Chapter II: Introduction (1)

The history of Persia from the death of NADIR SHAH to the accession of the present King, comprehending a period of fifty-one years, presents little else than a catalogue of the names of tyrants and usurpers, and a succession of murders, treacheries and scenes of misery.

After the assassination of NADIR, one of the most formidable of the competitors for the vacant throne, was MAHOMED HASSAN KHAN, the head of the _Cadjar_ tribe, and a person of high rank among the nobles of SHAH THAMAS, the last king of the SEFFI race.[3] MAHOMED HASSAN KHAN had several sons: HOSSEIN KOOLI KHAN, the eldest, was father to the present King of Persia, and was killed in a battle with the _Turcomans_: AGA MAHOMED KHAN, the second son, was the immediate predecessor of his nephew on the throne.

MAHOMED HASSAN KHAN had not long assumed the crown, when he was opposed by KERIM KHAN, a native of _Courdistan_; who, under pretence of protecting the rights of ISMAEL,[4] a lineal descendant of the SEFFI family, and then a child, secured to himself so large a share of influence and authority in the state, that he very soon supplanted virtually the pageant that he had erected; and, while he still concealed his ambition under the name of _Vakeel_ or Regent, exercised all the real powers of the sovereign of Persia. The birth of KERIM KHAN was obscure; but the habits of his early years qualified him for the times in which he lived, and the destiny to which he aspired. His family, indeed, was a low branch of an obscure tribe in _Courdistan_, that of the _Zunds_, from which his dynasty has been denominated; and his profession was the single occupation of all his countrymen, robbery,[5] which, when it thus becomes a national object, loses in reputation all its grossness. Here he acquired the talents and hardihood of a soldier; and was renowned for an effectual spirit of enterprise, and for great personal skill in the exercise of the sword, a qualification of much value among his people. The long revolutions of Persia called forth every talent and every passion; and the hopes of KERIM KHAN were excited by the partial successes of others, and by the consciousness of his own resources. He entered the field; and eventually overcame MAHOMED HASSAN KHAN, his principal competitor, who fled and was killed in _Mazanderan_. The conqueror having seized and confined the children of his rival, proceeded to quell the several inferior chiefs, who, in their turns, had aspired to the succession. His superior activity and talents finally secured the dominion: and having, in 1755, settled at _Shiraz_, he made that city the seat of his government. He beautified it by many public buildings, both of use and luxury; and their present state attests the solid magnificence of his taste. His memory is much lamented in Persia; as his reign, a reign of dissipation and splendor, was congenial to the character of the people. In his time prostitutes were publicly protected; their calling was classed among the professions; and the chief, or representative, of their numbers, attended by all the state and parade of the most respected of the _Khans_ and _Mirzas_, used daily to stand before the Sovereign at his _Durbar_.

On the 13th of March, 1779, KERIM KHAN died a natural death, an extraordinary occurrence in the modern history of Persia, having reigned (according to the different dates assigned to his accession, from the deaths of different competitors) from nineteen to thirty years. From the fall of MAHOMED HASSAN KHAN the better epoch, his conqueror lived nineteen years, with almost undisputed authority.

After his death all was again in confusion; and the kingdom presented a renewal of blood and usurpation. It is scarcely necessary to state the short-lived struggles of his successors: their very names have ceased to interest us. It is sufficient therefore to add, that his sons and brothers, and other relatives, attacked each other for fourteen years after his death; till the fortunes of the whole family were finally overwhelmed in the defeat of LOOLF ALI KHAN, the last and greatest of these claimants; and the dominion was transferred, in the year 1794, to his conqueror, AGA MAHOMED KHAN, of the present royal race of Persia.

In latter years, during the war between the East India Company and TIPPOO SAIB, under the administration of the Marquis WELLESLEY, the political relations of England and Persia were renewed. An embassy, which TIPPOO sent to FATTEH ALI SHAH, the present King of Persia, was followed soon after by a rival mission, which the Indian government confided to the care of MEHEDE ALI KHAN, a man of Persian extraction. In the mean time, indeed, TIPPOO was killed; and his death left us in possession of the Persian councils. After this Captain MALCOLM, in the year 1801, was sent to solicit the alliance of Persia against ZEMAUN SHAH, King of the _Afghans_. That gentleman concluded a treaty,[6] by which it was stipulated that Persia should attack _Khorassan_ and the _Afghan_ States, and that we should contribute our assistance in the expences of the war. The King of Persia carried his arms into _Khorassan_, and conquered that province.

The mission of Captain MALCOLM was returned by one from the King of Persia to the Indian Government. HAJEE KELIL KHAN was sent as the embassador, but unfortunately he was killed in a fray at _Bombay_, as he was attempting to quell a disturbance between his servants and some Indians. To explain this untoward event, Mr. LOVETT, a gentleman in the Bengal civil service, was dispatched; but he proceeded no further with his mission than to _Bushire_, and delivered it over to Mr. MANESTY, the East India Company’s Resident at _Bussorah_. Another embassy was now sent from the Persian Court; and MAHOMED NEBEE KHAN, the Envoy appointed, luckily reached _Calcutta_ without any accident.

Some time after, French agents were traced into Persia, and the views of France begun to be suspected. _Monsieur_ JOUANNIN, an intelligent Frenchman, succeeded in getting the Persian Court to send a mission to BUONAPARTE. The Envoy, by name _Mirza_ REGA, went from Persia in 1806; and concluded a treaty with France at _Finkinstein_, in May 1807. On his return, a large embassy, confided to General GARDANNE, was sent from France to Persia: this gave rise to the mission of Sir HARFORD JONES, who, arriving at Bombay in April 1808, found that Brigadier-General MALCOLM had been previously sent by the Governor-General to Persia. General MALCOLM having failed of success, Sir HARFORD JONES proceeded.

PLATES.

DIRECTIONS TO THE BINDER.

PAGE
I. General Map of the Countries to face the Title.
II. Cape _Arubah_ 3
III. Island of _Ashtolah_ 4
IV. Cape _Posmee_ 4
V. Cape _Musseldom_ 6
VI. View of _Bushire_ 58
VII. Map from _Bushire_ to _Teheran_ 68
VIII. Persian on horseback smoaking 70
IX. View of _Shapour_ 86
X. Sculpture at _Shapour_ 88
XI. Sculpture at _Shapour_ 90
XII--XIII. Sculptures at _Shapour_ 91
XIV. View of _Shiraz_ 106
XV. Sculpture at _Nakshi Rustam_ 127
XVII. Sculpture at _Nakshi Rustam_ 128
XVIII. View of _Persepolis_ 132
XIX. Sculpture at _Nakshi Radjab_, near
_Persepolis_ 137
XX. Sculpture at _Nakshi Radjab_, near _Persepolis 138
XXI. Tomb of _Madré Suleiman_ 145
XXII. View of _Ispahan_ 169
XXIII. View of _Teheran_ 185
XXIV. _Takht-a-Cadjar_ 226
XXV. Map from _Teheran_ to _Amasia_ 249
XXVI. _Sultaniéh_ 257
XXVII. Bridge over the _Kizzil Ozan_ 267
XXVIII. _Mount _Ararat_ 306
XXIX. Plate of Inscriptions 357

ERRATA.

P. 176. Twenty-two lines from the top, for _twelve_, read _sixteen_.

P. 257. Sixteen lines from the top, for _four_, read _five_.
(Transcriber's note: These have been implemented)

JOURNEY THROUGH PERSIA,

&c. &c. &c.

CHAP. I.

BOMBAY TO BUSHIRE.

DEPARTURE FROM BOMBAY--LAND OF GUZERAT--COAST OF MEKRAN--BALOUCHES--ENTRANCE OF THE GULPH OF PERSIA--IMAUM OF MUSCAT: HIS FLEET--SOUNDINGS IN THE GULPH--BUSHIRE--VISIT OF THE SHEIK--LANDING IN PERSIA.

On the 6th of September 1808, when His Majesty’s Mission to the court of _Teheran_ was still at _Bombay_, the Envoy extraordinary, Sir HARFORD JONES, received dispatches from the Governor-general at _Calcutta_, which determined him to proceed immediately to Persia. The establishment of the mission had been changed since our arrival in India; Major L. F. SMITH, who left England as public Secretary, on landing at this settlement proceeded to BENGAL; and the duties of Secretary of the Legation were annexed to those, which, as private secretary to the Envoy, I had originally discharged. The suite was augmented at _Bombay_ by Mr. THOMAS HENRY SHERIDAN, and Captain JAMES SUTHERLAND, severally of the civil and military establishments of that presidency, by Cornet HENRY WILLOCK, of the _Madras_ cavalry, commander of the body guard; and was subsequently joined by Lieutenant BLACKER, of the _Madras_ cavalry, and Mr. CAMPBELL, surgeon to the mission. Besides three European and some Indian servants, the Envoy carried washermen and tailors, and some artificers, as carpenters, blacksmiths, and locksmiths.

On the 12th Sept. Sir HARFORD JONES, accompanied by Mr. SHERIDAN and myself, embarked on board his Majesty’s frigate _Nereide_, Captain CORBETT; Capt. SUTHERLAND and Mr. WILLOCK went in the _Sapphire_, Capt. DAVIS: and the H. C. cruizer _Sylph_ carried the Persian secretary, &c. The Governor of _Bombay_ drew out the troops of the garrison to salute the Envoy on his embarkation: they formed a lane from the government-house to the entrance of the dock-yard; and as He passed the troops presented arms, and the music played “God save the King.” A salute of fifteen guns was fired on his quitting the shore, and was answered by another from the frigate; a ceremony which always excites a powerful feeling of respect in the minds of the natives.

In the afternoon of the 12th, the squadron left the harbour of _Bombay_: on the 13th, the _Nereide_ had out-stripped the _Sapphire_, and had lost sight of the _Sylph_. The winds were variable and squally: the thermometer in the cabin stood at 82°. About ten o’clock, on the morning of the 14th. we made the land of _Diu_; we stood close in shore, and tacked at twelve o’clock; the Portuguese colours were flying on the fort. The thermometer was this day 80°. 15th. calms. The land of the _Guzerat_ is extremely low. _Diu_ Point is studded with towns and pagodas. 16th. we made but little way; tacked off and on shore, and distinguished a variety of buildings and towns on the coast. The largest place, which we marked in our progress, was _Pour-bundar_. The coast itself continued flat, with scarcely an inequality.

On Sunday, the 18th. Capt. CORBETT read prayers to the ship’s company on the quarter-deck. The scene struck me as more simple and more impressive than any that, for a long time, I had witnessed. The cleanliness of the ship, the attention of the sailors, the beauty of the day, all conspired to heighten the solemnity of the service, and I felt persuaded that the prayers, offered up to God by such men and in such a manner, would be favourably accepted.

_Drawn by James Morier Esq^r._
_Published by Mess^{rs}. Longman, Hurst, Rees, Orme & Brown,
Paternoster Row, May 1, 1811._]

As the coast of _Mekran_, (taken largely, from the _Indus_ to the entrance of the gulph of Persia,) along which we now sailed, is so little visited in this age, and has, indeed, been so seldom described since the days of ALEXANDER, it may, perhaps, be acceptable to insert even the few and incomplete notices of the country which my journal affords.

On the 18th. we lost sight of the coast. On the 24th we again saw land, which in appearance was remarkable. It was a very long range of table land, the soil of which, though light coloured, was strongly marked in horizontal strata. As we approached it, we discovered several curious capes, rising in a varied succession of grotesque forms; and among them one so very singular, that we were surprised that it had not been particularly described by those who have compiled the directories for navigating these seas. By our chronometers we took this land to be Cape _Moran_.[7] The shore gradually shallows from twelve to five fathoms, when we tacked and stood off again in the evening, expecting a land breeze to spring up, but were disappointed. The sea is here very much discoloured, the effect probably of black mud at the bottom.

25th. Sept. Cape _Arubah_ is a long slip of table land, which on its first appearance looks like an island.[8] Its soil seems to be clay, and of a colour a few shades darker than Portland stone. We did not discover, among the head-lands into which it was broken, the particular cape which might have given its name to the whole; but the highest point to the westward appeared to deserve the preference. Beyond that western extremity of the table land, the coast immediately recedes into a bay, which is terminated by a long range of extremely rugged mountains. In one of the recesses of the cliffs of _Arubah_, we fancied that we had discovered a village, and even through our glasses were still positive that we could mark its white buildings; but as we drew closer to the shore, we ascertained that the houses in appearance were in reality large clods of white soil, which had fallen from the cliffs above, and were arranged so happily, some in separate piles, and some in rows, as to give to the whole the full effect of a town. A number of small boats with white _lateen_ sails were creeping quietly along the shore, as we passed; but we could not get close enough to them, to ascertain the people who managed them, or the nature of the goods which they carried.

On the 26th. the weather was very foggy; the thermometer was 75°. On the 27th. as the fog still increased, we came to an anchor in nine fathoms. On the 28th. as the fog cleared away, we discovered the small island of _Ashtola_, which is of an equal height along its whole extent, a length perhaps of about two miles, and seems to be of the same soil as the capes on the mainland. Not far from the island, we caught turtle. The continent as seen from _Ashtola_, appears extremely high, in long continued ranges; but the lands which more immediately border on the sea, are very low. The soundings are regular, and there is no danger, as long as the lead is going. At eight o’clock we were off _Cape Posmee_, a remarkable head-land.

_Drawn by James Morier Esq^r._
_Published by Mess^{rs}. Longman, Hurst, Rees, Orme & Brown.
Paternoster Row. May 1, 1811._]

On the 1st of October, we made _Cape Guadel_, a piece of land of a moderate and rather equal height, which projects far into the sea, and is connected with the continent by an isthmus less than half a mile in breadth. Close under the north side of the cape, there is still a town; and on the isthmus, as we could perceive from the ship, are the remains of an old fort. In the neighbourhood are the vestiges of a town also, built with stone, and some wells.[9] But the more modern village of _Guadel_ is composed of mat houses, and the greater part of the inhabitants (the number of the whole is very small) are weavers, who manufacture coarse linen and carpets of ordinary colours. From _Crotchey_ to _Cape Monze_ the people call themselves _Balouches_; and from _Monze_ to _Cape Jasques_, they take the name of _Brodies_: there is some difference in their language, perhaps in their religion also, but none in their dress or manners. The high lands about _Cape Guadel_ are all extremely remarkable, rising in spires and turrets so correctly formed, as to give to many parts of the coast, an appearance of towns with their churches and castles.

Their rocky summits, split and rent,
Form’d turret, dome, and battlement,
Or seem’d fantastically set
With cupola or minaret,
Wild crests as pagod ever deck’d
Or mosque of eastern architect.

_Lady of the Lake, Canto_ I. xi. p. 14.

_Drawn by James Morier Esq^r._
_Published by Mess^{rs}. Longman, Hurst, Rees, Orme & Brown,
Paternoster Row, May 1, 1811._]

One piece of land in particular, forming an entrance to the bay behind _Cape Guadel_, has the most striking resemblance to a long range of gothic ruin. We perceived three camels grazing on the heights of the cape, and some few signs of cultivation, which we had discovered on no other spot along the coast before.

On the 3d. we saw the town of _Chubar_; and plainly distinguished among other objects a walled building, which we at first took to be a fort, but which according to the Directory, is a place of burial. We saw several boats with _lateen_ sails, of a canvas very conspicuously white, cut exactly like the sails of the boats on the coast of Italy and Sicily. The thermometer was 84°. The 5th. was very sultry, and the thermometer was 90°. On the 6th. a hot wind came from off the land, and warped the tables, mathematical rulers, and the furniture in the cabin, besides slackening all our rigging. This wind brought with it a thick mist of an impalpable sand, which gradually cleared away, and left us the first view of _Cape Jasques_.

Oct. 7th. at about one o’clock in the morning, a breeze sprung up from the southward, and in five hours we had passed the _Quoins_, in the Gulph of Persia, and were abreast of the island of _Kishmis_. We saw at the same time the high land of the Arabian shore, terminating in a lofty and marked peak; it is the land about _Cape Musseldom_. The entrance of the gulph may be properly marked between _Cape Bombareek_ and _Cape Musseldom_. I call these places by their names, as laid down in our sea charts; because their more proper appellations would probably not be understood. _Bombareek_ for instance, which by sailors is also called _Bombay rock_, is derived originally from “_Moobarek_, happy, fortunate.” _Musseldom_ is still a stronger instance of the perversion of words. The genuine name of this head-land is _Mama Selemeh_, derived according to the story of the country from _Selemeh_, who was a female saint of Arabia, and lived on the spot or in its neighbourhood. The Indians, when they pass the promontory, throw cocoa nuts, fruits or flowers into the sea, to secure a propitious voyage. My informer added, that the superstition was not practised by the Persians.

On the shore of _Cape Bombareek_ is an insulated and very singular mass of rock, in which we could perceive from the ship a large natural aperture. To me the shape of the whole mass appeared like a tankard, and the aperture formed its handle. After having rounded _Cape Musseldom_ (which is eighteen leagues to the westward of _Bombareek_), we came to the five small islands generally called altogether the _Quoins_.

_Kishmis_ is the largest island in the gulph; and, according to the account which I received, is capable of being made very productive: it is at present in almost total abandonment, though still nominally the property of Persia. We next passed two small and low islands, called the Great and Little _Tomb_.

_Drawn by James Morier Esq^r._
_Published by Mess^{rs}. Longman Hurst Rees Orme & Brown Paternoster
Row May 1 1811._]

The strong south wind, with which we were now favoured, was at this season considered extraordinary. It blew so strong that the Nereide, with every sail set, went ten and eleven knots. It is accompanied with much haze, not indeed to be compared to that which came with the hot wind from off the shore, though in the same manner it warped the furniture and slackened the rigging.

On the 8th. we passed the island of _Busheab_, which, in HEATHER’S map, is placed much too far to the eastward, and which ought to be called “_Khoshaub_, or pleasant water,” from the fresh spring in its territory. It is a long and low slip, but the land on the continent behind it is extremely high. We had a light sea breeze all day, that carried us off _Cape Nabon_, a part of the province of _Farz_. The thermometer stood at 93° in the cabin after dinner. On the morning of the 9th. it was reported that a fleet of five ships were seen from the mast-head. We conjectured that they might be Arab ships, bound from _Muscat_ to _Bussorah_, which about this season proceed on their voyages. They carry thither annually eight thousand bales of coffee; and in return get cargoes of dates. The sea breeze of the day was extremely light, and set in at noon. In the evening the _Barnhill_, a remarkable piece of land, (which derived its name from its resemblance to an old and decayed thatched building, and which is situated over the town of _Congoon_,) bore N. and by W. of us. Here the whole coast is very high.

On the morning of the 10th. we were off the _Barnhill_. The five ships had thus far kept us in a state of suspense; as we imagined that they might be the fleet of the _Imaum_ of _Muscat_, who possesses thirty sail of different descriptions. Some of his ships, indeed, are of a thousand tons burthen; and one of forty guns, built at _Bombay_, is rather a formidable vessel.[10] The _Imaum_ in person frequently parades about the Persian gulph with his armament. He is an independant prince, and his jurisdiction, though principally confined to _Muscat_, extends yet generally over the province of _Oman_. At present he is friendly to us, and we have a resident at his court, who seldom remains there long, for the badness of its air has rendered it the burial place of too many Englishmen.

At length we boarded the Arabs, and they proved to be, as we had originally expected, a fleet of the _Imaum’s_ merchantmen, laden with coffee, rice, &c. bound to _Bushire_ and _Bussorah_. They had been fifteen days from _Muscat_. One of the five was a fine vessel of six hundred tons burthen, which about four years before was purchased by the _Imaum_ at the _Isle of France_, and was then called the _Sterling Castle_. There were also two _grabs_, which are ships in every respect like the others, except that they have lengthened prows instead of rounded bows. These _grabs_ the Arabs can manage to build themselves in their own ports, as it is easy to extend the timbers of a ship, until they connect themselves into a prow; but they have not yet attained the art of forming timber fit to construct bows.

Before the sun-set of the preceding day, we had discovered through our glasses, the town of _Congoon_, under a peak, close in the eastern vicinity of the _Barnhill_. It then appeared in a wood of dates, above which rose the domes of mosques. The _Sheik_ of _Congoon_ is represented as a young and spirited Arab, who can raise a body of two thousand cavalry, and who is able to lead them. His town is resorted to for wood, but, as far as we could judge at a distance, the date is the only tree of the neighbourhood.

We suffered much from the heat in the night, but when the moon rose over the _Barnhill_, a little refreshing breeze sprang up, which gave us much relief. An Arab ship was not far from us, and I could just hear their singing on board. It brought to my recollection some of the moonlight scenes in the _Archipelago_; for the music of these Arabs struck me as being very similar to that which I have heard on board a Greek or Sclavonian ship, when the _lyra_ accompanies the voice of some naval Apollo, and is followed by a chorus of his shipmates.

We were off _Cape Verdistan_ this morning, and descried the _Hummocks_ of _Kenn_. The shoal that runs out from _Cape Verdistan_, is rendered dangerous by a reef of rocks which extends itself about six or seven miles from the shore. There are good mud soundings on the shoal, and a ship may cross its extremity without danger, though it is as well to give it a good birth. We stood off in the night of the 12th. The soundings in the shoal as laid down by _Mac Cluer_ are not all correspondent to those which we got. We were in seven fathoms for more than an hour, and he has not got such a sounding amongst his. From seven we got to half six, and then to four, when we thought it time to tack. The cause which has been assigned for our ignorance of the gulph, is the prudential reserve which has influenced our Indian governments in their transactions with the states of Persia and Arabia. To avoid suspicion and complaint, they have never professedly made surveys of the shores, though much might yet have been done indirectly, if the object had been considered of sufficient importance. Few, except merchant vessels visited the gulph; and as the charts, which they already possessed (and what is better, their own experience) served their purpose sufficiently in the line of their own navigation, there was seldom any particular demand for more correct surveys. The geographer and philosopher indeed require something more, and therefore it is still matter of regret, that we are comparatively ill-informed in countries, where we have had easy opportunities of acquiring knowledge.

13th Oct. We were becalmed all night under the _Asses Ears_. These are points of land, which stand a little more erect, and are more conspicuous than the other points which surround them. The whole displays a line of coast the most rugged, barren, and inhospitable that I ever saw; and constitutes, after we passed _Verdistan_ shoal, a very bold shore. We sailed along it, keeping in eleven and twelve fathoms. In the evening we opened _Hallilah_ peak, which is a high and remarkable point of land. As we crept along the coast, we marked some ruined walls embosomed among the date trees.[11] At sun-set we just discovered the low land on which stands the town of _Bushire_. In the calms which followed during the night, we were unable to make much way, and on the morning of the 14th we were still at the same distance from _Bushire_, as on the preceding evening. We fired two shots at a small vessel, to bring her to, but without effect. These boats are employed mostly in carrying wood to _Bushire_. They find it on the coast, probably in recesses of the land, for we could scarcely see a shrub in the whole passage of the gulph.

At about half past three o’clock on the 14th October, we anchored in _Bushire_ roads, where we found one of the Company’s cruizers, and a merchantman. Before we cast anchor, a boat came off from the shore, the captain of which, a little sharp Persian, answered Sir HARFORD JONES’S interrogations with much vivacity, and swore to the truth of every assertion ten times over by his head and eyes. Having learnt that the East India Company’s assistant resident, Mr. BRUCE, was at _Bushire_, the Envoy sent a letter to desire his attendance on board immediately, and at the same time requesting that he would notify the arrival of the mission to the _Sheik_, ABDALLAH RESOUL, who then governed _Bushire_. We could see with our glasses Mr. BRUCE’S residence, which was at some distance without the town, and could observe that the letter had been safely delivered; for in a few minutes we discovered Mr. BRUCE on horseback, riding full speed to the boat. In an hour he was on board.

He commenced by informing us of a report of the death of our King, which had reached _Bushire_ from _Bagdad_; and which, originating from an article in a French paper, had been circulated in Persia by the French, for an obvious purpose. The Envoy delivered to Mr. BRUCE, a paper containing all the communications which he wished to be made to the _Sheik_ of _Bushire_. He then added, desiring that his object might be clearly explained, that He expected from the _Sheik_ all the respect due to the station which he filled, and that if he did not receive those honours to which the King of England’s Mission was entitled, the _Sheik_ should be held responsible till the wishes of the court of Persia were known. Mr. BRUCE assured Sir HARFORD that the _Sheik_ would make no difficulty in coming off the next day to pay his respects, and the hour of his visit was in consequence fixed at ten o’clock.

The colours of the New Factory in the country, and of the Old one in the town, were hoisted on the morning of the 15th. While we were expecting the arrival of the _Sheik_, we regaled ourselves with the grapes, citrons, and pomegranates, which had been sent to us from the shore. At length we espied a boat with a crimson awning, and apparently much filled with passengers. It was beating against the sea breeze, which, rather unfortunately for the party, had set in uncommonly fresh. When she came in a line with our ship, the sail was lowered, and the men took to their oars. In a short time however we observed from the frigate, that the boat got very slowly a-head, and that the strength of the crew was nearly exhausted. Captain CORBETT then sent his barge to tow up the _Sheik_ to the ship, which was done in a very masterly style; and we were delighting in the idea of the enjoyment which the Persians must have received in the close at least of such an excursion, when we were mortified at discovering the misery in every face, which the unusual voyage had too evidently produced. But the sea-sickness was forgotten as soon as they were on board the frigate. The _Sheik_ was received with a salute of five guns; the number was esteemed a mark of particular distinction, as three are considered in Persia a sufficient allowance for a great man.

The marines were under arms; Captain CORBETT with much courtesy handed him across the quarter-deck, and assisted him with some difficulty to descend from the deck to the cabin by a steep and narrow ladder, which, however, no attention could render convenient to a man encumbered with an immense large cloak and slip-shod slippers. At the bottom he was received by Sir HARFORD JONES. The ship was immediately filled by the suite of the _Sheik_, who, with all the curiosity and effrontery of Asiatics, spread themselves through every part. Our guest was attended on his visit by the principal men and merchants of _Bushire_, among whom the Envoy recognised the face of many an early friend. All the party seemed much pleased with their reception, and expressed their high admiration of the beauty, order, and cleanliness of the ship. The conversation was general, and consisted mostly in inquiries after former friends, and in reviving the recollection of the histories of old times. Sir HARFORD JONES had known the _Sheik_ when he was a fine boy: there was now indeed little left to be admired; his face was inanimate, and his body bent double with excessive debauch. The whole party were generally but a rude sample of the elegance of Persians, nor indeed is the true Persian to be found at _Bushire_, where the blood is mostly mixed with that of Arabia.

The only man of the party, whose face interested me, and exhibited signs of intelligence, was a Turk, by name ABDULLA AGA, an old friend of the Envoy’s, who had been _Musselim_ of _Bussorah_, and had ruled that part of the country for many years, with great respectability and eclat. He had been driven by injustice to take refuge at _Bushire_; though from the known integrity of his character, and the attachment of the people of _Bussorah_ and _Bagdad_ to his person, many still expect that he will one day attain the _Pachalick_ of _Bagdad_. After this good Mussulman, spreading his carpet near one of the twelve pounders, had said his prayers, (with a fervency, undisturbed by the busy, novel and noisy scene around him) the visit broke up.

The _Sheik_ and ABDULLA AGA, who both had suffered by their long excursion in the morning, preferred to return on shore in the _Nereide’s_ boat with Sir HARFORD JONES. We had not long put off from the ship, when a salute of fifteen guns commenced for the envoy, to the great consternation of the remaining part of the Persians, who were just embarking in their own boat, and who unluckily found themselves under the muzzles of the guns, where they were involved in clouds of smoke, with the wads whistling close to their ears. We at length reached the landing place; an immense crowd was assembled to await our debarkation. The _Sheik_ had collected all the soldiery of the town to escort us to his house; and in the moment of our touching the shore, the whole mob was put in motion, raising a dust so thick that I could scarce distinguish Englishman from Asiatic. To add to the denseness of the atmosphere, the boats, which were close to the beach, commenced a salute; which was immediately answered by a range of guns on the coast. The whole procession was obliged to pass in the immediate rear of these guns as they were firing, though they appeared so old and honey-combed, that I feared they must have burst before the honours were over. We proceeded in a cloud of dust, and through streets six feet wide to the _Sheik’s_ house, and at length entered it by a door so mean and ill-looking, that it might more properly have formed the entrance to his stable. This door introduced us into a small court yard, on one side of which was an apartment where we seated ourselves on chairs placed on purpose for us. A Persian visit, when the guest is a distinguished personage, generally consists of three acts: first, the _kaleoun_, or water pipe, and coffee; second, a _kaleoun_, and sweet coffee (so called from its being a composition of rose-water and sugar); and third, a _kaleoun_ by itself. Sweetmeats are frequently introduced as a finale. As I shall have many better opportunities of describing all the ceremonies of these occasions, it is sufficient to add at present, that we performed the three above acts, and then mounted our horses for Mr. BRUCE’S house in the country.

Part of the same armed rabble, which had escorted us from the boat to the _Sheik’s_ house, attended us to the Factory. These soldiers are the militia of the place, and serve without pay. They even find their own arms, which consist of a matchlock, a sword, and a shield that is slung behind their back. They consist of working men attached to different trades, for we discovered the dyer by the black hue of his hands, the tinker by the smut on his face, the tailor by the shreds that had adhered to him from his shopboard.

On our arrival at the Factory, we closed our dispatches for Europe, and then completed a day full of entertainment, by an excellent dinner.

The _Nereide_ sailed with the dispatches on the morning; and before daylight was out of sight. The passage between _Bombay_ and _Bushire_, which had been made in thirty-four days, was now retraced in twelve.

CHAP. II.

HISTORY OF THE SHEIK OF BUSHIRE.

HISTORY OF BUSHIRE--SHEIK NASR--THE NASAKCHEE BASHEE, THE CHIEF EXECUTIONER DISPATCHED FROM SHIRAZ AGAINST THE SHEIK ABDULLAH RESOUL; VISITS THE ENVOY: VISIT RETURNED--DIFFICULTIES OF THE SHEIK--HIS SEIZURE--CONSTERNATION OF THE TOWN--PRECAUTIONS OF THE ENVOY--EXPLANATION OF THE NASAKCHEE BASHEE--SUCCESSOR OF THE SHEIK, MAHOMED NEBEE KHAN--ASSUMPTION OF THE GOVERNMENT BY THE NASAKCHEE BASHEE--MAHOMMED JAFFER APPOINTED PROVISIONALLY; DISGRACED; RESTORED--RECEIVES A KALAAT--CEREMONY--FATE OF THE LATE SHEIK OF BUSHIRE.

The history of the _Sheik_ of _Bushire_, who had received us on our landing, added the principal interest to our subsequent residence in his country. Our stay was marked by the subversion of his power and of the Arab rule; and the journal of every day naturally contained ample accounts of the progress of an event, which was locally so prominent and important. The travellers of the last century, who mentioned his predecessors, may possibly direct some little curiosity to the fortunes of their descendant; but without any previous interest in the persons, the tale of the present day may excite attention as a practical illustration of the principles of an eastern government.

The coast of the gulph was lined for ages with the petty sovereignties of Arab _Sheiks_,[12] who, while they occupied the shores of Persia, yielded a very uncertain obedience to the monarch of the interior. The degrees indeed of service paid were probably at all times measured more by the character and relative force of the different parties, than by any original stipulations. NADIR and KERIM KHAN in vain endeavoured to reduce these Arab chiefs to more complete obedience: but in many districts their authority was scarcely acknowledged, and except in partial remissions, still more seldom felt. Among these chiefs, _Sheik_ NASR, of _Bushire_, long retained a real independance. The _Dashtistan_, the low country under the hills, was his province; and in all the turbulence of his age, this territory and more immediately the country round _Bushire_, was still the place of security. In one instance indeed, memorable in the latter history of Persia,[13] the resources of _Bushire_ supported the sinking fortunes of the last dynasty. LOOTF ALI KHAN, after the murder of his father JAFFIER KHAN, king of Persia, fled for refuge to SHEIK NASR. The _Sheik_, in memory of his ancient attachment to JAFFIER KHAN, received the prince with the warmest hospitality, and gathering the Arab tribes under his controul, resolved to lead them in the cause which was thus trusted to his honour. The prince in the mean time prepared, by letters, his friends at _Shiraz_ to second their operations; and the measures were continued with secrecy and success, when, in the words of the Persian historian,[14] “The boat of _Sheik_ NASR KHAN’S existence from the beating waves of the sea of life, had received considerable injury; and the bark of his age, from the irresistible tempest of death was overwhelmed in the sea of mortality.” In his last moments the _Sheik_ committed to his son the duty which he was no longer permitted to execute himself. The son fulfilled his father’s charge with faithfulness: in two or three months he had assembled a large force of Arab tribes[15], and advanced with them towards _Shiraz_: when a conspiracy in the camp of their enemy enabled them in the first instance to succeed without a battle, and eventually to reinstate on his throne the Prince who was confided to them. The story marks the character of the two nations more fully, if the history of LOOTF ALI KHAN, before his flight to _Bushire_, be recollected. Although his father had reigned in Persia for a long time (compared with the usurpations which preceded,) although himself had long accustomed the people to serve and triumph with him, yet in the first moment of distress (the arrival of the intelligence of his father’s slaughter, and of the orders of the conspirators to seize him), even in his own camp he was left unsupported by all. Five, indeed, fled with him in the night to _Bushire_; but in the morning the whole camp had dispersed without an effort; and all had submitted to the usurpers. The contrast now begins: the Prince threw himself on the protection of the Arabs, the vassals or allies of his father; he was welcomed with the most warm fidelity, supported by their honour, and restored by their valour to his throne.

The _Sheik_ of _Bushire_, who in his dying charge had bequeathed this cause to his successor, is still remembered in his general conduct with reverence. Whenever his little domain was threatened either by the Government of Persia, or by a neighbouring chief, SHEIK NASR flew to arms. According to the traditional accounts of the country, his summons to his followers in these emergencies was equally characteristic and effectual. He mounted two large braziers of _Pillau_ on a camel, and sent it to parade round the country. The rough pace of the animal put the ladles in motion, so that they struck the sides of the vessels at marked intervals, and produced a most sonorous clang. As it traversed the _Dashtistan_, it collected the mob of every district; every one had tasted the Arab hospitality of the _Sheik_, and every one remembered the appeal, and crowded round the ancient standard of their chief, till his camel returned to him surrounded by a force sufficient to repel the threatened encroachments. In every new emergency the camel was again sent forth, and all was again quiet.

The territory, therefore, of Bushire, and the neighbouring district, remained under the rule of the Arabs, unviolated by the successive Princes, who have conquered and retained so large a portion of the rest of Persia. But ABDULLAH RESOUL, the grandson of SHEIK NASR, inherited the office only of his predecessor, and possessed no qualities which could command the affections and the services of his people; and though at the time of our landing the government was vested in him as the descendant of the ancient possessors, it was obviously improbable that _Bushire_, which had now become the principal port of Persia, would be suffered to remain long under the administration of a young Arab, of sluggish, dissolute, and unwarlike habits.

In the evening of the 16th Oct. (the day after our landing), the _Sheik_ of _Bushire_, escorted by several of the principal men of the town, paid a visit to the Envoy. They had not sat long, when a man came in and whispered something in the ear of one of the visitants, which caused the _Sheik_ to arise, take a hasty leave, and gallop at full speed into the town. The Government of _Shiraz_ had sent a body of men to seize him. He had just time to reach _Bushire_ before the party of _Shiraz_ horsemen could overtake him. He immediately mustered all his little force, planted a guard on the walls, and himself kept constant watch at the gates. He had indeed anticipated the probable designs of the Court of _Shiraz_; and, though now apparently resolved on the last resistance, he had already taken the precaution of shipping most of his property on his own vessels, and with them meditated to retire to _Bussora_.

The commander of the _Shiraz_ horsemen, to whom the commission was intrusted, was MAHOMED KHAN, the _Nasakchee Bashee_, an office not ill understood by that of chief executioner[16]. He is always employed, at least, in seizing state prisoners, though his personal character is rather opposite to the duties of his situation; for to the facetiousness of his temper, according to the report of his countrymen, he owes the favour of the Prince of _Shiraz_, and through that favour, his office; and, as a second consequence, the monopoly of tobacco[17]. In the discharge of his functions the _Nasakchee Bashee_ is generally supposed to realize in every commission a considerable sum, besides the maintenance of himself and his followers at the expence of the individuals against whom he may successively be sent. While he waited the accomplishment of his present attempt, he remained encamped at a short distance from the town. About twelve o’clock on the 18th, he made a visit of ceremony to the Envoy. He was attended by eighteen men, himself alone mounted on a horse; on his arrival he seated himself on a couch next to Sir HARFORD JONES, and his men extended themselves in two rows to the right and left before him. The conversation consisted of mutual compliments about health, the hopes of continued amity between Persia and England, and the never failing topic the weather. The whole party wore the black sheep-skin cap (the dress of every rank of Persians), and almost all had pistols in their girdles; some had muskets, and all, except the _Khan_’s own body servants, had swords. Most of them also wore the green and high-heeled slippers of ceremony, and every man had a full black beard. On the day of this visit, the _Sheik_, as a douceur perhaps to engage the Envoy’s interference in his cause, sent him a present of two horses.

On the 20th. I went on the part of the Envoy to return the visit of the _Nasakchee Bashee_. He was encamped among some date trees; and living in the remains of a house which was all in ruins, but which he had screened up with mats to keep off the sun and wind. A clean mat was spread on the floor, carpets were arranged all around, and his bed and cushions were rolled up in one corner: over the carpet, on which he sate himself, was a covering of light blue chintz. When we were within a hundred yards, we saw him walking about; but as soon as he perceived our approach, he seated himself in the place of honour, and did not pay us the compliment of rising when we entered. I made him a civil speech in Turkish, and he in return asked after the Envoy’s health. He seemed, indeed, much pleased with the epithet of _Effendi_, which I used frequently in addressing him, but which, as I afterwards learned, is never applied in Persia to any but very great men. His vanity was accordingly much flattered; and he exclaimed to his attendants, that I was “_Khoob Jouani_,” a fine fellow. When we had exhausted all our compliments, we took our leave.

The mission on which he was dispatched to _Bushire_ originated in the following circumstances. Some years ago, the _Sheik_ had been required by the Governor of _Farsistan_ to furnish a certain sum of money. He pleaded poverty: he was ordered to borrow; and to obviate every difficulty, he was told that a particular person would advance the money, at an interest indeed prescribed by the same authority which dictated the amount of the capital. The _Nasakchee Bashee_ was now sent to enforce the immediate repayment of the capital and interest, which together had swelled to twenty-eight thousand _tomauns_, a sum nearly equal to the same number of pounds sterling. To save his authority, and perhaps his head, the _Sheik_ endeavoured to accommodate the present difficulty by offering to pay down five thousand _tomauns_, and to secure the rest by instalments. This, however, was refused; and the unfortunate _Sheik_ accordingly gave immediate and public notice of the sale of his effects, his horses, mules, and asses; and in the course of a few days raised fifty thousand piastres.

Still the hope of a less rigorous arrangement was not entirely excluded: the _Sheik_, attended by the principal men of the town, and with a strong guard (so stationed that the signal of a moment could bring them to his assistance) visited the _Khan_. The _Khan_ indeed had sworn that he would not molest the _Sheik_ “at present;” though, when asked to extend the oath to every visit or opportunity, he replied that he would not answer for the directions which he might receive from his government. Two days after the visit, we observed a party of forty horsemen arrive at the _Khan_’s encampment, who probably bore the last orders of the Court.

On the 25th of Oct. the Envoy received an intimation of a visit, jointly from the _Sheik_ and the _Nasackchee Bashee_; but he was so much occupied, that at the time he could not accept it. In a few minutes after we heard a great commotion among the servants, and an outcry that the _Sheik_ was seized. By the assistance, indeed, of our glasses we perceived the unfortunate man, with his arms pinioned, surrounded by about twenty horsemen, and dragged away at full speed towards the _Shiraz_ road. It appeared, that trusting in this conditional oath of the _Khan_, the _Sheik_ had accepted his invitation to visit with him the Envoy, and had gone forth from the town escorted by five men only. On his way to the Envoy, he called for the _Khan_; and when they were both mounted, the _Khan_ cried out to his men to seize, disarm, and carry off their prisoner.

The consternation of the town was immediate and general. Mr. BRUCE, the Assistant Resident, was sent by the Envoy to learn the particulars of its situation: he found the gates shut, and the towers manned, but he gained admittance through the wicket, and saw all the misery and confusion of the crisis. The _Sheik_’s wives and servants were embarking in great haste on board one of his ships; his _Vizir_ also, HAJEE SULIMAN, was hastening his own preparations to escape. The shops were shut, the streets were crowded with men transporting their households to the sea shore, and their wives and daughters were beating their breasts and crying in loud lamentation. Nor was there a shew of resistance, except on the walls; or a thought of defence: the only hope and the only thought of every man was the preservation of his little fortunes and the honour of his women. The same alarm prevailed in the country; all the poor date-hut villagers flocked for protection into the Factory, and trusted to its walls the security of their families and their scanty wealth. Women and children, their asses and their poultry, were all indiscriminately hurried into the enclosure; and before the evening we saw around us no common scenes of misery and terror.

The Assistant Resident, who had examined this state of things in the town, was sent, on his return, by the Envoy to the _Khan_, to represent the alarm of the place; and to add, that the Envoy expected that no molestation should be offered to any of the persons belonging to his mission. The _Khan_ was extremely civil, and treated him as usual with coffee and three _kaleouns_. He informed him on the subject of his commission; that he had orders from his court to seize the _Sheik_, his cousin, and his _Vizir_: and then read to him the _firman_. The _firman_, in the first place, ordained the act of seizure; and then ordained, that not the smallest molestation should be given to the English, that every possible respect and attention should be shewn to them, and strongly denounced vengeance on any offender; and lastly ordained, that no inhabitant, either of the town or of the villages, should receive the least harm. In his own name, he assured the Assistant Resident, that he was determined to put the _firman_ in its full force; and turning to his followers and guards, cried out, “Woe be to that man who shall be found guilty of giving the smallest offence to any Englishman, or to any of his servants, or to any thing that belongs to him.” He added, indeed, that the present fate of the _Sheik_ was the punishment of his ungracious behaviour to the English;[18] and swore, that, for his own part, nothing was so strongly the object of his mind, as the good will of our nation. The _Khan_ further stated, that he had intended, in the proposed visit of the morning in conjunction with the _Sheik_, first to have read the _firman_ to the _Elchee_, (the Embassador), and then to have executed it on the _Sheik_; but the _Sheik_ had tempted him by an opportunity so resistless, that he could not pay the full compliment to the Envoy of delaying the seizure till the communication had been made.

MAHOMED NEBEE KHAN, who is known to the English as the Persian Embassador at _Calcutta_, had procured the succession to the Government of _Bushire_, at the price, it was said, of forty thousand _tomauns_[19].

At this moment the _Vizir_ HAJEE SULIMAN was seized on the point of embarkation. The _Khan_ had declared that he would not spare _Bushire_ unless the _Vizir_ was delivered to him. The people, therefore, of his own town intercepted his flight, and surrendered him to the _Khan_. But the cousin of the _Sheik_, whose fate was threatened in the same proscription, escaped. There, as in Turkey, and probably in all despotic countries, the guilt, or rather the disgrace, of an individual, entails equal punishment on all his family and adherents.