmed the air with their aromatic odours. I never saw spring so luxuriant, so exuberant, as it was in these regions. At the bottom of every valley invariably runs a stream, the progress of which is marked by the trees and by the fertility which borders it, and which accompanies it in all its windings. The soil is of a fine red earth; and when occasionally turned up by the plough, breaks the monotony of the universal verdure that now covers the country, and contrasts admirably with the splendid brilliancy of its tints. The corn on the summit of the mountain was about a foot high, but in the valley was much more advanced. The great cultivation consists in barley, besides many fields of rye, the latter indeed in many places grows wild, and indiscriminately with other plants. Wheat does not appear to be one of the necessaries of the inhabitants, for almost all the bread which we ate was made of barley. Great numbers of pear-trees border the road, with pines of a form most picturesque, and presented often in the most striking views. The pencils of an hundred artists would not accomplish in as many years the task of delineating all the landscapes which this country affords. The inhabitants are as well adapted for the painter as their country, and would add a new interest to the charms of the picture.

On reaching the eminence of _Carahissar_ a splendid panorama opens. The various masses that erect themselves in an infinity of curious forms suggest forcibly the wild convulsion of nature which had thrown them in their present disorder. To the North is a large mass of mountain of a rude outline, and a tint which indicates the mineral below: this joins a stupendous chain of rock which, taking a turn to the Westward, is terminated by the great isolated height of _Carahissar_. On the extreme summit of this is the castle, a small fort rendered tenable by its position. There are houses also on the top to which a ziz-zag road leads. The remainder of the surface is also inlaid with walls, which, as seen from below, appear more ancient than the main building. The town of _Carahissar_ is spread about on the declivity. At the distance of about two miles from the place, and at the bottom of the valley, formed by the steeps of the great mountains, flows a torrent from the N. E.: the waters of which foam through a bed of rocks and loose stones, and spread through the cultivation around _Carahissar_. We passed on a bridge of one arch: the bases of the arch are of stone built on two projecting rocks, and the superstructure is of wood. Immediately after passing the bridge is a fountain, and near it a garden, from which we got some of the finest cherries that I ever eat. From this spot the rock of _Carahissar_ was singularly striking.

Proceeding further, we entered the great tract of cultivation and gardens, more immediately surrounding the town, and certainly constituting one of the finest spots which I can recollect in Turkey, or indeed in any other country. Plane trees, poplars, fruit trees of every denomination in the thickest profusion, intermixed with corn fields, and enlivened by the murmuring of a thousand streams, formed the fore-ground of the view. We came to a second torrent which flows through the gardens with great precipitation and noise, and adds its waters to the first. The heat was that of summer; the corn had lost its green tints, and was ripening into yellow. Such was the difference of our elevation since the preceding day: our descent to _Carahissar_ indeed had been gradual for nearly four hours.

The houses are terraced, and are built of all materials, mud, bricks, stone, and wood. There is a custom-house: the town is administered by a _Musselim_ under the jurisdiction of _Arz-roum_. The place has two mosques, and two baths: one of the former is a good structure with a dome covered with lead. In the vicinity are many villages: among others to the South, are _Gezliché_, _Yaiché_, _Sayit_ and _Soucher_.

Scarcely a fortnight before our arrival the town and the adjacent country had been in a state of great disturbance; a party of _Janizaries_ inimical to JUSSUF PACHA (now (1809) the Grand Vizir, who had lately governed the district) set fire to a large house which he had built at _Carahissar_, and the whole, with an immense property which it contained, was totally consumed.

We were delayed some time, at the moment of our departure, by a fierce dispute that arose between the Persians and the Turk and his family at whose house we had lodged. One of the Persian servants had lost his _shalwars_ or riding breeches, and, in his anxiety to find them, taxed the Turk with having stolen them. The Turk retorted with warmth; and the contention was already going on at a high rate, when the Embassador arrived, brandishing the breeches in the air, and joining in the attack on the Turk. It seems that the Embassador, who had before suspected the integrity of our host, immediately on hearing the affray, searched in the suspicious parts of our chamber, and in a bye-corner found (wrapped up in a slip of hay) the unlucky object of dispute. The confusion of the Turk, who, by his dress and exterior possessions, was passing for a man of respectability in the town, may be better imagined than described.

We at length left _Carahissar_, and travelled eighteen miles W. on a mountainous and stony road. About three miles from our last station we saw the road to _Diarbekir_ and _Bagdad_, bearing S. 25 W. We continued our own course to the W. and came to the banks of a large stream called (like the earlier part of the _Euphrates_) the _Kara Sou_, and flowing from E. to W. in a channel between two chains of rocks. In its subsequent progress, like the _Euphrates_ also, it assumes a new name; and at _Niksar_ is called the _Kelki Irmak_[43]. I am told that it takes its rise near the mines, fifteen days journey from the point where we saw it, and that it finally falls into the Black Sea. We encamped on the banks, having followed the windings of the river through the mountains, on a bad road, now and then rendered dangerous by narrow and steep passes. Our halt was on the extremity of the range, with a village to our right; on the eminence on the opposite side of the water, appeared a ruin of which no one could give me any better account, than that it was a church built by the _Giaours_ or infidels. I could observe a portico with a Roman arch; and, not being able to cross the stream and take a nearer view, I was obliged to be contented with this scanty information. About noon a strong wind arose from the S. W. bringing together an immense collection of thick clouds; which at the close of the evening fell in heavy torrents of rain. Here again we were exposed to the storm for the night, without any other shelter than that which the foliage of two trees, and the partial covering of a shelving rock might yield.

1st. July. We proceeded W. again about eighteen miles, and as on the preceding day, stopped by the banks of the river, which continued to wind at the foot of two ranges of mountains. On the right chain was the line of our route, in parts singularly dangerous: in one pass the soil crumbled under our feet as we advanced, and fell a horrid depth into the precipice over the river below. Nor indeed, if a little more rain had fallen, would the road have been practicable at any hazard. About eight miles from _Kuley Hissar_ (on the left of our course, and on the other side of the river) is a small structure built over a hot spring. In the little plains and vallies that now and then intervened we met with much vegetation. The acacia was in great plenty; with plants of every hue. At the end of the stage we saw the castle of _Kuley Hissar_, situated on the pinnacle of a very high part of the mountains. We ascended a very steep and intricate road, and from the summit saw in the deep valley extended at our feet, the beautiful village of _Kuley Hissar_. It consists of houses unconnected with one another, and scattered in a wood of every description, (particularly of fruit-trees;) the refreshing tints of which were admirably contrasted with the arid surfaces of the surrounding heights. A little art would render the scene perfect. Streams of running water murmured in every part of this plantation; and an exhilarating breeze kept up a delightful temperature in the air. The situation however, girded close by high land on every side, was in itself much warmer than _Carahissar_, or any part of our preceding route. Here indeed we found the season for cherries expired; and we got only the _vishna_ (sour cherry) and the white mulberry. The corn was generally approaching to a state fit for the sickle: and in some warmer exposures had already been cut.

The fort at the summit was some years ago destroyed by JUSSUF PACHA, (the present Grand Vizier, 1809) who found that the inhabitants of the neighbouring region were inclined to be turbulent and independent; a disposition which, I understand, is so little subdued, that they are now rebuilding their strong hold. To the port of _Janik_ on the Black Sea, the distance from _Kuley Hissar_ is not more than twelve hours.